Forest Girl Beret Free Crochet Pattern

As I mentioned in a recent post, I’ve been geeking out about Mori Kei (“forest style”), one of many fascinating Japanese street styles. I mean… combining forest themed accessories, layered skirts, and crochet/knitwear? Plus crazy socks?? Sign me up.

 

And of course, my proclivity for putting horns on things fits right in. So when I saw this adorable antlered beret on Pinterest, I was inspired to create my own version. Paired with a Mori-inspired outfit of course.

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The hat pattern itself is a slight modification of the Sweetheart Beret, a free pattern I made two years ago. The antlers are new, done more simply than the bigger antlers I make for my Deer Hat pattern.  Hope you like this new little project, and be sure to share on Ravelry if you do!

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Forest Girl Beret

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Materials:
5.00 mm hook, 3.50 mm hook
1 skein Buttercream Mohair Metallic (#5 Bulky, 3.5 oz, 188 yds)
30-40 yds brown DK weight yarn for antlers (Worsted weight is fine, too)
Tapestry needle
Size 5 knitting DPNs (optional)
Gauge: 7 sts & 5 rows = 2” in hdc

Notes:

The Ch 2 at the beginning of each round DOES NOT COUNT as the first st of the round.

Instructions:

To begin, make a 6 row I-Cord using either the knit technique or the crochet I-cord technique (Planet June has an excellent tutorial on the crochet version)

On the sixth row, transfer all three loops (if knitting) onto your 5.00 mm crochet hook.

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Grab the loop closest to your hook end and draw it through the other two loops on the hook, leaving you with one loop on the hook.

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Rnd 1 : Ch 3. Join with a slip stitch to the first chain to form a ring. This gives you a ring attached to the base of the I-cord. With the I-cord at the back, Ch 2 and work 8 hdc into the ring, then join with a slip stitch to the first hdc, (remember this is NOT the beginning ch-2). You will have a circle of 8 hdc stitches with the I-cord off center from the beginning ring on the wrong side of your stitching, which is where it will stay until we center it later.

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I-cord with ch-3 ring made

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8 hdc into the ring

Rnd 2: Ch 2. 2 hdc into the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. – 16 sts

Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc into the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next st, 2 hdc into the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st – 24 sts.

Rnd 4: Ch 2, 1 hdc in the same st and 1 hdc in the next st. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc into ea of the next 2 sts, 2 hdc into the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st – 32 sts

Rnd 5: Ch 2, hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 2 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc into ea of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc into the next st.) 7 times. Join with a sl st – 40 sts.

Rnd 6: Ch 2, hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 3 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc into the next st.) 7 times. Join with a sl st – 48 sts.

Rnd 7: Ch 2, hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 5 sts, 2 hdc into the next st.) 7 times. Join with a sl st – 56 sts.

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At this point, my circular pattern is starting to form telltale points at the increases. To keep the work nice and rounded, the next round offsets the increases – although the total number of increases remains the same.

Rnd 8: Ch 2, hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 2 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts, 2 hdc into the next st.) 7 times. Hdc in ea of the next 3 sts. Join with a sl st – 64 sts.

 

Rnd 9: Ch 2, hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 3 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st.) 7 times.  Hdc in ea of the next 3 sts. Join with a sl st – 72 sts.

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A few stitches before the end of Rnd 9

Rnd 10: Ch 2, hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st.) 7 times. Hdc in ea of the next 3 sts. Join with a sl st – 80 sts.

In the next round, we will offset the increases again.

Rnd 11: Ch 2, hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st.) 7 times. Join with a sl st – 88 sts.

Rnd 12: Ch 2, hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 9 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 hdc in the next st.) 7 times. Join with a sl st – 96 sts.

Rnds 13-16: Ch 2, hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 95 sts. Join with a sl st – 96 sts.

Rnd 17: Ch 2, hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 9 sts. Hdc2tog over the next 2 sts. (1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts.) – 88 sts.

Rnd 18-20: Ch 2, 1 hdc in the same st. Hdc in ea of the next 87 sts. – 88 sts

Rnd 21: Ch 2, 1 hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 3 sts. Hdc2tog over the next 2 sts. (1 hdc in ea of the next 3 sts, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts. 1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts) 7 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 3 sts, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts.

Rnd 22: Ch 2, 1 hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 6 sts. Hdc2tog over the next 2 sts. (1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts) around – 64 sts

The next round begins with a turn so that we are working with the WS facing. The rest of the hat will be worked from this side.

Rnd 23: Ch 1, turn. Sc in the same st and in ea of the next 71 sts. Join with a sl st – 72 sts.

Rnds 24 – 25: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in ea of the next 71 sts. Join with a sl st – 72 sts.

Rnd 26: Sl st loosely in the next st and in ea of the remaining 71 sts. Try on the hat to test for size. If the slip stitching makes your brim too tight, skip this round. Cut yarn and tie off.

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This hat uses the wrong side of the piece as the outside surface, so make sure that the wrong side is facing out before weaving in all your ends!

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Thread your yarn needle with the yarn end from the i-cord.

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Slip the needle end down through the i-cord and through the opposite side of the beginning ring to center the cord over the middle of the beginning ring. Straighten out your yarn tension so that the i-cord can stretch out fully and look natural. Weave in the rest of the yarn end, and all other yarn ends.

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Antlers:

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Using 3.50 hook and DK weight yarn

Make 2 of each tine. Worked continuously in the round. Use a stitch marker to keep track of rounds. Gauge is amigurumi-style, aka as tight as possible 😉

Main Tine:

Rnd 1: Make Magic Ring. 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly.

Rnd 2: 1 sc in ea sc around. – 6 sts

Rnd 3: *1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc. Rpt from * around. – 9 sts

Rnds 4-13: 1 sc in ea st around. – 9 sts

Rnd 14: *1 sc in ea of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc. Rpt from  * around. – 12 sts

Sl st in the next 2-3 sts, cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

2nd Tine

Rnd 1: Make Magic Ring. 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly.

