From here you can navigate to all my offerings for Morale Fiber – independent fiber artist and crochet pattern designer 🙂 (For more on who I am, see my About Page!) I created this post to make finding what you’re looking for easier. Let’s start with everyone’s favorite:
The Free Patterns page is a running list of all the free crochet patterns, and they are all available published here for easy viewing- No extra downloads, sign-ups, or anything 😉 I also have a page for my Crochet Tutorials!
Some of my most popular free patterns right now are the Novella Shawl (pictured top/left), the Basic Bralette (bottom/left), the Lotus Mandala Duster, and the Elf Coat (pictured below left and below right).
As a self-publishing artist I make most of my income from sales of my PDF crochet patterns through Ravelry and Etsy. If you really want to support what I do, check out my running list of crochet designs available as downloadable, printable, ad-free PDFs!
Some of my personal favorites are only available as PDF’s so it’s worth a look 😉 Like the Flower Child Pullover (pictured top/right) or the Embla Vest (below left) and Cobweb Wrap (below right).
Questions?
If you have questions about any of the patterns I offer, I respond to messages regularly and would love to help! You can contact me here easily by leaving a comment on the page linked below, or contact me directly via any of my social media channels.
Finally, if you’re here to just peruse through my ramblings on all things crafty, you can go back to the Home Page (or keep scrolling) to view all my blog posts starting with the latest!
~* Thank you for visiting*~ MF If you appreciate all my free content, consider leaving a tip in the Tip Jar ❤
You’d think that with two different magical pointy hat crochet patterns already written, I wouldn’t feel the urge to create another. At least, that’s what I thought when I added the Classic Witch Hat to my portfolio a year after I came out with the Hedge Witch Hat.
But of course, I was wrong – I saw a beautiful image of an even larger, taller pointed magical hat in irresistible autumn colors, made of solid wool and sporting pretty felted forest mushrooms, and I had the urge to create a hat with a similar silhouette on which to meld extravagant woodland features – and the Wizard Hat was conceived.
You can get the portable, ad-free PDF crochet pattern for the Wizard Hat in my Ravelry Store or Etsy Shop now! Click the links in the text to head there directly or keep reading for more info on this newest design 🙂
I knew I needed a tight stitch to keep the tall crown of this hat upright, as well as provide a smooth surface texture, so I went with the extremely neat and handy Waistcoat Stitch for this design (click the link for the free tutorial). Worked in bulky wool blend yarn and a relatively small hook, the Wizard Hat took shape in no time and I’m very happy to be releasing this pattern today! More details on this pattern – plus info on the special sale – can be found below.
Wizard Hat
Don’t be caught at the wizard’s duel without an impressive hat! This extra-tall wizard or witch hat is the perfect headwear for serious magicians, wandering wise men, or your friendly village potion-maker. A plainly stitched hat makes a warm and fantastical accessory but is also a great canvas for extras such as hat bands, patches, and other fiber art embellishments.
The tall crown of the Wizard Hat is achieved with bulky weight yarn worked in the beautifully smooth and firm Waistcoat Stitch, an easy-to-learn technique that tweaks the placement of simple single crochet stitches to form a tight and unique fabric with a surface texture that looks like knit stitches. A full tutorial for Waistcoat stitch is available in the resources for this pattern, which also includes step by step written instructions and detailed photos.
Materials
5.50 mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) Lion Brand Lion’s Pride Woolspun (#5 Bulky weight, 3.5 oz / 100 g, 127 yds, 80% Acrylic 20% wool) – color shown is Clay – 3 skeins Stitch Marker Tapestry Needle Scissors
Finished Measurements: 13” tall from tip to crown, 23″ crown circumference, 46” brim circumference, brim width 3-3.5”
Language: English. Written in US crochet terminology
I’m offering a special BOGO deal for this hat pattern for one week only to celebrate the debut – you can get this brand new exclusive PDF for FREE when you buy any other crochet pattern from my Ravelry pattern store! This deal is only available through Ravelry through 7-29-21 – and you must use the code “WIZZARD” to get the discount ❤ If you miss this deal, be sure to check out my multi-pattern discount codes which are ALWAYS available and offer a substantial bulk-buying markdown!
Morale Fiber Pattern Store Discount Codes Valid for both Etsy and Ravelry! 15% off of 2: MF15OFF 20% off of 3-4: MF20OFF 25% off of 5-6: MF25OFF 30% off of 7+: MF30OFF
These femme wizard photos also include a few other things made by me! The shawl is a version of my Cobweb Wrap crochet pattern, which I altered in length (following the mathematical formula for altering provided in the pattern instructions) and did in rows instead of rounds (don’t have notes for that part, sorry!)
I’m loving the patchwork dress I made from scrap quilting cotton and some vintage linens and laces gifted to me by a friend 🙂 I periodically do sewing projects and am getting marginally better at them, and sometimes even meld them with crochet – I hope to be doing more of that in the future.
I haven’t had time to add my desired crocheted mushroom and forest-y felted embellishments to this hat design yet, so in the meantime I adorned my official wizard garb with one of my ethereal handmade moth clips from The Forest Fae.
As always, thank you for visiting and checking out my newest offerings! If you’d like to see ALL the Morale Fiber content, check out my handy Linktree!
Today I’m sharing a tutorial for the Waistcoat Stitch, aka the Knit Stitch! Despite the name, this stitch is a crochet stitch that’s actually very simple – it’s basically just single crochet – but creates a distinctive structure that’s perfect for tightly formed fabric with a smooth surface texture. Plus, it looks a bit like knitting 🙂
Waistcoat Stitch (abbreviated to “WS” or “ws”) is worked in the round to achieve the smooth knit-look texture. You can work this stitch back and forth, but because the WS relies on the Right Side to create the effect, back-and-forth WS will not look smooth and pretty like in-the-round will. The firm texture, the neat look of the surface, and the reliance on working in rounds makes this a perfect stitch for hats!
And I have yet another pointy hat being developed right this very minute, ready to be published soon, which also utilizes this awesome technique – so I’m doing a tutorial here today in preparation which includes a video demo – keep scrolling for the free instructions! ❤
Waistcoat Stitch Tutorial
So how do we work this amazing little stitch? As I mentioned, the WS is basically a single crochet, so you don’t have to learn any fancy yarnwork to create it. The secret to this stitch is all in where you insert your hook to draw up the first loop for your crochet stitch.
In the first round, you’ll be working traditional single crochet stitches into your ring or your round of chains (remember, we don’t work this back and forth but in rounds instead).
Once you have established a round in single crochet, the next round will work single crochet stitches but through the vertical bars of the stitch below, not through the top two loops as normal.
Highlighted here are the top two loops (first image above) where you would normally insert your hook to draw up the first loop for your stitch. In the second image above, I have highlighted the vertical bars of the crochet stitch below, which form a bit of a “V”. You’ll be inserting your hook in between these two bars from the front and emerging through the body of the stitch to the back of the work.
Pictured Above: Inserting the hook through the middle of the highlighted vertical bars of the stitch below
At the back of the work, the vertical bars of a single crochet stitch form an upside-down “V” shape. Your hook will emerge between these vertical bars, at the point indicated by the white dot.
Pictured Above: The hook emerging at the back of the work, between the vertical bars. The stitch beside it is highlighted to show the configuration of the bars when viewed from the back, with the white dot indicating where the hook should emerge.
From there, draw up a loop. YO and draw through two loops as normal to complete one Waistcoat Stitch. Your stitch will now emerge from the center of the stitch below, coming out from the vertical V shape.
Insert your hook again through the V of the next stitch, then draw up a loop and complete the single crochet as normal. Voila! You are working waistcoat stitch!
After a few rounds of this stitch, the texture starts to become very smooth and even, with the v-shapes mimicking the loops of knitting but with a firmer, thicker fabric perfect for structured projects.
Increasing and decreasing in Waistcoat Stitch are handled the exact same way as with single crochet, but again – inserting that hook in between the vertical bars instead of the top loops. So to increase, simply work two Waistcoat stitches in the next vertical-bar “V”, so that you have an extra stitch in the same place. To decrease, work a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) but draw up your first two loops from between the vertical-bar “V”s 🙂
I’ve created this video tutorial to help you navigate the basics of this stitch – I didn’t get quite the video quality I wanted for this, but I’m working on upgrading some of my technologies for doing better videos (and dealing with some malfunctions) so stay tuned and thanks for your patience 🙂
Waistcoat Stitch Video Tutorial
As I mentioned (a lot) just love this stitch because it’s particular qualities are so good for hats! Firm fabric and a neatly smooth textured surface – it’s just perfect ❤ You can also substitute this stitch for regular single crochet in many simple hat patterns – I might try it on my Mori Girl Beret pattern next!
Thanks for visiting and stay tuned for my newest hat pattern, to be released in just a few days! -MF
I have some good news and some bad news! Let’s start with the good news:
The Mermaid Mitts & Sandals crochet pattern has been given a major update, which includes fixing some errors in the written pattern but also adding a bunch of bright, fresh new tutorial photography 🙂 As a pattern designer, I’m constantly backtracking to check that my paid patterns are up to my current standard – I started publishing my designs in 2015 and I’m always learning as I go, so sometimes the older patterns just look flimsy compared to what I can do now. The Mermaid Mitts & Sandals pattern is the latest PDF crochet pattern to get a nice makeover.
Keep reading for all the details on this design or go directly to my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Store to purchase this premium crochet pattern (But you might want to keep reading because I’m offering a SALE on Ravelry, discussed below)!
