Basic Bralette Tutorial

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When dreaming up this little design, I had some specific requirements in mind: that it be a simple “base” pattern from which many variations could be made, as well as being easily customized for many sizes, and last but not least – comfortable! After a few experiments, the pattern for the Basic Bralette was born.

UpDaTe! 7/17/2019: This pattern is now also available in a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF format! Click here to read all about it πŸ™‚

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I went with in-the-round triangle style cups for both the way they look and the ease of adjusting their size, plus a band through which the cross-back ties thread so that there is no pressure being put on the neck as with traditional bikini-style strap ties.

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Cross back ties are totally my jam now – check out the recently released Plus Size Mehndi Halter for more proof! In addition, I added a bit of strappy flair along the inner cups, because TRENDY. Say hello to your next cute and comfy summer crochet project!

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Now, there’s a teeny bit of math involved, fair warning. However, if you are confused about gauge and measurements, I’m here to help – or just wing it, and use the old “hold it up against yourself periodically while you work” method. πŸ™‚

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By the way, that awesome macrame necklace I am wearing is from Selinofos Art on Etsy – you should check them out!

This design is also listed on Ravelry, so if you like it, throw a girl a favorite on the project page!

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Basic Bralette Tutorial Pattern

3.50 mm hook
#4 weight cotton yarn (although you can make it with any weight yarn / hook size combo as long as you know your gauge!) 1-3 skeins depending on size made
Stitch markers
Scissors & Tapestry Needle
Measuring Tape

Measurements
Band Size (measured around the rib cage just under the bust): For example, my measurement would be 32”
Measurement A : (Band size β€œ / 4) – 2” = Length of each side of completed triangle cup ( My example would be [32 / 4] – 2 = 6”). Therefore, my Measurement A = 6″
Measurement B: Β (Measurement A) / 2 = My Measurement B would be 3”

Note that the sample in the pictures doesn’t use the same measurements as my example math above.

If you have a curvier bust, good news! I have added a modification for this design – the Curvy Bralette Tutorial. ❀

The Basic Bralette can be modified in size to any size that you like, but because of the flatter nature of the cups it really works best for sizes Small – Medium (32A – 34B). The Curvier version uses a border to draw the cups in more, creating a deeper cup for larger busts and works better for C cups and some B cups depending on the shape. I haven’t made any cup sizes larger than D in this pattern, as I plan to do a Plus Bralette pattern as well πŸ™‚

Gauge:

You can have differing gauges for this project, as long as you know what your gauge is in order to achieve the right measurements.

My gauge with the given hook and yarn is:
9 sts & 4 rows = 2” in dc

To find your gauge, crochet a square of double crochet stitches about 15-20 sts long and about 6 rows tall.

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Use a measuring tape to find out how many dc sts per inch/es in your gauge swatch.

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Measure vertically to find out how many rows per inch/es in your gauge swatch. My swatch has 9 sts in every 2 inches (measured by 2 inches because we don’t want to have 4.5 sts per inch because it’s not a whole number) and 4 rows for every 2 inches, so my gauge is 9 sts and 4 rows = 2″ in dc.

Instructions:

Triangle Cups (Make 2)

Make Magic Ring to begin.

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Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), (3 dc into the ring, ch 2) 3 times. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 9 dc

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Rnd 2: Ch 2, 1 dc into the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 3 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) repeat within parentheses twice. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 21 dc

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Rnd 3: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 7 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 33 dc

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Rnd 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 6 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 11 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 45 dc

Continue working in pattern until the sides of your triangle each match yourΒ Measurement A. Remember that this piece will stretch, so you may want your sides to be just a little under this measurement to account for that.Β 

It’s also a good idea to grab the 3 corners of your triangle and stretch them out evenly as you are working, so you get a better idea of how your length is progressing!

I made this sample piece around 8”, and so wrote out the following rounds I used to get that measurement in my gauge – but you can work as many or as few rounds in pattern as you need.

Rnd 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 8 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 15 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 6 dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 57 dc

Rnd 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 10 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 19 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 8 dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 69 dc

After finishing the first triangle, cut yarn and tie off. Complete a second triangle, butΒ  leave yarn attached when finished.

