Avocado Dream Catcher, made from handspun wool and alpaca fiber hand-dyed with avocado skins. I created the natural dye with vegetable waste from my job at the co-op grocery!
It used to be my practice to write a summer wrap-up post for Morale Fiber Blog, and though I haven’t always done so, I fall back into my old habit today! I won’t be going over summer projects so much as talking a bit about my life situation, my business, and where I hope to go in the future. It’s a bit more of an intimate look into how I, as a person, manage Morale Fiber.
That’s me, un-wigged and un-filtered and un-photoshopped. But with great lighting, of course. 😉
I have loved fiber arts since the minute I was handed my first sewing kit as a child – when my mom taught me my first crochet stitches when I was 10 years old, that interest was cemented into a lifelong habit. In time I expanded into knitting, spinning, dyeing, and any other fiber craft I could get my hands on as well as my first love, crochet.
Fast forward A LOT – last December I finally graduated with a bachelor’s degree in Arts and Humanities. In addition to working full-time at the co-op grocery, since January I have been concentrating almost solely on completing and releasing all three adult sizes of the Elf Coat crochet pattern for free on my blog and as a purchasable PDF pattern. I poured so much energy and love into this design, and over TWO YEARS worth of experimenting and tweaking the pattern. Now the Elf Coat is currently competing for top popularity on my blog with my Lotus Mandala Duster. 🙂
I’ve said it so many times : the BEST part about designing is connecting with other fiber artists and seeing what all the amazing, clever, resourceful people create with my patterns. I love seeing everyone’s projects and sharing them for inspiration, and this spurred me to accomplish another goal this summer – to start a Facebook group for my business based around boho, magical, and fantasy crochet designs, the Magic Fantastic Crochet Atelier.
The response has been, yes, fantastic 🙂 I hope if you have your own designs to share that you will join us too! I love having this group as a way to connect more personally with those who follow my page and love the same craft that I do ❤
I’ve been amazed at the level of support my art has received, because really I’m just a silly fantasy nerd who decided years ago that I needed to put my stuff on the internet for some reason. When I look at where I am now, I know the Regina of eight years ago would not believe it. It’s a gratifying feeling 😀
Fast forward again – to just a few days ago, when a number of people contacted me to let me know a sham clothing company, using multiple web fronts, was using my Elf Coat images to sell what they claimed were my designs.
Unfortunately, as soon as I contacted one of the e-mail addresses provided for a website doing this, about 20 other false web fronts doing the exact same thing popped up, all under different names and all advertising to my followers on Facebook. Frustrating? Absolutely.
Getting ripped off sucks, and I’ve seen it happen to a number of my favorite indie artisans and designers. In fact, I’ve seen it happen to so many of my favorite designers, that being included in the same category as them is a tiny little bit gratifying actually, ha ha!
I am grateful that so many people rushed to my defense. I couldn’t ask to know better people through this business ❤ Yes, I had my image stolen, but ultimately the people who want to support me are those that want to make something for themselves, not buy cheap crap that may or may not be just a credit card number fishing scam.
That’s the real plus side to building my business on making patterns. Not only do I get to help create art all around the world, but I get to know and be supported by people who value the effort and time and satisfaction that goes into creating something with your own two hands. That’s love. That’s the love you wrap your family members and friends in when you make something for them. That’s the love you wrap yourself in when you enter the calming meditation of stitching. No one can mass manufacture that. No one can create that except for all of us, together ❤ ❤
Friends and beautiful models Arika Harris and Daisey Denson wearing my Feather & Scale Halter Top design
I’m tearing up, over here 😉
So, that about concludes the ramble-y, emotional portion of this post. Now I’d like to talk for a minute about how I manage Morale Fiber. My revenue comes from two main sources: paid pattern sales and selling ad space on my blog.
As I mention on my Master List of Paid Patterns, selling pattern PDF files are my main source of business income. If you want to support me, buying my patterns through my Etsy Shop or Ravelry store is a great way to do so and get something awesome you can make in return!
