Tree of Life Mandala

Who doesn’t love trees?! Besides being one of the most successful life forms on Earth, trees are the lungs of our planet. Majestic and sometimes dangerous they are also, but I think one of the main reasons we humans have such a symbolic attachment to the Tree as a concept is that we tend to project ourselves onto them.

Gazing at the canopy – pictured in the Lotus Duster

With their roots-like-feet, their strong trunk torsos, and their reaching arms of branches, it’s easy to turn them into a metaphor against which we contrast our own sense of existence. They grow taller as they age, they occur in all environments, they group themselves together, and recent science has even discovered that they communicate with each other.

(There’s a great little article about tree communications here, referencing a book I’d quite like to read sometime)

Ancient photo of me, up a tree, wearing the Woodsman’s Wife Ruana

For me, it has always seemed natural to speak with trees. And yeah… to hug them. πŸ™‚ I’ve always felt that they had a Presence which ought to always be acknowledged and I’ve been drawn to tree and forest imagery my whole life. I was stoked when I found this adorable crocheted Tree of Life motif from 365 Crochet and instantly tried it out as a feature of one of my pixie belts. It’s quite an excellent little free pattern!

Pictured is Hickory, one of my original crocheted utility pocket belts. I have an in-depth tutorial series on how to make your own unique Pixie Pocket belt here on the blog and also available as a purchasable, ad-free PDF.

The Tree of Life concept occurs in several cultural stories. My familiarity with it came originally from Yggdrasil, the World Tree of Norse mythology that holds all the worlds from its roots to its branches. Since I’m so attached to this symbolism, I wanted to attempt my own crocheted version of the Tree of Life.

The Tree of Life mandala features an intricate central tree motif, worked in the round using a variety of crochet stitches. The intertwining branches are worked in layers, with double-treble stitches criss-crossing and forming the signature woven look of the Tree of Life symbolism. Though it looks complex, the central motif is easy when taken step by step, especially since the tutorial includes 50+ detailed tutorial photos with figure references to the written pattern!

Once I had honed my Tree pattern to satisfaction, I realized the mandala version would make a perfect dreamcatcher-style wall hanging and set about to providing this FREE tutorial for the project! You can also buy the downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF file for this crochet pattern from my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern Store.

I also hastened to create a video tutorial – you can find that for free here!

This one is made with Malabrigo Rios, which I am now hooked on.

I’ve got a few more concepts cooked up for this pretty little piece in the future that I’m very excited about πŸ˜‰ So be sure to subscribe to my blog and follow me on Facebook!

Tree of Life Mandala Wall Hanging

Materials:
4.50 mm hook
#4 worsted weight yarn in solid color – I used Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton
#3 or #4 weight yarn in accent color – I used King Cole Riot DK for the rainbow Tree and Malabrigo Rios for the autumnal Tree.
1 14” bamboo or wood hoop (I used an embroidery hoop from the hobby store)
Scissors & Tapestry needle

Stitches and Techniques:
Magic Ring – A short tutorial can be found under this pattern on my blog.
Hdc – half double crochet
Ch – chain
Sl st – Slip Stitch
Sc – Single crochet
Dc – Double crochet
Tr – treble crochet (YO x 2, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 loops x 3)
Dtr – double treble crochet (YO x 3, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 loops x 4)

Gauge: Not critical. The trunk of the tree should be about 1.25 inches in width and the tree itself should be about 4.5 inches tall from root to top branch after Round 3.

Notes:
The outer yarn used to border the Tree of Life can be #3 or #4 weight. If using a thick and/or stiffer #4 weight, check to make sure your piece isn’t getting too big for the hoop. You may need to omit a round of solid Hdc – the mandala needs to stretch tightly over the hoop once finished.

Instructions

Make Magic Ring – fig. 1

Fig. 1

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first hdc), 12 hdc into the ring – fig.2. Join with a sl st in the first hdc of the round. Tighten the ring to close – fig.3

Fig. 2

A picture containing floor, ground

Description automatically generated

Fig. 3

Rnd 2: Sl st in the next  st, 1 sc in the next st. (1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc) in the next st – fig. 4. 1 sc in the next st, sl st in ea of the next 2 sts – fig. 5. 1 sc in the next st, hdc in the next st. (1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc) in the next st. 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st. Sl st in the next st. – fig. 6

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

Rnd 3:  LIMBS: Sl st in the next 3 sts. – fig 7. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st – fig 8. Ch 2 – fig 9, 1 dc in the side of last dc. Ch 3 – fig 10. Slip stitch back down the side of the dc’s. (1st limb made) – fig 11. Sl st in the next st. *Ch 2 – fig 12, dc in the same st. (Ch 2, dc in the side of last dc) twice – fig 13. Ch 3. Slip stitch back down the sides of the dc’s, sl st in next st. – fig 14. (2nd limb made). Repeat from * for 3rd limb – fig. 15. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. Ch 2, 1 dc in the side of the last dc. Ch 3 – fig 16. Slip stitch back down the side of the dc’s (4th limb made) – fig 17. Sl st in the next 5 sts. – fig 18.

A picture containing floor

Description automatically generated

Fig. 7

Fig. 8

Fig. 9

A picture containing floor, ground, grass

Description automatically generated

Fig. 10

Fig. 11

Fig. 12

A picture containing floor, ground

Description automatically generated

Fig. 13

A picture containing grass

Description automatically generated

Fig. 14

Fig. 15

Fig. 16

A picture containing animal

Description automatically generated

Fig. 17

Fig. 18

Rnd 3 Ct’d: ROOTS: *Ch 2, dc in the same st. – fig 19, Ch 3 – fig 20, slip st down the side of the dc – fig 21. Sl st in the next st. Rpt from * 3 more times. – figs 22-24. Sl st in the next 3 sts.

