Lotus Duster 2.0

Finally! I have been working on rewriting, restyling, tweaking, and expanding this design for ages, and I am so excited it’s time to premier the new version for free here on the blog! (or for purchase in PDF – read on for more info).

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Special thanks to my lovely friend Danielle for modeling for me πŸ˜€

You can get this pattern in downloadable, printable format from my Ravelry Pattern Store or my Etsy shop. The PDF version also includes a TON (100+) of bonus tutorial photos in the regular version as well as a printer-friendly file with just text!
UPDATE! A bonus PDF with instructions on how to create a hood on this garment is also now included for free! The tutorial is also available on my blog here: Lotus Hooded Duster.

UPDATE AGAIN: There is now a video tutorial underway for this design, Rounds 1-8 of which just went live! Find the video tutorial here and be sure to like and subscribe so you don’t miss the rest! I’ve created a FAQ page for this pattern as well, which can be found on my blog here.

The old version is still available on the blog for those that were in the middle of working one and want to continue with the same version. The NEW version is right here!

Stevie9

Some of the tweaks I have made to the design include reworking the neckline to make the collar more manageable (read- less ruffled), adding detailed instructions as to how to work the half rounds, rewriting the sleeve tutorial to be more precise, adding stitch counts for all the rounds on the main body, writing instructions on attaching ties, and generally cleaning up the writing style. OH, and I almost forgot – in response to many requests, there is now A LARGE SIZE! YAY! Check out the FREE pattern below!

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Lotus Mandala Duster

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Sizes Small (Left) and Large (Right)

Notes:
Reading the pattern: Pattern is written for Small with the changes for Large listed afterward – when there are no changes, directions apply to all sizes. Rows marked “Extra” with a decimal number are for Larges only (Example: “Extra Round 13.1”)

Joining the Rounds: This pattern frequently uses hdc and dc to join the rounds in the openwork portions. If you are having trouble with the round-end joins, please see my Chain & Stitch Join Tutorial at
https://moralefiber.blog/2017/07/24/chain-stitch-join-tutorial/

Color Changes: This pattern leaves you free to plan your own color changes. To change colors, cut old color and tie off, then join new color in the last stitch of the round (for solid rounds) or last chain space of the round (for openwork/lace rounds).

Yarns Used: The Small size Duster (pictured above on the left) is made with yarns recycled from sweaters. You can find a tutorial for how to reclaim yarn on my blog at:
http://wp.me/p5Dj8T-3d
The Large duster (pictured on the right) is made with the yarn listed in the Materials section.

Materials
5.5 mm hook (I always use an in-line hook for these)
Premier Cotton Fair (#2, 3.5 oz, 317 yds) – 6 skeins
Scissors & Tapestry Needle

Gauge: 3β€³ measured across the diameter after Rnd 3.

Final Dimensions:
SMALL: 22.5β€³ radius (measured from center of motif to bottom edge)
50β€³ diameter (measured from collar to bottom edge)
Up to 36” bust
LARGE: 26.5” radius
53” diameter
Up to 42” bust

Some terms:

Dc with last loop on the hook: YO once, insert hk into next st/sp, draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 lps on the hook. 2 lps remain on the hook (1 original and 1 left unworked from the dc stitch).

4-DC Cluster – Work 4 dc stitches, keeping the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 5 loops on the hook.

3-dc cluster – Work 3 dc stitches leaving the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 4 loops on the hook.

Shell – 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc

Main Body

  1. Make magic ring. 8 sc into the ring, tighten. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round. – 8 sc
  1. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sc, ch 1) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-4. – 8 dc + 8 spaces
  1. Sl st into the next ch-1 space, ch 2 – counts as first dc with last loop on the hook. Dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 6 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin your next round. – 8 clusters + 8 spaces
  1. Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on hk, dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. 16 clusters + 16 spaces
  1. Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on the hk. Dc into the same space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster into the next ch-2 space, ch 3) 14 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster to join. – 16 clusters + 16 spaces
  1. Ch 3 – counts as first dc, 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3. (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 16 sets of 3 dc + 16 spaces
  1. Sl st in the top of the next dc. (Sk next dc. In the next ch-3 space work 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc – shell made. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc) 16 times. Join with a sl st in first sl st. – 16 shells
  1. Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch 3, sc in the top of next tr stitch in the middle of the shell, ch 3. (Dc in the next sl st between shells, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 32 spaces
  1. Ch 3. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next sc and draw up a lp, (YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk) twice – one treble stitch leaving last lp on the hk made. Treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk – 3 lps remain on the hk. YO, draw through all 3 lps, ch 7. (In the last st worked the previous tr3tog, work 1 treble crochet leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk – 4 lps on the hk. YO, draw through all four lps on hk – tr3tog made, ch 7.) 15 times. Join with a sl st in top of first tr3tog. – 16 tr3tog + 16 spaces