Selling ad space on my blog also provide revenue, but it’s less than 5% of my overall take. And, let’s face it – it’s kind of ugly. I avoided doing it for a while because it was so ugly, but over several years of blogging I had too many images for my free blog plan to host and so I had to move to a paid plan. Ad space revenue helps me pay for the yearly subscription to keep my blog going so you can get all the latest updates and all those sweet freebies! Every time you view my blog page, I make a slight fraction of a penny.
The Hooded Lotus Duster, for which the full written patterns are available on Morale Fiber Blog.
A pretty good portion of my free time outside of my day job is spent managing Morale Fiber by making social media posts and responding to questions and e-mails for both my paid and my free patterns. I love to talk shop which is great because I end up doing it A LOT ❤
I also spend plenty of time designing. I fill my computer files and notebooks with jotted down ideas, test yarns and gauge, make drafts, make more drafts, make MORE DRAFTS, and hopefully finally come up with something I can write down as a pattern (but only after making this one more draft). 😉
The Ida Shawl takes the win for most maddening amount of drafts.
It’s a labor of love, and I hope you love what I come up with. After the illegal theft of my images, I had the opportunity to see with new eyes that many people did love making my designs, and it helped me enormously. Today I wanted to humbly offer this third way to support my art – a donation button.
You don’t have to donate, and I am certainly grateful for the support no matter what amount of patronage you have or will give Morale Fiber. But if you do love my designs and want to show your support, as well as contribute to the creation of more patterns and designs by me, you now have this option!
Donation
Patronage Donation for Morale Fiber Designs
$1.00
I’m very excited about what I have in the works right now, including the long-promised Lotus Duster video tutorial, a new circular vest design with a ton of customizing options, a new scrap knit garment tutorial.. and that’s just the beginning.
As always, thank you so very much for visiting and thank you for creating art with me ❤
Last summer I started working on the Daydreamer Poncho design, which I imagined as a fun lightweight accessory which would be good for using up spare bits of yarn and playing with color. The final product, or at least semi-final, came out great and I enjoyed the actual crocheting of the design as well, but I didn’t use scraps because I wanted to create a more streamlined product.
Mistake.
Okay, well, not mistake. I like the original, but I still felt it the design wanted to be more colorful and less structured. So I did another version recently, using a bunch of little scrap yarn balls and allowing myself to really play with color.
As I was making this piece, it occurred to me that it would also make a pretty cute bohemian skirt! Since it has a drawstring at the collar (or in this case, the waist) it was so easy to convert 😀 I left off the fringe for this one, and once I finished I just couldn’t wait to get it pictured.
So, I have updated the pattern with this new style! The pattern update isn’t much more than new pictures (I altered two other little rounds, to make it looser at the shoulders/hips) but I do think it’s a little more creatively inspiring. I hope that either way you love making it! ❤
Get the PDF for the Daydreamer Poncho in my Ravelry Store or Etsy Shop, or read the original info on this design on my blog.
This design uses a lot of Chain and Stitch joins, which are a great crochet trick to have in your skill box – you can find a FREE tutorial for that technique right here on my blog as well!
As always ,thank you for visiting my blog and supporting my art! ❤ Much love,
It’s finally time! The instructions for the Elf Coat, including all three adult sizes (Small, Medium, and Large) and the tutorial for the corset back lacing is all gathered and published in one downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF!
Without further ado, here is the pattern now available in my Ravelry Store and my Etsy shop for just 5.95 USD!
I’m so grateful for everyone that has supported and followed my work ❤ I really couldn’t feel more blessed, having had so many people give me kind words, feedback, and of course pictures of the awesome things they’ve made!
ONE quick answer to a question a lot of people have asked – what about more sizes? The answer is that I will probably EVENTUALLY write more sizes for the Elf Coat such as XL and YA/Kids sizing, but for now I am going to take a much needed break from working on this pattern 🙂 I’ve been laboring over it for literal years, and though I love this design as one of my most precious brain children, I need to work on other things for a while 🙂 You can see what I’m up to by liking and following my Facebook Page or find out what others are making with my designs by joining the MF crochet group, the Magic Fantastic Crochet Atelier!
And now, read on for the pattern spiel!
