Chain & Stitch Join Tutorial

The chain & stitch combination join is probably the most-used technique in my yarny bag of tricks; it’s also the subject of many of the questions I get about my patterns!

I use this end-of-the-round joining technique in the majority of my designs, since it is ideal for openwork circular crochet (my favorite) in which you want to begin the next round in the middle of a chain space.

 

Crochet Market Bag 2

Say we are creating several rounds of ch-4 mesh loops, like in my free market bag pattern. Since the sc “anchor” of these loops is worked into the middle of the chain space, we have to begin and end the rounds in the middle. If we finish the last ch-4 loop and connect it to the first sc of the round, we join with a slip stitch and end the round with our hook positioned on the sc, not in the middle of the loop. In this scenario, it would be necessary to “travel” forward to the middle of the next loop to begin. Usually this is done by slip stitching.

Which totally works – but for personal preference, I like to replace the slip stitch travel with the chain & stitch combo join. It lets me avoid adding bulk or changing the tension of the lace design. Also, working into individual chain stitches can sometimes be tedious πŸ˜› As I’m sure we all know.

Here’s how to replace those slip stitch travels!

chainlength

Since each crochet stitch has an equivalent number of chain stitches, chain and stitch joins just replace a certain number of chain stitches in a loop with a crochet stitch of equivalent length worked into the stitch in which you would normally join. (Some people typically equate one chain length for a hdc. More on that later)

chstjoincombo1

In a chain 5 loop where we wanted to start the next round in the middle of a space, we’d replace the last 3 chains in the loop with a dc (equivalent of 3 chains) worked into the beginning of the round to join. This lands your hook in the middle of an equivalent sized space, ready to start the next round without traveling anywhere. The side of the dc stitch is now treated as the second half of the loop, with any new stitches of the next round worked under the side of the stitch.

chstjoincombo2

You can replace any number of chain stitches in a row-end join with a stitch, depending on where you want your hook to be positioned for the next round. If your next round works several stitches into the chain spaces, you can begin further back on the loop to make room by replacing more chains.

chstjoincombo3

The ch-1 and treble combo pictured above (forming a ch-5 sized loop) leaves some space ahead in the loop for working several stitches. Β Also, depending on your gauge and tension, you may find that some stitch join combos work better than others.

For instance, I often work stitch joins that are a little over half because I find that it ends up looking more centered. Using ch-1 and a double (3 chains long) to end in the middle of a ch-4 sized space works better for me than a combination of 2 chains and a hdc. The image below is an example that from the Lotus Mandala Duster pattern, which uses a ton of joins like this:

chstjoincombo4

Rather than work a ch-2 and hdc stitch join combo, which would ideally replace 2 of the chain stitches, I use a ch-1 and dc combo. One of the reasons for that is the pesky HDC is easily shortened by tension/gauge differences – which, actually, makes it good for replacing BOTH lengths of 2 chains and lengths of one chain.

LotusJoinTute1

In the example above, a hdc is replacing the entirety of a ch-2 length space before chaining for the next round. I keep the tension loose so it’s more like 2 ch stitches long. In the example below, I use the hdc to replace a ch-1 size space by keeping the tension tight to shorten it.

DSC_1242.jpg

PS this is DEFINITELY not a sneak peek of a brand new AWESOME pattern I am working on finishing up πŸ˜‰ I am NOT EXCITED ABOUT IT AT ALL

When it comes to ch-1 length spaces, I dither back and forth between chain & stitch joins and slip stitch travels. Sometimes substituting a stitch isn’t really necessary or is disadvantageous depending on where you want to land for your next round.

One way the choice between the two methods makes a difference is that it changes the way your join “seams” lean. For slip stitch traveling, each round is going to be offset FORWARD in your pattern, meaning that you will begin slightly further along in the circle in whichever direction you crochet (to the left for righties, to the right for lefties).

With chain & stitch join combos, your joins will lean BACKWARD in your pattern because each new round will be offset in the opposite direction you crochet (to the right for righties, to the left for lefties). Here’s an example of a part of the Lotus Duster that has several rounds of openwork crochet that use the chain & stitch join combo. The joins are highlighted.

chstjoincombo5.jpg

Because of this difference in direction, it’s important to use whichever join strategy the pattern indicates unless you are positive that it won’t matter later.

