Elf Coat Pattern PDF

It’s finally time! The instructions for the Elf Coat, including all three adult sizes (Small, Medium, and Large) and the tutorial for the corset back lacing is all gathered and published in one downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF!

Without further ado, here is the pattern now available in my Ravelry Store and my Etsy shop for just 5.95 USD!

I’m so grateful for everyone that has supported and followed my work ❀ I really couldn’t feel more blessed, having had so many people give me kind words, feedback, and of course pictures of the awesome things they’ve made!

ONE quick answer to a question a lot of people have asked – what about more sizes? The answer is that I will probably EVENTUALLY write more sizes for the Elf Coat such as XL and YA/Kids sizing, but for now I am going to take a much needed break from working on this pattern πŸ™‚ I’ve been laboring over it for literal years, and though I love this design as one of my most precious brain children, I need to work on other things for a while πŸ™‚ You can see what I’m up to by liking and following my Facebook Page or find out what others are making with my designs by joining the MF crochet group, the Magic Fantastic Crochet Atelier!

And now, read on for the pattern spiel!

This elegant fantasy-inspired sweater coat features an A-line silhouette with a curling, pointed geometric hem shape inspired by flower blossoms, delicate pointed bell sleeves, and of course a long and ample pointed elf hood. The variegated yarn creates dazzling prisms of color across the separately worked pieces of the coat.

Featuring Tunisian crochet in a stitch that mimics knitting, the texture and weave of this coat is both sleek and warm. The Tunisian technique creates a tightly constructed fabric that drapes nicely while also holding a tailored shape that fits and flatters.

Lots of inspiration for this came from recycled sweater artist Katwise, and you should definitely check out her website at http://www.katwise.com !

Materials: 
6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook 
King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic – color shown is Autumn) – 10, 13, 16 skeins 
*OR*
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 13, 16, 20 skeins 

Sizes: 
Small, Medium, Large. 
Pattern instruction changes are given in for each size, in this order. 

Finished Measurements: 
Waist: ~34β€³, 40”, 45” 
Bust: ~34β€³, 40”, 45” 
Hip: ~36β€³, 42”, 47” 
Sleeve: 22β€³ (measured armpit to hem), 22”, 22” 
Length: ~37β€³, 

Pattern written in US crochet terminology. Language is English.

❀ MF

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Elf Coat Corset Lacing

One extra element I’ve been dying to get worked out on my Elf Coat design (available for FREE here on my blog in sizes Small, Medium, and Large) was the corset back lacing. Remember the original, original draft of this design? It featured a corset back, and this newer iteration was to get the same treatment.

The first Elf Coat didn’t, however, because at certain points I just HAVE to call something done and move on for a minute. Well, here I am having finally finished the second Elf Coat in size Medium (like… 6 months later) and it was time.

And. I. Am. In. LOVE with how it worked out, true to the vision I had in my head. Don’t you just love it when that happens? This extra feature makes the coat more adjustable and definitely flatters even more! Here’s how to do it!

Corset Back Lacing

On the back of the finished Elf Coat, locate the central panel in the series. Locate the two panels on either side of the central panel, then mark the stitches on the two outer edges of these panels with a stitch marker. I went just a few stitches outside of this point even, but you can adjust based on how much you wish to be able to cinch the coat. We will be working 4 rows of LDC directly into the TKS, running vertically up the back, then repeating this process on the mirror side.

With the 3.50 hook and yarn, attach at the marked stitch by inserting the hook through the two front bars of the knit stitch, as if they were the two top bars of a regular crochet stitch.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). LDC in the next 41 sts. You may also alter the length of the corset backing, if your coat is longer or you want a higher cinch.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Sk next st, LDC in the next 38 sts. Sk next st, LDC in the last st.

Row 3: Ch 3, turn. Sk next st, LDC in the next 2 sts. Ch 1, sk next st. (LDC in the next 4 sts, ch 1, sk next st) 6 times. LDC in the next 3 sts.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn. Sk next st, LDC in the next 35 sts, sk next st. LDC in the last st.

Repeat Rows 1 -4 on the opposite side at the point marked.

Cut yarn and tie off, weave in all ends. I used a mesh/ribbon yarn to lace mine!

As I mentioned in the intro, this does not spell the end of the Elf Coat saga I am sure – I would also like to add pockets, maybe a tie belt option…. fur trim… you name it!

-MF

Elf Coat Pattern: Large

Size pictured: medium

Thanks to all the beautiful people out there who expressed love and enthusiasm for the Elf Coat saga, I have managed to finish writing the Large size pattern! I really enjoyed working on this design, particularly gathering inspiration and feedback from social media, as it evolved and transformed for me. And, I’m sure it isn’t done yet!

The downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF pattern is also available for purchase now in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Pattern Store, and includes all three sizes plus the tutorial for the corset back!

You can also find the sizes Small and Medium patterns for FREE on my blog. If you want to be in the loop on everything I’m working on be sure to follow my Facebook page here and join my Magical Crochet FB group here!