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  1. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Work 1dc in the top of the next tr3tog st, ch 1) 15 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Sl st into 3rdch of beg ch-4. Β – 48 clusters + 16 dc
  1. (Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Skip next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space, ch 3. Sk next cluster and space, sl st in next dc.) 15 times. Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Sk next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space. Sk next cluster and space, dc in same st as the sl st join of the previous round. – 32 clusters
  2. Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk. Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and draw through both lps on the hook – first tr2tog made. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the top of the next cluster. Sk next 2 chain-3 spaces, work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and pull through all 3 lps. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the first tr2tog. – 16 clusters + 16 tr2tog + 32 chain spaces
    DSC_1164.jpg
  3. Sl st in the next ch-4 space, ch 3 – counts as first dc. Work 4 dc in the same space. (1 dc in top of the next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-4 space, 1 dc in top of the next tr2tog, 5 dc in next ch-4 space) 15 times. Work 1 dc in top of next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, 1 dc in top of tr2tog. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 192 dc sts

Extra Rnd 13.1 (Extra rounds are only worked for size Large – see pattern Notes) : Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 22 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 23 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 200 dc sts

Extra Rnd 13.2: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 23 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 24 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 208 dc sts

  1. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) 95, 103 Join with a sl stitch to the 3rdch of beg ch-4. – 96 dc + 96 ch-1 spaces, 104 dc + 104 ch-1 spaces.
  1. (Sk next ch-1 space. Work 1 hdc in the next dc. In the same st work 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc – scallop made. Skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc) 48, 52 Join with a sl st in the same st as join from the previous rnd. – 48 scallops, 52 scallops

When working with multiple colors, I always change colors after Rnd 15 – otherwise, the pretty scallops become hard to see after the next rnd.

  1. Ch 3 –counts as first dc. Sk next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next st (1 hdc in the next st, sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st) 47, 51 Hdc in next stitch, sk next st, join with a sl st to the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 192, 208 sts
  1. Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. (Sk next st, dc in next stitch, ch 2) 94, 102 Sk next st,dc in the next stitch. Hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5. – 96, 104 ch spaces

Extra Rnd 17.1 – Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 2) 102 times. Dc in the next space, hdc in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-5 to join. – 104 ch spaces

Β 

  1. Sc in the space formed by the hdc join of the previous rnd. Ch 3. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 3) 94, 102 Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 96, 104 ch spaces

Rnds 19-20. Rpt rnd 18.

Extra Round 20.1: Rpt Rnd 18 once more

Sleeve Yoke round:

21. Ch 3. (1 dc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 10,14 times. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 63, 65 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, sl st in the 3rdΒ ch of beg ch-3.- 84, 90 ch-1 spaces and 2 long chain loops that form the upper halves of the sleeve yokes

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22. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9, 13 times**. 1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 63, 65 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, join with a sl st to the 3rdΒ ch of beg ch-3. – 460, 488 sts

** Moving the armholes further apart or closer together to adjust the garment to your measurements will change this count. Just remember that any V-stitch in between the shoulder yokes should have 1 dc per space, not 3 as with the rest of the round.

23. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (Sk next three sts, 1 dc in the next st. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st) 114, 121 times. Sk next three sts, dc in the next st, ch 1. Hdc in the 3rdΒ ch of beg ch-3 to join. – 115, 122 V-stitches

24. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (1 dc in the next ch sp, ch 3, dc in the same space) 114, 121 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the 3rdΒ ch of beg ch-3. – 115, 122 V-stitches

25. Sc in space formed by the hdc join of the previous round, ch 4. (Sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4) 113, 120 times. Β Sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces

26. Sc in the space formed by the dc join of the previous rnd, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 4) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next ch sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces

27.Sc in the same sp, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 5) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next space, ch 2, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces

28-30. Rpt rnd 27.

