free tutorial

Babushka Cowl

/ reginaalexisweiss / 6 Comments

At least once per year I chance upon some ultra squishy treasure trove of bulky or super bulky weight yarn on clearance – usually in the summer. The super soft and extra thicc strands entice me as I run my fingers through the inviting tangle of coziness and I inevitably end up buying a huge pile of it! That was the story again this past summer when I came home from the craft store and had to find extra storage space under the coffee table to hide my winter-appropriate yarn until the weather turned icy enough to tempt me toward them again.

These yarns aren’t just sensorily seductive – a good pile of #6 super bulky weight yarn can allow you to bang out a larger crochet piece in no time at all! I love my old 11.5 mm crochet hook, a big awkward plastic thing I picked up at a garage sale eons ago. Me and that baby have made some pretty good projects, including the quick and super satisfying winter wearable pattern I have in store for you all today!

You can get the crochet pattern instructions right here on this blog post for FREE, or you can purchase the portable, ad-free PDF from my pattern stores to help support my art more directly <3 Find it in my Ravelry Store, Ko-Fi Shop, or Etsy Shop now – or keep scrolling for the free instructions!

Something like this piece has been in my ideas folder for a while, because I wanted to combine the bulky weight yarn with some beautiful knit-like surface texture to add to the visual appeal of what is otherwise a straightforward garment – the camel stitch is the perfect candidate for this in-the-round cowl that can be modified for a bunch of different but equally practical styles!

I named it the “Babushka Cowl” because I love the word, the style, and the meaning. Babushka is an endearing term for grandmother, but also a fabric headscarf often worn by said grandmothers. While the Babushka Cowl isn’t a headscarf, it IS a warming mantle appropriate for layering with winter outerwear in the coldest of climates – I pictured this cowl being thrown on to go feed the chickens or gather kindling, or simply to keep the chilly cabin air off of your neck and shoulders.

Babushka Cowl Pattern

Materials

11.5 mm hook
Recommended Yarn: Buttercream Luxe Craft Cozy (#6 Super Bulky, 87 yds / 200 g, 50% Superwash 50% Acrylic), 2-6 skeins
I used a few different #6 yarns for accents and trims, but the main yarn is the Buttercream Cozy.
Cowl: 2 skeins (174 yds)
Pointed Cowl: 3 skeins (261 yds)
Poncho + Hood: 6 skeins (522 yds)
Hood Only: 1 skein (87 yds)

Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
Scissors

Gauge: 3 sts & 2 rows = 2” in camel half double crochet

Sizes: Cowl (neck coverage only), Pointed Cowl (neck and chest only), Full Poncho (neck, chest, back)

Finished Measurements (Approximate, taken while lying flat):
Chest Circumference (all but Cowl): 54″ maximum
Cowl: 24” neck circumference, 10” length
Pointed Cowl: 24” neck, 24” max length in front
Poncho: 24” neck, 24” max length in front and back
Hood: 12” length, 10” depth

Above (left to right): Pointed Cowl w/ Hood, Full Poncho with Hood, Pointed Cowl w/ Hood.
Below (left to right): Cowl w/o Hood, Pointed Cowl w/o Hood

Stitches & Abbreviations

Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Half-double crochet (hdc)
Double crochet (dc)

Abbreviations:
Round (rnd)
Each (ea)
Stitch/stitches (st/sts)
Figure (fig)

Special Stitches:
Camel Half-double crochet (chdc):
Chdc is a regular hdc stitch worked into the middle strand of the back of the stitch below, instead of into the top two loops. This creates a surface texture that features the free top loops of the stitch on the right side (Example Image 1). To work this stitch, YO as for normal hdc, insert hook into the middle back loop of the stitch below. You can see which loop this is by referencing Example Images 2 & 3, in which the loops are highlighted blue. Draw up a loop, YO and draw through all loops on the hook. 1 chdc complete.

Example 1

Example 2: loops to be worked for camel stitch (top view)

Example 3: Loops to be worked (back view)

Camel Double crochet (cdc):
Cdc is a regular double crochet stitch worked into the middle strand of the back of the stitch below, instead of into the top two loops. This creates a surface texture that features the free top loops of the stitch on the right side (Ex. 4). To work this stitch, YO as for a normal dc, insert hook into the middle back loop of the stitch below (see Examples 5-6, loop is highlighted in purple). Draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 loops twice to complete the dc in the camel style.

Example 4: Camel double crochet, front view

Ex. 5: back view, loops to be worked highlighted in purple

Ex. 6: Top view, back

Chain 2 Picot (ch-2 pic):
A picot is a little bump created at the top of stitch by chaining and then slip stitching back into the top of the last stitch. Work the ch-2 picot in this pattern as follows: Chain 2 (Example Image 7). Insert hook diagonally into the top two loops at the front of the stitch (Ex. 8). YO and make a slip stitch (Ex. 9). Picot made! (Ex. 10)

Ex. 7

Ex. 8

Ex. 9

Ex. 10

Pattern Notes:

Worked in continuous rounds. Move marker for each round to mark round end.

Chains and picots do not count toward the stitch total at the end of each round.

Just a friendly reminder that I have a TIP JAR if you want to contribute a little somethin’ somethin’ to my artistic efforts – your support helps me keep providing quality free content!

Instructions (All Styles)

Ch. 40, sl st into the first ch to form a ring, making sure chain is not twisted – fig 1.

Fig. 1

Rnd 1:  1 sc in the same st as the join – fig 2. 1 hdc in ea of the next 40 sts – figs 3-4, placing last hdc in the first sc of the round – fig 5. Place stitch marker in last stitch made to mark the end of the round. – 40 hdc

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Rnd 2: Camel hdc (chdc – see Special Stitches) in ea stitch around – figs 6-7. – 40 sts

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

Rnd 3: Repeat round 2 – fig 8.

Fig. 8

From here the instructions diverge based on which version you are making. For a short cowl with no pointed sides and neck coverage only, follow Cowl instructions. For a cowl with one point in the front for chest coverage, follow Pointed Cowl instructions. For a full coverage piece pointed on the front and back, follow Poncho instructions.

Cowl:

Rnd 4: Camel double crochet (cdc – see Special Stitches) in ea st around. – 40 dc

Rnds 5-8: Rpt Rnd 4

Rnds 9-10: Camel hdc in ea st around.

Rnd 11: (Chdc in the next st, chdc with a ch-2 pic in the next st) rpt around until reaching 4 sts away from the end of the round. *1 sc in the next st, 1 sc with a ch-2 pic in the next st. Rpt from *. Sl st in the next st.

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving enough yarn to weave in the end.

Pointed Cowl:

Rnd 4: Camel hdc in ea of the next 19 sts. In the top two loops of the next st work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc – inc made – fig 9). Camel hdc in ea of the next 20 sts. – 41 sts

Fig. 9: Place marker in the ch-1 space of the increase.

Fig. 10

Rnd 5: Camel double crochet (cdc) in ea of the next 20 sts – fig 11, until reaching the ch-1 space of the increase on the previous round – fig 12. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) into the chain space – figs 13-14. Cdc into ea of the next 21 sts – 45 sts

Fig. 11

Fig. 12

Fig. 13 – be careful not to miss the first dc back loop after the increase, it may be tight and/or hard to see! Shown here highlighted in purple.

Fig. 14

Rnd 6: Chdc in ea of the next 22 sts, until reaching the ch-1 sp of the inc on previous rnd. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the ch sp – fig 15. Chdc in ea of the next 23 sts. – 47 sts

Fig. 15

Rnd 7: Cdc in ea of the next 23 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. Cdc in ea of the next 24 sts, fig 16. – 51 sts

Fig. 16

Rnd 8: Cdc in ea st until reaching the ch-1 space of the inc on the previous rnd. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. Cdc in ea st until reaching the end of the rnd. – 55 sts

Rnd 9: Rpt Rnd 8 – fig 17. – 59 sts

Fig. 17

Rnd 10: Chdc in ea of the next 10 sts. Cdc in ea of the next 19 sts – fig 18. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. Cdc in ea of the next 20 sts. Chdc in ea of the next 10 sts. – fig 19 – 63 sts

Fig. 18 – when switching colors, try to do so at the beginning of a round!

Fig. 19 – switching from chdc in the back to cdc in the front shortens the length on the back to make it easier to fit under & around coats!

Rnd 11: Chdc in ea of the next 10 sts. Cdc in ea of the next 21 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. Cdc in ea of the next 22 sts. Chdc in ea of the next 9 sts. – fig 20 – 67 sts

Fig. 20

Rnd 12: Cdc in ea st until reaching the ch-1 sp of the inc on the previous rnd. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. Cdc in ea st until reaching the end of the rnd. – 71 sts

Rnd 13: Rpt Rnd 12. – 75 sts

Rnd 14: (Cdc in the next st, Cdc with ch-2 picot in the next st) repeat until reaching the ch-1 space of the increase in the round below – fig 21. Dc into the ch sp, ch-2 picot – fig 22. (Cdc in the next st, cdc with ch-2 picot in the next st) rpt until 5 sts away from the end of round. Chdc in ea of the next 3 sts. Sc in ea of the next 2 sts. Sl st in the next st. – fig 23

Fig. 21

Fig. 22

Fig. 23

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing on the hood (optional).

Poncho:

Rnd 4: Camel hdc in ea of the next 19 sts. In the top two loops of the next st work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc – inc made). Camel hdc in ea of the next 19 sts. In the top two loops of the next st work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc). – 42 sts.

Place a marker in ea of the ch-1 spaces of the increases and in the first stitch of the round. Move these markers with each new round made to keep track of where the rounds begin and end and where to place the increases.