Rnd 2: 1 sc in ea sc around. – 6 sts

Rnd 3: *1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc. Rpt from * around. – 9 sts

Rnds 4-8: 1 sc in ea st around. – 9 sts

Sl st in the next 2-3 sts. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Assembly:

Thread the long tail of the 2nd tine onto a tapestry needle and sew around the base onto the main tine. Weave in the end. Rpt for other antler.

Thread the long tail of the main tine onto a tapestry needle and position your antlers on the beret. I tried to place mine roughly equally spaced around the 6th-7th round of the beret. I liked this for a subtle look, where the antlers can mostly be seen from the back. But, it would be fun to position them further forward too!

If your stitching isn’t tight enough to keep the antlers stiff on their own, you can stuff a tiny bit of fiberfill in the base of the main tine to help stabilize things.

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Sew around the base of the antler, attaching it to the beret. Weave in any remaining ends.

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Quick AND cute, I’ll definitely be making a few more of these for springtime! I also unearthed the toadstool beret I had from the making of the original  tam pattern and got some new photos. I used a tapestry needle threaded with fluffy white bulky weight yarn to add the characteristic speckles by embroidering french knots.

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I particularly enjoy the background view of my freaky forest friends staring me down 😀

-MF

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Basic Armwarmers Tutorial

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Armwarmers are an awesome crochet project. Quick, fun, and not finicky – these babies have been a go-to for me whenever I have a spare skein of soft yarn that needs a purpose. This pattern/tutorial/guide is customizeable, with enough structure to use as a straightforward pattern for beginners, or for more experienced crocheters to use as a base for inspiration.

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This tutorial features a guide for figuring gauge & sizing, base pattern for two different gauge sizes, and some ideas for creative extras. My favorite features of the gloves themselves are the continuous round construction that eliminates the join seam and the unique thumb opening, which creates a more contoured fit at the base of the thumb.

So without further introduction…

Basic Armwarmers Tutorial

Materials:
300-400 yds #4 or #5 weight yarn
5.00 mm hook
Scissors, tapestry needle
2 Stitch Markers

Gauge:
For bulky yarns, 3 sts & 2 rows = 1″ in hdc
For worsted yarns, 7 sts & 5 rows = 2″ in hdc

Figuring Gauge:

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For this project you’ll need to make a gauge swatch. This is just a square of fabric worked, for this project, in rows of half double crochet. Generally more stitches per square will give you a better reading of your gauge, but I have cheated a bit here and made relatively small swatches. The worsted weight swatches (purple, top left and rainbow, bottom) both measure 7 sts & 5 rows = 2″.

You can find out your gauge by creating a swatch 10-20 stitches in length, with enough rows to make a fat rectangle or a square. Then, take a measuring device and measure across a row of stitches in the middle of the swatch.

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As you can see, for this gauge measuring to ONE inch means I’d have a fraction of a stitch included in my gauge (since one inch covers about 3 and a half stitches). Since that makes for messy math, measure for 2″ instead, which gives 7 sts = 2″.

Next, measure how many rows will equal your 2″ in height.

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So for this yarn, my gauge is 7 sts and 5 rows = 2″.  My bulky weight yarn gauge (the yellow) is more even, with 3 sts and 2 rows equalling an inch. You can use your gauge to create a custom sized pair of armwarmers, or you can change hooks or yarn weights to match one of the two gauges listed here and use the pre-written patterns for each gauge.

Sizing:

To figure your own custom size, take a tape measure and get the circumference of your hand measured across the base of your thumb with your hand relaxed (not spread or closed tightly). For me, this is about 8-9″. This is how wide the armwarmer will be. This measurement will also be enough to get the warmer snug on my mid-forearm, which also measures about 8-9″.

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Since I like my armwarmers snug, we’ll shoot for an 8″ circumference (don’t forget they will stretch some also). In the bulky yarn gauge, 3 stitches = 1″ in width, so 8 (inches) x 3 (sts) = 24 sts. Our armwarmer pattern for bulky yarn will use a base of 24 sts.

In worsted weight gauge, I had 7 sts = 2″, so since 2″ goes into 8″ 4 times, I use the formula 7 (sts) x 4 (sets of 2 inches) = 28 sts. Our armwarmer pattern for worsted weight will use a base of 28 sts.

The photos for the tutorial appear for the worsted weight pattern, with the bulky weight pattern instructions appearing separately below 🙂 But you can use the photo reference for both!

Basic Armwarmers: Worsted Weight

Notes: Worked continuously in the round. Place marker in the first stitch of every round.

Rnd 1: Ch 28. Join in a ring by working a sc into the first st of the chain.

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Rnd 2: Hdc in the next st. Place marker in this first stitch. Hdc in ea of the next 27 sts.

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Rnds 3 – 21: Hdc in ea hdc around.

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Rnd 22: Hdc in the first st. Place a 2nd marker in the stitch half way around the row from the first stitch of the round (the 14th st). This is where you will create the hole for the thumb over the next 2 rounds. Hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 3 dc in the marked stitch. Move the 2nd marker to the 2nd dc in this st. Hdc in ea of the next 14 sts.

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Rnd 23: Hdc in ea of the next 13 sts. Dc in the next st. Sk next 3 sts, dc in the next st. Hdc in ea st around.

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Ta-Da! Thumbhole. NOW, you can add a few more rounds of hdc, but since I will be adding post stitch ribbing to the end, I am not going to do that. Whenever you have reached the length you like (saving room for embellishment if you want to), end your final round and then use:

1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the next 2 sts.  Cut yarn and tie off.

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This accomplishes a height change so your edge will be even. To add trim like contrasting sc, scallops, or post stitch rib, rejoin your yarn and work in regular, non-continuous rounds.

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Post Stitch Rnd 1: Join yarn in any stitch, ch 2 (does not count as first st). Hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st in the first hdc of the round.
Post Stitch Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count), Fphdc in the same st. Bphdc in the next st. *Fphdc in the next st, bphdc in the next st. Rpt from * around. Join with a sl st in the first st of the round.