So that’s the good news, here’s the bad news: This design was supposed to debut today as both a paid PDF pattern file update AND a FREE pattern re-release including a new video tutorial. Another thing I like to do with my older paid patterns as I update them is consider whether they would be good choices for offering a free version here on my blog – just like I did with the Rhiannon Cowl, the Mandala Tam, the Winter Poncho, and the Mandala Top. Free versions of patterns help both me and you, since I get more site traffic which leads to more sales, and people who can’t afford a ton of paid patterns get access to quality content they can enjoy and recommend to others 🙂
But this is the bad news part, because I can’t offer the pattern on the blog or as a video today. For about two weeks now, my laptop computer has been inexplicably slow. It took me days to format the pattern update, and my computer has been so laggy and malfunctioning that it’s been very difficult to get any work done at all. I had scheduled the re-release of the Mermaid Mitts in updated PDF form, free blog pattern form, and free YouTube tutorial video form… but I’m nowhere near completing those last two items because my computer is SO FREAKING SLOW right now. 😦
SOOOOO here’s my temporary solution – A SALE! Buy any other crochet pattern from my Ravelry Store, get the Mermaid Mitts & Sandals PDF pattern file for free! You don’t need a coupon code, just drop the Mermaid pattern in your cart with any other pattern and go to checkout where the discount will be taken 🙂 I’ll still be uploading this pattern for free and with a video tutorial in the future, once I fix whatever ailment is afflicting my technology. In the meantime, PDF pattern purchases are my main source of income and it would really help me out with the new technology costs if you took advantage of this deal – or, if you don’t need any more PDF patterns but still want to support my business, consider leaving a Tip in the Tip Jar! You can enter any amount of $1 increments to leave a tip in my secure, WordPress-backed payment system there. Any amount will be extra appreciated right now as technology is expensive but I can’t provide patterns without it ❤
Anyway, here’s all the details about the Mermaid Mitts & Sandals pattern, which is one I’m very proud of and I think you’ll love! ❤
Mermaid Mitts & Sandals
This fanciful beaded crochet accessory set is suitable for any mermaids, undines, or sirens that might journey onto land in search of a mortal to ensnare. This is a two-in-one pattern that makes one pair of scaly armwarmers (wrist OR elbow length) and one pair of beaded barefoot sandals!
I love the unique design of the mitts, which feature the crocodile stitches only on the back of the hand, not surrounding the palm, for more practical wear. The barefoot sandals are a mystical twist on traditional crochet foot accessories! Includes tutorial photography to accompany the written instructions and separate tutorials for crocodile stitches and the beading technique used in this pattern.
Suitable not only for mermaids, undines, and naiads, but also dryads, nymphs, sylphs, and all other manner of fae and little folk!
Materials: 3.50 hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) Lion Brand Coboo (#3 weight, 100 g / 232 yd, 50% cotton 50% Bamboo rayon) – about ½ skein (this is the recommended yarn but this pattern looks GREAT with lots of different yarns, including many #4 weight and #3 weight substitutes such as Lion Brand Mandala or Red Heart Unforgettable) 32 6/0 seed beads (optional) beading needle (optional) tapestry needle Gauge: 1 croc stitch scale = 1.5” measured across top
Pattern written in US crochet terminology. Language: ENGLISH
I drew inspiration from a lot of places for this design but one that always stuck with me was a faerie-like croc stitch barefoot sandal that had bells at the tip of each croc scale – I adored them and I still plan on doing a bell version of the sandals soon ❤
As always, and despite the sometimes struggle-y nature of being a one-woman art business, I’m so full of gratitude. The online crochet community has been my home for over a decade now and it just gets better and better. It takes all of us to make it that way, sharing our creativity, ideas, inspiration, and encouragement to keep the passion of our tradition alive ❤ Thank you!
My little Kismet Square motif has had an eventful life so far! I designed this circle-to-square motif a couple years ago, planning on using it for an ambitious new design which STILL hasn’t seen the light of day. Okay so, I’m still working on that one and it will eventually become something really great, but it is like… taking forever. Which I’ve learned simply happens sometimes, so you just have to roll with it.
In the meantime, I’ve found the main Kismet motif really useful for inspiring other patterns – including my newest FREE halter top design which premiers right here, right now!
The Kismet Halter Top is here on this blog post for anyone who wants to enjoy it, but is also available in my Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop as a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF 🙂 Read all the details of this latest design below or keep scrolling for the FREE crochet pattern instructions!
Oh, and the other project that features the Kismet motif is the Kismet Poncho, shown below, also free or purchasable as a premium pattern – OH and a FULL video tutorial version exists, too! ❤ Yay!
Kismet Halter Top
The Kismet Halter top draws aspects from many of my other favorite halter top designs – a sturdy, wide construction around the ribcage for good coverage and good support, criss-cross lacing ties that don’t pressure the neck, and an eye-catching central mandala that looks perfect layered under tanks and low-cut tees. The optional Mehndi Border across the bottom can add extra coverage and turn up the festival fanciness factor!
The instructions for this top are in good written detail for the stitches and construction, while also being flexible enough to customize size to get the perfect fit. Cup sizes are written for A cup through DD cup and size suggestions for customizing the band portion go from X-Small – to 2X-Large 🙂 75+ tutorial photos are included with detailed references and clear steps connected to the written instructions.
The top is made with #4 weight 100% cotton for a quick project that will keep you cool and comfortable all summer – taken to the beach, to festivals, out dancing, or anywhere you are following your kismet ❤
The following free pattern appears here exactly as in the PDF version, if you like it consider supporting my art by buying the PDF version or sampling my other patterns in the Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop! If you don’t need or want the PDF file, consider leaving a tip in my Tip Jar? Thank you for your support and please let me know what you think 🙂
Materials:
#4 weight cotton yarn (I used I Love This Cotton! – 3.5 oz/ 100 g, 180 yds, 100% cotton) 1 skein main color for Small-Med/A-C, 2 skeins main color for Lg-XL/D-DD , ~100 yds each for 2 accent colors 3.50 mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) Stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle.
Gauge: 4 sts & 3 rows = 1” in hdc 4 sts & 5 rows = 1” in sc 4 sts & 2.5 rows = 1” in dc
Sizes: A – DD Cup sizes. Sizing for band (circumference around the ribcage) is written flexibly for customizable sizes. Finished Measurements For Individual Cups (approximate, taken with cup flattened): Cup Size A: 5.5” length from top to bottom (shown below), 4” width across bottom Size B: 6.5” length, 5” width Size C: 7” length, 6.5” width Size D: 7” length, 7.5” width Size DD: 7.5” length, 8.5” width
Notes: Beginning chain stitches do not count as the first st of the row. Beginning chain sts are given as 1 chain stitch for sc, 1 chain st for hdc, 2 ch sts for dc – these are one less than the typical amount because they work better for my gauge for this project, however, if those are too tight please feel free to add an extra chain to the beginning chain as needed.
Instructions
Center Motif:
With first accent color, make magic ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first dc – fig 1), 12 dc into the ring – fig 2. Pull loose yarn end to tighten the ring, slip stitch in the first dc to join – fig 3. – 12 dc
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch 2). (1 dc in the next st, ch 2) 11 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-5 – fig 4. – 12 dc, 12 ch-2 spaces
Fig. 4
Rnd 3: In the next ch space work 1 hdc, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc, 1 hdc – fig 5. Sl st in the next dc – fig 6. (In the next ch sp work 1 hdc, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc, 1 hdc. Sl st in the next dc) 11 times. Cut yarn and tie off if changing colors. – fig 7. – 12 shells
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 7 – your motif may ruffle some at the end of this round. To help it lie flat, pull out the ends of the shells and press the motif. Don’t worry if it’s still a little curly, it will straighten out in the following rounds.
Rnd 4: Join 2nd accent color at the top of any ch space of the previous round (if not changing colors, simply slip stitch to the next ch sp). 1 sc in the same sp – fig 8. Ch 3, sc in the same space, ch 3. (1 sc in the next ch-1 space, ch 3, 1 sc in the same space, ch 3) 10 times – fig 9. 1 sc in the next ch-1 space, ch 3, 1 sc in the same space. Ch 1, work 1 hdc in the first sc of the round. This closes the last chain space by using a half-double crochet stitch instead of chain stitches so that your hook is positioned in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin the next round – figs 10-11. – 24 ch-3 spaces, 24 sc.
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Fig. 11 – the final chain space is closed by working a hdc which leaves your hook positioned in a ch-3 sized space to begin the next round.
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (does not count as first dc) – fig 12. 2 dc in the side of the last hdc worked at the close of Rnd 4, working underneath the side of the stitch as if it were a chain space – fig 13. Ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1 – fig 14. (2 dc in the next ch-3 space, ch 2. 2 dc in the same space, ch 1. 1 sc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1) 11 times – fig 15. 2 dc in the last ch-3 space, working next to the initial 2 dc. Ch 2, join with a sl st in the first dc of the round – fig 16. – 12 shells
Cut yarn and tie off – center motif should measure about 5.5” in diameter – fig 17. If motif is still curly, stretch out the points of the shells again and press flat. Some curl or ruffle will likely remain, this will also get stretched out later in the pattern. In some cases, 100% cotton yarn will be very thick and you may have extreme ruffling problems – in this case, you can skip the ch-1 in between the dc shells and the single crochets in Rnd 5 to reduce bulk.
Proceed to Cups instructions.
Fig. 12
Fig. 13
Fig. 14
Fig. 15
Fig. 16
Fig. 17 – Motif should measure about 5.5” in diameter.
