Hook Review & Overalls Dress

One of the best things about doing more video media is the ability to show my latest and greatest crochet projects in action! Today’s post introduces the newest video on my YouTube Channel, which is a Hook Review that goes over some different hook types and hook brands that I’ve used. In that video, I feature several of my own patterns but also this lovely crochet overalls dress from The Dream Crochet Shoppe on Etsy! I finished her pattern recently and love the product so much I had to show it off by wearing it for the review – here’s a few snapshots of this cute crochet design!

I don’t get to branch out to work other people’s crochet patterns nearly as often as I’d like, since all my crochet mojo is usually funneled toward creating my own original designs. But I make an effort every so often to stop and pull out a pattern from my (ever growing) collection of purchased PDF’s. It’s a fantastic way to branch out and learn from others and also to give my own brain a break 🙂 I adore Ashlee Elle’s designs and she has SO many to choose from! Check her out on Instagram, too!

In my newest video, I wanted to go over some of the crochet hook types and hook brands that I have in my collection of tools. Crochet hooks are super important (duh) to your work because changes in hooks will create subtle changes in your projects and you want to use the right tool for the job, but one that also works well for you individually! That’s why it’s a good idea to know what’s available.

Brands reviewed cover Boye and Susan Bates (the “regular” aluminum metal style hooks), Clover (soft grip and contoured), and specifically reviews Furls crochet hooks – are they really worth the money?

My current Furls collection says yes 😉 All opinions expressed are just mine and I haven’t been compensated or influenced in any way by the brands I talk about here! Just a crocheter’s honest thoughts. After all, they are our magic wands so every crocheter will have their favorites for their personal collection 🙂

Hook Review

I mention two of my own designs in the video too, here are the links to the posts with more info on those!
Mandala Top
Cobweb Wrap

I also mention the Field Guide to Crochet Gauge and Yarn Behavior, a blog post of mine that outlines some of the ways that gauge, hooks, and yarn types interact within crochet projects. There’s so much to learn about the finer points of crochet and I’m always trying to learn more – I hope my perspective is inspiring and helpful to your personal fiber art journey 🙂

-MF

Mandala Top Add-Ons Free Pattern

In my last post I was happy to re-release the premium Mandala Top crochet pattern as a FREE offering on my blog – that design was several years old at this point and I wanted to make it more widely available as it’s one of my all-time favorites! The Mandala Top also got a few additional features over the years, namely the cute bell-shaped Drop Sleeves option and the (absolutely essential IMO) Dress Extension which adds more length and flounce to the bottom of the tunic.

Anyway, the Mandala Top Free Pattern post ran a little long, so I’m doing the Mandala Top Add-Ons free patterns in this post! Keep scrolling to get the instructions for both of these features for all 4 sizes, or go to my Ravelry Store or Etsy Shop to get the all-inclusive portable, downloadable, ad-free version by purchasing the Mandala Top PDF!

This whole design looks superb with regular ol’ #4 worsted weight acrylics, and affordable yarn means you can easily create the most colorful mandalas you can imagine! I can’t decide if I love these more in color combos using spare yarn balls, or in single tone neutrals that go with everything ❤

Mandala Top Drop Sleeves

Materials:

5.00 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: #4 worsted weight – yardage given is in addition to the yarn required to complete the main body of the top.
Small, Medium, Large: 200 yds
X-Large: 285 yds
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Markers
Scissors

Gauge:

4 sts and 2 rows = 1” in dc

Notes: Instructions are given for working the sleeve directly onto the side of the top. For a tutorial on how to work the DCh stitch, refer back to the Mandala Top Pattern

Small, medium, and large instructions are the same, instructions for XL will appear as a secondary option, where differing.

Work the entire Mandala Top Pattern. For the straps, add extra DCh sts according to the sizes below:

Small & Medium: 10 extra DCh

Large: 15 extra DCh

X-Large: 20 extra Dch

 Do not weave in the ends of the straps, as you may want to adjust them later.

Pattern for Sleeves

Foundation: Attach yarn 6 sc sts away from the base of the strap at the back of the top – counting toward the armpit, not toward the neckline of the top.

Ch 1, work a sc in the same st. Insert hk into the side bar of the sc, then draw up a loop to begin the first DCh st. YO and draw through both lps on the hook – 1 DCh stitch made. Place marker in this st.

DCh 28 more sts. Insert hk through both side bar of last DCh st and through the stitch 6 sc sts away from the strap on the other side of the top. Draw up a loop, then YO and draw through both lps on the hk. Place marker in this stitch.

