I’ve written many times over the years about my favorite winter hat design, the Gnome Toboggan, a pattern which is available for free here on my blog or as an ad-free, portable PDF download. I love this design so much that I even made a stitch-by-stitch video pattern for it! You see, just about every winter I end up making one of these quick, squishy babies to pop on while jogging or exploring… but this winter I had an idea for a variation. Making this simple textured winter hat into a fuzzy bonnet seemed like a great twist, and conveniently uses up small balls of spare faux fur yarn, something I have plenty of scraps of left over from making fuzzy ushankas, shawls, and swishy coats.
Luckily, creating this new variation turned out to be pretty simple! Here’s my quick tutorial for making your own Gnome Bonnet from the original Gnome Toboggan pattern 🙂
Materials: For this project you’ll need everything in the original materials list in the pattern (1 skein Lion Brand Scarfie, 5.50 mm hook, scissors, tapestry needle) as well as < 10-15 yards of Lion Brand Go For Faux Thick & Quick and a 9.00 mm needle for that yarn. Faux Fur pompom is super cute, but not required!
Please check the original pattern for details on the yarn weight and yardage if needed, as well as for making your gauge 🙂
Finished Measurements (approximate): Adult Large: 24″ brim, 11.5″ from tip to brim Adult Small: 22″ brim, 11.5″ from tip to brim
Instructions:
Follow the original instructions for the Gnome Toboggan from Round 1 through Round 12 – you can work Rnd 2 or skip it for a more rounded top, as noted in pattern. For the Gnome Bonnets pictured, the green example skips Rnd 2 for a rounded top while the purple and pink examples have included Rnd 2 for a more pointed top.
After Rnd 12, you have the option to add one more round in which the stitch count increases. For an adult size bonnet I preferred to work the Round 13 increases to make the Large version of the hat, so that the sides of the finished hat would have plenty of room to hand down around the head for warmth. The green and purple versions of the bonnet pictured are made this way, while the pink version is made without the Rnd 13 increases – a size small in the original pattern.
Work rounds 14-16 as normal. Now that we have some length on the top of the hat, we are going to switch from working in joined rounds, to working in rows back and forth.
Rnd 17: Ch 2 (does not count as first stitch), turn. FPDC in the very first st. BPDC in the next st. (FPDC in the next st, BPDC in the next st) around until final stitch is worked. Do not join.
Pictured above: Chaining 2 to turn (1st image) then inserting hook through the very first stitch to make the first FPDC (2nd image)
Rnd 18: Ch 2, turn. FPDC in the very first st. BPDC in the next st. (FPDC in the next st, BPDC in the next st) across.
Pictured above: Working FPDC,BPDC repeats across (1st image), at the end insert the hook as for BPDC on the final stitch, with hook emerging behind the ch-2 turning chain (2nd image). Complete last BPDC (3rd image)
Rnds 19-23: Rpt Rnd 18.
You can add a few more extra rows here if you want to get more length – but there’s still the faux fur border which adds about 2″. Once you have the hat the length you like, cut the main yarn and tie off.
Border Row 1: With the 9.00 mm hook and the Go For Faux, join new yarn in the space after the first post stitch of the round below. Ch 2 – counts as beginning dc. (Skip 2 post dc, 1 dc in the next space between post stitches) repeat across.
Pictured above: Ch-2 to start (1st image), insert hook in the spaces BETWEEN stitches, skipping 2 post stitches every repeat (2nd & 3rd images)
If you want a stiffer brim and have enough extra faux fur yarn, I recommend making Border Row 2 – but it’s optional!
Border Row 2: Turn and slip stitch in each stitch, keeping tension even. Cut faux fur yarn and tie off.
Weave in all ends. If using a faux fur bobble, attach to the top of the hat in the first round (mine come with an elastic loop I use to tie on).
Finally I measure out 28-30 strands of the main yarn, about 32 inches in length. Separate into 2 bundles and double over each bundle.
Using the 9.00 mm hook, insert at the corner edge of the border rows from bottom to top. Hook the middle of the strand bundle through and pull so that the bundle has a loop coming out underneath the edge of the hat.
Tuck the loose strand end of the bundle through this loop and pull the bundle tight. Separate into 3 roughly equal sections of strands and braid. Repeat on the opposite side with 2nd bundle.
Once I braid my bundles, I use whichever strand at the end is longest to wrap around the braid-end and tie, tucking the strand back inside the bundle afterward. Voila! The CUTEST gnome bonnet you ever espied.
Hello from the Morale Fiber Headquarters! Back in the fall of last year when Lion Brand discontinued one of their most unique and beautiful yarns, I knew I’d have to do a hunt for something adequate to replace it. Not only do I use Shawl in a Ball / Shawl in a Cake as the recommended yarn for two of my best patterns, the Priestess Coat and the Embla Vest, it’s also a go-to favorite for making some of my other designs as well – such as the Lotus Mandala Vest. I also thought this would be a good opportunity to write another field guide – this time focusing on how to find the best yarn substitutes!
The Embla VestThe Lotus Vest (with Cardigan Sleeve Add-on)
I started searching around, using some of my yarn knowledge acquired through years and years of using substitute yarns and getting mixed results. A lot of this yarn know-how is detailed in my extensive post about crochet gauge and the different characteristics of fiber and yarn construction, and in that post I do mention Shawl in a Ball specifically. You see, it’s just such a strange yarn! Despite being a #4 weight, the yarn is relatively thin and sleek, with the fluffy fibers that cling to the cotton strand core making it lofty and soft too. It often works up much smaller in gauge than other #4 weight yarns, but it has a heaviness and drape to it because of the denser cotton core construction.
Not to mention the colors – gorgeous. Truly a yarn I will miss. I may have bought a lot of it for my stash when I realized it was in danger of disappearing forever 😉
After several fruitless trips to the big box hobby stores, my search for adequate substitutes led me to my favorite bulk yarn supplier, Ice Yarns. Their huge variety of yarns was just the hunting ground I needed, and I ordered a big bag of different skeins, ready to test them out against Shawl in a Ball. I set the big bag aside, fully intending to create a new yarn unboxing video for this little venture. And then I procrastinated until my nice fat package from Ice Yarns had been staring balefully at me from my office corner for months. But now, I finally conquered making that unboxing video, as well as swatching all my samples of yarn to create this how-to guide for finding the right substitute yarn!
Anyway, time to get to the nitty gritty, eh? First up is the unboxing video itself, to introduce all of our candidates. Then, we’ll go over the details of each yarn’s weight and construction, along with my test gauge swatches, and talk about which yarns are the best substitute for Shawl in a Ball, as well as the finer points of what makes a good yarn substitute in general! Hopefully this guide will provide some answers on how to search for the right substitute yarn no matter what you’re looking to replace 🙂
Ice Yarns Unboxing
The Swatches:
Target Yarn: Shawl in a Ball (also includes Shawl in a Cake) #4 weight category 61% Cotton, 34% Acrylic, 5% Other Fiber 150 g / 440 meters OR 5.3 oz / 481 yards
For this exercise in yarn substitution, I’m searching specifically for something besides Shawl in a Ball (SIAB) to make my Priestess Coat pattern with, and so all the swatches are made using the stitch for that pattern (Tunisian Simple Stitch) and aiming for the target gauge for that project using the recommended hook size (6.5 mm). All swatches were made in one sitting for consistency and have all been blocked by pinning them out so that the stitches are fully stretched to allow accurate measurement.
Of course, all of these swatch measurements are dependent on my own unique tension when I crochet. ALL gauge measurements are going to depend on each individual crocheter’s tension, and so measurements will vary from person to person even when using the same materials. For more information on understanding how to navigate gauge, be sure to check out my Crochet Gauge guide!
When searching for potential yarns to order for this exercise, I focused on finding skeins with a comparable weight (grams or ounces) to length (meters or yards) ratio. If I found a similar ratio, I would then consider yarn structure and fiber content. Here’s how my four samples performed…
Ice Yarns Cakes Mohair
#2 weight category
20% Mohair, 20% Wool, 60% Acrylic
150 g / 810 meters OR 5.3 oz / 885 yards
In the unboxing video, I couldn’t remember if I had bought this yarn for the substitute search or not, since the weight category was #2 and I’m trying to substitute for a #4 – it seemed like I should have stayed within 1 category grade! However, I remembered after filming that my original intention WAS to double this yarn and see if a 2-stranded swatch would compare to my single strand swatch of the desired #4 weight.
Just for fun, though, I swatched it with both the single strand, and the 2-strand 🙂 In the above picture, the 2-strand is on the top of the image, and the 1 strand is on the bottom. As you can see, 2 strands makes it much bigger and the 1 strand swatch is the dinkiest of all the swatches.
