Teddy Bear Onesie

The craze for animal-themed full-body pyjamas here in America has mostly passed my wardrobe by, but I have to admit that when I saw a fuzzy, teddy bear version with shorts and a hood while online shopping I thought it would look awefully cute.

The problem was that the product was on one of those cheap knockoff websites, you know, the same kind that steal images from independent artists like me and use the picture to sell terrible swill. So even if I could order a product that would actually fit my body (I checked the measurements chart – I couldn’t) I probably wouldn’t receive anything I’d actually want to wear.

So I thought to myself, as I very often do: “I could probably crochet that.”

And the next time I was in the Bad Yarn Buying Place, lo and behold I did find the absolute perfect yarn to imitate the garment I wanted. I decided to create what I wanted for me, and then document the process and offer it as a free tutorial here! Crappy companies steal from me and make money, so I’m stealing from crappy companies and giving back to you. And hopefully making some money. πŸ˜‰ (Speaking of which, have you seen my new Tip Jar?)

I intend to create a more comprehensive pattern for this in the future, with more detailed stitch counts and size options, but for now a description of my math and a photo tutorial with written instructions for the size I made (small) should get you started! If you make it I’d love to see – I have a Facebook Group for sharing crochet projects and we’d love to have you!

Keep scrolling for the FREE tutorial! If you want to save it for later, give it a fave on the Ravelry Pattern Page.

Materials & Notes:

Red Heart Hygge Fur (#5 Bulky, 7 oz/200 g, 260 yds – color shown is “Smokey) – 6 skeins
6.00 mm crochet hook
Buttons – I used 5/8ths inch buttons but next time I would choose inch buttons as they ended up being a little small
Ribbon or tie for the waist (optional) – I used an acyrlic mesh ribbon yarn
Scissors & tapestry needle
Measuring tape (comes in handy)

Gauge: 6 sts & 4 rows = 2″ (I measured gauge carefully but all other measurements given for schematics, fit, etc are approximated with measuring tape with the garment laid flat πŸ™‚ )

Notes: As mentioned in my demo video (link below), this pattern utilizes a yarn that makes the stitches very hard to see – so I recommend keeping good note of your stitch counts and rows! I didn’t always exactly do that, but the good news is, it’s also really easy to fudge it on this project πŸ˜›

If you’re customizing your own size working from my tutorial, you may want to keep the Craft Yarn Council Standard Sizes page handy πŸ™‚

Video Demo for working this yarn can be found here on my YouTube Channel.

Stitches Used:
Ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
bpdc – back post double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together – also known as a decrease (dec)
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
MR – magic ring

Instructions

Shorts

To begin, Ch 85. Join in the first ch of the round with a slip stitch to form a ring.

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first dc.) 1 hdc in every stitch. Join with a slip stitch in the first hdc of the round. – 85 sts.

Rows 2 – 20: Rpt Row 1.

Cut yarn and tie off. You’ll have a 10″ long tube, about 28″-30″ in circumference. This is most of the shorts. Next, we’ll add a small flat panel to the bottom to define the crotch and leg area.

Panel

Ch 7.

Row 1: 1 hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook. 1 hdc in ea of the next 5 ch sts. – 6 hdc.

Rows 2-10: Ch 1 (does not count). 1 hdc in every stitch. – 6 sts.

Cut yarn and tie off. Position the insert in the middle of the shorts, with one short edge against the edge on one side, and the opposite sides match the same way in the middle on the other side. Sew on the panel after checking there is an even amount of stitches left open on either side of the panel, for the legs.

I had 37 sts left free on either side for mine. I had 85 sts total for the waist, so minus the 6 sts on either side (12 total) I would have 73 remaining total. 73 / 2 = 36.5, but I’m fudging and saying 37 for simplicity’s sake. Things are fuzzy enough that 1/2 stitch estimate isn’t going to matter πŸ˜‰

Pictured above: shorts laid flat after panel is added. Also you can see my reflection.

Once the insert is placed, each leg hole will have rows added to lengthen the bottom of the shorts.

Shorts – Legs instructions
Row 1: Hdc in each hdc around, placing decreases at the corners were the insert meets the upper shorts. 1 hdc in the side of each row of the insert when working across.

Rows 2-4: 1 hdc in ea stitch around. I ended up with 42 stitches, I think I placed a couple extra decreases. Check the fit to find the right amount for you πŸ™‚

Once the rows for each leg are added, cut yarn and tie off. Shorts portion complete!

Upper Body

Belt Rib:

Locate the center stitch of the front portion of the shorts (this could be either side at this point – the shorts are identical front to back). You can do this by counting, measuring, counting up from the center of the insert, whatever. I eyeballed it carefully. We are now going to work 3 rows of post double crochets (you can find a tutorial for Post Stitches here on my blog if you don’t know how), to add some texture and a belt-loop placement for the hips.

Join new yarn at this center stitch on the top edge, working into Row 1 of the shorts. Ch 2 – does not count as first double crochet.

Row 1: 1 FPDC in the same stitch. 1 BPDC in the next st. (1 FPDC, 1 BPDC) around. Join with a slip stitch in the first st. – 85 sts

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count). 1 FPDC in the next FPDC, 1 BPDC in the next BPDC. – 85 sts

Row 3: Rpt Row 2.

Do not tie off. For the next portion of the body, we continue working but stop joining the rounds at the end – instead we will be working back and forth in rows. This creates a front opening for the garment.

Pictured above: Post stitch rib rounds completed, with the first few rows of back- and – forth hdc added.

Torso

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in every stitch. – 85 sts

Next, mark 1 point at each side of the torso – the place that falls at either hip. We will decrease at each of these points over the next two rows.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in ea st around until reaching the marked stitch. 1 hdc2tog (dec) over the marked stitch and the next st – place marker. 1 hdc in ea st around until reaching the 2nd marker. 1 hdc2tog (dec) over the marked st and the next st – place marker. 1 hdc in ea of the remaining sts – 83 sts.

Row 3: Repeat Row 2 – 81 sts.

Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in ea st around.

Rows 5- 20: Rpt Row 4.

Top Panels – Front

Now that biggest part of the upper body is build onto the shorts, we’ll fit the shoulder area. This will depend a little on how big you need your armholes – larger arms will need to leave a few more stitches unworked and/or make the panels slightly longer.

First, take two stitch markers and find the middle of each side of the garment (find by counting back from the split). Mark these two stitches as references.

For size small, I’m marking out a section 4-5 stitches inward from the front split on either side, and 4-5 sts inward from the side marker at either side. For my size the front panels will be 12 sts or ~4″ in width. Mark where you want your panels. Attach yarn at any of the markers.

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count) 1 hdc in the same stitch. 1 hdc in ea stitch across. – 12 sts.

Rows 2-15: Rpt Row 1.

Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat on the other side of the front, counting 4-5 stitches inward of the front split in the opposite direction.

Pictured above: Both 12-stitch long front panels completed. You can also see the completed back panel behind those, which we are about to tackle…

Top Panel – Back

For the back top panel, count again 4-5 stitches inward from the marked stitch on either side and place a marker for this area. Mine was 35 stitches in width, about 11.5-12″.

Row 1: Attach yarn at marked area. Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea stitch across. – 35 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 hdc in ea st across. – 35 sts.

Rows 3-15: Rpt Row 2.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Pictured above: Back top panel, complete

Sleeves

Match the top edges of the front and back panels so that the outer edges of the front panels are aligned with the outer edges of the back panel.

With a yarn and tapestry needle, sew a seam across the top edges, matching each stitch together, with a whip stitch. Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for other shoulder seam.

Pictured above: Shoulders with seams marked

With the stitch markers, mark where the seam you just sewed is located on either side.

Round 1: Attach yarn at the bottom of the sleeve, in the center of the unworked spaces at the armpit. Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea of the next sts around the entire sleeve, moving the marked stitch’s marker to the stitch above it as you work.

Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea of the next sts around until reaching the marked stitch at the shoulder. 1 hdc2together over the marked stitch and the next st – move marker to stitch just made. 1 hdc in ea of the remaining sts. Join with a sl st in the first hdc of the round. – 36 sts.