Rpt Rnd 2 again, or until you have the length you want. Cut yarn and tie off.

For more info on how to work post stitches, see my tutorial here! For the purple armwarmers below, I added a round of scallops and some contrasting embroidery. Okay, my embroidery needs a little work 😛

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Basic Armwarmers: Bulky Weight

Notes: Worked continuously in the round. Place marker in the first stitch of every round.

Rnd 1: Ch 24. Join in a ring by working a sc into the first st of the chain.

Rnd 2: Hdc in the next st. Place marker in the first st. Hdc in ea of the next 23 sts.

Rnds 3-16: Hdc in ea hdc around.

Rnd 17: Place a 2nd st marker in the 12th stitch of the round. Hdc in ea stitch until you reach the marker, then 3 dc in the marked stitch. Transfer 2nd marker to the 2nd dc of this stitch. Hdc in the next 12 sts.

Rnd 18: Hdc in ea of the next 10 sts. Dc in the next st. Sk next 3 sts. Dc in the next st. Hdc in ea of the next 12 sts.

Rnds 19 – 21 (or until you have the length you want): Hdc in ea st around.

To end, finish your last round then 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

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I added some spiffy autumn trees to the mustard yellow gloves!

I hope this little tutorial has inspired you to use up some orphan skeins (or go out and buy new ones… hey, I ain’t gonna judge).

-MF

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Krampus Hat Free Pattern

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There’s a lot of pretty cool stuff in my hometown of Bloomington, Indiana, but one of the most outstanding in my opinion is the annual Krampus Night put on by the awesome people at the Krampus Legend and Arts Workshop (K.L.A.W). A better explanation of Krampus Night and American versions of this traditional European event can be found in this Dangerous Minds article (in which it says that Bloomington’s parade is the best. I have to agree obviously).

You just can’t beat  fire spinning, giant hairy monsters threatening children with sticks and neon hooping angels handing out candy. Here’s a video from Krampus Night 2014 with me at 6:08 attempting to escape retribution. Also I am wearing my Deer Hat!

Anyway, that’s how my enthusiasm for Krampus was born. Who wouldn’t love a ferocious rampaging Christmas demon?  So this year, as I was contemplating how to refurbish an old crochet pattern of mine, I got the idea to turn it into a Krampus Hat. And since I don’t want the Krampus to think that I am ungenerous, I am sharing it for free here with you!

I am also making it available in PDF form for 5.50 in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Pattern Store.

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That’s right.

As far as insane things that I’ve crocheted go, it may well be a personal best. Also I got to look bonkers in the photos. Bonus!

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This twisty-horned, shaggy eared monstrosity could also be a ram, a yeti, a Wild Thing, or any number of raucous beasts. Hope you enjoy!

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Krampus Hat Crochet Pattern

Materials:
4.50 mm hook, 3.75 mm hook, 5.00 mm hook

Color A: 710 yds #4 worsted weight acrylic (I used I Love This Yarn! – 2 skeins, in “Linen”)
Color B: 150 yds #4 worsted weight acrylic (I used I Love This Yarn! in “Toasted Almond”)
Color C:  <100 yds #3 DK weight acrylic or wool blend (I used some spare Drops Lima I had laying around. You could easily sub any DK weight or a light #4 weight in here)

Polyester fiberfill
Scissors, Tapestry Needle
Locking stitch markers (highly recommended – other kinds of markers will work but I have found non-locking markers tend to get knocked off during the creation of this pattern)
Head form (useful but not absolutely necessary)

Gauge: 2″ in diameter after Rnd 7 (in pattern) for the main hat.

Techniques used: Magic Ring, Single crochet (sc), Crochet chain (ch), Slip stitch (sl st), Front loop only (FLO), Back loop only (BLO), Single crochet decrease (sc2tog), half-double crochet (hdc)

Notes:
The circular pattern alternates rounds worked in the front and back loops of the previous round. I highly recommend using a locking marker on the back loop of the first stitch of each sc round (odd numbered rounds) so you know for sure where to start and finish – with all of those loops it can get confusing and the markers always save the day.

To Begin, make magic ring with Color A and a 4.50 mm hook.

Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring, join round with a sl st in the front loop of the first stitch. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 6 sts

Rnd 2: Working in the FLO of Rnd 1 (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt  5 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 6 ch loops

Rnd 3: 2 sc into each of the back loops only (BLO)  of the sc stitches from Rnd 1.  Join with a sl st in the FLO. – 12 sts

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The back of the piece after Rnd 6. See that non-locking marker? That fell off about twenty times.

Rnd 4: Working in the FLO of Rnd 3, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt  11 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join – 12 ch loops

Rnd 5: In BLO of Rnd 3, (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in the next st. ) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 18 sts

Rnd 6: Working in the FLO of Rnd 5, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt  17 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 18 ch loops

Rnd 7: In BLO of Rnd 5, (1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round – 24 sts

Rnd 8: Working in the FLO of Rnd 7, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 23 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 24 ch loops

Rnd 9: In BLO of Rnd 7, (1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 30 sts

Rnd 10:  Working in FLO of Rnd 9, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 29 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 30 ch loops

Rnd 11: In BLO of Rnd 9, (1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 36 sts

Rnd 12: Working in FLO of Rnd 11, sc in the same stitch as sl st join. (Ch 6, sl st in the same stitch. *Sc in the next stitch.)  Rpt  35 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 36 ch loops

Rnd 13: In BLO of Rnd 11, (1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 42 sts

Rnd 14: Working in FLO of Rnd 13,  (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 41 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 42 ch loops

Rnd 15: In BLO of Rnd 13, (1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 48 sts

Rnd 16: Working in FLO of Rnd 15, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 47 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 48 ch loops

Rnd 17: In BLO of Rnd 15, (1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 54 sts

Rnd 18: Working in FLO of Rnd 17, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 53 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 54 ch loops

Rnd 19: In BLO of Rnd 17, 1 sc in each sc around. Join with a sl st in the FL of first st in the rnd. – 54 sts

Rnd 20: Working in FLO of Rnd 19, (Ch 7, sl st in the same st. *Sl st in the next st.) Rpt 53 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 54 ch lps

Rnd 21: In BLO of Rnd 19, (1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 60 sts

Rnd 22: Working in FLO of Rnd 21, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 59 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 60 ch loops

Rnd 23: In BLO of Rnd 21, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 60 sts

Rnd 24: Working in FLO of Rnd 23, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 59 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 60 ch loops

Rnd 25: Working in BLO of Rnd 23, (1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FL of the first st of the rnd. – 66 sts

Rnd 26: Working in the FLO of Rnd 25, (Ch 7, sl st in the same st. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 65 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 66 ch loops

Rnd 27: In BL of previous rnd, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 66 sts

Rnd 28: Working in FLO of previous rnd, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 65 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 66 ch loops

Rnds 29-42: Rpt Rnds 27-28 7 more times.