Target Gauge: 7 stitches & 6 rows = 2 inches
Gauge for 1 strand swatch: 8 stitches & 8 rows = 2 inches (pictures above – too small!)
This swatch comes in too small, as predicted. At a full 2 rows OVER what it normally takes to get the correct height for the gauge, I wouldn’t attempt to use this yarn single-strand for the project. While it may be possible to size the hook up a few times to enlarge the stitches enough to meet the gauge, I’d predict that the fabric would not be dense enough with such a large hook to achieve the right look for the garment. In other words, too much space between stitches would cause the fabric to look too airy and “lacey.”
Gauge for 2 strand swatch: 7 stitches & 6 rows = 2 inches (ON TARGET! pictures below)
Doubling up the strands for this yarn worked! This is also what I predicted according to the math (the length per gram was almost double the yarn I was trying to match, therefore doubling the yarn produced similar gauge). While the gauge measurements match, the swatch of fabric itself is thicker and fuller feeling than the original SIAB swatch, so the resulting Priestess Coat would be a little denser, but it should work beautifully and be warmer than the original design, a plus for many since the SIAB Priestess was created more for style than for warmth 😉
While this yarn worked up slightly smaller than the desired measurements, I would still consider this a good substitute. To make it meet gauge, I could go up in hook size one or two steps, or I could work with my physical hand tension until I’m used to making the stitches a little less tightly, using the same hook size the pattern recommends. The fabric density and the overall feel of the fabric is a close match to the original SIAB, because of the similar strand structure I mentioned in the video, so visually this yarn performs well.
It’s important to factor in that gauge isn’t always going to translate *exactly* from swatch to project. Especially in the case of larger garments, the extra fabric weight and long stretches of the same stitch motions may end up loosening your tension FOR you. It’s not the safest gamble to depend on, but it happens! Still, I recommend getting your gauge as close as possible on the swatch, and worrying about how it translates later.
Sorry for the black on black on black. I know it’s not the most visible thing in the world, but turn your screen brightness up and bear with me, because this substitute is great! As I mentioned in the video, I am specifically hoping for a good substitute in black shades so I can make a witchy, raven-y Priestess Coat – and Lorena fits the bill. At just a fraction of a row too short for the gauge height, I can probably rely on either changing my manual tension to fix this, or using my knowledge of the pattern to add extra rows if/where necessary.
The fabric density of this swatch is surprising – at #2 weight I wouldn’t expect it to be such a good match. However, the yarn has lots of plies that come together to form a bouncy, rounded yarn that is also light and sleek, so the stitch structure is delicate enough to still have space between stitches while also looking substantial and not too “lacey” or flimsy.
This yarn also has good elasticity, which leads me to suspect I won’t have to worry about that extra .5 of a row gap in gauge measurement. This is because the overall stretch of the fabric, once all the weight of the project is exerted, might stretch the stitches enough that the gauge makes target. Again, it’s best not to rely solely on such an imprecise prediction, and getting exact gauge is best – but it can happen!
I’m so glad I got this measurement for Bamboo SoftAir, because it helps demonstrate exactly the point I’m trying to make here, which is that weight categories aren’t everything! The gauge reading for this #4 weight yarn is pretty much the same as for the #2 weight yarn Lorena, which we just sampled. Weird, right? Goes to show that there are really so many variables when choosing yarns such as structure, fiber content, number of plies, and all of that on TOP of each individual crafter’s tension. No wonder the number one question I get is about yarn substitutions! It can be a lot to parse through.
While the gauge reading is good, I’m not thrilled with the way the fabric looks. Compared to the SIAB, the fabric is much denser and woollier, creating an overall stiffer swatch than I want. The thickness would be great for someone looking to make a very warm coat, but one of the key design characteristics of my Priestess pattern is the way the loose structure of the stitched fabric creates a lovely swing in the diamond gore inserts at the hem. I could definitely make this coat with this yarn, but the drape would not look and move the same!
Further Tools and Resources
I have to admit that when it came to hunting the yarn for this test, I did it the hard way! I wanted to really get my hands into the process so I could explain it in detail. Fortunately there are great resources out there that allow you to skip the process of calculating the gram-to-meter-to-whatever ratio of every single skein candidate:
Yarnsub.com – This is my instant go-to database for substituting any yarn! Just type in the brand name and yarn style of the yarn you need to substitute, and the huge database will give you match results based on the same parameters discussed here – weight category, gauge, fiber content, ect. The results pop up by nearness of match, and you can filter by type of fiber and cost. Here’s an example search with SIAB already plugged in! One drawback of this database is that of course, there are tons of yarns not included (I’ve never seen an Ice Yarn pop up despite the fact that they often make very good dupes of popular hobby store brands). But one can’t expect every yarn in the yarniverse to be in there, so it’s still a great starting point.
Ravelry.com – Ravelry still reigns supreme in my eyes as the most useful yarn-crafting network on the internet and once you move past their slightly-outdated webpage formats it’s easy to see why. For every pattern information page, there’s a tab marked “Yarn Ideas” that will pull up all the yarns used by crafters who have made the project and logged it on Ravelry.
I knew before I clicked it that one of the entries under Yarn Ideas would be Lion Brand Mandala, a DK weight acrylic cake yarn. So far this is the substitute I have recommended most for this project, as I’ve gotten good feedback from crocheters saying they really liked this project in that yarn 🙂 Hobbii Universe XL was a surprise though – and I really would love to try that one too!
You can also look at the “Projects” tab to see all the projects made from a particular pattern and get a better idea of how different yarns look in the overall finished project.
If you’ve read this far, I’m proud of you. This is next-level stuff! Understanding the finer details of yarn planning is so essential to creating projects you’re going to love for years to come, so I hope my perspectives have been useful or at the very last, encourage asking the right questions when you’re on the hunt.
As for my search for a great yarn substitution for a Raven Priestess Coat project, I think I’ve settled on a combination: the true black Lorena for the main body of the coat, and the SIAB Cleansing Quartz for the diamond panels at the bottom. We may grab some Bamboo SoftAir for a pared-back trim (instead of the bulky fur) , although I think it would look great without any fancy trim at all so we’ll see. Check back in a few years when my procrastinating self is likely to have it done 😉
Today’s offering is a free crochet tutorial for a peek-a-boo top that stars a sleek triangular cutout in the middle of the bust, a perfect silhouette in which to place fun features like crochet shapes or dangling decorations – or just let your natural charms show! I used my favorite glow in the dark yarn to create a glowing alien head for this top.
The free Delta Top Tutorial will be available as a PDF exclusively in my Ko-Fi Shop, and I’m doing an introductory deal for this design – “Pay What You Want”! While the free version is exactly the same as the PDF copy, this design can be purchased as the portable, printable, ad-free PDF securely through my Ko-Fi Shop for whatever price you think is fair (starting at a $1 minimum) <3 Gratuity and gratitude! <3
P.S – I’m adding ALL my halter top/bikini/crop top patterns to my Ko-Fi shop along with the Delta Top!
Delta Top
Materials: 3.50 mm hook #4 100% cotton yarn, 1-2 skeins depending on size #4 accent color yarn (optional), or charm to feature in cutout (optional) Scissors, tapestry needle
Gauge: Can vary a bit, but you don’t want it too loose! I aim for about 4 stitches and 3 rows = 1″
Cutout Cups
This cup design uses skipped stitches at the end and beginning of the rows on one side only to create half of the triangle cutout shape featured in the middle of the bust. The basis of this cup is the same as for the teal cups made with the written pattern and video tutorial in my free Basic Bikini Cup Tutorial.These are the cups styled with the “HDC, Foundation 10 sts, +2 / (1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc) increases” shaping from that post, so if you need more help with the first 3 rows of the cup, refer to the first video of that post!
Foundation Row: Sk first 2 ch sts. 1 hdc in the 3rd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 9 ch sts. – 10 hdc.
Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. In the end of the foundation row, working into the side of the 2 chains left over from the foundation, work (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc). Rotate the row so as to work down the opposite side, into the initial foundation chain (working the bottom loops). 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts. -24 hdc
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count), turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 hdc. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. – 28 hdc
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, leaving the last stitch unworked. – 31 hdc
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Skip very first stitch. 1 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts. – 34 hdc
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 17 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts, leaving the last stitch unworked. – 37 hdc
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Skip first stitch. 1 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 20 sts. – 40 hdc
Continue adding rows in this manner until the cups are your preferred size. Cut yarn and tie off, repeat cup pattern for 2nd cup.
