The Only Constant

One of my favorite sayings goes “The only constant is change.”

It reminds me that the live happily in life, you always need to acknowledge the shifting nature of it. If you go along expecting everything to be the same, always resisting when forced to take paths that you didn’t intend, life and it’s transformative progress will seem to be a battle.

One of my other favorite sayings goes “Man plans, god laughs” πŸ˜‰

I’ll be reflecting in this post about what I’ve been doing with Morale Fiber over the past year – it’s more of a diary entry really, collecting my thoughts and tipping you off for what’s on the horizon for my designs!

2020 – Plague Year

It’s obviously been a weird one. In addition to switching my business from part-time to full-time in 2020, just a few months into the year Corona Virus struck and my proximity to at-risk loved ones made self-employment more imperative than usual. Still luckily things are going well, and I created & maintained my schedule for the year which included 6 written patterns, 4 tutorials, 2 brand new free hat patterns, 3 remodeled patterns, and lots more crochet morale boosting!

I’ve got a couple projects/designs in the works to finish off the year’s production list, and I’m now into my normal “holidays” phase of the year, despite the lack of holiday events upcoming (stupid plague).

YouTube Channel (& SALE!!)

One of the biggest efforts I made this year was reaching my goal of monetizing my YouTube Channel, which I’ve been developing as quickly as my creaky, video-hating old bones can manage. But I did make that goal also, thanks to all the watchers & subscribers, so I’m holding a special pattern sale as a thank-you!

All PDF versions of the full-length patterns available on my YouTube Channel (and a few that are all written PDF but have video component tutorials) are ON SALE for 50% off now through November 15 on Ravelry ❀ ❀ Here’s a list of the patterns on sale, linked to Ravelry – use the code “YOUTUBE” at checkout to get the discount!

Patterns on Sale:
Lotus Duster
Gnome Toboggan
Kismet Poncho
Tree of Life
Forest Guide Hat
Feather & Scale Halter
Cobweb Wrap
Elf Coat

Monetizing my YouTube channel will help me continue to bring out free content available to everyone while also giving me the financial support to keep publishing great quality, full-scale written PDF crochet patterns. Another great way to support my art: The Tip Jar!

20th Pixie Belt: Lotus

I realized at some point that the next Pixie Pocket Belt I made would be my 20th, and so I determined to make a really special one. I have been making these unique crocheted utility belts freehand, doing them completely different each time, for a few years now.

I used hand-dyed yarn to create a partial, semi-circular Lotus Mandala – don’t ask me how I did that specifically because I won’t be posting a pattern, sorry! These guys are FrEeFoRm, but I did create a series of tutorial guides for helping people get started making Pixie Pocket Belts of their own, check it out if you like πŸ™‚

After that, I got out my special hand-dyed upcycled fabric given to me by my friend Kate, who had it left over from a studio art project – and it happened to match so well! What I ended up with is a watery, soft, draping train of prismatic lace and tatters, topped with a shimmery white lotus flower circular pocket and soft drawstring bag and toadstool pouch accents.

I put it over another hand-dyed upcycled project of mine, an in-progress rag gown, fit for a water sprite dredged from the bottom of a flowery pond. No mud, no lotus ❀

Elf Coat Expansion

Pretty much as soon as I put down the last touches on the Elf Coat design, I knew I was going to have to pick it up again eventually! One part of the sleeve design always nagged at me, and I did intend to give it pockets eventually – and lo, the flood of requests for Plus Sizes ❀ ❀

As much as I wanted to fulfill these fixes, I needed a break from the Elf Coat, so I took a couple years off to think about things πŸ˜‰ And now I’m back, tackling the first part of the Elf Coat redesign and expansion! The first task is to fix the sleeve bit and to get a pocket option figured out, then update those changes to the already-existing sizes (S-M-L).

Afterward, I design & test the plus sizes! This is exciting and if you’d like to be a part of any of the testing for the new updates, join the Morale Fiber Facebook Group – The MFCA – and keep an eye out for the testing call!

Other Projects & Updates

I’ve got a number of bigger new designs on the horizon, which I’m also going to need help testing πŸ˜‰ None are solid enough yet to list here, but I’ve got a hoard of updatable old patterns and things to occupy myself until things coalesce, of course.

I’m also thinking that this website, moralefiber.blog, really needs a few changes – it’s remained virtually the exact same since I opened it five years ago. Which makes sense, because I’m much more concerned with producing crochet content than updating the way the site looks – but eventually one must try to stay efficient. Hopefully I don’t wreck the way it works in the process!

Meanwhile…

Until Morale Improves, the Crocheting Will Continue ❀

-MF

Freeform #1

For years now I’ve had my eye on creating a piece in the classic Freeform style, a method of crochet that rejects the use of pattern or pre-planned formations and uses highly textural and varied crochet stitches to create odd, asymmetric pieces called “scrumbles.”

Though any crocheting without a pattern could technically be called freeform or freestyle, I differentiate the classic Freeform technique as having a few key characteristics: lack of pattern or overall plan, emphasis on chaotic form and texture over cohesive visual harmony, and reliance on several iconic motifs common in modern freeform (such as spirals, bullions, puffs, and other textural stitches).

Freeform scrumbles are finished bits of crochet that are then arranged and connected to form the final piece – anything from a freestanding “painting” of forms to a highly ornate coat to furniture covers (I dream of freeforming over an entire couch one day…).