Working toward the armpit of the top, not toward the strap, work 1 sc in the next 16 (26) sts, sk the stitch where the front and back of the top are joined, work 1 sc in ea of the next 16 (26) sts. – 60, 80 sts.

The stitches you marked (the very first and very last of the DCh) DO NOT count as stitches for Rnd 1. Skip over them completely when working the instructions for the following round.

Rnd 1: Ch 5  –  counts as first tr + ch-1. (sk next st, tr in the next st, ch 1) 29, 39 times. Join with a sl st in the 4th ch of beg ch-5.

Rnd 2: Sl st into the next ch st. Ch 5 – counts as first tr + ch 1. (sk next st, tr in the next ch-1 space, ch 1) 29, 39 times. Join with a sl st in the 4th ch of beg ch-5.

Rnd 3.: Rpt Rnd 2.

Rnd 4: Sl st into the next ch-1 space. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc into the same space, ch 3. (2 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 28, 38 times. 2 dc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1, join with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

Rnd 5: Ch 3- counts as first dc. Dc into the same space, ch 3. (2 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 28, 38 times. 2 dc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1, join with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

Rnd 6: Rpt Rnd 5.

Rnd 7: Ch 4 – counts as first tr. Tr in the same space, ch 3. (2 tr in the next ch-3 space, ch 3) 28, 38 times. 2 tr in the next ch-3 space, ch 1, join with a hdc in the 4th ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 8: Rpt Rnd 7.

Rnd 9: Rpt Rnd 7.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Repeat foundation and rounds 1-10 on the opposite side. For the second foundation, join your yarn 6 sc sts from the base of the strap on the front side so that you maintain the RS facing. Weave in all ends.

Forming the Adjustable Ring

The adjustable ring draws the straps together in an X at the back of the top to keep them from falling off the shoulder from the additional weight of the sleeves; this design requires that extra length is added to the straps. Though the general guidelines for adding extra length is given, you may want to test the lengths first to check what fits best.

Step 1: With new yarn that is the same color as the straps, ch 6. Bring the straps together in the back and slip the chain around both straps. Join with a sl st in the first ch to form a ring that encircles the straps.

Step 2: Sc into the same stitch. Sc into ea of the next 5 ch sts. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc of the ring. Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in ends, making sure that the ring is not attached to either strap at any point.

Mandala Top Dress Extension

Materials:

5.00 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge

#4 Worsted Weight yarn (yardage given is in addition to amount needed to complete the main body of the top)
Smalls & Mediums: 200 yds
Larges & X-Larges: 275 yds
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Add more length and flounce to your mandala top by completing this extension pattern for the 3 extra rounds at the bottom of the garment.

Smalls  & Mediums Instructions:

Rnd 1: With RS facing, join new yarn in the 2nd ch-8 space from the dc2tog at the side of the top. Ch 7 – counts as first dc + ch 4. Dc in the same space, ch 7. *Dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 4. YO and insert hook under the next ch-4 space. Draw up a loop, YO, and draw through 2 lps on the hook – 2 lps left on the hook. YO and insert hook under next ch-4 space, draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk, YO again and draw through all 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made. Ch 4.* (Dc in the next ch sp, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 31 times.  Repeat from *to *. (Dc in the next space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 30 times. Dc in the next ch space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 4. Tr in the 3rd ch of beg ch-7. 132 chain spaces made.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) twice.* 2 dc in the next chain space, ch 4. YO and insert hk under the next ch-4 space. Draw up a loop, YO and draw through 2 lps on the hook – 2 lps left on the hook. YO and insert hook under the next ch-4 space, draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk, YO again and draw through all 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made. Ch 4. * (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 62 times. Rpt from * to *. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 60 times. 2 dc in the next chain space, ch 4, treble in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 130 chain spaces made.

Rnd 3: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) twice. .* 2 dc in the next chain space, ch 4. YO and insert hk under the next ch-4 space. Draw up a loop, YO and draw through 2 lps on the hook – 2 lps left on the hook. YO and insert hook under the next ch-4 space, draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk, YO again and draw through all 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made. Ch 4. * (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 61 times. Rpt from * to *. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 60 times. Sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 128 chain spaces made.

Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

Size Large Instructions:

Rnd 1: With RS facing, join new yarn in the 2nd ch-8 space from the dc2tog at the side of the to .Ch 7 – counts as first dc + ch 4. Dc in the same space, ch 7. *Dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 4. YO and insert hook under the next ch-4 space. Draw up a loop, YO, and draw through 2 lps on the hook – 2 lps left on the hook. YO and insert hook under next ch-4 space, draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk, YO again and draw through all 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made. Ch 4. *(Dc in the next ch sp, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 45 times.  Repeat from *to *. (Dc in the next space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 44 times. Dc in the next ch space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 4. Tr in the 3rd ch of beg ch-7. 188 chain spaces made.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) twice.* 2 dc in the next chain space, ch 4. YO and insert hk under the next ch-4 space. Draw up a loop, YO and draw through 2 lps on the hook – 2 lps left on the hook. YO and insert hook under the next ch-4 space, draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk, YO again and draw through all 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made (see fig 3). Ch 4. * (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 90 times. Rpt from * to *. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 88 times. 2 dc in the next chain space, ch 4, treble in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 186 chain spaces made.

Rnd 3: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) twice.* 2 dc in the next chain space, ch 4. YO and insert hk under the next ch-4 space. Draw up a loop, YO and draw through 2 lps on the hook – 2 lps left on the hook. YO and insert hook under the next ch-4 space, draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk, YO again and draw through all 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made. Ch 4. * (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 89 times. Rpt from * to *. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 88 times. Sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 184 chain spaces made. Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

X-Large Instructions:

Rnd 1: With RS facing, join new yarn to any ch-8 space. Ch 7 – counts as first dc + ch . Dc in the same space, ch 7. (Dc in the next space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 91 times. Dc in the next ch space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 4. Tr in the 3rd ch of beg ch-7. 194 chain spaces made.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 192 times. 2 dc in the next ch space, ch 4, tr in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 194 chain spaces made.

Rnd 3: Repeat Round 2.

Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

That’s it for this re-release! It’s been so much fun revisiting this pattern and setting up this design to become free and available to everyone, not the least because it’s an excuse to make new versions 😉 If you have any questions about this design please leave me a comment or contact me directly through messages on any of my social media sites!

One more mention before I go – I started playing around with the Mandala Top design after I had finished it to see about adding sleeves and making it a sweater (those are my first drafts below)…

… which after some tweaking and changing things a bit, led directly to the Flower Child Pullover design, a paid PDF pattern in my Ravelry and Etsy stores – in case you’re interested 😉

-MF

Mandala Top Free Pattern

I’m always looking for the best ways to expand my offerings as I grow and develop as a crochet pattern designer. On one hand, I need to make enough money from my business to pay my bills and care for myself. On the other hand, offering things for free here on my blog is mutually beneficial to me AND you! By offering more free things, people have the chance to see what my premium written patterns are like, and if they like them and want to use them all the time the hope is that they’ll buy the downloadable, ad-free versions 🙂

Offering free patterns also drives up my website and channel views, which in turn make me a little more money from ad revenue- not as much as the paid PDFs, but some. But the best part of this scenario is that through free pattern offerings, more people make awesome things based off of my patterns and when they tag me in their social media posts, I get to see and so do others who then go to find my patterns! 🙂

This is the true definition of a win-win scenario, and to me it applies the theories of Mutual Aid, which I think is important for the future of our society ❤ Mutual Aid is offering freely what can be freely given with no presupposition of charity or reward – Mutual Aid is based on the theory that what is good for one of us, is in turn good for all of us, because human society is inextricably connected. We are all just threads in a great universal mandala, you guys.

Anyway, that spiel was leading up to the fact that today I’m re-releasing my previously paid-only crochet pattern, the Mandala Top, here on this blog post for FREE! If you like it you can check out my Tip Jar page here and maybe leave a little somethin’ in the Jar to help fund future offerings. What goes around comes around ❤

If you want the downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF version of this pattern, you can still get it in my Ravelry Store or Etsy Shop! The free version also includes the Mandala Top Add-Ons, two bonus features you can add to your basic top design, and the paid version in my shops now include the Add-Ons PDF with the main Mandala Top in one single purchase. They were previously two separate purchases but now they are all included under the Mandala Top listing for the price of a single pattern 😉 Yay! Keep scrolling for the FREE version.

For this re-release, I made a few pearly white Mandala Tops in sizes Large and Small (small is pictured on me here), and I recorded some video tutorial footage (found at the bottom of the page) to help people navigate the Joining Round, which can be a little tricky to interpret just from the written version. I think this new video is helpful and I hope you do too!