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Arrange the two triangles (which we will now refer to as cups) with RS facing, your hook positioned on top, so that the two flat sides with the joins are facing β€œup”. Take a locking stitch marker and run it through each chain st on the corner where the two cups meet.

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These two ch sts will be worked together as one stitch, now referred to as the middle point. Now, count the number of dc stitches between where your hook is positioned to the middle point, counting neither the joined stitch nor the middle point stitch – I have 12 in the sample.

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Take a second marker, count out the same number of stitches on the opposite cup away from the middle point, then mark the next st (so you have a section between the middle point and the marked stitch equal to the section on the other side).

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From the point where your hook is positioned, you will work 1/3 the amount of stitches (between your hook and the middle point) in sc, 1/3 in hdc, 1/3 dc for the first section – in the example this is 4 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc. If 1/3rd of your number is not a whole number, round down and add the extra stitches into the dc total. So, if you have 14 stitches in this section, you’d do 4 sc, 4 hdc, 6 dc (4 dc + 2 extra = 6).

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Next, 1 dc into the middle stitch, working your stitch through both ch stitches at once. In the next section, work the same quantities of stitches, except mirrored – in the example this is 4 dc, 4 hdc, 4 sc. Sl st in the next stitch (with the marker). Cut yarn and tie off. Remove all markers.

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Band:

For the band, we will add the length of stitches equal to Measurement B on either side. The Measurement B for this sample is 4”, so since my gauge is 9 sts = 2”, I will need to add 18 stitches to either side of the cups.

Row 1: Ch length of stitches needed to equal Measurement B (18 here). Dc in the 2nd ch in the corner of the cup, RS facing. Dc in ea st across to the next ch st on opposite corner, ch number same number of stitches as beginning.

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Row 2: Ch 2, turn and work 1 dc in the 4th ch from the hook (first 3 ch sts count as first dc). 1 dc in ea st across.

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Row 3: Ch 3, turn (counts as first dc). 1 dc in ea st across.

Rpt Row 3 until the band is the width that you’d like, and totals an even number of rows. Β (I did 6 total rows of dc). Do not tie off.

The next part works around the entire top to create eyelets in the back and add the straps.Β 

Round 4:Β  Rotate the piece so that you are ready to work into the row ends of the band. Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch1). (Dc, ch 1) in the side of each dc at the row ends, across the side of the band. In the last row, work 1 dc into the very edge of the stitch, skip the chain 1.

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Rotate the piece,Β  beginning to work across the top of the band. Ch 1, hdc in the side of the dc of the eyelet row. 1 hdc in ea stitch across, stopping one st before the Row 1 dc at the bottom of the cups. Skip this stitch, the dc, and the chain space at the corner of the cup, 1 hdc in the next dc on the side of the cup (For larger cups or for tighter coverage, you may want to skip a few extra stitches to keep the cup edges tight – I skipped about 5 total stitches on mine). 1 hdc in ea dc toward the top of the cup. 1 hdc, 1 dc in the next chain space.

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Skipping one st before the corner, the chain stitch on the corner, and one stitch after.

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Skipping 2 sts before the corner, the chain stitch corner, and two sts after.

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Strap: Ch 200 – 300 (depending on bust size – each strap will go over the shoulder, cross the back, and then criss-cross back and forth. You may want to cross more or less, like a certain level of tightness, etc – so there is no solid rule about how many to chain here. My default is to chain more than I need, then undo part of the chain later once I’ve tried the top on and know how long I need the chain to actually be). Cut yarn and tie off.

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Rejoin yarn 6 chain stitches away from the top of the cup. Slip stitch in ea of the next 4 sts toward the top of the cup, stopping before the last ch st. Ch 1. 1 dc, 1 hdc in the chain space. 1 hdc in the next dc.

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Chain a number of stitches until you have just enough length to get the end of the chain to the middle of the two cups – typically equal to the amount of stitches you are about to skip (depending on gauge). Skip working the rest of the cup and sc in the stitch in the middle.

Note that the chain length pictured in the image directly below is too loose! I made it longer so that it would be more visible in the photograph. It should sit tightly along the edge of the cup once secured at the middle point, as pictured in the second image below.