Sometimes sewn together, sometimes connected via an openwork web of chains as in traditional Irish lace – the scumbles are like a puzzle you get to create AND solve!

After looking to such Freeform crochet geniuses as Prudence Mapstone and Hannah Martin of Of Mars, perusing some playlists for Freeform shapes on Youtube, and endlessly scrolling the Freeform Crochet World Group on Facebook, I finally collected a bunch of yarn and started scumbling.

And scrumbling.

And scrumbling.

After 8 months of slow progress, and lots of learning curves, I finally put the finishing touches on Freeform #1!

I knew it would be a shawl from the start, but the rest of the journey of this project was a complete and utter mystery until it was finally finished.

I must have arranged and rearranged the pieces so many times, in so many combinations! There are even a few eyeballs stuck in there, left over from practicing bullion eyes for the Forest Guide Hat.

The colors were chosen to be an earthy rainbow, with lots of gem tones (my favorite). Plenty of odd bits of hand-dyed and hand-spun yarn were included that I also created – which adds to the unique and personal “process” art touch.

At some point along the way, I started becoming (more) obsessed with moths, and I couldn’t stop picturing this piece as moth wings, or at least some winged bug-eyed thing – so the prism goggles came out to play πŸ˜‰

I’m overall thrilled with how this piece turned out – better than my expectations, to be sure! My first full-size freeform will be staying in my closet as I don’t think I could bear to part with it.

It’s great to create something that is impossible to write a pattern from! These days it’s hard to crochet anything that I don’t start to consider writing a pattern for (cue the incessant note-taking), but with freeform, that’s obviously not an option…

Although I may do some tutorial videos for the techniques I used at some point!

If you want to try out freeform but don’t want to commit to a huge project, my Pixie Pocket Belt Tutorial series uses freeform techniques to create cute, quick costume projects.

This shawl really pushed my boundaries and challenged me, and I value it all the more because of that.

-MF

Sunflower Lotus Vest

It’s been a while since I made the Lotus Vest, the Free-Size circular shawl version of my Lotus Mandala design, seen also in the Lotus Duster (all free patterns available on my blog – just follow the links!)

So there I was, trying to use up some of my Quarantine stash while on Staycation, and I plumbed the depths of the cotton bin to find a lot of the Lion Brand 24/7 cotton yarn – the same kind I used to make the original piece.

Stashbusting achieved! I moved the armholes a little closer together, and skipped a few of the chain mesh rows – but here’s my latest version of the Lotus Circular Vest, crocheted with sunflowers in mind πŸ™‚

If you don’t prefer written patterns, I do have a video tutorial for the Lotus Duster, a similar pattern, which can be make sleeveless as well. Get that by going to the my YouTube Channel Playlist here.

There’s also a great Dutch version of this pattern, translated by Iris of Een Mooi Gebaar – you can get that for FREE on her website, or get the downloadable, portable, printable Dutch translation PDF pattern file in my Etsy Shop or Ravelry store!

Stay cool out there! ❀

-MF

P.S – the crocheted top I’m wearing in these pictures is the Valkyrie Top!


Going the Distance

Happy Monday! I hope everyone out there is feeling well and healthy – I am, if just a touch stir crazy. But the weather is beautiful and I’ve been blessed with a lot of opportunities to hike out in the isolated woods recently πŸ™‚

It’s been a few weeks since my last blog post, so I thought I’d write up a little summary of what’s on my schedule right now – a couple new projects and previews, plus giveaways! I’m lucky to have already been working from home when the stay-at-home order was put in my place to mitigate the spread of Covid-19 in my state, so I have plenty in the works and more on the horizon for as long as my yarn stash holds out (even then, the emergency reserves are flush...)

So, cheers! Be sure to subscribe to my blog, and like & follow my Facebook Page for more fun crochet stuff!

Star & Moon Twirling Gown:

Another project made from the very well-appreciated Wendy Kay’s No-Sew Gypsy Skirt pattern, which I purchased from Etsy years ago and have used a LOT. I think this is my eighth skirt from that pattern.

Modeled by the lovely Sarina Newbold, this celestial piece is 100% cotton fabric donated by a friend, and I used the long-wedge version of the pattern to create a gown-length mega-skirt that adjusts from XS up to XXL at the waistband.

As you can see, it is just KILLER for twirling in. I am patiently building my sewing skills, because I have some really neat ideas for more crochet/fabric fusion clothing ❀ in the future!

Hedge Witch Hat PDF:

Sarina also modeled her new custom hat made from the free Hedge Witch Hat pattern on my blog:

Too. CUTE.

I plan to go over the pattern once more, then turn this popular design into a downloadable, ad-free PDF! I’m looking to expand my PDF offerings to include more available free patterns, for those that like to the portability and convenience – if there’s one you’d like to see, let me know πŸ™‚

Fundraisers & Giveaways

I’ve recently began offering some of my premium, normally paid-only crochet patterns for FREE as special deals to help people stay safe & sane during this period of self-isolation (which I have begun to call Free Range Captivity). In return, I ask those who can do so to consider making a small donation to a worthy cause.