For the model photography I went totally shabby chic, pairing my pearly white Mandala tunic with a white lacey dress, a vintage crochet collar I thrifted, and a sweet straw bucket hat because I’m obsessed with Mori Girl and Grandmacore fashion 😉

But this design also great in more colorful versions, such as the super cute hippie girl tunics modeled by my lovely friend Laney above & below.

And, for good measure, the oooooooold picture from the original release of this design, in sweet vintage-y warm browns and pinks ❤

Actually, over the years I’ve made a TON of these. They are quick to work once you’re familiar with the pattern and they have always been great sellers for me when I take them to vend at festivals 🙂

Okay, so now that we’re fully inspired, on to the FREE PATTERN!

Mandala Top Pattern

Materials:

5.0 mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)
300-400 total yards worsted weight yarn in various colors
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Markers

Gauge: Round 1 = 5” measured straight across the diameter
or
4 sts and 2 rows = 1” in dc

Stitches Used:
Magic Ring: The best method for starting circular crochet with no central gap. Refer to this great guide from Craftsy at – http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/09/demystifying-the-magic-ring/

Double Chain (Dch): See my free tutorial for this technique here.

Half Double Crochet (hdc): Between sc and double crochet in height.  Yarn over, insert hk into the next stitch. Yarn over and draw up a lp. Yarn over and pull through all three lps on the hk. Equal to 2 chains in length when joining.

Treble Crochet (tr): Equal to 4 chains in length when joining. Yarn over twice and insert hk into the next stitch. Draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw through 2 lps on the hook three times.

Double Treble Crochet (dtr):  Yarn over 3 times, insert hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw through 2 lps on the hook  4 times.  Equal to 5 chains in length.

Triple Treble Crochet (trtr): Yarn over 4 times, insert hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw through 2 lps on the hook 5 times

Sizes: Small – XL

Notes

Sizing: the openwork mesh structure of the garment allows for a lot of drape and stretch so that it fits a wide variety of body types. When choosing a size, keep in mind that the bust width given is the maximum length the garment will stretch from armpit to armpit without warping the appearance of the pattern.

Color Changing:  This pattern is written for 5-6 different colors, but looks great with any amount of color changes. If you are working custom color changes, make sure to start at the same point the last pattern round leaves off unless the pattern indicates you may join the new yarn at any space.

Round Closure and Counting Spaces: Some rounds use a chain and stitch combination to close the round in order to place your hook at the apex of a loop to start the following round. (Ex from Rnd 3 in Small: 2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 3. Double in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-3.  16 ch-6 spaces made.) This chain and stitch combination forms a space the same size as the rest of the chain spaces in the round and IS COUNTED as a chain-space in the final count at the end of the round instructions. For instance, the chain and stitch combo example from Rnd 3 counts as one of the 16 (for small or medium) or 20 (for large and x-large) chain-6 spaces for the entire round. For more on this technique, see my comprehensive free tutorial on closing chain-space rounds with the Chain & Stitch Join.

Instructions for Small & Medium Sizes:

To begin, make Magic Ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 9, counts as Trtr plus ch-4. (Trtr into ring, ch 4) 14 times. Trtr into the ring, ch 2, hdc in the 5th chain of beginning ch-9.  16 trtr + ch-4 spaces made. Pull your magic ring closed tightly.

Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first treble. (Treble in the next ch-4 space, ch 4, treble in the same space) 15 times. Treble in the next ch-4 space, ch 4, join with a slip stitch to the 4th chain of beginning ch-4. 16 treble V stitches made. Cut color and tie off.

Rnd 3: Join new color to any ch-4 space. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the same ch-4 space, ch-6. (2 dc in the next space, ch 6) 14 times. 2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 3. Dc in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-3.  16 ch-6 spaces made.

Rnd 4: Ch 3 – counts as first double. Double in the same ch-6 space, ch 7. (2 dc in the next space, ch 7) 15 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 16 ch-7 spaces made. Cut yarn and tie off.

Rnd 5: Join new color in the middle of any ch-7 space. Ch 6 – counts as dc + ch-3. Dc in the same space, ch 7. ([dc, ch 3, dc, ch7] in the next ch-7 space) 14 times. Dc in the next ch-7 space, ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 3, treble in the 3rd ch of beg ch-6.  32 chain spaces made

Rnd 6: Ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 7. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 7) 31 times.  Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 32 chain spaces. Cut yarn and tie off.