That’s it! If you have any questions about the chain & stitch join combo, ask away in the comments below! πŸ™‚

 

A few of my patterns that use the chain & stitch join combo: (clockwise left to right) Blossom Vest, Flower Child Pullover, Sol Halter Top, Mini Mandala Tam, Lotus Vest, Lotus Duster…

And of course, more to come πŸ˜‰

-MF

 

Advertisements

Leafy Tam Free Crochet Pattern

LeafyTamCover1

Since going back to school, tams have pretty much been my best friend. They are nice and practical, keeping my hair out of my face and away from getting caught in my bag straps; I like to wad up my hair, cram one of those babies on top and leave it there for the rest of the day. I usually make a Mini Mandala Slouchy Tam, but this time I wanted to do something new – and I liked the results so much I made another and wrote this pattern to share!

LeafyTam5

Leafy Tam

Materials:
5.50 mm hook
Accent Color Β – 20 yds any #4 weight yarn
Main color – Red Heart Boutique Treasure in β€œTapestry” Β (#4, 3.5 oz / 150 yds) – 1 skein
Gauge: 6 sts & 3 rows = 2″ in dc

For a detailed photo-tutorial on how to work the crochet leaf motif used in this pattern, see my blog post here.

Rnd 1: * Ch 5 – last 2 ch counts as the beg ch-2 in the leaf motif. In the 3rd ch from the hook, work 4 dc, ch-2 length picot in the last dc made, 3 hdc in the same stitch. Rotate, working in the same st on the other side of the beg chain, 2 hdc. Join motif in the round with a sl st in the 2nd ch of beg ch-2. Sl st in the 2nd ch st from the motif.* Rpt * to * 4 times total. Sl st in the bottom of the first motif to join the 4 leaves in a circle. Cut yarn and tie offΒ  –  4 leaves

LTam1LTam2ltam3

Rnd 2: With main color, join yarn with a single crochet to the picot of one of the leaves. (Ch 4, sc in the 3rd hdc. Ch 4, sc in the 2nd dc of the next leaf. Ch 4,* sc in the picot) 3 times, ending last rpt at *. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. – 12 ch-4 spaces

Rnd 3: Sl st in the next ch-4 space. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 3 dc in the same ch-4 space. (4 dc in the next ch-4 space) 11 times. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 48 dc

ltam7ltam8

Rnd 4: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 47 dc. Sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 48 dc.

ltam9

Rnd 5: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st. (1 Dc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 11 times. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 60 dc.

ltam10

Rnd 6: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in the next st. (1 Dc in ea of the next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 70 dc.

Rnds 7 – 10: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 Dc in ea of the next 69 sts. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 70 dc.

Rnd 11: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts. Dc2tog over the next 2 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 5 sts, dc2tog over the next 2 sts) 9 times. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 60 dc.

ltam11

Rnd 12: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts. Dc2tog over the next 2 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts, dc2tog over the next 2 sts) 9 times. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 50 dc.

Rnd 13: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 2 sts. Dc2tog over the next 2 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts, dc2tog over the next 2 sts) 9 times. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 40 dc.

ltam12

Rnds 14-16: Ch 2 – does not count as first st. Fpdc in the same st as join. Bpdc in the next st. (Fpdc in the next st, bpdc in the next st) 19 times. Join with a sl st to the first fpdc of the round.

ltam13ltam14
Remember when working the fpdc/bpdc that the dc2tog counts as ONE stitch to be worked into (as shown above)

Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in ends.

With accent color, Ch 5, make leaf motif. Ch 5 again, make 2nd leaf motif. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing. With a tapestry needle, sew these twin leaves to the brim of your new hat!

ltam15

LeafyTam3

Hope you like!

-MF

Lotus Cardigan Sleeve Free Pattern

First off, I am having a PATTERN SALE through my Ravelry store from now until June 30, 2017! Buy one pattern, get one free with the coupon code SALESTICE. Hope you are having a lovely summer so far!