The first Free Pattern Fundraiser offered the Valkyrie Top gratis in support of The Trevor Project. The offer is ended now, thank you to everyone who supported this important service! Keep reading for the current free offering πŸ™‚

The Valkyrie Top was also part of a recent Instagram Giveaway I participated in, hosted by the incredible Starlily Creations featuring some of my personal favorite crochet artists and heroes. Congratulations to Viv, winner of the deluxe halter top pattern pack!

My next Free Pattern Fundraiser is supporting the National Network to End Domestic Violence – use the code “ENDVIOLENCE” now through Wednesday, April 22 on the Ravelry checkout for the Mermaid Mitts and Sandals pattern and get it for FREE! And if you can, consider donating a small amount (they’ll take any amount, and you can use Paypal) to the worthy cause.

Mermaid Mitts & Sandals

Upcoming Designs

As I sometimes like to do in these rambling wrap-up posts, I have a couple sneak peeks on something that’s coming up soon! This design has been on my mind for years, though I lacked the persistence to do it until recently.

Mysterious, eh? Well, not really. It’s just crochet pineapples, that ubiquitous motif. Or is it?

I may have some tricks up my sleeve!

-MF

Elderberry Pixie Belt & Sale

Hi friends! In addition to working diligently on the Elf Coat patterns, I’ve been having fun doing some experimentation in one of my favorite project categories, the upcycled crochet pixie belt.

If you don’t already know, you can get a ton of info on how to create original, freeform pixie pocket belts from my blog series, the Pixie Belt Tutorial. The full tutorial is also available in downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF format through my Ravelry store – and I’m using this post as a springboard for a pattern sale too!

Now through Aug. 12, through Ravelry only, you can get the Pixie Belt Tutorial pattern FREE with the purchase of any other pattern! πŸ™‚ Just put both patterns in your cart and the discount is taken at checkout.

I had fun adding new hardware elements to this latest pixie belt piece – a metal mandala centerpiece I’ve had for years that came off of an old thrifted dress forms a focal point on the back, plus two D-rings on either side of the belt which hold a draped scarf really nicely for extra oomph around the hips. The best part is that the silver scarf is totally removable, so you can change out scarves!

There are also two pixie pockets: one circular pouch and one drawstring, as well as a detachable mushroom pouch ❀ The skirting I’m especially proud of – one whole thrifted shirt made from dusky rose gauzy material, artfully ripped of course.

I’m very happy with how this belt came out, especially since I got pretty experimental with it! This encourages me in my other ideas – I’d love to bring in more diverse fiber elements like fabric and leather πŸ™‚

Also it was fun to dress up this one – what do you think of my new background? I dig it!

If you’d like the see more unique, one of a kind pixie belt projects, be sure to check out the Pixie Belt Tutorial blog series!

-MF ❀

Vintage Derby Pattern

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I’ve always loved the bowler, a.k.a derby hat, and I think this cute but classy style looks great with anything! So I was inspired to create a crochet version, with a vintage-y feel and body stiff enough to maintain the classic bowler shape. The Vintage Derby pattern is the result, a pretty simple crochet pattern suitable for beginners but with some textural tweaks – this pattern uses waistcoat stitch crochet, a.k.a knit stitch, and yarn held double.

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I chose the waistcoat/knit stitch because I wanted the surface of the hat smoother than regular single crochet could do, and because I thought it added to that vintage look I was going for. It’s really a simple stitch to learn and I recommend this tutorial for learning waistcoat stitch from Crafternoon Treats.

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For the yarn held double, simply crochet as you would, but with two strands of yarn instead of one – this makes the body nice and thick, which helps hold the shape of the hat.

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If you like this cute springtime accessory as much as I did, consider giving the project page a like on Ravelry!

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Vintage Derby

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Materials:
Yarn: Deborah Norville Everyday (#4 weight, 113g / 203 yds 100% Anti-Pill Acrylic), 2 skeins in “Chinchilla”
50 yds contrasting yarn for the band
5.00 mm hook
Scissors and Tapestry needle

Gauge: 3 sts and 4 rows = 1″ in waistcoat stitch (ws)

Finished measurements: 24″ around (inner brim), 6.5″ height, 1.5″ wide brim

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Notes: Working the waistcoat stitch with double worsted yarn and a 5 hook was not easy at first! I had to consciously adjust my tension so that I was not single crocheting as tight as I normally would. If you are having trouble drawing up loops from the stitch below (through the post area) you will want to adjust your tension to be more loose.

Instructions:

With yarn held double, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: 5 sc into the ring. Do not join – begin to work in the round, placing marker in the first stitch of every rnd. – 5 sts

Rnd 2: 2 ws in ea of the next 5 sc sts. – 10 sts

Rnd 3: *1 ws in the next st, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 15 sts

Rnd 4: *1 ws in the next 2 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 20 sts

Rnd 5: *1 ws in the next 3 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 25 sts

Rnd 6: *1 ws in the next 4 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 30 sts

Rnd 7: *1 ws in the next 5 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 35 sts

Rnd 8: *1 ws in the next 6 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 40 sts

Rnd 9: *1 ws in the next 7 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 45 sts

Rnd 10: *1 ws in the next 8 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 50 sts

Rnd 11: *1 ws in the next 9 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 55 sts

Rnd 12: *1 ws in the next 10 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 60 sts

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Rnd 13:Β *1 ws in the next 11 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 65 sts