MEDIUMS ONLY: Rnd 7: Rejoin yarn in any ch-7 space. Ch 3 to count as first dc, dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 31 times. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 32 chain spaces. Cut yarn and tie off.

Rnd 7/8 : Join new yarn to any chain space. Ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 2 times. Work (2 dtr, ch 8) twice in the next chain space. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 4 times.  Work (2 dtr, ch 8) twice in the next chain space.  (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 22 times. 2 dc in the next space, ch 4, treble in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 34 ch-8 spaces made.

Chart shows Size M

Rnd 8/9:  Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 5) 3 times.  Work (2 tr, ch 8, 2 tr, ch 5) in the next ch-8 space. (Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 5) 5 times. Work (2 tr, ch 8, 2 tr, ch 5) in the next ch-8 space. (Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 5) 3 times. Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8. (Dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 18 times. Dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 8. Join with a sl stitch to the first sc of the round. 55 chain spaces made. Cut yarn and tie off.

If this is the first motif made, complete Rnds 1-8/9 again to form a second motif. If this is your second motif, move on to the joining round in Round 9/10.

The following instructions work the sc border across the top half of both of the mandala motifs. This is mostly covered in the Part 1 of the Mandala Top Joining Video Tutorial, included at the bottom of the page.

JOINING: Rnd 9/10 :  Join new yarn in the sixth stitch from end of the last round on the last motif (this will be the second single crochet of round 8/9.)  *(1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in each of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 ch stitches, 3 hdc in the next ch stitch. Place marker in the 2nd hdc made. 1 sc in ea of the next 3 ch stitches and in ea of the next 2 treble stitches.  (1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in the next sc) 5 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in ea of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in each of the next 3 ch stitches, 3 hdc in the next ch st. Place marker in the 2nd hdc made.  1 sc in ea of the next 4 ch sts, 1 sc in ea of the next 2 treble sts. (1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch sts, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts. *

Align the second motif with the first, making sure the two wrong sides are facing each other. Align the 3rd single crochet stitch from the left of the leftmost set of treble sts (or the right of the rightmost if you are a leftie) with the corresponding stitch on the second motif. Work one sc through both stitches at once. Begin to work the Rnd 9/10 pattern from * to * on the second motif, working ONLY the stitches of the second motif, and working in the direction of the nearest set of trebles. To end the round, insert hook through the next sc and through the corresponding stitch of the opposite motif (the third sc left of the leftmost set of trebles, or right of the rightmost if you are a leftie). Work a sl stitch through both stitches at once. Do not cut or tie off, move on to Round 10/11.

The following instructions work down the side of the two mandala motifs, constructing a join made of chaining and sc back and forth between the two motifs. This is described in Part 2 of the Joining Video Tutorial below, as well as in the charts pictured 🙂

Rnd 10/11: Keeping both motifs aligned, the motif on top (facing you) will be referred to as #1. The motif in back (further away from you) will be #2. You will be working a fagoting stitch join between the two motifs (See fig 3 for chart) . Working away from the nearest set of trebles, ch 3 and sc in the next Ch-5 space of #2.  Ch 3, sc in the corresponding ch-5 space of #1. Ch 5, sc in the next ch-8 space of #2, ch 5, sc in the corresponding ch-8 space of #1. Ch 5, sc in the next ch-4 space of #2, ch 5, sc in the corresponding ch-4 space of #1 (fagoting joint completed) Ch 8.

Now we will work across the bottom of only one of the motifs until reaching the other side, where we will work another join.

(2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 35 times. (Beginning of next join) Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5. Sc in the corresponding space on #2, ch 5.  Sc in the next ch-8 space of #1, ch 5. Sc in the corresponding ch space of #2, ch 5. Sc in the next ch-5 space of #1, ch 3, sc in the corresponding space of # 2. Ch 3, join with a slip stitch in the motif-join sc of Rnd 9/10. Cut yarn and tie off.

Rnd 10/11 makes up an extra row on the tunic, making one side slightly longer. This longer side is now the back side. Rnd 11/12 is worked in a single round around the bottom, including both front and back as two halves of the same round. I show where to start this next round in the last part of Part 2 of the video Joining Tutorial. 