Secondly, as promised, here is the FREE pattern/tutorial on attaching a cardigan-style sleeve to the Lotus Mandala Vest! I can’t stop making these in every colorway of Lion Brand’s Shawl in a Ball πŸ™‚

The sleeve pattern shown here is also now available as an adjunct PDF when you buy the PDF for the Lotus Vest (an option available for those who want a portable file rather than having to work from the free online version). If you already have bought the pattern, you should be able to access the new PDF through your purchases.

 

UnderSea1These instructions are for adding sleeves to the Lotus Mandala Circular Vest – the pattern is written for size small sleeves, but you can size up by skipping 1 dc in Rnd 2 instead of 2 dc and working fewer decreases throughout the pattern.

Materials:

5.5 mm hook

Lion Brand Shawl in a Ball – 3 skeins (2 for working the vest itself, 1 for adding the sleeves). Color show in Tutorial is “Prism”

Scissors and tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

To Begin:

Work the Lotus Vest in its entirety – with or without the extra rounds before the armholes is fine (the tutorial instructions are pictured WITH the 2 extra rounds). However, if you modified the length of the armhole chain & spacing, remember that the stitch counts for adding the sleeves will not be the same.

LotusSleeve1

Rnd 1: Join yarn in between the first 2 dc’s on the chain base of the upper part of the shoulder yoke. Ch-3.

LotusSleeve2

(1 Dc in between the next 2 dc sts) 39 times.

LotusSleeve3

2 dc under the side of the next dc.

LotusSleeve4

If you worked extra rounds: 2 dc in the same chain space occupied by the dc just worked into. 2 dc in each of the next 11 ch spaces. 2 dc in the next ch space (also occupied by the dc of the armhole round). 2 dc under the side of the next dc. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 70 dc sts

LotusSleeve5

If you didn’t work extra rounds: 1 dc in the same st occupied by the dc just worked into. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. 1 dc in the next dc (also occupied by the dc of the armhole round). 2 dc under the side of the next dc. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 70 sts

LotusSleeve6

Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next 2 sts. (1 dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next 2 sts) 22 times. 1 Dc in the next st, join with a hdc to the 3rd ch of beg ch-4. – 24 ch spaces

For a larger sleeve, skip only one st between dc stitches in Rnd 2.

Rnd 3: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. (1 dc in the next space, ch 1) 22 times. 1 dc in the next space, join with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4. – 24 ch spaces

LotusSleeve7LotusSleeve8

Rnds 4-7: Rpt Rnd 3.

LotusSleeve12

Rnd 8: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1) 11 times. Dc2tog over the next 2 ch spaces, ch 1. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1) 9 times. 1 dc in the next space, join with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 23 spaces

LotusSleeve13

Rnd 9: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1) 11 times. Dc2tog over the next 2 ch spaces, ch 1. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1) 8 times. 1 dc in the next space, join with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 22 spaces

Rnd 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1) 20 times. 1 dc in the next space, join with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 22 spaces.

Rnds 11-14: Rpt Rnd 10

Rnd 15: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1) 10 times. Dc2tog over the next 2 ch spaces, ch 1. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1) 8 times. 1 dc in the next space, joing with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4. – 21 spaces. – 21 spaces

Rnd 16: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1) 10 times. Dc2tog over the next 2 ch spaces, ch 1. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1) 7 times. 1 dc in the next space, joing with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4. – 21 spaces. – 20 spaces

Rnd 17: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1) 18 times. 1 dc in the next space, join with a hdc to the 3rd ch of the beg ch-4. – 20 spaces.

Rnds 18 – 34: Rpt Rnd 17.

Rnd 35: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1) 19 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4. 20 spaces.

Rnd 36: (Sk next ch-1 space. In the next dc work 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc. Sk next ch-1 space, sl st in the next dc.) 10 times. Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat on the other side.

Weave in all ends.

LotusSleeve14

Undersea2

Next color up: Moonstone! They’re addictive πŸ˜‰

-MF

Ivy Crown Free Crochet Pattern

 

 

When I first worked out my little quirky leaf motifΒ I knew I had to make a leafy crown out of it at some point – I just couldn’t find the right yarn at the hobby stores. I wanted it to be delicate and pretty, not bulky, but the yarns I tested didn’t fit the bill.

Ivy5

And then the very obvious solution hit me – use THREAD, not yarn, holding two strands together to make it bigger. Yay! So without further yammering, here’s the FREE crochet pattern for this fun leafy DIY floral crown.