Pictured Above & below: First three rounds with marker moved

Rnd 3: Rpt Rnd 2. – 35 sts.

Rnds 4 -32: Ch 1 (does not count). 1 hdc in every st around. Join with a sl st. – 35 sts.

Rnd 33: Ch 2 (does not count as first double crochet). 1 FPDC in the same st. 1 BPDC in the next st. (1 FPDC, 1 BPDC) around. Sk last st if your total sts are not an even number ( this also makes a good thumbhole if your sleeves are long enough). – 34 sts.

Rnds 34-35: Repeat round 33.

Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for other side’s sleeve.

Hood

Row 1: Ch 21. Hdc in the 2rd ch from the hook and in ea of the next 17 ch sts. 2 hdc in the next ch st. 2 hdc in the last ch st. Rotate the chain to begin working in the bottom loop of the foundation chain stitches. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in the next 18 sts made by the opposite side of the foundation chain. – 42 sts

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in same st. 1 hdc in the next 17 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next st. 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 19 sts. – 45 sts

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 18 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 19 sts. – 48 sts

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 18 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 20 sts. – 51 sts


Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 19 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 20 sts. – 54 sts

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 19 sts. 2 hdc in the next st.(1 hdc in the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 21 sts. – 57 sts


Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 20 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 6 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 21 sts. – 60 sts


Row 8: Ch 1, turn, 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 20 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 22 sts. – 63 sts


Row 9: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 21 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 22 sts. – 66 sts


Row 10: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 21 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 23 sts – fig 57. – 69 sts

Pictured above: Hood to row 10
Pictured above: Hood, folded long the middle seam.

From here, the following rows work no increases to form the length of the pocket of the hood.

Rows 11-25: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in ea st across. – 69 sts

Row 26: Ch 2, turn (does not count as first dc). 1 FPDC in the first st, 1 BPDC in the next st. (1 FPDC, 1 BPDC) across. Sk last st if number is odd to provide even repeats.

Rows 27-28: Ch 2, turn. 1 BPDC in ea BPDC, 1 FPDC in ea FPDC across.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Ears / Tail (Make 3)

This piece is worked circularly in the round, then flattened to make one double-sided half circle shape which serves as both the ears and the tail. Make 3 total.

Round 1:Make magic ring – 6 sc into the ring. Join with a sl st in the first sc.

Round 2: Ch 1, does not count as first sc. 2 sc in ea sc around. Join with a sl st – 12 sc.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in the first st. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) rpt 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 18 sc.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the next st. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 24 sc

Rnd 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in ea st around. -24 sc.

Rnds 6-9 or 10: Rpt Rnd 5.

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Assembly:

Attach new yarn to the corner of the front opening of the onesie, so that you are working down the side of the hdc rows toward the bottom middle of the split . 1 sc in the side of each row of hdc, skipping the last – 19 hdc.

Rotate and begin to single crochet up the side of the rows on the opposite of the opening, stopping at the opposite corner. This is your button band – I sewed my buttons onto this row. I didn’t use buttonholes, opting instead to use the natural openings between stitches – if you follow my lead, you’ll need slightly bigger buttons πŸ˜› But it works okay. You can also place button openings by skipping stitches and replacing them with chains.

With the buttonhole band complete, you’ll continue working across the collar. Before continuing, find the central foundation chain of the hood and attach it via locking stitch marker to the center of the collar (found by counting out).

From here, I slip stitched the hood onto the collar by inserting my hook into both layers at once, matching one stitch per row end on the hood.

You’ll likely have to slip stitch over a few stitches before you reach the point where you begin the hood seam. It’s also perfectly acceptable to cut your yarn, tie off, and just sew your hood seam using yarn and tapestry needle – I just prefer the sl st method because the seam is sturdier.

Once the hood is complete, try on the garment if possible to fit the ears and tail where you like them, using stitch markers as a guide on where to sew. Whip stitch the edges of flattened half circles together and sew on.

With my yarn and needle, I sewed on a long and frankly overpopulated line of buttons onto one side of the opening. As mentioned earlier, my buttons are a little small to be using the stitch holes, but whatever.

Lastly, after I had woven in all the ends, I strung a length of mesh ribbon yarn through the post stitch belt loops as a tie. This garment is pretty heavy when all assembled so the belt helps keep it all stabilized.

And with that, voila! You or someone you love is now a Teddy Bear.

This piece could EASILY be any of its components as a stand-alone – i.e, just the hood with ears, or just the upper portion to make a hoodie, etc. I don’t think I could pull off just the shorts portion personally but someone might wanna try πŸ˜‰

As I mentioned earlier I do intend on creating a fully formatted pattern with sizes and exact stitch counts at some point – until then, enjoy and let me know what you think! ❀

You know, I was almost a little embarrassed to post these pictures. I don’t know if anyone would guess, but it’s a pretty big challenge for me to put myself out there like I do all the time here. So why do I do it? Because some inner force compels me to make weird stuff and share it.

Life is short. Wear whatever the F$%# you want.

-MF

P.S – I had to work really hard not to make a Quarenstain Bears joke in the main text.

Amanita Muscaria Mushroom Pouch

Maybe creepy poison fungus seems more like an autumn thing, but there is some argument for the seasonality of the crochet project I have to share today!

It wasn’t meant to be seasonal – I created the Amanita Mushroom Pouch tutorial & free crochet pattern because I had requests to make a pattern for the above older photos from my Jack-O-Lantern and Morel Mushroom pouch blog posts. But since we’re on the subject, here’s an article about the connection of amanitas to winter tradition in Northern Europe and Russia. I’ve read other articles in the past, making wilder and less well-researched claims, which are fun if speculative.

Whether or not you buy that some of our holiday traditions are derived from hallucinating on mushroom toxins, the Amanita Muscaria Mushroom Pouch is a pretty cute little project to make curled up inside on a winter’s day, and look adorable tucked in the branches of the tree ❀

I’ve been making these for a few years and I’m glad to have finally created a pattern for them πŸ™‚ Happily, I have BOTH a written pattern and a video tutorial (see my Youtube Channel or find it at the end of the pattern below)! Huzzah!

Amanita Muscaria Mushroom Pouch

Materials:
4.5 mm Hook
#4 Worsted weight yarn in white and red
Tapestry needle
Scissors

Stem Instructions:
Make Magic Ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea st – 12 sts
Rnd 3: Working in back loop only, 1 sc in ea st around – 12 sts in BLO
Rnd 4: *Sc in the next 2 sc, sc2tog. Rpt around – 9 sts
Rnds 5-6: 1 sc in ea sc.

Rnd 7: Working in the back loop only (BLO), 1 sc in ea sc


Rnd 8: Working in the front loop only left from Rnd 7, *1 hdc and 1 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st. Rpt around.


Rnd 9: Skipping over Rnd 8 and continuing into the sc stitches of Rnd 7, 1 sc in ea sc.
Rnds 10-13: 1 sc in ea sc around

Sl st in the next few sts, do not tie off. Begin crochet chain loop. Chain 100-125. Once chain is complete, slip stitch on the opposite side of the stem from the beginning of the chain. Add a few more slip sts around to secure. Cut yarn and tie off.

Cap Instructions:

With red yarn, make Magic Ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2. 10 hdc into the ring.
Rnd 2: Ch 2. 1 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. *1 hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st. Rpt around


Rnds 3-4: 1 hdc in ea st around.
Rnd 5: 1 sc in ea st around.

Sl st in the next few sts to secure, then cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends on the stem and cap using a tapestry needle and scissors.

With a length of white yarn, thread the tapestry needle. Insert needle from under the cap to the top, leaving some tail for sewing in. The spots are made from working french knots, an embroidery technique that wraps yarn around the embroidery needle before completing the stitch. For instructions on this part, see the video at 17:00.

Video Tutorial

Also, for fun, here’s me in an Amanita Muscaria Mushroom hat, which is made with french knots bespeckling my Sweetheart Beret crochet pattern, a.k.a the Forest Girl Beret ( the antlered version).

