Sundogs Throw

Recently as I was attempting to cram coax yarn into my shelves while my friend Arika looked on and giggled, I got inspired to do a little stash-busting. Instead of continuing to struggle, I threw out some spare skeins out on the floor and together we crafted an eye-pleasing sequence of colors just for the fun of it, and as I looked on my mental list nudged me. I’ve been meaning to do something like this for a while!

Based on an old motif I made years ago, this circular blanket pattern is worked in #4 weight acrylic yarns changing color every (or nearly every) row. It’s rainbow inspiration is perfect for using up the bright, cheap acrylics that are ubiquitous in my stash thanks to my (welcome) reputation among my friends as a walking Yarn Orphanage πŸ˜‰

Named the Sun Dogs Throw after the optical effects that occur when ice crystals refract light into rainbows around the sun – I imagined this retro, prismatic piece as a tribute to funky love blankies everywhere, the kind that travel with you but always remind you of home. And what better way to show it off than with an impromptu Rainbow Sprite photoshoot with your friends?

(Models clockwise from bottom left – Debbra Lee, Daisey Denson, Kate May, and Arika Harris!)

And so I created a summertime throw for laying under the rays of the sun, or draping across the chair for morning coffee by the fire. It makes a pretty good wearable shawl too πŸ˜‰ I hope you love it! I’ll be taking mine camping as soon as possible ❀

Update!: The Ravelry Page is up for this design so give it a fave if you want to save it for later ❀

Materials

Hook: 6.00 mm

Yarn: Lots of colors in worsted weight acrylics. My estimate ~ 1000 – 1200 yards

Gauge = 6 sts & 3 rows = 2”

Finished measurements: 85” across from crest to crest, 55” across from trough to trough

Notes: Change color after every round or so. Join new color to the first stitch of the round.

Instructions

To begin, make Magic Ring

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc). 11 dc into the ring, join with a sl st into the 1st dc – 12 dc.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc). 1 dc in the same st. 2 dc in each of the next 11 sts. Join with a sl st in 1st dc. – 24 dc

Rnd 3: Sc in the same st as join, ch 4, skip 2 sts (sc in the next st, ch 3, skip 2 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in 1st sc – 8 ch-3 spaces made.

Rnd 4: Sl st into the next ch-3 space. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc 4 more times into the same space, ch 1. (5 dc into the next ch-3 space, ch 1) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in 1st dc. – 8 blocks of 5-dc, 8 ch-1 spaces made.

Rnd 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1st hdc), 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, hdc in the next st, 2 sc in the next ch-1 space. (Hdc in the next st, 1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts, hdc in the next st, 2 sc in the next ch-1 space) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st hdc.

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in the next st. 3 tr in the next st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts. Sc2tog over the next 2 sts. (1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 3 tr in the next st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog over the next 2 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 2 sts. 3 tr in the next st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, skip next sc. (1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts, 3 tr in the next st, 1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts, sk next st) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next st, 1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next st, 1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st into the 1st dc.

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 5 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr)  in the next st, 1 dc in ea of the next 6 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 6 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 6 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 7 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next st. 1 dc in ea of the next 8 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 8 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 8 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as 1 st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 9 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next st. 1 dc in ea of the next 10 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 10 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 10 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 12: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 11 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 12 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 12 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 12 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 13: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 13 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 14 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 14 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 14 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 14: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 15 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 16 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 16 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 16 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 15: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 17 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 16: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 17: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

 Rnd 18: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.  

Rnd 19: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts. Sk next st. Sl st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 20: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 21: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. Sk next st. Sl st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 22: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 23: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 24: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 27 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 27 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 27 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 27 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 25: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 27 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 28 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 28 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 28 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 26: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 29 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 29 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 29 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 29 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 27: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 30 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 30 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 30 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 30 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 28: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 31 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 31 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 31 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 31 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 29: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 32 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 32 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 32 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 32 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join

Rnd 30: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 33 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 33 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 33 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 33 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 31:  Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 34 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 35 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 35 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 35 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 32: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 36 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 37 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 37 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 37 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 33: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 38 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 39 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 39 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 39 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 34: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 40 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 41 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 41 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 41 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 35: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 42 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 43 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 43 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 43 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 36: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 44 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 45 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 45 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 45 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Cut yarn and tie off, weave in all ends.