Rnd 43: In BL of previous rnd, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 66 sts

Rnd 44: Working in FLO of previous rnd, (Ch 9, sl st in the same st. *Sl st in the next st.) Rpt 65 more times, ending alst rpt at *. Do not join.

Rnds 45 – 52: Rpt Rnds 43-44 4 more times.

Cut yarn and tie off.

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Earflaps (Make 2)

Get four locking stitch markers. Place one in the BL of the first stitch of the previous round. Place second marker 9 stitches from the first (counting in same direction as you would work the round). Including stitches with markers, this makes a 10-stitch section. Starting with the first stitch after the 2nd marker, count 19 stitches in the same direction you would work the round. Place the third marker in the back loop of the 19 stitch. Place 4th marker 9 stitches from the third.

This leaves you with two marked off sections of 10 stitches (where you will work the earflaps) with an 18-stitch gap on one side (the back of the hat) and a 28-stitch gap on the other side (the front of the hat).  You can try on the hat now to see where those sections fall and adjust if necessary – as long as you have two sections of 10 stitches you can place them where you like.

Earflaps are worked in rows, turning after each row. Every row is worked in the back loop only.

Row 1: RS facing, join with a sc to the marked st at the beginning of one marked off 10-st section. 1 sc into the BLO of ea of next 9 sts. Ch 11, turn.

Row 2: Working in the BLO, sl st in the same st. (Sl st in the next st, ch 11, sl st in the same st) 9 more times. Ch 1, turn – 10 ch loops

Row 3: In the BLO, sc in ea of the next 10 sts. Ch 11, turn.

Row 4: Rpt Row 2.

Row 5: Rpt Row 3.

Row 6: Rpt Row 2.

Row 7: To begin this row, work a sc decrease over the BL of the first 2 stitches. Sc in ea of the next 6 sts. Work a sc decrease over the next 2 stitches. Ch 11, turn. – 8 sts.

Row 8: Sl st in the same st. (Sl st in the next st, ch 11, sl st in the same st) 7 times. Ch 1, turn. 8 ch loops.

Row 9: Sc in ea of the next 8 sts. Ch 11, turn. – 8 sts

Row 10: Rpt Row 8.

Row 11: To begin this row, work a sc decrease over the BL of the first 2 sts. Sc in ea of the next 4 sts. Work a sc decrease over the next 2 sts. Ch 11, turn. – 6 sts

Row 12: Sl st in the same st. (Sl st in the next st, ch 11, sl st in the same st) 5 times. Ch 1, turn. – 6 ch loops

Row 13: Work a sc decrease over the next 2 sts. Sc in ea of next 2 sts. 1 sc dec over the next 2 sts. Ch 11, turn.

Row 14: Sl st in the same st. (Sl st in the next st, ch 11, sl st in the same st) 3 times. Ch 1, turn. – 4 ch loops

Row 15: (Work a sc dec over the next 2 sts) twice. If this is your first earflap, cut yarn and tie off. If this is your second earflap, do not cut or tie off.

Brim:

The brim works two rows of sc in each stitch around the edge of the hat, including the earflaps.

Row 1: Work 1 sc in the side of ea row down the earflap toward the main part of the hat. Continue to work 1 sc in the back loops of the stitches and 1 sc in between ea loop on the sides of the earflaps all the way around the hat.

Row 2: Sc in ea sc.

Horns (Make 2)

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Work in BLO unless otherwise specified. Work continuously in the round, using a st marker to track rounds. Stuff gradually with poly fiberfill as you go – be careful not to overstuff.

Using color B and 3.75 mm hook, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring. – 6 sts

Rnd 2: 1 hdc in ea of the next 3 sc, 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sc. – 6 sts

Rnd 3: Rpt Rnd 2.

Rnd 4: Rpt Rnd 2.

Rnd 5: (1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 9 sts

Rnd 6: 1 hdc in ea of the next 5 sts, 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. – 9 sts

Rnd 7: 1 hdc in ea of the next 5 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the next 4 sts. – 9 sts

Rnd 8: Rpt Rnd 7

Rnd 9: (1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 12 sts

Rnd 10: 1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 6 sts. – 12 sts

Rnd 11: Rpt Rnd 10

Rnd 12: 1 sc in ea st around. – 12 sts

Rnd 13: (1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 15 sts

Rnd 14: 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the next 6 sts. – 15 sts

Rnd 15: Rpt Rnd 14

Rnd 16: 1 sc in ea st around. – 15 sts

Rnd 17: (1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 18 sts

Rnd 18: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 12 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 6 sts. – 18 sts

Rnd 19: Rpt Rnd 18

Rnd 20: (1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 21 sts

Rnd 21: 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the next 8 sts. – 21 sts

Rnd 22: Rpt Rnd 21

Rnd 23: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 6 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 24 sts

Rnd 24: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 16 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 8 sts. – 24 sts

Rnd 25: Rpt Rnd 24

Rnd 26: (1 sc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 27 sts

Rnd 27: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 18 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 9 sts. – 27 sts

Rnd 28: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 8 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 30 sts

Rnd 29: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 20 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 10 sts. – 30 sts

Rnd 30: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 9 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 33 sts

Rnd 31: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 22 sts, 1 stl st in ea of the nxt 11 sts. – 33 sts

Rnd 32: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 10 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 36 sts

Rnd 33: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 24 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 12 sts. – 36 sts

Rnd 34: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 11 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 39 sts

Rnd 35: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 26 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 13 sts. – 39 sts

Rnd 36: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 12 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 42 sts

Rnd 37:  1 hdc in ea of the nxt 28 sts, 1 sc in ea of the nxt 14 sts. – 42 sts

Rnd 38: Working in both of the top loops, 1 Sl st in each st around. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Embellishing the Horn

In a contrasting yarn and the 3.75 hk, attach yarn to the first FL from Rnd 1 of the tip of the horn. *Sl st in the FL of the next st. Rpt from * in a continuous spiral all the way down the horn to the end of Rnd 36. Cut yarn and tie off.