Rnd 5: Cdc in ea of the next 20 sts, until reaching the ch-1 space of the inc on the previous rnd. (2 dc, ch-1, 2 dc) into the ch space. Cdc into ea of the next 21 sts. – fig 24. (2 dc, ch-1, 2 dc) into the ch sp. 1 Cdc in the last st – fig 25 – 50 sts

Fig. 24 – don’t forget to mark both increases AND the beginning of the round

Fig. 25

Rnd 6: 1 Chdc in ea stitch around until reaching the first marked ch-1 sp. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the marked space. 1 chdc in ea st around until reaching the 2nd marked ch-1 sp. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the marked space. Chdc until reaching the end of the round – fig 26. – 54 sts

Fig. 26

Rnd 7: 1 Cdc in ea st around, until reaching the first ch-1 sp. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. 1 cdc in ea st around until reaching the 2nd ch-1 sp. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. 1 cdc in ea of the remaining sts of the round. – 62 sts

Rnds 8-14: Rpt Rnd 7 – 82 sts

Rnd 15: (Cdc in the next st, Cdc with ch-2 picot in the next st) repeat until reaching the ch-1 space of the increase in the round below. *Dc into the ch sp, ch-2 picot, ch 1, dc in the same space, ch-2 picot.* (Cdc in the next st, cdc with ch-2 picot in the next st) rpt until reaching the next ch-1 increase. Rpt from * to *. (Cdc in the next st, cdc with ch-2 picot in the next st) rpt until 5 sts away from the end of round. Chdc in ea of the next 3 sts. Sc in ea of the next 2 sts. Sl st in the next st. – 84 sts

Fig. 27

Cut yarn and tie off.

Hood (Optional):

For the hood pictured above, I used Lion Brand Go For Faux Thick & Quick for the final row of the hood and skipped the cords & trim.

Ch 12 – fig 28.

Fig. 28

Row 1: 1 hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook (first 2 ch sts count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 ch sts. Hdc 5 times in the next st  – fig 29  – rotate the piece, beginning down the opposite side of the ch work: 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. 1 hdc in the last st which is the last 2 ch sts of beg ch. – fig 30 –  25 hdc

Fig. 29

Fig. 30

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts – fig 31. (2 hdc in the next st) 5 times – fig 32. 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts, working final st in the top of the turning ch of row below. – 30 hdc

Fig. 31

Fig. 32

Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts – fig 33. (2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st) 5 times – fig 34. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts, working the final st in the top of the turning ch of the row below. – 35 hdc

Fig. 33

Fig. 34

Hood should be about 10 inches tall from base to top of the curved end – fig 35.

Fig. 35

Rows 4 – 12: Ch 2, turn. 1 hdc in ea st. – 35 hdc
Figs 36-37 show hood beginning to take shape after Row 7.

Fig. 36

Fig. 37

After completing Row 12, cut yarn leaving a long tail for seaming the hood to the cowl, and fasten off.

Attaching the Hood & Adding Trim

To attach your hood to the cowl, find the center beginning chain of the hood and mark it with a stitch marker at the bottom edge – fig 38. Locate the beginning stitch on your original chain loop of the cowl. The middle of the hood should align with the middle back of the cowl.

Fig. 38

Count 17 stitches away from the center back of the cowl on either side. This is where the edges of the hood should land when you are finished sewing it on. I recommend using stitch markers to pin the hood down on these edges.

Fig. 39

Using a length of yarn and a tapestry needle, sew down the hood into the loops from the beginning chain – fig 39. This will be done by sewing a hdc stitch on the row end to 1 chain loop on the cowl edge, then  sewing the next hdc stitch on the row end to 2 chain loops on the cowl edge, repeating this pattern of 2 hdc stitches per 3 chain loops until it is all sewn down – fig 40. Check to make sure the hood is even, then weave in the ends.

Fig. 40

To add decorative ties and trim to your hood, chain 30-35 stitches (or about 20 inches in length). Slip stitch back down the stitches of your chain – fig 41. At the edge of the hood, slip stitch to attach your cord – fig 42.

Fig. 41

Fig. 42

Begin to slip stitch around the top row of the hood, keeping your stitches fairly loose – fig 43. Once the other edge of the hood is reached, chain the same length as the first cord, then slip stitch back down this chain length to complete the second cord – fig 44.

Fig. 43

Fig. 44

Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in any remaining ends.

Thankfully, this photoshoot didn’t involve single digit temperatures like some of my other bulky winter projects have! If you’re interested in more thick and quick crochet project patterns, check out some of my other offerings:

From Left to Right: Ushanka and Muff Set (Free), Winter Poncho (Free or Paid), Rambler’s Mitts (Free or Paid), Woodsman’s Wife Ruana (Paid)

I’m really feeling accomplished as I close off the year with this new and fun little design, not the least because I made a lot of room on my yarn shelves by using up all that thick yarn!

I’ll be using the down time now to relax, reflect, and recharge for the new year – I hope you have a chance to do the same, and many blessings to you all <3 <3 <3 Thank you as always for your continued support!

-MF

Lotus Duster Update & Sale

/ reginaalexisweiss / 9 Comments

Ahhh, the Lotus Duster. In a lot of ways I consider this design my “breakthrough” – when it was first published for free on my blog it was what really got people noticing Morale Fiber, and it was also a huge lesson for me in how to write, grade, and lay out written patterns. 6 years, 150 tutorial photographs, a hood, 2 1/2 hours of video tutorial, and 750K+ page views later, I still love to make these as much as ever – and I hope you do too! 🌱



That’s why as I updated my new contact info to this design’s PDF I decided to also add ALL the tutorial photos contained within the file to the free blog version of the pattern. Originally, when the Lotus Duster got its first overhaul and purchasable PDF copy, I was worried about not having enough storage space for all the images. However, in the years since I’ve continued to blog and had to upgrade my image hosting anyway – so it was time to finally add those tutorial images to the free version! ✨



You can access this and tons of other free crochet patterns on my Free Patterns page here, or get the portable, printable, ad-free copy in my shops! Oh, and one more thing – this design just hit the shelves in my Ko-Fi Shop, and is on sale for only $5 until Aug 15! 🦋🌙

Most of my posts recently have been about updating the contact info in my PDF patterns, tweaking them, and giving them another home in my new Ko-Fi Shop – which is a huge job! I’m aiming to get all the PDFs updated to the new contact info (regina@moralefiber.blog) by the end of the year. But that doesn’t mean I haven’t got brand new exciting things happening hush-hush style at headquarters 😉 I’m slow but I’m steady, at least!

-MF

Delta Top Tutorial

/ reginaalexisweiss / Leave a comment

Today’s offering is a free crochet tutorial for a peek-a-boo top that stars a sleek triangular cutout in the middle of the bust, a perfect silhouette in which to place fun features like crochet shapes or dangling decorations – or just let your natural charms show! I used my favorite glow in the dark yarn to create a glowing alien head for this top.

Bookmark this design for later on the Ravelry project page <3

The free Delta Top Tutorial will be available as a PDF exclusively in my Ko-Fi Shop, and I’m doing an introductory deal for this design – “Pay What You Want”! While the free version is exactly the same as the PDF copy, this design can be purchased as the portable, printable, ad-free PDF securely through my Ko-Fi Shop for whatever price you think is fair (starting at a $1 minimum) <3 Gratuity and gratitude! <3

P.S – I’m adding ALL my halter top/bikini/crop top patterns to my Ko-Fi shop along with the Delta Top!

Delta Top

Materials:
3.50 mm hook
#4 100% cotton yarn, 1-2 skeins depending on size
#4 accent color yarn (optional), or charm to feature in cutout (optional)
Scissors, tapestry needle

Gauge: Can vary a bit, but you don’t want it too loose! I aim for about 4 stitches and 3 rows = 1″

Cutout Cups

This cup design uses skipped stitches at the end and beginning of the rows on one side only to create half of the triangle cutout shape featured in the middle of the bust. The basis of this cup is the same as for the teal cups made with the written pattern and video tutorial in my free Basic Bikini Cup Tutorial. These are the cups styled with the “HDC, Foundation 10 sts, +2 / (1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc) increases” shaping from that post, so if you need more help with the first 3 rows of the cup, refer to the first video of that post!

Foundation Row: Sk first 2 ch sts. 1 hdc in the 3rd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 9 ch sts. – 10 hdc.

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. In the end of the foundation row, working into the side of the 2 chains left over from the foundation, work (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc). Rotate the row so as to work down the opposite side, into the initial foundation chain (working the bottom loops). 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts. -24 hdc

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count), turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 hdc. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. – 28 hdc

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, leaving the last stitch unworked. – 31 hdc

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Skip very first stitch. 1 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts. – 34 hdc

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 17 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts, leaving the last stitch unworked. – 37 hdc

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Skip first stitch. 1 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 20 sts. – 40 hdc

Continue adding rows in this manner until the cups are your preferred size. Cut yarn and tie off, repeat cup pattern for 2nd cup.

Bottom Band

Next, align the two cups and begin working across the bottom of the first cup, placing two hdc in the side of each row. Once you have reached the cutout (the shortened rows), you will make a chain length and skip both cutout parts entirely.

My general formula for how many to chain here is to take the number of rows skipped for the cutout on one cup (in this example it is 7 rows), then multiply times 2 (because hdc are the height of 1-2 stitches depending on gauge). This equals 14 in my example. So if each cup cutout is about 14 stitches long, the total skip length would be about 28 stitches. The length of the actual chain made here will depend on cup size – if you have a larger bust in relation to your underbust, you’ll want to chain fewer stitches, if you have a flatter bust in relation to your underbust, chain more. So since my total skipped number was 28, minus some difference to account for my bust size (B cup), I ended up chaining 22 stitches.