Once finished, make 2 bikini cups according to your cup size:
Cups: Size A
Finished measurements: 5.5” from top to bottom (show above), 4.5” width across flat side.
Ch 16 (counts as first 15 chain stitches + 1 to turn, final ch st does not count as first st)
Foundation Row: Turn, work 1 sc in each of the next 15 ch sts. – 15 sc
Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc, see Notes), turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 14 sts. In the side of the sc on the end, work (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc). Rotate to work down the other side of the foundation row, inserting hook into the bottom loop of the chain stitches. 1 sc in ea of the next 15 sts. – 32 sc, 16 on ea side of the ch-1 space (ch-1 space not included in the end-of-row stitch counts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 15 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 sc in ea of the next 16 sc. – 34 sc, 17 on ea side of ch-1 space.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 16 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 17 sc. – 36 sc, 18 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 17 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 18 sc. – 38 sc, 19 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 18 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 19 sc. – 40 sc, 20 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 19 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 20 sc. – 42 sc, 21 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 20 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 21 sc. – 44 sc, 22 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 21 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 22 sc. – 46 sc, 23 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete. Proceed to “Construction”
Cups: Size B
Finished measurements: 6.5” from top to bottom (shown above), 5” width across flat side (shown below)
Ch 16 (counts as first 15 ch stitches + 1 to turn, final ch does not count as first st).
Foundation Row: Turn, 1 sc in ea of the next 15 ch sts. – 15 sc
Row 1: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the side of the ch 1 on the end. Rotate to work down the other side of the row, inserting hook into the bottom loop of the foundation chain stitches. 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts. – 34 hdc, 17 hdc on ea side of the ch-1 space (Ch-1 space not included in the end-of-row stitch counts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 17 sts. – 38 hdc, 19 hdc on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 18 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 19 sts. – 42 hdc, 21 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 20 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 21 sts. – 46 hdc, 23 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 22 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 23 sts. – 50 hdc, 25 on ea side of the next ch-1 sp.
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 24 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 25 sts. – 54 hdc, 27 on ea side of the next ch-1 sp.
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete. Proceed to “Construction”
Cups: Size C
Finished measurements: 7” from top to bottom (above), 6.5” width across flat side (below)
Ch 16 (counts as first 15 chain stitches + 1 to turn, final 2 ch sts do not count as first st)
Foundation Row: Turn, work 1 hdc in each of the next 15 ch sts. – 15 hdc
Row 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc, see Notes), turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 14 sts. In the side of the hdc on the end, work (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc). Rotate to work down the other side of the foundation row, inserting hook into the bottom loop of the chain stitches. 1 dc in ea of the next 15 sts. – 34 dc, 17 on ea side of the ch-1 space (ch-1 space not included in the end-of-row stitch counts)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 16 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 17 sts. – 38 dc, 19 on ea side of the ch-1 space.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. – 42 dc, 21 on ea side of the ch-1 sp
Row 4: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. – 46 dc, 23 on ea side of the ch-1 sp
Row 5: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. – 50 dc, 25 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 6: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. – 54 dc, 27 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete. Proceed to “Construction”
Cups: Sizes D-DD
D-DD cups follow the same instructions given below, with DD sizes adding extra rows at the end.
Finished measurements, D Cup: 7” from top to bottom (above), 7.5” width across flat side
Finished Measurements, DD cup: 7.5” from top to bottom, 8.5” width across flat side
Ch 19 (counts as first 18 chain stitches + 1 to turn, final ch sts do not count as first st)
Foundation Row: Turn, work 1 sc in each of the next 18 ch sts. – 18 sc
Row 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc, see Notes), turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 17 sts. In the side of the ch st on the end, work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc). Rotate to work down the other side of the foundation row, inserting hook into the bottom loop of the chain stitches. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts. – 38 dc, 19 on ea side of the ch-1 space (ch-1 space not included in the end-of-row stitch counts)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. – 40 dc, 20 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts. – 42 dc, 21 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 4: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. – 44 dc, 22 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 5: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts. – 46 dc, 23 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 6: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. – 48 dc, 24 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 7: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. (1 dc, ch 1 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. – 50 dc, 25 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 8: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. – 52 dc, 26 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Cut yarn and tie off for D cup sizes. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete.
For DD sizes, continue for following rows:
Row 9: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts. – 54 dc, 27 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Row 10: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 27 sts. – 56 dc, 28 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete. Proceed to “Construction”
Construction:
Completed pieces so far.
Connecting the Motif & Cups:
With the two cups complete, position the 2nd cup (with the yarn still attached), so that the attached yarn is between the motif and the cup on the side of your crocheting hand – as shown in fig. 18, below-
Fig. 18 -This configuration allows you to work back and forth between the cups and the motif to connect them.
Chain 3. Sc in any ch-2 space of the shells of the motif – fig 19. Ch 2. Skip 5 stitches on the last row of the cup, sc in the next st – fig 20.
Fig. 19
Fig. 20
*Ch 2. 1 sc in the next ch-2 space on the motif. Ch 2, skip 5 sts on the edge of the cup, 1 sc in the next st on the cup – fig 21. Repeat from * once more.
There should now be 3 shell spaces attached along the cup side, with 5 stitches between each sc attachment on the cup, and gap of remaining stitches left at the end of the cup side before the central ch-1 space of the cup peak.
How many sts you have left on the cup before the ch-1 space depends on size – 4 for A, 8 for B, 8 for C, 7 for D, 9 for DD.
Fig. 21
The connection now continues onto the second cup:
Ch 2, 1 sc in the next ch-2 space on the motif – fig 22. Count an equal amount of stitches away from the ch-1 central space on the opposite cup as you had left on the first cup (4 for A, 8 for B, 8 for C, 7 for D, 9 for DD) , mark the next stitch. Ch 2 and work 1 sc into the marked stitch. Ch 2, 1 sc in the next shell.
Fig. 22
*Ch 2, skip 5 stitches on the cup, 1 sc in the next st. Ch 2, 1 sc in the next shell of the motif.
Repeat from * once more.
Ch 2, skip 5 stitches on the cup, sc in the next st (the final stitch on the row of the cup side) – fig 23.
Fig. 23
Now the entire piece will be rotated to add chains across the rest of the central motif – fig 24.
(Ch 6 – fig 24, 1 sc in the next shell) 5 times. Ch 6, 1 sc in the side of the outermost stitch of the side of the cup – figs 25-26.
Fig. 24
Fig. 25
Fig. 26
Edges
To continue, a sc edging will be worked into the side of the cup.
In single crochet down the side of the rows on this edge of the cup, work 1 sc per row side for Cup Size A (total 17), 2 sc per row side for cup sizes B-C (total 26 for B, 26 for C), and 2-3 sc per row side for sizes D-DD (total 34 sc for D at 2 per side, 42 for DD at 2 per side) – fig 27.
Depending on gauge, you may want to work 3 sc per row side for cups worked in dc – you can experiment and decide which looks best as the rest of the instructions will be flexible for this area of the design.
Fig. 27
At the edge of the cup, ch 1 and rotate the piece to work along what is now the “bottom” portion of the halter top – fig 28. 1 sc in each stitch until reaching the ch-1 space at the peak of the cup. 1 sc in the ch-1 space. 1 sc in the next st – fig 29.
Fig. 28
Fig. 29
Ch 1 for A-C sizes. Ch 2 for D-DD sizes. Skip to next cup, 1 sc in the st right before the ch-1 space. 1 sc in the next ch-1 space. Continue along the bottom edge of the next cup by working 1 sc in each st until the edge – fig 30.
Fig. 30
Ch 1, rotate to begin working along the edge of the cup – fig 31. 1-3 sc in the side of each row according to your size the same way as you worked with the other cup edge, until reaching the top corner – fig 32. Slip stitch in the top corner stitch to join, cut yarn and tie off.
Fig. 31
Fig. 32
Fig. 33
Reattach main yarn at the bottom corner of the halter top so that you are ready to work across the length of the bottom again.
Bottom:
Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), 1 sc in each st until 3 stitches from the chain that runs across the middle of the two cups – fig 34.
Fig. 34
Ch 4 – 5 (4 for smaller sizes, 5 for larger), skip the next 3 stitches, the chains, and the 3 sts on the opposite side – fig 35. 1 sc in the next st and in ea remaining stitch across the bottom length.
Fig. 35
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st and in each stitch across the bottom of the first half, working 4-5 sc in the chain space, then working 1 sc in each st across the bottom of the second half – fig 36.
Fig. 36
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across – fig 37.
Fig. 37
Now there should be 3 rows total of single crochet after the 2nd chain space between the cups (not counting the row containing the chain space). To finish the bottom edge, you can add as much hdc as you like by working the following:
Row 5: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea stitch across – fig 38.
Work an amount of rows repeating Row 5 so that the top is the length you like. I suggest the following amounts just to get started, then add more or less if you like: XS: 3 rows, Small: 4 rows, Med-Large: 5 rows, XL-2XL: 6 rows. Do not tie off. Proceed to Side Panel instructions.
Fig. 38
Side Panels
Rotate the piece so that you are preparing to work up the side of the halter toward the motif – fig 39.
Row 1: Ch 1, 1 hdc in the side of ea row just worked along the bottom of the halter for all rows worked. For example, a total of bottom rows equaling 7 (4 sc rows, 3 hdc rows) would be 7 sc.
Fig. 39
Row 1 Ct’d: Working in the sc stitches up the side of the cup, 1 hdc in ea st until this portion covers 5 total rows of the cup – fig. 40. This will be approximately 5 more stitches for A cups, 10 more stitches for B and C cups, and 10-15 more stitches for D and DD cups (depending on how many sc’s per row end you worked).
