Finally! I have been working on rewriting, restyling, tweaking, and expanding this design for ages, and I am so excited it’s time to premier the new version for free here on the blog! (or for purchase in PDF – read on for more info).
You can get this pattern in downloadable, printable format from my Ravelry Pattern Store , my Etsy shop, or my Ko-Fi Shop!
UPDATE! A bonus PDF with instructions on how to create a hood on this garment is also now included for free! The tutorial is also available on my blog here: Lotus Hooded Duster.
UPDATE AGAIN: There is now a video tutorial underway for this design, Rounds 1-8 of which just went live! Find the video tutorial here and be sure to like and subscribe so you don’t miss the rest! I’ve created a FAQ page for this pattern as well, which can be found on my blog here.
The old version is still available on the blog for those that were in the middle of working one and want to continue with the same version. The NEW version is right here!
Some of the tweaks I have made to the design include reworking the neckline to make the collar more manageable (read- less ruffled), adding detailed instructions as to how to work the half rounds, rewriting the sleeve tutorial to be more precise, adding stitch counts for all the rounds on the main body, writing instructions on attaching ties, and generally cleaning up the writing style. OH, and I almost forgot – in response to many requests, there is now A LARGE SIZE! YAY! Check out the FREE pattern below!
Lotus Mandala Duster
Notes:
Reading the pattern: Pattern is written for Small with the changes for Large listed afterward – when there are no changes, directions apply to all sizes. Rows marked “Extra” with a decimal number are for Larges only (Example: “Extra Round 13.1”)
Joining the Rounds: This pattern frequently uses hdc and dc to join the rounds in the openwork portions. If you are having trouble with the round-end joins, please see my Chain & Stitch Join Tutorial at
https://moralefiber.blog/2017/07/24/chain-stitch-join-tutorial/
Color Changes: This pattern leaves you free to plan your own color changes. To change colors, cut old color and tie off, then join new color in the last stitch of the round (for solid rounds) or last chain space of the round (for openwork/lace rounds).
Yarns Used: The Small size Duster (pictured above on the left) is made with yarns recycled from sweaters. You can find a tutorial for how to reclaim yarn on my blog here.
VIDEO RESOURCES:
This entire pattern is demonstrated in my free video tutorial series on my YouTube channel here.
The Large duster (pictured on the right) is made with the yarn listed in the Materials section.
***Please note that the all-white example piece pictured in the pattern is the ONLY duster I’ve ever made with totally commercial yarn. All other dusters have been made with a mixture of scrap, hand-dyed, hand-spun, and recycled yarn from thrifted sweaters (as mentioned in previous paragraph) and I therefore can’t give you recommendations on how to recreate any of the examples using commercial yarn except for the one already listed in the pattern! Thanks for understanding 🙂
Materials
5.5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
Premier Cotton Fair (#2, 3.5 oz, 317 yds) – 6 skeins
Scissors & Tapestry Needle
Gauge: 3″ measured across the diameter after Rnd 3.
Final Dimensions:
SMALL: 22.5″ radius (measured from center of motif to bottom edge)
50″ diameter (measured from collar to bottom edge)
Up to 36” bust
LARGE: 26.5” radius
53” diameter
Up to 42” bust
Some terms:
Dc with last loop on the hook: YO once, insert hk into next st/sp, draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 lps on the hook. 2 lps remain on the hook (1 original and 1 left unworked from the dc stitch).
4-DC Cluster – Work 4 dc stitches, keeping the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 5 loops on the hook.
3-dc cluster – Work 3 dc stitches leaving the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 4 loops on the hook.