Once you have made your chain length, resume working hdc into the non-shortened row sides on the bottom of the next cup until reaching the end.

Row 2: Ch 2, turn and work a row of hdc across the hdc and the chain stitches worked on the last row. Work 1 stitch in each stitch.

Rows 3 – ??: Ch 2, turn and hdc in each hdc across.

Keep adding hdc rows until the band is as wide as you like.

Side Strap

Without cutting yarn, rotate your top to begin working on the side of the cup. Work your first side strap row going toward the tip of the bikini cup.

Row 1: Chain 2. 2 hdc in each row end, 1 hdc in each stitch, until you have worked about 1/3 of the length of the side. For my tops that’s about 13-16 hdc stitches usually! This is the base of your tapered side strap.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, skip very first stitch. 1 hdc in the next st and in each stitch across. This ends the row on the bottom edge of the bikini top, which will stay flat and even.

Row 3: Ch 2, turn. 1 hdc in each stitch across until the last stitch. Skip this final stitch. This ends the row on the inner part of the side strap, which will taper by skipping the last stitch and the first stitch of the next row on this side only, as we did with the cups.

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, skip very first stitch. 1 hdc in every other stitch across.

Repeat these last two rows until you have only 2-3 stitches remaining. Cut yarn and tie off, then attach yarn at the other side and repeat for 2nd side strap. After 2nd side strap is complete, you can leave the yarn attached until you’ve decided how to compose your back & neck ties.

Ties and Trim

I’ve experimented with a pretty large variety of ways to tie crocheted halter and bikini tops, ever seeking to discover the most comfortable method so that my pieces are wearable! I’ve done criss-cross ties, lacing, racerback and T-shaped backs, wide straps and small. It seems that which ties work depends heavily on the age and body and preference of the individual – so I’ll keep coming up with more! 🙂

The Glow-Alien Delta Top featured on my friend Daisey combined tie straps in the torso with a t-shaped back closely modeled off of my Acanthus Top back design, but I didn’t have nearly enough pattern development to outline that style here in the tutorial so we’ll be doing something simpler – but I did want to include the different references in case you feel like freestyling.

The Alien Delta top in green (above) featured wider straps that meet and connect at the back, much like the Acanthus Top, with the side strap ties to thread through. The Acanthus Top (below) uses a longer, smaller criss-cross weave to connect the sides and straps.

My Valkyrie Halter features criss-cross ties at the shoulders that lace into loops on the sides, for a very adjustable fit that doesn’t put too much pressure on the back of the neck. The Kismet Halter Top, another totally free crochet pattern on my blog, features a thick side band with criss-cross lacing.

Yet another option, outlined in my Sol Halter Top customization tutorial, is to create several chain loops toward the end of the side strap, then weave the fastening cord back and forth (the Valkryie, above left, does this too). Instead of single crocheting across the entire side, I create a series of loops (about ch 15-20 sized) intermittently. I normally do 2-3 loops, about 3-4 single crochets apart.

However, despite all these options the instructions I’ll be using here are for the most simple ties. So since I am already at the end of my side strap I will proceed to chain 75-125 (depending on size), then slip stitch back down that chain length.

Once back at the beginning, sc on the row edges of the side strap working toward the tip of the cup. Since each hdc is approximately 2 stitches tall, work 2 stitches into each row side, then proceed to sc into the stitches of the cup itself, working toward the increase tip of the bikini at the top of the bust.

When reaching the ch-1 space at the tip of the cup, 1 sc into the ch-1 space. Ch 75 -100 (depending on size), slip stitch back down chain. Continue to sc on the other side of the cup, working toward the center of the bust. Once reaching the tapered edge of the cup where the cutout begins, move to the second cup and work a sc into the first stitch at the edge of the cutout at the other side. Continue working the sc edging into the cup, making a matching tie at the tip of the second cup as you did for the first.

(I actually don’t have my second side strap yet in this picture but you will so ignore that 😉 )

Work down the last side of the cup and the row sides of the tapered side strap, then work a final tie of 75-150 (depending on size) for the second side tie. Cut yarn and tie off, weave in all ends.

Alien Head

When I decided this top needed a nice celestial visitor made of my favorite glow-in-the-dark yarn, I tried to think of what sort of shape would be easiest to create for the right silhouette and size of the triangle cutout. Then it hit me – the easiest shape is the one that I already have written out and video recorded! 😉

I used my little Avocado Face Scrubby tutorial to create the alien head using the same sized hook and my glow-in-the-dark yarn held doubled up to make it more similar to worsted weight. I used the same color for all rows, then added one more round of single crochets after the tutorial ends (skipping the loop at the top, of course). Easy! Well, it saved ME a lot of work anyway 😉

After completing my alien (or pig snout?) I added little black slashes for eyes and sewed it into the triangular cutout of my Delta top using scrap yarn and yarn needle. Once I was finished, I weaved in all the ends and my top was ready for takeoff!
It really does GLOW! Sadly, this yarn appears to have been discontinued.

Of course, I had to make a few more versions with different fun additions to the peek-a-boo cutout – my next variation is Legend of Zelda inspired, using triangles to create a Triforce (of sorts):

Next time I’ll vary my stitch height to take away some of the roundedness of those triangles, as they didn’t translate as Triforce-y as I wanted them to. Still pretty though!

Next I tried a dangling charm, having had this rad piratey looking medallion sitting in my findings pile and awaiting the perfect frame…

Of course, it’s really cute just as a cutout top that shows off your natural charms! In the plain Delta Top below, I used a slip stitch around the edge of the cutout triangle to give it a smoother, more finished edge once the top was complete.

I hope this tutorial inspired you to try some of my halter top and bikini tutorials – crochet bikinis and halters have been some of my favorite projects since I started learning to crochet my own clothing, and I’ve learned a lot through experimentation which is easy since these projects don’t take too much time! If you liked the Delta Top, be sure to check out my other crochet halter top tutorials and patterns 🙂 Thanks for visiting!

-MF

Ruta Pixie Belt & PDF Sale

/ reginaalexisweiss / Leave a comment

My most recently finished version of the Pixie Pocket Belt design is all about bright, sunny yellows and saturated greens! Each of these belts I make are inspired by plants, crocheting a richly textured piece with fiber art elements fit to be worn by the spirits of the plants themselves. “Ruta” is the name of this swishy skirt belt, after Ruta Graveolans (Common Rue), a plant which is highly regarded in Italian folk magic as an herb, a medicine, and a ward against evil.

I followed the original totally free Pixie Belt Tutorial Series to create this one, looking over my PDF version and updating it with my new contact info and a few other layout changes – and as I’ve been doing with these pattern updates, the newly smarted-up PDF version of this pattern is going to become available on special sale exclusively through my Ko-Fi shop for only $5 – but hurry, this one’s only up on special sale until the end of May!

I think it must be pixie belt season, as I’ve been seeing a lot of pixie belts in the wild web – cute ones, freaky ones, even a BEETLEJUICE themed one! These are super inspiring and I can’t get enough of seeing people’s projects – it’s like getting to crochet vicariously 😉

My favorite details on this Ruta belt are the sweet leafy ties on the front of the belt (used my original leaf wrap pattern for free on my blog), the soft deep yellow flower petals on the velveteen drawstring bag pocket, and the little metal charm centered on the front of the circular pouch. The charm is called a cimaruta, which means “sprig of rue” and it is a traditional charm used in Italian witchcraft containing symbols like birds, moons, and keys that is used to ward off the evil eye.

Soft yellow and beige cotton and linen plain weave strips were ripped for the ragtag skirt, combined with strips of ribbon, a few bells here and there, and some extra yellow velvet ruffle. The matching, detachable mushroom pouch has a hidden pocket in the stem and can be worn around the neck to hold useful things like lighters, chapstick, money, etc! I do love the little yellow spots on this one – I have a totally free tutorial for several different kinds of small crochet mushroom pouches – check out the Morel, the Amanita, and the Jack-O-Lantern tutorials I have for free 🙂

Oh, and if you like all the free tutorials and whatnot, but don’t need to buy my PDF copies, perhaps you’d be willing to support me by contributing to my Tip Jar? It’s always super appreciated and some very lovely donations have been coming in lately <3 They really do help me keep making art and sharing it with the world, I am so grateful for everyone who has already contributed 🙂

Oh, one more thing! The super AMAZING green flare pants with the mushroom print I am wearing, along with the comfy yellow halter top with moon phases, are both from the incredible apparel company Purusha People – please check them out, their products have quickly become staples in my wardrobe!

-MF

Lotus Mandala Throw Pattern

/ reginaalexisweiss / 7 Comments

So approximately 8 billion years ago, my very first post here on Morale Fiber Blog was the free pattern for the Lotus Mandala Throw Blanket. It’s a doily-esque scrappy project that I originally designed in 2014, published for the first time in 2015, and is the predecessor to my now-popular Lotus Vest and Lotus Duster wearable designs.

I did want to bring this throw blanket back and clean it up a little, since the design and the written instructions for this mandala motif have evolved a lot since I first published them, and yet I’ve never revisited the original blanket pattern!

While updating the instructions of course I felt that I should offer a PDF copy for those who want the portable, printable, ad-free instructions – that’s available in my pattern stores now on Ravelry or Etsy 🙂 HOWEVER – You can get this PDF for a special lower price of $5 USD for a limited time only in my new Ko-Fi Shop! Ko-Fi doesn’t take a percentage fee from my sales, allowing me to offer better prices; I’ve begun offering special deals to encourage people to explore that new shop front – more to come in the future! The special Ko-Fi shop sale will last through to the end of March 🙂

Lotus Mandala Throw Blanket

Materials:
5.5 mm hook
Worsted weight yarns of various colors – approximately 900-1000 yards

Gauge – 3.5” in diameter after Rnd 3

Finished Measurements (approximate): 54” diameter

Pictured above: I always use an assortment of worsted weight acrylics for this project – it’s designed for scrap use, so have some fun with color! 🙂

Special Stitches:

Dc with last loop on the hook: YO once, insert hk into next st/sp, draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 lps on the hook. 2 lps remain on the hook (1 original and 1 left unworked from the dc stitch).