Rnd 14: 1 ws in each st around. – 65 sts

Rnd 15: *1 ws in the next 12 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 70 sts

Rnd 16: Rpt Rnd 14

Rnd 17: *1 ws in the next 13 sts. 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 75 sts

Rnds 18 – 30: 1 ws in each st around – 75 sts

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Rnd 31: *1 ws in the next 14 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 80 sts

Rnd 32: *1 ws in the next 15 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 85 sts

Rnd 33: *1 ws in the next 16 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 90 sts

Rnd 34: *1 ws in the next 17 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 95 sts

Rnd 35: *1 ws in the next 18 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 100 sts

Rnd 36: *1 ws in the next 19 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 105 sts

Rnds 37 – 42: 1 ws in ea st around. – 105 sts

Slip stitch a few extra stitches at the end of the last round. Cut yarn and tie off.

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Reverse the hat and reattach the yarn, held double, on the last rowΒ  on the opposite side. Slip stitch in each stitch around on the inside of the brim – this helps neaten the brim and keep it sturdy. Cut yarn and tie off again when finished.

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Weave in all ends using the tapestry needle.

Hat Band:

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Using the 5.00 mm hook and the contrasting yarn held double, ch 75.

Rnd 1: Join chain in a ring, being careful not to twist the chain. Sc in each ch stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to the first st of the round.- 75 sts

Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does not count as first st). Ws in the first st. 1 ws in each st around. Join with a sl st. – 75 sts

Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 2. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Weave in the spare end, then thread the tapestry needle with the long end and use it to sew the band onto the hat. If you would rather not attach the band, it should stay pretty secure anyway – your call!

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It was fun dreaming up a vintagey look to match the hat – but next time I will do the photoshoot BEFORE I dig out a bunch of plants from a garden bed in the hot sun, lol!

 

This little pattern was so much fun, I was reminded of how much I love making hats! I do have a DOOZY cooked up as an idea for the future, but I haven’t put hook to yarn on that yet – stick around and see more by following my blog or following my Facebook page!

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If you like funky hats, you should check out my FREE horned monstrosity, the Krampus Hat Pattern.

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If vintage and steampunk-y is your style, maybe you’d like some Ruffled Wrister gloves to match your hat? That one’s also free!

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❀ – MF

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Pixie Belt PDF

Just popping in for a quick reminder that my Pixie Pocket Belt tutorial is now available in downloadable, portable, printable, ad-free form! Head over to my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern Store to get it ❀ ❀ ❀ Thanks for visiting and supporting – the free version is still available on my blog in this series of posts, but PDF’s are more convenient and accessible – plus I get yarn money which allows me to make more patterns and tutorials!

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I also have the most recently finished pixie belt, “Dogwood” to share. I made this one for me, since I didn’t have my own yet. My favorite colors, plus some extra slip stitch fanciness, resin cabochon details, and even a leather and crochet pocket.

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I loved crocheting on the leather and plan to do more – and maybe even make some tutorials for it! πŸ˜‰

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I especially enjoy the deer antler button fastenings and the adjustable ribbon tie combo – so there are multiple ways to wear this. I’d have to say these are in the running for my #1 favorite crochet project to make, I hope you love them as much as I do!

-MF

PBT: Cell Phone Pocket

This post is part of a series of tutorials on how to create your own unique crochet pixie pocket belt – to read more about this series visit theΒ Intro page.

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I often like to leave my technology behind when I go wandering in the forest, but hey, sometime’s a pixie’s gotta stay connected. That’s why I named this special pocket style the Cell Phone pocket, because it’s the perfect addition to a crochet utility belt that needs room for a phone!

Of course, this in-the-round style rectangular pouch is just really fun and simple to make on its own, so no tech required if you prefer to stow other treasures inside πŸ™‚

Cell Phone Pocket

3.75 mm Hook
Ch 12 (or the length you think will fit your phone, plus a little extra – you don’t want it too tight)
1. Hdc in 3rd ch from the hook and in ea st down the chain. 3 hdc in the final ch st. Rotate the piece, then hdc in each ch stitch (inserting hk into bottom loop). Work 2 hdc in the final ch st. Join with a slip stitch

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2. Ch 2 (does not count as first hdc) hdc in ea hdc, across, working 3 hdc in the central hdc of the 3-hdc turn at the end. Hdc across again, work 3 hdc in the central stitch of the previous 3-hdc turn at the end. Join with a sl st

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Check to see if this will comfortably fit your phone. If not, add another round with increases at both ends. If it’s lookin’ good, just work rounds evenly without increases.

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Don’t look at how dirty my phone is.

3. Hdc even for as many rounds as necessary.

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I did about 13, then added a roomy loop so that it can secure my phone by catching on a button which I planned to add to the front. Pretty sweet right? Weave in all your ends, then stash this baby with the rest of your pockets until you’re ready to add them on!

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I hope you enjoyed this little bonus round of the Pixie Belt Tutorial! I loved making this belt especially because THIS one’s for me πŸ˜‰ I’ve never made myself one before so I thought it was high time ❀

-MF

 

PBT: One Piece Circular Pocket

This post is part of a series of tutorials on how to create your own unique crochet pixie pocket belt – to read more about this series visit theΒ Intro page.