Ivy Crown Crochet Pattern

 

Materials:
2.25 hook
#10 cotton crochet thread – You will need 2 cones of either the same or coordinating colors, because the pattern is worked with the 2 threads held together.

For a full photo tutorial on how to make the quirky crochet leaf, see this blog post.

  1. Grab both strands of cotton thread and form a slipknot.
  2. Ch 12.
  3. In the 3rd ch from the hook, work 4 dc.
  4. Work a ch-2 length picot in the top of the last dc.
  5. 3 hdc in the same st as the first 4 dc sts.
  6. Rotate the leaf – work 2 hdc in the same stitch but on the other side of the beginning chain (This is the quirky part – see the photo tutorial for help)
  7. Sl st in the 2nd ch of beg ch-2 on the leaf.
  8. Β Sl st into the 2nd ch st from the motif on your original chain, anchoring the back of your leaf.DSCN8069
  9. Repeat from Step 2 – you can vary the spacing of the leaves by adding or subtracting chain stitches in between, as long as you have a minimum of 5 ch sts. I like to randomize the chain length at anywhere between 8-12 stitches between leaves for a subtle organic look.

I repeated 44 times, for a total of 45 leaves or 55″ in length, and made three in different colors!

Ivy3

These leafy li’l guys have tons of potential:

  • twist or braid several together to create even fuller floral crowns (as seen pictured on my head)
  • add beads, charms, or little crocheted flowers
  • make shorter versions to create a choker necklace or double up the long version to make a lariat-style necklace. Like this!

I’ve got a respectable amount of crochet thread hanging around currently so I know I’ll be making more of these garlands!

-MF

 

Lotus Mandala Vest FAQ

Hi everyone! There’s been a recent surge in popularity of the freeΒ Lotus Mandala Vest pattern I designed last summer and I’ve been getting a lot of questions so I wanted to post this quick little FAQ. I have done my best to get back to everyone who Β had questions (let me know if I missed you!) and I am SOOOO STOKED that you all like it so much!

Lotus Mandala Vest FAQ

Where can I get a printable PDF of this pattern?:

There is now a PDF version of this pattern, as well as a low-image printer-friendly version, available through Ravelry and Etsy. Check out the details on this blog post.

Is there a video tutorial for this pattern?:

Yes! Fellow blogger Cynthialoowho volunteered to create a video tutorial for this pattern and it is now available on her Youtube channel here.Β Big thanks to her for providing this awesome video so quickly for everyone who was asking for one πŸ˜€

What size does this pattern fit?:

I designed this vest to have a very loose fit, with wide armholes placed 15″ apart across the back (relaxed). The diameter across the portion of the vest with armholes is 45″. The lovely Arika is shown modeling the vest in the pictures above, and it comfortably fits her with a bust of 41″, Β and a shoulder width measurement of 16″. Hopefully that gives a more accurate depiction of the sizing!

How do I make the vest bigger?:

There are several good strategies for sizing up on this pattern – and although I don’t have an exact pattern for different specific measurements, I can offer a few tips gathered from my own experience and what others have suggested:
– Make sure to take the measurement between the shoulders for the person who will be wearing it! This is how far apart to place the armholes. Smaller sizes will place the armholes closer together, larger will generally place them farther apart.
– For bigger sizes, you will probably want to add extra repeats of Rnd 29, to make sure there is a wide enough edge for the garment to drape and ruffle proportionately.
-It’s also an option to add additional rows just before the armhole round.
-You can increase the size of the armholes by simply chaining more per armhole (your stitch counts will be different, but as long as you just repeat the main pattern around, you should be good), but be sure to skip more stitches on the round below if you do.

How do I make this vest smaller/child size?:

This depends on how small you want the pattern to be. For a smaller adult/teen size, placing the armholes closer together will size the vest down, and you can also size down by using a smaller yarn weight (such as a #2 weight instead of a #4 weight) and smaller hook. However, I can’t say how well this design will work for very small children as I have not tried it. The central “lotus” motif to this vest is fairly large and might not sit well on a much smaller body – When asked about making it in child size I generally refer people to the great free pattern Ring Around the Rosie Vest from The Lavender Chair, which is similar in style and written specifically for the wee ones.