4-DC Cluster – Work 4 dc stitches, keeping the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 5 loops on the hook.

Shell – 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc worked into the same space

Treble 3 Together (tr3tog) – (YO twice and insert hook into indicated stitch, draw up a loop, YO and draw through 2 loops twice). This leaves 1 remaining loop on the hook from the treble just worked and 1 remaining loop from the previous stitch. Repeat within parentheses 2 more times – 3 trebles with 3 extra loops on the hook made. YO and draw through all loops on the hook – tr3tog made.

Scallop – 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc worked into the same stitch

Notes:

Video Tutorial Resources: The first 16 rounds of this design are the same as the other two projects featuring the Lotus Mandala – therefore you can use the first 16 rounds of the video tutorial for the Lotus Duster, found here, to guide you through the same stitches on this project.

Color changes: This pattern is not written for specific color changes. To change colors, simply cut the yarn and tie off in the final stitch of the round you wish to change on. Rejoin the new color in the same stitch and carry on with the instructions.

Chain and Stitch Joins: Certain areas of this pattern use a Chain and Stitch Join to close the round, which consists of a number of chain stitches combined with a regular crochet stitch to form the final chain space in an openwork design. This is done to place the hook properly to begin the next round in the middle of the final chain space. For a more detailed tutorial on this type of join, see my free resource here: Chain and Stitch Join Tutorial

Related projects: This project is based on the Lotus Mandala motif, which also occurs in several other garment patterns of mine which are available for free or as a portable, printable, ad-free PDF! You can find more on those designs here:
Lotus Mandala Duster
Lotus Mandala Vest
Filigree Lace Cap

Instructions

Make ‘Magic Ring’ – you can find a tutorial for this technique on my blog here!

Rnd 1: 8 sc into the ring, tighten. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round. – 8 sc

Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sc, ch 1) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-4. – 8 dc + 8 spaces

Rnd 3: Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 1 – counts as first dc with last loop on the hook. Dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 6 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin your next round (See Notes – Chain and Stitch Joins) – 8 clusters + 8 spaces

Rnd 4: Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on hk, dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. 16 clusters + 16 spaces

Rnd 5: Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on the hk. Dc into the same space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster into the next ch-2 space, ch 3) 14 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster to join. – 16 clusters + 16 spaces

Rnd 6: Ch 3 – counts as first dc, 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3. (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 16 sets of 3 dc + 16 spaces

Rnd 7: Sl st in the top of the next dc. (Sk next dc. In the next ch-3 space work 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc – shell made. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc) 16 times. Join with a sl st in first sl st. – 16 shells

Rnd 8: Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch 3, sc in the top of next tr stitch in the middle of the shell, ch 3. (Dc in the next sl st between shells, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 32 spaces

Rnd 9: Ch 3. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next sc and draw up a lp, (YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk) twice – one treble stitch leaving last lp on the hk made. Treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk – 3 lps remain on the hk. YO, draw through all 3 lps, ch 7. (In same dc in which you worked the previous treble, work 1 treble crochet leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk – 4 lps on the hk. YO, draw through all four lps on hk – tr3tog made, ch 7. ) 15 times. Join with a sl st in top of first tr3tog. – 16 tr3tog + 16 spaces

Round 9 notes: Round 9 is tricky, and if you are having difficulty please see the video tutorial referenced in the Notes of this pattern. When chaining 7, be sure to keep your tension very relaxed so that this round doesn’t become too tight. In the photo below you can see that I’ve begun chaining too tightly and it “squishes” the tr3tog inward. After I relax my tension, it’s better 😊

Rnd 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Work 1dc in the top of the next tr3tog st, ch 1) 15 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Sl st into 3rdch of beg ch-4.  – 48 clusters + 16 dc

Rnd 11: (Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Skip next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space, ch 3. Sk next cluster and space, sl st in next dc. ) 15 times. Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Sk next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space. Sk next cluster and space, dc in same st as the sl st join of the previous round. – 32 clusters

Rnd 12: Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk. Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and draw through both lps on the hook – first tr2tog made. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the top of the next cluster. Sk next 2 chain-3 spaces, work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and pull through all 3 lps. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the first tr2tog. – 16 clusters + 16 tr2tog + 32 chain spaces

Rnd 13: Sl st in the next ch-4 space, ch 3 – counts as first dc. Work 4 dc in the same space. (1 dc in top of the next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-4 space, 1 dc in top of the next tr2tog, 5 dc in next ch-4 space) 15 times. Work 1 dc in top of next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, 1 dc in top of tr2tog. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 192 dc sts

Rnd 14: Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch-1) Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) 95 times. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rdch of beg ch-4. – 96 dc + 96 ch-1 spaces

22” in diameter after Round 14

Rnd 15: (Sk next ch-1 space. Work 1 hdc in the next dc. In the same st work 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc – scallop made. Skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc) 48 times. Join with a sl st in the same st as join from the previous rnd. – 48 scallops

Rnd 16: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Sk next st, 1 hdc in next dc, 1 sc in next tr. (1 hdc in the next dc, sk next st, 1 dc in the next sl st between scallops, sk next st, 1 hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next tr) 47 times. Hdc in next stitch, sk next st, join with a sl st to the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 192 sts

Rnd 17: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc), dc in same stitch, ch 2. (Sk next st, dc in next stitch, ch 2) rpt around. Join with a hdc stitch to first dc in the round – 146 ch-2 spaces

Rnd 18: Sc into the same space, ch 3. (Sc in next ch space, ch 3) rpt around. Join with a sl st in first sc of the round – 146 ch-3 spaces

Rnd 19: Rpt rnd 18.

Rnd 20: Rpt rnd 18.

Rnd 21: Sl st into the next  ch st. Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch-1 in V-stitch pattern), 1 dc in the same space. *(1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next chain space. Rpt from * until last ch space is worked. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4.

Rnd 22: Sl st into the next ch st. Ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch-2 in V-stitch pattern), 1 dc in the same space. *(1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) in the next chain space. Rpt from * until last ch space is worked. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4.

33” after Rnd 22

Rnd 23: Sc in first space. Ch 5, (sc in next ch-1 space, Ch 5) rpt around until last ch-1 space. Ch 2, dc into the first sc of round.

Rnds 24-30. rpt rnd 23.

Rnd 31: Sc in first ch-5 sp, 5 dc in next sc (sc in next ch-5 sp, 5 dc in next sc) around, join with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 32: Ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch 2), sc in 3rd dc of next fan, ch 2 (dc in next sc, ch 2, sc in 3rd dc of next fan, ch 2) around. Join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5.

Rnd 33: Sl st into the next ch-2 space. Ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch 2). (1 dc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2) rpt around. Join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5.

Rnd 34: Sl st into the next ch sp, ch 2 (counts as first dc in cluster), work 2 more dc in same space, leaving last lps on the hk. YO, pull through all lps on hk – 3 dc cluster made, ch 3. (3 dc cluster, ch 3 in next ch-1 sp) around. Join with a sl st in first dc of the round.

Rnd 35: Sl st into the next chain space, ch 3. *(Sc in next ch-1 space, ch 4) rpt around from *. Join with a sl stitch in first sc of rnd.

Rnd 36: Sl st into the next 2 chain sts, sc in same chain space, ch 5. (Sc in next ch-3 space, ch 5) repeat around. Join with a sl st into the first sc of round.

Rnd 37: Ch 2. Work 3 dc in the same chain space, ch 2. Sl st in the next sc. *(Chain 2, 3 dc into the next chain space, ch 2, sl st in next sc) repeat from * around. Cut yarn and tie off.

Weave in all ends.

I hope you enjoyed this project – the Lotus Mandala is a special design for me, because it represents a lot of the “breakthroughs” I’ve had while running Morale Fiber and putting my art out into the world. A lot of the frustrations, too! One never appears without the other, amirite? 😉

When I first picked up the hook for this design, I had a vague idea to try to freehand some of the more complex openwork I’d been tackling in other people’s crochet patterns. I had a long car ride ahead of me and a lot of scrap acrylic, very little design knowledge, but a willingness to fail. And I did fail, but what came off my hook surprised me completely, because it DID turn out to be a functional, complex, and pretty openwork mandala design (after a few tweaks).

And here I am, hundreds of “tweaks” later, still crocheting the Lotus. But the memory of that car ride, and what came off my hook during and after, remains a wonderment to me because I didn’t make this thing, I received it, and it’s not a gift to the world, because it’s not mine to give. It already belonged to everyone <3
-MF

Domovoy Cap

/ reginaalexisweiss / 1 Comment

Do you think I’ve made enough pointy hat designs by now? I don’t! 🙂

Keep for details and for the FREE crochet pattern instructions for this hat, or if you want to support my art directly, consider buying the portable, printable, ad-free PDF version of this pattern! It’s available in my Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop, but we’re adding something: the Domovoy Cap is also available in my new Ko-Fi Shop <3 I’m using this pattern to test out this new shop front and am very excited about the possibilities – try it out, let me know what you think, and stay tuned for further developments 🙂 But don’t worry, I’ll still be using Etsy and Ravelry !

Prompted by a cute outfit photo I saw somewhere floating in the ether, this little velveteen cap design practically FLEW off my hook once I decided to make it. With a mischievous peaked top that expands down into a short fitted brim and subtle post stitch ribbed texture at the edge, this free crochet hat project is full of impish charm!