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Ears (Make 2):

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The ears are worked in continuous rounds and then flattened to form a sturdy, double layered shape.

With Color A and a 5.00 mm hook, make magic ring.

Rnd 1:  3 sc into the ring. Tighten. – 3 sts

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around – 6 stitches

Rnd 3: 1 sc in ea sc around – 6 stitches

Rnd 4: 2 sc in ea sc around – 12 stitches

Rnd 5 -6: 1 sc in ea sc around – 12 stitches

 

Rnd 7: (1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around – 18 stitches

Rnd 8: 1 sc in each sc around – 18 stitches

Rnd 9: (1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) – 24 stitches

 

Rnds 10 – 14: 1 sc in each sc around – 24 stitches

Rnd 15: (1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, sc2tog over the next 2 stitches) – 18 stitches

Rnd 16 -22: 1 sc in each sc around – 18 stitches.

Rnd 23: Sl stitch around. Fasten off, leaving a long tail attached for sewing.

Using a length of Color C and a tapestry needle, embellish the ear by embroidering on a spiral or other fun ear-like shapes.

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Earflap braids:

Cut a bundle of 15 32”-long strands in Color A. Fold the bundle to form a loop at one end and draw it through the bottom of the earflap. Tuck loose ends through the loop and tighten. Separate into 3 bundles of 10 strands and braid, then tie off. Repeat for the other side.

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Assembly

Gather all of your pieces and weave all ends except those left long to sew on the piece. Try on the hat and hold up the pieces to see how you’d like to position your horns and ears – the horns are not mirrored pieces so you won’t get them exactly symmetrical, but its fun to play around and see what you like. Mark out the area you will be attaching the pieces with safety pins or stitch markers if you like.

Then find something to put your hat on while you sew. Head forms are handy, or you can hunt around for something else that vaguely fits. You can even use your bent knee if you’re limber enough. I still haven’t replaced my battered old styrofoam head so today we’re using a medicine ball.

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I used to sew the horns directly onto the hat, but I have found that since the chain loops are so dense, you can really just sew them onto the loops and it works just as well. Make sure before you close the seam that the bottom of the horns are properly stuffed – I usually cram in a glob of fiberfill just before closing it up for good measure.

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I like the ears just beneath the horns – mine are floppy as they are sewn directly onto the loops, but you can get them sturdier by sewing onto the hat base instead.

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Finally, for extra scruffiness, cut a big bundle of 1/2 yard strands of Color A. Loop them over in and fringe bundles of 4-5 through some of the loops on the lower part of the hat around the earflaps.  Chop and style as you like – I used whatever bit of Color A I had left over and added small decorative braids. You could really go nuts here (since the entire hat is covered in loops) and make an extremely shaggy thing. I hope someone does, and shows me a picture 😉

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And, there you have it – Krampus Hat!  I hope you like, and of course if you have any questions I am here to help. Be good or the Krampus will get you!

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Nooo not sunlight… oh wait, that’s vampires.

-MF

KrampusCover4

Glow-in-the-Dark Mushroom Free Pattern

Welcome to day two of the Halloween Special! Day one featured a handspun pumpkin (handspunpkin?) which was more of a description than an actual tutorial, but today you’ll never guess what I’ve got here.

It’s glow-in-the-dark. It’s a mushroom. It’s a FREE PATTERN!

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This spooky fungus is cute and quick and has a little secret pouch inside the hollow stem, covered by the moveable cap that is strung on the chain loop band.

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The glow-in-the-dark yarn I use here is awesome, from a company called Gert’s Glow House. They don’t always have it in stock though, so you might have to range afar to find it. Since gauge isn’t critical on this project, you can also easily substitute other glow or neon yarns if you can’t get that exact type.

FUN FACT: There is a species of mushroom called the Jack-o’-Lantern Mushroom (Omphalotus olearius) that really does glow in the dark! That’s what I named these little pockets after 🙂

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Jack-o’-Lantern Mushroom Pouch

Materials:
3.75 mm hook
Gert’s Glow House Glow-in-the-Dark Yarn (50 g, 4-ply fingering weight) – 1 skein
Tapestry needle & scissors
Stitch Marker

Gauge is not critical

Notes:
Pattern uses 2 strands of yarn held together, so you will need to either split your skein in half, work from both ends, or use 2 skeins

Rounds are worked continuously without joining, so mark the first stitch of each round with a marker to keep track.

Helpful Tutorials: 
Magic Ring, Back Loop Only

Stem:

To begin, take 2 strands and make a Magic Ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each of the next 6 sc. – 12 sts
Rnd 3: Working in the back loop only, 1 sc in ea of the next 12 sts. – 12 sts
Rnds 4 -13: Work in both loops, 1 sc in ea of the next 12 sts. – 12 sts

You can add extra rounds here if you want a longer stem!

Rnd 14: Sl st in the next 2 sts. Ch 100 and join with a sl st on the opposite side of the round. Sl st in the next 2 sts to secure. Cut yarn and tie off.

