PBT: Cell Phone Pocket

This post is part of a series of tutorials on how to create your own unique crochet pixie pocket belt – to read more about this series visit theΒ Intro page.

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I often like to leave my technology behind when I go wandering in the forest, but hey, sometime’s a pixie’s gotta stay connected. That’s why I named this special pocket style the Cell Phone pocket, because it’s the perfect addition to a crochet utility belt that needs room for a phone!

Of course, this in-the-round style rectangular pouch is just really fun and simple to make on its own, so no tech required if you prefer to stow other treasures inside πŸ™‚

Cell Phone Pocket

3.75 mm Hook
Ch 12 (or the length you think will fit your phone, plus a little extra – you don’t want it too tight)
1. Hdc in 3rd ch from the hook and in ea st down the chain. 3 hdc in the final ch st. Rotate the piece, then hdc in each ch stitch (inserting hk into bottom loop). Work 2 hdc in the final ch st. Join with a slip stitch

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2. Ch 2 (does not count as first hdc) hdc in ea hdc, across, working 3 hdc in the central hdc of the 3-hdc turn at the end. Hdc across again, work 3 hdc in the central stitch of the previous 3-hdc turn at the end. Join with a sl st

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Check to see if this will comfortably fit your phone. If not, add another round with increases at both ends. If it’s lookin’ good, just work rounds evenly without increases.

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Don’t look at how dirty my phone is.

3. Hdc even for as many rounds as necessary.

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I did about 13, then added a roomy loop so that it can secure my phone by catching on a button which I planned to add to the front. Pretty sweet right? Weave in all your ends, then stash this baby with the rest of your pockets until you’re ready to add them on!

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I hope you enjoyed this little bonus round of the Pixie Belt Tutorial! I loved making this belt especially because THIS one’s for me πŸ˜‰ I’ve never made myself one before so I thought it was high time ❀

-MF

 

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PBT: One Piece Circular Pocket

This post is part of a series of tutorials on how to create your own unique crochet pixie pocket belt – to read more about this series visit theΒ Intro page.

One Piece Circular Pocket

Most of the crochet utility belts I make have circle pockets – I love their potential as a canvas for other shapes like mandalas, simple embroidery, or shell flower petals. Plus, I’m just really into circles.

While I’ve created a tutorial for circle pockets that utilize two flat circle shapes sewn together, I often prefer to create them in a single piece – this tutorial shows how!

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Begin by working a colorful, non-continuous circle as shown in this section of the tutorial series.Β Shown here is my version for the belt I’ve been working on, “Dogwood”.

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As you can see, I’ve got some crazy stuff going on in there, including some overlay stitches and textural bobbles, plus a resin cabochon that I appliqued on with a crochet cover. But the basic structure is the same, using regular increases to make a flat circle and going up to 60 or so stitches, which means following in pattern until you Inc on 10 (see Circle Pockets Part 1 for more on creating flat circles).

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Once I reach my desired size, I prepare to shape the circle. To do this, I’m going to add a few rows of sc even in the round, meaning I’ll just crochet around the circle without adding any increases or working any joins. This will add depth to your circle so that the pocket is rounded and not flat. BUT, you have to keep in mind you’ll need an opening in your pocket, so at some point you’ll chain a number (I think I did around 13-15) and skip the same number of stitches before continuing to crochet.

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On the next round, single crochet right over the chain as normal. Now you have the opening worked out, so you will work a few more rounds of sc even, then begin to decrease at the same rate that you increased in the front.

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If you plan on adding a button fastening, don’t forget to crochet either a loop or a buttonhole into one of the rounds behind the opening on the back of your pocket! I almost forgot, which is why my loop is larger and set further back πŸ˜‰

Since my pocket went up to “Inc on 10” I’ll start shaping the back of my pocket by decreasing on 10, using the same counting strategy as the increases:

Dec on 10 (or count out 9 stitches, then use the 10th and 11th sts to work a sc decrease)
Dec on 9 (count out 8 sts, use the 9th and 10th sts to dec)
Dec on 8 (etc…)

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The back of the circle pocket will start to close up. When you can’t decrease anymore, you’ll need to cut a long yarn tail and tie off your stitches. Thread the yarn tail on a tapestry needle and secure the closing circle by stitching through it back and forth a few times.