This will extend the side panel to cover about 1/3rd of the cup length. Smaller sizes may go up to almost ½ the cup length if more coverage is needed.
The total width of these side panels can also be modified here to suit taste or desired fit – just add or remove stitches to alter the width of the side panel.
Fig. 40
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea st across.
Repeat for as many rows as you like to get enough length to reach around your ribcage.
Use the following as a guide & customize number of rows to suit your personal fit: X-Small: 10 rows, Small: 12 rows, Med: 15, Lg: 18, XL: 21, 2XL: 23
These amounts are just a starting point, as you can do as many or as few rows as you need here.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Attach yarn to the opposite corner and work the same amount of stitches up the side to start the second side panel. Repeat the same amount of rows as you did before to complete second side panel. Proceed to Trim & Straps Instructions.
Trim & Straps
Reattach yarn at the top corner of the panel on the side of your hook hand, Right Side of the piece facing (as shown below). Depending on how many rows on your side panel, you may finish in this spot, in which case you wouldn’t have to cut & rejoin the yarn.
Rejoined yarn at the top corner of the side panel on my hook hand side (the right side). Right Side facing.
Step 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st of the sides of the side panel rows. As before, you can add more or less to loosen or tighten the stitching depending on tension and preference – fig 41
Step 2: Now working in the side of the cup, 1 Sc in ea stitch up the side of the cup – fig 42 – until reaching the ch-6 space that connects the motif to the top.
Fig. 41
Fig. 42
Step 3: (6 sc in the next ch-6 space, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times – fig 43.
Fig. 43
Step 4 (First strap) Here we add the straps that cross in the back and then weave back and forth through the eyelets. We’ll need plenty of length to weave back and forth – I use 200 for a smalls-mediums. 200-250 is usually enough, but it also depends on how long your side panels are. If you’re not sure, err on the side of extra length as you can always wrap the ties more to get the out of the way. If they are too short, you either have to frog and try again or attach yarn at the end and lengthen by chaining and slip stitching back down the extra length. 😉
Ch 200-250 – fig 44.
Slip stitch in each ch stitch all the way back down the chain. Sc in the same stitch as last sc fig 45.
Fig. 44
Fig. 45
Step 5: (6 sc in the next ch-6 space, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times.
Step 6 (Second strap) Ch 200-250 – fig 46. Slip stitch back down, 1 sc in the same stitch as last sc.
Fig. 46
Step 7: (6 sc in the next ch-6 space, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times – fig 47.
Fig. 47
Step 8: 1 sc in ea st down the side of the next cup.
Step 9: 1 sc in ea st on the side of the panel rows – matching the number you got for the other side – fig 48.
Fig. 48
Step 10: Ch 3, rotate to work down the edge of the panel. Sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in each of the next 4-5 sts*.
(Ch 1, sk next st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 4-5 sts) rpt across the end of the side panel – fig 49. This creates the eyelets necessary to weave the straps back and forth.
*Depending on the exact number of stitches in your side panel, your eyelet number might be different. Just create as many repeats so that the skipped stitches are even across the panel. You can vary the number of stitches between eyelets to help balance the spacing.
Fig. 49
Step 11: At the end of the row, rotate to work across the bottom of the halter top. Ch 3, 1 sc in each row end stitch across the bottom of the side panel, in each stitch across the bottom of the halter, and in each row end across the other side panel. – fig 50.
Fig. 50
Step 12: Ch 3, 1 hdc in the same st. Working across the top row of the side panel, create the (4-5 hdc, ch 1, sk next st) repeats from the other side to create a matching eyelet row. At the final stitch, ch 3 and slip stitch in the first stitch of the strap edging round – fig 51.
Cute yarn and tie off.
Fig. 51
Mehndi Border (Optional)
The Mehndi Border creates a cute textural decoration of petals and pompoms across the bottom of the halter. This is a great option if you are wearing your halter alone as a crop top and want a little more coverage – it does make it a bit bulky for layering though.
This feature originally appeared in another halter design of mine, the Mehndi Halter Top!
Finished Mehndi Border (shown above)
Row 1: With RS facing, join coordinating color yarn into the bottom edge – fig 52 – and ch 3. The first ch 3 counts as the first dc. (Ch 1, sk the next st, dc in the next st) across to the other edge of the bottom – figs 53-54.
Fig. 52
Fig. 53
Fig. 54
Row 2: Ch 6, turn – fig 55, sk next 4 sts, sl st in the next st – fig 56. (Ch 6, sk next 4 sts, sl st in the next st) across – figs 57-58.
Fig. 55
Fig. 56
Fig. 57
Fig. 58
Row 3: Turn without chaining. 2 hdc in the last ch-6 loop of the previous row – figs 59-60. Work 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc in the same loop. 1 hdc in the same space – fig 61. YO, draw up a loop in the same ch-6 space. YO, draw up a loop in the next ch-6 space – fig 62. YO and draw through all 5 lps on the hook – 1 hdc2tog over 2 ch-6 spaces – fig 63. (1 hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc2tog over the next 2 spaces) in ea ch-6 space across, forming the “petals” of the border design. 1 hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc in the last ch-6 space – fig 64. Sl st in the side of the last dc of the first row.
Fig. 59
Fig. 60
Fig. 61
Fig. 62
Fig. 63
Fig. 64
Cut yarn and tie off if changing to 2nd accent color. If not, then turn without chaining to begin Row 4.
The petals will likely be slanted or curly from working – take the middle tr stitch and stretch them until evenly placed on the spaces and straightened – fig 65.
Fig. 65
Row 4: Turn, join new color at the middle tr st of the first petal. If using same color, sl st to that stitch. Ch 7 ( counts as ch-5 + first 2 ch of pompom st) – fig 66. *Dc3tog in the 2nd ch from the hook. Ch 2, Dc3tog in the top of the previous cluster. Slip stitch in the base of the FIRST cluster, bringing the two dc clusters together to form two halves of a ball* – from * to * is your pompom stitch (see tutorial, Pg. 22). Ch 5, sl st in the 2nd treble of the next petal – fig 67. (Ch 7, pom pom stitch, ch 5, sl st in the 2nd tr of the next petal) repeat across – fig 68.
Fig. 66
Fig. 67
Fig. 68
Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.
To Wear
Weave in all remaining ends. The two long ties at the top of the motif cross and/or tie at the neck, then cross over again to lace down the eyelets of the side panels.
I hope you have as much fun making & wearing this top as I did designing it! I love the flattering way the border flares out from the natural waist, which makes it so versatile as a crop top for higher waisted skirts and pants – while you can also leave off the border entirely for a perfect layering bralette 🙂
The Pom Pom Stitch is one of the first crochet textural details I learned, and I was so excited to discover it – easy, cute, and almost perfectly round, the pom pom bobble is made of two double crochet clusters stacked together and can be inserted into projects for beautiful accents and trims.
Crochet really is a magic art in my opinion – a never-ending world of things to learn and try and endless combinations of techniques makes this hobby perfect for the obsessively curious and tactile artist in me.
Anyway, it’s time I published the Pom Pom Stitch Tutorial here on the blog for everyone to try, and I’ve got a brand new demo video to go along with it – you can watch at the bottom of the post after the written and photo tutorial which starts now!
Pom Pom Stitch
The pompom stitch uses two clusters of double crochet stitches stacked on top of each other to form a round ball which makes a fun border decoration. For this example I’m placing them on chain spaces, but you can place them anywhere as long as you work the chain 2 to start as indicated in Step 1. Here’s how to work it:
Step 1: Work the amount of stitches desired until reaching the point to place the pompom. Ch 2 to count as the beginning of the pompom stitch. *Yarn over and insert hook in the 2nd ch from the hook. Draw up a loop, YO, pull through 2 lps on the hook. Repeat twice more into the same stitch, leaving the last lp of each dc on the hook for each stitch. You should have 4 lps on the hook.
YO once more and pull through all 4 lps on the hook. One dc3tog made.
Step 2: Ch 2, to gain height for the second cluster.
Step 3: Working into the TOP of the last cluster, make another dc3tog.
Step 4: Insert hook into the same stitch that you worked your FIRST cluster and make a slip stitch, bringing the two clusters together to form two halves of a ball – fig 74.
Step 5: Finish the repeat by chaining enough to get to the next pom pom (or as indicated in pattern). Here it’s shown worked into the Mehndi Border!
Tip: Keeping your clusters tight and wet blocking the border when you are finished helps the pompoms look nice and round!
Pom Pom Stitch Video Demo
The demo for the video goes over the Pom Pom stitch as it occurs on the Mehndi Border, but remember you can place them anywhere you like by starting with just the 2 chain stitches and then working the pompom on those 🙂
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and learned something new, and as always if you have any questions or feedback please leave them in the comments! ❤ Thanks for visiting 🙂
Given how many crochet patterns I have that start with the notoriously useful Magic Ring technique, you’d think I’d have written a full, freestanding tutorial for it by now! Mostly because so many tutorials already exist for the Magic Ring, I hadn’t bothered to do my own – but now I am remedying that thanks to some encouraging words from a friend to whom I recently taught my method 🙂
If you’ve never heard of it before, the Magic Ring (abbreviated to MR) is simply an adjustable string loop onto which the first round of a circular crochet project is worked. The loop is a substitute for the other method of starting circular crochet, which is to chain a certain number and then join the length chain stitches into a circle shape by slip stitching in the first chain.