Bottom Band
Next, align the two cups and begin working across the bottom of the first cup, placing two hdc in the side of each row. Once you have reached the cutout (the shortened rows), you will make a chain length and skip both cutout parts entirely.
My general formula for how many to chain here is to take the number of rows skipped for the cutout on one cup (in this example it is 7 rows), then multiply times 2 (because hdc are the height of 1-2 stitches depending on gauge). This equals 14 in my example. So if each cup cutout is about 14 stitches long, the total skip length would be about 28 stitches. The length of the actual chain made here will depend on cup size – if you have a larger bust in relation to your underbust, you’ll want to chain fewer stitches, if you have a flatter bust in relation to your underbust, chain more. So since my total skipped number was 28, minus some difference to account for my bust size (B cup), I ended up chaining 22 stitches.
Once you have made your chain length, resume working hdc into the non-shortened row sides on the bottom of the next cup until reaching the end.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn and work a row of hdc across the hdc and the chain stitches worked on the last row. Work 1 stitch in each stitch.
Rows 3 – ??: Ch 2, turn and hdc in each hdc across.
Keep adding hdc rows until the band is as wide as you like.
Side Strap
Without cutting yarn, rotate your top to begin working on the side of the cup. Work your first side strap row going toward the tip of the bikini cup.
Row 1: Chain 2. 2 hdc in each row end, 1 hdc in each stitch, until you have worked about 1/3 of the length of the side. For my tops that’s about 13-16 hdc stitches usually! This is the base of your tapered side strap.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, skip very first stitch. 1 hdc in the next st and in each stitch across. This ends the row on the bottom edge of the bikini top, which will stay flat and even.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. 1 hdc in each stitch across until the last stitch. Skip this final stitch. This ends the row on the inner part of the side strap, which will taper by skipping the last stitch and the first stitch of the next row on this side only, as we did with the cups.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, skip very first stitch. 1 hdc in every other stitch across.
Repeat these last two rows until you have only 2-3 stitches remaining. Cut yarn and tie off, then attach yarn at the other side and repeat for 2nd side strap. After 2nd side strap is complete, you can leave the yarn attached until you’ve decided how to compose your back & neck ties.
Ties and Trim
I’ve experimented with a pretty large variety of ways to tie crocheted halter and bikini tops, ever seeking to discover the most comfortable method so that my pieces are wearable! I’ve done criss-cross ties, lacing, racerback and T-shaped backs, wide straps and small. It seems that which ties work depends heavily on the age and body and preference of the individual – so I’ll keep coming up with more! 🙂
The Glow-Alien Delta Top featured on my friend Daisey combined tie straps in the torso with a t-shaped back closely modeled off of my Acanthus Top back design, but I didn’t have nearly enough pattern development to outline that style here in the tutorial so we’ll be doing something simpler – but I did want to include the different references in case you feel like freestyling.
The Alien Delta top in green (above) featured wider straps that meet and connect at the back, much like the Acanthus Top, with the side strap ties to thread through. The Acanthus Top (below) uses a longer, smaller criss-cross weave to connect the sides and straps.
My Valkyrie Halter features criss-cross ties at the shoulders that lace into loops on the sides, for a very adjustable fit that doesn’t put too much pressure on the back of the neck. The Kismet Halter Top, another totally free crochet pattern on my blog, features a thick side band with criss-cross lacing.
Yet another option, outlined in my Sol Halter Top customization tutorial, is to create several chain loops toward the end of the side strap, then weave the fastening cord back and forth (the Valkryie, above left, does this too). Instead of single crocheting across the entire side, I create a series of loops (about ch 15-20 sized) intermittently. I normally do 2-3 loops, about 3-4 single crochets apart.
However, despite all these options the instructions I’ll be using here are for the most simple ties. So since I am already at the end of my side strap I will proceed to chain 75-125 (depending on size), then slip stitch back down that chain length.
Once back at the beginning, sc on the row edges of the side strap working toward the tip of the cup. Since each hdc is approximately 2 stitches tall, work 2 stitches into each row side, then proceed to sc into the stitches of the cup itself, working toward the increase tip of the bikini at the top of the bust.
When reaching the ch-1 space at the tip of the cup, 1 sc into the ch-1 space. Ch 75 -100 (depending on size), slip stitch back down chain. Continue to sc on the other side of the cup, working toward the center of the bust. Once reaching the tapered edge of the cup where the cutout begins, move to the second cup and work a sc into the first stitch at the edge of the cutout at the other side. Continue working the sc edging into the cup, making a matching tie at the tip of the second cup as you did for the first.
(I actually don’t have my second side strap yet in this picture but you will so ignore that 😉 )
Work down the last side of the cup and the row sides of the tapered side strap, then work a final tie of 75-150 (depending on size) for the second side tie. Cut yarn and tie off, weave in all ends.
Alien Head
When I decided this top needed a nice celestial visitor made of my favorite glow-in-the-dark yarn, I tried to think of what sort of shape would be easiest to create for the right silhouette and size of the triangle cutout. Then it hit me – the easiest shape is the one that I already have written out and video recorded! 😉
I used my little Avocado Face Scrubby tutorial to create the alien head using the same sized hook and my glow-in-the-dark yarn held doubled up to make it more similar to worsted weight. I used the same color for all rows, then added one more round of single crochets after the tutorial ends (skipping the loop at the top, of course). Easy! Well, it saved ME a lot of work anyway 😉
After completing my alien (or pig snout?) I added little black slashes for eyes and sewed it into the triangular cutout of my Delta top using scrap yarn and yarn needle. Once I was finished, I weaved in all the ends and my top was ready for takeoff!It really does GLOW! Sadly, this yarn appears to have been discontinued.
Of course, I had to make a few more versions with different fun additions to the peek-a-boo cutout – my next variation is Legend of Zelda inspired, using triangles to create a Triforce (of sorts):
Next time I’ll vary my stitch height to take away some of the roundedness of those triangles, as they didn’t translate as Triforce-y as I wanted them to. Still pretty though!
Next I tried a dangling charm, having had this rad piratey looking medallion sitting in my findings pile and awaiting the perfect frame…
Of course, it’s really cute just as a cutout top that shows off your natural charms! In the plain Delta Top below, I used a slip stitch around the edge of the cutout triangle to give it a smoother, more finished edge once the top was complete.
I hope this tutorial inspired you to try some of my halter top and bikini tutorials – crochet bikinis and halters have been some of my favorite projects since I started learning to crochet my own clothing, and I’ve learned a lot through experimentation which is easy since these projects don’t take too much time! If you liked the Delta Top, be sure to check out my other crochet halter top tutorials and patterns 🙂 Thanks for visiting!
My most recently finished version of the Pixie Pocket Belt design is all about bright, sunny yellows and saturated greens! Each of these belts I make are inspired by plants, crocheting a richly textured piece with fiber art elements fit to be worn by the spirits of the plants themselves. “Ruta” is the name of this swishy skirt belt, after Ruta Graveolans (Common Rue), a plant which is highly regarded in Italian folk magic as an herb, a medicine, and a ward against evil.
I followed the original totally free Pixie Belt Tutorial Series to create this one, looking over my PDF version and updating it with my new contact info and a few other layout changes – and as I’ve been doing with these pattern updates, the newly smarted-up PDF version of this pattern is going to become available on special sale exclusively through my Ko-Fi shop for only $5 – but hurry, this one’s only up on special sale until the end of May!
I think it must be pixie belt season, as I’ve been seeing a lot of pixie belts in the wild web – cute ones, freaky ones, even a BEETLEJUICE themed one! These are super inspiring and I can’t get enough of seeing people’s projects – it’s like getting to crochet vicariously 😉
My favorite details on this Ruta belt are the sweet leafy ties on the front of the belt (used my original leaf wrap pattern for free on my blog), the soft deep yellow flower petals on the velveteen drawstring bag pocket, and the little metal charm centered on the front of the circular pouch. The charm is called a cimaruta, which means “sprig of rue” and it is a traditional charm used in Italian witchcraft containing symbols like birds, moons, and keys that is used to ward off the evil eye.
Soft yellow and beige cotton and linen plain weave strips were ripped for the ragtag skirt, combined with strips of ribbon, a few bells here and there, and some extra yellow velvet ruffle. The matching, detachable mushroom pouch has a hidden pocket in the stem and can be worn around the neck to hold useful things like lighters, chapstick, money, etc! I do love the little yellow spots on this one – I have a totally free tutorial for several different kinds of small crochet mushroom pouches – check out the Morel, the Amanita, and the Jack-O-Lantern tutorials I have for free 🙂
Oh, and if you like all the free tutorials and whatnot, but don’t need to buy my PDF copies, perhaps you’d be willing to support me by contributing to my Tip Jar? It’s always super appreciated and some very lovely donations have been coming in lately <3 They really do help me keep making art and sharing it with the world, I am so grateful for everyone who has already contributed 🙂
Oh, one more thing! The super AMAZING green flare pants with the mushroom print I am wearing, along with the comfy yellow halter top with moon phases, are both from the incredible apparel company Purusha People – please check them out, their products have quickly become staples in my wardrobe!