Well, that’s all the pictures of yarn mushrooms I’ve got… Just kidding, it isn’t. But that’s all I’m going to cram into this post. I hope you all have a super safe and lovely holiday season ❀

-MF

Rhiannon Cowl Crochet Pattern

RHC3

Eons ago (it seems) I designed a hooded cowl that was both simply constructed and could be worn several different ways. It started as just a scrap-buster, and I made a couple with random yarns and colors. The result was a fun project that was easy enough for beginner crocheters but was more interesting than just a plain old scarf. I dubbed it the Rhiannon Cowl after one of my favorite mythological deities.

HarvestSpirit3

And yeah, after the song too. Although I’m enough of a fantasy nerd that I knew about the goddess before I knew about the pop song.  But I digress.

RHC1

That was 2015. It didn’t take long before my pattern writing style changed, and I started rebooting some of my older files – the Rhiannon Cowl has been on the makeover list for a LONG time, partly because I have intended to make it available for free.

Today I’m excited to finally be both making over the pattern file AND releasing this crochet pattern here for free on my blog! Keep reading for the FULL pattern PLUS tutorial photos, or get the spiffy new downloadable, ad-free file now available in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store πŸ™‚ 

RHC12

I’ve made a couple changes to the pattern itself – I eliminated the #5 bulky weight instructions in favor of adding a new size: Large. This size is easier to wear doubled up (the Small can be a little tight that way) and will be wearable as a vest for a wider range of bodies.

I also got rid of the specific yarn requirements. I’ve always thought this pattern looks best as a scrap-buster and so I’ve left the yarn requirements general to reflect that – I used *mostly* worsted weight but some bulky weight sneaked in too and I think it looks great that way πŸ™‚

RHC10

I hope you like this fun, quick, fantasy inspired project as much as I do (now that its been gussied up) ❀

RHCCover1.1

Materials:
5.00 mm hook
500-800 yds worsted weight yarn – spare yarns work great for this piece!
Scissors
Tapestry Needle

Gauge: 6 sts and 3 rows = 2”

Finished Measurements:
Small- Approx. 72” circumference at the front
                ~ 40” circumference at the back
                ~ 15” wide
Large- Approx. 90” circumference at the front
                ~ 50” circumference at the back
                ~15” wide

DSC_0079

Stitches and Abbreviations:

st / sts: stitch/stitches

DCh: double chain – see my tutorial here:
                http://bit.ly/33nFcYe

If preferred, a regular chain stitch may be substituted for the double chain

ch: chain.

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

tr: treble crochet

sk: skip

rpt: repeat

rnd: round

ea: each

(parentheses): instructions inside parentheses are to be repeated the number of times indicated just outside the parentheses. When parentheses are followed by β€œaround” it means repeat the instructions until you finish the entire round.

beg: beginning. Refers to the first stitch or set of stitches made for the current row or round, i.e – β€œbeg ch-4” refers to the 4 chain stitches made at the beginning of the round you are working.

counts as / does not count as… : The first chain stitches at the beginning of the round are to gain height to start your round. Because this chain sequence is the same height as the stitches, it occasionally counts as the first stitch of the round and will be the stitch to which you join the end of your round.  If this chain does not count as the first stitch, you will skip it completely and join the end of your round to the next stitch after the chain stitches.

Size Changes: This pattern is written for two sizes: Small and Large. The instructions are written so that whenever there are two different instructions (a size change) those changes appear concurrently separated by a comma. Smalls follow the first number given, Larges follow the second number. So in β€œ(1 dc into each of the next 9 sts, 2 dc into the next st) 15, 19 times.” Β Smalls will repeat within parentheses 15 times, Larges will repeat 19 times.

Instructions:

Foundation:  DCh 160, 200. Join with a slip stitch to the first DCh stitch to form a loop. Be careful not to twist.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st as join. 1 dc  in ea of the next 159, 199 sts. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round.  – 160, 200 sts

Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 79, 99 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 3: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc into the same st as join. 1 dc into each of the next 159, 199 Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round.

Rnd 4: Rpt Rnd 2.

Rnd 5: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc , dc into the same st as join. 1 Dc into each of the next 8 stitches, 2 dc into the next st. (1 dc into each of the next 9 sts, 2 dc into the next st) 15, 19 times. Join with a slip st in the first dc of the round. – 176, 220 sts

Rnd 6: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 87, 109 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 7: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc into the same st as join. 1 dc into each of the next 175, 219 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. –  176, 220 sts

Rnd 8: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 87, 109 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 9: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st as join. 1 dc into ea of the next 9 sts, 2 dc in the next st. (1 dc into ea of the next 10 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 15, 19 times. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. – 192, 240 sts

Rnd 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 95, 119 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 11: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. 1 dc in each of the next 191, 239 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. – 192, 240 sts

Rnd  12: Rpt Rnd 10.

Rnd 13: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 dc in the next st. (1 dc into ea of the next 11 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 15, 19 times. – 208, 260 sts

Rnd 14: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 103, 129 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 15: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. Work 1 dc in ea of the next 207, 259 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round.

Rnd 16: Rpt Rnd 14. Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Hood

Fold in the piece in half, aligning the fold along the joining seam. Join new yarn at this corner – you will be crocheting into two layers of the scarf at once. MAKE SURE you are crocheting into the foundation round, NOT round 16. 

Rnd 17: (Work 1 sl st into the next st, working into both layers) 25 times. Ch 3.

Now working in only ONE layer and inserting hook into the bottom of each foundation chain stitch, (sk next st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 52, 72 times. Sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, ch 1. Join with the first ch-1 of the round.

The circle of stitches worked through one layer only will form the base of the next round – you will no longer be working into the 26 stitch seam that forms the back of the hood.

Rnd 18: Ch 3, dc in the same st and in ea st around.  sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Leaf Motif Tie

1st Leaf: Ch 5. Join with a sl st to form a ring. Ch 3 – counts as first dc, 6 dc, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, 7 dc into the ring. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

To begin the double chain, insert hook into one loop of the stitch below the slip stitch join and work one sc. Insert hook into the side bar of the single crochet. Draw up a loop (2 lps on hook). Yarn over and draw through two loops on the hook (one DCh stitch completed).  Double chain 160, 200.

2nd Leaf. – At the end of the double chain, Ch 5. Join with a sl stitch to the 5th ch from the hook to form a ring. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 6 dc, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, 7 dc into the ring. Join with a sl st to the first dc, then secure the top of the leaf onto the DCh cord with another slip stitch. Cut yarn and tie off.

Weave in all yarn ends!

Starting at the base of the hood, weave half of the tie in and out of the spaces between the dc stitches of Rnd 17. Weave the other half through the spaces of the opposite side. Ta-da! Your brand new cowl awaits your woodland adventures!

Wear it as a hood with the drawstring tied to form a warm capelet scarf – hood down, it becomes a shawl! Place the hood on from the back and place arms through the back opening to wear as a scarf vest, or double up the scarf loop around the neck for extra toastiness.

My style might change, but I still make all the same faces when I photograph myself πŸ˜› Cheers!

-MF

Hedge Witch Hat Pattern

Sounds trendy to talk about how much you love Halloween these days, but like, I really love Halloween guys. No trend shame here. That’s why despite the myriad and awesome crochet witch hat patterns out there, I had to design my own. I wanted a certain look and after a few tries, I really like what I came up with!

UPDATE 5/28/20 – I have added a second variation to this hat – there are now instructions for both Type A (appearing first – a bit taller and pointier) and Type B (appearing below Type A instructions, a little shorter and curvier). I’ve also added a purchasable, downloadable, ad-free PDF for this pattern in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store! ❀ thank you!

This free crochet pattern works with worsted weight yarn in half double stitches, and utilizes the Switchback Join technique to keep the seam straight, which you can find in this free tutorial on my blog!

