Basic Bralette Tutorial


When dreaming up this little design, I had some specific requirements in mind: that it be a simple “base” pattern from which many variations could be made, as well as being easily customized for many sizes, and last but not least – comfortable! After a few experiments, the pattern for the Basic Bralette was born.

UpDaTe! 7/17/2019: This pattern is now also available in a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF format! Click here to read all about it ๐Ÿ™‚


I went with in-the-round triangle style cups for both the way they look and the ease of adjusting their size, plus a band through which the cross-back ties thread so that there is no pressure being put on the neck as with traditional bikini-style strap ties.




Cross back ties are totally my jam now – check out the recently released Plus Size Mehndi Halter for more proof! In addition, I added a bit of strappy flair along the inner cups, because TRENDY. Say hello to your next cute and comfy summer crochet project!


Now, there’s a teeny bit of math involved, fair warning. However, if you are confused about gauge and measurements, I’m here to help – or just wing it, and use the old “hold it up against yourself periodically while you work” method. ๐Ÿ™‚


By the way, that awesome macrame necklace I am wearing is from Selinofos Art on Etsy – you should check them out!

This design is also listed on Ravelry, so if you like it, throw a girl a favorite on the project page!


Basic Bralette Tutorial Pattern

3.50 mm hook
#4 weight cotton yarn (although you can make it with any weight yarn / hook size combo as long as you know your gauge!) 1-3 skeins depending on size made
Stitch markers
Scissors & Tapestry Needle
Measuring Tape

Band Size (measured around the rib cage just under the bust): For example, my measurement would be 32โ€
Measurement A : (Band size โ€œ / 4) โ€ = Length of each side of completed triangle cup ( My example would be [32 / 4] ย = 8โ€). Therefore, my Measurement A = 8โ€ณ
Measurement B: ย (Measurement A) – 2 = My Measurement B would be 6โ€

Note that the sample in the pictures doesn’t use the same measurements as my example math above.

If you have a curvier bust, good news! I have added a modification for this design – the Curvy Bralette Tutorial. <3

Size: The Basic Bralette can be modified in size to any size that you like, but because of the flatter nature of the cups it really works best for sizes Small โ€“ Medium (32A โ€“ 34B). The Curvier version uses a border to draw the cups in more, creating a deeper cup for larger busts and works better for C cups and some B cups depending on the shape. (Curvy directions found in main pattern and in the Curvy Tutorial linked above)

Update 4/11/20: If you are looking for a deeper cup design for larger busts, you may want to check out the new Basic Bikini Cup Tutorial!

The Basic Bralette can be modified in size to any size that you like, but because of the flatter nature of the cups it really works best for sizes Small – Medium (32A – 34B). The Curvier version uses a border to draw the cups in more, creating a deeper cup for larger busts and works better for C cups and some B cups depending on the shape. I haven’t made any cup sizes larger than D in this pattern.


You can have differing gauges for this project, as long as you know what your gauge is in order to achieve the right measurements.

My gauge with the given hook and yarn is:
9 sts & 4 rows = 2โ€ in dc

To find your gauge, crochet a square of double crochet stitches about 15-20 sts long and about 6 rows tall.


Use a measuring tape to find out how many dc sts per inch/es in your gauge swatch.


Measure vertically to find out how many rows per inch/es in your gauge swatch. My swatch has 9 sts in every 2 inches (measured by 2 inches because we don’t want to have 4.5 sts per inch because it’s not a whole number) and 4 rows for every 2 inches, so my gauge is 9 sts and 4 rows = 2″ in dc.


Triangle Cups (Make 2)

Make Magic Ring to begin.


Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), (3 dc into the ring, ch 2) 3 times. Join with a sl st to the first dc. โ€“ 9 dc



Rnd 2: Ch 2, 1 dc into the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 3 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) repeat within parentheses twice. Join with a sl st to the first dc. โ€“ 21 dc




Rnd 3: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 7 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. โ€“ 33 dc


Rnd 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 6 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 11 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. โ€“ 45 dc

Continue working in pattern until the sides of your triangle each match yourย Measurement A. Remember that this piece will stretch, so you may want your sides to be just a little under this measurement to account for that.ย 

Itโ€™s also a good idea to grab the 3 corners of your triangle and stretch them out evenly as you are working, so you get a better idea of how your length is progressing!