So approximately 8 billion years ago, my very first post here on Morale Fiber Blog was the free pattern for the Lotus Mandala Throw Blanket. It’s a doily-esque scrappy project that I originally designed in 2014, published for the first time in 2015, and is the predecessor to my now-popular Lotus Vest and Lotus Duster wearable designs.
I did want to bring this throw blanket back and clean it up a little, since the design and the written instructions for this mandala motif have evolved a lot since I first published them, and yet I’ve never revisited the original blanket pattern!
While updating the instructions of course I felt that I should offer a PDF copy for those who want the portable, printable, ad-free instructions – that’s available in my pattern stores now on Ravelry or Etsy 🙂 HOWEVER – You can get this PDF for a special lower price of $5 USD for a limited time only in my new Ko-Fi Shop!Ko-Fi doesn’t take a percentage fee from my sales, allowing me to offer better prices; I’ve begun offering special deals to encourage people to explore that new shop front – more to come in the future! The special Ko-Fi shop sale will last through to the end of March 🙂
Lotus Mandala Throw Blanket
Materials: 5.5 mm hook Worsted weight yarns of various colors – approximately 900-1000 yards
Gauge – 3.5” in diameter after Rnd 3
Finished Measurements (approximate): 54” diameter
Pictured above: I always use an assortment of worsted weight acrylics for this project – it’s designed for scrap use, so have some fun with color! 🙂
Special Stitches:
Dc with last loop on the hook: YO once, insert hk into next st/sp, draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 lps on the hook. 2 lps remain on the hook (1 original and 1 left unworked from the dc stitch).
4-DC Cluster – Work 4 dc stitches, keeping the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 5 loops on the hook.
Shell – 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc worked into the same space
Treble 3 Together (tr3tog) – (YO twice and insert hook into indicated stitch, draw up a loop, YO and draw through 2 loops twice). This leaves 1 remaining loop on the hook from the treble just worked and 1 remaining loop from the previous stitch. Repeat within parentheses 2 more times – 3 trebles with 3 extra loops on the hook made. YO and draw through all loops on the hook – tr3tog made.
Scallop – 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc worked into the same stitch
Color changes: This pattern is not written for specific color changes. To change colors, simply cut the yarn and tie off in the final stitch of the round you wish to change on. Rejoin the new color in the same stitch and carry on with the instructions.
Chain and Stitch Joins: Certain areas of this pattern use a Chain and Stitch Join to close the round, which consists of a number of chain stitches combined with a regular crochet stitch to form the final chain space in an openwork design. This is done to place the hook properly to begin the next round in the middle of the final chain space. For a more detailed tutorial on this type of join, see my free resource here: Chain and Stitch Join Tutorial
Related projects: This project is based on the Lotus Mandala motif, which also occurs in several other garment patterns of mine which are available for free or as a portable, printable, ad-free PDF! You can find more on those designs here: Lotus Mandala Duster Lotus Mandala Vest Filigree Lace Cap
Rnd 1: 8 sc into the ring, tighten. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round. – 8 sc
Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sc, ch 1) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-4. – 8 dc + 8 spaces
Rnd 3: Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 1 – counts as first dc with last loop on the hook. Dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 6 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin your next round (See Notes – Chain and Stitch Joins) – 8 clusters + 8 spaces
Rnd 4: Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on hk, dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. 16 clusters + 16 spaces
Rnd 5: Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on the hk. Dc into the same space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster into the next ch-2 space, ch 3) 14 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster to join. – 16 clusters + 16 spaces
Rnd 6: Ch 3 – counts as first dc, 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3. (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 16 sets of 3 dc + 16 spaces
Rnd 7: Sl st in the top of the next dc. (Sk next dc. In the next ch-3 space work 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc – shell made. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc) 16 times. Join with a sl st in first sl st. – 16 shells
Rnd 8: Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch 3, sc in the top of next tr stitch in the middle of the shell, ch 3. (Dc in the next sl st between shells, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 32 spaces
Rnd 9: Ch 3. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next sc and draw up a lp, (YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk) twice – one treble stitch leaving last lp on the hk made. Treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk – 3 lps remain on the hk. YO, draw through all 3 lps, ch 7. (In same dc in which you worked the previous treble, work 1 treble crochet leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk – 4 lps on the hk. YO, draw through all four lps on hk – tr3tog made, ch 7. ) 15 times. Join with a sl st in top of first tr3tog. – 16 tr3tog + 16 spaces
Round 9 notes: Round 9 is tricky, and if you are having difficulty please see the video tutorial referenced in the Notes of this pattern. When chaining 7, be sure to keep your tension very relaxed so that this round doesn’t become too tight. In the photo below you can see that I’ve begun chaining too tightly and it “squishes” the tr3tog inward. After I relax my tension, it’s better 😊
Rnd 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Work 1dc in the top of the next tr3tog st, ch 1) 15 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Sl st into 3rdch of beg ch-4. – 48 clusters + 16 dc
Rnd 11: (Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Skip next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space, ch 3. Sk next cluster and space, sl st in next dc. ) 15 times. Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Sk next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space. Sk next cluster and space, dc in same st as the sl st join of the previous round. – 32 clusters
Rnd 12: Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk. Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and draw through both lps on the hook – first tr2tog made. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the top of the next cluster. Sk next 2 chain-3 spaces, work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and pull through all 3 lps. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the first tr2tog. – 16 clusters + 16 tr2tog + 32 chain spaces
Rnd 13: Sl st in the next ch-4 space, ch 3 – counts as first dc. Work 4 dc in the same space. (1 dc in top of the next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-4 space, 1 dc in top of the next tr2tog, 5 dc in next ch-4 space) 15 times. Work 1 dc in top of next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, 1 dc in top of tr2tog. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 192 dc sts
Rnd 14: Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch-1) Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) 95 times. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rdch of beg ch-4. – 96 dc + 96 ch-1 spaces
22” in diameter after Round 14
Rnd 15: (Sk next ch-1 space. Work 1 hdc in the next dc. In the same st work 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc – scallop made. Skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc) 48 times. Join with a sl st in the same st as join from the previous rnd. – 48 scallops
Rnd 16: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Sk next st, 1 hdc in next dc, 1 sc in next tr. (1 hdc in the next dc, sk next st, 1 dc in the next sl st between scallops, sk next st, 1 hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next tr) 47 times. Hdc in next stitch, sk next st, join with a sl st to the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 192 sts
Rnd 17: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc), dc in same stitch, ch 2. (Sk next st, dc in next stitch, ch 2) rpt around. Join with a hdc stitch to first dc in the round – 146 ch-2 spaces
Rnd 18: Sc into the same space, ch 3. (Sc in next ch space, ch 3) rpt around. Join with a sl st in first sc of the round – 146 ch-3 spaces
Rnd 19: Rpt rnd 18.
Rnd 20: Rpt rnd 18.
Rnd 21: Sl st into the next ch st. Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch-1 in V-stitch pattern), 1 dc in the same space. *(1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next chain space. Rpt from * until last ch space is worked. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4.
Rnd 22: Sl st into the next ch st. Ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch-2 in V-stitch pattern), 1 dc in the same space. *(1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) in the next chain space. Rpt from * until last ch space is worked. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4.
33” after Rnd 22
Rnd 23: Sc in first space. Ch 5, (sc in next ch-1 space, Ch 5) rpt around until last ch-1 space. Ch 2, dc into the first sc of round.
Rnds 24-30. rpt rnd 23.
Rnd 31: Sc in first ch-5 sp, 5 dc in next sc (sc in next ch-5 sp, 5 dc in next sc) around, join with a sl st in first sc.
Rnd 32: Ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch 2), sc in 3rd dc of next fan, ch 2 (dc in next sc, ch 2, sc in 3rd dc of next fan, ch 2) around. Join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5.
Rnd 33: Sl st into the next ch-2 space. Ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch 2). (1 dc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2) rpt around. Join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5.
Rnd 34: Sl st into the next ch sp, ch 2 (counts as first dc in cluster), work 2 more dc in same space, leaving last lps on the hk. YO, pull through all lps on hk – 3 dc cluster made, ch 3. (3 dc cluster, ch 3 in next ch-1 sp) around. Join with a sl st in first dc of the round.