Where can I buy this vest?:

I’m not currently making these for sale, but there are some great shops on Etsy that I have seen selling this design if you search around. Fiona of MadeForYOUbyFiΒ on Etsy has several beautiful pieces made from this pattern and has generously offered a 15% off discount of orders over $50 when you use my special code “MORALE”!

~*~

That’s it for now! I will post more common questions if they come up. Thanks so much everyone for your support!

-MF

Tribal T-shirt Fringe Choker

dscn7547

Sometimes I have to burn off my excess creative energy by doing something I can finish quickly! These wild textile jewelry pieces fit the bill, especially since I’ve been trying to clean my shamefully stuffed craft storage and shredding stockpiled t-shirts is a pretty effective method for me to do that.

dscn7550

This tutorial is a guide for the refashion-centric among us, and you don’t even really need to be able to crochet to make it! Only the simplest crochet stitch, the chain stitch, is necessary. It’s explained here for those who don’t know how.

There are lots of different methods for cutting t-shirt yarn, and you don’t have to cut yours the same way as shown here, but this method is featured because you can use t-shirts with lots of seams (ex: Women’s fitted t-shirts). Of course, if you want to save yourself the trouble, you could just buy some commercially produced t-shirt yarn instead!

DSCN7506.JPG

Materials:
1 Jersey knit cotton t-shirt, plain
9.00 mm crochet hook
Scissors

Step 1: Lay out your T-shirt and cut up the side seams Β on both sides of the front and across the top. It’s okay to cut a little wonky to get extra material from the bust area below the collar, but I’ve found it’s best to keep in GENERALLY rectangle shaped.

DSCN7508.JPG

Step 2: Beginning with your wonky – cut side (or any side if you don’t have one) start cutting a strip about an inch in width. The goal is a thin-ish strand once you stretch the material. It can be a little more or a little less than an inch depending on the material, but be careful because if it’s too thin, it’ll break when stretched. Leave your strip attached by about an inch of uncut material.

DSCN7509.JPG

Step 3: Flip your t-shirt piece around and cut Β about an inch to the opposite side of the uncut end. Do this 3 or 4 more times to get Β a long uncut strand (for a small size) or 2-3 more times for larger t-shirts. It’s better to have more than you need than not enough, and in fact you could cut the entire piece of t-shirt material this way, but I don’t like to because cutting this way leaves tabs. Speaking of which….

DSCN7510.JPG

Step 4: Once you’ve got your long piece, start gently stretching your strip to curl the material to make it round and yarn-like. Use a light touch at first! Now, to deal with those tabs created by zigzagging the material. Take your scissors and round those babies off, then stretch them a little more (be careful here – rounding the corners makes the fabric thin and therefore weak to stretching). Still a little messy, but stitching will mask that.

dscn7513dscn7514dscn7516dscn7517

Step 5: Set your long strip aside – I had almost 3 yards. Now lay out your remaining rectangle of t-shirt fabric and get one inch strips straight across, shearing them completely from the main fabric so that they are individual strips. Stretch each of these strips. For a standard amount of fringe, you’ll want to have 23-26 strips, so use cut out the back piece of the t-shirt and use it for more short strips if you have to.

DSCN7518.JPG

If you are using commercial yarn or a continuous strip in this step, cut your strands to DOUBLE the length you want your fringe to be.

DSCN7520.JPG

Step 6: Grab your hook and your long strand. Leaving a tail of yarn about 10″ long, create a slipknot loop. With your hook in the loop, grab the long end of your yarn with the hook and pull it through the loop, leaving your hook in the middle of the new loop. One chain stitch made.

dscn7521dscn7524dscn7527dscn7528

Repeat until you have 25-ish chain stitches, or however long you need your chain to be to fit your neck. If you’re feeling adventurous, try using the Double Chain techniqueΒ instead of the regular chain. I like to use this on the fringe chokers because it helps them lie flatter around the collarbone.

dscn7529dscn7530dscn7531

Once you’ve completed your stitches, tie off (i.e – pull the rest of your strip out through the last loop), and leave a 10″ tail when cutting off excess yarn. If you complete your required stitches but don’t have a 10 inch tail left over, just tie it off for now. We can use a short strip to attach an adequate length of tie later.