Please excuse the fact that I had way too much fun creating a vintage witch photoshoot πŸ˜‰

Hedge Witch Hat

Show Above: Type A

Materials:
3.75 mm hk
#4 weight yarn – Approximately 200-250 yds

Gauge: 4 sts & 3 rows – 1” in hdc

Finished measurements: ~ 25β€³ on the inside, 36β€³ brim on the outside, 9-10β€³ height

Types: A (Pointier, black & dark gray versions), B (Rounder, light gray and tan versions)

(Show above: Type B. Also wearing the Embla Vest!
Show above: Type B

Stitches (sts) & Abbreviations
half-double crochet (hdc)
slip stitch (sl st)
chain (ch)
back loop only (BLO)
round (rnd)
each (ea)

Special Techniques & Notes:

The Switchback Join

 This pattern uses a special join to keep the seam straight. This technique uses a system of backward and forward positioning, marked at the beginning of each row. The end of each backward row is joined by slip stitching forward by one stitch in a special way, as shown in my free tutorial which can be accessed here:
https://moralefiber.blog/2019/10/02/switchback-join-tutorial/
Each row is marked in the written pattern to help keep track. This join must be used if you want the curves of the hat positioned correctly. If you want a knobbly chaos witch hat, feel free to skip!

Notes: All tutorial images appear after the written instructions they are depicting

Instructions, Type A:

Rnd 1 (back): hdc 8 into magic ring. Join with a sl st

Rnd 2 (forward): 1 hdc in ea st. Join with a slip st to first hdc of the rnd. – 8 sts

Rnd 3 (back):  Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 12 sts

Rnd 4 (forward): Ch1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in the next st. 2 hdc in the next st.  (1 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 16 sts

Rnd 5 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times.  Join with a sl st.  β€“ 20 sts

Rnd 6 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 3 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 24 sts

Rnd 7 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts

Rnd 8 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts

Rnd 9 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 36 sts

The first 6 increases
Hdc in the next 12 sts
Increase in the last 6 sts

Rnd 10 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts

Rnd 11 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts

Rnd 12 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 8 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 18 sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 54 sts

The curve of the hat will be offset from concentrating the increases on one side

Rnd 13 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts

Rnd 14 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts

Rnd 15 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts

Rnd 16 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts

Rnd 17 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts

Rnd 18 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts

Rnd 19 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts

Rnd 20 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts

Rnd 21 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts

Rnd 22 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts

Rnd 23 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts

Rnd 24 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 25 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 26 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 27 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 28 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st.  – 90 sts

Rnd 29 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 3 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. (1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts. 2 hdc in the next st) twice.  (1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.  β€“ 104 sts

The curve of the hat is offset again by concentrating the increases on 2/3rds of the hat

Rnd 30 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. – 112 sts

Rnd 31 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 120 sts

Rnd 32 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 128 sts

Rnd 33 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1  hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 136 sts

Rnd 34 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts.  2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. – 144 sts

Rnd 35 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 136 sts Rnd 36: Sl st in ea st around.

Weave in all ends to finish. I used some spare chenille yarn and a larger hook to double chain a thin hat band. These hats would be really cute with extras like felted leaves or buttons – I may have to make some more!

Instructions: Type B

Rnd 1 (back): Ch 1. Hdc 8 into magic ring. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.

Rnd 2 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st. Join with a slip st to first hdc of the rnd. – 8 sts

Rnd 3 (back):  Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.  β€“ 12 sts

Rnd 4 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 16 sts

Rnd 5 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts.  Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.  β€“ 20 sts

Rnd 6 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 24 sts

Rnd 7 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sls t in the BLO of the next st.  β€“ 24 sts

Rnd 8 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 36 sts

Rnd 9 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 36 sts

Rnd 10 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 8 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 18 sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 54 sts

Rnd 11 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 54 sts

Rnd 12 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts

Rnd 13 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 60 sts

Rnd 14 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts

Rnd 15 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 66 sts

Rnd 16 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts

Rnd 17 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 72 sts

Rnd 18 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts

Rnd 19 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 78 sts

Rnd 20 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts

Rnd 21 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 84 sts

Rnd 22 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 23 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 90 sts

Rnd 24 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 25 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 90 sts

Rnd 26 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st.  – 90 sts

Rnd 27 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 90 sts

Rnd 28 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st.

Resume pattern at Round 29 for Type A and complete the instructions from there onward.

For more Halloween themed crochet patterns and tutorials, check out these:

Crochet Pumpkin tutorial
Jack-O-Lantern Mushroom crochet pattern
Candy Corn Baby Hat

And of course, I have tons more free patterns available – if you would like to check them out, visit my Free Pattern page!

❀ MF

Scrappy Knit Duster

A few years ago I espied some beautiful images of knit ruana-style shawls and ponchos that used striking color striping in a simple stitch pattern. The knit stitches were loosely made, giving the garment a pretty drape, and the simple tie-offs from color changing formed a natural fringe with a western look. The artist using this beautiful style, I found out later, was the Kristen Hoke of Posh By Gosh on Etsy.

I was enamored, for many reasons: its beauty came from its simplicity and versatility. It featured only knit stitches, so I could easily wrap my head around it. Plus, ample opportunity to play with color and use up spare bits of yarn! I rushed to gather all of my spare skeins and yarn bits, and started a massive upcycling project inspired by her knits – that was my first try, which became a blanket because as it turns out I was not very good at estimating knit sizes at the time.

No worries, though – I tried again, this time turning my inspiration into a project with a crochet twist! The knit ruana, featuring crocheted granny square edges, became the Wayfarer Ruana tutorial, available for free here on my blog!

By then, I was pretty satisfied but I also found myself addicted. These projects were so easy to pick up and put down (because of the endless mindless knitting, it was definitely stitch therapy) and they were so perfect for using up very small bits of yarn. I wanted to design another garment in this style! This time, with even less weaving in of ends. And how about wearable anywhere?

And more SASSY FRINGE?

So I got to work knitting up this Scrap Knit Duster, and put together a little tutorial for it along the way. The two front panels are great for using up very small balls of leftover yarn, especially singe there isn’t any weaving in ends (or at least, very little)!

And that’s not even a fraction of the yarn gumballs I have stowed away.

Since the garment is just made of rectangles folded and seamed, adventurous souls could easily translate this into a crochet piece (just keep your gauge loose so that the fabric drapes well).

Hope you love making it as much as I do ❀ If you do, why not give this project a fave on Ravelry?

Materials:

US Size 11 (8.00 mm) Knitting Needles, 1 set 24” circular (long straight needles are fine in substitute for this), 1 set 40” circular (necessary)

A lot of random scrap yarn ❀ I chose one neutral toned yarn to kind of become the β€œbackground” for the colored yarns, as well as a trim color.

Tape Measure

Scissors

Tapestry Needle

6” book, cardboard, or fringe making tool

Gauge: About 6 sts & 8 rows = 2” in garter stitch
Stitches Required: Cast On, Knit, Purl, Bind Off

Finished measurements: 38” long, bust and waist measurements variable

Instructions:

Begin by taking your measurements. You want the total circumference of the garment to be about as wide as the widest part of your frame (whether that’s your bust, your hips, or your belly) so that it will just be able to wrap you up. I used 34” as my circumference. It’s a little under my actual measurements, but I wanted my duster to be fitted to me, and I know this knit fabric stretches accommodatingly.

The main part of the duster is made with three panels. The two front panels, which are made to equal almost 1/4th  the circumference each, so half my measurement when added together. The one back panel is made to equal the other half, and is added after the first two panels are finished (this part is the same basic process as the Wayfarer Ruana, just not as wide).

However, I know I’m going to be adding a trim to the front, so my two front panels will be made a little shorter. 1/4th of 34” is 8.5”, but I’ll plan on adding almost 2” in border, so 6.5” or so. I decide that my front panels are going to be 20 stitches long each, which when plugged into my gauge, will land me at about 6.5” for each front panel width.

If you want a less fitted piece, just stick with the simple math – Each Front Panel is ΒΌ your circumference, and don’t worry about the trim length for now.

  1. Cast On 20 (or whatever number you land on)
  2. Rows 1-150: Knit each stitch. Change color at the end of the row when necessary or desired….

BUT….

ONLY change colors on one side of the piece. Either side is fine, but stick with one side. This is the side that will face β€œout” later, and form the fringe hem at the sides, saving you from having to weave in a bunch of ends.

Make 150 rows of garter stitch for the first front panel, DO NOT BIND OFF.