I named it the “Domovoy Cap” – a domovoy being the Slavic spirit of household and ancestors (click here for a Wikipedia article about them). These spirits provide important protection for the animals and family of a house, and must be appeased with offerings in order to procure their blessings and assistance.

Bernat Velvet is the recommended yarn for this project, and you’ll need less than half a skein to get one cap, so it’s perfect for using up spare balls of the stuff. I worked almost the whole hat in single crochet to eliminate Velvet’s tendency to “pull out” of the stitch due to the pile of the fiber (which happens if you work this kind of yarn in regular hdc stitches or taller). The end result is an easy project that looks adorable, feels soft as butter, and can be made in a day for maximum finished-object satisfaction.

I myself made a bunch of these, tweaking and re-tweaking to get JUUUUUST the right shape, and even did a few smaller versions – modifications for kids’ sizes are given in the notes of the pattern 🙂

Domovoy Cap Pattern

Materials:

5.00 mm hook
Bernat Velvet (#5 bulky, 300 g / 315 yards, 100% Polyester) – 1 skein

Scissors & yarn needle

Gauge: 3 sts & 3 rows – 1”

Finished Measurements (approximate):
22” brim (16-18″ for child size modificiation)
10.5” tall (from tip to bottom edge)

Stitches & Abbreviations:
magic ring (mr) – free tutorial from my blog here
single crochet (sc)
slip stitch (sl st)
half-double crochet (hdc)
half-double crochet decrease / half double crochet 2 together (hdc2tog)
front post half double crochet (fphdc)
back post half double crochet (bphdc)
free tutorial for post stitching found on my blog here
stitch/es (st/s)
each (ea)
round (rnd)

Notes:
Initial ch-1 at beginning of rounds does not count as first st.
This pattern uses parenthetical repeats. Instructions occurring within () should be repeated as written as many times as the number directly after indicates. Ex: “()5 times”

Notes for how to modify the hat to fit children’s sizes is included in the written portion of the pattern where deviating from the original instructions.

Make magic ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc – see Notes) 3 sc into the ring. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 3 sts

Working into single crochet in a 3-stitch round can be pretty tight– the tension of the first round gives a nice pointed tip to the cap, but if you are struggling to work so few stitches in the round, you can work 6 single crochet into the initial Magic Ring instead, join with a slip stitch, then pick up the pattern from Rnd 3.

Rnd 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in the same st as join. 2 sc in ea of the next two sts. Join with a sl st.  – 6 sts

Rnd 3: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 6 sts

Rnd 4: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Sl st in the first sc to join. – 9 sts

Rnd 5: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. – 9 sts

Rnd 6: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in the next st. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Sl st to join. – 12 sts

Rnd 7: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. – 12 sts

Rnd 8: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 18 sts

Rnd 9: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. – 18 sts

Rnd 10: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in the next st. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts

Rnd 11: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. – 24 sts

Rnd 12: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 30 sts

Rnd 13: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. – 30 sts

Rnd 14: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Joint with a sl st. – 36 sts

Rnd 15: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts

Rnd 16: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 42 sts

Rnd 17: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 42 sts

Rnd 18: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. -48 sts

Rnd 19: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. Join with a sl st.– 48 sts

Rnd 20: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts

Rnd 21: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts

If you wish to make a child size hat with a circumference of 18 inches (standard size for 1-3 year old), skip Rnd 22 and proceed to work Rnds 23-26 at 54 total stitches per round.

This is figured by taking the gauge (3 sts per inch) and finding the desired circumference for the hat (18”) for the formula (3 sts x 18 inches = 54 sts). You can use the same formula for smaller hats such as baby size (16 inches x 3 = 48 sts per round, so you’d stop increasing at Rnd 18 and then skip to Rnds 23-26. You may need to adjust the length by adding extra non-increasing rows if you do this, however.

Rnd 22: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts

Rnds 23-26: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts

Rnd 27: Ch 2. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 1 hdc2tog over the next 2 sts, making a hdc dec (see Notes). (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 1 hdc2tog) 5 times. – 54 sts.

8 hdc made. To make hdc2tog dec, work as follows:

YO and draw up a loop from next stitch

YO and draw up a loop from next stitch again – 2 stitches now have been worked, 5 loops on the hook

YO once more

Draw through all loops on the hook

If you’ve modified the pattern for smaller size, Rnd 27 stitch counts will be different – just make sure you decrease by 6 stitches, placing the hdc2tog decreases at regular intervals.

Rnd 28: Ch 2. 1 fphdc in the same st as join. 1 fphdc in ea of the next 2 sts. 1 bphdc in ea of the next 3 sts. (1 fphdc in ea of the next 3 sts, 1 bphdc in ea of the next 3 sts) around. Join with a sl st in the first fphdc of the round.

For fphdc, YO as normal and insert hook around the body of the stitch below, working in the front as shown

Draw up loop, YO and complete a hdc st. 1 fphdc made. Complete 2 more.

For bphdc, YO as normal and insert hook around the body of the stitch below, working in the back as shown.

Draw up a loop, YO and complete a hdc sts. 1 bphdc made. Complete 2 more.

Rpt around as indicated for Rnd 28.

Rnd 29: Rpt Rnd 28.

Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in ends.

I hereby offer this design to honor the Domovoy, and pray for kinship and peace <3
-MF

P.S – during the development of this design, my particular household referred to these as “the nipple hats” lol 😉

Bowler Away

/ reginaalexisweiss / 4 Comments

I’ve finished another hat made from my FREE Vintage Derby Hat pattern and have some pictures and a brief update to go along with 🙂

I recently updated the PDF copy to include my new direct contact e-mail address, regina(at)moralefiber.blog. I will be moving all my e-mail listings over to this new contact this year, which means updating all the PDF’s to reflect this address – the old contact address, moralefiber@yahoo.com, will remain in use through 2022 but will be deactivated by the end of the year – so head’s up! E-mail is a great way to contact me to ask questions, but you can direct message me on any of my social media platforms and I’ll do my best to help in a timely manner <3

For this new bowler, I paired Caron Simply Soft Party (2 skeins) with 1 skein of an old label-less donation yarn. That makes 2 #4 weight strands paired together with a 5 mm hook AND waistcoat stitching (click link for free tutorial) for this hat – I forgot how SLOW this project turns out to be! However, the tight stitching combined with doubled up yarn strands makes a hat that isn’t floppy or shapeless at all but keeps a smooth, tailored profile and sits firmly on the head like a real structured derby hat should. So in my opinion, the patience pays off.

I think one of my favorite puzzles to work as a crochet designer is hunting for subtle characteristics in stitch composition or yarn quality that will help bring about the “thing-ness” of what I’m trying to make. Waistcoat stitch, a technique that uses single crochet worked into the center of the single crochet stitch below rather than the top two loops, produces a firm, tight fabric with a look that is almost like a knit stitch. This makes it a great stitch for structured hats in my opinion; especially when combined with a very tight tension achieved by a large yarn-thickness to hook-size ratio, you can make a sturdy hat with a smooth surface that’s thick, durable, and resilient to smooshing. I used this same strategy again last year when I needed a crochet technique that would allow me to get a very tall standing height on my Wizard Hat pattern!

Pictured above: The Wizard Hat, modeled with the lacy Cobweb Wrap

To digress just a little bit about the Wizard Hat – several people that tried out the Wizard Hat messaged me to ask about the first few rounds – they were having difficulty getting the stitches in – finding where they went and getting the hook in that spot while working with a tiny 3-stitch circle (in waistcoat stitch!!!) is indeed challenging 🙂 And beginner crocheters may find themselves frustrated. Fortunately, you can totally skip the 3-stitch rounds on that hat and start from the 6-stitch rounds that occur immediately after to help alleviate the extreme tension in the tippy top of the point that makes the first few rounds so difficult!

Adorable textile moth pictured in my hands is from the wonderful artist Joelle of The Forest Fae

Anyway, that’s the type of thing I love to help with so please direct message me if you need any advice or help working my patterns 🙂 that’s what I’m here for.

Getting past my own frustrations was sometimes difficult for me during working this version of the Derby, just because I was already dealing with some health issues and my body didn’t want the extra strain of working this stitch for too long. I had to take it literally one or two rounds at a time, which I am NOT used to doing! Honestly, it was a good lesson in slowing down that I probably needed.

Lastly, my little vintage outfit here is shabby and mori kei inspired again, matched with the thrifted collar and gloves which are real handmade antique crochet. I do tend to want to adopt all crochet I find in the thrift stores 😉 As if I needed more!

Thanks for visiting, and please check out my free tutorials page if you want to pick up more handy tips and tricks from yours truly 🙂

-MF

Waistcoat Stitch Tutorial

/ reginaalexisweiss / 5 Comments

Today I’m sharing a tutorial for the Waistcoat Stitch, aka the Knit Stitch! Despite the name, this stitch is a crochet stitch that’s actually very simple – it’s basically just single crochet – but creates a distinctive structure that’s perfect for tightly formed fabric with a smooth surface texture. Plus, it looks a bit like knitting 🙂

Waistcoat Stitch (abbreviated to “WS” or “ws”) is worked in the round to achieve the smooth knit-look texture. You can work this stitch back and forth, but because the WS relies on the Right Side to create the effect, back-and-forth WS will not look smooth and pretty like in-the-round will. The firm texture, the neat look of the surface, and the reliance on working in rounds makes this a perfect stitch for hats!

In fact, I already have one hat pattern written in the Waistcoat Stitch, available both for free on my blog and purchasable as a portable, ad-free PDF – that’s the Vintage Derby Hat, shown above & below.