I made this sample piece around 8โ€, and so wrote out the following rounds I used to get that measurement in my gauge โ€“ but you can work as many or as few rounds in pattern as you need.

Add extra rounds by continuing to (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) at the ch-2 corners to increase, and dc in each dc across the sides.

For Curvy Bralettes (bigger cup sizes): Continue working as advised above, until the last few rounds of the cup. To get more depth in the cup, switch from working the established increases at the chain spaces to tapering down how many stitches are at the corners.
Small Increase: (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc)
Smaller Increase (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc)
No Increase (1 dc in ea ch st)

The smaller the increase, the sharper the cup will curve inward to cradle the bust. You can work a series of tapers or just one depending on your size needs.

Rnd 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 8 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 15 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 6 dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. โ€“ 57 dc

Rnd 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 10 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 19 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 8 dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. โ€“ 69 dc

After finishing the first triangle, cut yarn and tie off. Complete a second triangle, butย  leave yarn attached when finished.


Arrange the two triangles (which we will now refer to as cups) with RS facing, your hook positioned on top, so that the two flat sides with the joins are facing โ€œupโ€. Take a locking stitch marker and run it through each chain st on the corner where the two cups meet.





These two ch sts will be worked together as one stitch, now referred to as the middle point. Now, count the number of dc stitches between where your hook is positioned to the middle point, counting neither the joined stitch nor the middle point stitch โ€“ I have 12 in the sample.


Take a second marker, count out the same number of stitches on the opposite cup away from the middle point, then mark the next st (so you have a section between the middle point and the marked stitch equal to the section on the other side).


From the point where your hook is positioned, you will work 1/3 the amount of stitches (between your hook and the middle point) in sc, 1/3 in hdc, 1/3 dc for the first section โ€“ in the example this is 4 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc. If 1/3rd of your number is not a whole number, round down and add the extra stitches into the dc total. So, if you have 14 stitches in this section, youโ€™d do 4 sc, 4 hdc, 6 dc (4 dc + 2 extra = 6).


Next, 1 dc into the middle stitch, working your stitch through both ch stitches at once. In the next section, work the same quantities of stitches, except mirrored โ€“ in the example this is 4 dc, 4 hdc, 4 sc. Sl st in the next stitch (with the marker). Cut yarn and tie off. Remove all markers.




For the band, we will add the length of stitches equal to Measurement B on either side. The Measurement B for this sample is 4โ€, so since my gauge is 9 sts = 2โ€, I will need to add 18 stitches to either side of the cups.

Row 1: Ch length of stitches needed to equal Measurement B (18 here). Dc in the 2nd ch in the corner of the cup, RS facing. Dc in ea st across to the next ch st on opposite corner, ch number same number of stitches as beginning.




Row 2: Ch 2, turn and work 1 dc in the 4th ch from the hook (first 3 ch sts count as first dc). 1 dc in ea st across.



Row 3: Ch 3, turn (counts as first dc). 1 dc in ea st across.

Rpt Row 3 until the band is the width that youโ€™d like, and totals an even number of rows. ย (I did 6 total rows of dc). Do not tie off.

The next part works around the entire top to create eyelets in the back and add the straps.ย 

Round 4:ย  Rotate the piece so that you are ready to work into the row ends of the band. Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch1). (Dc, ch 1) in the side of each dc at the row ends, across the side of the band. In the last row, work 1 dc into the very edge of the stitch, skip the chain 1.



Rotate the piece,ย  beginning to work across the top of the band. Ch 1, hdc in the side of the dc of the eyelet row. 1 hdc in ea stitch across, stopping one st before the Row 1 dc at the bottom of the cups. Skip this stitch, the dc, and the chain space at the corner of the cup, 1 hdc in the next dc on the side of the cup (For larger cups or for tighter coverage, you may want to skip a few extra stitches to keep the cup edges tight – I skipped about 5 total stitches on mine). 1 hdc in ea dc toward the top of the cup. 1 hdc, 1 dc in the next chain space.



Skipping one st before the corner, the chain stitch on the corner, and one stitch after.
Skipping 2 sts before the corner, the chain stitch corner, and two sts after.