Rnd 35: Sl st into the next chain space, ch 3. *(Sc in next ch-1 space, ch 4) rpt around from *. Join with a sl stitch in first sc of rnd.
Rnd 36: Sl st into the next 2 chain sts, sc in same chain space, ch 5. (Sc in next ch-3 space, ch 5) repeat around. Join with a sl st into the first sc of round.
Rnd 37: Ch 2. Work 3 dc in the same chain space, ch 2. Sl st in the next sc. *(Chain 2, 3 dc into the next chain space, ch 2, sl st in next sc) repeat from * around. Cut yarn and tie off.
Weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoyed this project – the Lotus Mandala is a special design for me, because it represents a lot of the “breakthroughs” I’ve had while running Morale Fiber and putting my art out into the world. A lot of the frustrations, too! One never appears without the other, amirite? 😉
When I first picked up the hook for this design, I had a vague idea to try to freehand some of the more complex openwork I’d been tackling in other people’s crochet patterns. I had a long car ride ahead of me and a lot of scrap acrylic, very little design knowledge, but a willingness to fail. And I did fail, but what came off my hook surprised me completely, because it DID turn out to be a functional, complex, and pretty openwork mandala design (after a few tweaks).
And here I am, hundreds of “tweaks” later, still crocheting the Lotus. But the memory of that car ride, and what came off my hook during and after, remains a wonderment to me because I didn’t make this thing, I received it, and it’s not a gift to the world, because it’s not mine to give. It already belonged to everyone <3 -MF
I’ve been working away here at headquarters preparing this special video tutorial for the shaping and joining portion of the Flower Child Pullover crochet pattern; this post features some brand new photos, discussion of how to expand the size of the design, and full step-by-step video instructions for the shaping and joining rounds (keep scrolling – videos are at the bottom)!
First off, all the resources in this post are SUPPLEMENTAL to the written pattern, which is available for purchase in my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern store – or click here to read the original post with all the info about this design 🙂 You need the written pattern for the full instructions – this video is just a walkthrough of Rounds 8-12 of this pattern.
I wanted to get those specific rounds being worked on video because I had a lot of questions so far this season about the joining round for this project – much like the free Mandala Top crochet pattern, the Flower Child utilizes two circular shapes for the garment which are attached using a back-and-forth stitch and chain technique which is a bit complicated to get through in just written format.
The new video tutorials go through the joining portion step by step, reading along with the pattern and explaining and demonstrating as I go. I shot this footage after making several pullovers from this pattern, and I tried to include a few tips and tricks as I went without overloading on extra info.
One of the modifications I made on my practice pieces were to experiment with ways of creating larger sizes for this design. The written pattern includes sizes Small, Medium, and Large but I’ve had many inquiries on how to get larger/plus sizes for it. While I’d love to rewrite this whole pattern to expand the sizing options, these tips are the best I can do at the moment – please let me know if you have any questions 🙂
Some Tips on Sizing UP
As mentioned in the notes of the pattern, some expansion of sizing can be done by making an extra repeat Round 8 of the pattern. This can be done on any size at least once, and on the Large potentially two extra repeats of this round may be made. In the video, I work one extra Round 8 on this Medium size pullover before moving on to the shaping & joining rounds.
Fair warning, though, extra rounds cause the garment to be LONGER as well as WIDER so you’ll have to take that into consideration! If your piece ends up longer than you want, you can always skip a bottom edge row in order to compensate for that, which is what I did on this example.
On the first few examples I made, I was so enthused about starting the project that I forgot to check my gauge, and I was using a different kind of hook than the one I originally used when I wrote the pattern. And so that’s how I accidentally did another method for sizing up – changing my gauge! If you want a garment that is just a bit looser, sizing up your hook to get a different gauge is a great way to help expand this garment. I believe my gauge was 7″ at Round 4 for this looser example instead of 6″ in diameter as given in the pattern – shown below is Size Medium with the larger gauge.
It’s also possible to extend the size of the armholes – sleeve yokes and be difficult to fit to each individual even when creating a garment which is specifically graded for size! For the Flower Child, the sleeve yoke (aka the arm-hole) can be expanded by making extra chain stitches on the joining round, which is mentioned in the video but not fully demonstrated – this will change the number of repeats in the sleeve portion of the pattern, but a savvy crocheter will be able to navigate that pretty easily if familiar with the design.
Video Tutorials
I hope these instructions were helpful! I started making these latest sweater dresses for the tutorial video and found the color therapy to be really effective – I chose colors inspired by my succulent plants for the blue, green, and neutral toned ones 🙂
This design was pretty much born to be a scrapbuster, and the original written pattern comes with detailed lengths approximated for each color change so you don’t have as much guesswork to do.
Ahhhhhh! I had so much fun revisiting this design. It’s hard to believe it’s been almost 5 years since I released the pattern! I’m constantly torn between updating older designs and creating whole new ones – I usually opt for a little of both. If there’s something you’d like to see, be sure to drop a comment! 🙂 I love hearing from ya!
I’m very pleased to bring you all another a full length, real-time crochet tutorial video today!
This one demonstrates the making of my Morel Mushroom secret pouch, a cute fungus shaped pocket on a chain loop with an adjustable mushroom cap topper. The written pattern for this handy project is available for free on my blog here, but a crocheter recently commented on my YouTube Channel requesting a video demonstration since the method is very free-form.
While I can’t respond to every request I get for different resources for my patterns, occasionally a suggestion just really works for me or strikes inspiration and this was one of those times 🙂 I love making these mushroom pockets for my Pixie Belt designs and I had been working up to another new belt, one that would be lovely with a little morel…
So I recorded the making of my Morel Pouch and put together this video tutorial along with a bonus tour of my newest Pixie Pocket Belt, “Queen Anne’s Lace.”
Check out the video and all the relevant links below!
Morel Mushroom Video
I have made lots of variations on mushroom pouches over the years, including all these free resources on my blog:
Examples of Pixie Belts I’ve made, many with mushroom pockets
The newest belt, Queen Anne’s Lace, utilizes lots of vintage crochet scraps, scrap lace fabric and cotton weave, upcycled wool yarns, and handspun yarns. I’ve been dreaming of this particular pixie theme for years as it’s one of my favorite plants to see out on the roadside <3
That about wraps it up for now – let me know what you’d like to see in the future! I hope to do some more full-length videos where I work and talk in real time but only if they are helpful for people! 😉 If you’re looking for more Morale Fiber videos please subscribe to my YouTube Channel and consider becoming a Patreon supporter <3
Today I’m sharing a tutorial for the Waistcoat Stitch, aka the Knit Stitch! Despite the name, this stitch is a crochet stitch that’s actually very simple – it’s basically just single crochet – but creates a distinctive structure that’s perfect for tightly formed fabric with a smooth surface texture. Plus, it looks a bit like knitting 🙂
Waistcoat Stitch (abbreviated to “WS” or “ws”) is worked in the round to achieve the smooth knit-look texture. You can work this stitch back and forth, but because the WS relies on the Right Side to create the effect, back-and-forth WS will not look smooth and pretty like in-the-round will. The firm texture, the neat look of the surface, and the reliance on working in rounds makes this a perfect stitch for hats!
And I have yet another pointy hat being developed right this very minute, ready to be published soon, which also utilizes this awesome technique – so I’m doing a tutorial here today in preparation which includes a video demo – keep scrolling for the free instructions! <3
Waistcoat Stitch Tutorial
So how do we work this amazing little stitch? As I mentioned, the WS is basically a single crochet, so you don’t have to learn any fancy yarnwork to create it. The secret to this stitch is all in where you insert your hook to draw up the first loop for your crochet stitch.
In the first round, you’ll be working traditional single crochet stitches into your ring or your round of chains (remember, we don’t work this back and forth but in rounds instead).
Once you have established a round in single crochet, the next round will work single crochet stitches but through the vertical bars of the stitch below, not through the top two loops as normal.
Highlighted here are the top two loops (first image above) where you would normally insert your hook to draw up the first loop for your stitch. In the second image above, I have highlighted the vertical bars of the crochet stitch below, which form a bit of a “V”. You’ll be inserting your hook in between these two bars from the front and emerging through the body of the stitch to the back of the work.
Pictured Above: Inserting the hook through the middle of the highlighted vertical bars of the stitch below
At the back of the work, the vertical bars of a single crochet stitch form an upside-down “V” shape. Your hook will emerge between these vertical bars, at the point indicated by the white dot.
Pictured Above: The hook emerging at the back of the work, between the vertical bars. The stitch beside it is highlighted to show the configuration of the bars when viewed from the back, with the white dot indicating where the hook should emerge.