This elegant fantasy-inspired sweater coat features an A-line silhouette with a curling, pointed geometric hem shape inspired by flower blossoms, delicate pointed bell sleeves, and of course a long and ample pointed elf hood. The variegated yarn creates dazzling prisms of color across the separately worked pieces of the coat.
Featuring Tunisian crochet in a stitch that mimics knitting, the texture and weave of this coat is both sleek and warm. The Tunisian technique creates a tightly constructed fabric that drapes nicely while also holding a tailored shape that fits and flatters.
Lots of inspiration for this came from recycled sweater artist Katwise, and you should definitely check out her website at http://www.katwise.com !
Materials: 6.5 (K) Tunisian hook 3.50 mm regular hook King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic – color shown is Autumn) – 10, 13, 16 skeins *OR* Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 13, 16, 20 skeins
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large. Pattern instruction changes are given in for each size, in this order.
One extra element I’ve been dying to get worked out on my Elf Coat design (available for FREE here on my blog in sizes Small, Medium, and Large) was the corset back lacing. Remember the original, original draft of this design? It featured a corset back, and this newer iteration was to get the same treatment.
The first Elf Coat didn’t, however, because at certain points I just HAVE to call something done and move on for a minute. Well, here I am having finally finished the second Elf Coat in size Medium (like… 6 months later) and it was time.
And. I. Am. In. LOVE with how it worked out, true to the vision I had in my head. Don’t you just love it when that happens? This extra feature makes the coat more adjustable and definitely flatters even more! Here’s how to do it!
Corset Back Lacing
On the back of the finished Elf Coat, locate the central panel in the series. Locate the two panels on either side of the central panel, then mark the stitches on the two outer edges of these panels with a stitch marker. I went just a few stitches outside of this point even, but you can adjust based on how much you wish to be able to cinch the coat. We will be working 4 rows of LDC directly into the TKS, running vertically up the back, then repeating this process on the mirror side.
With the 3.50 hook and yarn, attach at the marked stitch by inserting the hook through the two front bars of the knit stitch, as if they were the two top bars of a regular crochet stitch.
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). LDC in the next 41 sts. You may also alter the length of the corset backing, if your coat is longer or you want a higher cinch.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Sk next st, LDC in the next 38 sts. Sk next st, LDC in the last st.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. Sk next st, LDC in the next 2 sts. Ch 1, sk next st. (LDC in the next 4 sts, ch 1, sk next st) 6 times. LDC in the next 3 sts.
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. Sk next st, LDC in the next 35 sts, sk next st. LDC in the last st.
Repeat Rows 1 -4 on the opposite side at the point marked.
Cut yarn and tie off, weave in all ends. I used a mesh/ribbon yarn to lace mine!
As I mentioned in the intro, this does not spell the end of the Elf Coat saga I am sure – I would also like to add pockets, maybe a tie belt option…. fur trim… you name it!
Thanks to all the beautiful people out there who expressed love and enthusiasm for the Elf Coat saga, I have managed to finish writing the Large size pattern! I really enjoyed working on this design, particularly gathering inspiration and feedback from social media, as it evolved and transformed for me. And, I’m sure it isn’t done yet!
The downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF pattern is also available for purchase now in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Pattern Store, and includes all three sizes plus the tutorial for the corset back!
You can also find the sizes Small and Medium patterns for FREE on my blog. If you want to be in the loop on everything I’m working on be sure to follow my Facebook page here and join my Magical Crochet FB group here!
Size pictured: small
Elf Coat Pattern: Large
Materials
6.5 (K) Tunisian hook 3.50 mm regular hook King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic – color shown is Autumn) – 16 skeins Gauge for Riot DK: 9 sts & 10 rows = 2” (top of ea block = 3.5”) Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 20 skeins Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”
Sizes: Large. (Small and Medium can be found on my blog for free as well!
This pattern is based on the number of wedges in the skirt. Large is made from a 13-wedge skirt (7 pointed, 6 simple). Shown below is a size Small, made from 9 wedges.
