Steampunk Ruffled Wristers

Lately I’ve been wanting to bring another easy, funky, and FREE pattern to the blog -Here’s a pair of sassy ruffled cuffs with a steampunk mien, because if you don’t love a good corset and goggle combination I don’t know what to tell you. About life.

You can also get this free pattern in PDF form via Ravelry!


Steampunk Ruffled Wristers

3.50 hk

1 skein Vicki Howell Cotton-ish (#3, 70g, 282yds, color shown is “Coffee Filter”)

1 skein ruffle yarn such as Willow Yarns Aura

8 round buttons about 1.5 cm in diameter. I used La Mode style #26296.

Gauge: 5 sts = 1″ in alternating rows of fpdc/bpdc

Notes: Ch 2 at the beginning of each round does not count as the first stitch. Be careful not to catch the beginning chains when working the post stitches into the stitch right next to them, as you will utilize them later.

Ch 20.

Row 1: Sc in the 1st ch and in ea of the next 19 ch stitches.

Row 2: Ch 2, turn. BPDC in the last sc from Row 1 and in ea of the next 19 sts.

Row 3: Ch 2, turn. FPDC in the same st and in ea of the next 19 sts.

Row 4: Ch 2, turn. BPDC in the same st and in ea of the next 19 sts.

Row 5: Rpt Row 3.

Row 6: Rpt Row 4.

Rows 7-22: Make 8 more complete repeats of rows 3 and 4.

Row 23 (button loop row): Ch 4, turn. Sk next st, sc in the next st and in the next 3 sts. (Ch 4, sk 2 sts, sc in ea of the next 4 sts) twice. Ch 4, sk 2 sts, sl st into the side of the turning chain at the end of the row.

You will now be working into the turning chains at the ends of the rows (they will only be at the end of every other row) for the rounds that complete the ruffled portion of the cuffs.

A quick ruffle yarn tutorial:

All you need to do to work with ruffle yarn is to hold the strand at the WS of the work, then insert your hook through one of the tabs located at the top at the same time as you are inserting your hook through the next stitch or chain space. Next, draw your main yarn through as you normally would for the stitch. It can be done at any point where you would insert your hook and draw up a loop, just make sure you don’t draw up a loop of the ribbon yarn along with your main yarn.


With the FPDC side of the work facing, insert hook into the ch-2 space formed by the side of the beginning chain. Insert hook through the tab space at the top of the ruffle yarn, then yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw through 2 lps on the hook. This completes a sc stitch with ruffle.

Round 1: Work 4 sc with ruffle stitches into the side of each ch-2 turning chain – each sc stitch should catch a separate tab of the top of the ruffle yarn for maximum frillyness.  Join in the round by slip stitching to the first sc of the round. Slip stitch in the next st also.

Round 2 (do not catch ruffle yarn this round) : (Ch 4, sk 3 sts, sc in the next st) 10 times. Ch 2, hdc in the base of the first chain-4 of the last round. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-4 sized space to begin the next ruffle round.

Round 3: Sc with ruffle twice in the same space. (4 sc with ruffle in the next space) 10 times. 2 Sc with ruffle in the next space. Join with a sl st.

Round 4: Rpt Rnd 2.

Rnd 5: Rpt Rnd 3.

Rnd 6: Rpt Rnd 2

Rnd 7: Rpt Rnd 3.

Rnd 8: Ch 1. Sc in ea sc around. Join with a sl stitch to the ch 1 at the beginning of the round. Cut yarn and tie off. Cut ribbon yarn, leaving at least one whole tab space uncut.


We will now work one round on the outside of the cuff, at the bottom of the ruffles. With the ruffled side out, join yarn at the base of the ruffles into the side of the last post double in a row BETWEEN the rows that end in a Ch-2 turning chain. 4 sc into the side of this stitch. (4 sc into the side of the next end post double)10 times. Whenever you reach the space where the two ends of the wrist piece are joined with a stitch, treat that stitch like the same as a row-end stitch and sc 4 into the side.


You will end up with 11 sets of 4 sc. It may be arduous trying to work these stitches around the ruffle yarn and other single crochet sets, but it does polish off the cuff well to make it look neat and tidy. Cut yarn and tie off.

Finally, test the cuff on your wrist and mark where you want to place your buttons based on how tightly you want the cuff to fit. Use a length of yarn or thread to sew on the buttons tightly.


Weave in all ends to finish, using your yarn tails to catch the tab at the cut ends of the ruffle yarn and tuck it down as you weave to hide it. Give the ruffles some gentle tugging when you are all done to even them out and make sure they are flared outward, to fix any compaction that might have happened during stitching.





Hedge Witch Ruana Coat


I find that when making things in different colors, my ideas and feelings on the design often change slightly or even completely transform.