From there, draw up a loop. YO and draw through two loops as normal to complete one Waistcoat Stitch. Your stitch will now emerge from the center of the stitch below, coming out from the vertical V shape.
Insert your hook again through the V of the next stitch, then draw up a loop and complete the single crochet as normal. Voila! You are working waistcoat stitch!
After a few rounds of this stitch, the texture starts to become very smooth and even, with the v-shapes mimicking the loops of knitting but with a firmer, thicker fabric perfect for structured projects.
Increasing and decreasing in Waistcoat Stitch are handled the exact same way as with single crochet, but again – inserting that hook in between the vertical bars instead of the top loops. So to increase, simply work two Waistcoat stitches in the next vertical-bar “V”, so that you have an extra stitch in the same place. To decrease, work a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) but draw up your first two loops from between the vertical-bar “V”s 🙂
I’ve created this video tutorial to help you navigate the basics of this stitch – I didn’t get quite the video quality I wanted for this, but I’m working on upgrading some of my technologies for doing better videos (and dealing with some malfunctions) so stay tuned and thanks for your patience 🙂
Waistcoat Stitch Video Tutorial
As I mentioned (a lot) just love this stitch because it’s particular qualities are so good for hats! Firm fabric and a neatly smooth textured surface – it’s just perfect <3 You can also substitute this stitch for regular single crochet in many simple hat patterns – I might try it on my Mori Girl Beret pattern next!
Thanks for visiting and stay tuned for my newest hat pattern, to be released in just a few days! -MF
My little Kismet Square motif has had an eventful life so far! I designed this circle-to-square motif a couple years ago, planning on using it for an ambitious new design which STILL hasn’t seen the light of day. Okay so, I’m still working on that one and it will eventually become something really great, but it is like… taking forever. Which I’ve learned simply happens sometimes, so you just have to roll with it.
In the meantime, I’ve found the main Kismet motif really useful for inspiring other patterns – including my newest FREE halter top design which premiers right here, right now!
The Kismet Halter Top is here on this blog post for anyone who wants to enjoy it, but is also available in my Ravelry Store , Ko-fi Shop, and Etsy Shop as a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF 🙂 Read all the details of this latest design below or keep scrolling for the FREE crochet pattern instructions!
Oh, and the other project that features the Kismet motif is the Kismet Poncho, shown below, also free or purchasable as a premium pattern – OH and a FULL video tutorial version exists, too! <3 Yay!
Kismet Halter Top
The Kismet Halter top draws aspects from many of my other favorite halter top designs – a sturdy, wide construction around the ribcage for good coverage and good support, criss-cross lacing ties that don’t pressure the neck, and an eye-catching central mandala that looks perfect layered under tanks and low-cut tees. The optional Mehndi Border across the bottom can add extra coverage and turn up the festival fanciness factor!
The instructions for this top are in good written detail for the stitches and construction, while also being flexible enough to customize size to get the perfect fit. Cup sizes are written for A cup through DD cup and size suggestions for customizing the band portion go from X-Small – to 2X-Large 🙂 75+ tutorial photos are included with detailed references and clear steps connected to the written instructions.
The top is made with #4 weight 100% cotton for a quick project that will keep you cool and comfortable all summer – taken to the beach, to festivals, out dancing, or anywhere you are following your kismet <3
The following free pattern appears here exactly as in the PDF version, if you like it consider supporting my art by buying the PDF version or sampling my other patterns in the Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop! If you don’t need or want the PDF file, consider leaving a tip in my Tip Jar? Thank you for your support and please let me know what you think 🙂
Materials:
#4 weight cotton yarn (I used I Love This Cotton! – 3.5 oz/ 100 g, 180 yds, 100% cotton) 1 skein main color for Small-Med/A-C, 2 skeins main color for Lg-XL/D-DD , ~100 yds each for 2 accent colors 3.50 mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) Stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle.
Gauge: 4 sts & 3 rows = 1” in hdc 4 sts & 5 rows = 1” in sc 4 sts & 2.5 rows = 1” in dc
Sizes: A – DD Cup sizes. Sizing for band (circumference around the ribcage) is written flexibly for customizable sizes. Finished Measurements For Individual Cups (approximate, taken with cup flattened): Cup Size A: 5.5” length from top to bottom (shown below), 4” width across bottom Size B: 6.5” length, 5” width Size C: 7” length, 6.5” width Size D: 7” length, 7.5” width Size DD: 7.5” length, 8.5” width
Notes: Beginning chain stitches do not count as the first st of the row. Beginning chain sts are given as 1 chain stitch for sc, 1 chain st for hdc, 2 ch sts for dc – these are one less than the typical amount because they work better for my gauge for this project, however, if those are too tight please feel free to add an extra chain to the beginning chain as needed.
Instructions
Center Motif:
With first accent color, make magic ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first dc – fig 1), 12 dc into the ring – fig 2. Pull loose yarn end to tighten the ring, slip stitch in the first dc to join – fig 3. – 12 dc
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch 2). (1 dc in the next st, ch 2) 11 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-5 – fig 4. – 12 dc, 12 ch-2 spaces
Fig. 4
Rnd 3: In the next ch space work 1 hdc, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc, 1 hdc – fig 5. Sl st in the next dc – fig 6. (In the next ch sp work 1 hdc, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc, 1 hdc. Sl st in the next dc) 11 times. Cut yarn and tie off if changing colors. – fig 7. – 12 shells
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 7 – your motif may ruffle some at the end of this round. To help it lie flat, pull out the ends of the shells and press the motif. Don’t worry if it’s still a little curly, it will straighten out in the following rounds.
Rnd 4: Join 2nd accent color at the top of any ch space of the previous round (if not changing colors, simply slip stitch to the next ch sp). 1 sc in the same sp – fig 8. Ch 3, sc in the same space, ch 3. (1 sc in the next ch-1 space, ch 3, 1 sc in the same space, ch 3) 10 times – fig 9. 1 sc in the next ch-1 space, ch 3, 1 sc in the same space. Ch 1, work 1 hdc in the first sc of the round. This closes the last chain space by using a half-double crochet stitch instead of chain stitches so that your hook is positioned in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin the next round – figs 10-11. – 24 ch-3 spaces, 24 sc.
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Fig. 11 – the final chain space is closed by working a hdc which leaves your hook positioned in a ch-3 sized space to begin the next round.
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (does not count as first dc) – fig 12. 2 dc in the side of the last hdc worked at the close of Rnd 4, working underneath the side of the stitch as if it were a chain space – fig 13. Ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1 – fig 14. (2 dc in the next ch-3 space, ch 2. 2 dc in the same space, ch 1. 1 sc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1) 11 times – fig 15. 2 dc in the last ch-3 space, working next to the initial 2 dc. Ch 2, join with a sl st in the first dc of the round – fig 16. – 12 shells
Cut yarn and tie off – center motif should measure about 5.5” in diameter – fig 17. If motif is still curly, stretch out the points of the shells again and press flat. Some curl or ruffle will likely remain, this will also get stretched out later in the pattern. In some cases, 100% cotton yarn will be very thick and you may have extreme ruffling problems – in this case, you can skip the ch-1 in between the dc shells and the single crochets in Rnd 5 to reduce bulk.
Proceed to Cups instructions.
Fig. 12
Fig. 13
Fig. 14
Fig. 15
Fig. 16
Fig. 17 – Motif should measure about 5.5” in diameter.
Once finished, make 2 bikini cups according to your cup size:
Cups: Size A
Finished measurements: 5.5” from top to bottom (show above), 4.5” width across flat side.
Ch 16 (counts as first 15 chain stitches + 1 to turn, final ch st does not count as first st)
Foundation Row: Turn, work 1 sc in each of the next 15 ch sts. – 15 sc
Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc, see Notes), turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 14 sts. In the side of the sc on the end, work (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc). Rotate to work down the other side of the foundation row, inserting hook into the bottom loop of the chain stitches. 1 sc in ea of the next 15 sts. – 32 sc, 16 on ea side of the ch-1 space (ch-1 space not included in the end-of-row stitch counts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 15 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 sc in ea of the next 16 sc. – 34 sc, 17 on ea side of ch-1 space.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 16 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 17 sc. – 36 sc, 18 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 17 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 18 sc. – 38 sc, 19 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 18 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 19 sc. – 40 sc, 20 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 19 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 20 sc. – 42 sc, 21 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 20 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 21 sc. – 44 sc, 22 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 21 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 22 sc. – 46 sc, 23 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete. Proceed to “Construction”
Cups: Size B
Finished measurements: 6.5” from top to bottom (shown above), 5” width across flat side (shown below)
Ch 16 (counts as first 15 ch stitches + 1 to turn, final ch does not count as first st).