(they’re about to drop a sick album)

Is it just me or is there something really, really comforting about a handmade, bright, crocheted blanket? I slept under them as a kid all the time – my grandma Metzger’s work – and we used them as blankets to lay on the grass in the summer, and they always smelled like the same closet, the closet upstairs next to my parent’s room, where I was born.

I hope this blanket design becomes like those, when it goes out in the world. The kind you can feel the love in. ❀

-MF

P.S- We all dug in my crochet bin and decorated with other goodies for this photoshoot, so here’s what else we’re wearing!

Me: (Pictured just above) The Valkyrie Top

Daisey Denson: Mehndi Halter Top, Lotus Hooded Duster

Debbra Lee: Embla Vest (sleeved) , Patchwork skirt sewn by me from Wendy Kay’s No Gathers Skirt pattern on Etsy.

Arika Harris: Embla Vest (linked above), and the Sundogs Throw of course πŸ˜‰

Kate May: Embla Vest (linked above) and Basic Bralette

Thanks again to my amazing models for always being willing to dress up crazy, hike out into the mud and rocks, alternately freeze / sweat / get blinded by the sun, and generally have a blast with me πŸ™‚

Amanita Muscaria Mushroom Pouch

Maybe creepy poison fungus seems more like an autumn thing, but there is some argument for the seasonality of the crochet project I have to share today!

It wasn’t meant to be seasonal – I created the Amanita Mushroom Pouch tutorial & free crochet pattern because I had requests to make a pattern for the above older photos from my Jack-O-Lantern and Morel Mushroom pouch blog posts. But since we’re on the subject, here’s an article about the connection of amanitas to winter tradition in Northern Europe and Russia. I’ve read other articles in the past, making wilder and less well-researched claims, which are fun if speculative.

Whether or not you buy that some of our holiday traditions are derived from hallucinating on mushroom toxins, the Amanita Muscaria Mushroom Pouch is a pretty cute little project to make curled up inside on a winter’s day, and look adorable tucked in the branches of the tree ❀

I’ve been making these for a few years and I’m glad to have finally created a pattern for them πŸ™‚ Happily, I have BOTH a written pattern and a video tutorial (see my Youtube Channel or find it at the end of the pattern below)! Huzzah!

Amanita Muscaria Mushroom Pouch

Materials:
4.5 mm Hook
#4 Worsted weight yarn in white and red
Tapestry needle
Scissors

Stem Instructions:
Make Magic Ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea st – 12 sts
Rnd 3: Working in back loop only, 1 sc in ea st around – 12 sts in BLO
Rnd 4: *Sc in the next 2 sc, sc2tog. Rpt around – 9 sts
Rnds 5-6: 1 sc in ea sc.

Rnd 7: Working in the back loop only (BLO), 1 sc in ea sc


Rnd 8: Working in the front loop only left from Rnd 7, *1 hdc and 1 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st. Rpt around.


Rnd 9: Skipping over Rnd 8 and continuing into the sc stitches of Rnd 7, 1 sc in ea sc.
Rnds 10-13: 1 sc in ea sc around

Sl st in the next few sts, do not tie off. Begin crochet chain loop. Chain 100-125. Once chain is complete, slip stitch on the opposite side of the stem from the beginning of the chain. Add a few more slip sts around to secure. Cut yarn and tie off.

Cap Instructions:

With red yarn, make Magic Ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2. 10 hdc into the ring.
Rnd 2: Ch 2. 1 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. *1 hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st. Rpt around


Rnds 3-4: 1 hdc in ea st around.
Rnd 5: 1 sc in ea st around.

Sl st in the next few sts to secure, then cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends on the stem and cap using a tapestry needle and scissors.

With a length of white yarn, thread the tapestry needle. Insert needle from under the cap to the top, leaving some tail for sewing in. The spots are made from working french knots, an embroidery technique that wraps yarn around the embroidery needle before completing the stitch. For instructions on this part, see the video at 17:00.

Video Tutorial

Also, for fun, here’s me in an Amanita Muscaria Mushroom hat, which is made with french knots bespeckling my Sweetheart Beret crochet pattern, a.k.a the Forest Girl Beret ( the antlered version).

