Rambler’s Mitts

I’ve got a quick free pattern for some basic fingerless gloves today, using just one skein of bulky weight yarn! Fingerless mitts are some of my favorite projects for spare yarn skeins, and a great beginner crochet project too.

UPDATE 2/2021: This pattern is now available as a purchaseable pattern PDF set – combined with the Basic Armwarmers pattern, it makes a complete guide to creating custom fingerless crochet gloves – check it out in my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern Store! ❤



A recent spell of pretty weather has had me thinking of the Charles Dickens quote: “It was one of those March days when the sun shines hot and the wind blows cold: when it is summer in the light, and winter in the shade.” It’s not quite March yet, but I’m already looking forward to wandering in the woods to find the first treasures of spring!


These quick & easy mitts are just perfect for woodland ramblings. They feature an alternating front post / back post hdc at the wrist and trim – you can find a tutorial linked below! These are also great fun to customize with extras – I added little embroidered fawn spots to mine.


Rambler’s Mitts Free Pattern

Blank 800 x 2000

5.00 mm hook
1 skein Bamboospun (#5 weight 3 oz/112 yds) OR Bernat Velvet (#5 Bulky, 10.5 oz / 300 g, 315 yds, 100% polyester) – 1 skein
Tapestry needle & scissors

Techniques: Post Stitch Ribbing – this tutorial is for post stitches using double crochet, but the same theory can be applied for the half-double crochet post stitches which are used in this pattern.

Stitches: Ch, hdc, fphdc, bphdc, sc, sl st

To begin, Ch 24. Join with a sl st to form a ring, being careful not to twist.

Rnds 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 23 sts. Join with a sl st to the first hdc of the rnd. – 24 hdc.


Rnd 2: Ch 2, 1 fphdc in the same st. 1 bphdc in the next st. (1 fphdc, 1 bphdc) around. Join with a sl st to first hdc of the rnd. – 24 fp/bp hdc


Rnds 3-7: Rpt rnd 2.


Rnd 8: Ch 1 (does not count as first st), sc in same st. Sc in ea of the next 23 sts. Join with a sl st to first sc of the rnd. – 24 sc


Rnds 9 -15: Rpt Rnd 8


Rnd 16: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts. Ch 5, sk next 5 sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 19 sc, 5 ch sts


Rnd 17: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts, 1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch sts, 1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts. Join with a sl st to first sc of the rnd. – 24 sc


Rnds 18: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 23 sts. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 24 sc


Rnd 19: Ch 2 (does not count) 1 hdc in same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 23 sts. Join with a sl st to first hdc of the rnd. – 24 hdc

Rnds 20 – 21: Rpt Rnd 2



Rnd 1: Reattach yarn to one of the skipped stitches from Rnd 16. Ch 2 (does not count as first st). Hdc in the same st and in ea of the skipped stitche and in the bottom of the chain stitches. Join with a sl st in first hdc of the rnd – 10 hdc


Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count), hdc in the same st. Hdc in ea hdc around – join with a sl st. Cut yarn and tie off.


Weave in all ends and enjoy!


I recently took some updated photos to add to this post, and in those I’m also wearing the Spiral Sweater cardigan, which I also offer as a written pattern!



If fingerless mitts are REALLY your thing, you might like my Basic Armwarmers Tutorial – also a free pattern! 🙂



Spiral Sweater Pattern

During the winter I often turn to comforting, simple stitch patterns that don’t require a ton of mental fortitude (something I frequently lack during the semester). When I decided I wanted to crochet a pattern with a simple spiral design, I quickly settled on the subtle, hypnotizing rings of a continuous round worked through only the back loop. So meditative! Much Om!


The rest of the design elements of this pattern seemed to fall into place, leaving just the math for me to figure out. Well, math, and how to get pictures of it in the middle of an alternately sloppy and freezing month. Luckily we had one or two days that weren’t too cold!


I hope you find this pattern as soothing to make as I did (and as fun to wear afterward). This PDF pattern is exclusively available for 5.50 USD in my Ravelry Store or Etsy shop – Read on for more info!




The Spiral Sweater is all about the simple, elegant details – a pretty picot trim at the cuffs, some fringe for drape and movement, and an optional set of sweet half-moon pockets compliment this round-and-round circular wrap cardigan.


The circular body of the sweater is capped by shawl collar and straight sleeves, with chain cords that thread through the stitches of the fabric for a figure-flattering wrap at the waist. Simple construction makes this project suitable for Easy level crocheters, but it also features a few fun techniques including the double chain and the linked double crochet, both offered as free tutorials on my blog!