Size Medium: 5 pointed wedges, 6 simple wedges
Notes on
yarn, gauge, and sizing:
Yarn: I chose King Cole Riot DK yarn for this
pattern because of it’s long color changes and pretty one-ply structure that
makes the colors and the stitches well defined. The DK weight and 30% wool
content creates a sleek and lightweight fabric that is also very warm. However,
the big box hobby stores in the U.S do not carry this yarn – I get it from a UK
website called LoveKnitting.com (which I highly recommend!).
So, I wanted to find a substitute yarn that is more
commercially available and the closest I could find was Red Heart
Unforgettable, which also looks gorgeous for this design. RH Unforgettable is
100% acrylic, which has the benefit of zero felting, and being allergy/vegan
friendly. It is also a #4 weight yarn which means it will gauge differently.
Gauge: Since the two yarns gauge differently, I have listed the gauges for each yarn individually under the materials section. These are using the 6.50 mm hook listed. If you use Unforgettable following it’s gauge, you can get a slightly bigger coat using the same stitch counts listed in the pattern.
9 stitches = 2″ in Riot DK
10 rows = 2″ in Riot DK
8 sts = 2″ in RH Unforgettable. It’s really more like 8.5
stitches, but we’re calling it 8 because of stretch!
9 rows = 2″
It’s also an option to change the hook size for
Unforgettable to obtain the gauge given for Riot DK, if you want to use the
alternate yarn but still get the size pictured.
NOTE FOR LEFTIES: If you are left-handed, your pattern
pieces will be mirrored – for instance, your left panel for the torso of the
jacket will be worked from the Right Panel pattern, and vice versa.
Technique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful
crochet technique and I love it and highly recommend learning if you haven’t.
But since this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just rows of regular
stitches with some increases and decreases – that’s really it) a different
technique can easily be substituted in. As long as your stitches match the gauge
given, you could work this pattern in regular single crochet or regular knit
stitch.
One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet or one
regular knit/purl stitch.
I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single crochet, and
obtained a closely matching gauge using a 4.0 mm hook.
Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does
wonders for your finished piece, especially with Tunisian crochet which tends
to curl. Blocking for this piece can be done simply by laying your piece out on
a foam mat, using blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat and pretty
and in the right shape. Using a spray bottle and plain water, wet the piece,
then let dry. This works great with wool based yarns (King Cole Riot DK) and
moderately well with acrylics (RH Unforgettable).
Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return
pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS
in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts.
RP. – 17 sts
Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st,
increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.
Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st,
increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts.
Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st,
increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts.
Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Pointed Wedge (Make 7):
Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return
pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS
in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts.
RP. – 17 sts
Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 20-27: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next 8 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 29-32: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next 9 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 34-37: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next 10 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 39-42: TKS across, RP. – 25 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next 11 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 44-47: TKS across, RP. – 27 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. RP. – 33 sts
Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next 16 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 59: TKS across, RP. – 37 sts
Row 60: TKS in the next 17 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 61: TKS across, RP. – 39 sts
Row 62: TKS in the next 18 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts
Row 64: TKS in the next 19 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts
Row 66: TKS in the next 20 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 71: TKS in the next 25 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 72: TKS in the next 26 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 73: TKS in the next 27 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 74: TKS in the next 28 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 75: TKS in the next 29 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 76: TKS in the next 30 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 78: TKS in the next 32 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Skirt Construction
Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges as shown, seam
all blocks together with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of
yarn.
Skirt Border:
The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked Double
Crochet, worked back and forth, with increases at the point of each pointed
wedge.
With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of the skirt hem.
Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at
the point of each pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this increase.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each
point where the increase was marked.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each
ch-1 from the increase points of the previous row.
Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie off. You can
work extra border here if you want the skirt longer!
Close-up of the increases placed at the point of each
pointed wedge
WAIST:
The waist is worked directly onto the top of the wedges that
make up the skirt. One stitch is skipped on every block, to create a slight
decrease in width to accentuate the waist.
Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the tops of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 12 times. RP. – 182 sts Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP. To modify the size here, add or subtract any rows after the first one to make it longer or shorter.
Back Panel:
The back panel is worked the length of stitches that equals half of the number of stitches in the waist. . In Large, 182 divided by 2 equals 91.