Size pictured: small

Elf Coat Pattern: Large

Materials

6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook
King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic – color shown is Autumn) – 16 skeins
Gauge for Riot DK: 9 sts & 10 rows = 2” (top of ea block = 3.5”)
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 20 skeins
Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”

Sizes: Large. (Small and Medium can be found on my blog for free as well!

Finished Measurements:
Waist: 45”
Bust: ~ 45”
Hip: ~ 47”
Sleeve: 22β€³ (measured armpit to hem), 22”, 22”
Length: ~37”

This pattern is based on the number of wedges in the skirt. Large is made from a 13-wedge skirt (7 pointed, 6 simple). Shown below is a size Small, made from 9 wedges.

Size Medium: 5 pointed wedges, 6 simple wedges

Notes on yarn, gauge, and sizing:

Yarn: I chose King Cole Riot DK yarn for this pattern because of it’s long color changes and pretty one-ply structure that makes the colors and the stitches well defined. The DK weight and 30% wool content creates a sleek and lightweight fabric that is also very warm. However, the big box hobby stores in the U.S do not carry this yarn – I get it from a UK website called LoveKnitting.com (which I highly recommend!).

So, I wanted to find a substitute yarn that is more commercially available and the closest I could find was Red Heart Unforgettable, which also looks gorgeous for this design. RH Unforgettable is 100% acrylic, which has the benefit of zero felting, and being allergy/vegan friendly. It is also a #4 weight yarn which means it will gauge differently.

Gauge: Since the two yarns gauge differently, I have listed the gauges for each yarn individually under the materials section. These are using the 6.50 mm hook listed. If you use Unforgettable following it’s gauge, you can get a slightly bigger coat using the same stitch counts listed in the pattern.

9 stitches = 2β€³ in Riot DK

10 rows = 2β€³ in Riot DK

8 sts = 2β€³ in RH Unforgettable. It’s really more like 8.5 stitches, but we’re calling it 8 because of stretch!

9 rows = 2β€³

 It’s also an option to change the hook size for Unforgettable to obtain the gauge given for Riot DK, if you want to use the alternate yarn but still get the size pictured.

NOTE FOR LEFTIES: If you are left-handed, your pattern pieces will be mirrored – for instance, your left panel for the torso of the jacket will be worked from the Right Panel pattern, and vice versa.

Techniques Used:

Chain (ch)
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) – stitch used for each coat piece. Tutorial can be found on my blog here:  https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Increase (TKS inc): Increasing in Tunisian Knit Stitch. Tutorial here: – https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Decrease (TKS dec): Decreasing in Tunisian Knit stitch – tutorial here: https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
Linked Double Crochet (LDC): Creating a row of double crochet that are linked in the middle. Tutorial here:  https://moralefiber.blog/2018/02/02/linked-double-crochet-tutorial/
Slip Stitch (Sl st): Used selectively for seaming
Whip Stitch: Sewing stitch made with a tapestry needle with yarn as thread, used for seaming.

Technique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful crochet technique and I love it and highly recommend learning if you haven’t. But since this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just rows of regular stitches with some increases and decreases – that’s really it) a different technique can easily be substituted in. As long as your stitches match the gauge given, you could work this pattern in regular single crochet or regular knit stitch.

One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet or one regular knit/purl stitch.

I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single crochet, and obtained a closely matching gauge using a 4.0 mm hook.

Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does wonders for your finished piece, especially with Tunisian crochet which tends to curl. Blocking for this piece can be done simply by laying your piece out on a foam mat, using blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat and pretty and in the right shape. Using a spray bottle and plain water, wet the piece, then let dry. This works great with wool based yarns (King Cole Riot DK) and moderately well with acrylics (RH Unforgettable).

If you have any questions about any of the info given above (it’s a lot!), please don’t hesitate to contact me via e-mail at moralefiber@yahoo.com or on my blog Pattern Help and Support page here:
https://moralefiber.blog/pattern-help-support/
Or via Messenger on my FB page here:
www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber

Now on to the pattern!

Instructions

Simple Wedge (Make 6)

Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.
Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts.
Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts.
Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.

Pointed Wedge (Make 7):

Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 20-27: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next 8 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 29-32: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next 9 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 34-37: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next 10 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 39-42: TKS across, RP. – 25 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next 11 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 44-47: TKS across, RP. – 27 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. RP. – 33 sts
Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next 16 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 59: TKS across, RP. – 37 sts
Row 60: TKS in the next 17 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 61: TKS across, RP. – 39 sts
Row 62: TKS in the next 18 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts
Row 64: TKS in the next 19 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts
Row 66: TKS in the next 20 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 71: TKS in the next 25 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 72: TKS in the next 26 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 73: TKS in the next 27 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 74: TKS in the next 28 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 75: TKS in the next 29 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 76: TKS in the next 30 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 78: TKS in the next 32 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Skirt Construction

Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges as shown, seam all blocks together with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn.

Skirt Border:

The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked Double Crochet, worked back and forth, with increases at the point of each pointed wedge.

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of the skirt hem.
Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at the point of each pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this increase.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each point where the increase was marked.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each ch-1 from the increase points of the previous row.

Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie off. You can work extra border here if you want the skirt longer!