Well, that’s all the pictures of yarn mushrooms I’ve got… Just kidding, it isn’t. But that’s all I’m going to cram into this post. I hope you all have a super safe and lovely holiday season ❀

-MF

Curvy Bralette Tutorial

CurvyBraletteCover1

Last summer I designed a simple beginner bralette-style crochet top with the aim of creating a fun basic piece that could be altered easily – the Basic Bralette Tutorial! Since then, it’s been on my list to create some modified versions, especially one that is better for curvier busts πŸ™‚

Update! 7/17/2019: This modification and the pattern for the original are now both available in one downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF! Get more info by clicking here!

DSC_0093

The flattish triangle style cups are great because they can be expanded to any size, but to fit best over bigger chests they need some edging to curve them inward a little – which is what we’re doing today with the Curvy Bralette Tutorial. ❀ ❀

You can find this design linked in the Ravelry database, or on my Pinterest crochet board – so throw me a like or a pin if you enjoy it πŸ™‚

Curvy Bralette Tutorial Pattern

Materials

3.50 mm hook
#4 weight cotton yarn (although you can make it with any weight yarn / hook size combo as long as you know your gauge) 1-3 skeins depending on size made
Stitch markers
Scissors & Tapestry Needle
Measuring Tape

Measurements
Band Size (measured around the rib cage just under the bust): For example, my measurement would be 32”
Measurement A : (Band size β€œ / 4) – 2” = Length of each side of completed triangle cup ( My example would be [32 / 4] – 2 = 6”). Therefore, my Measurement A = 6β€³
Measurement B:  (Measurement A) / 2 = My Measurement B would be 3”

Gauge:

You can have differing gauges for this project, as long as you know what your gauge is in order to achieve the right measurements. Follow the gauge-finding instructions in the Basic Bralette post.

To begin, follow the instructions for the Basic Bralette from the two triangle cups all the way through the Row 3 repeats of the band, then stop – do not tie off.

DSC_0891

Edging:

  1. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch-1), rotate the piece so that you are working into the side of the stitches on the row ends. (Dc into the side of the next st, ch 2, sk next st) 2 times. Dc into the side of the last stitch.
DSC_0892

2. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch-1). Rotate your piece so that you are working into the next un-edged side. Dc in the same stitch, ch-1 to turn the corner.

DSC_0893

3. (Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next st, ch-1) repeat across the row until you reach the corner of the cup.

DSC_0894

4. Sk next 2 sts and the dc on the bottom row of the cup. Dc into the top of the first unworked dc on the side of the cup, as shown. Ch 1. (Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next st, ch-1) along the side of the cup.

5. (Dc, ch 1) 2 times in the top corner of the cup, in the ch-2 space. Depending on how many dc’s you have in each side of the cup, you might want to place a dc, ch-1 in the stitches right before and after this space. Since this is where the ties will go, it isn’t good for it to be too tight.

DSC_0896

6. (Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next st, ch 1) along the next side of the cup. A few stitches before the end, skip to the next cup, making sure there are an equal amount of skipped stitches on either side so it is mirrored. The more you skip, the tighter the cups will be, so you can customize based on your size.

DSC_0898
DSC_0899
DSC_0900

7. Repeat the same process over the other cup’s 2 sides, mirroring the first half: Work 2 (dc, ch 1) repeats in the other cup’s top corner, (dc, ch 1, sk 2 sts) down the side skipping the same amount of stitches at the corner, then across the top of the band. Dc, ch 2, dc in the same stitch at the corner. (Ch 2, sk next st, dc in the side of the next dc) across the row ends at the side of the band. Dc in the last dc -I added an extra dc in this stitch too to make it more even with the bottom band.)

DSC_0901

8. Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch-1). Turn, (dc in the next ch space, ch-1) across the last row of edging until you reach the corner. (Dc, ch 1) 3 times in the corner space.