Rnd 11/12: With RS facing, join new yarn in the 3rd ch-8 space from the last ch-5 in the fagoting join on the back half of the top. Ch 3 to count as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. *2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4. Yarn over and draw up a lp through the next ch-8 space, yo and draw through 2 lps on the hook. Yarn over and draw up a loop through the next free chain space (skipping ch-5 of fagoting join and the chain space it is attached to). Yarn over and draw through 2 lps on the hook. Yarn over and draw through the last 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made. Ch 4. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 32 times.* Rpt from * to *. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. Cut yarn and tie off. – 69 ch spaces total.

Proceed to the Straps portion of the instructions 🙂

Instructions for Size Large:

Make Magic Ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 9, counts as Trtr plus ch-4. (Trtr into ring, ch 4) 18 times. Trtr into the ring, ch 2, hdc in the 5th chain of beginning ch-9.  20 trtr + ch-4 spaces made. Pull your magic ring closed tightly.

Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first treble. (Treble in the next ch-4 space, ch 4, treble in the same space) 19 times. Treble in the next ch-4 space, ch 4, join with a slip stitch to the 4th chain of beginning ch-4.  20 treble V stitches made. Cut color and tie off.

Rnd 3: Join new color to any ch-4 space. Ch 3 – counts as first double. Double in the same ch-4 space, ch 6. (2 dc in the next space, ch 6) 18 times. 2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 3. Double in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-3.  20 ch-6 spaces made.

See instructions for Small & Medium sizes to view the charted examples of the joins in Rnds 1-5.


Rnd 4: Ch 3 – counts as first double. Double in the same ch-6 space, ch 7. (2 dc in the next space, ch 7) 19 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 20 ch-7 spaces made. Cut yarn and tie off.

Rnd 5: Join new color in the middle of any ch-7 space. Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch-3. Dc in the same space, ch 7. ([dc, ch 3, dc, ch7] in the next ch-7 space) 18 times. Dc in the next ch-7 space, ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 3, treble in the 3rd ch of beg ch-6.  40 chain spaces made.

Rnd 6:  Ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 7. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 7) 39 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-3. Cut yarn and tie off. 40 ch spaces made.

Rnd 7: Join new color in the middle of any ch-7 space. Ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch-7 space, ch 8) 38 times. 2 dc in the next space, ch 4, treble in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 40 ch-8 spaces made.

Rnd 8: Ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) 2 more times. Work (2 trtr, ch 8) twice in the next ch-8 space. (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) 4 times.  Work (2 trtr, ch 8) twice in the next ch-8 space.  (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) 31 times. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. Cut yarn and tie off. 42 ch-8 spaces made.

Rnd 9: Join new color in the final ch-8 space of Rnd 8. Sc in the same space as join, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 5) 3 times. (2 treble, ch 8, 2 treble, ch 5) in the next ch-8 space – 1 treble shell made. (Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 5) 5 times. (2 tr, ch 8, 2 tr, ch 5) in the next ch-8 space – 2nd treble shell made . (Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 5) 3 times. Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8. (Dc in the next ch-8 sp, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7)  26 times. Dc in the next ch-8 sp, ch-4, dc in the same space, ch 8. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round – 71 chain spaces made. Rpts Rnds 1-9 for second motif.

If this is the completion of Rnd 9 on your first motif, cut yarn and tie off. If this the completion of Rnd 9 on your second motif, do not tie off.

The following instructions work the sc border across the top half of both of the mandala motifs. This is mostly covered in the Part 1 of the Mandala Top Joining Video Tutorial, included at the bottom of the page

Rnd 10 (Joining) :  Sl stitch in the next 5 ch sts, sl st in the next sc st. *(1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in each of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 ch stitches, 3 hdc in the next ch stitch. Place a marker in the 2nd hdc. 1 sc in ea of the next 3 ch stitches and in ea of the next 2 treble stitches.  (1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in the next sc) 5 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in ea of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in each of the next 3 ch stitches, 3 hdc in the next ch st, place marker in the 2nd hdc made. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 ch sts, 1 sc in ea of the next 2 treble sts. (1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch sts, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts. *

Align the second motif with the first, making sure the two WS are facing each other. Align the 3rd single crochet stitch from the left of the leftmost treble shell (or the right of the rightmost if you are a leftie) with the corresponding stitch on the second motif. Work one sc through both stitches at once. Begin to work the Rnd 10 pattern from * to * on the second motif, working ONLY the stitches of the second motif, and working in the direction of the nearest treble shell. To end the round, insert hook through the next sc and through the corresponding stitch of the opposite motif (the third sc left of the leftmost treble shell, or right of the rightmost if you are a leftie). Work a sl stitch through both stitches at once.  Do not tie off.