Close-up of the increases placed at the point of each pointed wedge

WAIST:

The waist is worked directly onto the top of the wedges that make up the skirt. One stitch is skipped on every block, to create a slight decrease in width to accentuate the waist.

Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the tops of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 12 times. RP. – 182 sts
Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP. To modify the size here, add or subtract any rows  after the first one to make it longer or shorter.

Back Panel:

The back panel is worked the length of stitches that equals half of the number of stitches in the waist. . In Large, 182 divided by 2 equals 91.

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 91
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 89 sts. Return pass (RP). – 91 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 91 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 83 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 89 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 81 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 87 sts
Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 79 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 85 sts
Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 77 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 83 sts
Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 75 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 81 sts
Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 73 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 79 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 71 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 77 sts
Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 69 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 75 sts
Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 67 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 65 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 63 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 61 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 59 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 40: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 57 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 61 sts
Row 42: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 59 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 51 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 57 sts
Row 44: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS I the next 2 sts. RP – 55 sts
Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 53 st

Row 46: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKs dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 51 sts
Row 47: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 49 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 47 sts
Row 49: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 45 sts
Row 50: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 43 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 41 sts
Row 52: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 39 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 37 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 35 sts
Row 55: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 31 sts
Row 57: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 29 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 27 sts
Row 59: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 25 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Front Panel – Right:

The front panels are worked with the length of stitches equaling the half of the waistband that the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two, so each panel will be a quarter of the total waistband stitches. For larges, 182 / 4 = 45.5. Since that’s not a whole number, I will round down to 45 and fudge the seam a tiny bit.

Front panel, right. The panel pictured is worked with 38 even rows in the beginning to create a longer coat. The pattern is written for 26.

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 45.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 43 sts. Return pass (RP). – 45 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 45 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 44 sts.
Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 40 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 43 sts.
Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 42 sts.
Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 38 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 41 sts.
Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 40 sts.
Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 36 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 39 sts.
Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 36 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 38 sts.
Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP –37 sts.
Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 36 sts.
Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 35 sts.
Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 34 sts.
Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 33 sts
Row 39: TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 32  sts
Row 40: TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 31 sts
Row 41: TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 30 sts
Row 42: TKS in ea of the next 27sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 29 sts
Row 43:  TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 28 sts
Row 44: TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 27 sts
Row 45: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 26 sts

Row 46: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25 sts
Row 47: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 sts
Row 48: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23 sts
Row 49: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22 sts
Row 50: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21 sts
Row 51: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20 sts
Row 52: TKS in ea of the next 16 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13  sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 54: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 55: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 56: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 57: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 58: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 59: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Front Panel – Left:

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 45.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 29, 36, 43 sts. Return pass (RP). – 45 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. –45 sts
Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 42 sts. RP – 44 sts.
Row 28: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 41 sts. RP – 43 sts.
Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 40 sts. RP – 42 sts.
Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 39 sts. RP – 41 sts.
Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 38 sts. RP – 40 sts.
Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 37 sts. RP – 39 sts.
Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 36 sts. RP – 38 sts.
Row 34: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 35 sts. RP – 37 sts.
Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. RP – 36 sts.
Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. RP – 35 sts.
Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. RP – 34 sts.
Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. RP – 33 sts.

Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. RP. – 32 sts
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. RP. – 30 sts
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. RP. – 28 sts
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. RP. – 26 sts

Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Row 47: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. RP. – 24 sts
Row 48: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Row 49: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. RP. – 22 sts
Row 50: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Row 51: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. RP. – 20 sts
Row 52: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. RP. – 19 sts. Row 53: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 54: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 55: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 56: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 57: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 58: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 59: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seam the Back & Front Panels

Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch the sides of the panels together so that the long angles face each other. Stitch together the straight sides, but not the angles. Once the bodice is sewn together, line the flat bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach using a 3.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn by working a slip stitch through both pieces.

SLEEVE (Make 2):

Sleeve size large, in progress.

Ch 16.
Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts
Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts
Row 3: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 20 sts
Row 4: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 22 sts
Row 5: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 24 sts
Row 6: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 26 sts
Row 7: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 28 sts
Row 8: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 30 sts
Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 34 sts
Row 11: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 36 sts
Row 12: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 38 sts
Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts
Row 14: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts
Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 38 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts
Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 46 sts
Row 17: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 42 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts
Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 44 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 50 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 52 sts
Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts
Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 56 sts
Row 22: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 52 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 23: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 54 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 60 sts

Row 24: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 56 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 25: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 58 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 26: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 60 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 66 sts
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 62 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts.
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 64 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 70 sts

Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 66 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 72 sts
Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 68 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 74 sts
Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 70 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 76 sts
Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 72 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 74 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 80 sts


Row 34: TKS in ea st across. Rp. – 80 sts
Row 35: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts
Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 74 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 78 sts
Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 72 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 76 sts.
Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 70 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 74 sts
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 68 sts. TKs dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in the final st. RP. – 72 sts.
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 66 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 70 sts.
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 64 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 68 sts.


Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 66 sts.
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 64 sts.
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 58 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 62 sts
Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 56 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 60 sts
Rows 46 – 86: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 60 sts
Row 87: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 54 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 62 sts
Row 89: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 56 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 90: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 64 sts
Row 91: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 58 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 66 sts
Row 92: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 66 sts
Row 93: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Row 94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 95: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 70 sts
Row 96: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 70 sts
Row 97: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 72 sts
Row 98: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 72 sts
Row 99: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 66 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 74 sts
Row 100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 74 sts
Row 101: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 68 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 76 sts
Row 102: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76 sts
Row 103: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Row 104: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 105: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 72 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 80 sts
Row 106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts
Row 107: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 74 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82 sts
Row 108: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82 sts
Row 109: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 84 sts
Row 110: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84 sts
Row 111: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 78 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 86 sts
Row 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 86 sts
Row 113: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 80 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 88 sts
Row 114: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts
Row 115: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 82 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 90 sts
Row 116: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 90 sts
Row 117: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 84 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 92 sts
Row 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 92 sts
Row 119: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 86 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 94 sts
Row 120: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 94 sts
Row 121: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 88 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 96 sts
Row 122: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 96 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Sleeve:

Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the piece. Seam together using a whip stitch, starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving toward the shoulder. At the underarm of the sleeve, match the remaining opening to the front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows to cap the tops of the panels, overlapping the top by 4 stitches.

Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the front and back panels.

Close-up of the sleeve fitting.

Sleeve Border

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam where the sleeve is sewn together.
Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 times in the same stitch, inserting hook as if to TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join with a slip stitch in the top of the first dc.
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first stitch and 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.

Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves longer here by adding extra border rounds of LDC.

Close-up of sleeve border. Beware my join is not in the same place pictured as is written in the pattern – whoops!

HOOD:

The hood is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete. This hood is has a very long point – it’s a lot of hood! If you prefer a shorter hood, seed β€œHalf Hood” instructions in the Size Medium pattern. Either size hood can be made and attached to any size Elf Coat.

Ch 3.
Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of the next 2 chain stitches. RP. – 3 sts
Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Rows 3-4: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts
Row 5: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next 3 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Rows 6-7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts
Row 8: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.
Rows 9-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts
Row 11: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 12-13: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts
Row 14: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Rows 15-16: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts
Row 17: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 18-19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts
Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 21-22: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts
Row 23: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 24-25: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 19 sts
Row 26: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 27-28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts
Row 29: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 30-31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts
Row 32: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 33-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts
Row 35: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 36-37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts
Row 38: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 39-40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts
Row 41: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 42-43: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 31 sts
Row 44: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 33 sts
Row 45-46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts
Row 47: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 35 sts.
Rows 48-49: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 35 sts
Row 50: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 37 sts.
Rows 51-52: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts
Row 53: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 39 sts
Rows 54-55: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 39 sts
Row 56: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 41 sts
Rows 57-58: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 41 sts
Row 59: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 43 sts
Rows 60-61: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 43 sts
Row 62: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 45 sts
Rows 63-64: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts
Row 65: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 47 sts
Rows 66-67: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 49 sts
Rows 69-70: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 49 sts
Row 71: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 51 sts
Rows 72-73: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts
Row 74: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 53 sts
Rows 75-76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.
Row 77: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in ea of the next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 58 sts
Rows 78-79: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts
Row 80: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 63 sts.
Rows 81-82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 63 sts
Row 83: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp) 4 times. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Rows 84-85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 86: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 16 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Rows 87-88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 73 sts
Row 89: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts.
Rows 90-91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 92: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 83 sts
Rows 93-94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts
Row 95: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 88 sts
Rows 96-97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts
Row 98: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 93 sts
Rows 99-100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 93 sts
Row 101: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 98 sts
Rows 102-103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts
Rows 104-121: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Hood

Fold the large triangle down the center length so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other and the wrong sides are out. With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, make a whip stitch seam starting at the point of the hood and seaming over the next 89 (Full Hood) or 63 (Half Hood) rows toward the opening of the hood.

Once this seam is complete, there should be 32 rows left un-seamed on either side. Turn your hood inside out so that the right sides are facing out again.

How did I get the number of rows to leave unseamed? It’s (8+8) to account for the small angled part on each side of the front panel, plus (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then (25-8= 17) to cover the portion of the top of the back panel not already covered by the cap of the sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded down to 64 to get an even number when I halved it – so 32 rows left unseamed on either side of the hood.

The hood then is seamed to the collar of the garment (once all sleeves and everything have been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching the points of the hood opening indicated by the red dots to the beginning of the collar on the front, also indicated by red dots.

Seam the hood around the collar opening, matching stitch for stitch.

Front Border and Closures

We’re almost done! Next up is to use four rows of LDC to add a border across the entire front opening, beginning with the hem, working up the opening of the garment, going around the edge of the hood, and working back down the other side of the front opening. After the third row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the buttons. For traditional buttonholes, stop to mark the placement after the second row.

Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of the skirt border rows.

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Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1 LDC in the side of each row across the next wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side of each row across the front panel, waist band, and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each LDC of the skirt border.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1. Traditional buttonholes mark placement here.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2. Loop buttonholes mark placement here.