Linked Double Crochet
Double Chain


The Spiral Sweater is written for four sizes – X-small (shown in Soft & Sleek “Brownie), Small (Not pictured), Medium (Soft & Sleek “Navy”), and Large (Rustic Romantic “Window Ivy”, below). And, as usual, lots of tutorial picture references and detailed, step by step instructions are included in the PDF!



6.00 mm hk

Yarn Bee Rustic Romantic (#4, 3.5 oz / 228 yds) – 5 (6, 7, 8) skeins
Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek (#4, 5 oz / 257 yds) – 4 (5, 6, -) skeins (Soft & Sleek not recommended for size LG)
3 stitch markers (at least 2 locking)

Tapestry needle & Scissors
6″ width cardboard or book for making fringe

Finished Measurements (Approx.):
XS: Cross Back 14”, Bust 34”, Sleeve Length 18”, Sleeve Circumference 11″
SM: Cross Back 15”, Bust 36”, Sleeve Length 19”, Sleeve Circumference 12″
MD: Cross Back 16.5”, Bust 38”, Sleeve Length 20”, Sleeve Circumference 13″
LG: Cross Back 17.5”, Bust 40”, Sleeve Length 21”, Sleeve Circumference 14″

Total Length (excluding fringe): 25” (29”, 34”, 38”)

Pattern Written in US terminology.

Congratulations, you have reached the end of the text portion of this post… how about some more pictures? 😀







Linked Double Crochet Tutorial

Years ago, I was crocheting a mysterious pineapple stitch market bag (I can’t seem to locate the pattern now) when I ran up against a stitch I hadn’t yet heard of: the linked treble crochet. After a few wonky stitches representing my first learning attempts, I had a band of prettily textured, smooth treble crochet stitches without holes in between them. This seemed like a tiny miracle to me, since as we know the taller stitches in this lovely craft of ours are pretty hole-y. Which is sometimes great. But sometimes not.

That pretty linked stitch stuck in my mind long after I finished off the project, so I came back for more – and found that you could link any tall stitch, which I consider one of the handiest little bits of hook wizardry to know!

UPDATE 8/2020: There is now a video tutorial available for this stitch on my YouTube channel!


Today I want to share the Linked Double Crochet tutorial, which I think is a good introduction to linked stitches and ALSO happens to be a featured stitch in my upcoming new pattern 😉  As you’ll see, linked double crochets are a neat, nice looking and easy way to eliminate gaps between stitches, which is great tool for garments that can’t be see-through or to reinforce areas of crochet for durability.


Here is a shameless plug for the Plus Size Sol halter top pattern, in which I used linked double crochet (ldc), seen above! I also find ldc does a very nice job at creating borders for Tunisian crochet fabric like in my Shaman Coat pattern– the texture and density of the two stitch styles work well together.


Neat, huh? So let’s do this!

Linked Double Crochet (ldc)


Linked double crochet (ldc) uses the middle (horizontal) bar of the previous dc stitch to draw up a loop, instead of using a yarn over wrap as for a normal dc. This loop is then crocheted into the stitch as the yarn over would be, and the resulting stitches are linked by their horizontal bars.

Step 1: 


Beginning with the first dc of your linked double crochet section, locate the “bar” of the stitch which runs diagonally across the middle, shown here highlighted in blue. Insert your hook, from top to bottom through this one strand.

If you are beginning a new row and not starting in the middle of a row of regular stitches, you can insert through the front half of the second chain of the turning chain, or make a regular dc to start.


Step 2:


Yarn over and draw up a loop through this strand. The loop just made stands in for the YO wrap that would normally begin a double crochet stitch.

Step 3:



Insert hook into the next stitch and draw up a loop – three loops on the hook.

Step 4: 


Yarn over and draw through 2 loops.


Yarn over and draw through two loops again to complete the stitch. The new stitch now has a middle bar (bright blue) that is linked to the middle bar of the previous stitch (faded blue).

To continue, keep inserting your hook into the middle bar of the previous ldc and drawing up a loop to replace the yarn over. The result is a line of sturdy but flexible stitching with a pleasing lined texture.


Aww, it’s like they’re holding hands.

And about those linked treble crochets I mentioned at the beginning of the post – since they’ve got TWO middle bars, you can just draw up two loops – which stand in for the TWO yarn overs you would do for a regular treble. Pretty slick, eh? I think so.