Extra Rnd 30.1-30.2: Rpt rnd 27 two more times

31. Sc in the same sp, ch 6. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 113, 120times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces

Extra Rnd 31.1: Rpt Rnd 31

32. Sc in the same sp, 6 dc in next sc – one fan made. (1 sc in next ch-6 sp, 6 dc in next sc) 114, 121 times, join with a sl st in first sc of the round. – 115, 122 fans

33. Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st (the third dc of the fan), ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2. (sk 2 sts, dc in next sc, ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rdΒ dc of next fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2) 113,120 times. Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next sc, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rdΒ dc of next fan. Ch 1, sc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the 3rdΒ ch of beg ch-5 to join. – 345, 366 chain spaces

34. Ch 4 – counts as first hdc + ch 2. (Hdc in the next ch-2 space, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2) 114, 121 times. Hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, hdc in the 2ndΒ ch of beg ch-2 to join. – 345, 366 ch spaces made

Working the following rounds on the top half only:

35. Ch 3. (Dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 1, dc in the same sp) 171, 191 times. Ch 3, Sl st in the next ch-2 space. Ch 3, turn. – 171, 191 dc V-stitches

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36. Sk first ch-3 space. Work 1 dc, leaving last lp on the hook in the next ch-1 space. Work 2 more dc with the last lp on the hook in the same space. YO and draw through all 4 lps on the hook – 1 3-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2) 169, 189 times. 3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 space, ch 3. Sk next ch space, sl st in the next hdc. Ch 3, turn. – 171, 191 dc clusters

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Work next round over entire circle.

37. 3 dc in the first ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 171, 191 times. 3 dc in the next ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 172, 173 times. 3 dc in the next chain space. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 1036, 1101 dc

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Cut yarn and tie off.

Sleeves:

Step 1. Attach yarn on the inside of the armhole, in the side of the last dc before the armhole on Rnd 21. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1, 2 dc more in the side of the dc. 2, 3 dc in each of the 8, 9 chain spaces – including the spaces that the v-stitches from Rnd 21 are worked into. 2, 3 dc into the side of the other Rnd 21 dc on the opposite end of the armhole. 1 dc into the base of all 30, 33 ch sts. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. – 50, 66 Β dc

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Step 2. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. – 25, 33 ch-1 spaces

Β DSC_1397

Step 3. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sp, ch 1) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. – 25, 33 ch-1 spaces

After a couple rows of this, size down to a smaller hook if desired. I sized down to 4.5 to make the sleeve snug on my upper arm.

Rpt Step 3 until your total reaches 23 rows, or until the length reaches just below your elbow.

Locate the ch space that is centered at the back of the elbow and mark it. (14thΒ space from the join for me, 17th on the large) This will now be the increase center.

Step 4. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center. The middle chain space made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc join in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-4.

Repeat Step 4 until short side of sleeve is about mid-forearm (11 rounds for me)

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Step 5. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the space before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the next space – increase made. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center – increase made. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the space after the increase center- increase made. The middle chain space made in the middle increase is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending on a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.

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Shown above is the three adjacent increases made after Step 5, each with the center space of the increase marked.

Step 6. Ch 4– counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the middle of one increase before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the third increase. The middle chain space in the middle increase made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.

Β DSC_1426

(Basically, put a 3-space increase in the center of each increase, dc + ch 1 in every other space.)

Step 7. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the sp, ch 1) rpt the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.

Rpt Step 7 until the length reaches your wrist, or as many times as desired.

Step 8. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space. 1 dc in the next dc. (2 dc in next ch-1 space, 1 dc in next dc) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

-To add even more ruffle, increase the amount of dc sts per chain space.
– For extra length or added detailing, Rpt Step 8 then follow Steps 9 – 11

Step 9. Β Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in ea st around. Join with a sl st in top of beg chain

Step 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Step 11: Ch 1 – counts as first sc. Sc in the next space. (Sc in the next dc, sc in the next space) rpt around. Join with a sl st to the beg ch.

Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat sleeve on the other side. Remember that if you start your second sleeve in the same place as the first, you will need to re-measure to find the space at the elbow before Step 4 – it may not be the same as you will be working in the opposite direction.

Weave in all ends.

Ties:

Beginning with the shell below the last cluster on the end of Rnd 36, place marker. Repeat on the other side. WS facing (or on the β€œinside” of the duster), attach yarn to the edge of the marked shell. Sl st in each stitch of the shells around, ending at the shell with the other marker. Be sure to keep your gauge fairly loose. Cut yarn and tie off, weave in ends.

Note: For larger sizes, you may want to move the row of slip stitching for the ties out to the very last round of the garment so that it can tie across the full front of the torso. Test your tie placement with the jacket on before deciding!

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Shown above is the slip stitching that reinforces the shells in preparation for attaching ties, worked in a contrasting color so you can see – I actually did the ties in the same white color as the rest of the garment.

Locate the shell in the middle of the two previously marked shells and mark it. This shell should fall in the center of your back when you try the coat on – if not, adjust placement so that it does.

With the coat on, decide where you want your ties to be and mark those shells with stitch markers. Take the coat off and make sure that your placement is even, using the middle marked shell as a guide. I like to do 3-4 ties on each side, 2-3 shells apart, beginning just above the apex of the bust.

Cut 6 1-yard long strands of yarn. Fold into a loop and pull through the middle slip stitch of the first shell on either side. Draw tail ends through the loop and tighten – separate into 3 bundles of four strands and braid to the end. Tie off. Cut 6 more strands, repeat the process of attaching to your next marked shell and braid. Repeat on one side, then switch to the other side and repeat process for as many ties as you like.

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Weave in all ends and block if desired. Congratulations on your new Lotus Mandala Duster!

(Individual artisans may feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern – just please link back to me!)

Time for more pictures!

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And I FINALLY made one just for me, as an early birthday present to myself:

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If you liked this pattern please consider sharing on Ravelry! I love seeing everyone’s awesome projects!

-MF

307 thoughts on “Lotus Duster 2.0

    • Hi there. I’m currently doing your Lotus Mandala duster. I’m working with a size 3 yarn for the mandala part and a size 5 for the “body”. And adding the extra rows to make it a Size XL. The size 5 yarn I’m using isn’t actually that big, I think it’s deems a 5 because it has alot of “loose hair” for the yarn yet it’s not thick and is only slightly larger than the size 3 yarn. Since I’m only 5’1″ I’ll also have to compensate for the length at the bottom. I’m looking forward to seeing how this comes out. I’m really enjoying the pattern video. It really helps since I’m still new to crotchet. Thanks for a great pattern.

      Charley…

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      • Wow that sounds stunning Charley! I love those yarns that are labelled a certain number when they obviously don’t work up the same way as the other yarns in that category πŸ˜‰ πŸ˜‰ lol! I’m writing a blog post about yarn gauge and other yarn weirdness right now and I included a few paragraphs about that very thing! I hope everything is going well with the video to help you but if you have any specific questions you know where to find me πŸ™‚ Thanks for the feedback!

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    • I just wanted to say what a joy it was doing this pattern two different ways. First was with thicker yarn to make a heavier duster for winter, and second was to only use part of your pattern to make a doilie…..my friend saw the duster and wanted it made as her doilie. Hoping that doesn’t offend you!

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  1. Hi! thanks for this great pattern! I have a question though… I am one of those very very tall Dutch woman.😁 I am 6.1 ft and 220 pounds. so yes, I made MASSIVE changes in row/ stitch count. HIHI! my issue is going to be the “round 35, top half” thing. I probably have about ten more rounds or so and way more stitches. I did not count my improvising yet.πŸ˜‚ what if i divide my stitch count in half (roughly) and make the extra rounds on the top half? do you think that would work?
    I am almost at that point, so i hope i get an answer i time. otherwise it will be a few times redoing some half rounds. hihi! again, thank you so much! love this pattern and going to make at least one more!