Close-up of LDC border

Marking buttons:

Mark where your buttons will be on one side, and mark an equidistant space on the other side of the border for where you will place your loops or buttonholes. I began with one button/closure on the top and bottom edge of the waist band, then used this measurement (17 sts between each placement) to space the other buttons. I made five button placements total.

Once your button placements have been marked, begin the next row of LDC.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you reach a button/closure marker. If you are on the button side, keep working LDC’s. If you are on the closure side, there are two options: You can chain a couple stitches and skip over working a couple stitches, which creates a buttonhole within the band and a tighter closure. I opted to use a loop closure, which leaves the front a little more open when buttoned.

If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big enough to fit the button through, then slip stitch in the same stitch. Continue working LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain loop at any point where a closure is marked.

If making traditional buttonholes, stop LDC and chain one before a marked stitch. Skip marked stitch and resume LDC until you reach the next marked stitch, repeat.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Stopping to chain a loop closure

Traditional buttonholes

After finishing the final border row, use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach each button at the marked location on the opposite side of the closures.

Weave in all of your ends, and you are finished with your Elf Coat! That is, unless I can interest you in a Corset Back Lacing?

πŸ˜‰ – MF

Basic Bralette PDF and Pattern Sale

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Good news double whammy! Since the free Basic Bralette pattern continues to top the rankings for most popular posts here, I decided to offer it as a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF also! It’s now available for purchase through my Ravelry Store and my Etsy Shop ❀  Read on for more info!

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The new PDF includes both the original Basic Bralette design and the modification for larger busts, the Curvy BraletteΒ tutorial πŸ™‚ AND there’s a super sweet sale going right now where you can get any of my halter top patterns from either Ravelry or Etsy for a whopping HALF OFF! Use the code “SUMMERSALE” now through July 28, 2019.

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When dreaming up this design, I had some specific requirements in mind: that it be a simple β€œbase” pattern from which many variations could be made, as well as being easily customized for many sizes, and last but not least – comfortable! After a few experiments, the pattern for the Basic Bralette was born.

I went with in-the-round triangle style cups for both the way they look and the ease of adjusting their size, plus a band through which the cross-back ties thread so that there is no pressure being put on the neck as with traditional bikini-style strap ties.

In addition, I added a bit of strappy flair along the inner cups, because TRENDY. Say hello to your next cute and comfy summer crochet project!

Now, there’s a teeny bit of math involved, fair warning. However, if you are confused about gauge and measurements, I’m here to help – or just wing it, and use the old β€œhold it up against yourself periodically while you work” method.

This PDF pattern includes written, step-by-step instructions and lots of clear tutorial photos as well as tips for modifying the pattern for different sizes. Both the Basic Bralette pattern and the Curvy Bralette pattern modification are included in the file!

Materials:
3.50 mm hook
#4 weight cotton yarn (although you can make it with any weight yarn / hook size combo as long as you know your gauge!) 1-3 skeins depending on size made
Stitch markers
Scissors & Tapestry Needle
Measuring Tape

Measurements Needed:
Band Size (measured around the rib cage just under the bust): For example, my measurement would be 32”
Measurement A : (Band size β€œ / 4) – 2” = Length of each side of completed triangle cup ( My example would be [32 / 4] – 2 = 6”). Therefore, my Measurement A = 6β€³
Measurement B: (Measurement A) / 2 = My Measurement B would be 3”

Size:
The original Basic Bralette pattern can be modified in size to any size that you like, but because of the flatter nature of the cups it really works best for sizes Small – Medium (32A – 34). The pattern ALSO includes the Curvy Bralette Mod, which is a modification for larger busts. This mod uses a border to draw the cups in more, creating a deeper cup for larger busts and works better for C cups and some B cups depending on the shape. I haven’t personally made any cup sizes larger than D in this pattern, though I’m sure it can be done.

Written in US terminology.
Language: ENGLISH

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I’m thinking about making more of my original free designs available as purchasable PDF crochet patterns, and also adding some originally purchasable patterns into the free blog pattern mix! Are there any particular designs you’d like to see available in both formats?

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❀ ❀ ❀ As always, a huge thank you to everyone who supports my art by purchasing patterns from me! Paid patterns make up the majority of my income for my art and allow me to keep designing crochet both for free and for sale. It’s really what I love best and you all make it possible!

-MF

Valkyrie Top Crochet Pattern

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It seems to be a running theme with me that sometimes (or often?) projects and designs have a long history of development – way longer than I had intended! With things like the Elf Coat, it’s just a matter of the time it takes to create something technically, stitch by stitch.

With things like the Lotus DusterΒ and the new halter top design, it’s more about idea development and waiting until I’ve mustered the required inspiration and skill to pull something off.

Either way, the process of creation over relatively long periods of time causes me to ruminate on the nature of life, and growth. The other side of this of course is the more serious, and scary, concept of death and the hope of rebirth. I had already decided to name this new crochet piece the Valkyrie Top, after those female warrior spirits in viking myth who rode down from the skies to take the slain to their eternal hall.

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Just before I was ready to release this pattern, the theme of death was brought very close to home for me. I can’t say more than this: I hope this new piece makes you and your loved ones feel like the badass female warriors you are – because you all are.