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Weave in all your ends, and sew on a button or fastening, beads, or anything you like!

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Hope you enjoyed this little bonus edition of the Pixie Belt Tutorial – keep sending me pictures because I love seeing what you make! Hit me up on my Facebook page:
Morale Fiber on Facebook

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-MF

 

Curvy Bralette Tutorial

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Last summer I designed a simple beginner bralette-style crochet top with the aim of creating a fun basic piece that could be altered easily – the Basic Bralette Tutorial! Since then, it’s been on my list to create some modified versions, especially one that is better for curvier busts πŸ™‚

Update! 7/17/2019: This modification and the pattern for the original are now both available in one downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF! Get more info by clicking here!

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The flattish triangle style cups are great because they can be expanded to any size, but to fit best over bigger chests they need some edging to curve them inward a little – which is what we’re doing today with the Curvy Bralette Tutorial. ❀ ❀

You can find this design linked in the Ravelry database, or on my Pinterest crochet board – so throw me a like or a pin if you enjoy it πŸ™‚

Curvy Bralette Tutorial Pattern

Materials

3.50 mm hook
#4 weight cotton yarn (although you can make it with any weight yarn / hook size combo as long as you know your gauge) 1-3 skeins depending on size made
Stitch markers
Scissors & Tapestry Needle
Measuring Tape

Measurements
Band Size (measured around the rib cage just under the bust): For example, my measurement would be 32”
Measurement A : (Band size β€œ / 4) – 2” = Length of each side of completed triangle cup ( My example would be [32 / 4] – 2 = 6”). Therefore, my Measurement A = 6β€³
Measurement B:  (Measurement A) / 2 = My Measurement B would be 3”

Gauge:

You can have differing gauges for this project, as long as you know what your gauge is in order to achieve the right measurements. Follow the gauge-finding instructions in the Basic Bralette post.

To begin, follow the instructions for the Basic Bralette from the two triangle cups all the way through the Row 3 repeats of the band, then stop – do not tie off.

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Edging:

  1. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch-1), rotate the piece so that you are working into the side of the stitches on the row ends. (Dc into the side of the next st, ch 2, sk next st) 2 times. Dc into the side of the last stitch.
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2. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch-1). Rotate your piece so that you are working into the next un-edged side. Dc in the same stitch, ch-1 to turn the corner.

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3. (Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next st, ch-1) repeat across the row until you reach the corner of the cup.

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4. Sk next 2 sts and the dc on the bottom row of the cup. Dc into the top of the first unworked dc on the side of the cup, as shown. Ch 1. (Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next st, ch-1) along the side of the cup.

5. (Dc, ch 1) 2 times in the top corner of the cup, in the ch-2 space. Depending on how many dc’s you have in each side of the cup, you might want to place a dc, ch-1 in the stitches right before and after this space. Since this is where the ties will go, it isn’t good for it to be too tight.

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6. (Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next st, ch 1) along the next side of the cup. A few stitches before the end, skip to the next cup, making sure there are an equal amount of skipped stitches on either side so it is mirrored. The more you skip, the tighter the cups will be, so you can customize based on your size.

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7. Repeat the same process over the other cup’s 2 sides, mirroring the first half: Work 2 (dc, ch 1) repeats in the other cup’s top corner, (dc, ch 1, sk 2 sts) down the side skipping the same amount of stitches at the corner, then across the top of the band. Dc, ch 2, dc in the same stitch at the corner. (Ch 2, sk next st, dc in the side of the next dc) across the row ends at the side of the band. Dc in the last dc -I added an extra dc in this stitch too to make it more even with the bottom band.)

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8. Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch-1). Turn, (dc in the next ch space, ch-1) across the last row of edging until you reach the corner. (Dc, ch 1) 3 times in the corner space.

9. (Dc in the next space, ch 1) all across the last row of edging in the bralette, placing (dc, ch 1) repeats at the top corners of the cups. I left the top corners free, because I used t-shirt yarn ties for this one, but if you’re crocheting your ties, add them on by chaining the length you want, then slip stitching back down the chain to return to the top corner of the cup. The Ties need to be long enough to cross over the back, and criss-cross the openings on the band sides to adjust it:

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10. To make it strappy: after chaining your strap (or not), chain Anchor your yarn with a dc in the first stitch of the next cup side. Count the amount of stitches left in the side of the cup – I have 8 repeats of (dc, ch 1) so altogether that’s 16 stitches. Chain your number, then skip the cup side and single crochet in the center ch-1 space. Chain the same number again, then skip to the last dc of the next side of the cup, dc in that stitch.