The advantages of the Magic Ring are many – that’s why it’s called magic! Instead of guessing how many chain stitches will give you the adequate room to work your first round, the MR closes AFTER you make your stitches, so you can close the round as tightly as you wish. Sometimes starting chain rings are too bulky even when made to the right length, resulting in a rather nippular bump No so with the Magic Ring! Although it still tends to look like a cat’s booty, but whaddyagonnado. 😉
Anyway, here’s a written and photo tutorial for how to work the Magic Ring, followed by a video demonstration at the bottom of the blog post ❤ Hope it’s helpful to you!
Magic Ring
Step 1: Take the end of the yarn strand and lay it over the fingers, the end placed on the pinkie side.
Bring the strand under the fingers and back up over the index finger, using your bottom fingers to secure the loose end and your thumb to hold the yarn strand in place.
Slip your hook under the bottom-most strand and wrap the top strand around the hook as for a yarn over.
Draw up your loop through the strand under which your hook was inserted. Now you have one loop drawn up through the beginning of the ring.
Yarn over again…
… And draw through the loop on the hook.
Tighten the stitch you just made. Now you have a yarn ring and a loose tail of yarn coming off of this initial stitch. For taller stitches like dc and tr, this first stitch counts as the first chain in the starting chain. For single crochet, I usually don’t count this as the first stitch as it is very tight to try to work into.
You can now start to work stitches into the ring you have just secured by tightening the first chain. There will be a ring and a loose tail end, you can crochet over both but don’t lose track of the loose end because you’ll need it in a minute. Here’s a ring with some single crochet worked into it:
Once your first round is worked into the ring, take the yarn tail end and pull it tightly, sliding the stitches on the yarn ring together until the central hole is closed.
Either close your round with a slip stitch, if working non-continuous circles, or mark your first stitch of the next round if you are working continuously 🙂
That’s it! Now you can easily make circular crochet projects that have a neat, clean center with no pokey flappy bits. You can even leave the central space a little open if you have enough stitches on the ring to support it. Below is an example from my Pixie Pocket Belt freeform tutorial series.
Useful, eh? Here’s a quick video demo where I start and work the Magic Ring! We went straight from phone camera to video for this one, as I’m trying to be quicker about producing my video content 😛
Magic Ring Video Demo
That’s it for today – thanks for visiting 🙂 And be sure to check out my huge collection of TOTALLY FREE crochet patterns right here on the blog ❤
First things first! To see all available sizes of the FREE Elf Coat pattern, as well as all the available add-ons to this design, please visit the Elf Coat FAQ page for links ❤
During the process of updating the original Elf Coat Pattern, I decided it was finally time to make an Elf Coat of my very own! I’ve had this color of King Cole DK Riot “Funky” saved back specifically for this purpose for years – the colors feature warm purples, lavender, sage greens, olive and hints of fuschia – all my favorite colors 🙂
I worked up a size Small in this colorway, partly to test out the new shoulder and hood shaping that was part of the big update – and also to keep my head in the game while my awesome pattern testers worked on the Elf Coat Plus Sizes pattern expansion which was just released. This whole design has had a lively life so far, and I can’t wait to see where you all take it in the future 😉
While working, I also made some modifications on the skirt wedges that resulted in a larger skirt seamed to a smaller bodice – for more info on how to pull that off, I made a YouTube tutorial how-to! 🙂
While making my personal version of the Elf Coat, I couldn’t help but try out my vision for a pointed pocket, inspired by the type of pixie pocket shape featured on Katwise’s (www.katwise.com) coats, which are responsible for helping inspire this design. I didn’t want to mess around with doing the inset pockets, so I decided that I could do the pointed shape and apply it directly to the outside of the coat after it was finished for an “afterthought” pocket. Keep scrolling for the FREE pattern for these cute pointed pockets for the Elf Coat 🙂
I also added a sweet little faux fur trim to the hood – 6 rows of fuzzy yarn in LDC with a 3.50 mm hook and I will NEVER do something so crazy again, haha! 😛 It was slow going, but I did eventually accomplish that faux fur and I’ll say now that it was worth it.
I also really love how the buttons came out – I had an assortment of detailed metal vintage buttons and I love the way they add interest and character ❤
I give each of these coats a name and a personality and I dubbed my own personal Elf Coat “Twig Nest” – for reasons 😀 I’m a hodge-podge, helter-skelter chaos artist and if I were a bird, my nest would be a dopey looking pile of twigs on the ground – but there’d be love in there 🙂
Pointed Pockets Pattern
Following all yarn, hook, and gauge instructions from the original pattern.
With 6.50 Tunisian hook and main yarn:
Row 1: Ch 3. TSS in the 2nd chain from the hook and in the next ch st. RP – 3 sts
Rows 2-3: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 3 sts
Row 4: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Rows 5-6: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts
Row 7: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the last st. RP. – 7 sts
Rows 8-9: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts
Row 10: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.
Rows 11-12: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts.
Row 13: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Rows 14-15: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts
Row 16: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 17: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts
Row 18: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts
Row 20: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 21: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts
Row 22: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next space, TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the last space, TKS in the last st. RP. – 21 sts
Row 23: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts
Row 24: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next space, TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the last space, TKS in the last st. RP. – 25 sts
Row 25: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next space, TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the last space, TKS in the last st. RP. – 29 sts
Row 26: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next space, TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the last space, TKS in the last st. RP. – 33 sts
Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts, TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 11 sts, TKS dec over the next 2 sts, TKS in the last st. RP – 29 sts.
Row 28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts
Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts, TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 9 sts, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the last st. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 30-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts
Switch to 3.50 mm regular crochet hook.
LDC Row 1: Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st, inserting hook into the tunisian stitches as if to TKS (but working regular crochet instead). 1 LDC (Linked Double Crochet, see Stitches & Techniques section in the main pattern) in ea of the next 24 sts.
LDC Rows 2-3 : Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in each stitch across.
Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing the pocket onto the coat.
Using the long yarn tail and tapestry needle, sew the pocket onto the outside of the finished coat using a whip stitch or your preferred seaming stitch.
I’ll be taking another long break from Elf Coats now, especially considering that I gloriously injured my shoulder while cranking out this particular coat! But no worries, there’s plenty more coming from your friendly neighborhood Mad Fiber Scientist… -MF
To see all available sizes of the FREE Elf Coat pattern, as well as all the available add-ons to this design, please visit the Elf Coat FAQ page for links!
It’s finally here you guys! This page contains the FREE PLUS SIZES pattern for the Elf Coat, my most popular pattern ❤ And it’s all thanks to you! Your encouragement, feedback, and testing (and of course LOVE) powered me through all the work necessary to get this design expanded for plus sizes. I simply can’t wait to see what you all make!
Although this pattern is written for XL and 2XL, the sizes are oversized, meaning that 2XL measurements cover the standard measurements for 3XL as well! Please see the Sizes section in the notes for more details on that 😉 If you need a reference for the sizing standards I use, those can be found here!
The portable, printable, ad-free PDF for this crochet pattern is also available in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store – purchasing the paid version of this pattern is a great way to directly support my art! Or if you don’t need the PDF, consider leaving a tip in the Tip Jar if you feel it’s worth it! 🙂
If you want to show off your awesome Elf Coat, have you joined our super nice and supportive Facebook Group, the Magic Fantastic Crochet Atelier? They (and I) would love to see your work!
Elf Coat Plus Sizes XL – 2XL / 3XL
Materials & Notes
6.5 (K) Tunisian hook 3.50 mm regular hook King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic) – 17, 19 skeins Pockets: 1 extra skein makes inset pockets, ~ ½ a skein makes outside pockets. Gauge for Riot DK: 9 sts & 10 rows = 2” Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 21, 23 skeins Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”
Sizes: X-Large, 2XL/3XL. Pattern instructional variations are given for each size, in this order. Where no variation occurs, instructions apply to all sizes. Please see notes below the finished measurement section for more details.
Finished Measurements: Measurements are approximate and given for the original gauge using Riot DK. Substituting a different yarn or gauge may result in different measurements.Waist: ~50″, 57” Bust: ~50″, 57” Hip: ~56″, 64” Sleeve: 22″ (measured armpit to hem), 22” Length: ~40″
Sizing Notes: This pattern is based on the number of wedges in the skirt, making 15 wedges (7 pointed, 8 simple) for the XL size, and 17 wedges (8 simple, 9 pointed) for the 2XL size. Please note that due to this incremental difference between all sizes (2 extra skirt panels per each size up) means that the Plus Sizes are actually oversized. This is why 3XL is included under 2XL – the 2XL is already bigger than the 3XL’s standard measurements based on this sizing system. Please be sure to measure your actual body size and compare to the measurements given for each size to determine which size to make. Bigger coats can also be adjusted to fit using the optional corset back lacing and belt tie additions included in this pattern. Some parts of the pattern include areas where lengthening or shortening is an option (the bottom of the front & back panels, the height of the waistband, and the crochet trim). Please be aware that if you need the coat length adjusted these options are available!
Configuration of wedges on size Small
Size medium
Size Large
Notes on yarn, gauge, and sizing:
Yarn: I chose King Cole Riot DK yarn for this pattern because of its long color changes and pretty one-ply structure that makes the colors and the stitches well defined. The DK weight and 30% wool content creates a sleek and lightweight fabric that is also very warm. However, the big box hobby stores in the U.S do not carry this yarn – I get it from a UK website called LoveKnitting.com (which I highly recommend!).
So, I wanted to find a substitute yarn that is more commercially available and the closest I could find was Red Heart Unforgettable, which also looks gorgeous for this design. RH Unforgettable is 100% acrylic, which has the benefit of zero felting, and being allergy/vegan friendly. It is also a #4 weight yarn which means it will gauge differently.