Please look at yourself with love today. Because you are living being on this earth, and that’s magical.

 

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Find the new design now on Ravelry and Etsy ❀

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Manifest your inner amazon with the Valkyrie Top, named after those mythical viking women who rode across the sky to retrieve the souls of warriors and take them to their eternal halls.

This cotton halter top crochet pattern is designed for beauty, comfort, and versatility. The subtle shaping in the cups creates a contour on the bust that prevents slippage, while the criss-cross ties on the back keep your halter top in place without adding pressure on the neck.

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The netted design and accent motif at the top looks great layered under light summer clothing or all by itself, and the simple shell bottom border is easy to extend for more coverage. Includes sizes Small (Cup sizes A/B), Medium (Cup sizes B/C) and Large (Cup sizes D/DD)!

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This digital PDF crochet pattern provides stitch-by-stitch written instructions that include references to 50+ full-color tutorial photos as well as links to the technique tutorials needed for this design that are provided for free on my blog. Create a unique piece that is both flattering and fun to wear – the Valkyrie Top is your perfect summer accessory to slay in!

Materials:
3.50 mm hook
I Love This Cotton! (#4 weight, 3.5 oz / 100 g, 180 yds) 1,1,2 skeins.
Accent color in #4 weight cotton, about 100-80 yds
Scissors and tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Sizes (approximate):

Small: 21” length, 10” height, Cup sizes A/B
Medium: 21” length, 10” height, Cup sizes B/C
Large: 26” Length, 13” height, Cup size D/DD

~*I offer troubleshooting and pattern help for all of my patterns. All of my paid patterns always come with the right of individual artisans to sell the finished product*~

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That awesome matching macrame pendant and bracelet set is by Selinofos Art – check out their shop on Etsy!

The belt I’m wearing in this shoot is a variation on my Cecilia Skirt Belt pattern using old crochet lace and upcycled leather scraps. I have more pixie skirt style belt ideas and free tutorials in my Pixie Pocket Belt blog series.

I had fun doing this photo shoot, despite the 90 degree weather and the 1 billion per cent humidity! The scenery was epic and I got to incorporate more balance poses which I’ve recently been practicing.

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Damn that wig was making me sweat though πŸ˜€

-MF

Morel Mushroom Pouch

Here in the Midwest the hunt is on for morel mushrooms, the prized wild fungus often referred to as the “steak” of mushrooms. It’s been a great spring for them, with my friends and coworkers reporting big scores – so morels have definitely been on my brain lately. I’ve been making these cute crochet versions, with secret pouches in the stem, for many years now and after seeing so many morels this season I decided to come up with a quick tutorial!

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These cuties are great for storing things like chapstick, pocket money, lighters, or other trinkets inside the hollow stem. They also make great gifts for the woodland mushroom lover ❀

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This project is done in freeform crochet style, meaning that I add random increases, decreases, height changes (from single crochet to half-double or double), and bobbles to make the texture gnarly and womply like a real morel. Here in the tutorial I’ll give the basic structure of the pattern and you can freestyle all the rest!

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Morel Mushroom Pouch

Materials:

3.75 mm crochet hook
20-50 yds #4 worsted weight yarn in two colors
Scissors and tapestry needle

Stem Instructions:

Begin by making a Magic Ring.

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1. 6 single crochet into the ring. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc of the round, pull the ring closed using the yarn tail at the beginning.

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2. 2 sc in each stitch around the circle. Join with a sl st.

If you want a slightly wider stem to fit larger objects, you can repeat Rnd 2.

3. Working in the front loop only (FLO), work one stitch in each stitch around. Here you can start to get funky, with random increases, decreases, height changes, etc. This will be with foot of the stem. Join with a slip stitch in the back loop of the first stitch of the round.

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4. Working in the free back loops of Rnd 2, crochet around. Place freeform stitching around, using bobbles, inc, dec, etc to create texture for your stem.

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Keep the basic stitch count more or less the same and you continue to crochet around. Crochet in the round for as many rows as you like, until your stem is as tall as you want – but remember that the cap will cover some of the stem, so don’t make it too short! I worked 11 rounds, and the finished product is a little stumpy when the cap is pulled all the way down.

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5. Finish the stem by adding the chain loop that the mushroom will hang from – chain 100 or more, then slip stitch on the opposite side of the stem opening. Cut yarn and tie off.

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Cap Instructions:

With your darker color, make a magic ring. 6 single crochet into the ring, then pull the ring a little tighter – but not all the way shut, since you will have to fit the chain through later.

1. (Sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Do not join, but keep working in the round.

2. Using mixed stitches (sc, hdc, dc, clusters, bobbles, etc) – (crochet in the next 2 sts, 2 crochet in the next st) around

3. Using mixed stitches (crochet in the next 3 sts, 2 crochet in the next st) around

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4. Work as many rounds in this manner as you like until your cap is the size you want. Cut yarn and tie off.

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With the lighter colored yarn, join to the surface of the cap by inserting the hook as shown. To make the cap textured, you will work single and half-double crochets just on the surface of the cap by inserting the hook from front to back, then back to front, keeping the yarn held on the front.