And I have yet another pointy hat being developed right this very minute, ready to be published soon, which also utilizes this awesome technique – so I’m doing a tutorial here today in preparation which includes a video demo – keep scrolling for the free instructions! <3

Waistcoat Stitch Tutorial

So how do we work this amazing little stitch? As I mentioned, the WS is basically a single crochet, so you don’t have to learn any fancy yarnwork to create it. The secret to this stitch is all in where you insert your hook to draw up the first loop for your crochet stitch.

In the first round, you’ll be working traditional single crochet stitches into your ring or your round of chains (remember, we don’t work this back and forth but in rounds instead).

Once you have established a round in single crochet, the next round will work single crochet stitches but through the vertical bars of the stitch below, not through the top two loops as normal.

Highlighted here are the top two loops (first image above) where you would normally insert your hook to draw up the first loop for your stitch. In the second image above, I have highlighted the vertical bars of the crochet stitch below, which form a bit of a “V”. You’ll be inserting your hook in between these two bars from the front and emerging through the body of the stitch to the back of the work.

Pictured Above: Inserting the hook through the middle of the highlighted vertical bars of the stitch below

At the back of the work, the vertical bars of a single crochet stitch form an upside-down “V” shape. Your hook will emerge between these vertical bars, at the point indicated by the white dot.

Pictured Above: The hook emerging at the back of the work, between the vertical bars. The stitch beside it is highlighted to show the configuration of the bars when viewed from the back, with the white dot indicating where the hook should emerge.

From there, draw up a loop. YO and draw through two loops as normal to complete one Waistcoat Stitch. Your stitch will now emerge from the center of the stitch below, coming out from the vertical V shape.

Insert your hook again through the V of the next stitch, then draw up a loop and complete the single crochet as normal. Voila! You are working waistcoat stitch!

After a few rounds of this stitch, the texture starts to become very smooth and even, with the v-shapes mimicking the loops of knitting but with a firmer, thicker fabric perfect for structured projects.

Increasing and decreasing in Waistcoat Stitch are handled the exact same way as with single crochet, but again – inserting that hook in between the vertical bars instead of the top loops. So to increase, simply work two Waistcoat stitches in the next vertical-bar “V”, so that you have an extra stitch in the same place. To decrease, work a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) but draw up your first two loops from between the vertical-bar “V”s 🙂

I’ve created this video tutorial to help you navigate the basics of this stitch – I didn’t get quite the video quality I wanted for this, but I’m working on upgrading some of my technologies for doing better videos (and dealing with some malfunctions) so stay tuned and thanks for your patience 🙂

Waistcoat Stitch Video Tutorial

As I mentioned (a lot) just love this stitch because it’s particular qualities are so good for hats! Firm fabric and a neatly smooth textured surface – it’s just perfect <3 You can also substitute this stitch for regular single crochet in many simple hat patterns – I might try it on my Mori Girl Beret pattern next!

Thanks for visiting and stay tuned for my newest hat pattern, to be released in just a few days!
-MF

Kismet Halter Top

/ reginaalexisweiss / 15 Comments

My little Kismet Square motif has had an eventful life so far! I designed this circle-to-square motif a couple years ago, planning on using it for an ambitious new design which STILL hasn’t seen the light of day. Okay so, I’m still working on that one and it will eventually become something really great, but it is like… taking forever. Which I’ve learned simply happens sometimes, so you just have to roll with it.

In the meantime, I’ve found the main Kismet motif really useful for inspiring other patterns – including my newest FREE halter top design which premiers right here, right now!

The Kismet Halter Top is here on this blog post for anyone who wants to enjoy it, but is also available in my Ravelry Store , Ko-fi Shop, and Etsy Shop as a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF 🙂 Read all the details of this latest design below or keep scrolling for the FREE crochet pattern instructions!

Oh, and the other project that features the Kismet motif is the Kismet Poncho, shown below, also free or purchasable as a premium pattern – OH and a FULL video tutorial version exists, too! <3 Yay!

Kismet Halter Top

The Kismet Halter top draws aspects from many of my other favorite halter top designs – a sturdy, wide construction around the ribcage for good coverage and good support, criss-cross lacing ties that don’t pressure the neck, and an eye-catching central mandala that looks perfect layered under tanks and low-cut tees. The optional Mehndi Border across the bottom can add extra coverage and turn up the festival fanciness factor!

The instructions for this top are in good written detail for the stitches and construction, while also being flexible enough to customize size to get the perfect fit. Cup sizes are written for A cup through DD cup and size suggestions for customizing the band portion go from X-Small – to 2X-Large 🙂 75+ tutorial photos are included with detailed references and clear steps connected to the written instructions.

The top is made with #4 weight 100% cotton for a quick project that will keep you cool and comfortable all summer – taken to the beach, to festivals, out dancing, or anywhere you are following your kismet <3

The following free pattern appears here exactly as in the PDF version, if you like it consider supporting my art by buying the PDF version or sampling my other patterns in the Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop! If you don’t need or want the PDF file, consider leaving a tip in my Tip Jar? Thank you for your support and please let me know what you think 🙂

Materials:

#4 weight cotton yarn (I used I Love This Cotton! – 3.5 oz/ 100 g, 180 yds, 100% cotton)
1 skein main color for Small-Med/A-C, 2 skeins main color for Lg-XL/D-DD , ~100 yds each for 2 accent colors
3.50 mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)
Stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle.

Gauge: 4 sts & 3 rows = 1” in hdc
4 sts & 5 rows = 1” in sc
4 sts & 2.5 rows = 1” in dc

Sizes:
A – DD Cup sizes. Sizing for band (circumference around the ribcage) is written flexibly for customizable sizes.
Finished Measurements For Individual Cups (approximate, taken with cup flattened):
Cup Size A:  5.5” length from top to bottom (shown below), 4” width across bottom
Size B: 6.5” length, 5” width
Size C: 7” length, 6.5” width
Size D: 7” length, 7.5” width
Size DD: 7.5” length, 8.5” width

Stitches & Abbreviations:
Chain (ch)
Double crochet (dc)
Slip stitch (sl st)
Half Double Crochet (hdc)
Single Crochet (sc)
Treble (tr)

Skip (sk)
Round (rnd)
Space (sp)
Figure (fig)
Yarn Over (YO)

Special Techniques

Magic Ring – An adjustable loop for starting circular pieces – you can see a full video demo on my YouTube Channel here or view the step-by-step written tutorial here.
Chain and Stitch Join – special way of closing an openwork round by using a stitch to substitute the last few chain stitches. Explained in pattern but for a full tutorial see my blog post here.
Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog) – a half double crochet decrease. Steps explained in pattern.
PomPom Stitch (for optional bottom border) – a special cluster of stitches that form a little ball or pompom. Full tutorial is available in written form here
Additionally, I have a PomPom Stitch tutorial video on my YouTube channel here
Double Crochet 3 Together (dc3tog) – part of a cluster stitch that forms the pompom. Steps detailed in PomPom Stitch tutorial.

Notes:
Beginning chain stitches do not count as the first st of the row.
Beginning chain sts are given as 1 chain stitch for sc, 1 chain st for hdc, 2 ch sts for dc – these are one less than the typical amount because they work better for my gauge for this project, however, if those are too tight please feel free to add an extra chain to the beginning chain as needed.

Instructions

Center Motif:

With first accent color, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first dc – fig 1), 12 dc into the ring – fig 2. Pull loose yarn end to tighten the ring, slip stitch in the first dc to join – fig 3. – 12 dc

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch 2). (1 dc in the next st, ch 2) 11 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-5 – fig 4. – 12 dc, 12 ch-2 spaces

Fig. 4

Rnd 3: In the next ch space work 1 hdc, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc, 1 hdc – fig 5. Sl st in the next dc – fig 6. (In the next ch sp work 1 hdc, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc, 1 hdc. Sl st in the next dc) 11 times. Cut yarn and tie off if changing colors. – fig 7. – 12 shells

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

Fig. 7 – your motif may ruffle some at the end of this round. To help it lie flat, pull out the ends of the shells and press the motif. Don’t worry if it’s still a little curly, it will straighten out in the following rounds.

Rnd 4: Join 2nd accent color at the top of any ch space of the previous round (if not changing colors, simply slip stitch to the next ch sp). 1 sc in the same sp – fig 8. Ch 3, sc in the same space, ch 3. (1 sc in the next ch-1 space, ch 3, 1 sc in the same space, ch 3) 10 times – fig 9. 1 sc in the next ch-1 space, ch 3, 1 sc in the same space. Ch 1, work 1 hdc in the first sc of the round. This closes the last chain space by using a half-double crochet stitch instead of chain stitches so that your hook is positioned in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin the next round – figs 10-11. – 24 ch-3 spaces, 24 sc.

Fig. 8

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

Fig. 11 – the final chain space is closed by working a hdc which leaves your hook positioned in a ch-3 sized space to begin the next round.

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (does not count as first dc) – fig 12. 2 dc in the side of the last hdc worked at the close of Rnd 4, working underneath the side of the stitch as if it were a chain space – fig 13. Ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1 – fig 14. (2 dc in the next ch-3 space, ch 2. 2 dc in the same space, ch 1. 1 sc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1) 11 times – fig 15. 2 dc in the last ch-3 space, working next to the initial 2 dc. Ch 2, join with a sl st in the first dc of the round – fig 16. – 12 shells

Cut yarn and tie off – center motif should measure about 5.5” in diameter – fig 17. If motif is still curly, stretch out the points of the shells again and press flat. Some curl or ruffle will likely remain, this will also get stretched out later in the pattern. In some cases, 100% cotton yarn will be very thick and you may have extreme ruffling problems – in this case, you can skip the ch-1 in between the dc shells and the single crochets in Rnd 5 to reduce bulk.