The following instructions work down the side of the two mandala motifs, constructing a join made of chaining and sc back and forth between the two motifs. This is described in Part 2 of the Joining Video Tutorial below, as well as in the charts pictured 🙂

Rnd 11: Keeping both motifs aligned, the motif on top (facing you) will be referred to as #1. The motif in back (further away from you) will be #2. You will be working a fagoting stitch join between the two motifs. (See fig 5 for chart)Working away from the nearest treble shell, ch 3 and sc in the next Ch-5 space of #2. Ch 3, sc in the corresponding ch-5 space of #1. Ch 5, sc in the next ch-8 space of #2. Ch 5, sc in the corresponding space of #1. Ch 5, sc in the next ch-4 space of #2, Ch 5, sc in the corresponding space of #1. Ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 space of #2, ch 5, sc in the corresponding ch-7 space on #1 – fagoting join completed. Chain 8. Continuing only on #1, (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8)  49 times. (Beginning of next join) Sc in the next ch-7  space on #1, ch 5.  Sc in the corresponding space on #2, ch 5. Sc in the next ch space of #1, ch 5, sc in the corresponding space of #2, ch 5. Sc in the next ch space of #1, ch 5. Sc in the corresponding chain space of #2. Ch 5, sc in the next chain space of #1. Ch 3, sc in the corresponding space of #2, ch 3. Join with a sl stitch to the joining stitch of Rnd 10. Cut yarn and tie off.

Rnd 11 makes up an extra row on the tunic, making one side slightly longer. This longer side is now the back side. Rnd 12 is worked in a single round around the bottom, including both front and back as two halves of the same round.

Rnd 12:  With RS facing, join new yarn in the 3rd ch-8 space from the last ch-5 in the fagoting join on the back half of the top. Ch 3 to count as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. *2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4. Yarn over and draw up a lp through the next ch-8 space, yo and draw through 2 lps on the hook. Yarn over and draw up a loop through the next free chain space (skipping ch-5 of fagoting join and the ch space it is attached to). Yarn over and draw through 2 lps on the hook. Yarn over and draw through the last 3 lps on the hook. Ch 4. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 46 times.* Rpt from * to *. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. Cut yarn and tie off. – 97 ch spaces total.

Proceed to Straps Instructions

Instructions for Size X-Large

Follow instructions for size Large for Rounds 1-5.

Rnd 6: Ch 4 – counts as first treble, tr in the same space, ch 7. (2 tr in the next chain space, ch 7) 38 times. 2 treble in the next chain space, ch 3. Tr in the 4th ch of beg ch-4. 40 chain spaces made.

Rnd 7: Ch 4 – counts as first treble, tr in the same space, ch 8. (2 tr in the next chain space, ch 8) 39 times. Join with a sl st to the 4th ch of beg ch-4. cut yarn and tie off. 40 chain spaces made.

Rnd 8: Join new yarn in any ch-8 space. Ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) 2 times. Work (2 trtr, ch 8) twice in the next ch-8 space. (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) 4 times.  Work (2 trtr, ch 8) twice in the next ch-8 space.  (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) 30 times. Work 2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4, tr in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 42 chain spaces made.

Rnd 9: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 5) 2 times. Sc in the next space, ch 8. (2 treble crochet, ch 8) twice in the next ch-8 space – 1st treble shell made. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 5) 4 times. Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8. (2 treble crochet, ch 8) twice in the next ch-8 space- 2nd treble shell made. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 5) 3 times. Sc in the next space, ch 8. (Dc in the next ch sp, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 26 times. Dc in the next ch space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 8. Join with a sl st in the first sc of the round. 71 chain spaces made. Cut yarn and tie off.

Rpt Rnds 1-9 for second motif.

The following instructions work the sc border across the top half of both of the mandala motifs. This is mostly covered in the Part 1 of the Mandala Top Joining Video Tutorial, included at the bottom of the page.