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Work stitches on the surface only, changing direction and zig-zagging back and forth. Work from bottom to top, then back down, then back up, etc. Once the entire cap is covered, cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

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Using your hook, pull the chain loop of the stem through the hole in the top of the cap. Slide the cap downΒ  to cover any treasures you can now stow inside!

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I’ve made lots of mushroom pouches, in different varieties including amanitas and jack-o-lanterns. The jack-o-lanterns are particularly cute using glow in the dark yarn – and I have a free crochet tutorial for those too!

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-MF

 

Lotus Hooded Duster

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It’s finally time! I’ve received many requests over the last few years to design a hood for my Lotus Duster free crochet pattern, and it’s been on my to-do list for long enough – today we debut the hood addition to this design! πŸ˜€

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The hood is partially made, then inserted into the main pattern rather than added after the entire thing is finished, so if you are working the Lotus Duster you will be adding the hood after Round 22, then continuing with the main pattern from there and working over the hood brim in addition to the rest of the garment. Also, I made the version pictured here sleeveless (because I wanted to wear it this summer) and I made a few adjustments to the sizing as well, which are explained in the instructions πŸ™‚

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If you like these patterns and want the portable, printable, ad-free version, good news! The Hood Tutorial is now included as a bonus PDF along with the PDF version of the Lotus Mandala Duster pattern, available in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Pattern Store! And don’t forget my offer for bundled patterns with my new pattern discount codes:
15% off of 2: MF15OFF
20% off of 3-4: MF20OFF
25% off of 5-6: MF25OFF
30% off of 7+: MF30OFF

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The pattern given for the Hood is more of a tutorial and doesn’t include specific stitch counts like the main Lotus Duster pattern does. I also used a random mishmash of yarns, some slightly bigger than I would normally use for this design, which makes a difference in sizing and gauge, etc – so I left the hood instructions open with modifications for individual gauge and preference. I considered using the standard yarn that I use for the main pattern, but I just really wanted to make this crazy thing using all these crazy yarns!

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The majority of the yarns used in this example are either upcycled by me from old sweaters (see my detailed tutorial on how to recycle sweater yarn) or rescued from the thrift store. If you liked this project, give a girl a fave over on the Ravelry project page for this design!

Oh, and those leafy wrap bracelets I am wearing are from another FREE crochet pattern of mine, the Ivy Crown garland.

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Lotus Hooded Duster

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Materials: 5.50 mm hook
Extra yarn – I would estimate the hood addition requires 300-500 yards of yarn more than the standard pattern. Please refer to the main pattern for more info on materials needed, gauge, etc.

Notes: As mentioned, I made a few tweaks to the sizing of this sleeveless duster to get the look I wanted. I started working the main pattern in size Small, then added length and width by working some of the extra rows suggested in the Large size – but not all of them, so the size came out more like a Medium.

Instructions

Work the Lotus Duster 2.0 pattern through to Round 21.

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On Rnd 22 I made an adjustment to the amount of double crochet that I worked across the chain loop that creates the armhole opening.

22. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9, 13 times**. 1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 63, 65 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 460, 488 sts”

Instead of working 1 dc in each of the chain stitches made for the armhole loops (making 30 total dc over each armhole) I worked 20 total dc into the armhole loop itself, not the stitches. This means that the stitches can stretch across the loop made by the chains and are not anchored to the stitches themselves – to do this, just insert the hook underneath the chain loop to work your stitches across (do not insert your hook into the actual stitches, just the space underneath the chain).

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I forgot to get an actual picture at this stage, so this one is from a little later in the pattern. Still, check out how the stitches are arranged across the armhole loop space – this accomplishes a slight tightening at the bust and shoulder area and makes room for the extra draping material that will be added by the presence of the hood. If these step seems confusing or you are having trouble with sizing, it’s 100% okay to skip this step – it’s not a crucial adjustment. I just made this change because it helps keep all that pretty lacey material tucked around the shoulders for a better fit.

So with that in mind, finish Round 22 as written with or without the armhole adjustments. Once Rnd 22 is complete, set the main body of the duster aside to begin the hood.

Hood Instructions

Using the 5.50 mm hook and your yarn of choice, Chain 35.

The length you chain depends on your gauge – if you hold the chain starting at the nape of the neck, it should be long enough to reach the back of your head. If 35 is too short, chain more.

Row 1: Dc in the 4th ch from hook, ch 1, sk next st. (Dc, ch 1, sk next st) 14 times, or however many times you need to reach the second to last stitch of the chain. Dc, ch 1 in next st. In the last st of the chain, work (Dc, ch 1) 3 times. Rotate the piece so that you are working into the bottom of the chain stitches, creating a chain with stitches on both sides. Dc, ch 1 in the next st, sk next st. (Dc, ch 1, sk next st) 14 times. Dc in next st. Dc in the final st.

Row 2:  Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch 1), turn. (Dc in next ch -1 space, ch 1) 16 times. (Dc, ch 1) twice in ea of the next 2 ch-1 spaces. (Dc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1) 16 times. Dc in the final dc of the previous row.