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 91 Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 89 sts. Return pass (RP). – 91 stitches Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 91 sts Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2. Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 83 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 89 sts Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 81 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 87 sts Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 79 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 85 sts Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 77 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 83 sts Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 75 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 81 sts Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 73 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 79 sts Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 71 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 77 sts Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 69 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 75 sts Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 67 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 65 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 71 sts Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 63 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 69 sts Row 38: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 61 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 67 sts Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 59 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 65 sts Row 40: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 57 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 63 sts Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 61 sts Row 42: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 59 sts Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 51 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 57 sts Row 44: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS I the next 2 sts. RP – 55 sts Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 53 st
Row 46: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKs dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 51 sts Row 47: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 49 sts Row 48: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 47 sts Row 49: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 45 sts Row 50: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 43 sts Row 51: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 41 sts Row 52: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 39 sts Row 53: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 37 sts Row 54: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 35 sts Row 55: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33 sts Row 56: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 31 sts Row 57: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 29 sts Row 58: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 27 sts Row 59: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 25 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Front Panel – Right:
The front panels are worked with the length of stitches equaling the half of the waistband that the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two, so each panel will be a quarter of the total waistband stitches. For larges, 182 / 4 = 45.5. Since that’s not a whole number, I will round down to 45 and fudge the seam a tiny bit.
Front panel, right. The panel pictured is worked with 38 even rows in the beginning to create a longer coat. The pattern is written for 26.
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 45. Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 43 sts. Return pass (RP). – 45 stitches Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 45 sts Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2. Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 44 sts. Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 40 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 43 sts. Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 42 sts. Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 38 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 41 sts. Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 40 sts. Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 36 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 39 sts. Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 36 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 38 sts. Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP –37 sts. Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 36 sts. Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 35 sts. Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 34 sts. Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 33 sts Row 39: TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 32 sts Row 40: TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 31 sts Row 41: TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 30 sts Row 42: TKS in ea of the next 27sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 29 sts Row 43: TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 28 sts Row 44: TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 27 sts Row 45: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 26 sts
Row 46: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25 sts Row 47: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 sts Row 48: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23 sts Row 49: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22 sts Row 50: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21 sts Row 51: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20 sts Row 52: TKS in ea of the next 16 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19 sts Row 53: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts Row 54: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts Row 55: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts Row 56: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts Row 57: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts Row 58: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts Row 59: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Front Panel – Left:
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 45. Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 29, 36, 43 sts. Return pass (RP). – 45 stitches Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. –45 sts Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2. Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 42 sts. RP – 44 sts. Row 28: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 41 sts. RP – 43 sts. Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 40 sts. RP – 42 sts. Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 39 sts. RP – 41 sts. Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 38 sts. RP – 40 sts. Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 37 sts. RP – 39 sts. Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 36 sts. RP – 38 sts. Row 34: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 35 sts. RP – 37 sts. Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. RP – 36 sts. Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. RP – 35 sts. Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. RP – 34 sts. Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. RP – 33 sts.
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. RP. – 32 sts Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. RP. – 31 sts Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. RP. – 30 sts Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. RP. – 29 sts Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. RP. – 28 sts Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. RP. – 27 sts Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. RP. – 26 sts
Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. RP. – 25 sts Row 47: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. RP. – 24 sts Row 48: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. RP. – 23 sts Row 49: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. RP. – 22 sts Row 50: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. RP. – 21 sts Row 51: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. RP. – 20 sts Row 52: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. RP. – 19 sts. Row 53: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts Row 54: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts Row 55: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts Row 56: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts Row 57: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts Row 58: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts Row 59: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Cut yarn and tie
off.
Seam the Back & Front Panels
Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch
the sides of the panels together so that the long angles face each other.
Stitch together the straight sides, but not the angles. Once the bodice is sewn
together, line the flat bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach using
a 3.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn by working a slip stitch through both
pieces.
SLEEVE (Make 2):
Sleeve size large, in progress.