Repeat the edging across the rest of the bralette, mirroring the first side, all the way to across the band side, then cut yarn and tie off.  Weave in all your ends, then rock on!

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-MF

Mandala Tam Free Pattern

 

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The free pattern I’m offering today is a rework of a design I’ve been using for ages! I started making these netted caps way back when I had white girl dreads, to keep my hair out of my way while traveling. After I got rid of the ‘locks, I kept using this style of hat as a pretty way to keep damp hair out of the cold or just when I didn’t feel like messing with the tresses at all πŸ˜›

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This pattern was formerly my Mini Mandala Slouchy Tam, which was initially a paid pattern. However, I felt it needed updated and decided to offer it in its newest version for free on my blog instead of as a PDF – but it still has all the same features, including THREE sizes (the largest size fits quite a large amount of hair), fun and easy written instructions, and a quick finishing time to get a really useful and pretty little accessory!

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Materials:
5.00 mm hook, 6.50 mm hook
Yarn: Any #4 weight yarn, 1-2 skeins – yarn pictured is Red Heart Unforgettable Waves.
Main Gauge: 3 ½” in diameter at the end of Rnd 3
Post Stitch Gauge: 6 sts = 2” in FPDC/BPDC pattern Make sure to check your gauge and use hook size needed to obtain gauge listed.

Techniques:

Chain (ch)
Double Crochet (dc)
Single Crochet (sc)
Half Double crochet (hdc)
Post Stitches: See my tutorial here.
Chain and stitch join: A technique that uses a combination of chain stitches and regular crochet stitches to form the last loop of a mesh round – more detailed instructions are available in my tutorial here.

Notes:Β Photo tutorial is available for small size – many of the round techniques are the same throughout the sizes, so refer to size small for pictures πŸ™‚

Mandala Tam – Small

Ch 5.
Rnd 1: (Dc, ch 1) 11 times into the 5th ch from the hook. Join with a sl stitch in to the 3rd ch of beginning ch4. – 12 dc, 12 ch-1 sps

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Rnd 2: (Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 4) 11 times. Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 1. Dc into the first sc of the round. This creates a ch-4 sized loop with your hook positioned at the middle of the space. (For more instructions on how to do this type of join, check out my Chain and Stitch Join Tutorial) – 12 loops

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Rnd 3: Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 4) 10 times. Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 1. Dc in the first sc of the round. – 12 loops

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Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in the same space, ch 4. (2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 4) 10 times. 2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 1, dc in the 3rd chain of beg ch-3. – 24 dc, 12 ch-4 sps

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Rnd 5: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5, sc in the same space, ch 5. Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5) 5 times. Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5, sc in the same space, ch 2. Dc in the first sc of the round. – 18 ch-5 loops

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Rnd 6: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 5) 16 times. Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 2. Dc in the first sc of the round. – 18 ch-5 loops
Rnd 7: Rpt Rnd 6.

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Rnd 8: Rpt round 6.
Rnd 9: Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in the next chain space, ch 4) 16 times. Sc in the next chain space, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 18 ch-4 loops

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Rnd 10: Rpt Rnd 9
Rnd 11: Rpt Rnd 9
Rnd 12: Sc in the same space, ch 3. (Sc in the next chain space, ch 3) 16 times. Sc in the next chain space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 18 ch-3 loops
Rnd 13: Rpt round 12.
Rnd 14: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in the same sp. (Dc in the next sc, 3 dc in the next ch-3 space) 17 times. Dc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next chain space. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 72 Dc

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Rnd 15: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc), FPDC in the same stitch. 1 FPDC in ea of the next2 sts. (1 BPDC in ea of the next 3 sts, 1 FPDC in ea of the next 3 sts) 11 times. 1 BPDC in ea of the next 3 sts. Join with a sl st in the top of the first FPDC of the round.

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Rnd 16: Rpt round 15.
Rnd 17: Slip stitch loosely in each stitch around. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Position the button over the join stitches where the beginning and end of the last round meets and sew on using the yarn tail. Weave in all ends.