Step 7: Finally! Fringing time! Lay out your chain. Grab some of your short t-shirt strands and double them over. You might have some that are shorter than others – aesthetically I like those to be on the outside toward the shoulders but you might not care. Anyway, double those puppies over.

DSCN7533.JPG

Insert your hook into the loop on the bottom of your chain or double chain, from back to front, and catch the doubled side of your strand with the hook. Pull it through so you’ve got a loop.

Now catch the loose ends of your short strand with the hook. Pull those through your loop completely. Tighten.

dscn7534dscn7535dscn7536dscn7537dscn7538

Ta-Da! Now do that until you have fringed the entire choker, or at least the majority of it.

DSCN7540.JPG

Step 8: Attach extra ties at the end of your chain if you need to, for fastening around the neck. You could be done at this point, but I like to add a little knotwork around the top.
To add knotwork, take two adjacent pairs of fringe and separate one strand from each pair (make sure the strands are also right next to each other). Pick up both strands and tie in a simple knot. Repeat across.

dscn7541dscn7542dscn7543dscn7544dscn7546

These can beΒ used as a base for adding even wilder decorations like beads, feathers, leather strips, chains, etc… But since I’m short on time, I’ll leave those for another day!

That stylish bikini underneath the necklaces is also made from recycled materials. Check out my post, the Bindu Recycled Sweater Bikini, for more on that.

-MF

Tunisian Ripple Scarf Free Pattern

I’ve developed persistent fondness for Tunisian crochet – two of my most recent paid patterns have been in this style and I’ve recently started exploring a variety of different types of Tunisian stitching. One of those little experiments grew up to be a successful project, which I’m excited to share with you here for free!

tkscarf1

………..
EDIT 4/20/2017: Unfortunately the blog I reference in the following paragraph is defunct, which sucks because it was awesome. For instructions on TSS, check out this great tutorial instead.Β For a tutorial on Tunisian Knit Stitch, the ever-fabulous Moogly provides.
…………..

One of my favorite resources for Tunisian is My Tunisian Crochet, which has a nice collection of different stitches for this type of crochet as well as a video channel (yay!). This scarf uses Tunisian Simple Stitch to create the first row and then moves on to Tunisian Knit Stitch for the rest of the pattern.

And speaking of videos, this free pattern comes with a little video demo I put together for this scarf. I’m still at the beginning of the learning curve for making instructional videos, but my goal is to expand some of my past and future patterns by adding video tutorials to accompany the written and/or charted instructions. This video is sort of a little test run! So without further waffling, here’s the pattern.

Tunisian Ripple Scarf

tkscarf2

Materials:
6.5 mm Tunisian crochet hook
Any worsted weight yarn (I used Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek in Light Gray)
Tapestry needle & scissors for weaving in ends

dscn7505

Ch. 39.

Row 1: In Tunisian Simple Stitch. Pick up a loop from each of the next 38 chain stitches.Work all sts back off the hook.

Row 2: In Tunisian Knit Stitch. Sk first stitch. Pick up a lp from the next 3 stitches. *Pick up a lp from the next space between stitches. Pick up a lp from the next st. Pick up a loop from the next space between stitches. Pick up a lp from the next 5 sts. Insert hook through the next 3 stitches at once and draw up one loop. Pick up a loop from the next 5 sts.* Rpt from * once more. Pick up a lp from the next space between sts, pick up a lp from the next st, pick up a lp from the next space between sts. Pick up a lp from ea of the next 3 sts. Sk next st. Pick up a lp from the final st. Work all sts back off the hook (the same way you would for Tunisian Simple Stitch!) – 39 sts

Rows 3+ : Repeat Row 2.

Repeat Row 2 until your scarf is the length you want it! I made a 75″ scarf, which used about 2 and a half skeins of my yarn (about 645 yards).

dscn7497

What I ended up loving about this design is that…
a.) It has a very pretty texture on both the right side AND the wrong side
b.) It’s SO thick and cushy, and since I made this one about 2 yards long, there’s plenty of scarf there to wrap around your neck to keep the icy winds out.
c.) It’s gender neutral – my partner claimed this one for his own before it was even halfway done!

If you want more pattern goodness, you should check out my Ravelry page!

-MF