Ch 16. Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts Row 3: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 20 sts Row 4: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 22 sts Row 5: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 24 sts Row 6: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 26 sts Row 7: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 28 sts Row 8: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 30 sts Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 34 sts Row 11: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 36 sts Row 12: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 38 sts Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts Row 14: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 38 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 46 sts Row 17: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 42 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 44 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 50 sts Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 52 sts Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 56 sts Row 22: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 52 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 58 sts Row 23: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 54 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 60 sts
Row 24: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 56 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 62 sts Row 25: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 58 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 64 sts Row 26: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 60 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 66 sts Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 62 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts. Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 64 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 70 sts
Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 66 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 72 sts Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 68 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 74 sts Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 70 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 76 sts Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 72 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 78 sts Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 74 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 80 sts
Row 34: TKS in ea st across. Rp. – 80 sts Row 35: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 74 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 78 sts Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 72 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 76 sts. Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 70 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 74 sts Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 68 sts. TKs dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in the final st. RP. – 72 sts. Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 66 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 70 sts. Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 64 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 68 sts.
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 66 sts. Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 64 sts. Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 58 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 62 sts Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 56 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 60 sts Rows 46 – 86: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 60 sts Row 87: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 54 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 62 sts Row 88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 62 sts Row 89: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 56 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 64 sts Row 90: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 64 sts Row 91: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 58 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 66 sts Row 92: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 66 sts Row 93: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 68 sts Row 94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts Row 95: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 70 sts Row 96: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 70 sts Row 97: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 72 sts Row 98: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 72 sts Row 99: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 66 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 74 sts Row 100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 74 sts Row 101: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 68 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 76 sts Row 102: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76 sts Row 103: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts Row 104: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts Row 105: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 72 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 80 sts Row 106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts Row 107: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 74 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82 sts Row 108: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82 sts Row 109: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 84 sts Row 110: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84 sts Row 111: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 78 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 86 sts Row 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 86 sts Row 113: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 80 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 88 sts Row 114: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts Row 115: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 82 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 90 sts Row 116: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 90 sts Row 117: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 84 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 92 sts Row 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 92 sts Row 119: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 86 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 94 sts Row 120: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 94 sts Row 121: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 88 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 96 sts Row 122: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 96 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Seaming the Sleeve:
Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the piece. Seam
together using a whip stitch, starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving
toward the shoulder. At the underarm of the sleeve, match the remaining opening
to the front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows to cap the tops of the
panels, overlapping the top by 4 stitches.
Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the front and
back panels.
Close-up of the sleeve fitting.
Sleeve Border
With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam where the sleeve
is sewn together.
Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 times in the same stitch,
inserting hook as if to TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join with a
slip stitch in the top of the first dc.
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first stitch and 3 times in the next
st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in
the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves longer here
by adding extra border rounds of LDC.
Close-up of sleeve border. Beware my join is not in the same
place pictured as is written in the pattern – whoops!
HOOD:
The hood is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete. This hood is has a very long point – it’s a lot of hood! If you prefer a shorter hood, seed “Half Hood” instructions in the Size Medium pattern. Either size hood can be made and attached to any size Elf Coat.
Ch 3.
Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of the next 2 chain stitches. RP. –
3 sts
Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next
space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Rows 3-4: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts
Row 5: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next 3 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Rows 6-7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts
Row 8: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next sp.
TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.
Rows 9-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts
Row 11: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next sp.
TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 12-13: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts
Row 14: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next sp.
TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Rows 15-16: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts
Row 17: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 18-19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts
Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 21-22: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts
Row 23: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 24-25: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 19 sts
Row 26: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 27-28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts
Row 29: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 30-31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts
Row 32: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 33-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts
Row 35: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 36-37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts
Row 38: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 39-40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts
Row 41: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 42-43: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 31 sts
Row 44: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 33 sts
Row 45-46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts
Row 47: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 35 sts.
Rows 48-49: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 35 sts
Row 50: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 37 sts.
Rows 51-52: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts
Row 53: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 39 sts
Rows 54-55: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 39 sts
Row 56: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 41 sts
Rows 57-58: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 41 sts
Row 59: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 43 sts
Rows 60-61: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 43 sts
Row 62: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 45 sts
Rows 63-64: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts
Row 65: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 47 sts
Rows 66-67: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 49 sts
Rows 69-70: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 49 sts
Row 71: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 51 sts
Rows 72-73: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts
Row 74: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS inc in the next
sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 53 sts
Rows 75-76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.