Shell – 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc
Main Body
Rnd 1: 8 sc into the ring, tighten – figs 1-2. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round. – 8 sc
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1 – fig 3. (Dc in the next sc, ch 1) 7 times – fig 4. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 – fig 5. – 8 dc + 8 spaces
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Rnd 3: Sl st into the next ch-1 space, ch 2 – counts as first dc with last loop on the hook – fig 6. Dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook – fig 7. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – fig 8. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 6 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp – fig 9, ch 1. Hdc in the top of the first cluster to join – figs 10-. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin your next round. – 8 clusters + 8 spaces
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fig.9
Fig. 10
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
Rnd 4: Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on hk, – fig 13, dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook – fig 14. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 2 – fig 15. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times – figs 16-17. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-3 space – fig 18, work 1 hdc in the top of the first cluster to join – fig 19. 16 clusters + 16 spaces
Fig. 13
Fig. 14
Fig. 15
Fig. 16
Fig. 17
Fig. 18
Fig. 19
Round 5: Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on the hk – fig 20. Dc into the same space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps. Ch 3 – fig 21. (Work 1 4-dc cluster into the next ch-2 space, ch 3) 14 times – fig 22. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster to join – fig 23. – 16 clusters + 16 spaces
Fig. 20
Fig. 21
Fig. 23
Fig. 23
Rnd 6: Ch 3 – counts as first dc – fig 24, 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3 – fig 25. (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 15 times – fig 26. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 27. – 16 sets of 3 dc + 16 spaces
Fig. 24
Fig. 25
Fig. 26
Fig. 27
Rnd 7: Sl st in the top of the next dc – fig 28. (Sk next dc. In the next ch-3 space work 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc – shell made – fig 29. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc – fig 30) 16 times. Join with a sl st in first sl st – fig 31.– 16 shells
Fig. 28
Fig. 29
Fig. 30
Fig. 31
Rnd 8: Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch 3, sc in the top of next tr stitch in the middle of the shell – fig 32, ch 3. (Dc in the next sl st between shells – fig 33, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 34. – 32 spaces
Fig. 32
Fig. 33
Fig. 34
Rnd 9: Ch 3 – fig 35. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next sc and draw up a lp, (YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk) twice – one treble stitch leaving last lp on the hk made – fig 36. Treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk – 3 lps remain on the hk – fig 37. YO, draw through all 3 lps, ch 7 – figs 38-39. (In the last st worked in the previous tr3tog, work 1 treble crochet leaving last lp on hk – fig 40. Work 1 treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk – 4 lps on the hk – fig 41. YO, draw through all four lps on hk – tr3tog made, ch 7.) 15 times – fig 43. Join with a sl st in top of first tr3tog. – 16 tr3tog + 16 spaces
Fig. 35
Fig. 36
Fig. 37
Fig. 38
Fig. 39
Fig. 40
Fig. 41
Fig. 42
Fig. 43
Rnd 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1 – fig 44. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1 – fig 45. Work 1dc in the top of the next tr3tog st, ch 1 – fig 46) 15 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch-4 – fig 47 – 48 clusters + 16 dc
Fig. 44
Fig. 45
Fig. 46
Fig. 47
Rnd 11: (Ch 3 – fig 48. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2 – fig 49. Skip next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space, ch 3 – fig 50. Sk next cluster and space, sl st in next dc – fig 51.) 15 times. Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Sk next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space – fig 52. Sk next cluster and space, dc in same st as the sl st join of the previous round – figs 53-55. – 32 clusters
Fig. 48
Fig. 49
Fig. 50
Fig. 51
Fig. 52
Fig. 53
Fig. 54
Fig. 55
Rnd 12: Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk – fig 56. Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster – fig 57. YO and draw through both lps on the hook – first tr2tog made – fig 58. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4 – fig 59. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the top of the next cluster. Sk next 2 chain-3 spaces, work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and pull through all 3 lps – figs 60-61. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the first tr2tog – figs 62-63. – 16 clusters + 16 tr2tog + 32 chain spaces
Fig. 56
Fig. 57
Fig. 58
Fig. 59
Fig. 60
Fig. 61
Fig. 62
Fig. 63
Rnd 13: Sl st in the next ch-4 space, ch 3 – fig 64 -counts as first dc. Work 4 dc in the same space. (1 dc in top of the next cluster – fig 65, 5 dc in next ch-4 space – fig 66, 1 dc in top of the next tr2tog, 5 dc in next ch-4 space – fig 67) 15 times. Work 1 dc in top of next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, 1 dc in top of tr2tog. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 68. – 192 dc sts
Fig. 64
Fig. 65
Fig. 66
Fig. 67
Fig. 68
Extra Rnd 13.1: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 22 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 23 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times – fig 69. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 200 dc sts
Fig. 69
Extra Rnd 13.2: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 23 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 24 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 70 – 208 dc sts
Fig. 70
Rnd 14: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc – fig 71, ch 1, sk next dc) 95, 103 times. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 – fig 72. – 96 dc + 96 ch-1 spaces, 104 dc + 104 ch-1 spaces.
Fig. 71
Fig. 72
Rnd 15: (Sk next ch-1 space. Work 1 hdc in the next dc. In the same st work 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc – scallop made – fig 73. Skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc – fig 74) 48, 52 times. Join with a sl st in the same st as join from the previous rnd – fig 75. – 48 scallops, 52 scallops
Fig. 73
Fig. 74
Fig. 75
When working with multiple colors, I always change colors after Rnd 15 – otherwise, the pretty scallops become hard to see after the next rnd.