Above: Panels made in Red Hear Unforgettable
Gauge: Since the two yarns gauge differently, I have listed the gauges for each yarn individually under the materials section. These are using the 6.50 mm hook listed. If you use Unforgettable following it’s gauge, you can get a slightly bigger coat using the same stitch counts listed in the pattern.
9 stitches = 2″ in Riot DK
10 rows = 2″ in Riot DK
8 sts = 2″ in RH Unforgettable. It’s really more like 8.5 stitches, but we’re calling it 8 because of stretch!
9 rows = 2″
It’s also an option to change the hook size for Unforgettable to obtain the gauge given for Riot DK, if you want to use the alternate yarn but still get the size pictured.
NOTE FOR LEFTIES: If you are left-handed, your pattern pieces will be mirrored – for instance, your left panel for the torso of the jacket will be worked from the Right Panel pattern, and vice versa.
Technique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful crochet technique and I love it and highly recommend learning if you haven’t. But since this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just rows of regular stitches with some increases and decreases – that’s really it) a different technique can easily be substituted in. As long as your stitches match the gauge given, you could work this pattern in regular single crochet or regular knit stitch.
One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet or one regular knit/purl stitch.
I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single crochet, and obtained a closely matching gauge using a 4.0 mm hook.
If you are working this pattern in a regular crochet stitch, keep in mind that Tunisian crochet does not ever turn, so your rows will be alternately “opposite” what the Tunisian instructions are. For instance, a piece that decreases at the beginning of every row in Tunisian, will alternately decrease at the beginning and decrease at the end for a regular, turning stitch.
Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does wonders for your finished piece, especially with Tunisian crochet which tends to curl naturally. Blocking for this piece can be done simply by laying your piece out on a foam mat, using blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat and pretty and in the right shape. Using a spray bottle and plain water, wet the piece, then let dry. This works great with wool based yarns (King Cole Riot DK) and moderately well with acrylics (RH Unforgettable).
Both the simple wedges and the pointed wedges can be shortened by subtracting 8 rows right after the initial Row 1.
Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.
Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts.
Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts.
Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts Cut yarn and tie off.
Pointed Wedge (Make 7, 9):
The point is formed by concentrating the increases in the center part of the wedge, with increasing frequency as the wedge gets larger. There are no decreases used to form the point. When the pointed wedge is finished and tied off, stretch the central point outward gently to fully accent the shape.
Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 20-27: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next 8 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 29-32: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next 9 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 34-37: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next 10 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 39-42: TKS across, RP. – 25 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next 11 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 44-47: TKS across, RP. – 27 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. RP. – 33 sts
Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next 16 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 59: TKS across, RP. – 37 sts
Row 60: TKS in the next 17 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 61: TKS across, RP. – 39 sts
Row 62: TKS in the next 18 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts
Row 64: TKS in the next 19 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts
Row 66: TKS in the next 20 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 71: TKS in the next 25 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 72: TKS in the next 26 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 73: TKS in the next 27 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 74: TKS in the next 28 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 75: TKS in the next 29 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 76: TKS in the next 30 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 78: TKS in the next 32 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Skirt Construction
Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges as shown, seam all blocks together with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn.
Waist length for the size Small.
After stitching the wedges, the stretch at the seams will add width to the length of the coat bottom. This will be corrected by the waist stitching later.
Skirt Border:
The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked Double Crochet, worked back and forth, with increases at the point of each pointed wedge.
With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of the skirt hem.
Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at the point of each pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this increase.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each point where the increase was marked.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each ch-1 from the increase points of the previous row.
Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie off. You can work extra border here if you want the skirt longer!
Close-up of the increases placed at the point of each pointed wedge
WAIST:
The waist is worked directly onto the top of the wedges that make up the skirt. One stitch is skipped on every block, to create a slight decrease in width to accentuate the waist.
Waist size for Small
Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the line of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop from the foundation chain or first row of stitches using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 14, 16 times. RP. – 210, 238 sts
To modify the size here, add or subtract any rows after the first one to make it longer or shorter. To create inset pockets, see “Pockets” Instructions, before completing the waistband. Outside pockets may be completed after the waistband is finished.
Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP.
Bodice – Front & Back Panels
Note on Size for the Front & Back Panels:
All sizes work 26 rows of TKS before beginning to decrease and shape the collar and shoulder area. You can add or subtract rows from the total of 26 in order to modify the length of the coat.
The bodice panels should reach from the shoulders down to cover the bust and end just under the bust line. However many rows you work, be sure to work the same amount of TKS rows in the beginning for each panel!
Back Panel:
The back panel is worked the length of stitches that equals half of the number of stitches in the waist. In size XL, the waist is 210 sts. Divided in half, that’s 105. In 2XL, the waist is 238 sts, divided in half that’s 119.
The completed Back Panel should be approximately 13.5 inches tall for XL, and 14.5 for 2XL. If you need a longer measurement here (should reach just below the bust), add more rows where indicated in the pattern.
Back panel, Small
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 105, 119
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 104, 118 sts. Return pass (RP). – 105, 119 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 105, 119 sts
Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2.
To increase length of the front & back panels, add more rows here.
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 97, 111 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 103, 117 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 95, 109 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 101, 115 sts
Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 93, 107 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 99, 113 sts
Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 91, 105 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 97, 111 sts
Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 89, 103 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 95, 109 sts
Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 87, 101 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 93, 107 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 85, 99 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 91, 105 sts
Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 83, 97 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 89, 103 sts
Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 81, 95 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 87, 101 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 79, 93 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 85, 99 sts
Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 77, 91 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 83, 97 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 75, 89 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 81, 95 sts
Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 73, 87 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 79, 93 sts
Row 40: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 71, 85 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 77, 91 sts
Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 69, 83 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 75, 89 sts
Row 42: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 67, 81 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 73, 87 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 65, 79 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 71, 85 sts
Row 44: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 63, 77 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS I the next 2 sts. RP – 69, 83 sts
Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 61, 75 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 67, 81 sts
Row 46: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 59, 73 sts. TKs dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 65, 79 sts
Row 47: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 57, 71 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 63, 77 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55, 69 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 61, 75 sts
Row 49: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53, 67 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 59, 73 sts
Row 50: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 51, 65 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 57, 71 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 49, 63 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 55, 69 sts
Row 52: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 47, 61 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 53, 67 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 45, 59 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 51, 65 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43, 57 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 49, 63 sts
Row 55: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 41, 55 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 47, 61 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 39, 53 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 45, 59 sts
Row 57: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37, 51 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 43, 57 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 35, 49 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 41, 55 sts
Row 59: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 33, 47 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 39, 53 sts
Row 60: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31, 45 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 37, 51 sts
Row 61: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29, 43 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 35, 49 sts
Row 62: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27, 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33, 47 sts
Row 63: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25, 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 31, 45 sts
Row 64: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23, 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 29, 43 sts
Row 65: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21, 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 27, 41 sts
Row 66: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19, 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 25, 39 sts
Row 68: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 35 sts
Row 69: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Row 71: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Row 72: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Row 73: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 25 sts.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Front Panel – Right:
The front panels are worked with the length of stitches equaling the half of the waistband that the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two, so each panel will be a quarter of the total waistband stitches. For X-Larges, that’s 210 / 4 = 52.5. Since that’s not a whole number, I will round down to 52 and fudge the seam by one stitch. For 2X-Large, that’s 238 / 4 = 59. 5, again not a whole number so rounded down to 59.
The completed Front Panels should be approximately 13.5 inches in total length for XL, 14.5 for 2XL. If you need a longer measurement here (should reach to just below the bust), add extra rows where indicated in the pattern.
Front Panel, right, size small
Front Panels size medium
Front Panel, right, size large. Pictured is a panel with an alternate length of 38 rows in the beginning.
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 52, 59.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 50, 57 sts. Return pass (RP). – 52, 59 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 52, 59 sts
Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2.
To increase length of the front & back panels, add more rows here.
Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 48, 55 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 51, 58 sts.
Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 47, 54 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 50, 57 sts.
Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 46, 53 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 49, 56 sts.
Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 45, 52 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 48, 55 sts.
Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 44, 51 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 47, 54 sts.
Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 43, 50 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 46, 53 sts.
Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 42, 49 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 45, 52 sts.
Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 41, 48 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 44, 51 sts.
Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 40, 47 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 43, 50 sts.
Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 39, 46 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 42, 49 sts.
Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 38, 45. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 41, 48 sts.
Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 37, 44 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 40, 47 sts.
Row 39: TKS in ea of the next 36, 43 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 39, 46 sts
Row 40: TKS in ea of the next 35, 42 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 38, 45 sts
Row 41: TKS in ea of the next 34, 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 37, 44 sts
Row 42: TKS in ea of the next 33, 40 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 36, 43 sts
Row 43: TKS in ea of the next 32, 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 35, 42 sts
Row 44: TKS in ea of the next 31, 38 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 34, 41 sts
Row 45: TKS in ea of the next 30, 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 33, 40 sts
Row 46: TKS in ea of the next 29, 36 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 32, 39 sts
Row 47: TKS in ea of the next 28, 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 31, 38 sts
Row 48: TKS in ea of the next 27, 34 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 30, 37 sts
Row 49: TKS in ea of the next 26, 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 29, 36 sts
Row 50: TKS in ea of the next 25, 32 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 28, 35 sts
Row 51: TKS in ea of the next 24, 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 27, 34 sts
Row 52: TKS in ea of the next 23, 30 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 26, 33 sts
Row 53: TKS in ea of the next 22, 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25, 32 sts
Row 54: TKS in ea of the next 21, 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24, 31 sts
Row 55: TKS in ea of the next 20, 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23, 30 sts
Row 56: TKS in ea of the next 19, 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22, 29 sts
Row 57: TKS in ea of the next 18, 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21, 28 sts
Row 58: TKS in ea of the next 17, 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20, 27 sts
Row 59: TKS in ea of the next 16, 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19, 26 sts
XL stop here, resume at “All Sizes”
2XL Only
Row 60: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25 sts
Row 61: TKs in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 sts
Row 62: TKs in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23 sts
Row 63: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22 sts
Row 64: TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21 sts
Row 65: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20 sts
Row 66: TKS in ea of the next 16 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19 sts
All Sizes:
Row 60, 67: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 61, 68: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 62, 69: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 63, 70: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 64, 71: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 65, 72: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 66, 73: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Front Panel – Left:
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 52, 59.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 50, 57 sts. Return pass (RP). – 52, 59 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 52, 59 sts
Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2.