Row 77: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in ea of the next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the
next sp. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in
the final st. RP. – 58 sts
Rows 78-79: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts
Row 80: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the
next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in
the final st. RP. – 63 sts.
Rows 81-82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 63 sts
Row 83: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the
next sp) 4 times. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Rows 84-85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 86: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 16
sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Rows 87-88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 73 sts
Row 89: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 17
sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts.
Rows 90-91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 92: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the
next 18 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 83
sts
Rows 93-94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts
Row 95: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the
next 19 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP.
– 88 sts
Rows 96-97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts
Row 98: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the
next 20 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP.
– 93 sts
Rows 99-100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 93 sts
Row 101: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the
next 21 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP.
– 98 sts
Rows 102-103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts
Rows 104-121: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Seaming the Hood
Fold the large triangle down the center length so that the
right sides of the fabric are facing each other and the wrong sides are out.
With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, make a whip stitch seam starting
at the point of the hood and seaming over the next 89 (Full Hood) or 63 (Half
Hood) rows toward the opening of the hood.
Once this seam is complete, there should be 32 rows left
un-seamed on either side. Turn your hood inside out so that the right sides are
facing out again.
How did I get the number of rows to leave unseamed? It’s
(8+8) to account for the small angled part on each side of the front panel,
plus (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then (25-8= 17) to cover the
portion of the top of the back panel not already covered by the cap of the
sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded down to 64 to get an even number when I
halved it – so 32 rows left unseamed on either side of the hood.
The hood then is seamed to the collar of the garment (once
all sleeves and everything have been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a
length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching the points of the hood opening
indicated by the red dots to the beginning of the collar on the front, also
indicated by red dots.
Seam the hood around the collar opening, matching stitch for
stitch.
Front Border and Closures
We’re almost done!Next up is to use four rows of LDC to add a border across the entire front opening, beginning with the hem, working up the opening of the garment, going around the edge of the hood, and working back down the other side of the front opening. After the third row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the buttons.For traditional buttonholes, stop to mark the placement after the second row.
Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of the skirt
border rows.
Ch 3. Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1 LDC in the side of each row across the next wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side of each row across the front panel, waist band, and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each LDC of the skirt border. Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1. Traditional buttonholes mark placement here. Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2. Loop buttonholes mark placement here.
Close-up of LDC border
Marking buttons:
Mark where your buttons will be on one side, and mark an equidistant space on the other side of the border for where you will place your loops or buttonholes. I began with one button/closure on the top and bottom edge of the waist band, then used this measurement (17 sts between each placement) to space the other buttons. I made five button placements total.
Once your button placements have been marked, begin the next row of LDC.
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you reach a
button/closure marker. If you are on the button side, keep working LDC’s. If
you are on the closure side, there are two options: You can chain a couple
stitches and skip over working a couple stitches, which creates a buttonhole within
the band and a tighter closure. I opted to use a loop closure, which leaves the
front a little more open when buttoned.
If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big enough to fit the button through, then slip stitch in the same stitch. Continue working LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain loop at any point where a closure is marked.
If making traditional buttonholes, stop LDC and chain one
before a marked stitch. Skip marked stitch and resume LDC until you reach the
next marked stitch, repeat.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Stopping to chain a loop closure
Traditional buttonholes
After finishing the final border row, use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach each button at the marked location on the opposite side of the closures.
Weave in all of your ends, and you are finished with your Elf Coat! That is, unless I can interest you in a Corset Back Lacing?
Hi friends! In addition to working diligently on the Elf Coat patterns, I’ve been having fun doing some experimentation in one of my favorite project categories, the upcycled crochet pixie belt.
If you don’t already know, you can get a ton of info on how to create original, freeform pixie pocket belts from my blog series, the Pixie Belt Tutorial. The full tutorial is also available in downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF format through my Ravelry store – and I’m using this post as a springboard for a pattern sale too!