Cap:

To begin, make Magic Ring
Rnd 1: 10 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed, but not tightly – there should be a circle left open big enough to get your hook through later. -10 sts
Rnd 2: *1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st.  Repeat from * around. – 15 sts
Rnds 3-4: 1 sc in ea of the next 15 sts. – 15 sts
Rnd 5: *1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Rpt from * around. – 20 sts
Rnds 6-7: 1 sc in ea of the next 20 sts. – 20 sts
Rnd 8: Sl st in ea st around. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Insert hook from the top of the cap to the underside and catch the 100-st long chain you made for the stem. Pull the chain through so that the cap fits over the top of the stem.

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Tighten the hole at the top of the cap to the tension you like (remember you still want the cap to be able to move up and down the chain).

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Weave in all ends.

To get a really good glow going, leave your new Jack-o’-lantern mushroom on the windowsill to charge in the sunlight (or moonlight).

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The glowing in this picture is enhanced by my camera exposure setting, but still, they’re pretty dang glowy.

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These are so handy for carrying pocket money, chapstick, pretty rocks, etc… or just for looking cuter than heck.

-MF

Where did September go?

Hmmm… I seem to be missing almost a whole month! Yikes. But that means we’re that much closer to October, which is my favorite (but don’t tell September). Luckily I have been holding out on some projects from earlier in the semester when I wasn’t as busy, so that I’d at least have something to post 😛

First though, how about a li’l sale? I’ve got $1 off my Boho Fringe Poncho pattern through Ravelry until the end of the month with the coupon code “CHUNKY”! This pattern uses 800-900 yards of Super Bulky yarn and you get a nice fat statement piece at the end – looks awesome paired with ripped jeans, flannel shirts, your favorite fall boots, or layered over heavier winter coats.

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Next up is a project that I worked on all summer that is based off of my Shaman Coat Tunisian crochet pattern. Though it mostly turned out the way that I envisioned, I had to do some inventive wrangling to get it there – such as adding the slip stitch “boning” up the back and then threading in corset style ties.

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I wanted to take the basic Shaman coat and create a fuller A-line silhouette by leaving spaces between the rows so that I could go back in and create diamond shaped panels using Tunisian decreases to add OOMPH. Unfortunately the paneling portion fell just a bit too far below the waist on my first try, which is why I added that slip stitch faux boning (fauxning?)

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I also lengthened the sleeves so that they were full length instead of 3/4, and added Lion Brand Pelt faux fur yarn all around the trim.

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Finally, I put in horn-shaped toggle fasteners on so the garment could be buttoned down the length of the front. I ALMOST added pockets but I decided that could wait until my next try.

 

I’m pretty sure I want to explore this design more, and I have several potential tweaks in mind, but it might be a while because this glorious thing took 18 skeins of Lion Brand Amazing and 6 skeins of LB Pelt and goodness knows how many hours of stitching 😛 So I will let my ideas percolate away on the back burner for now – but I am pretty happy with this attempt at any rate!

-MF

 

 

Sylphie Dragon Hat Pattern Update

Sooooo I’ve been a huge fantasy nerd pretty much my whole life –  its no surprise that I joined in on the hysteria and got involved watching Game of Thrones a few years ago. Having recently made it through the 7th season without having a major coronary, I decided to celebrate by making some more dragons hats from my Sylphie Crocodile Stitch Hat pattern.

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While making the hats, I realized that the pattern file could use a little update, and the ears for the adult size could use one more row… and why not take a new round a pictures, with a little more zazz!

The updated PDF file is now available on Etsy and Ravelry for the ol’ usual 5.50 USD 🙂 If you’ve already bought it, you should be able to access the new file through your purchase/download history.

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DEETS:

5.00 mm Hook, 3.75 mm Hook (optional, for horns)
#5 weight yarn (For Adult Sizes)
#4 weight yarn (For Child & Baby Sizes)
Scissors & tapestry needle
Small bit of polyester fiberfill (optional, for horns)
Written in US crochet terminology

The whimsical crocodile stitch – with its 3-D look akin to scales, petals, leaves, or even berries – easily captures people’s hearts and imaginations. The Sylphie Crocodile Stitch Hat is as versatile as it is charming, so stitch one up and get transported into the realm of the flower-bedecked wee folk or impish and troublesome swamp dragons!

Even if you’ve never worked crocodile stitch, this pattern is easy to follow with detailed instructions including photo tutorials, charts, and step-by-step written directions. 3 sizes and directions for earflaps, braids, and dragon horns are all included!

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Had fun using my backdrops for this – the leaves kind of look like flames. Dracarys!

– MF

Lotus Duster 2.0

Finally! I have been working on rewriting, restyling, tweaking, and expanding this design for ages, and I am so excited it’s time to premier the new version for free here on the blog! (or for purchase in PDF – read on for more info).

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Special thanks to my beautiful BFF Danielle for modeling for me 😀

You can get this pattern in downloadable, printable format from my Ravelry Pattern Store or my Etsy shop for 5.50 USD. The PDF version also includes a TON (100+) of bonus tutorial photos in the regular version as well as a printer-friendly file with just text!

The old version is still available on the blog for those that were in the middle of working one and want to continue with the same version. The NEW version is right here!

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Some of the tweaks I have made to the design include reworking the neckline to make the collar more manageable (read- less ruffled), adding detailed instructions as to how to work the half rounds, rewriting the sleeve tutorial to be more precise, adding stitch counts for all the rounds on the main body, writing instructions on attaching ties, and generally cleaning up the writing style. OH, and I almost forgot – in response to many requests, there is now A LARGE SIZE! YAY! Check out the FREE pattern below!

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Lotus Mandala Duster

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Sizes Small (Left) and Large (Right)

Notes:
Reading the pattern: Pattern is written for Small with the changes for Large listed afterward – when there are no changes, directions apply to all sizes. Rows marked “Extra” with a decimal number are for Larges only (Example: “Extra Round 13.1”)

Joining the Rounds: This pattern frequently uses hdc and dc to join the rounds in the openwork portions. If you are having trouble with the round-end joins, please see my Chain & Stitch Join Tutorial at
https://moralefiber.blog/2017/07/24/chain-stitch-join-tutorial/

Color Changes: This pattern leaves you free to plan your own color changes. To change colors, cut old color and tie off, then join new color in the last stitch of the round (for solid rounds) or last chain space of the round (for openwork/lace rounds).