  • Stick your first panel on a holding needle and repeat this process for the second panel.
  • Once both of your panels are complete,  arrange your panels so that the tie-off fringe sides are facing away from each other. Using yarn and your long needles (circular or otherwise), begin to knit across the top of the first panel, starting on the fringe side. Once you knit across the first panel, CO 10 stitches for the collar of the garment. Then, continue knitting across the second panel, ending on the second fringed side.

These 50 stitches (20 for the first panel + 10 for the collar + 20 for the second panel) come out to about 16.5”. 16.5 + (6.5 + 6.5) = 29.5”. Add the (2” + 2”) on either side for the front color trim, and I will have my 34” circumference achieved.

But first…

  • Knit 150 rows for the back panel. Change colors at the end of the row whenever necessary or desired. Colors can be tied off on either side of the back panel.

Once you’ve finished the front and back panels, Cast off your piece. I like to use Jenny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off (JSSBO), a video tutorial for which can be found here.

Sleeves

Fold your piece in half. Using your tape measure, measure from the top of your shoulder to the lowest part of your armpit. Double this number is how wide you need your sleeve to be – I got about 9”.

We will form the sleeve by picking up one flat row, centered on the same row as the collar is made. Picking up knit stitches from the side of garter stitch is tricky because we are only picking up ONE stitch per each TWO rows. So to get a 9” measurement, I need 28 stitches. (28 sts / 6 stitches per 2 inches = 4.6, or  9.3” inches.)

So beginning from the bottom of each panel, I count up from the hem 122 rows and place a stitch marker. This leaves 28 rows left on the front panel. Repeat count up 122 rows on the back panel (same side) and place a stitch marker.  Pick up 28 knit stitches in the side of these 56 rows that land in between your marked stitches, using your needles.

  • Knit 70 rows, changing color at the end of the row when necessary or desired.
  • Using your preferred border color, switch to working a 4 x 4 rib. Knit 4, Purl 4 and in in subsequent round, knit the knits and purl the purls. Work 5 rounds.

You can change your rib width based on what number your sleeve stitch count is divisible by – for instance, 28 is divisible by 4 so my ribs will be even. If you have 35, you can work a 5 x 5 rib instead, etc.

  • BO, preferably with a stretchy bind-off method as mentioned above.
  • Repeat same sleeve process on the opposite side.

Fold the entire garment along the middle line that runs through the center of the sleeves and the collar. It helps to lay it flat on the floor, so you can brush the fringe out flat. In this next part, we will use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to seam the duster.

  1. Grab a long-ish length of yarn and thread through the tapestry needle. A simple whip stitch through both layers of edges is all that is needed to seam the garment up the side. Keep seaming from the bottom all the way to the sleeve end, starting a new seam if you run out of yarn.  Repeat for the opposite side.

To keep your tension even, pull the seam thread tight by stretching the garment out as you sew. Be careful to keep the tie-off fringe out of your seam.

Front Border

Once you have seamed up the side of the duster and through to the end of the sleeves on both sides, clip your thread and tie the ends off to blend them into the fringe (some you may want to weave in, such as the ends at the hem of the sleeves). Now it’s time to create the ribbed border around the front opening and collar.

  1. Using your 40” circular needles and your border colored yarn, Pick up 1 knit stitch from every 2 garter stitch rows along the inside border of the garment. If your panels are 150 rows long, you’ll work 75 stitches up one side, 10 into the collar, and 75 down the other side. 
  2. K 4, P 4 to create a 4×4 rib. Work 9 rows of rib by knitting the knits and purling the purls. BO using the JSSBO.

Almost there! Are you excited yet?

Extra Fringe

Now we’ve got a really rockin’ fringey thing going on, but the tie-offs look a little scraggly in my opinion, so I use my 6” book to create some fringe lengths by wrapping the yarn around then cutting through the bundle. You’ll have to lay out your piece flat again, and comb all the tie-off fringe out flat to prepare for the next step.

  1. Using a crochet hook, loop one strand of fringe in the side of every fringe-less row up the side of the body and sleeves. Repeat for the other side.
  2. Finally, weave in any stray ends that aren’t part of the fringe. Odds are you will have a few across the shoulders where the sleeve attaches – I wove those down into the seam for the most part.

Once you have all the extra fringe attached, arrange your duster so that the sleeve and the side of the body are laying long the same line, parallel. Comb all the fringe, including the tie off, so that it is laying mostly flat. Using a sharp scissors, give your baby a haircut – I went down to about 4″ for the fringe.

If you have any stray yarn ends that need woven in (such as scraps that ran out in the middle of a row, or border yarns from adding the trim), take care of those. Once you have, you are done!

Voila! Now you have a scrappy bohemian rock’n’roll knit duster that is warm and wearable, looks great with anything, and that you MADE YOURSELF πŸ˜€ !!!

Thanks for visiting my blog and making art with me – I think this may be one of my favorite things I’ve ever made! I say that a lot though πŸ˜›

It was certainly fun to photograph. I hiked up a VERY steep hill, camera gear in tow, in order to prance around in heels on the edge of a cliff. Who says knitting isn’t extreme??

-MF

Morel Mushroom Pouch

Here in the Midwest the hunt is on for morel mushrooms, the prized wild fungus often referred to as the “steak” of mushrooms. It’s been a great spring for them, with my friends and coworkers reporting big scores – so morels have definitely been on my brain lately. I’ve been making these cute crochet versions, with secret pouches in the stem, for many years now and after seeing so many morels this season I decided to come up with a quick tutorial!

MorelBag5

These cuties are great for storing things like chapstick, pocket money, lighters, or other trinkets inside the hollow stem. They also make great gifts for the woodland mushroom lover ❀

MorelBag4

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This project is done in freeform crochet style, meaning that I add random increases, decreases, height changes (from single crochet to half-double or double), and bobbles to make the texture gnarly and womply like a real morel. Here in the tutorial I’ll give the basic structure of the pattern and you can freestyle all the rest!

MorelCover

Morel Mushroom Pouch

Materials:

3.75 mm crochet hook
20-50 yds #4 worsted weight yarn in two colors
Scissors and tapestry needle

Stem Instructions:

Begin by making a Magic Ring.

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1. 6 single crochet into the ring. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc of the round, pull the ring closed using the yarn tail at the beginning.

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2. 2 sc in each stitch around the circle. Join with a sl st.

If you want a slightly wider stem to fit larger objects, you can repeat Rnd 2.

3. Working in the front loop only (FLO), work one stitch in each stitch around. Here you can start to get funky, with random increases, decreases, height changes, etc. This will be with foot of the stem. Join with a slip stitch in the back loop of the first stitch of the round.

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4. Working in the free back loops of Rnd 2, crochet around. Place freeform stitching around, using bobbles, inc, dec, etc to create texture for your stem.

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Keep the basic stitch count more or less the same and you continue to crochet around. Crochet in the round for as many rows as you like, until your stem is as tall as you want – but remember that the cap will cover some of the stem, so don’t make it too short! I worked 11 rounds, and the finished product is a little stumpy when the cap is pulled all the way down.

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5. Finish the stem by adding the chain loop that the mushroom will hang from – chain 100 or more, then slip stitch on the opposite side of the stem opening. Cut yarn and tie off.

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Cap Instructions:

With your darker color, make a magic ring. 6 single crochet into the ring, then pull the ring a little tighter – but not all the way shut, since you will have to fit the chain through later.

1. (Sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Do not join, but keep working in the round.

2. Using mixed stitches (sc, hdc, dc, clusters, bobbles, etc) – (crochet in the next 2 sts, 2 crochet in the next st) around

3. Using mixed stitches (crochet in the next 3 sts, 2 crochet in the next st) around

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4. Work as many rounds in this manner as you like until your cap is the size you want. Cut yarn and tie off.

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With the lighter colored yarn, join to the surface of the cap by inserting the hook as shown. To make the cap textured, you will work single and half-double crochets just on the surface of the cap by inserting the hook from front to back, then back to front, keeping the yarn held on the front.

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Work stitches on the surface only, changing direction and zig-zagging back and forth. Work from bottom to top, then back down, then back up, etc. Once the entire cap is covered, cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

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Using your hook, pull the chain loop of the stem through the hole in the top of the cap. Slide the cap downΒ  to cover any treasures you can now stow inside!