9. (Dc in the next space, ch 1) all across the last row of edging in the bralette, placing (dc, ch 1) repeats at the top corners of the cups. I left the top corners free, because I used t-shirt yarn ties for this one, but if you’re crocheting your ties, add them on by chaining the length you want, then slip stitching back down the chain to return to the top corner of the cup. The Ties need to be long enough to cross over the back, and criss-cross the openings on the band sides to adjust it:

DSC_0097
BraletteModA2

10. To make it strappy: after chaining your strap (or not), chain Anchor your yarn with a dc in the first stitch of the next cup side. Count the amount of stitches left in the side of the cup – I have 8 repeats of (dc, ch 1) so altogether that’s 16 stitches. Chain your number, then skip the cup side and single crochet in the center ch-1 space. Chain the same number again, then skip to the last dc of the next side of the cup, dc in that stitch.

Repeat the edging across the rest of the bralette, mirroring the first side, all the way to across the band side, then cut yarn and tie off.  Weave in all your ends, then rock on!

BraletteModA1

-MF

Basic Bralette Tutorial

DSC_0083

When dreaming up this little design, I had some specific requirements in mind: that it be a simple “base” pattern from which many variations could be made, as well as being easily customized for many sizes, and last but not least – comfortable! After a few experiments, the pattern for the Basic Bralette was born.

UpDaTe! 7/17/2019: This pattern is now also available in a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF format! Click here to read all about it πŸ™‚

DSC_0093.JPG

I went with in-the-round triangle style cups for both the way they look and the ease of adjusting their size, plus a band through which the cross-back ties thread so that there is no pressure being put on the neck as with traditional bikini-style strap ties.

DSC_0059.JPG

BB1

DSC_0096.JPG

Cross back ties are totally my jam now – check out the recently released Plus Size Mehndi Halter for more proof! In addition, I added a bit of strappy flair along the inner cups, because TRENDY. Say hello to your next cute and comfy summer crochet project!

DSC_0069.JPG

Now, there’s a teeny bit of math involved, fair warning. However, if you are confused about gauge and measurements, I’m here to help – or just wing it, and use the old “hold it up against yourself periodically while you work” method. πŸ™‚

DSC_0104.JPG

By the way, that awesome macrame necklace I am wearing is from Selinofos Art on Etsy – you should check them out!

This design is also listed on Ravelry, so if you like it, throw a girl a favorite on the project page!

BBcover1

Basic Bralette Tutorial Pattern

3.50 mm hook
#4 weight cotton yarn (although you can make it with any weight yarn / hook size combo as long as you know your gauge!) 1-3 skeins depending on size made
Stitch markers
Scissors & Tapestry Needle
Measuring Tape

Measurements
Band Size (measured around the rib cage just under the bust): For example, my measurement would be 32”
Measurement A : (Band size β€œ / 4) – 2” = Length of each side of completed triangle cup ( My example would be [32 / 4] – 2 = 6”). Therefore, my Measurement A = 6″
Measurement B: Β (Measurement A) / 2 = My Measurement B would be 3”

Note that the sample in the pictures doesn’t use the same measurements as my example math above.

If you have a curvier bust, good news! I have added a modification for this design – the Curvy Bralette Tutorial. ❀

Update 4/11/20: If you are looking for a deeper cup design for larger busts, you may want to check out the new Basic Bikini Cup Tutorial!

The Basic Bralette can be modified in size to any size that you like, but because of the flatter nature of the cups it really works best for sizes Small – Medium (32A – 34B). The Curvier version uses a border to draw the cups in more, creating a deeper cup for larger busts and works better for C cups and some B cups depending on the shape. I haven’t made any cup sizes larger than D in this pattern.

Gauge:

You can have differing gauges for this project, as long as you know what your gauge is in order to achieve the right measurements.

My gauge with the given hook and yarn is:
9 sts & 4 rows = 2” in dc

To find your gauge, crochet a square of double crochet stitches about 15-20 sts long and about 6 rows tall.

DSC_0050

Use a measuring tape to find out how many dc sts per inch/es in your gauge swatch.

DSC_0051

Measure vertically to find out how many rows per inch/es in your gauge swatch. My swatch has 9 sts in every 2 inches (measured by 2 inches because we don’t want to have 4.5 sts per inch because it’s not a whole number) and 4 rows for every 2 inches, so my gauge is 9 sts and 4 rows = 2″ in dc.