Such was the case with this project, a variation on my pattern for the Woodsman’s Wife Ruana. I was excited to make the pattern with the Herb Garden colorway because I love the woodsy tones, but when I was finished I felt that it needed a bit more. Here’s my notes on how I modified this piece to make a robe-style sweater coat!

The original pattern can be found in my Ravelry store or my Etsy Shop. Hope you like!


Hedge Witch Ruana Mod

(You will need one more skein than what the pattern calls for to make this mod)

The following are the shorthand instructions for seaming up the sides of the Woodsman’s Wife Ruana to close it into a coat. After seaming, a few simple rows are added around the holes left open at the top to make shortish 3/4 sleeves – because who needs long sleeves trailing around and getting in your potions?

Seaming the sides: For this coat, I followed the main pattern instructions all the way through without deviation. After I was finished with the main pattern, I aligned the front and back so that they were even, then counted 16 stitches down the side from the top of the fold (on the hooded end).

On the 17th stitch, insert hook through BOTH layers of stitching (the front and the back) and attach a new yarn. Flip the garment inside out (so the seam is on the inside of the garment) Slip Stitch loosely 20 stitches down the side through both layers of the coat toward the bottom – you should still have some of the bottom sides left unseamed. Cut yarn and tie off, then repeat on the other side.

Making the Sleeves: attach new yarn at the 16th stitch from the top fold (working only one layer, RS facing) and work the following sequence around the 32-stitch edge “hole” left open before the seam:
1: (4 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc, 8 tr, 4 dc, 4 hdc, 4 sc) join with a sl st to the first sc.
2: Rpt 1
3: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around.
4: Rpt 3.

Cut yarn and tie off, repeat for the opposite sleeve.

I thought this ruana was cuddly in it’s original form, but dang! This ruana coat style is basically a portable hug from the most comforting person in the world (possibly David Attenborough).


Deer Hat Pattern Makeover

I love free patterns – they are a fantastic and fun way to share crochet knowledge and enjoy they endless variety that is the product of so many people’s creativity and expertise. However, there are many advantages to paid patterns from a dependable pattern seller – and of course I am going to tell you about at least one of them, because I’m a paid pattern seller!

One of these advantages is that you are paying the designer not only for the time they spent to write the pattern, but for the time they WILL spend in the future answering questions and improving anything that needs it. One of my patterns, the Deer Hat, needed a makeover and that’s what it got.  The new version is now available on Etsy and Ravelry for 5.50 USD!


In addition to snappier photographs, I’ve also reviewed and re-worked the pattern, making some minor changes to improve the general shaping of the main hat and antlers. The new photos were taken with the pattern model of the latest version, using the new recommended yarn and shaping.

Though the recommended yarn for this pattern is now listed as Big Twist Value Solids, the previously listed yarns are still good choices. All the important bottom-line stuff, such as hooks, gauge, and yardage, remain the same.

This pattern has also been re-formatted to the two-column page layout to make for easier reading on smartphones and mobile devices.

Hooks: 5.00mm, 4.50 mm
Yarn: 2 skeins Big Twist Value Solids from JoAnn Fabrics (#4 weight, 6 oz, 374 yds – 1 skein “Chocolate, 1 skein “Cream”)
Other: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors, small amount of polyester fiberfill or other stuffing for the antlers

Written in US crochet terminology


I hope everyone enjoys the new look!


Yarn deer is my spirit animal.




Mandala Tops are coming…

I’ve been all over the place lately, both in my crochet escapades and also in my schoolwork – but not, unfortunately, geographically. This time last year I was enjoying the bright sun of New Mexico and looking forward to the Orlando trip in March, but this year it’s all homework and cabin fever. But a girl can dream!


I’ve started obsessively making my Mandala Tops again, imagining outdoor gatherings and warm nights and drumming with friends. This one’s a sweet neutral take on the design, for a western-inspired festival style. I’ve started to add 2-3 more rows to the bottom, because I’m enjoying the extra “oomph” it adds to make a more girly, A-line shape.


I know, that belt is awesome.

The pattern (which includes 4 different sizes) can be purchased in my Etsy Shop or through Ravelry. You get all 4 sizes in one pattern for only 5.50 USD (but my Facebook followers know of a special deal going on currently, hint hint). But enough about me… check out this killer Mandala Top made by Raveler hyleoroii (shared with permission of course).


Love that mirrored photo! I’m also really mega proud that one of my personal real-life heroes wore one of my Mandala Top creations to her Art Gallery showing last fall:


A bit blurry, but you can see Lisa’s mosaic window in the background. She does stunning mosaic work, beautiful tie-dye and patchwork, and even made her own coloring book from her lovely nature-spirituality inspired drawings. What a woman!