Foundation Row: Turn, 1 sc in ea of the next 15 ch sts. – 15 sc
Row 1: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the side of the ch 1 on the end. Rotate to work down the other side of the row, inserting hook into the bottom loop of the foundation chain stitches. 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts. – 34 hdc, 17 hdc on ea side of the ch-1 space (Ch-1 space not included in the end-of-row stitch counts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 17 sts. – 38 hdc, 19 hdc on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 18 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 19 sts. – 42 hdc, 21 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 20 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 21 sts. – 46 hdc, 23 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 22 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 23 sts. – 50 hdc, 25 on ea side of the next ch-1 sp.
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 24 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 25 sts. – 54 hdc, 27 on ea side of the next ch-1 sp.
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete. Proceed to “Construction”
Cups: Size C
Finished measurements: 7” from top to bottom (above), 6.5” width across flat side (below)
Ch 16 (counts as first 15 chain stitches + 1 to turn, final 2 ch sts do not count as first st)
Foundation Row: Turn, work 1 hdc in each of the next 15 ch sts. – 15 hdc
Row 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc, see Notes), turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 14 sts. In the side of the hdc on the end, work (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc). Rotate to work down the other side of the foundation row, inserting hook into the bottom loop of the chain stitches. 1 dc in ea of the next 15 sts. – 34 dc, 17 on ea side of the ch-1 space (ch-1 space not included in the end-of-row stitch counts)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 16 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 17 sts. – 38 dc, 19 on ea side of the ch-1 space.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. – 42 dc, 21 on ea side of the ch-1 sp
Row 4: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. – 46 dc, 23 on ea side of the ch-1 sp
Row 5: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. – 50 dc, 25 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 6: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. – 54 dc, 27 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete. Proceed to “Construction”
Cups: Sizes D-DD
D-DD cups follow the same instructions given below, with DD sizes adding extra rows at the end.
Finished measurements, D Cup: 7” from top to bottom (above), 7.5” width across flat side
Finished Measurements, DD cup: 7.5” from top to bottom, 8.5” width across flat side
Ch 19 (counts as first 18 chain stitches + 1 to turn, final ch sts do not count as first st)
Foundation Row: Turn, work 1 sc in each of the next 18 ch sts. – 18 sc
Row 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc, see Notes), turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 17 sts. In the side of the ch st on the end, work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc). Rotate to work down the other side of the foundation row, inserting hook into the bottom loop of the chain stitches. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts. – 38 dc, 19 on ea side of the ch-1 space (ch-1 space not included in the end-of-row stitch counts)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. – 40 dc, 20 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts. – 42 dc, 21 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 4: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. – 44 dc, 22 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 5: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts. – 46 dc, 23 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 6: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. – 48 dc, 24 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 7: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. (1 dc, ch 1 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. – 50 dc, 25 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 8: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. – 52 dc, 26 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Cut yarn and tie off for D cup sizes. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete.
For DD sizes, continue for following rows:
Row 9: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts. – 54 dc, 27 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 10: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 27 sts. – 56 dc, 28 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete. Proceed to “Construction”
Construction:
Completed pieces so far.
Connecting the Motif & Cups:
With the two cups complete, position the 2nd cup (with the yarn still attached), so that the attached yarn is between the motif and the cup on the side of your crocheting hand – as shown in fig. 18, below-
Fig. 18 -This configuration allows you to work back and forth between the cups and the motif to connect them.
Chain 3. Sc in any ch-2 space of the shells of the motif – fig 19. Ch 2. Skip 5 stitches on the last row of the cup, sc in the next st – fig 20.
Fig. 19
Fig. 20
*Ch 2. 1 sc in the next ch-2 space on the motif. Ch 2, skip 5 sts on the edge of the cup, 1 sc in the next st on the cup – fig 21. Repeat from * once more.
There should now be 3 shell spaces attached along the cup side, with 5 stitches between each sc attachment on the cup, and gap of remaining stitches left at the end of the cup side before the central ch-1 space of the cup peak.
How many sts you have left on the cup before the ch-1 space depends on size – 4 for A, 8 for B, 8 for C, 7 for D, 9 for DD.
Fig. 21
The connection now continues onto the second cup:
Ch 2, 1 sc in the next ch-2 space on the motif – fig 22. Count an equal amount of stitches away from the ch-1 central space on the opposite cup as you had left on the first cup (4 for A, 8 for B, 8 for C, 7 for D, 9 for DD) , mark the next stitch. Ch 2 and work 1 sc into the marked stitch. Ch 2, 1 sc in the next shell.
Fig. 22
*Ch 2, skip 5 stitches on the cup, 1 sc in the next st. Ch 2, 1 sc in the next shell of the motif.
Repeat from * once more.
Ch 2, skip 5 stitches on the cup, sc in the next st (the final stitch on the row of the cup side) – fig 23.
Fig. 23
Now the entire piece will be rotated to add chains across the rest of the central motif – fig 24.
(Ch 6 – fig 24, 1 sc in the next shell) 5 times. Ch 6, 1 sc in the side of the outermost stitch of the side of the cup – figs 25-26.
Fig. 24
Fig. 25
Fig. 26
Edges
To continue, a sc edging will be worked into the side of the cup.
In single crochet down the side of the rows on this edge of the cup, work 1 sc per row side for Cup Size A (total 17), 2 sc per row side for cup sizes B-C (total 26 for B, 26 for C), and 2-3 sc per row side for sizes D-DD (total 34 sc for D at 2 per side, 42 for DD at 2 per side) – fig 27.
Depending on gauge, you may want to work 3 sc per row side for cups worked in dc – you can experiment and decide which looks best as the rest of the instructions will be flexible for this area of the design.
Fig. 27
At the edge of the cup, ch 1 and rotate the piece to work along what is now the “bottom” portion of the halter top – fig 28. 1 sc in each stitch until reaching the ch-1 space at the peak of the cup. 1 sc in the ch-1 space. 1 sc in the next st – fig 29.
Fig. 28
Fig. 29
Ch 1 for A-C sizes. Ch 2 for D-DD sizes. Skip to next cup, 1 sc in the st right before the ch-1 space. 1 sc in the next ch-1 space. Continue along the bottom edge of the next cup by working 1 sc in each st until the edge – fig 30.
Fig. 30
Ch 1, rotate to begin working along the edge of the cup – fig 31. 1-3 sc in the side of each row according to your size the same way as you worked with the other cup edge, until reaching the top corner – fig 32. Slip stitch in the top corner stitch to join, cut yarn and tie off.
Fig. 31
Fig. 32
Fig. 33
Reattach main yarn at the bottom corner of the halter top so that you are ready to work across the length of the bottom again.
Bottom:
Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), 1 sc in each st until 3 stitches from the chain that runs across the middle of the two cups – fig 34.
Fig. 34
Ch 4 – 5 (4 for smaller sizes, 5 for larger), skip the next 3 stitches, the chains, and the 3 sts on the opposite side – fig 35. 1 sc in the next st and in ea remaining stitch across the bottom length.
Fig. 35
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st and in each stitch across the bottom of the first half, working 4-5 sc in the chain space, then working 1 sc in each st across the bottom of the second half – fig 36.
Fig. 36
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across – fig 37.
Fig. 37
Now there should be 3 rows total of single crochet after the 2nd chain space between the cups (not counting the row containing the chain space). To finish the bottom edge, you can add as much hdc as you like by working the following:
Row 5: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea stitch across – fig 38.
Work an amount of rows repeating Row 5 so that the top is the length you like. I suggest the following amounts just to get started, then add more or less if you like: XS: 3 rows, Small: 4 rows, Med-Large: 5 rows, XL-2XL: 6 rows. Do not tie off. Proceed to Side Panel instructions.
Fig. 38
Side Panels
Rotate the piece so that you are preparing to work up the side of the halter toward the motif – fig 39.
Row 1: Ch 1, 1 hdc in the side of ea row just worked along the bottom of the halter for all rows worked. For example, a total of bottom rows equaling 7 (4 sc rows, 3 hdc rows) would be 7 sc.
Fig. 39
Row 1 Ct’d: Working in the sc stitches up the side of the cup, 1 hdc in ea st until this portion covers 5 total rows of the cup – fig. 40. This will be approximately 5 more stitches for A cups, 10 more stitches for B and C cups, and 10-15 more stitches for D and DD cups (depending on how many sc’s per row end you worked).
This will extend the side panel to cover about 1/3rd of the cup length. Smaller sizes may go up to almost ½ the cup length if more coverage is needed.