Now through Aug. 12, through Ravelry only, you can get the Pixie Belt Tutorial pattern FREE with the purchase of any other pattern! 🙂 Just put both patterns in your cart and the discount is taken at checkout.
I had fun adding new hardware elements to this latest pixie belt piece – a metal mandala centerpiece I’ve had for years that came off of an old thrifted dress forms a focal point on the back, plus two D-rings on either side of the belt which hold a draped scarf really nicely for extra oomph around the hips. The best part is that the silver scarf is totally removable, so you can change out scarves!
There are also two pixie pockets: one circular pouch and one drawstring, as well as a detachable mushroom pouch ❤ The skirting I’m especially proud of – one whole thrifted shirt made from dusky rose gauzy material, artfully ripped of course.
I’m very happy with how this belt came out, especially since I got pretty experimental with it! This encourages me in my other ideas – I’d love to bring in more diverse fiber elements like fabric and leather 🙂
Also it was fun to dress up this one – what do you think of my new background? I dig it!
If you’d like the see more unique, one of a kind pixie belt projects, be sure to check out the Pixie Belt Tutorial blog series!
Good news double whammy! Since the free Basic Bralette pattern continues to top the rankings for most popular posts here, I decided to offer it as a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF also! It’s now available for purchase through my Ravelry Store and my Etsy Shop ❤ Read on for more info!
The new PDF includes both the original Basic Bralette design and the modification for larger busts, the Curvy Bralette tutorial 🙂 AND there’s a super sweet sale going right now where you can get any of my halter top patterns from either Ravelry or Etsy for a whopping HALF OFF! Use the code “SUMMERSALE” now through July 28, 2019.
When dreaming up this design, I had some specific requirements in mind: that it be a simple “base” pattern from which many variations could be made, as well as being easily customized for many sizes, and last but not least – comfortable! After a few experiments, the pattern for the Basic Bralette was born.
I went with in-the-round triangle style cups for both the way they look and the ease of adjusting their size, plus a band through which the cross-back ties thread so that there is no pressure being put on the neck as with traditional bikini-style strap ties.
In addition, I added a bit of strappy flair along the inner cups, because TRENDY. Say hello to your next cute and comfy summer crochet project!
Now, there’s a teeny bit of math involved, fair warning. However, if you are confused about gauge and measurements, I’m here to help – or just wing it, and use the old “hold it up against yourself periodically while you work” method.
This PDF pattern includes written, step-by-step instructions and lots of clear tutorial photos as well as tips for modifying the pattern for different sizes. Both the Basic Bralette pattern and the Curvy Bralette pattern modification are included in the file!
Materials:
3.50 mm hook
#4 weight cotton yarn (although you can make it with any weight yarn / hook size combo as long as you know your gauge!) 1-3 skeins depending on size made
Stitch markers
Scissors & Tapestry Needle
Measuring Tape
Measurements Needed:
Band Size (measured around the rib cage just under the bust): For example, my measurement would be 32”
Measurement A : (Band size “ / 4) – 2” = Length of each side of completed triangle cup ( My example would be [32 / 4] – 2 = 6”). Therefore, my Measurement A = 6″
Measurement B: (Measurement A) / 2 = My Measurement B would be 3”
Size:
The original Basic Bralette pattern can be modified in size to any size that you like, but because of the flatter nature of the cups it really works best for sizes Small – Medium (32A – 34). The pattern ALSO includes the Curvy Bralette Mod, which is a modification for larger busts. This mod uses a border to draw the cups in more, creating a deeper cup for larger busts and works better for C cups and some B cups depending on the shape. I haven’t personally made any cup sizes larger than D in this pattern, though I’m sure it can be done.
Written in US terminology.
Language: ENGLISH
I’m thinking about making more of my original free designs available as purchasable PDF crochet patterns, and also adding some originally purchasable patterns into the free blog pattern mix! Are there any particular designs you’d like to see available in both formats?
❤ ❤ ❤ As always, a huge thank you to everyone who supports my art by purchasing patterns from me! Paid patterns make up the majority of my income for my art and allow me to keep designing crochet both for free and for sale. It’s really what I love best and you all make it possible!