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Strap:
With a 6.50 mm hook

Row 1: Join new yarn into the side of the post stitches 15 stitches away. 2 dc in the side of the first stitch, 1 dc in the side of the next st, 1 dc in the side of the next st.
Rows 2-4: Ch 3, turn. Dc in the next 4 stitches.

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Row 5: Ch 3, turn. Dc3tog over the next 3 sts. Dc in the last st.

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Row 6: Turn without chaining, slip st in the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

Weave in all ends. Use the spaces between the double crochet stitches to slip over your button and tighten the hat as necessary.
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Mandala Tam – Medium (Slouchy)

Ch 5.
Rnd 1: (Dc, ch 1) 11 times into the 5th ch from the hook. Join with a sl stitch in to the 3rd ch of beginning ch4. – 12 dc, 12 ch-1 sps
Rnd 2: (Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 4) 11 times. Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 1. Dc into the first sc of the round. This creates a ch-4 sized loop with your hook positioned at the middle of the space. (For more instructions on how to do this type of join, check out my Chain and Stitch Join Tutorial) – 12 loops
Rnd 3: Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 4) 10 times. Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 1. Dc in the first sc of the round. – 12 loops
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in the same space, ch 4. (2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 4) 10 times. 2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 1, dc in the 3rd chain of beg ch-3. – 24 dc, 12 ch-4 sps
Rnd 5: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5, sc in the same space, ch 5. Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5) 5 times. Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5, sc in the same space, ch 2. Dc in the first sc of the round. – 18 ch-5 loops
Rnd 6: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 5) 16 times. Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 2. Dc in the first sc of the round. – 18 ch-5 loops
Rnd 7-9: Rpt Rnd 6.
Rnd 10: Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in the next chain space, ch 4) 16 times. Sc in the next chain space, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 18 ch-4 loops
Rnd 11-13: Rpt Rnd 10
Rnd 14: Sc in the same space, ch 3. (Sc in the next chain space, ch 3) 16 times. Sc in the next chain space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 18 ch-3 loops
Rnd 15: Rpt round 14.
Rnd 16: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in the same sp. (Dc in the next sc, 3 dc in the next ch-3 space) 17 times. Dc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next chain space. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 72 Dc
(See tutorial on post stitches located below the pattern for instructions on FPDC and BPDC)
Rnd 17: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc), FPDC in the same stitch. 1 FPDC in ea of the next 2 sts. (1 BPDC in ea of the next 3 sts, 1 FPDC in ea of the next 3 sts) 11 times. 1 BPDC in ea of the next 3 sts. Join with a sl st in the top of the first FPDC of the round.
Rnd 18: Rpt round 17.
Rnd 19: Slip stitch loosely in each stitch around. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Position the button over the join stitches where the beginning and end of the last round meets and sew on using the yarn tail. Weave in all ends.

Strap:
With a 6.50 mm hook

Row 1: Join new yarn into the side of the post stitches 15 stitches away. 2 dc in the side of the first stitch, 1 dc in the side of the next st, 1 dc in the side of the next st.
Rows 2-4: Ch 3, turn. Dc in the next 4 stitches.
Row 5: Ch 3, turn. Dc3tog over the next 3 sts. Dc in the last st.
Row 6: Turn without chaining, slip st in the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

Weave in all ends.

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Mandala Tam –Β  Large (Slouchiest)

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As you can see, this tam fits A LOT of hair underneath! Great for the really dready folks out there πŸ™‚