Proceed to Cups instructions.

Fig. 12

Fig. 13

Fig. 14

Fig. 15

Fig. 16

 Fig. 17 – Motif should measure about 5.5” in diameter.

Once finished, make 2 bikini cups according to your cup size:

Cups: Size A

Finished measurements: 5.5” from top to bottom (show above), 4.5” width across flat side.

Ch 16 (counts as first 15 chain stitches  + 1 to turn, final ch st does not count as first st)

Foundation Row: Turn, work 1 sc in each of the next 15 ch sts. – 15 sc

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc, see Notes), turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 14 sts. In the side of the sc on the end, work (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc). Rotate to work down the other side of the foundation row, inserting hook into the bottom loop of the chain stitches. 1 sc in ea of the next 15 sts. – 32 sc, 16 on ea side of the ch-1 space (ch-1 space not included in the end-of-row stitch counts)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 15 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 sc in ea of the next 16 sc. – 34 sc, 17 on ea side of ch-1 space.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 16 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 17 sc. – 36 sc, 18 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 17 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 18 sc. – 38 sc, 19 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 18 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 19 sc. – 40 sc, 20 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 6:  Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 19 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 20 sc. – 42 sc, 21 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 20 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 21 sc. – 44 sc, 22 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 21 sts. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in ea of the next 22 sc. – 46 sc, 23 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete. Proceed to “Construction”

Cups: Size B

Finished measurements: 6.5” from top to bottom (shown above), 5” width across flat side (shown below)

Ch 16 (counts as first 15 ch stitches + 1 to turn, final ch does not count as first st).

Foundation Row: Turn, 1 sc in ea of the next 15 ch sts. – 15 sc

Row 1: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the side of the ch 1 on the end. Rotate to work down the other side of the row, inserting hook into the bottom loop of the foundation chain stitches. 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts. – 34 hdc, 17 hdc on ea side of the ch-1 space (Ch-1 space not included in the end-of-row stitch counts)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 17 sts. – 38 hdc, 19 hdc on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 18 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 19 sts. – 42 hdc, 21 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st.  1 hdc in ea of the next 20 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 21 sts. – 46 hdc, 23 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 22 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 23 sts. – 50 hdc, 25 on ea side of the next ch-1 sp.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 24 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in ea of the next 25 sts. – 54 hdc, 27 on ea side of the next ch-1 sp.

Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete. Proceed to “Construction”

Cups: Size C

Finished measurements: 7” from top to bottom (above), 6.5” width across flat side (below)

Ch 16 (counts as first 15 chain stitches  + 1 to turn, final 2 ch sts do not count as first st)

Foundation Row: Turn, work 1 hdc in each of the next 15 ch sts. – 15 hdc

Row 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc, see Notes), turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 14 sts. In the side of the hdc on the end, work (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc). Rotate to work down the other side of the foundation row, inserting hook into the bottom loop of the chain stitches. 1 dc in ea of the next 15 sts. – 34 dc, 17 on ea side of the ch-1 space (ch-1 space not included in the end-of-row stitch counts)

Row 2: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 16 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 17 sts. – 38 dc, 19 on ea side of the ch-1 space.

Row 3: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. – 42 dc, 21 on ea side of the ch-1 sp

Row 4: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. – 46 dc, 23 on ea side of the ch-1 sp

Row 5: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. – 50 dc, 25 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 6: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. – 54 dc, 27 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete. Proceed to “Construction”

Cups: Sizes D-DD

D-DD cups follow the same instructions given below, with DD sizes adding extra rows at the end.

Finished measurements, D Cup: 7” from top to bottom (above), 7.5” width across flat side

Finished Measurements, DD cup: 7.5” from top to bottom, 8.5” width across flat side

Ch 19 (counts as first 18 chain stitches  + 1 to turn, final ch sts do not count as first st)

Foundation Row: Turn, work 1 sc in each of the next 18 ch sts. – 18 sc

Row 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc, see Notes), turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 17 sts. In the side of the ch st on the end, work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc). Rotate to work down the other side of the foundation row, inserting hook into the bottom loop of the chain stitches. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts. – 38 dc, 19 on ea side of the ch-1 space (ch-1 space not included in the end-of-row stitch counts)

Row 2: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. – 40 dc, 20 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 3: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts. – 42 dc, 21 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 4: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. – 44 dc, 22 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 5: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts. – 46 dc, 23 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 6: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. – 48 dc, 24 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 7: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. (1 dc, ch 1 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. – 50 dc, 25 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 8: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. – 52 dc, 26 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Cut yarn and tie off for D cup sizes. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete.

For DD sizes, continue for following rows:

Row 9: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts. – 54 dc, 27 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Row 10: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 27 sts. – 56 dc, 28 on ea side of the ch-1 sp.

Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for 2nd cup, leaving main color yarn attached after 2nd cup is complete. Proceed to “Construction”

Construction:

Completed pieces so far.

Connecting the Motif & Cups:

With the two cups complete, position the 2nd cup (with the yarn still attached), so that the attached yarn is between the motif and the cup on the side of your crocheting hand – as shown in fig. 18, below-

 Fig. 18 -This configuration allows you to work back and forth between the cups and the motif to connect them.

Chain 3. Sc in any ch-2 space of the shells of the motif – fig 19. Ch 2. Skip 5 stitches on the last row of the cup, sc in the next st – fig 20.

Fig. 19

Fig. 20

*Ch 2. 1 sc in the next ch-2 space on the motif. Ch 2, skip 5 sts on the edge of the cup, 1 sc in the next st on the cup – fig 21. Repeat from * once more.

There should now be 3 shell spaces attached along the cup side, with 5 stitches between each sc attachment on the cup, and gap of remaining stitches left at the end of the cup side before the central ch-1 space of the cup peak.

How many sts you have left on the cup before the ch-1 space depends on size – 4 for A, 8 for B, 8 for C, 7 for D, 9 for DD.

Fig. 21

The connection now continues onto the second cup:

Ch 2, 1 sc in the next ch-2 space on the motif – fig 22. Count an equal amount of stitches away from the ch-1 central space on the opposite cup as you had left on the first cup (4 for A, 8 for B, 8 for C, 7 for D, 9 for DD) , mark the next stitch. Ch 2 and work 1 sc into the marked stitch. Ch 2, 1 sc in the next shell.

Fig. 22

*Ch 2, skip 5 stitches on the cup, 1 sc in the next st. Ch 2, 1 sc in the next shell of the motif.

Repeat from * once more.

Ch 2, skip 5 stitches on the cup, sc in the next st (the final stitch on the row of the cup side) – fig 23.

Fig. 23

Now the entire piece will be rotated to add chains across the rest of the central motif – fig 24.

(Ch 6 – fig 24, 1 sc in the next shell) 5 times. Ch 6, 1 sc in the side of the outermost stitch of the side of the cup – figs 25-26.

Fig. 24

Fig. 25

Fig. 26

Edges

To continue, a sc edging will be worked into the side of the cup.

In single crochet down the side of the rows on this edge of the cup, work 1 sc per row side for Cup Size A (total 17), 2 sc per row side for cup sizes B-C (total 26 for B, 26 for C), and 2-3 sc per row side for sizes D-DD (total 34 sc for D at 2 per side, 42 for DD at 2 per side) – fig 27.

Depending on gauge, you may want to work 3 sc per row side for cups worked in dc – you can experiment and decide which looks best as the rest of the instructions will be flexible for this area of the design.

Fig. 27

At the edge of the cup, ch 1 and rotate the piece to work along what is now the “bottom” portion of the halter top – fig 28. 1 sc in each stitch until reaching the ch-1 space at the peak of the cup. 1 sc in the ch-1 space. 1 sc in the next st – fig 29.

Fig. 28

Fig. 29

Ch 1 for A-C sizes. Ch 2 for D-DD sizes. Skip to next cup, 1 sc in the st right before the ch-1 space. 1 sc in the next ch-1 space. Continue along the bottom edge of the next cup by working 1 sc in each st until the edge – fig 30.

Fig. 30

Ch 1, rotate to begin working along the edge of the cup – fig 31. 1-3 sc in the side of each row according to your size the same way as you worked with the other cup edge, until reaching the top corner – fig 32. Slip stitch in the top corner stitch to join, cut yarn and tie off.

Fig. 31

Fig. 32

Fig. 33

Reattach main yarn at the bottom corner of the halter top so that you are ready to work across the length of the bottom again.

Bottom:

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), 1 sc in each st until 3 stitches from the chain that runs across the middle of the two cups – fig 34.

Fig. 34

Ch 4 – 5 (4 for smaller sizes, 5 for larger), skip the next 3 stitches, the chains, and the 3 sts on the opposite side – fig 35. 1 sc in the next st and in ea remaining stitch across the bottom length.

Fig. 35

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st and in each stitch across the bottom of the first half, working 4-5 sc in the chain space, then working 1 sc in each st across the bottom of the second half – fig 36.

Fig. 36

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across.

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across – fig 37.

Fig. 37

Now there should be 3 rows total of single crochet after the 2nd chain space between the cups (not counting the row containing the chain space). To finish the bottom edge, you can add as much hdc as you like by working the following:

Row 5: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea stitch across – fig 38.  

Work an amount of rows repeating Row 5 so that the top is the length you like. I suggest the following amounts just to get started, then add more or less if you like:
XS: 3 rows, Small: 4 rows, Med-Large: 5 rows, XL-2XL: 6 rows. Do not tie off. Proceed to Side Panel instructions.

Fig. 38

Side Panels

Rotate the piece so that you are preparing to work up the side of the halter toward the motif – fig 39.