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Repeat length of chain, skip side of next cup, 1 hdc in the dc right before the chain space. You will want your chains here to be fairly tight, to avoid floppy straps. Now is a good time to practice the “holding it up to yourself as you work” method, since each bust is different.

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1 hdc in the next ch space, 1 dc in the same space. Work a second chain strap equal in length to the first. Cut yarn, tie off, and rejoin 6 sts away from the last dc. Slip stitch in the next 4 sts, ch 1, 1 dc in the same ch space, 1 hdc in the same space.

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1 hdc in ea dc down the side of the cup. Sk next chain corner, dc, and first st at the top of the band (or as many as you skipped on the opposite side). 1 hdc in ea st across to the corner.

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Rotate piece, ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch-1). (Dc, ch 1) in ea dc at the ends of the rows of the band. In the last st, 1 dc at the very edge, sk chain.

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Rotate piece to begin working across the bottom of the band again. Ch 1, 1 hdc in the side of the last dc worked for eyelet row. 1 hdc in ea st across the bottom of the band, stopping at the ch-3 that counts as the first dc for the eyelet row. 1 sc in the next st, sl st in the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

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Weave in all ends, except for the ends of the chain straps.

Now, put on the top and cross the chain straps at the back as shown. You can criss-cross string the straps through all the eyelets, or just some of them – though the more criss-crossing you do, the harder it is to adjust the straps to the right tightness of fit by yourself. So, I normally only cross them a couple times (see the images of the red bralette below)Β  πŸ™‚Β  Whichever way you decide, you can then see how much strap length you actually need.

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Pick out the tie-off you made, and rip out the extra chain stitches until your straps are the length that you need. Tie off again and cut off the extra yarn.

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I used my extra yarn to make little tassels, which is both cute and helps hide the yarn tail at the end of the chain so that I don’t have to weave it in πŸ™‚ Voila! Your Basic Bralette is born.

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I plan on doing some variations on this design in the future! Armed with a ton of colorful cotton yarn, this quick and easy project should be fun to mess around with some more – and I’ll try to share what I come up with of course ❀

-MF

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41 thoughts on “Basic Bralette Tutorial

  1. Love! I have some red cotton in my stash that’s been waiting for a strappy summer top project almost exactly like this in my brain. Now I don’t need to do the hard work of figuring it out πŸ™‚

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  2. Top notch. I like that it has simple, clean lines but is obviously well thought out. Five stars for not having it tie behind the neck! Going to be making this for festival usage.

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  3. Thank you for such an easy pretty top. I just finished one now in exactly the same way as yours using pink sparkle dk yarn from my stash πŸ™‚

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  4. Pingback: PBT: Triangles | Morale Fiber

    • Hi Allie! It is very similar to how you loop yarn for a fringe. I just take a several lengths of yarn held together, and double them over into a loop. Pull the loop partially through the end of the tie, then grab the loose ends of the bundle and pull them through the loop tightly.

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  5. Hey! Just stumbled on your blog here, love it and love this top! Took me a few hours (this is the first time I crocheted something other than a blanket) but I finished it and all and all it looks fabulous! Next time I’ll have to actually measure for a better fit! Will make this again! Great look! Thank you.

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  6. If I make a few of these, do I have permission to sell them if I credit the pattern back to you and this website? Super cute pattern by the way!

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  7. Pingback: What I’m working on: a super cute bralette! – Maddy Crochets

  8. Thank you for the lovely pattern! It’s been easy to follow, thanks also to the helping pictures. However, right now I’m a bit stuck. I’m having a hard time figuring out the second row of the band. After crocheting the chain stitches to the corner of the other cup (+the 2 extra required), I tried to double crochet but couldn’t continue after the chain ended.