Yarns Used: The Small size Duster (pictured above on the left) is made with yarns recycled from sweaters. You can find a tutorial for how to reclaim yarn on my blog at:
http://wp.me/p5Dj8T-3d
The Large duster (pictured on the right) is made with the yarn listed in the Materials section.

Materials
5.5 mm hook (I always use an in-line hook for these)
Premier Cotton Fair (#2, 3.5 oz, 317 yds) – 6 skeins
Scissors & Tapestry Needle

Gauge: 3″ measured across the diameter after Rnd 3.

Final Dimensions:
SMALL: 22.5″ radius (measured from center of motif to bottom edge)
50″ diameter (measured from collar to bottom edge)
Up to 36” bust
LARGE: 26.5” radius
53” diameter
Up to 42” bust

Some terms:

Dc with last loop on the hook: YO once, insert hk into next st/sp, draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 lps on the hook. 2 lps remain on the hook (1 original and 1 left unworked from the dc stitch).

4-DC Cluster – Work 4 dc stitches, keeping the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 5 loops on the hook.

3-dc cluster – Work 3 dc stitches leaving the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 4 loops on the hook.

Shell – 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc

Main Body

  1. Make magic ring. 8 sc into the ring, tighten. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round. – 8 sc

 

  1. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sc, ch 1) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-4. – 8 dc + 8 spaces

 

  1. Sl st into the next ch-1 space, ch 2 – counts as first dc with last loop on the hook. Dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 6 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin your next round. – 8 clusters + 8 spaces

 

  1. Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on hk, dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. 16 clusters + 16 spaces

 

  1. Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on the hk. Dc into the same space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster into the next ch-2 space, ch 3) 14 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster to join. – 16 clusters + 16 spaces

 

  1. Ch 3 – counts as first dc, 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3. (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 16 sets of 3 dc + 16 spaces

 

  1. Sl st in the top of the next dc. (Sk next dc. In the next ch-3 space work 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc – shell made. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc) 16 times. Join with a sl st in first sl st. – 16 shells

 

  1. Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch 3, sc in the top of next tr stitch in the middle of the shell, ch 3. (Dc in the next sl st between shells, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 32 spaces

 

  1. Ch 3. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next sc and draw up a lp, (YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk) twice – one treble stitch leaving last lp on the hk made. Treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk – 3 lps remain on the hk. YO, draw through all 3 lps, ch 7. (In the last st worked the previous tr3tog, work 1 treble crochet leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk – 4 lps on the hk. YO, draw through all four lps on hk – tr3tog made, ch 7.) 15 times. Join with a sl st in top of first tr3tog. – 16 tr3tog + 16 spaces

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  1. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Work 1dc in the top of the next tr3tog st, ch 1) 15 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Sl st into 3rdch of beg ch-4.  – 48 clusters + 16 dc

 

  1. (Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Skip next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space, ch 3. Sk next cluster and space, sl st in next dc.) 15 times. Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Sk next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space. Sk next cluster and space, dc in same st as the sl st join of the previous round. – 32 clusters
  2. Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk. Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and draw through both lps on the hook – first tr2tog made. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the top of the next cluster. Sk next 2 chain-3 spaces, work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and pull through all 3 lps. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the first tr2tog. – 16 clusters + 16 tr2tog + 32 chain spaces
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  3. Sl st in the next ch-4 space, ch 3 – counts as first dc. Work 4 dc in the same space. (1 dc in top of the next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-4 space, 1 dc in top of the next tr2tog, 5 dc in next ch-4 space) 15 times. Work 1 dc in top of next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, 1 dc in top of tr2tog. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 192 dc sts

Extra Rnd 13.1: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 22 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 23 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 200 dc sts

 

Extra Rnd 13.2: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 23 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 24 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 208 dc sts

 

  1. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) 95, 103 Join with a sl stitch to the 3rdch of beg ch-4. – 96 dc + 96 ch-1 spaces, 104 dc + 104 ch-1 spaces.

 

  1. (Sk next ch-1 space. Work 1 hdc in the next dc. In the same st work 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc – scallop made. Skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc) 48, 52 Join with a sl st in the same st as join from the previous rnd. – 48 scallops, 52 scallops

 

When working with multiple colors, I always change colors after Rnd 15 – otherwise, the pretty scallops become hard to see after the next rnd.

  1. Ch 3 –counts as first dc. Sk next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next st (1 hdc in the next st, sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st) 47, 51 Hdc in next stitch, sk next st, join with a sl st to the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 192, 208 sts

 

  1. Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. (Sk next st, dc in next stitch, ch 2) 94, 102 Sk next st,dc in the next stitch. Hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5. – 96, 104 ch spaces

 

Extra Rnd 17.1 – Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 2) 102 times. Dc in the next space, hdc in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-5 to join. – 104 ch spaces

 

  1. Sc in the space formed by the hdc join of the previous rnd. Ch 3. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 3) 94, 102 Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 96, 104 ch spaces

Rnds 19-20. Rpt rnd 18.

Extra Round 20.1: Rpt Rnd 18 once more

Sleeve Yoke round:

21. Ch 3. (1 dc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 10,14 times. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 63, 65 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.- 84, 90 ch-1 spaces and 2 long chain loops that form the upper halves of the sleeve yokes

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22. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9 times. 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9, 13 times**. 1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 63, 65 times. 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 460, 488 sts

** Moving the armholes further apart or closer together to adjust the garment to your measurements will change this count. Just remember that any V-stitch in between the shoulder yokes should have 1 dc per space, not 3 as with the rest of the round.

23. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (Sk next three sts, 1 dc in the next st. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st) 114, 121 times. Sk next three sts, dc in the next st, ch 1. Hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. – 115, 122 V-stitches

24. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (1 dc in the next ch sp, ch 3, dc in the same space) 114, 121 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 115, 122 V-stitches

25. Sc in space formed by the hdc join of the previous round, ch 4. (Sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4) 113, 120 times.  Sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces

26. Sc in the space formed by the dc join of the previous rnd, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 4) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next ch sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces

27.Sc in the same sp, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 5) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next space, ch 2, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces

28-30. Rpt rnd 27.