The total width of these side panels can also be modified here to suit taste or desired fit – just add or remove stitches to alter the width of the side panel.
Fig. 40
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea st across.
Repeat for as many rows as you like to get enough length to reach around your ribcage.
Use the following as a guide & customize number of rows to suit your personal fit: X-Small: 10 rows, Small: 12 rows, Med: 15, Lg: 18, XL: 21, 2XL: 23
These amounts are just a starting point, as you can do as many or as few rows as you need here.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Attach yarn to the opposite corner and work the same amount of stitches up the side to start the second side panel. Repeat the same amount of rows as you did before to complete second side panel. Proceed to Trim & Straps Instructions.
Trim & Straps
Reattach yarn at the top corner of the panel on the side of your hook hand, Right Side of the piece facing (as shown below). Depending on how many rows on your side panel, you may finish in this spot, in which case you wouldn’t have to cut & rejoin the yarn.
Rejoined yarn at the top corner of the side panel on my hook hand side (the right side). Right Side facing.
Step 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st of the sides of the side panel rows. As before, you can add more or less to loosen or tighten the stitching depending on tension and preference – fig 41
Step 2: Now working in the side of the cup, 1 Sc in ea stitch up the side of the cup – fig 42 – until reaching the ch-6 space that connects the motif to the top.
Fig. 41
Fig. 42
Step 3: (6 sc in the next ch-6 space, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times – fig 43.
Fig. 43
Step 4 (First strap) Here we add the straps that cross in the back and then weave back and forth through the eyelets. We’ll need plenty of length to weave back and forth – I use 200 for a smalls-mediums. 200-250 is usually enough, but it also depends on how long your side panels are. If you’re not sure, err on the side of extra length as you can always wrap the ties more to get the out of the way. If they are too short, you either have to frog and try again or attach yarn at the end and lengthen by chaining and slip stitching back down the extra length. 😉
Ch 200-250 – fig 44.
Slip stitch in each ch stitch all the way back down the chain. Sc in the same stitch as last sc fig 45.
Fig. 44
Fig. 45
Step 5: (6 sc in the next ch-6 space, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times.
Step 6 (Second strap) Ch 200-250 – fig 46. Slip stitch back down, 1 sc in the same stitch as last sc.
Fig. 46
Step 7: (6 sc in the next ch-6 space, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times – fig 47.
Fig. 47
Step 8: 1 sc in ea st down the side of the next cup.
Step 9: 1 sc in ea st on the side of the panel rows – matching the number you got for the other side – fig 48.
Fig. 48
Step 10: Ch 3, rotate to work down the edge of the panel. Sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in each of the next 4-5 sts*.
(Ch 1, sk next st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 4-5 sts) rpt across the end of the side panel – fig 49. This creates the eyelets necessary to weave the straps back and forth.
*Depending on the exact number of stitches in your side panel, your eyelet number might be different. Just create as many repeats so that the skipped stitches are even across the panel. You can vary the number of stitches between eyelets to help balance the spacing.
Fig. 49
Step 11: At the end of the row, rotate to work across the bottom of the halter top. Ch 3, 1 sc in each row end stitch across the bottom of the side panel, in each stitch across the bottom of the halter, and in each row end across the other side panel. – fig 50.
Fig. 50
Step 12: Ch 3, 1 hdc in the same st. Working across the top row of the side panel, create the (4-5 hdc, ch 1, sk next st) repeats from the other side to create a matching eyelet row. At the final stitch, ch 3 and slip stitch in the first stitch of the strap edging round – fig 51.
Cute yarn and tie off.
Fig. 51
Mehndi Border (Optional)
The Mehndi Border creates a cute textural decoration of petals and pompoms across the bottom of the halter. This is a great option if you are wearing your halter alone as a crop top and want a little more coverage – it does make it a bit bulky for layering though.
This feature originally appeared in another halter design of mine, the Mehndi Halter Top!
Finished Mehndi Border (shown above)
Row 1: With RS facing, join coordinating color yarn into the bottom edge – fig 52 – and ch 3. The first ch 3 counts as the first dc. (Ch 1, sk the next st, dc in the next st) across to the other edge of the bottom – figs 53-54.
Fig. 52
Fig. 53
Fig. 54
Row 2: Ch 6, turn – fig 55, sk next 4 sts, sl st in the next st – fig 56. (Ch 6, sk next 4 sts, sl st in the next st) across – figs 57-58.
Fig. 55
Fig. 56
Fig. 57
Fig. 58
Row 3: Turn without chaining. 2 hdc in the last ch-6 loop of the previous row – figs 59-60. Work 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc in the same loop. 1 hdc in the same space – fig 61. YO, draw up a loop in the same ch-6 space. YO, draw up a loop in the next ch-6 space – fig 62. YO and draw through all 5 lps on the hook – 1 hdc2tog over 2 ch-6 spaces – fig 63. (1 hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc2tog over the next 2 spaces) in ea ch-6 space across, forming the “petals” of the border design. 1 hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc in the last ch-6 space – fig 64. Sl st in the side of the last dc of the first row.
Fig. 59
Fig. 60
Fig. 61
Fig. 62
Fig. 63
Fig. 64
Cut yarn and tie off if changing to 2nd accent color. If not, then turn without chaining to begin Row 4.
The petals will likely be slanted or curly from working – take the middle tr stitch and stretch them until evenly placed on the spaces and straightened – fig 65.
Fig. 65
Row 4: Turn, join new color at the middle tr st of the first petal. If using same color, sl st to that stitch. Ch 7 ( counts as ch-5 + first 2 ch of pompom st) – fig 66. *Dc3tog in the 2nd ch from the hook. Ch 2, Dc3tog in the top of the previous cluster. Slip stitch in the base of the FIRST cluster, bringing the two dc clusters together to form two halves of a ball* – from * to * is your pompom stitch (see tutorial, Pg. 22). Ch 5, sl st in the 2nd treble of the next petal – fig 67. (Ch 7, pom pom stitch, ch 5, sl st in the 2nd tr of the next petal) repeat across – fig 68.
Fig. 66
Fig. 67
Fig. 68
Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.
To Wear
Weave in all remaining ends. The two long ties at the top of the motif cross and/or tie at the neck, then cross over again to lace down the eyelets of the side panels.
I hope you have as much fun making & wearing this top as I did designing it! I love the flattering way the border flares out from the natural waist, which makes it so versatile as a crop top for higher waisted skirts and pants – while you can also leave off the border entirely for a perfect layering bralette 🙂
The Pom Pom Stitch is one of the first crochet textural details I learned, and I was so excited to discover it – easy, cute, and almost perfectly round, the pom pom bobble is made of two double crochet clusters stacked together and can be inserted into projects for beautiful accents and trims.
Crochet really is a magic art in my opinion – a never-ending world of things to learn and try and endless combinations of techniques makes this hobby perfect for the obsessively curious and tactile artist in me.
Anyway, it’s time I published the Pom Pom Stitch Tutorial here on the blog for everyone to try, and I’ve got a brand new demo video to go along with it – you can watch at the bottom of the post after the written and photo tutorial which starts now!
Pom Pom Stitch
The pompom stitch uses two clusters of double crochet stitches stacked on top of each other to form a round ball which makes a fun border decoration. For this example I’m placing them on chain spaces, but you can place them anywhere as long as you work the chain 2 to start as indicated in Step 1. Here’s how to work it:
Step 1: Work the amount of stitches desired until reaching the point to place the pompom. Ch 2 to count as the beginning of the pompom stitch. *Yarn over and insert hook in the 2nd ch from the hook. Draw up a loop, YO, pull through 2 lps on the hook. Repeat twice more into the same stitch, leaving the last lp of each dc on the hook for each stitch. You should have 4 lps on the hook.
YO once more and pull through all 4 lps on the hook. One dc3tog made.
Step 2: Ch 2, to gain height for the second cluster.
Step 3: Working into the TOP of the last cluster, make another dc3tog.
Step 4: Insert hook into the same stitch that you worked your FIRST cluster and make a slip stitch, bringing the two clusters together to form two halves of a ball – fig 74.
Step 5: Finish the repeat by chaining enough to get to the next pom pom (or as indicated in pattern). Here it’s shown worked into the Mehndi Border!
Tip: Keeping your clusters tight and wet blocking the border when you are finished helps the pompoms look nice and round!
Pom Pom Stitch Video Demo
The demo for the video goes over the Pom Pom stitch as it occurs on the Mehndi Border, but remember you can place them anywhere you like by starting with just the 2 chain stitches and then working the pompom on those 🙂
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and learned something new, and as always if you have any questions or feedback please leave them in the comments! <3 Thanks for visiting 🙂