Rnd 16: Ch 3 –counts as first dc. Sk next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next st (1 hdc in the next st – fig 76, sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st – fig 77) 47, 51 times. Hdc in next stitch, sk next st, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 78. – 192, 208 sts
Fig. 76
Fig. 77
Fig. 78
Rnd 17: Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. (Sk next st, dc in next stitch – fig 79, ch 2) 94, 102 times – fig 80. Sk next st,dc in the next stitch. Hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join – figs 81-82. – 96, 104 ch spaces
Fig. 79
Fig. 80
Fig. 81
Fig. 82
Extra Rnd 17.1 – Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2 – fig 83. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 2) 102 times – figs 84-85. Dc in the next space, hdc in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-5 to join. – 104 ch spaces
Fig. 83
Fig. 84
Fig. 85
Rnd 18: Sc in the space formed by the hdc join of the previous rnd- fig 86. Ch 3. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 3) 94, 102 times – fig 87. Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 96, 104 ch spaces
Fig. 86
Fig. 87
Rnds 19-20. Rpt rnd 18 – figs 88-89
Extra Round 20.1: Rpt Rnd 18 once more – figs 90-91
Fig. 88
Fig. 89
Fig. 90
Fig. 91
Sleeve Yoke round:
Rnd 21: Ch 3. (1 dc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times – fig 92. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces – fig 93, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space – fig 94) 10,14 times. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 63, 65 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
At the end of the round you should have 84, 90 ch-1 spaces and 2 long chain loops.
Note: You can add or subtract length from the sleeve yoke chain by adding or subtracting multiples of 3 chain stitches. For every 3 chains added or lost, be sure to skip or not skip 1 chain space on the row below – this makes the ratio 3 ch sts = 1 V-stitch space.
You can also adjust the fit of the garment by moving the armholes closer together (smaller fit, fewer v-stitches in between armhole chains) or wider apart (larger fit, more v-stitches in between armhole chains).
Fig. 92
Fig. 93
Fig. 94
Rnd 22: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, 1 dc in the next dc – fig 95. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts – fig 96. 1 dc in the next dc (1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9, 13 times**(See notes below) – fig 97. 1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 63, 65 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 460, 488 sts
** Moving the armholes further apart or closer together in the last round to adjust the garment to your measurements will change the number of repeats here. V-stitches that occur in between the two shoulder yokes at this point should have 1 dc per space, not 3 as with the rest of the round, so just place 1 dc in all V-sts here.
Fig. 95
Fig. 96
Fig. 97
Rnd 23: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (Sk next three sts, 1 dc in the next st. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st) 114, 121 times – fig 98. Sk next three sts, dc in the next st, ch 1. Hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 to join. – 115, 122 V-stitches
Fig. 98
Rnd 24: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (1 dc in the next ch sp, ch 3, dc in the same space) 114, 121 times – fig 99. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 115, 122 V-stitches
Fig. 99
Rnd 25: Sc in space formed by the hdc join of the previous round, ch 4. (Sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round – fig 100. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Fig. 100
Rnd 26: Sc in the space formed by the dc join of the previous rnd, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 4) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next ch sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Rnd 27: Sc in the same sp, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 5) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next space, ch 2, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Rnds 28-30. Rpt rnd 27.
Extra Rnd 30.1-30.2: Rpt rnd 27 two more times
Rnd 31: Sc in the same sp, ch 6. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 113, 120times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Extra Rnd 31.1: Rpt Rnd 31 – fig 101
Fig. 101
Rnd 32: Sc in the same sp, 6 dc in next sc – one fan made – fig 102. (1 sc in next ch-6 sp – fig 103, 6 dc in next sc) 114, 121 times, join with a sl st in first sc of the round. – 115, 122 fans
Fig. 102
Fig. 103
Rnd 33: Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st (the third dc of the fan) – fig 104, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2 – fig 105. (sk 2 sts, dc in next sc, ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rd dc of next fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2) 113,120 times. Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next sc, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rd dc of next fan. Ch 1, sc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. – 345, 366 chain spaces
Fig. 104
Fig. 105
Rnd 34: Ch 4 – counts as first hdc + ch 2. (Hdc in the next ch-2 space, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2) 114, 121 times. Hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, hdc in the 2nd ch of beg ch-2 to join. – 345, 366 ch spaces made
Working the following rounds on the top half ( the half with the armholes) only, beginning exactly where the last round left off:
Rnd 35: Ch 3. (Dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 1, dc in the same sp – fig 106) 171, 191 times. Ch 3, Sl st in the next ch-2 space – fig 107. Ch 3, turn. – 171, 191 dc V-stitches
Fig. 106
Fig. 107
Rnd 36: Sk first ch-3 space. Work 1 dc, leaving last lp on the hook in the next ch-1 space. Work 2 more dc with the last lp on the hook in the same space – fig 108. YO and draw through all 4 lps on the hook – 1 3-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2 – fig 109) 169, 189 times. 3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 space, ch 3. Sk next ch space, sl st in the next hdc – fig 110. Ch 3, turn. – 171, 191 dc clusters
Fig. 108
Fig. 109
Fig. 110
The next round returns to working over the entire circular edge of the garment.