Instructions:

Triangle Cups (Make 2)

Make Magic Ring to begin.

DSC_0852.JPG

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), (3 dc into the ring, ch 2) 3 times. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 9 dc

DSC_0853.JPG

DSC_0854.JPG

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 1 dc into the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 3 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) repeat within parentheses twice. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 21 dc

DSC_0855.JPG

DSC_0856.JPG

DSC_0858

Rnd 3: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 7 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 33 dc

DSC_0859.JPG

Rnd 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 6 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 11 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 45 dc

Continue working in pattern until the sides of your triangle each match yourΒ Measurement A. Remember that this piece will stretch, so you may want your sides to be just a little under this measurement to account for that.Β 

It’s also a good idea to grab the 3 corners of your triangle and stretch them out evenly as you are working, so you get a better idea of how your length is progressing!

I made this sample piece around 8”, and so wrote out the following rounds I used to get that measurement in my gauge – but you can work as many or as few rounds in pattern as you need.

Rnd 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 8 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 15 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 6 dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 57 dc

Rnd 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 10 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 19 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 8 dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 69 dc

After finishing the first triangle, cut yarn and tie off. Complete a second triangle, butΒ  leave yarn attached when finished.

DSC_0861.JPG

Arrange the two triangles (which we will now refer to as cups) with RS facing, your hook positioned on top, so that the two flat sides with the joins are facing β€œup”. Take a locking stitch marker and run it through each chain st on the corner where the two cups meet.

DSC_0935

DSC_0936.JPG

DSC_0937.JPG

DSC_0938.JPG

These two ch sts will be worked together as one stitch, now referred to as the middle point. Now, count the number of dc stitches between where your hook is positioned to the middle point, counting neither the joined stitch nor the middle point stitch – I have 12 in the sample.

DSC_0939.JPG

Take a second marker, count out the same number of stitches on the opposite cup away from the middle point, then mark the next st (so you have a section between the middle point and the marked stitch equal to the section on the other side).

DSC_0941.JPG

From the point where your hook is positioned, you will work 1/3 the amount of stitches (between your hook and the middle point) in sc, 1/3 in hdc, 1/3 dc for the first section – in the example this is 4 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc. If 1/3rd of your number is not a whole number, round down and add the extra stitches into the dc total. So, if you have 14 stitches in this section, you’d do 4 sc, 4 hdc, 6 dc (4 dc + 2 extra = 6).

DSC_0946.JPG

Next, 1 dc into the middle stitch, working your stitch through both ch stitches at once. In the next section, work the same quantities of stitches, except mirrored – in the example this is 4 dc, 4 hdc, 4 sc. Sl st in the next stitch (with the marker). Cut yarn and tie off. Remove all markers.

DSC_0947.JPG

DSC_0948

Band:

For the band, we will add the length of stitches equal to Measurement B on either side. The Measurement B for this sample is 4”, so since my gauge is 9 sts = 2”, I will need to add 18 stitches to either side of the cups.

Row 1: Ch length of stitches needed to equal Measurement B (18 here). Dc in the 2nd ch in the corner of the cup, RS facing. Dc in ea st across to the next ch st on opposite corner, ch number same number of stitches as beginning.

DSC_0949

DSC_0950

DSC_0953

Row 2: Ch 2, turn and work 1 dc in the 4th ch from the hook (first 3 ch sts count as first dc). 1 dc in ea st across.

DSC_0955

DSC_0956

Row 3: Ch 3, turn (counts as first dc). 1 dc in ea st across.

Rpt Row 3 until the band is the width that you’d like, and totals an even number of rows. Β (I did 6 total rows of dc). Do not tie off.

The next part works around the entire top to create eyelets in the back and add the straps.Β 

Round 4:Β  Rotate the piece so that you are ready to work into the row ends of the band. Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch1). (Dc, ch 1) in the side of each dc at the row ends, across the side of the band. In the last row, work 1 dc into the very edge of the stitch, skip the chain 1.