To increase length of the front & back panels, add more rows here.
Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 49, 56 sts. RP – 51, 58 sts.
Row 28: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 48, 55 sts. RP – 50, 57 sts.
Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 47, 54 sts. RP – 49, 56 sts.
Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 46, 53 sts. RP – 48, 55 sts.
Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 45, 52 sts. RP – 47, 54 sts.
Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 44, 51 sts. RP – 46, 53 sts.
Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 43, 50 sts. RP – 45, 52 sts.
Row 34: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 42, 49 sts. RP – 44, 51 sts.
Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 41, 48 sts. RP – 43, 50 sts.
Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 40, 47 sts. RP – 42, 49 sts.
Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 39, 46 sts. RP – 41, 48 sts.
Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 38, 45 sts. RP – 40, 47 sts.
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 37, 44 sts. RP. – 39, 46 sts
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 36, 43 sts. RP. – 38, 45 sts
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 35, 42 sts. RP. – 37, 44 sts
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 34, 41 sts. RP. – 36, 43 sts
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 33, 40 sts. RP. – 35, 42 sts
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 32, 39 sts. RP. – 34, 41 sts
Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 31, 38 sts. RP. – 33, 40 sts
Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30, 37 sts. RP. – 32, 39 sts
Row 47: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 29, 36 sts. RP. – 31, 38 sts
Row 48: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28, 35 sts. RP. – 30, 37 sts
Row 49: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 27, 34 sts. RP. – 29, 36 sts
Row 50: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 26, 33 sts. RP. – 28, 35 sts
Row 51: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25, 32 sts. RP. – 27, 34 sts
Row 52: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 24, 31 sts. RP. – 26, 33 sts
Row 53: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23, 30 sts. RP – 25, 32 sts
Row 54: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22, 29 sts. RP – 24, 31 sts
Row 55: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21, 28 sts. RP – 23, 30 sts
Row 56: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20, 27 sts. RP – 22, 29 sts
Row 57: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19, 26 sts. RP – 21, 28 sts
Row 58: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18, 25 sts. RP – 20, 27 sts
Row 59: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17, 24 sts. RP – 19, 26 sts
X-Larges stop here and resume at “All Sizes”
2X-Large Only
Row 60: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. RP – 25 sts
Row 61: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. RP – 24 sts
Row 62: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. RP – 23 sts
Row 63: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. RP – 22 sts
Row 64: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. RP – 21 sts
Row 65: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. RP – 20 sts
Row 66: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. RP – 19 sts
All Sizes:
Row 60, 67: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 61, 68: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 62, 69: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 63, 70: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 64, 71: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 65, 72: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 66, 73: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Seaming the Back & Front Panels and Adding the Skirt
Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch the sides of the panels together so that the long angles face each other. Stitch together the straight sides, but not the angles. Once the bodice is sewn together, line the flat bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach using a 5.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn by working a slip stitch through both pieces – you may also use a whip stitch seam here, but I prefer the slip stitch seam at the waist because it’s sturdier.
SLEEVE (Make 2):
The sleeves for all sizes begin with a 16-chain length, then work a portion of increases creating a slant that lines up with the slanted edge of the bodice. The sleeve then works decreases to size down for the main part of the arm (worked evenly), then increases again for the flared sleeve.
The former design placed the decrease portion at the ends of the rows, but the new 2.0 version is written so that the decreases are placed centrally, in the middle of the row. This allows the fabric to slant downward to follow the natural line of the shoulder. If you prefer working the old style, simply place the decreases at the ends of the rows instead 😊
Sleeve size small (old style decreases pictured)
Sleeve size large, new style decreases
Sleeve size small, with the new style of decreasing (above and below)
Ch 16.
Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts
Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts
Row 3: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 20 sts
Row 4: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 22 sts
Row 5: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 24 sts
Row 6: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 26 sts
Row 7: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 28 sts
Row 8: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 30 sts
Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 34 sts
Row 11: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 36 sts
Row 12: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 38 sts
Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts
Row 14: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts
Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 38 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts
Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 46 sts
Row 17: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 42 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts
Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 44 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 50 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 52 sts
Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts
Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 56 sts
Row 22: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 52 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 23: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 54 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 60 sts
Row 24: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 56 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 25: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 58 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 26: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 64 sts
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 60 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 66 sts
Row 28: TKS in ea st across. RP – 66 sts
Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 62 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts.
Row 30: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 64 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 70 sts
Row 32: TKS in ea st across. RP – 70 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 66 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 72 sts
Row 34: TKS in ea st across. RP – 72 sts
Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 68 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 74 sts
Row 36: TKS in ea st across. RP – 74 sts
Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 70 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 76 sts
Row 38: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76 sts
Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 72 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Row 40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
X-Larges Stop here, resume at All Sizes
2X-Larges Only
Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 74 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 80 sts
Row 42: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 76 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 82 sts
Row 44: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82 sts
Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 78 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 84 sts
Row 46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84 sts
Row 47: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 80 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 86 sts.
All Sizes:
Row 41, 48: TKS in ea of the next 29, 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30, 34 sts. RP. – 76, 84 sts
Row 42, 49: TKS in ea of the next 28, 32 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29, 33 sts. RP. – 74, 82 sts
Row 43, 50: TKS in ea of the next 27, 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 28, 32 sts. RP. – 72, 80 sts
Row 44, 51: TKS in ea of the next 26, 30 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27, 31 sts. RP. – 70, 78 sts
Row 45, 52: TKS in ea of the next 25, 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 26, 30 sts. RP. – 68, 76 sts
Row 46, 53: TKS in ea of the next 24, 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25, 29 sts. RP. – 66, 74 sts
Rows 47-87, 54 – 94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 66, 74 sts
Row 88, 95: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 60, 68 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 68, 76 sts
Row 89, 96: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68, 76 sts
Row 90, 97: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 62, 70 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 70, 78 sts
Row 91, 98: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 70, 78 sts
Row 92, 99: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64, 72 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 72, 80 sts
Row 93, 100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 72, 80 sts
Row 94, 101: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 66, 74 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 74, 82 sts
Row 95, 102: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 74, 82 sts
Row 96, 103: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 68, 76 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 76, 84 sts
Row 97, 104: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76, 84 sts
Row 98, 105: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70, 78 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 78, 86 sts
Row 99, 106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78, 86 sts
Row 100, 107: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 72, 80 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 80, 88 sts
Row 101, 108: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80, 88 sts
Row 102, 109: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 74, 82 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82, 90 sts
Row 103, 110: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82, 90 sts
Row 104, 111: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76, 84 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 84, 92 sts
Row 105, 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84, 92 sts
Row 106, 113: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 78, 86 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 86, 94 sts
Row 107, 114: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 86, 94 sts
Row 108, 115: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 80, 88 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 88, 96 sts
Row 109, 116: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88, 96 sts
Row 110, 117: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 82, 90 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 90, 98 sts
Row 111, 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 90, 98 sts
Row 112, 119: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 84, 92 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 92, 100 sts
Row 113, 120: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 92, 100 sts
Row 114, 121: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 86, 94 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 94, 102 sts
Row 115, 122: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 94, 102 sts
Row 116, 123: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 88, 96 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 96, 104 sts
Row 117, 124: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 96, 104 sts
Row 118, 125: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 90, 98 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 98, 106 sts
Row 119, 126: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98, 106 sts
Row 120, 127: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 92, 100 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 100, 108 sts
Row 121, 128: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 100, 108 sts
Row 122, 129: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 94, 102 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 102, 110 sts
Row 123, 130: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 102, 110 sts
Row 124, 131: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 96, 104 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 104, 112 sts
Row 125, 132: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 104, 112 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Seaming the Sleeve:
Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the piece. Seam together using a whip stitch, starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving toward the shoulder. At the underarm of the sleeve, leave 44, 51 rows unseamed on either side. Match the remaining opening to the front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows to cap the tops of the panels, overlapping the tops of the front & back panels by 4 stitches.
Sleeve seaming size small (old style sleeve pictured)
Sleeve fitting size Large, new style sleeve pictured. 4 of the 5 stitches at the top of the front panel are overlapped by the top 4 rows of the sleeve.
Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the front and back panels, using a one-to-one row/stitch ratio.
Close-up of the sleeve fitting.
Sleeve Border
With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam where the sleeve is sewn together.
Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 times in the same stitch, inserting hook as if to TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join with a slip stitch in the top of the first dc.
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first stitch and 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves longer here by adding extra border rounds of LDC.
Close-up of the sleeve border joining seam.