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The central chain at the back of the hood
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The instructions in bold create two increase spaces at the tip of one end of the piece. Through the next part, you will work the same kind of increase in each of these two increase spaces on every row – so it’s helpful to mark them!

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Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn. (Dc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1) 17 times. (Dc, ch 1) twice in the next space. Dc, ch 1 in the next space. (Dc, ch 1) twice in the next space. (Dc in the next space, ch 1) 16 times. 1 dc in the final ch-1 space, 1 dc in the final dc of the previous row.

Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch 1). (Dc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1) 18 times. (Dc, ch 1) twice in the next space. Dc, ch 1 in each of the next 2 spaces. (Dc, ch 1) twice in the next space. (Dc in the next space, ch 1) 18 times.  Dc in the final dc of the previous row.

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Side profile of the hood addition, folded in half – at 9 rows

Keep working in this same manner, placing increases at the two increase points on every row, until your hood has 11 total rows (or until the hood is tall enough to reach the top of your head).

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The next few rows skip the increases to add depth to the hood without adding more height. You can repeat the next two rows as many times as you like to get the depth of hood that you want/need, but remember that since there are still 15 rounds left in the main pattern that will add height and depth to the hood, so you really don’t need this part to be a fully functioning hood yet.

Row 12: Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch 1). (Dc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1) in each space across. Dc in the final dc of the previous row.

Row 13: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). (Dc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1) across. 1 dc in the final ch space, 1 dc in the final dc of the previous row.

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Once your hood addition is completed, cut your yarn and tie off. Now we are going to  attach the hood to the work-in-progress main body of the duster.

My hood addition when finished by itself is about 20″ across the bottom, and 12″ at the highest point. 

Attaching the Hood

On the main duster, use a stitch marker to mark the central dc between the armholes. I do this by counting how many v-stitches are in the row below, then finding the central v-stitch or space between v-stitches – the double crochet above will be the central point. Align the hood’s flat edge with this point, matching the end of the foundation chain to the middle point marked on the duster.

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Attach yarn, insert hook through both the vest and the hood at the central point. Work a sc in ea dc through the hood, working 2 attaching stitches for the side of every DC at the end of a row. This was 25 stitches for me to get to the end of the hood.

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Half the hood is now attached – now we start on the other side and attach the opposite half.

Count out the amount of sts needed for the other side. Cut yarn and reattach at this point, then work toward the central point using the same strategy to attach.

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Of course, you can always just whip stitch the hood onto the main duster if using a crocheted method of attaching seems like too much bother. I prefer a stitched seam here because the hood is going to be resisting against the weight of the rest of the duster (which is not light) and I want the seam to be strong and not stretch too much.

Once your hood is attached in whichever fashion you prefer, cut your yarn and tie off. It’s time to pick back up where we left off on the main body of the duster at Round 23. Only now, we will be working all the rest of the rounds across the brim of the hood as well as around the main body.

“23. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (Sk next three sts, 1 dc in the next st. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st) 114, 121 times. Sk next three sts, dc in the next st, ch 1. Hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 to join.”

Round 23 creates V-stitches all around the garment – to work the first round that includes the hood, work a V-stitch over the arm opening stitches as  instructed…

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Then work a V-stitch in every other ch-1 space around the brim of the hood addition.

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Continue the round across the entire brim of the hood, and then around the main body as well, using the instructions given. Remember that because of the hood addition, your stitch counts will not be the same as given in the main pattern.

Once Round 23 is complete, all remaining rounds can be worked as written in the main Lotus Duster pattern, just working around the entire body including the hood! One more consideration is the half-rounds at Rnd 35 and 36 – because you have added a hood, you’ll have to recalculate what amount of stitches constitutes the top half of the garment and then work the half-rounds across that amount of stitches, not the amount given in the main pattern.

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To calculate this number, count the total number of stitches in Rnd 34, then divide that number by half. Beginning with the Rnd 34 join at the side of the duster, count out your V-stitches that equal half of the total. Mark the final stitch of this set, then work Row 35 and 36 only on that portion following the instructions given. For my duster vest, half of the total equalled 224 V-stitches.

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Once the garment in completed, I cut the yarn and wove in the ends. I added the slip stitching necessary to anchor the ties as shown in the main pattern, then added two braided ties on each side.

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Since I left this version sleeveless, I finished the armholes with a row of dc around the inside.

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I really love this particular version of the Lotus Duster – the lack of sleeves makes it a good garment for warmer weather, but the hood and the length make it mysterious and costume-y enough to be a stunning festival piece! In my tradition of naming these after female singer songwriters, I’m calling this baby “Florence.” ❀

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The polymer clay horns and woodland tree spirit pendant I am wearing in this shoot came from my amazing friend Wendy Davies from Dark Pony Art – please check out her art and give her a like on her Facebook Page!

If you like my designs, you can head over to my Facebook Page too and hit that follow button!

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As always, I’m filled with gratitude for everyone who likes, comments, shares, and creates my designs! I can’t help but remember a time when where I am at now seemed beyond my wildest imaginings ❀ And it’s all possible because of you magical beings out there who support me, thank you so much ❀ I am honored to create with you!

-MF

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