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    • Hi Catinka! So glad you enjoy the design – I’d love to hear some notes on how you expanded the size, I’m looking into writing some more sizes into this pattern and if you want to add your feedback I’d appreciate it greatly ❀

      As for how to approach the top half, yes you should take the number of stitches total and divide it by 2. You can find the middle stitch between the shoulderblades and measure the top half by counting a quarter of the stitches in each direction.

      You can also add extra rounds only on this top portion once you measure it off πŸ™‚

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  2. Hi, I love this pattern! I recently made this for myself in an ombrΓ© grey. I love it and so does everyone else. I was going to ask about a plus size pattern but you basically have answered my question on another ladies post. I am making this for my neighbor and she does not want a hood, she wants a cowl. Would I add extra rows at row 35? What would you suggest?

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    • Hi Pixie, I’m not sure how one would attach a cowl to this piece… do you mean she just wants an extra long side on the neck portion? I traditionally think of a cowl as a circle or loop of fabric that is connected, which I have no idea how I would do on this particular garment.

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      • If she wanted it attached to the piece, you would need to measure out on the top where her neck/head would sit along the back and from there make a chain long enough to slip over her head and just attach it to the other side, from there just work up from the chain and along the back side. you could essentially use any cowl pattern that would match or be adjusted to the stitch count you have as your “base chain”. Hope this helps any one in the future πŸ™‚

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  3. Pingback: Lotus Mandala Video Tutorial Part 1 | Morale Fiber

  4. Pingback: Lotus Mandala Duster FAQ | Morale Fiber

  5. Pingback: Lotus Mandala Video Tutorial | Morale Fiber

  6. Pingback: Lotus Duster 2.0 | Morale Fiber – Crochet by me.

  7. Question? I notice you commented about color change after row 15. When did you go back to those colors for ruffles at bottom and on sleeves and neck. I don’t see a color change row comment after the first time.

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    • Hi Kriste,
      This pattern is written without yarn color change specifications. I almost never change the colors at the same point and I don’t usually use commercial yarns to make these, so I just left it up to the individual to decide when to change colors on this piece πŸ™‚ You can change colors at any point as long as you begin in the same stitch as the one you left off.

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  8. Pingback: Tree of Life Mandala | Morale Fiber

  9. Hi ! I am going to attempt to make this piece…i want to use various colors but have no idea when it change them…I like the purpley one and am going to do something similar. Are there any suggestions you can give me as to where in the pattern to switch?
    thanks!
    Sue

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    • Hi Sue! The purple-y one works the first 15 rounds in the same color (a variegated handspun yarn) then switches. I always switch at Round 16, and usually also around 21, 25, 32, 36, 37, and at the border of the sleeves πŸ™‚ Its always a bit different though ,depending on my yarn and how I feel! πŸ™‚

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  10. Woohoo !!! I finally started this Duster. I have been agonizing over what colours to make it for months and finally chose a Stylecraft premium acrylic yarn called Cabaret in the colourway Rainbow. As soon as I saw it I knew it was destined to become one of your dusters. It changes colour on its own so no decisions there and it has a bit of bling with a metallic thread running through it. I’m in love with it already. But just wanted to say that when I got to the treble triangle round I hated the loose tops of the triples so in the round of the 3 clusters I front posted around the triangle tops and that made my mess disappear. I hope you don’t mind my addition to your pattern I can make a neat tidy treble cluster at the top. Thanks for making your You Tube tutorial, its wonderful.

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    • That’s a wonderful idea! Mostly the looseness of the treble triangles disappear when the final piece is stretched and the stitches loosen up after a few wears – but yes, it bothers me too!! One thing I have thought about doing is reducing the central stitch to a double instead of a treble, so that the cluster goes treble-double-treble, but I haven’t experimented with that yet πŸ˜‰

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  11. Pingback: Lotus Duster Video Tutorial Part 4 | Morale Fiber

  12. I am so confused of where to begin where it says top half only step 35, and excited for next YouTube videos that are hopefully coming really soon.