Rnd 37: 3 dc in the first ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 171, 191 times – fig 111. 3 dc in the next ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 172, 173 times. 3 dc in the next chain space. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 112. – 1036, 1095 dc
Fig. 111
Fig. 112
Cut yarn and tie off.
Sleeves:
Fig. 113
Step 1. Attach yarn on the inside of the armhole, in the side of the last dc before the armhole on Rnd 21 (in fig. 113, this is the final dc on the v-stitch on the right side of the hole). Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1, 2 dc more in the side of the dc – fig 114. 2, 3 dc in each of the 8, 9 chain spaces – including the spaces that the v-stitches from Rnd 21 are worked into – fig 116. 2, 3 dc into the side of the other Rnd 21 dc on the opposite end of the armhole. 1 dc into the base of all 30, 33 ch sts – fig 117. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. – 50, 66 dc
Fig. 114
Fig. 115
Fig. 116
Fig. 117
Step 2. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join – fig 118. – 25, 33 ch-1 spaces
Fig. 118
Step 3. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sp, ch 1) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. – 25, 33 ch-1 spaces
After a couple rows of this, size down to a smaller hook if desired. I sized down to 4.5 to make the sleeve snug on my upper arm.
Rpt Step 3 until your total reaches 23 rows, or until the length reaches just below your elbow – fig 119.
Fig. 119
Locate the ch space that is centered at the back of the elbow and mark it. (14th space from the join for me, 17th on the large) This will now be the increase center.
Step 4. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center – fig 120. The middle chain space made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc join in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-4.
Fig. 120
Fig. 121
Fig. 122
Fig. 123
Repeat Step 4 until short side of sleeve is about mid-forearm (11 rounds for me). Each time you hit the increase center, move the stitch marker to the center ch-1 space of the increase point, marking your new increase point for the next round – Figs 121-123.
Step 5. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the space before the increase center – fig 124. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the next space – increase made. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center – increase made – fig 125. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the space after the increase center- increase made – fig 126. The middle chain space made in the middle increase is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending on a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join – fig 127.
Fig. 124
Fig. 125
Fig.126
Fig. 127: Shown above is the three adjacent increases made after Step 5, each with the center space of the increase marked.
Step 6. Ch 4– counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the middle of one increase before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces – fig 128. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the third increase – fig 129. The middle chain space in the middle increase made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.
Fig. 128
Fig. 129
(Basically, put a 3-space increase in the center of each increase, dc + ch 1 in every other space.)
Step 7. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the sp, ch 1) rpt the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join – fig 130.
Fig. 130
Rpt Step 7 until the length reaches your wrist, or as many times as desired.
Step 8. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space. 1 dc in the next dc. (2 dc in next ch-1 space, 1 dc in next dc – fig 131) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 132.
Fig. 131
Fig. 132
Step 9. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in ea st around. Join with a sl st in top of beg chain.
Step 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
Step 11: Ch 1 – counts as first sc. Sc in the next space. (Sc in the next dc, sc in the next space) rpt around. Join with a sl st to the beg ch.
Fig. 133- Step 8 repeated twice with 9, 10, and 11 complete.
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat sleeve on the other side. Remember that if you start your second sleeve in the same place as the first, you will need to re-measure to find the space at the elbow before Step 4 – it may not be the same as you will be working in the opposite direction.
Weave in all ends.
Ties:
The ties are formed by 3-4 bundles of yarn attached on each side then braided to make strings. These strings fasten together in pairs down the front of the garment to tie.
Beginning with the shell below the last cluster on the end of Rnd 36, place marker. Repeat on the other side. WS facing (or on the “inside” of the duster), attach yarn to the edge of the marked shell. Sl st in each stitch of the shells around, ending at the shell with the other marker – fig 134. Be sure to keep your gauge fairly loose. Cut yarn and tie off, weave in ends.
Note: For larger sizes, you may want to move the row of slip stitching for the ties out to the very last round of the garment so that it can tie across the full front of the torso. Test your tie placement with the jacket on before deciding!