One Piece Circular Pocket

Most of the crochet utility belts I make have circle pockets – I love their potential as a canvas for other shapes like mandalas, simple embroidery, or shell flower petals. Plus, I’m just really into circles.

While I’ve created a tutorial for circle pockets that utilize two flat circle shapes sewn together, I often prefer to create them in a single piece – this tutorial shows how!

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Begin by working a colorful, non-continuous circle as shown in this section of the tutorial series.Β Shown here is my version for the belt I’ve been working on, “Dogwood”.

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As you can see, I’ve got some crazy stuff going on in there, including some overlay stitches and textural bobbles, plus a resin cabochon that I appliqued on with a crochet cover. But the basic structure is the same, using regular increases to make a flat circle and going up to 60 or so stitches, which means following in pattern until you Inc on 10 (see Circle Pockets Part 1 for more on creating flat circles).

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Once I reach my desired size, I prepare to shape the circle. To do this, I’m going to add a few rows of sc even in the round, meaning I’ll just crochet around the circle without adding any increases or working any joins. This will add depth to your circle so that the pocket is rounded and not flat. BUT, you have to keep in mind you’ll need an opening in your pocket, so at some point you’ll chain a number (I think I did around 13-15) and skip the same number of stitches before continuing to crochet.

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On the next round, single crochet right over the chain as normal. Now you have the opening worked out, so you will work a few more rounds of sc even, then begin to decrease at the same rate that you increased in the front.

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If you plan on adding a button fastening, don’t forget to crochet either a loop or a buttonhole into one of the rounds behind the opening on the back of your pocket! I almost forgot, which is why my loop is larger and set further back πŸ˜‰

Since my pocket went up to “Inc on 10” I’ll start shaping the back of my pocket by decreasing on 10, using the same counting strategy as the increases:

Dec on 10 (or count out 9 stitches, then use the 10th and 11th sts to work a sc decrease)
Dec on 9 (count out 8 sts, use the 9th and 10th sts to dec)
Dec on 8 (etc…)

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The back of the circle pocket will start to close up. When you can’t decrease anymore, you’ll need to cut a long yarn tail and tie off your stitches. Thread the yarn tail on a tapestry needle and secure the closing circle by stitching through it back and forth a few times.

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Weave in all your ends, and sew on a button or fastening, beads, or anything you like!

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Hope you enjoyed this little bonus edition of the Pixie Belt Tutorial – keep sending me pictures because I love seeing what you make! Hit me up on my Facebook page:
Morale Fiber on Facebook

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-MF

 

Elf Coat Pattern: Medium

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I am very excited to have finally finished my Elf Coat size medium! I rolled out the pattern early, and then worked my butt off so that I could add all the fancy costume photos! I was also working on the Elf Coat size Large, which I am happy to say is now available, also for free, here on my blog!

There is also a purchaseable PDF pattern, which includes all three sizes and the corset back lacing tutorial, available in my Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop! If you have questions about this pattern, please check out my Elf Coat FAQ page for some of the most common queries πŸ™‚

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I hope you love this Medium size Elf Coat and pretty please tag me on Facebook, Instagram, etc @MoraleFiber so I can see what amazing things you are making ❀ ❀ Also we have a great Facebook Group, growing every day, dedicated to magical crochet of all sorts!

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Elf Coat Instructions

The Medium is based on an 11-panel skirt, made from 5 pointed panels and 6 simple panels.

Finished Measurements (approximate):
Waist: ~38β€³
Bust: ~38β€³
Hip: ~40β€³
Sleeve: 22β€³ (measured armpit to hem)
Length: ~37β€³

This pattern, based on an 11-wedge skirt (5 pointed wedges, 6 simple wedges) is equivalent to size Medium. Further tips on custom sizing can be found in the pattern.Β Large can be found here. Many people have asked how to size up – there are not yet plus sizes written, but an XL will be based on a 15 wedge skirt (7 pointed 8 simple), and 2XL will be based on a 17 wedge skirt (8 pointed 9 simple). The math of the pattern is explained in the notes to each section and can be modified following the number of wedges in the skirt’s size requirements.

Notes on yarn:Β I chose to work this size in Red Heart Unforgettable, instead of the DK weight King Cole Riot. I had already started two panels in this yarn, and I was curious to see how it would work up in both color and sizing. Since I haven’t completed the piece yet, I’m not sure how many skeins will be required for this size, so I have estimated.

Materials

6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook
Red Heart Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 16
Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”

Techniques Used:

Chain (ch)
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) – stitch used for each coat piece. Tutorial can be found on my blog here
TKS Increase (TKS inc): Increasing in Tunisian Knit Stitch – see TKS tutorial
TKS Decrease (TKS dec): Decreasing in Tunisian Knit stitch – see TKS tutorial
Linked Double Crochet (LDC): Creating a row of double crochet that are linked in the middle. Tutorial can be found on my blog here.
Slip Stitch (Sl st): Used selectively for seaming
Whip Stitch: Sewing stitch made with a tapestry needle with yarn as thread, used for seaming.

Video Tutorials: I have created a playlist of video tutorials for working all the Tunisian stitches and other special techniques needed for this design, please refer to those on my YouTube channel at the link below! 😊
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i8JEaMwoXg&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJGbejoOm

Technique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful crochet technique and I love it and highly recommend learning if you haven’t. But since this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just rows of regular stitches with some increases and decreases – that’s really it) a different technique can easily be substituted in. As long as your stitches match the gauge given, you could work this pattern in regular single crochet or regular knit stitch.