Ch 5.
Rnd 1: (Dc, ch 1) 11 times into the 5th ch from the hook. Join with a sl stitch in to the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4.
Rnd 2: (Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 4) 11 times. Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 2. Hdc into the first sc of the round. This creates a ch-4 sized loop with your hook positioned at the middle of the space.
Rnd 3: Sc in the same ch-4 space, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 4) 10 times. Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 2. Hdc in the first sc of the round.
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in the same space, ch 4. (2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 4) 10 times. 2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 1, dc in the 3rd chain of beg ch-3.
Rnd 5: Repeat round 4.
Rnd 6: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5, sc in the same space, ch 5. Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5) 5 times. Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5, sc in the same space, ch 2. Dc in the first sc of the round.
Rnd 7: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 5) 16 times. Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 2. Dc in the first sc of the round.
Rnd 8: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 5, sc in the same space, ch 5. Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 5) 8 times. Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 5, sc in the same space, ch 2. Dc in the first sc of the round.
Rnd 9: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 5) 26 times. Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 2. Dc in the first sc of the round.
Rnds 10-13: Rpt round 9.
Rnd 14: Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in the next chain space, ch 4) 26 times. Sc in the next chain space, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round.
Rnd 15-18: Rpt round 14.
Rnd 19: Sc in the same space, ch 3. (Sc in the next chain space, ch 3) 26 times. Sc in the next chain space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round.
Rnds 20 – 23: Rpt round 19.
Rnd 24: Ch 3. (Dc in the next sc, 2 dc in the next ch-3 space) 27 times. Dc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next chain space. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
Rnd 25: Ch 3, FPDC in the same stitch. 1 FPDC in ea of the next 2 sts. (1 BPDC in ea of the next 3 sts, 1 FPDC in ea of the next 3 sts) 13 times. 1 FPDC in ea of the next 3 sts. Join with a sl st in the top of the first FPDC of the round.
Rnd 26: Rpt round 25.
Rnd 27: Slip stitch in each stitch around. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Strap:
With a 6.50 mm hook

Row 1: Join new yarn into the side of the post stitches 15 stitches away. 2 dc in the side of the first stitch, 1 dc in the side of the next st, 1 dc in the side of the next st.
Rows 2-4: Ch 3, turn. Dc in the next 4 stitches.
Row 5: Ch 3, turn. Dc3tog over the next 3 sts. Dc in the last st.
Row 6: Turn without chaining, slip st in the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

Weave in all ends.

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I hope you find this hat as useful and cute as I do! As you can see, I like to go back and give old designs a fresh coat of paint when I think they need it – its one of the ways I really enjoy my work, because I get to revisit things I love and reinvent them continually.

-MF

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Daydreamer Poncho Pattern

Merry Day of the Dead! Today’s offering is a brand new PDF crochet pattern that I had (ahem) originally scheduled to release in August. Ha ha! Life.

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No worries here though because the Daydreamer Poncho is SUPER versatile as a layering piece and looks just as stunning worn over long sleeves and outerwear as it does over tank tops and dresses!Β  You can get this fresh design in my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern Store for 5.95 USD πŸ™‚

More details on the pattern below!

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Daydreamer Poncho

Embrace your inner hippie with this dreamy lace poncho; easy and quick to work up using worsted weight yarn and a 5.50 mm hook. The mesh construction makes this a perfect lightweight layering piece that flatters the wearer with a fitted shoulder, A-line shape, and a fluttery fringe at the hem.

Featuring textural stitches in alternating colors and gradually widening chain loop pattern inspired by crocheted dreamcatchers, you can proudly wear this handmade piece in any season. The ribbed post stitch collar is finished with a drawstring cord topped by yarn-fringe “feathers”. The instructions for the Daydreamer Poncho come complete with detailed written pattern including tons of quality color tutorial photos, numbered and referenced in the text so that all the techniques are illustrated and easy to follow!

Materials

5.50 mm (I) hook

Yarn: Lion Brand Jeans (#4 weight, 3.5 oz / 100g, 246 yd, 100% acrylic)
Color A: Vintage – 1 skein
Color B: Jumpsuit – 1 skein
Color C: Top Stitch – 1 skein
Color D:Β  Khaki – 1 skein
Color E: Stonewash- 1 skein
Color F: Stovepipe – 1 skein

Scissors
Tapestry Needle
6” length of cardboard, book, or tassel maker for fringe

Final Dimensions:
Collar: 18” without drawstring
Length: 22” unstretched, not including fringe

All instructions written in US terms

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You will love love love this pattern as much as I do, it’s so fun to make and has a ton of potential for scrapbusting if you don’t feel like splurging on new yarn – made with worsted weight and designed for color changes, there is endless possibilities! Of course, I’d love to try it in monochrome too…

As usual, too much inspiration, not enough time πŸ˜›Β  Enjoy the rest of the silly photoshoot I did for this pattern, and I hope it inspires you too!

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I just couldn’t be more grateful for all the wonderful comments and support you guys leave me here and on social media – you’re the reason I get to keep doing this! So much love ❀

If you’d like to see more Morale Fiber, check out my social media channels:

Facebook
Twitter
Instagram
Tumblr

Thank you!!
-MF

PBT: Attaching the Pockets

This post is part of a series of tutorials on how to create your own unique crochet pixie pocket belt – to read more about this series visit theΒ Intro page.