Strap: Ch 200 โ€“ 300 (depending on bust size โ€“ each strap will go over the shoulder, cross the back, and then criss-cross back and forth. You may want to cross more or less, like a certain level of tightness, etc โ€“ so there is no solid rule about how many to chain here. My default is to chain more than I need, then undo part of the chain later once Iโ€™ve tried the top on and know how long I need the chain to actually be). Cut yarn and tie off.


Rejoin yarn 6 chain stitches away from the top of the cup. Slip stitch in ea of the next 4 sts toward the top of the cup, stopping before the last ch st. Ch 1. 1 dc, 1 hdc in the chain space. 1 hdc in the next dc.




Chain a number of stitches until you have just enough length to get the end of the chain to the middle of the two cups – typically equal to the amount of stitches you are about to skip (depending on gauge). Skip working the rest of the cup and sc in the stitch in the middle.

Note that the chain length pictured in the image directly below is too loose! I made it longer so that it would be more visible in the photograph. It should sit tightly along the edge of the cup once secured at the middle point, as pictured in the second image below.



Repeat length of chain, skip side of next cup, 1 hdc in the dc right before the chain space. You will want your chains here to be fairly tight, to avoid floppy straps. Now is a good time to practice the “holding it up to yourself as you work” method, since each bust is different.


1 hdc in the next ch space, 1 dc in the same space. Work a second chain strap equal in length to the first. Cut yarn, tie off, and rejoin 6 sts away from the last dc. Slip stitch in the next 4 sts, ch 1, 1 dc in the same ch space, 1 hdc in the same space.


1 hdc in ea dc down the side of the cup. Sk next chain corner, dc, and first st at the top of the band (or as many as you skipped on the opposite side). 1 hdc in ea st across to the corner.


Rotate piece, ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch-1). (Dc, ch 1) in ea dc at the ends of the rows of the band. In the last st, 1 dc at the very edge, sk chain.



Rotate piece to begin working across the bottom of the band again. Ch 1, 1 hdc in the side of the last dc worked for eyelet row. 1 hdc in ea st across the bottom of the band, stopping at the ch-3 that counts as the first dc for the eyelet row. 1 sc in the next st, sl st in the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.




Weave in all ends, except for the ends of the chain straps.

Now, put on the top and cross the chain straps at the back as shown. You can criss-cross string the straps through all the eyelets, or just some of them – though the more criss-crossing you do, the harder it is to adjust the straps to the right tightness of fit by yourself. So, I normally only cross them a couple times (see the images of the red bralette below)ย  ๐Ÿ™‚ย  Whichever way you decide, you can then see how much strap length you actually need.





Pick out the tie-off you made, and rip out the extra chain stitches until your straps are the length that you need. Tie off again and cut off the extra yarn.




I used my extra yarn to make little tassels, which is both cute and helps hide the yarn tail at the end of the chain so that I don’t have to weave it in ๐Ÿ™‚ Voila! Your Basic Bralette is born.





I plan on doing some variations on this design in the future! Armed with a ton of colorful cotton yarn, this quick and easy project should be fun to mess around with some more – and I’ll try to share what I come up with of course <3



119 thoughts on “Basic Bralette Tutorial

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  1. Thanks so much for this well written tutorial! Made myself one and then for my daughter; both a perfect fit. I was a little worried about the turn holes maybe being too holey, but honestly nothing is visible ๐Ÿ˜€.

  2. Hi there!
    I’m new to clothing pieces but am pretty advanced in my crochet skills so I have NO idea how to apply these measurements personally. My gauge is 5st, 2 rows = 1in dc. so Measurement A for me was 6in and Measurement B is 4in. How does that alter how many stitches or rows I make for the project? I LOVE this pattern and am excited to make my own!

    1. Hi and thanks so much for asking! So for Measurement A, that will be the desired length of one side of your triangle cup – you’ll start the cups and keep working the established pattern until your triangle measures 6 inches on each flat side, which given your gauge will be when you reach about 30 sts per side (maybe a little more or less depending on stretch). So you’ll cut yarn and tie off your triangles at that point.