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    • Lol, I just filmed Round 35 yesterday πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚ Not too much longer! As for where to start, you should start exactly where Round 34 ends. You don’t have to move your position at all – just keep following the instructions

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  13. Pingback: Winter Projects | Morale Fiber

  14. Pingback: Lotus Video Tutorial Part 5 | Morale Fiber

  15. Info on how to work out the half way point for rounds 34+35 would be helpful, I keep getting it wrong and I’ve re done it 4 bloody times now!!!

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    • Hi there! There is now a video tutorial series for this project, and in Part 5 I explain more thoroughly how to work out the center portion of the rounds in question. Check it out here!:

      And let me know if you have any other questions! πŸ™‚

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  16. Hi Regina,
    Do you know if this lovely crochet duster jacket has been written made using UK terminology at all?
    I’m in Australia and we tend to use English terminology.
    I can change the stitch names using the computer find and replace but I’m sure I’ll mess it up somehow πŸ™‚
    Thank so much for any help,
    Jann Parkes

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    • Hi Jann! Currently this pattern is only available in US terms and translated into Dutch. I’m interested in getting it translated into other languages though, so I’ll make sure to keep UK terminology in mind if I can get that to happen! πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚

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  17. My lotus pattern ( the center part) is curling really badly. And I’ve been crocheting for years so I know it’s not tight. Do you think it makes a difference if you aren’t using cotton? The pattern didn’t say anything about fiber type (that I saw). Thanks Nicole

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    • Hi Nicole! if you have checked your gauge, it shouldn’t matter that much what kind of yarn you are using. I suspect if the curl is that bad, there’s a different issue. What round of the pattern are you on?

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  18. Hi, I absolutely love this!! I am wanting to make it for myself but I am an xl girl. How do I go about the increase for that?
    Thank you

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    • Hi Laura! There are some strategies to expand the size from Large to XL, even though XL isn’t written specifically into the pattern. You can find those strategies written out on the FAQ page, and if you want you can also follow the video tutorial, which also goes over some size expansion strategies (specifically ones for bigger busts, which need to expand the top half portion of the pattern only – that’s in Part 5)
      You can find the link to the video and the sizing up instructions here πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚
      https://moralefiber.blog/2019/10/22/lotus-mandala-duster-faq/
      Thanks and let me know if you have any other questions πŸ™‚

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  19. Hello. When I was making this, I went with the small because my bust was only off by just an inch, but when I got to the sleeves I realized how small they were and I had to chain an extra thirty so it could wrap around my arm. I can still go back and change it now, so are the sleeves supposed to stretch? And if I did the logical thing by adding more chains, how much is that going to change the patterns? Will it still work in the end as long as I remember I added 30 chains? I’m very sorry, I’m a beginning crocheter.

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    • No problem Abigail! Garments are tricky, but the best way to learn them is just to go for it in my experience, so well done πŸ™‚ There’s a definite ratio for expanding the armholes, and that can be found explained in the FAQ for this design, which goes into some details as to how to change the size to adjust for fit. That post can be found here:
      https://moralefiber.blog/2019/10/22/lotus-mandala-duster-faq/
      There is also a video tutorial linked in that post, which might be useful to you later on, Part 5 discusses how to expand the top half for bust adjustments AND how to find the “center” of the garment at the collar (which you will need to do later, because you have adjust the armholes you won’t be able to work the pattern following the same stitch counts as are written).
      Thanks and I hope that helps – if you need more specific advice (now or later) please feel free to ask!

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    • Oh, and I forgot to mention, the sleeves won’t really stretch much because the chain stitches tend to stay pretty firm, so adjusting the sleeves is absolutely what you should do πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚ Chaining an extra thirty is a lot though,you might have better luck making some of the other adjustments mentioned in the FAQ as well.

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      • Okay, turns out I messed up when I was measuring the first time and I actually only need to chain 6 more, whoops. I’m glad I caught that before I went and chained another 30. So sorry for bothering you! I could have figured this out myself.

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  20. Pingback: Sunflower Lotus Vest | Morale Fiber

  21. Thank you! Thank you! Thank YOU!!
    I’ve worked your pattern and adjusted it to a sleavless vest! Oh my god do I LOVE it!!

    It is flowy, chic and AMAZING!

    Greatings from Egypt. ❀️❀️❀️

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