Rnd 10 (Joining):   Join new color in the same sc as the ending join of Rnd 9, sc in the same space. *(1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in the next sc) 3 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 8 ch stitches, 1 sc in each of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 ch stitches, 3 hdc in the next ch stitch – place marker in the 2nd hdc made. 1 sc in ea of the next 3 ch stitches and in ea of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in ea of the next 8 ch stitches.  (1 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch sts) 5 times. Sc in the next sc and in ea of the next 8 ch sts.  1 sc in ea of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in each of the next 3 ch stitches, 3 hdc in the next ch st – place marker in 2nd hdc made, 1 sc in ea of the next 4 ch sts, 1 sc in ea of the next 2 treble sts.  1 sc in ea of the next 8 ch sts. (1 sc in the next sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch sts) 3 times. *

Align the second motif with the first, making sure the two WS are facing each other. Align the 4th single crochet stitch from the left of the leftmost treble shell (or the right of the rightmost if you are a leftie) with the corresponding stitch on the second motif. This should be the next stitch to be worked after finishing the Rnd 10 instructions above. Work one sc through both stitches at once. Begin to work the Rnd 10 pattern from * to * on the second motif, working ONLY the stitches of the second motif, and working in the direction of the nearest treble shell. To end the round, insert hook through the next sc and through the corresponding stitch of the opposite motif (the 4th sc left of the leftmost treble shell, or right of the rightmost if you are a leftie). Work a sl stitch through both stitches at once. Do not tie off.

The following instructions work down the side of the two mandala motifs, constructing a join made of chaining and sc back and forth between the two motifs. This is described in Part 2 of the Joining Video Tutorial below, as well as in the charts pictured 🙂

Rnd 11: Keeping both motifs aligned, the motif on top (facing you) will be referred to as #1. The motif in back (further away from you) will be #2. You will be working a fagoting stitch join between the two motifs. (See fig 6 for chart) Working away from the nearest treble shell, ch 5 and sc in the next Ch-8 space of #2. (Ch 5, sc in the next chain space of #1. Ch 5, sc in the next chain space of #2.) 3 times. Ch 5, sc in the next chain space of #1. Ch 8. (Fagoting join made). Working only in #1, (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 47 times. (Beginning of next join) Sc in the next chain space, ch 5. Sc in the corresponding space on #2, ch 5.  (Sc in the next chain space of #1, ch 5. Sc in the corresponding ch space of #2, ch 5) 3 times. Join with a slip stitch in the motif-join sc of Rnd 10. Cut yarn and tie off.

Rnd 11 makes up an extra row on the tunic, making one side slightly longer. This longer side is now the back side. Rnd 12 is worked in a single round around the bottom, including both front and back as two halves of the same round.

Rnd 12:  With RS facing, join new yarn in the 3rd ch-8 space from the last ch-5 in the fagoting join on the back half of the top. Ch 3 to count as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) twice. *2 dc in the next ch-5 space – the last chain space of the fagoting join, ch 8. 2 dc in the next unworked chain space, ch 8.* (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 46 times.* Rpt from * to *. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 44 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. Cut yarn and tie off. – 93 ch spaces total.

Proceed to the Straps Instructions 🙂

Straps Instructions

For more detailed instructions on working the Double Chain technique, see my free tutorial here.

If you plan on making the Drop Sleeves pattern add-on, work the following extra DCh stitches on each strap. In case you need to adjust the length, do not weave in the ends.

Small & Medium: 10 extra DCh

Large: 13 extra DCh

X-Large: 15 extra Dch

Attach new yarn to the hdc marked with a stitch marker on any of the points on your motifs, ch 1. Sc in the same space as join (#1). Work 1 double chain into the side of the single crochet stitch (#2). DCh 24 (#3). Insert hook into the side of last DCh stitch and also through the corresponding marked hdc on the opposite motif and draw up a loop (#4). Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook (#5). Secure with a sl st in the next hdc of the motif. Cut yarn and tie off, repeat on the other side for the second strap. Weave in all ends.

Mandala Top Joining Tutorial Video: Part 1

This video starts at the joining round, which is Round 10 for Medium – XL and Rnd 9 for Small.

Mandala Top Joining Tutorial Video: Part 2

Once you’ve finished with your Mandala Top, weave in all ends. This piece looks best if you take the bottom hem and gently stretch the mesh downward, especially at the side joins, to get all the stitches to settle in that direction – creating a nice drapey shape. Pulling out the bottom loops and letting them settle makes a huge difference in the appearance of the finished crochet mesh!

This post got a little long with the main part of the Mandala Top, so I’m going to post the Mandala Top Add-Ons FREE pattern in another post, coming right up! If you have any questions, be sure to leave them in the comments for me or contact me via direct message on any of my social media sites!

-MF

P.S – After I finished the original Mandala Top design years ago, I began to play around with the possibility of adding sleeves and making it more of a layering sweater dress – and thus the Flower Child Pullover was born! You can find that design as a paid PDF in my Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop – in case you are interested 😉