One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet or one regular knit/purl stitch.

I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single crochet, and obtained a close gauge using a 4.0 mm hook.

Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does wonders for your finished piece, especially with Tunisian crochet which tends to curl. Blocking for this piece can be done simply by laying your piece out on a foam mat, using blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat and pretty and in the right shape. Using a spray bottle and plain water, wet the piece, then let dry. This works great with wool based yarns (King Cole Riot DK) and moderately well with acrylics (RH Unforgettable).

DSC_0036

Above: Large size Elf Coat laid flat for blocking

Okay, phew. That was a lot of info.

I tried to provide the answers to what I thought might be common questions for this pattern, based on what people have asked about similar patterns πŸ™‚ If any of it seems confusing, please don’t hesitate to ask me here on the blog, or via my Facebook page

Now on to the pattern!

MossFrost8

Elf Coat – Medium

ElfCoatCover2

ElfMediumPanels.jpg

Simple Wedge (Make 6)

Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.
Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts.
Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts.
Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.

Pointed Wedge (Make 5)

Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 20-27: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next 8 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 29-32: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next 9 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 34-37: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next 10 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 39-42: TKS across, RP. – 25 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next 11 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 44-47: TKS across, RP. – 27 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. RP. – 33 sts
Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next 16 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 59: TKS across, RP. – 37 sts
Row 60: TKS in the next 17 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 61: TKS across, RP. – 39 sts
Row 62: TKS in the next 18 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts
Row 64: TKS in the next 19 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts
Row 66: TKS in the next 20 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 71: TKS in the next 25 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 72: TKS in the next 26 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 73: TKS in the next 27 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 74: TKS in the next 28 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 75: TKS in the next 29 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 76: TKS in the next 30 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 78: TKS in the next 32 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Arrange the panels alternately so that the sequence begins and ends with a simple wedge. The first example is for the small size, which begins and ends with a pointed wedge (already seamed and bordered). The second example is the Medium size, which arranges to begin and end with a simple wedge (not seamed or bordered yet).

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MFtute1

Skirt Construction

Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges, seam all blocks together with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn.

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Skirt Border:

DSC_0363

The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked Double Crochet, worked back and forth, with increases at the point of each pointed wedge.

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of the skirt hem.
Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at the point of each pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this increase.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each point where the increase was marked.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each ch-1 from the increase points of the previous row.

Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie off. You can work extra border here if you want the skirt longer!

DSC_0364

Close-up of the increases at the point of each pointed wedge

WAIST:

The waist is worked directly onto the top of the wedges that make up the skirt. One stitch is skipped on every block, to create a slight decrease in width to accentuate the waist. This means that the total number of waistband stitches after Row 1 will equal (14 sts x Number of Total Wedges).

DSC_0362.JPG

Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the tops of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 10 times. RP. – 154 sts
To modify the size here, add or subtract any rowsΒ after the first one to make it longer or shorter. To create Inset pockets, see β€œPockets” Instructions, below, before completing the waistband. Afterthought / Outside pockets may be completed after the waistband is finished.
Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP.

ElfMediumBack

Back Panel:

The back panel is worked the length of stitches that equals half of the number of stitches in the waist. In this size, the waist is 154 stitches. Divided by two, that’s 77 stitches.

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 77.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 75 sts. Return pass (RP). – 77 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 77 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 69 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 75 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 67 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 65 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 63 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 61 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 59 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 57 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 51 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 40: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 47 sts
Row 42: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 45 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 43 sts
Row 44: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 41 sts
Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 39 sts
Row 46: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 37 sts
Row 47: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 35 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33 sts
Row 49: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 31 sts
Row 50: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 27 sts
Row 52: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 25 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

ElfMediumFront

Front Panel – Right

The front panels are worked with the length of stitches equaling the half of the waistband that the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two, so each panel will be a quarter of the total waistband stitches. 154 / 4 = 38.5. Since that’s not a whole number, I will round down to 38 and fudge the seam a tiny fraction.

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 38.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 36 sts. Return pass (RP). – 38 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 38 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 37 sts.
Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 36 sts.
Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 35 sts.
Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 34 sts.
Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 33 sts.
Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 32 sts.
Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 31 sts.
Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 30 sts.
Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 29 sts.
Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 28 sts.
Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 27 sts.
Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 26 sts.
Row 39: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25 sts
Row 40: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 sts
Row 41: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23 sts
Row 42: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22 sts
Row 43:Β  TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21 sts
Row 44: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20 sts
Row 45: TKS in ea of the next 16 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19 sts
Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 47: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 48: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 49: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 50: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 51: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 52: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Front Panel – Left

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 38.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 36 sts. Return pass (RP). – 38 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 38 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 35 sts. RP – 37 sts.
Row 28: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. RP – 36 sts.
Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. RP – 35 sts.
Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. RP – 34 sts.
Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. RP – 33 sts.
Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. RP – 32 sts.
Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. RP – 31 sts.
Row 34: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. RP – 30 sts.
Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. RP – 29 sts.
Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. RP – 28 sts.
Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. RP – 27 sts.
Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. RP – 26 sts.
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. RP – 25 sts.
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. RP – 24 sts.
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. RP – 23 sts.
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. RP – 22 sts.
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. RP – 21 sts.
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. RP – 20 sts.
Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. RP – 19 sts.
Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 47: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 48: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 49: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 50: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 51: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 52: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seam the Back & Front Panels

Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch the sides of the panels together so that the long angles face each other. Stitch together the straight sides, not the angles. Once the bodice is sewn together, line the flat bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach using a 3.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn by working a slip stitch through both pieces.