DSC_0959.JPG

DSC_0960.JPG

Rotate the piece,Β  beginning to work across the top of the band. Ch 1, hdc in the side of the dc of the eyelet row. 1 hdc in ea stitch across, stopping one st before the Row 1 dc at the bottom of the cups. Skip this stitch, the dc, and the chain space at the corner of the cup, 1 hdc in the next dc on the side of the cup (For larger cups or for tighter coverage, you may want to skip a few extra stitches to keep the cup edges tight – I skipped about 5 total stitches on mine). 1 hdc in ea dc toward the top of the cup. 1 hdc, 1 dc in the next chain space.

DSC_0962

DSC_0963

DSC_0966

Skipping one st before the corner, the chain stitch on the corner, and one stitch after.

DSC_0061.JPG

Skipping 2 sts before the corner, the chain stitch corner, and two sts after.

DSC_0967

Strap: Ch 200 – 300 (depending on bust size – each strap will go over the shoulder, cross the back, and then criss-cross back and forth. You may want to cross more or less, like a certain level of tightness, etc – so there is no solid rule about how many to chain here. My default is to chain more than I need, then undo part of the chain later once I’ve tried the top on and know how long I need the chain to actually be). Cut yarn and tie off.

DSC_0971

Rejoin yarn 6 chain stitches away from the top of the cup. Slip stitch in ea of the next 4 sts toward the top of the cup, stopping before the last ch st. Ch 1. 1 dc, 1 hdc in the chain space. 1 hdc in the next dc.

DSC_0972

DSC_0975

DSC_0976

Chain a number of stitches until you have just enough length to get the end of the chain to the middle of the two cups – typically equal to the amount of stitches you are about to skip (depending on gauge). Skip working the rest of the cup and sc in the stitch in the middle.

Note that the chain length pictured in the image directly below is too loose! I made it longer so that it would be more visible in the photograph. It should sit tightly along the edge of the cup once secured at the middle point, as pictured in the second image below.

DSC_0978.JPG

DSC_0980

Repeat length of chain, skip side of next cup, 1 hdc in the dc right before the chain space. You will want your chains here to be fairly tight, to avoid floppy straps. Now is a good time to practice the “holding it up to yourself as you work” method, since each bust is different.

DSC_0981.JPG

1 hdc in the next ch space, 1 dc in the same space. Work a second chain strap equal in length to the first. Cut yarn, tie off, and rejoin 6 sts away from the last dc. Slip stitch in the next 4 sts, ch 1, 1 dc in the same ch space, 1 hdc in the same space.

DSC_0983.JPG

1 hdc in ea dc down the side of the cup. Sk next chain corner, dc, and first st at the top of the band (or as many as you skipped on the opposite side). 1 hdc in ea st across to the corner.

DSC_0984

Rotate piece, ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch-1). (Dc, ch 1) in ea dc at the ends of the rows of the band. In the last st, 1 dc at the very edge, sk chain.

DSC_0985

DSC_0986

Rotate piece to begin working across the bottom of the band again. Ch 1, 1 hdc in the side of the last dc worked for eyelet row. 1 hdc in ea st across the bottom of the band, stopping at the ch-3 that counts as the first dc for the eyelet row. 1 sc in the next st, sl st in the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

DSC_0987

DSC_0988

DSC_0990

Weave in all ends, except for the ends of the chain straps.

Now, put on the top and cross the chain straps at the back as shown. You can criss-cross string the straps through all the eyelets, or just some of them – though the more criss-crossing you do, the harder it is to adjust the straps to the right tightness of fit by yourself. So, I normally only cross them a couple times (see the images of the red bralette below)Β  πŸ™‚Β  Whichever way you decide, you can then see how much strap length you actually need.

DSC_0097.JPG

DSC_0014

DSC_0015

DSC_0016

Pick out the tie-off you made, and rip out the extra chain stitches until your straps are the length that you need. Tie off again and cut off the extra yarn.

DSC_0017

DSC_0019

DSC_0021

I used my extra yarn to make little tassels, which is both cute and helps hide the yarn tail at the end of the chain so that I don’t have to weave it in πŸ™‚ Voila! Your Basic Bralette is born.

DSC_0070

DSC_0067

DSC_0088

DSC_0109

I plan on doing some variations on this design in the future! Armed with a ton of colorful cotton yarn, this quick and easy project should be fun to mess around with some more – and I’ll try to share what I come up with of course ❀

-MF

BBcover2