HOOD:
The hood is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete. This hood is has a very long point – it’s a lot of hood! If you prefer a slightly shorter hood, seed “Half Hood” instructions below the regular hood instructions. Either size hood can be made and attached to any size Elf Coat.
Working a Shortened Hood (Formerly the Half Hood): This is the alternative to the full size hood design which conserves a little yarn. Like the full hood, it is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete and seamed. To shorten it somewhat, I removed one of the two non-increase rows after each increase row in the first part of the design. You can use either hood interchangeably when creating your coat, though, no matter which size you are making! To work the Shortened Hood, skip one of the two non-increase rows between each increase row for the first 76 rows written. Then, resume the Hood pattern as normal at Row 77.
Shortened Hood, above
Full Hood, above
Ch 3.
Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of the next 2 chain stitches. RP. – 3 sts
Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Rows 3-4: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts
Row 5: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next 3 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Rows 6-7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts
Row 8: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.
Rows 9-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts
Row 11: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 12-13: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts
Row 14: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Rows 15-16: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts
Row 17: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 18-19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts
Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 21-22: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts
Row 23: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 24-25: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 19 sts
Row 26: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 27-28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts
Row 29: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 30-31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts
Row 32: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 33-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts
Row 35: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 36-37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts
Row 38: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 39-40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts
Row 41: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 42-43: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 31 sts
Row 44: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 33 sts
Row 45-46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts
Row 47: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 35 sts.
Rows 48-49: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 35 sts
Row 50: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 37 sts.
Rows 51-52: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts
Row 53: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 39 sts
Rows 54-55: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 39 sts
Row 56: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 41 sts
Rows 57-58: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 41 sts
Row 59: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 43 sts
Rows 60-61: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 43 sts
Row 62: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 45 sts
Rows 63-64: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts
Row 65: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 47 sts
Rows 66-67: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 49 sts
Rows 69-70: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 49 sts
Row 71: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 51 sts
Rows 72-73: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts
Row 74: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 53 sts
Rows 75-76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.
Row 77: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in ea of the next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 58 sts
Rows 78-79: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts
Row 80: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 63 sts
Rows 81-82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 63 sts
Row 83: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp) 4 times. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Rows 84-85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 86: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 16 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Rows 87-88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 73 sts
Row 89: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Rows 90-91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 92: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 83 sts
Rows 93-94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts
Row 95: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 88 sts
Rows 96-97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts
Row 98: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 93 sts
Rows 99-100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 93 sts
Row 101: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 98 sts
Rows 102-103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts
Row 104: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 103 sts
Rows 105-106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 103 sts
Row 107: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 108 sts
Rows 108-109: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 108 sts
Row 110: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 113 sts
Rows 111 – 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 113 sts
Row 113: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 118 sts
Rows 114 – 115: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 118 sts
Row 116: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 123
Rows 117 – 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 123 sts
Row 119: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 128 sts
Rows 120-121: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 128 sts
Row 122: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 133 sts
Rows 123-124: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 133 sts
Row 125: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 138 sts
Rows 126-127: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 138 sts
Row 128: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 143 sts
Rows 129-130: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 143 sts
Row 131: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 148 sts
Rows 132-133: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 148 sts
Row 134: TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 153 sts
Rows 135 – 151: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 153 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Seaming the Hood
Fold the large triangle down the center length so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other and the wrong sides are out.
Using stitch markers, count from the opening of the hood (the long side) 33 rows down on each side. Mark the 33rd row on each side.
With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, make a whip stitch seam starting at the point of the hood and seaming toward the opening of the hood.
Seam the hood until you reach the rows marked with stitch markers. Cut yarn. Turn your hood inside out so that the right sides are facing out again. This leaves 33 rows left unseamed on either side.
Shortened Hood pictured above
How did I get the number of rows to leave unseamed? It’s (8+8) to account for the small angled part on each side of the front panel, plus (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then (25- 8 = 17) to cover the portion of the top of the back panel not already covered by the cap of the sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded up to 66 to get an whole number when I halved it – so 33 rows left unseamed on either side of the hood.
The hood then is seamed to the collar of the garment (once all sleeves and bodice have been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching the points of the hood opening indicated by the red dots to the beginning of the collar on the front, also indicated by red dots.
Seam the hood around the collar opening, matching stitch for stitch.
Front Border and Closures
We’re almost done!Next up is to use four rows of LDC to add a border across the entire front opening, beginning with the hem, working up the opening of the garment, going around the edge of the hood, and working back down the other side of the front opening. After the third row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the buttons. For traditional buttonholes, stop to mark the placement after the second row.
Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of the skirt border rows.
Ch 3.
Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1 LDC in the side of each row across the next wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side of each row across the front panel, waist band, and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each LDC of the skirt border.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1. Traditional buttonholes, mark placement here.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2. Loop buttonholes, mark placement here.
Close-up of LDC border
Mark where your buttons will be on one side, and mark an equidistant space on the other side of the border for where you will place your loops or buttonholes. I began with one button/closure on the top and bottom edge of the waist band, then used this measurement (17 sts between each placement) to space the other buttons. I made five button placements total.
Once your button placements have been marked, begin the rest of the rows.
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you reach a button/closure marker. If you are on the button side, keep working LDC’s. If you are on the closure side, there are two options: You can chain a couple stitches and skip over working a couple stitches, which creates a buttonhole within the band and a tighter closure. I opted to use a loop closure for the small, which leaves the front a little more open when buttoned.
If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big enough to fit the button through, then slip stitch in the same stitch. Continue working LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain loop at any point where a closure is marked.
If making traditional buttonholes, stop LDC and chain one before a marked stitch. Skip marked stitch and resume LDC until you reach the next marked stitch, repeat.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Stopping to chain a loop closure
Traditional buttonholes
After finishing the final border row, use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach each button at the marked location on the opposite side of the closures.
Recently I’ve been making a lot of halter tops (hello, 90 degree weather!) and my latest version of last summer’s debut pattern the Acanthus Top was so deep green and foresty that I had to add a little extra somethin’ somethin’..
That leafy fringe across the bottom utilizes the Quirky Leaf Motif, an element that was already included in the pattern, to add an extra border to help catch movement and swing on this cute summer top! I added the instructions for doing this leafy fringe border into the original pattern as an extra option, so everyone can enjoy 🙂
The Acanthus Top is available as a PDF file for purchase in my Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop and includes instructions for all the elements seen on this example ❤ Best of all it’s available in sizes XS – 2XL!
This top is designed to be great for dancing – most of my personal halter tops end up being danced around in drum circles actually (although not as much lately – waiting patiently for July so I can do that again!) Since it’s such an easy top to move around in, it surely needed a fringe or hanging decoration to accent the joyful movement 🙂
As always I made this halter top in shades of I Love This Cotton! (still looking for a perfect substitute for this yarn so I don’t have to shop at Hobby Lobby). #4 weight yarn makes this project quick and comfortable and I LOOOOOOOVE the wide shoulder straps on it, probably one of the most comfortable halter tops I’ve ever designed!
The leafy crochet necklace I’m wearing is an older FREE design of mine, the Ivy Crown, which you can find on my blog by following the link 🙂 Both these comfy cotton goodies center around my Quirky Leaf Motif, a versatile little shape that you can crochet onto long chains.
I’m dreaming up more crochet halter tops as we speak, they are so fun and fast a #4 cotton yarn, it’s very addicting 🙂
Even more so when you get to morph into your elf self for the occasion ❤ Have fun and stay safe out there – and remember to hydrate!
One of the best things about doing more video media is the ability to show my latest and greatest crochet projects in action! Today’s post introduces the newest video on my YouTube Channel, which is a Hook Review that goes over some different hook types and hook brands that I’ve used. In that video, I feature several of my own patterns but also this lovely crochet overalls dress from The Dream Crochet Shoppe on Etsy! I finished her pattern recently and love the product so much I had to show it off by wearing it for the review – here’s a few snapshots of this cute crochet design!
I don’t get to branch out to work other people’s crochet patterns nearly as often as I’d like, since all my crochet mojo is usually funneled toward creating my own original designs. But I make an effort every so often to stop and pull out a pattern from my (ever growing) collection of purchased PDF’s. It’s a fantastic way to branch out and learn from others and also to give my own brain a break 🙂 I adore Ashlee Elle’s designs and she has SO many to choose from! Check her out on Instagram, too!
In my newest video, I wanted to go over some of the crochet hook types and hook brands that I have in my collection of tools. Crochet hooks are super important (duh) to your work because changes in hooks will create subtle changes in your projects and you want to use the right tool for the job, but one that also works well for you individually! That’s why it’s a good idea to know what’s available.
Brands reviewed cover Boye and Susan Bates (the “regular” aluminum metal style hooks), Clover (soft grip and contoured), and specifically reviews Furls crochet hooks – are they really worth the money?
My current Furls collection says yes 😉 All opinions expressed are just mine and I haven’t been compensated or influenced in any way by the brands I talk about here! Just a crocheter’s honest thoughts. After all, they are our magic wands so every crocheter will have their favorites for their personal collection 🙂
Hook Review
I mention two of my own designs in the video too, here are the links to the posts with more info on those! Mandala Top Cobweb Wrap
I also mention the Field Guide to Crochet Gauge and Yarn Behavior, a blog post of mine that outlines some of the ways that gauge, hooks, and yarn types interact within crochet projects. There’s so much to learn about the finer points of crochet and I’m always trying to learn more – I hope my perspective is inspiring and helpful to your personal fiber art journey 🙂
No so with the Magic Ring! Although it still tends to look like a cat’s booty, but whaddyagonnado. 😉 