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I’ve made lots of mushroom pouches, in different varieties including amanitas and jack-o-lanterns. The jack-o-lanterns are particularly cute using glow in the dark yarn – and I have a free crochet tutorial for those too!

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-MF

Vintage Derby Pattern

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I’ve always loved the bowler, a.k.a derby hat, and I think this cute but classy style looks great with anything! So I was inspired to create a crochet version, with a vintage-y feel and body stiff enough to maintain the classic bowler shape. The Vintage Derby pattern is the result, a pretty simple crochet pattern suitable for beginners but with some textural tweaks – this pattern uses waistcoat stitch crochet, a.k.a knit stitch, and yarn held double.

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I chose the waistcoat/knit stitch because I wanted the surface of the hat smoother than regular single crochet could do, and because I thought it added to that vintage look I was going for. It’s really a simple stitch to learn and I recommend this tutorial for learning waistcoat stitch from Crafternoon Treats.

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For the yarn held double, simply crochet as you would, but with two strands of yarn instead of one – this makes the body nice and thick, which helps hold the shape of the hat.

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If you like this cute springtime accessory as much as I did, consider giving the project page a like on Ravelry!

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Vintage Derby

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Materials:
Yarn: Deborah Norville Everyday (#4 weight, 113g / 203 yds 100% Anti-Pill Acrylic), 2 skeins in “Chinchilla”
50 yds contrasting yarn for the band
5.00 mm hook
Scissors and Tapestry needle

Gauge: 3 sts and 4 rows = 1″ in waistcoat stitch (ws)

Finished measurements: 24″ around (inner brim), 6.5″ height, 1.5″ wide brim

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Notes: Working the waistcoat stitch with double worsted yarn and a 5 hook was not easy at first! I had to consciously adjust my tension so that I was not single crocheting as tight as I normally would. If you are having trouble drawing up loops from the stitch below (through the post area) you will want to adjust your tension to be more loose.

Instructions:

With yarn held double, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: 5 sc into the ring. Do not join – begin to work in the round, placing marker in the first stitch of every rnd. – 5 sts

Rnd 2: 2 ws in ea of the next 5 sc sts. – 10 sts

Rnd 3: *1 ws in the next st, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 15 sts

Rnd 4: *1 ws in the next 2 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 20 sts

Rnd 5: *1 ws in the next 3 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 25 sts

Rnd 6: *1 ws in the next 4 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 30 sts

Rnd 7: *1 ws in the next 5 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 35 sts

Rnd 8: *1 ws in the next 6 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 40 sts

Rnd 9: *1 ws in the next 7 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 45 sts

Rnd 10: *1 ws in the next 8 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 50 sts

Rnd 11: *1 ws in the next 9 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 55 sts

Rnd 12: *1 ws in the next 10 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 60 sts

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Rnd 13:Β *1 ws in the next 11 sts,Β  2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 65 sts

Rnd 14: 1 ws in each st around. – 65 sts

Rnd 15: *1 ws in the next 12 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 70 sts

Rnd 16: Rpt Rnd 14

Rnd 17: *1 ws in the next 13 sts. 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 75 sts

Rnds 18 – 30: 1 ws in each st around – 75 sts

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Rnd 31: *1 ws in the next 14 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 80 sts

Rnd 32: *1 ws in the next 15 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 85 sts

Rnd 33: *1 ws in the next 16 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 90 sts

Rnd 34: *1 ws in the next 17 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 95 sts

Rnd 35: *1 ws in the next 18 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 100 sts

Rnd 36: *1 ws in the next 19 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 105 sts

Rnds 37 – 42: 1 ws in ea st around. – 105 sts

Slip stitch a few extra stitches at the end of the last round. Cut yarn and tie off.

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Reverse the hat and reattach the yarn, held double, on the last rowΒ  on the opposite side. Slip stitch in each stitch around on the inside of the brim – this helps neaten the brim and keep it sturdy. Cut yarn and tie off again when finished.

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Weave in all ends using the tapestry needle.

Hat Band:

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Using the 5.00 mm hook and the contrasting yarn held double, ch 75.

Rnd 1: Join chain in a ring, being careful not to twist the chain. Sc in each ch stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to the first st of the round.- 75 sts

Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does not count as first st). Ws in the first st. 1 ws in each st around. Join with a sl st. – 75 sts

Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 2. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Weave in the spare end, then thread the tapestry needle with the long end and use it to sew the band onto the hat. If you would rather not attach the band, it should stay pretty secure anyway – your call!

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It was fun dreaming up a vintagey look to match the hat – but next time I will do the photoshoot BEFORE I dig out a bunch of plants from a garden bed in the hot sun, lol!

 

This little pattern was so much fun, I was reminded of how much I love making hats! I do have a DOOZY cooked up as an idea for the future, but I haven’t put hook to yarn on that yet – stick around and see more by following my blog or following my Facebook page!

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If you like funky hats, you should check out my FREE horned monstrosity, the Krampus Hat Pattern.

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If vintage and steampunk-y is your style, maybe you’d like some Ruffled Wrister gloves to match your hat? That one’s also free!

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❀ – MF

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PBT: Cell Phone Pocket

This post is part of a series of tutorials on how to create your own unique crochet pixie pocket belt – to read more about this series visit theΒ Intro page.

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I often like to leave my technology behind when I go wandering in the forest, but hey, sometime’s a pixie’s gotta stay connected. That’s why I named this special pocket style the Cell Phone pocket, because it’s the perfect addition to a crochet utility belt that needs room for a phone!

Of course, this in-the-round style rectangular pouch is just really fun and simple to make on its own, so no tech required if you prefer to stow other treasures inside πŸ™‚

Cell Phone Pocket

3.75 mm Hook
Ch 12 (or the length you think will fit your phone, plus a little extra – you don’t want it too tight)
1. Hdc in 3rd ch from the hook and in ea st down the chain. 3 hdc in the final ch st. Rotate the piece, then hdc in each ch stitch (inserting hk into bottom loop). Work 2 hdc in the final ch st. Join with a slip stitch

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2. Ch 2 (does not count as first hdc) hdc in ea hdc, across, working 3 hdc in the central hdc of the 3-hdc turn at the end. Hdc across again, work 3 hdc in the central stitch of the previous 3-hdc turn at the end. Join with a sl st

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Check to see if this will comfortably fit your phone. If not, add another round with increases at both ends. If it’s lookin’ good, just work rounds evenly without increases.

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Don’t look at how dirty my phone is.

3. Hdc even for as many rounds as necessary.

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I did about 13, then added a roomy loop so that it can secure my phone by catching on a button which I planned to add to the front. Pretty sweet right? Weave in all your ends, then stash this baby with the rest of your pockets until you’re ready to add them on!

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I hope you enjoyed this little bonus round of the Pixie Belt Tutorial! I loved making this belt especially because THIS one’s for me πŸ˜‰ I’ve never made myself one before so I thought it was high time ❀

-MF

 

PBT: One Piece Circular Pocket

This post is part of a series of tutorials on how to create your own unique crochet pixie pocket belt – to read more about this series visit theΒ Intro page.

One Piece Circular Pocket

Most of the crochet utility belts I make have circle pockets – I love their potential as a canvas for other shapes like mandalas, simple embroidery, or shell flower petals. Plus, I’m just really into circles.

While I’ve created a tutorial for circle pockets that utilize two flat circle shapes sewn together, I often prefer to create them in a single piece – this tutorial shows how!

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Begin by working a colorful, non-continuous circle as shown in this section of the tutorial series.Β Shown here is my version for the belt I’ve been working on, “Dogwood”.

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As you can see, I’ve got some crazy stuff going on in there, including some overlay stitches and textural bobbles, plus a resin cabochon that I appliqued on with a crochet cover. But the basic structure is the same, using regular increases to make a flat circle and going up to 60 or so stitches, which means following in pattern until you Inc on 10 (see Circle Pockets Part 1 for more on creating flat circles).