Extra Rnd 30.1-30.2: Rpt rnd 27 two more times

31. Sc in the same sp, ch 6. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 113, 120times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces

Extra Rnd 31.1: Rpt Rnd 31

32. Sc in the same sp, 6 dc in next sc – one fan made. (1 sc in next ch-6 sp, 6 dc in next sc) 114, 121 times, join with a sl st in first sc of the round. – 115, 122 fans

33. Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st (the third dc of the fan), ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2. (sk 2 sts, dc in next sc, ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rd dc of next fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2) 113,120 times. Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next sc, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rd dc of next fan. Ch 1, sc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. – 345, 366 chain spaces

34. Ch 4 – counts as first hdc + ch 2. (Hdc in the next ch-2 space, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2) 114, 121 times. Hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, hdc in the 2nd ch of beg ch-2 to join. – 345, 366 ch spaces made

Working the following rounds on the top half only:

35. Ch 3. (Dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 1, dc in the same sp) 171, 191 times. Ch 3, Sl st in the next ch-2 space. Ch 3, turn. – 171, 191 dc V-stitches

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36. Sk first ch-3 space. Work 1 dc, leaving last lp on the hook in the next ch-1 space. Work 2 more dc with the last lp on the hook in the same space. YO and draw through all 4 lps on the hook – 1 3-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2) 169, 189 times. 3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 space, ch 3. Sk next ch space, sl st in the next hdc. Ch 3, turn. – 171, 191 dc clusters

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Work next round over entire circle.

37. 3 dc in the first ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 171, 191 times. 3 dc in the next ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 172, 173 times. 3 dc in the next chain space. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 1036, 1101 dc

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Cut yarn and tie off.

Sleeves:

Step 1. Attach yarn on the inside of the armhole, in the side of the last dc before the armhole on Rnd 21. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1, 2 dc more in the side of the dc. 2, 3 dc in each of the 8, 9 chain spaces – including the spaces that the v-stitches from Rnd 21 are worked into. 2, 3 dc into the side of the other Rnd 21 dc on the opposite end of the armhole. 1 dc into the base of all 30, 33 ch sts. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. – 50, 66  dc

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Step 2. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. – 25, 33 ch-1 spaces

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Step 3. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sp, ch 1) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. – 25, 33 ch-1 spaces

After a couple rows of this, size down to a smaller hook if desired. I sized down to 4.5 to make the sleeve snug on my upper arm.

Rpt Step 3 until your total reaches 23 rows, or until the length reaches just below your elbow.

Locate the ch space that is centered at the back of the elbow and mark it. (14th space from the join for me, 17th on the large) This will now be the increase center.

Step 4. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center. The middle chain space made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc join in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-4.

Repeat Step 4 until short side of sleeve is about mid-forearm (11 rounds for me)

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Step 5. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the space before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the next space – increase made. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center – increase made. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the space after the increase center- increase made. The middle chain space made in the middle increase is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending on a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.

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Shown above is the three adjacent increases made after Step 5, each with the center space of the increase marked.

Step 6. Ch 4– counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the middle of one increase before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the third increase. The middle chain space in the middle increase made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.

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(Basically, put a 3-space increase in the center of each increase, dc + ch 1 in every other space.)

Step 7. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the sp, ch 1) rpt the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.

Rpt Step 7 until the length reaches your wrist, or as many times as desired.

Step 8. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space. 1 dc in the next dc. (2 dc in next ch-1 space, 1 dc in next dc) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

-To add even more ruffle, increase the amount of dc sts per chain space.
– For extra length or added detailing, Rpt Step 8 then follow Steps 9 – 11

Step 9.  Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in ea st around. Join with a sl st in top of beg chain

Step 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Step 11: Ch 1 – counts as first sc. Sc in the next space. (Sc in the next dc, sc in the next space) rpt around. Join with a sl st to the beg ch.

Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat sleeve on the other side. Remember that if you start your second sleeve in the same place as the first, you will need to re-measure to find the space at the elbow before Step 4 – it may not be the same as you will be working in the opposite direction.

Weave in all ends.

Ties:

Beginning with the shell below the last cluster on the end of Rnd 36, place marker. Repeat on the other side. WS facing (or on the “inside” of the duster), attach yarn to the edge of the marked shell. Sl st in each stitch of the shells around, ending at the shell with the other marker. Be sure to keep your gauge fairly loose. Cut yarn and tie off, weave in ends.

Note: For larger sizes, you may want to move the row of slip stitching for the ties out to the very last round of the garment so that it can tie across the full front of the torso. Test your tie placement with the jacket on before deciding!

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Shown above is the slip stitching that reinforces the shells in preparation for attaching ties, worked in a contrasting color so you can see – I actually did the ties in the same white color as the rest of the garment.

Locate the shell in the middle of the two previously marked shells and mark it. This shell should fall in the center of your back when you try the coat on – if not, adjust placement so that it does.

With the coat on, decide where you want your ties to be and mark those shells with stitch markers. Take the coat off and make sure that your placement is even, using the middle marked shell as a guide. I like to do 3-4 ties on each side, 2-3 shells apart, beginning just above the apex of the bust.

Cut 5-6 yard long strands of yarn. Fold into a loop and pull through the middle slip stitch of the first shell on either side. Draw tail ends through the loop and tighten – separate into 3 bundles of four strands and braid to the end. Tie off. Cut 6 more strands, repeat the process of attaching to your next marked shell and braid. Repeat on one side, then switch to the other side and repeat process for as many ties as you like.

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Weave in all ends and block if desired. Congratulations on your new Lotus Mandala Duster!

(Individual artisans may feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern – just please link back to me!)

Time for more pictures!

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And I FINALLY made one just for me, as an early birthday present to myself:

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If you liked this pattern please consider sharing on Ravelry! I love seeing everyone’s awesome projects!

-MF