    Somehow my dc:s of the chain are on the opposite side of the band. If I continued double crocheting, I’d have the stitches on the side of the cup, not as the band. At what point should I somehow turn to continue naturally after the chain? Ive tried that part multiple times but just can’t figure it out! Thank you for your answer 🌻

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    • Hi there! So, to start the band at Row 1 you cut your yarn and tie it off from working the cups, with the side that now connects the two cups “up” or ready to be worked (the side you just made using the mirrored lengths of stitches). Starting a whole new chain, chain the length you need for the sides. Then continue by working dc’s in the stitches across the side you are working. Then, chain a length with the same number of stitches as your starting chain. This ends Row 1. To Start Row 2, chain two extra chain stitches and turn, then work dc stitches down the chain, over the dc’s from row 1, and into the chain on the other side of Row 1.
      I hope that helps! πŸ™‚

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      • Thanks for the quick reply!
        I’m still a bit confused. I’ve finished row 1 successfully but the problem comes after that. I added the 2 extra chain stitches, turned and worked dc stitches down the chain but can’t continue from there. The dc stitches I’ve just crocheted, are on the wrong (left) side of the chain. I don’t know how to have the dc stitches on the right side of the chain so that the next stitches after the chain would be the ones from row 1, not the side of the cup. Thank you for your help!

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      • Okay, I think I see what you mean! To position your hook so that you can crochet your Dc’s into the right side of the bralette, you will be working on the bottom of the chain you made, not the top. A chain stitch has two loops on top (the loops you would normally work into) and one small bump of a loop on the bottom. Instead of working back down the chain into the top two loops on one side, you’ll be working your stitches into the bump or bottom loop of the chain.

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  9. So I am trying to make this for someone and I was curious how would you go about making the triangle cups the right size for their chest if you cannot try it on? Like if they said I’m a size D how would you translate that into how big to make the cups? I know the band part helps with that but what if they have a smaller band and bigger chest? Thanks so much

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    • Hi Avery! At that point you’d also need a measurement from them of the fullest part of the bust, then use that measurement to guide how big you make your triangles – you’d have to aim for a little less than half the the measurement when the two triangles are lined up side by side, measured across the middle of the triangles (where they would be covering the peak of the bust.) However, this pattern isn’t especially great for bigger busts if you don’t add any extra rows to the top of the bralette. I am very close to finishing a post about how to modify this design for bigger busts, so you should keep an eye out for that as I think it will be very useful to you as you make this for your friend! ❀

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  10. Pingback: Curvy Bralette Tutorial | Morale Fiber

  11. I love this pattern! Thank you for sharing it!!!
    I’M STUCK! PLEASE help me! I had read through the whole pattern before starting and thought I completely understood everything. I don’t understand how to attach the straps. You said start 6ch before the top of the cup and sl st the strap there? I want to make sure I attach the strap correctly so I know its secure, but now I don’t understand the directions. How do I start sl st the strap 6ch before where it’s suppose to be?

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    • Hi Courtney! So for the strap, you will work to the point where it chains 200-300 – that’s the strap. Once you have chained the right length ,you will cut the yarn and reattach the yarn 6 stitches away from the cup on the beginning of the chain. That’s where you start so that you can continue the edging, without working all the way back down the chain πŸ™‚ Does that make more sense?

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  12. Hi, this is such a lovely pattern (and styled so beautifully). I am really keen to make it, but don’t know whether to make this one or your pattern for a curvier bust. Do you think you could possibly give some indication as to what kind of size you think this pattern would fit? I don’t want to make the wrong one!

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    • Hi Emmaline! That’s a great question. The Basic Bralette can be modified in size to any size that you like, but because of the flatter nature of the cups it really works best for sizes Small – Medium (32A – 34B). The Curvier version uses a border to draw the cups in more, creating a deeper cup for larger busts and works better for C cups and some B cups depending on the shape. I haven’t made any cup sizes larger than D in this pattern, as I plan to do a Plus Bralette pattern as well πŸ™‚

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  13. Pingback: Min fΓΆrsta klΓ€nning – Crochet from Γ…land

  14. Thank you so much for this easy to follow tutorial and super cute pattern! I’m a rookie at crocheting so took me longer to do as I didn’t know how to do all of the stitches, YouTube is a lifesaver! Made this in tart orange for my daughter who is heading to Hawaii in a few days and she LOVES it!

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  15. Pingback: Basic Bralette PDF and Pattern Sale | Morale Fiber

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