Row 1: Ch 1, 1 hdc in the side of ea row just worked along the bottom of the halter for all rows worked. For example, a total of bottom rows equaling 7 (4 sc rows, 3 hdc rows) would be 7 sc.

Fig. 39

Row 1 Ct’d: Working in the sc stitches up the side of the cup, 1 hdc in ea st until this portion covers 5 total rows of the cup – fig. 40. This will be approximately 5 more stitches for A cups, 10 more stitches for B and C cups, and 10-15 more stitches for D and DD cups (depending on how many sc’s per row end you worked).

This will extend the side panel to cover about 1/3rd of the cup length. Smaller sizes may go up to almost ½ the cup length if more coverage is needed.

The total width of these side panels can also be modified here to suit taste or desired fit – just add or remove stitches to alter the width of the side panel.

Fig. 40

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea st across.

Repeat for as many rows as you like to get enough length to reach around your ribcage.

Use the following as a guide & customize number of rows to suit your personal fit:
X-Small: 10 rows, Small: 12 rows, Med: 15, Lg: 18, XL: 21, 2XL: 23

These amounts are just a starting point, as you can do as many or as few rows as you need here.

 Cut yarn and tie off.

Attach yarn to the opposite corner and work the same amount of stitches up the side to start the second side panel. Repeat the same amount of rows as you did before to complete second side panel. Proceed to Trim & Straps Instructions.

Trim & Straps

Reattach yarn at the top corner of the panel on the side of your hook hand, Right Side of the piece facing (as shown below). Depending on how many rows on your side panel, you may finish in this spot, in which case you wouldn’t have to cut & rejoin the yarn.

Rejoined yarn at the top corner of the side panel on my hook hand side (the right side). Right Side facing.

Step 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st of the sides of the side panel rows. As before, you can add more or less to loosen or tighten the stitching depending on tension and preference – fig 41

Step 2: Now working in the side of the cup, 1 Sc in ea stitch up the side of the cup – fig 42 – until reaching the ch-6 space that connects the motif to the top.

Fig. 41

Fig. 42

Step 3: (6 sc in the next ch-6 space, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times – fig 43.

Fig. 43

Step 4 (First strap) Here we add the straps that cross in the back and then weave back and forth through the eyelets. We’ll need plenty of length to weave back and forth – I use 200 for a smalls-mediums.  200-250 is usually enough, but it also depends on how long your side panels are. If you’re not sure, err on the side of extra length as you can always wrap the ties more to get the out of the way. If they are too short, you either have to frog and try again or attach yarn at the end and lengthen by chaining and slip stitching back down the extra length. 😉

Ch 200-250 – fig 44.

Slip stitch in each ch stitch all the way back down the chain. Sc in the same stitch as last sc fig 45.

Fig. 44

Fig. 45

Step 5: (6 sc in the next ch-6 space, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times.

Step 6 (Second strap) Ch 200-250 – fig 46. Slip stitch back down, 1 sc in the same stitch as last sc.

Fig. 46

Step 7: (6 sc in the next ch-6 space, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times – fig 47.

Fig. 47

Step 8: 1 sc in ea st down the side of the next cup.

Step 9: 1 sc in ea st on the side of the panel rows – matching the number you got for the other side – fig 48.

Fig. 48

Step 10: Ch 3, rotate to work down the edge of the panel. Sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in each of the next 4-5 sts*.

(Ch 1, sk next st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 4-5 sts) rpt across the end of the side panel – fig 49. This creates the eyelets necessary to weave the straps back and forth.

*Depending on the exact number of stitches in your side panel, your eyelet number might be different. Just create as many repeats so that the skipped stitches are even across the panel. You can vary the number of stitches between eyelets to help balance the spacing.

Fig. 49

Step 11: At the end of the row, rotate to work across the bottom of the halter top. Ch 3, 1 sc in each row end stitch across the bottom of the side panel, in each stitch across the bottom of the halter, and in each row end across the other side panel. – fig 50.

Fig. 50

Step 12: Ch 3, 1 hdc in the same st. Working across the top row of the side panel, create the (4-5 hdc, ch 1, sk next st) repeats from the other side to create a matching eyelet row. At the final stitch, ch 3 and slip stitch in the first stitch of the strap edging round – fig 51.

Cute yarn and tie off.

Fig. 51

Mehndi Border (Optional)

The Mehndi Border creates a cute textural decoration of petals and pompoms across the bottom of the halter. This is a great option if you are wearing your halter alone as a crop top and want a little more coverage – it does make it a bit bulky for layering though.

This feature originally appeared in another halter design of mine, the Mehndi Halter Top!

Finished Mehndi Border (shown above)

Row 1: With RS facing, join coordinating color yarn into the bottom edge – fig 52 – and ch 3. The first ch 3 counts as the first dc. (Ch 1, sk the next st, dc in the next st) across to the other edge of the bottom – figs 53-54.

Fig. 52

Fig. 53

Fig. 54

Row 2: Ch 6, turn – fig 55, sk next 4 sts, sl st in the next st – fig 56. (Ch 6, sk next 4 sts, sl st in the next st) across – figs 57-58.

Fig. 55

Fig. 56

Fig. 57

Fig. 58

Row 3: Turn without chaining. 2 hdc in the last ch-6 loop of the previous row – figs 59-60. Work 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc in the same loop. 1 hdc in the same space – fig 61. YO, draw up a loop in the same ch-6 space. YO, draw up a loop in the next ch-6 space – fig 62. YO and draw through all 5 lps on the hook – 1 hdc2tog over 2 ch-6 spaces – fig 63. (1 hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc2tog over the next 2 spaces) in ea ch-6 space across, forming the “petals” of the border design. 1 hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc in the last ch-6 space – fig 64. Sl  st in the side of the last dc of the first row.

Fig. 59

Fig. 60

Fig. 61

Fig. 62

Fig. 63

Fig. 64

Cut yarn and tie off if changing to 2nd accent color. If not, then turn without chaining to begin Row 4.

The petals will likely be slanted or curly from working – take the middle tr stitch and stretch them until evenly placed on the spaces and straightened – fig 65.

Fig. 65

Row 4: Turn, join new color at the middle tr st of the first petal. If using same color, sl st to that stitch. Ch 7 ( counts as ch-5 + first 2 ch of pompom st) – fig 66. *Dc3tog  in the 2nd ch from the hook. Ch 2, Dc3tog in the top of the previous cluster. Slip stitch in the base of the FIRST cluster, bringing the two dc clusters together to form two halves of a ball* – from * to * is your pompom stitch (see tutorial, Pg. 22). Ch 5, sl st in the 2nd treble of the next petal – fig 67.  (Ch 7, pom pom stitch, ch 5, sl st in the 2nd tr of the next petal) repeat across – fig 68.

Fig. 66

Fig. 67

Fig. 68

Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

To Wear

Weave in all remaining ends. The two long ties at the top of the motif cross and/or tie at the neck, then cross over again to lace down the eyelets of the side panels.

I hope you have as much fun making & wearing this top as I did designing it! I love the flattering way the border flares out from the natural waist, which makes it so versatile as a crop top for higher waisted skirts and pants – while you can also leave off the border entirely for a perfect layering bralette 🙂

-MF

Pom Pom Stitch Tutorial

/ reginaalexisweiss / 1 Comment

The Pom Pom Stitch is one of the first crochet textural details I learned, and I was so excited to discover it – easy, cute, and almost perfectly round, the pom pom bobble is made of two double crochet clusters stacked together and can be inserted into projects for beautiful accents and trims.

Crochet really is a magic art in my opinion – a never-ending world of things to learn and try and endless combinations of techniques makes this hobby perfect for the obsessively curious and tactile artist in me.

I first put the Pom Pom stitch into a project long ago in an ancient free post about making a bikini out of cotton recycled sweater yarn. That was when I came up with the border design which would eventually trim the Mehndi Halter Top and Plus Size Mehndi patterns, and now again in my latest halter top as well!

Anyway, it’s time I published the Pom Pom Stitch Tutorial here on the blog for everyone to try, and I’ve got a brand new demo video to go along with it – you can watch at the bottom of the post after the written and photo tutorial which starts now!

Pom Pom Stitch

The pompom stitch uses two clusters of double crochet stitches stacked on top of each other to form a round ball which makes a fun border decoration. For this example I’m placing them on chain spaces, but you can place them anywhere as long as you work the chain 2 to start as indicated in Step 1. Here’s how to work it:

Step 1: Work the amount of stitches desired until reaching the point to place the pompom. Ch 2 to count as the beginning of the pompom stitch. *Yarn over and insert hook in the 2nd ch from the hook. Draw up a loop, YO, pull through 2 lps on the hook. Repeat twice more into the same stitch, leaving the last lp of each dc on the hook for each stitch.  You should have 4 lps on the hook.

YO once more and pull through all 4 lps on the hook. One dc3tog made.

Step 2: Ch 2, to gain height for the second cluster.

Step 3: Working into the TOP of the last cluster, make another dc3tog.

Step 4: Insert hook into the same stitch that you worked your FIRST cluster and make a slip stitch, bringing the two clusters together to form two halves of a ball – fig 74.

Step 5: Finish the repeat by chaining enough to get to the next pom pom (or as indicated in pattern). Here it’s shown worked into the Mehndi Border!

Tip: Keeping your clusters tight and wet blocking the border when you are finished helps the pompoms look nice and round!

Pom Pom Stitch Video Demo

The demo for the video goes over the Pom Pom stitch as it occurs on the Mehndi Border, but remember you can place them anywhere you like by starting with just the 2 chain stitches and then working the pompom on those 🙂

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and learned something new, and as always if you have any questions or feedback please leave them in the comments! <3 Thanks for visiting 🙂

-MF