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Once I reach my desired size, I prepare to shape the circle. To do this, I’m going to add a few rows of sc even in the round, meaning I’ll just crochet around the circle without adding any increases or working any joins. This will add depth to your circle so that the pocket is rounded and not flat. BUT, you have to keep in mind you’ll need an opening in your pocket, so at some point you’ll chain a number (I think I did around 13-15) and skip the same number of stitches before continuing to crochet.

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On the next round, single crochet right over the chain as normal. Now you have the opening worked out, so you will work a few more rounds of sc even, then begin to decrease at the same rate that you increased in the front.

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If you plan on adding a button fastening, don’t forget to crochet either a loop or a buttonhole into one of the rounds behind the opening on the back of your pocket! I almost forgot, which is why my loop is larger and set further back πŸ˜‰

Since my pocket went up to “Inc on 10” I’ll start shaping the back of my pocket by decreasing on 10, using the same counting strategy as the increases:

Dec on 10 (or count out 9 stitches, then use the 10th and 11th sts to work a sc decrease)
Dec on 9 (count out 8 sts, use the 9th and 10th sts to dec)
Dec on 8 (etc…)

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The back of the circle pocket will start to close up. When you can’t decrease anymore, you’ll need to cut a long yarn tail and tie off your stitches. Thread the yarn tail on a tapestry needle and secure the closing circle by stitching through it back and forth a few times.

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Weave in all your ends, and sew on a button or fastening, beads, or anything you like!

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Hope you enjoyed this little bonus edition of the Pixie Belt Tutorial – keep sending me pictures because I love seeing what you make! Hit me up on my Facebook page:
Morale Fiber on Facebook

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-MF

 

Elf Coat Pattern: Medium

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I am very excited to have finally finished my Elf Coat size medium! I rolled out the pattern early, and then worked my butt off so that I could add all the fancy costume photos! I was also working on the Elf Coat size Large, which I am happy to say is now available, also for free, here on my blog!

There is also a purchaseable PDF pattern, which includes all three sizes and the corset back lacing tutorial, available in my Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop!

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I hope you love this Medium size Elf Coat and pretty please tag me on Facebook, Instagram, etc @MoraleFiber so I can see what amazing things you are making ❀ ❀ Also we have a great Facebook Group, growing every day, dedicated to magical crochet of all sorts!

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Elf Coat Instructions

The Medium is based on an 11-panel skirt, made from 5 pointed panels and 6 simple panels.

Finished Measurements (approximate):
Waist: ~38β€³
Bust: ~38β€³
Hip: ~40β€³
Sleeve: 22β€³ (measured armpit to hem)
Length: ~37β€³

Notes on yarn: I chose to work this size in Red Heart Unforgettable, instead of the DK weight King Cole Riot. I had already started two panels in this yarn, and I was curious to see how it would work up in both color and sizing. Since I haven’t completed the piece yet, I’m not sure how many skeins will be required for this size, so I have estimated.

Materials

6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook
Red Heart Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – at least 16 skeins (?)
Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”

Techniques Used:

Chain (ch)
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) – stitch used for each coat piece. Tutorial can be found on my blog here
TKS Increase (TKS inc): Increasing in Tunisian Knit Stitch – see TKS tutorial
TKS Decrease (TKS dec): Decreasing in Tunisian Knit stitch – see TKS tutorial
Linked Double Crochet (LDC): Creating a row of double crochet that are linked in the middle. Tutorial can be found on my blog here.
Slip Stitch (Sl st): Used selectively for seaming
Whip Stitch: Sewing stitch made with a tapestry needle with yarn as thread, used for seaming.

Technique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful crochet technique and I love it and highly recommend learning if you haven’t. But since this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just rows of regular stitches with some increases and decreases – that’s really it) a different technique can easily be substituted in. As long as your stitches match the gauge given, you could work this pattern in regular single crochet or regular knit stitch.

One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet or one regular knit/purl stitch.

I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single crochet, and obtained a close gauge using a 4.0 mm hook.

Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does wonders for your finished piece, especially with Tunisian crochet which tends to curl. Blocking for this piece can be done simply by laying your piece out on a foam mat, using blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat and pretty and in the right shape. Using a spray bottle and plain water, wet the piece, then let dry. This works great with wool based yarns (King Cole Riot DK) and moderately well with acrylics (RH Unforgettable).

Okay, phew. That was a lot of info.

I tried to provide the answers to what I thought might be common questions for this pattern, based on what people have asked about similar patterns πŸ™‚ If any of it seems confusing, please don’t hesitate to ask me here on the blog, or via my Facebook page

Now on to the pattern!

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Elf Coat – Medium

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Simple Wedge (Make 6)

Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.
Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts.
Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts.
Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.

Pointed Wedge (Make 5)

Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 20-27: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next 8 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 29-32: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next 9 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 34-37: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next 10 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 39-42: TKS across, RP. – 25 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next 11 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 44-47: TKS across, RP. – 27 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. RP. – 33 sts
Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next 16 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 59: TKS across, RP. – 37 sts
Row 60: TKS in the next 17 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 61: TKS across, RP. – 39 sts
Row 62: TKS in the next 18 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts
Row 64: TKS in the next 19 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts
Row 66: TKS in the next 20 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 71: TKS in the next 25 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 72: TKS in the next 26 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 73: TKS in the next 27 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 74: TKS in the next 28 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 75: TKS in the next 29 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 76: TKS in the next 30 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 78: TKS in the next 32 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Arrange the panels alternately so that the sequence begins and ends with a simple wedge. Shown below is the example for the small size, which begins and ends with a pointed wedge.

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Skirt Construction

Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges, seam all blocks together with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn.

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Skirt Border:

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The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked Double Crochet, worked back and forth, with increases at the point of each pointed wedge.

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of the skirt hem.
Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at the point of each pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this increase.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each point where the increase was marked.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each ch-1 from the increase points of the previous row.

Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie off. You can work extra border here if you want the skirt longer!

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Close-up of the increases at the point of each pointed wedge

WAIST:

The waist is worked directly onto the top of the wedges that make up the skirt. One stitch is skipped on every block, to create a slight decrease in width to accentuate the waist.

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Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the tops of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 10 times. RP. – 154 sts
Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP. To modify the size here, add or subtract any rows  after the first one to make it longer or shorter.

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Back Panel:

The back panel is worked the length of stitches that equals half of the number of stitches in the waist. In this size, the waist is 154 stitches. Divided by two, that’s 77 stitches.

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 77.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 75 sts. Return pass (RP). – 77 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 77 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 69 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 75 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 67 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 65 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 63 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 61 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 59 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 57 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 51 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 40: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 47 sts
Row 42: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 45 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 43 sts
Row 44: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 41 sts
Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 39 sts
Row 46: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 37 sts
Row 47: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 35 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33 sts
Row 49: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 31 sts
Row 50: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 27 sts
Row 52: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 25 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

ElfMediumFront

Front Panel – Right

The front panels are worked with the length of stitches equaling the half of the waistband that the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two, so each panel will be a quarter of the total waistband stitches. 154 / 4 = 38.5. Since that’s not a whole number, I will round down to 38 and fudge the seam a tiny fraction.

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 38.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 36 sts. Return pass (RP). – 38 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 38 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 37 sts.
Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 36 sts.
Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 35 sts.
Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 34 sts.
Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 33 sts.
Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 32 sts.
Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 31 sts.
Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 30 sts.
Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 29 sts.
Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 28 sts.
Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 27 sts.
Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 26 sts.
Row 39: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25 sts
Row 40: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 sts
Row 41: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23 sts
Row 42: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22 sts
Row 43:  TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21 sts
Row 44: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20 sts
Row 45: TKS in ea of the next 16 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19 sts
Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 47: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 48: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 49: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 50: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 51: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 52: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Front Panel – Left

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 38.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 36 sts. Return pass (RP). – 38 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 38 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 35 sts. RP – 37 sts.
Row 28: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. RP – 36 sts.
Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. RP – 35 sts.
Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. RP – 34 sts.
Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. RP – 33 sts.
Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. RP – 32 sts.
Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. RP – 31 sts.
Row 34: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. RP – 30 sts.
Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. RP – 29 sts.
Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. RP – 28 sts.
Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. RP – 27 sts.
Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. RP – 26 sts.
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. RP – 25 sts.
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. RP – 24 sts.
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. RP – 23 sts.
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. RP – 22 sts.
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. RP – 21 sts.
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. RP – 20 sts.
Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. RP – 19 sts.
Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 47: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 48: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 49: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 50: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 51: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 52: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seam the Back & Front Panels

Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch the sides of the panels together so that the long angles face each other. Stitch together the straight sides, not the angles. Once the bodice is sewn together, line the flat bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach using a 3.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn by working a slip stitch through both pieces.