DSC_0352.2DSC_0361

Sleeve (Make 2):

ElfMediumSleeve

Pictured Above: Old-style sleeve (decreases on the outside of the row). Pictured Below: New-style sleeves (decreases placed centrally)

DSC_0003 (2)

The sleeves for all sizes begin with a 16-chain length, then work a portion of increases creating a slant that lines up with the slanted edge of the bodice. The sleeve then works decreases to size down for the main part of the arm (worked evenly), then increases again for the flared sleeve.

DSC_0004 (2)

The former design placed the decrease portion at the ends of the rows, but the new updated version is written so that the decreases are placed centrally, in the middle of the row. This allows the fabric to slant downward to follow the natural line of the shoulder. If you prefer working the old style, simply place the decreases at the ends of the rows instead 😊

Ch 16.

Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts

Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts

Row 3: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 20 sts

Row 4: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 22 sts

Row 5: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 24 sts

Row 6: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 26 sts

Row 7: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 28 sts

Row 8: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 30 sts

Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts

Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 34 sts

Row 11: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 36 sts

Row 12: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 38 sts

Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts

Row 14: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts

Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 38 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts

Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 46 sts

Row 17: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 42 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts

Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 44 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 50 sts

Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 52 sts

Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts

Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 56 sts

Row 22: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 52 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 58 sts

Row 23: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 54 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 60 sts

Row 24: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 56 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 62 sts

Row 25: TKS in ea st across. – 62 sts

Row 26: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 58 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 64 sts

Row 27: TKS in ea st across. – 64 sts

Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 60 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 66 sts

Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the nextΒ  28 sts. RP. – 64 sts

Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 62 sts

Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 60 sts

Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 58 sts

Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 56 sts

Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 54 sts

Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 52 sts

Rows 36– 76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 52 sts

Row 77: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 46 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 54 sts

Row 78: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 54 sts

Row 79: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 48 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 56 sts

Row 80: TKS in ea st across. RP. –56 sts

Row 81: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 50 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 58 sts

Row 82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts

Row 83: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 52 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 60 sts

Row84: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 60 sts

Row85: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 54 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 62 sts

Row 86: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 62 sts

Row 87: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 56 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 64 sts

Row 88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 64sts

Row 89: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 58 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 66 sts

Row 90: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 66 sts

Row 91: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 68 sts

Row 92: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts

Row 93: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 70 sts

Row 94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 70 sts

Row 95: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. –72 sts

Row 96: TKS in ea st across. RP. –72 sts

Row 97: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 66 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 74 sts

Row 98: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 74 sts

Row 99: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 68 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 76 sts

Row 100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76 sts

Row 101: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts

Row 102: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts

Row 103: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 72 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. –80 sts

Row 104: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts

Row 105: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 74 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82 sts

Row 106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82 sts

Row 107: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 84 sts

Row 108: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84 sts

Row 109: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 78 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 86 sts

Row 110: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 86 sts

Row 111: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next80 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82, 88, 92 sts

Row 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. –  88 sts

Row 113: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 82 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 90 sts

Row 114: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 90 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Sleeve:

Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the piece. Seam together using a whip stitch, starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving toward the shoulder, leaving 30 rows unseamed at the top. At the underarm of the sleeve, match the remaining opening to the front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows to cap the tops of the panels, overlapping the top by 4 stitches.

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Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the front and back panels.

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Close-up of the sleeve fitting.

Sleeve Border

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With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam where the sleeve is sewn together.
Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 times in the same stitch, inserting hook as if to TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join with a slip stitch in the top of the first dc.
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first stitch and 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.

Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves longer here by adding extra border rounds of LDC.

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Close-up of sleeve border. Beware my join is not in the same place pictured as is written in the pattern – whoops!

HOOD:

The hood is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete. This hood has a very long point – it’s a lot of hood! If you prefer a slightly shorter hood, seed β€œHalf Hood” instructions below. Either size hood can be made and attached to any size Elf Coat.

Working a Shortened Hood (Formerly the Half Hood): This is the alternative to the full size hood design which conserves a little yarn. Like the full hood, it is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete and seamed. You can use either hood interchangeably when creating your coat, though, no matter which size you are making! To work the Shortened Hood, skip one of the two non-increase rows between each increase row for the first 76 rows written (50 rows total). Then, resume the Hood pattern as normal at Row 77.

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Shortened Hood

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Full Hood

Ch 3.

Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of the next 2 chain stitches. RP. – 3 sts

Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Rows 3-4: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts

Row 5: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next
3 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts

Rows 6-7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts

Row 8: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.