      For measurement B, that will apply to your chain length once the cups are put together. If B is 4″ for you, you’ll need a chain length on each side of 20 sts in your given gauge. I should warn you at this point that often these bralettes stretch a lot on the band part once they are tightened and laced, so hold up the length at this point and wrap around your torso to check that 4″ doesn’t stretch out too big ๐Ÿ™‚ it depends on the yarn but for my bralettes personally I have to scale Measurment B down a bit to that the stretch doesn’t make the band part too big to hold up ๐Ÿ™‚

  3. Very cute pattern, really like the cross straps, so much more comfortable. However, I’m playing hell trying to lace it up while I’m wearing it in order to tie it to fit. A second person around the house to do it would be better

    1. You are absolutely right about that, lol :/ I should put a warning label on this thing!! haha. Some of my other bralette designs have easier strategies for lacing when you only have one set of hands. Check out the loop method for criss-cross tying on this bralette mod, if you try again you might consider this easier set-up:

      If you scroll down there’s a mini-tutorial with some photos to explain it! Hope that helps ๐Ÿ™‚

  4. Very cute pattern, and even tho i am a brutal beginner, i quite get it well. Still, it seems that i do a mistake whenever i come to the 2dc 2ch 2dc part… I am following the amount of st and dc per row, but the corner and the hole won’t sit right above where it has to be, as if i am not doing enough dc inbetween. Is it a common mistake and can i just fix it with adding dc without interrupting the pattern? I started over again severel times now but nothing seems to work.
    Thank you very much for this pattern ^^

    1. Hi Nele! Thanks for the kind words, I’m really glad you are enjoying the pattern ๐Ÿ™‚ If you have counted your stitches carefully and you’re sure you’re not missing any and the corner placements still won’t line up the way you like, it’s likely a tension/gauge issue with your particular tension/yarn/hook combo – these things vary with each individual crocheter and they can cause shape issues even when the pattern is followed correctly. You may be able to take your piece and block it aggressively (if you don’t know what blocking is yet, google it! ๐Ÿ™‚ ) and that will stretch your stitches out and give you a better shape. If you prefer to add dc stitches, you can do so at the corners by adding one extra DC on each side of the chain corner “hole”. However, adding too many extra dc will cause your piece to get wavy and you definitely don’t want that so maybe do that every other row.

  5. I like it, I made it, I will wear it when Summer comes…
    Thank you for the pattern!

  6. Beautiful design! I met gauge, used a #4 cotton yarn and 5.5 hook and I feel like my stitches are much less dense (i.e. more skin showing between stitches!) than your pics. Any suggestions?

    1. Hi Karen! That’s a tricky one, even using a yarn with the same fiber content and weight isn’t guaranteed to produce the same “look” – is your cotton yarn mercerized or unmercerized?

    1. Hi Anna! This pattern is written so that you can make the cups to whatever size fits you, so there isn’t a specific size, but you can do whatever size you like. Be sure to review all the notes and the math that I present at the beginning of the pattern to fully understand how to go about using the instructions provided ๐Ÿ™‚

  7. Hi, can you clear something up for me? How do I calculate Measurement B? There is conflicting information in the pattern as well as comments. Is it A – 2 or A/2?

    1. Hi Jasper! Sorry about the conflicting math formulas! I’ve redone this calculation multiple times and that’s why it doesn’t match (damn it though, I thought I got them all matched up!). Ultimately it’s just really hard to come up with a formula that gets close to a baseline, since all bodies are so wildly different in this area.
      Measurement A is your band measurement (around the base of the bust, ribcage) divided by 4, so that two cup sides put together are basically covering the front half of the torso. Measurement B is trickier because it’s the size of the band that wraps around from the cups to the back. If you have larger cups, but a smaller ribcage, it’s more likely to be whichever formula is smaller. If you have small bust but larger ribcage, it’s likely to be whichever formular is larger.
      This Measurement B is also used in the part of the top which will stretch the most, so the “measuring against yourself” method works pretty well here if the math formulas are failing you!

  8. I made the cups already, and i cant make them bigger without them looking weird on me, but if i make the corners of them meet in the middle it leaves to much boob hanging out the side. is there a way i can attatch them with extra stitches between the cups so that it sits right on me

    1. Absolutely! If you’re having issues with the side toward the armpits, you can chain a couple stitches in between the stitches you are creating across the bottom of the cups, which will separate the cups a bit and provide more coverage on the sides. It also sounds like you may want to add the Curvy Bralette features, which help the cups curve inward a bit more for bigger busts ๐Ÿ™‚ Check out the link to that in the post for more details!

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