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So far we’ve covered basic shapes in the form of pockets such as circles, squares & rectangles, triangles, and cones – now it’s time to take all the pockets and attach them to the belt base using slip stitch crochet. Like the rest of this project, there is no strictly “right” way to do this, but I’ve included lots of process photos to show how I manage this part.

I prefer the look of pockets mounted directly onto the belt, with the backs up against the belt itself. I also always double-mount my pockets, using two lines of slip stitching, one at the top and one in the middle, to attach the pockets to the belt base. This is not absolutely necessary if you want to skip the second mount (the middle mount is the trickiest part of this) but it does make them really sturdy.Β  I have seen my festival friends put these things through the wringer with use – and they hold up!

If you need more inspiration on the ways you can assemble the belt, remember to check out my Pinterest board featuring crochet utility belts!

Attaching the Pockets to the Belt

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To begin the final stage of crochet for the pocket belt, lay out your belt base and grab all of your completed pockets. Decide how to place the pockets, arranging them along the belt base in whatever manner strikes your fancy – I like the pockets to sit near the ends, but sometimes they are all over the place. Here, because I’m featuring a bustle back, I keep them corralled near the ends so as not to cover the back of the skirt.

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The first step is to get a yarn and start slip stitching across the top of the belt base. I am using a really textured yarn for this part, just to add a little extra crazy.

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Here, I’m just slip stitching across the top of the belt until I get to a place where I’d like to put a pocket. Keep slip stitching, but now work through two layers – the top edge of the pocket (the back part only, since you don’t want to stitch the pocket closed) and the top edge of the belt base.

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This is the first attachment. Keep slip stitching until you want to place another pocket.

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Then, slip stitch across the pocket and belt simultaneously again.

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For drawstring pockets like this one, make sure you leave enough pocket unattached for it to be able to close nicely.

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Keep slip stitching and attaching pockets until you reach the opposite end of the belt.

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For the envelope-style pocket, I decide to make the slip stitch attaching underneath the top flap – so I open it up and stitch through the pocket layer and the belt layer underneath.

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At the end, I rotate and work one row of the side of the belt base, then rotate again and start to slip stitch across the middle of the belt, placing my stitches in between the double crochets that make up the middle row.

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Attaching in the middle can require some really creative maneuvering on the part of the hook-wielder. In fact, this part is more like guerilla fiber-punk yarn wrestling. So be prepared for that! πŸ˜€

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To work the second row of attaching, slip stitch until you reach a pocket. With the back of the pocket facing you, insert your hook into the stitching and back out on the other side of a single stitch, catching the post of the stitch with your hook.

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Then, insert the hook through the middle of the belt. Yarn over and draw this loop through the belt, the post of the pocket stitching, and the loop on your hook, making one slip stitch through two layers.

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Continue this process for at least part of the back of the pocket. When you’ve attached enough of the back of the pocket, keep slip stitching through just the belt layer as normal until you reach the next pocket, then work through both layers in the same manner again.

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Here you can see the back of the slip stitching of the second row on the inside of a pocket – just enough to hold them down and make sure they are extra secure.

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The pockets are now attached!

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After working the second round of attaching, I like to do one more row of slip stitching into the same stitches across the top of the belt, just for extra firmness (to reduce yarn stretching on the belt base) and to add more color and depth. Here I’ll change colors, then just work a simple line of slip stitching all the way across, right next to the first line of slip stitches (or wherever… FREEFORM!!)

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After this last finishing touch, I’m DONE with the crochet portion of the belt! Time to weave in my ends, then tackle the final step: the fabric fringe skirt. After that post, I’ll do a final reveal and wrap-up – I can’t wait to show the final product πŸ™‚

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-MF

PBT: Pointed Pouch

This post is part of a series of tutorials on how to create your own unique crochet pixie pocket belt – to read more about this series visit theΒ Intro page.

Shaping Circular Crochet

The following is a basic overview of the geometry of shaping circular crochet, which I’ll use in the next section to create this fun pixie pouch!