Rows 9-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts

Row 11: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts

Row 12-13: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts

Row 14: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts

Rows 15-16: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts

Row 17: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts

Rows 18-19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts

Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts

Row 21-22: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts

Row 23: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 19 sts

Rows 24-25: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 19 sts

Row 26: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 21 sts

Rows 27-28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts

Row 29: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 23 sts

Rows 30-31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts

Row 32: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 25 sts

Rows 33-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts

Row 35: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 27 sts

Rows 36-37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts

Row 38: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 29 sts

Rows 39-40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts

Row 41: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 31 sts

Rows 42-43: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 31 sts

Row 44: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 33 sts

Row 45-46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts

Row 47: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 35 sts.

Rows 48-49: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 35 sts

Row 50: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 37 sts.

Rows 51-52: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts

Row 53: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 39 sts

Rows 54-55: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 39 sts

Row 56: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 41 sts

Rows 57-58: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 41 sts

Row 59: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 43 sts

Rows 60-61: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 43 sts

Row 62: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 45 sts

Rows 63-64: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts

Row 65: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 47 sts

Rows 66-67: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 47 sts

Row 68: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 49 sts

Rows 69-70: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 49 sts

Row 71: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 51 sts

Rows 72-73: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts

Row 74: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 53 sts

Rows 75-76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.

Row 77: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in ea of the next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 58 sts

Rows 78-79: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts

Row 80: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 63 sts

Rows 81-82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 63 sts

Row 83: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp) 4 times. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts

Rows 84-85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts

Row 86: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 16 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts

Rows 87-88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 73 sts

Row 89: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts

Rows 90-91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts

Row 92: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 83 sts

Rows 93-94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts

Row 95: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 88 sts

Rows 96-97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts

Row 98: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 93 sts

Rows 99-100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 93 sts

Row 101: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 98 sts

Rows 102-103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts

Row 104: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 103 sts

Rows 105-106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 103 sts

Row 107: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 108 sts

Rows 108-109: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 108 sts

Row 110: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 113 sts

Rows 111 – 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 113 sts

Row 113: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 118 sts

Rows 114 – 115: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 118 sts

Row 116: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 123

Rows 117 – 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 123 sts

Row 119: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 128 sts

Rows 120-121: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 128 sts

Row 122: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 133 sts

Rows 123-124: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 133 sts

Row 125: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 138 sts

Rows 126-127: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 138 sts

Row 128: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 143 sts

Rows 129-130: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 143 sts

Row 131: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 148 sts

Rows 132-133: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 148 sts

Row 134: TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 153 sts

Rows 135 – 151: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 153 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Hood

Fold the large triangle down the center length so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other and the wrong sides are out. With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, make a whip stitch seam starting at the point of the hood and seaming over the next 55 rows toward the opening of the hood.

Once this seam is complete, there should be 32 rows left un-seamed on either side.Turn your hood inside out so that the right sides are facing out again.

shorthood2

How did I get the number of rows to leave unseamed? It’s (8+8) to account for the small angled part on each side of the front panel, plus (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then (25-8= 17) to cover the portion of the top of the back panel not already covered by the cap of the sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded down to 64 to get an even number when I halved it – so 32 rows left unseamed on either side of the hood.

The hood then is seamed to the collar of the garment (once all sleeves and everything have been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching the points of the hood opening indicated by the red dots to the beginning of the collar on the front, also indicated by red dots.

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Seam the hood around the collar opening, matching stitch for stitch.

Front Border and Closures

We’re almost done!Β Next up is to use four rows of LDC to add a border across the entire front opening, beginning with the hem, working up the opening of the garment, going around the edge of the hood, and working back down the other side of the front opening. After the third row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the buttons. For traditional buttonholes, stop to mark the placement after the second row.

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Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of the skirt border rows.

Ch 3.
Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1 LDC in the side of each row across the next wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side of each row across the front panel, waist band, and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each LDC of the skirt border.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1. Traditional buttonholes mark placement here.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2. Loop buttonholes mark placement here.

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Close-up of LDC border

Marking Buttons

Mark where your buttons will be on one side, and mark an equidistant space on the other side of the border for where you will place your loops or buttonholes. I began with one button/closure on the top and bottom edge of the waist band, then used this measurement (17 sts between each placement) to space the other buttons. I made five button placements total.

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Once your button placements have been marked, begin the third or fourth row of LDC.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you reach a button/closure marker. If you are on the button side, keep working LDC’s. If you are on the closure side, there are two options: You can chain a couple stitches and skip over working a couple stitches, which creates a buttonhole within the band and a tighter closure. I opted to use a loop closure, which leaves the front a little more open when buttoned.

If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big enough to fit the button through, then slip stitch in the same stitch. Continue working LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain loop at any point where a closure is marked.

Cut yarn and tie off.

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Stopping to chain a loop closure

mftute14

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After finishing the final border row, use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach each button at the marked location on the opposite side of the closures.

After you have completed this, you are finished with the Elf Coat! Unless of course I can interest you in that Corset Back Lacing? How about a Belt Tie for extra cinching? And don’t forget about those Pocket options!

Thank you and I hope you are inspired to create a work of wearable art all your own ❀ The best part of designing patterns and sharing them online is that I get to help create artwork with people all around the world. Thank you, thank you, thank you for visiting and creating art with me! And of course, if you have any questions or feedback please feel welcome to comment ❀ Now, here’s a bunch of pictures! Man, I really love costumes.

MossFrost4MossFrost5MossFrost6MossFrost9MossFrost10MossFrost11MossFrost12

❀ MF