Fig. 134
Shown above is the slip stitching that reinforces the shells in preparation for attaching ties, worked in a contrasting color so you can see – I actually did the ties in the same white color as the rest of the garment.
Locate the shell in the middle of the two previously marked shells and mark it. This shell should fall in the center of your back when you try the coat on – if not, adjust placement so that it does.
With the coat on, decide where you want your ties to be and mark those shells with stitch markers. Take the coat off and make sure that your placement is even, using the middle marked shell as a guide. I like to do 3-4 ties on each side, 2-3 shells apart, beginning just above the apex of the bust.
Cut 5-6 yard long strands of yarn. Fold into a loop – fig 135, and pull through the middle slip stitch of the first shell on either side – figs 136-137. Draw tail ends through the loop and tighten – figs 138-139 – separate into 3 bundles of four strands and braid to the end – figs 140-141. Tie off. Cut 6 more strands, repeat the process of attaching to your next marked shell and braid. Repeat on one side, then switch to the other side and repeat process for as many ties as you like.
Fig. 135
Fig. 136
Fig. 137
Fig. 138
Fig. 139
Fig. 140
Fig. 141
Weave in all ends and block if desired. Congratulations on your new piece of wearable art!
(Individual artisans may feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern – just please link back to me! For more on my usage information, see my About Page)
Time for more pictures!
And I FINALLY made one just for me, as an early birthday present to myself:
If you liked this pattern please consider sharing on Ravelry! I love seeing everyone’s awesome projects!
-MF
I am in loooove with this pattern <3 I do have a question of curiosity regarding yarn and gauge. the concept of gages and yarn weight is something my brain just does not seem to grasp lol. Anywho I have some yarn from hobbii that is sultan cotton kings shadow and unsure if I should use a 5mm hook or stick to the suggested 3.5- 4 mm size, I really want to get my stich on with this pattern but Im stuck at the moment
Hi Mandi! I actually have written a guide for crochet beginners that explains gauge 🙂 It will answer all the questions you are asking in this comment! 🙂
https://moralefiber.blog/2020/12/02/field-guide/
Found this today. Going to sit down and make it (also favorited your Etsy so I can buy when I have the extra funds!). But since I’m not a sleeves fan (causes my claustrophobia to kick in), I will be seeing how I like it, without the sleeves.
Oh yay! I have made a couple versions of these without sleeves, and they are definitely easier to wear – and still very pretty! Thanks for your kind words and let me know if you have any questions 🙂
So I’m not too sure on how anyone who has made this following this pattern doesn’t have like a giant bubble right In the center of their backs. I have made this following the pattern above and took it out about 9 times. And each time. It bubbled out in the center. Because you literally have to increase it starting with the second row. Not the fourth one. So. I did it my way and am just using yours as a sort of guide as to what the next round should look like. And it’s coming out a million times better and flatter.
Interesting! Individual gauge differences can be tricky like that 🙂
Do you think yarn art flowers the cotton ones would work for that? What worries me is that this yarn is considered fine and I usually work this with 3mm or 3.5mm hook
I’m not sure, I’ve never heard of that yarn! Do you have a link?
Help I’m stuck at rounds 34 to37. I get to where it says 191 then the next row says 189.
Hi Rebecca! What was your specific issue and on which round?
Hi again! For the ties, did you mean 6 yards or 6 feet to be cut for them?
never mind. i’m a dolt and read it as 5 6-yard strands, not 5-6 yard strands.
Oh, haha! Easy mistake to make! 🙂 Let me know if you have any other questions!
Hi! I want to work your model too, but with a thin thread and a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Please, can you tell me in centimeters what distance I should leave between the shoulder holes? (I have 45 cm shoulder width). I wouldn’t want it to slip off my shoulders. Thank you!
HI Marilena! I don’t know as the distance between the armholes is going to vary according to what size you are going to make – so what size is the distance between your shoulderblades? For a Small of this design, I can say for sure it’s about 15 inches in my original 🙂
Gah! Hi! I’ve done row 16 three times now and I keep getting a stitch count of 162 instead of 192… I’ve looked over the shell stitches in the previous round and cannot figure out what I’m doing wrong…not sure if you can even help or if i just need a place to comment, lol. Where am i missing 30 stitches?? sigh..
Hmm, it’s hard to tell – I took a look at the pattern and nothing jumps out at me as an immediate solution. Did you count the stitches for rounds 13 -14 as well? Maybe there’s some missing there, I frequently miss stitches on Rnd 13 when I make these!