DSC_0352.2DSC_0361

ElfMediumSleeve

Sleeve (Make 2):

Ch 16.
Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts
Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts
Row 3: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 20 sts
Row 4: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 22 sts
Row 5: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 24 sts
Row 6: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 26 sts
Row 7: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 28 sts
Row 8: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 30 sts
Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 34 sts
Row 11: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 36 sts
Row 12: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 38 sts
Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts
Row 14: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts
Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 38 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts
Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 46 sts
Row 17: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 42 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts
Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 44 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 50 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 52 sts
Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts
Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 56 sts
Row 22: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 52 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 23: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 54 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 60 sts
Row 24: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 56 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 25: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 58 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 26: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 60 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 66 sts
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 62 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts.
Row 28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 29: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 66 sts
Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 64 sts.
Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 58 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 62 sts
Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in ea of the next 56 sts. TKs dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in the final st. RP. – 60 sts.
Row 34: TKs dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in ea of the next 54 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 58 sts.
Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 52 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 56 sts.
Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 50 sts. TKs dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 54 sts
Rows 37 – 77: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 54 sts
Row 78: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 48 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 56 sts
Row 79: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 56 sts
Row 80: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 50 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 81: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts
Row 82: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 52 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 60 sts
Row 83: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 60 sts
Row 84: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 54 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 62 sts
Row 86: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 56 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 87: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 64 sts
Row 88: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 58 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 66 sts
Row 89: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 66 sts
Row 90: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Row 91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 92: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 70 sts
Row 93: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 70 sts
Row 94: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 72 sts
Row 95: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 72 sts
Row 96: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 66 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 74 sts
Row 97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 74 sts
Row 98: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 68 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 76 sts
Row 99: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76 sts
Row 100: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Row 101: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 102: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 72 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 80 sts
Row 103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts
Row 104: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 74 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82 sts
Row 105: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82 sts
Row 106: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 84 sts
Row 107: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84 sts
Row 108: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 78 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 86 sts
Row 109: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 86 sts
Row 110: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 80 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 88 sts
Row 111: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts
Row 112: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 82 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 90 sts
Row 113: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 90 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Sleeve:

Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the piece. Seam together using a whip stitch, starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving toward the shoulder. At the underarm of the sleeve, match the remaining opening to the front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows to cap the tops of the panels, overlapping the top by 4 stitches.

DSC_0394.1

Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the front and back panels.

DSC_0398

Close-up of the sleeve fitting.

Sleeve Border

DSC_0401

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam where the sleeve is sewn together.
Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 times in the same stitch, inserting hook as if to TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join with a slip stitch in the top of the first dc.
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first stitch and 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.

Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves longer here by adding extra border rounds of LDC.

DSC_0402

Close-up of sleeve border. Beware my join is not in the same place pictured as is written in the pattern – whoops!

HALF HOOD:

The hood is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete and seamed. This hood will be a shortened version of the original hood found in the Small size pattern – I have dubbed it the “half hood” even though it’s more like a 2/3rds hood – I removed one of the two non-increase rows after each increase row to shorten it. You can use either hood interchangeably when creating your coat, though, no matter which size you are making! 

Halfhood1

HalfHood2

Ch 3.
Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of the next 2 chain stitches. RP. – 3 sts
Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Rows 3: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts
Row 4: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next 3 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Rows 5: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts
Row 6: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.
Rows 7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts
Row 8: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 9: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts
Row 10: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 11: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts
Row 12: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 13: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts
Row 14: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 15:  TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts
Row 16: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 19 sts
Row 17: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 19 sts
Row 18: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 21 sts
Row 19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts
Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 23 sts
Row 21: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts
Row 22: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 25 sts
Row 23: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts
Row 24: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 27 sts
Row 25: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts
Row 26: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 29 sts
Row 27: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts
Row 28: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 31 sts
Row 29 TKS in ea st across. RP. – 31 sts
Row 30: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 33 sts
Row 31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts
Row 32: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 35 sts.
Row 33: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 35 sts
Row 34: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 37 sts.
Row 35: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts
Row 36: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 39 sts
Row 37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 39 sts
Row 38: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 41 sts
Row 39: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 41 sts
Row 40: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 43 sts
Row 41: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 43 sts
Row 42: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 45 sts
Row 43: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts
Row 44: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 47 sts
Row 45: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 47 sts
Row 46: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 49 sts
Row 47: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 49 sts
Row 48: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 51 sts
Row 49: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts
Row 50: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 53 sts
Row 51: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.
Row 52: TKS in in the first sp. TKS in ea of the next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 58 sts
Row 53: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts
Row 54: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 63 sts.
Row 55: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 63 sts
Row 56: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp) 4 times. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Row 57: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 16 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Row 59: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 73 sts
Row 60: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts.
Row 61: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 62: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 83 sts
Row 63: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts
Row 64: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 88 sts
Row 65: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts
Row 66: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 93 sts
Row 67: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 93 sts
Row 68: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 98 sts
Row 69: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts
Row 70-87: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Hood

Fold the large triangle down the center length so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other and the wrong sides are out. With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, make a whip stitch seam starting at the point of the hood and seaming over the next 55 rows toward the opening of the hood.

Once this seam is complete, there should be 32 rows left un-seamed on either side.Turn your hood inside out so that the right sides are facing out again.

Halfhood3

How did I get the number of rows to leave unseamed? It’s (8+8) to account for the small angled part on each side of the front panel, plus (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then (25-8= 17) to cover the portion of the top of the back panel not already covered by the cap of the sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded down to 64 to get an even number when I halved it – so 32 rows left unseamed on either side of the hood.

The hood then is seamed to the collar of the garment (once all sleeves and everything have been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching the points of the hood opening indicated by the red dots to the beginning of the collar on the front, also indicated by red dots.

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Seam the hood around the collar opening, matching stitch for stitch.

Front Border and Closures

We’re almost done! Next up is to use four rows of LDC to add a border across the entire front opening, beginning with the hem, working up the opening of the garment, going around the edge of the hood, and working back down the other side of the front opening. After the third row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the buttons. For traditional buttonholes, stop to mark the placement after the second row.

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Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of the skirt border rows.

Ch 3.
Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1 LDC in the side of each row across the next wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side of each row across the front panel, waist band, and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each LDC of the skirt border.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1. Traditional buttonholes mark placement here.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2. Loop buttonholes mark placement here.

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Close-up of LDC border

Marking Buttons

Mark where your buttons will be on one side, and mark an equidistant space on the other side of the border for where you will place your loops or buttonholes. I began with one button/closure on the top and bottom edge of the waist band, then used this measurement (17 sts between each placement) to space the other buttons. I made five button placements total.

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Once your button placements have been marked, begin the third or fourth row of LDC.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you reach a button/closure marker. If you are on the button side, keep working LDC’s. If you are on the closure side, there are two options: You can chain a couple stitches and skip over working a couple stitches, which creates a buttonhole within the band and a tighter closure. I opted to use a loop closure, which leaves the front a little more open when buttoned.

If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big enough to fit the button through, then slip stitch in the same stitch. Continue working LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain loop at any point where a closure is marked.

Cut yarn and tie off.

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Stopping to chain a loop closure

mftute14

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After finishing the final border row, use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach each button at the marked location on the opposite side of the closures.

After you have completed this, you are finished with the Elf Coat! Unless of course I can interest you in that Corset Back Lacing?

Thank you and I hope you are inspired to create a work of wearable art all your own ❀ The best part of designing patterns and sharing them online is that I get to help create artwork with people all around the world. Thank you, thank you, thank you for visiting and creating art with me! And of course, if you have any questions or feedback please feel welcome to comment ❀ Now, here’s a bunch of pictures! Man, I really love costumes.

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❀ MF