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In circular crochet, your increases represent building β€œoutward” to add to the circumference of the object, while your stitches represent building β€œupward” to add to the diameter/radius of the circle. If you don’t increase at the same rate as you add rows of stitches, your circle will start to tighten inward because you don’t have enough circumference to allow it to keep building outward. This is used to our advantage to make fun shapes – adding rows where you don’t increase periodically will change the way your piece is shaped, and you can make fun points and spheres and all sorts of things.

On the other hand, adding too many increases per round will make your circumference too full, and your piece will start to ruffle at the edges on the same principle as making we saw making ruffles and curlicues.

Additionally, the HEIGHT of your stitch will change the required rate of increase – so if you want to start a flat circle in double crochet instead of single crochet, you can’t start with the same number as you would with sc, because you are starting with a greater height so it requires a greater circumference – I generally use 12 dc to start a flat circle, and add 12 inc every round to keep it flat. On the same principle, if I want to start a pointed conical piece in dc, starting with 6 dc is ideal because it begins with a nice taper.

Manipulated circles is how I make many of my utilityΒ belt pockets, including the one here! So, let’s get started.

Pointed Pixie Pouch

Notes: I’m using a 3.5 mm hook and some handspun yarn I’ve had forever, and doing non-continuous circular crochet, which means I’m using a chain-3 length to begin (not counting as first dc) and using slip stitch in the first dc to end each round. I have left the beginning and end instructions off the shorthand pattern because they are the same for each round.

MR (Magic Ring – covered in PBT: Circle Pocket Part 1)

  1. 6 dc into the ring. Tighten ring. – 6 dc

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I want this pouch to be pretty pointy at the bottom, so I’ll add another row of dc without increasing.
2. Dc even – 6 dc

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Next, I want to start increasing as I move upward to make the pouch big enough to put things into, but at this point I have a pretty tight round of dc. If I increase at the same rate that I started (adding 6 stitches for the next round, or increasing in ea stitch) I will end up with an abrupt change in circumference.

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If you like the bulbous look, no problem, but I want to make my change smoother and more gradual, so I will be increasing at half the rate here – or adding 3 stitches for every increase round.
3. Inc on 2 – 9 dc

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To continue the gradual lengthening, I add another non-increasing round.
4. Dc even – 9 dc

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Then another 3 stitch increase round.
5. Inc on 3 – 12 dc

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Then even again.
6. Dc even – 12 dc

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Now, I’m going to prepare to fatten this puppy up. That means I’m going to do two rounds in a row that each increase by three, creatingΒ  a less gradual change in circumference – that will bring me up to 18 dc..
7. Inc on 4 – 15 dc
8. Inc on 5 – 18 dc

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…18 dc is divisible by 6, so I can now start increasing by 6 on each increase round to make a bulbous shape and a bigger part of the pouch. Since 18 divided by 6 is three, I will go back to increasing every 3 stitches to make a total of 6 stitches added to this round.

9. Inc on 3 – 24 dc.
10. Inc on 4 – 30 dc.
11. Inc on 5 – 36 dc.
12. Inc on 6 – 42 dc.
13. Dc even – 42 dc.
14. Dc even – 42 dc.
15. Dec (decrease, or dc2tog) on 6 – 36 dc
16. Ch 3 (counts as first hdc + ch 1), sk next st, *hdc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st* around.
17. 2 sc in ea sp around

 

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Cut yarn and tie off. I left a row full of chain-1 spaces at the top of the pouch so that I’d have some place to string the little drawstring through. To make the drawstring, just chain a length and tie off, then weave it through the spaces. I like to finish mine with little simple tassels to hide the yarn tails.

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I also attached a bead by using a tapestry needle and a spare length of yarn and simply sewing it onto the pouch for a little extra decoration.

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There you have the third and final pocket I will be completing for this particular belt!Β  In the next post of this series, I’ll be demonstrating how to finally attach these pockets to the belt base.

The drawstring pouch style pockets are super useful and can also be a great place to feature a special yarn or texture. Here are some other examples of pouches I’ve made in this style:

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“Mulberry” features a few little bells sewn on to the point and the drawstring ties

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A simple rounded pouch starts out with a flat circle for the bottomΒ 

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The drawstring pouch for this belt uses yarn scraps and a leather cord for the tie

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Extra-fancy pouches went into making “Kelp” – A conical pouch forms the base onto which I added surface textures to create a shell shape. The rounded pouch features a common freeform technique called bullion stitch!