Fig. 19

Fig. 20

A picture containing floor, ground

Description automatically generated

Fig. 21

Fig. 22

Fig. 23

A picture containing floor

Description automatically generated

Fig. 24

Rnd 4: Ch 5 – fig 25, sc in the ch-3 loop  at the top of the 1st limb – fig 26. Ch 3 – fig 27, double treble (dtr) in the middle of the 2nd limb – fig 2829. Ch 3 – fig 30, dtr in the middle of the 1st limb – fig 31. Ch 3, sc in the ch-3 loop at the top of the 2nd limb – fig 32. Ch 3, dtr in the middle of the 3rd limb – fig 33. Ch 3, dtr in the middle of the 2nd limb – figs 34-35. Ch 3, sc in the ch-3 loop at the top of the 3rd limb. Ch 3 – fig 36, dtr in the middle of the 4th limb – fig 40. Ch 3, dtr in the middle of the 3rd limb. Ch 3 – fig 41, sc in the ch-3 loop at the top of the 4th limb. Ch 5 – fig 42, sl st one st away from the base of the 4th limb. Sl st in the next 3 sts – fig 43.

A picture containing floor, ground

Description automatically generated

Fig. 25

Fig. 26

Fig. 27

Fig. 28 – YO 3 times to begin dtr

Fig. 29 – insert hook into the middle of 2nd limb, draw up a loop. (YO and draw through 2 loops) 4 times. Dtr made.

A picture containing outdoor

Description automatically generated

Fig. 30

Fig. 31

A picture containing floor

Description automatically generated

Fig. 32

A picture containing metalware, floor, ground

Description automatically generated

Fig. 33

Fig. 34

A picture containing metalware

Description automatically generated

Fig. 35

Fig. 36

A picture containing floor

Description automatically generated

Fig. 40

Fig. 41

A picture containing floor, table, indoor

Description automatically generated

Fig. 42

A close up of a rope

Description automatically generated

Fig. 43

Rnd 5: Sl st up the ch sts on the side of the 1st root. Sl st into the ch-3 loop at the top – fig 44. Ch 3, (counts as first hdc + ch-1), hdc in the same space – fig 45. (Ch 3, 1 hdc in the next ch-3 loop. Ch 1, 1 hdc in the same sp) 3 times. Ch 8 – fig 46-47. (1 dc in the next ch-3 space between branches – fig 48, ch 2, 1 dc in the same space) 9 times – fig 49. Ch 8. Sl st in the 2nd ch of beginning ch-3 to join – fig 50.

Fig. 44

A picture containing metalware, floor, chain

Description automatically generated

Fig. 45

A picture containing floor

Description automatically generated

Fig. 46

Fig.47

A picture containing metalware, chain

Description automatically generated

Fig. 48

A picture containing floor, table

Description automatically generated

Fig. 49

Fig. 50

Rnd 6 (Change color): With new yarn, join in the 5th ch-2 space of previous round – positioning your hook in the middle of the branches. Ch 2 – fig 51 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same space. (4 hdc in the next ch-2 space) 4 times – fig 52.  10 hdc in the next ch-8 space – fig 53. (1 hdc in the ch-1 space of the next root. 3 hdc in the next ch-3 space- fig 54.) 3 times. 1 hdc in the next ch-1 space. 10 hdc in the next ch-8 space – fig 55. (4 hdc in the next ch-2 space) 4 times. 3 hdc in the next space, join with a sl st to the first hdc of the rnd – fig 56. – 70 sts

A chain on a table

Description automatically generated

Fig. 51

A chain on a table

Description automatically generated

Fig. 52

A picture containing table

Description automatically generated

Fig. 53

A picture containing table, metalware, floor

Description automatically generated

Fig. 54

A picture containing table, floor, sitting, metalware

Description automatically generated

Fig. 55

A picture containing table, floor, indoor, metalware

Description automatically generated

Fig. 56

Rnd 7: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 5 sts. 2 hdc in the next st – fig 57. (1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st – fig 58.– 80 sts

Fig. 57

Fig. 58

Rnd 8: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – fig 59 – 90 sts

Fig. 59

Rnd 9: Ch 1 (does not count), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – fig 60 -– 100 sts

Fig. 60

Rnd 10: Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch 1). Dc in the same st. (Sk next 2 sts, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc in the next st) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4.

Rnd 11: Sl st to the next ch-2 space. Ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch 2). Dc in the same space. (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc in the next space) around. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. – fig 61.

A picture containing table, floor, plate, ground

Description automatically generated

Fig. 61

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for attaching – fig 62. Weave in other ends.

A picture containing table

Description automatically generated

Fig. 62

Attaching & Finishing

Using the long tail left from Round 11, thread yarn on a tapestry needle. Center your piece inside the hoop – fig 63.

A picture containing table, plate, indoor, chocolate

Description automatically generated

Fig. 63

Stitch the piece onto the hoop, making your needle pass around the hoop and under the last row of the piece, between the dc’s (not the chain spaces). Work the piece all the way around, adjusting tension and tightening as needed to create an even appearance. The piece will be stretched! – fig 64 – 66

A picture containing table, sitting, ground

Description automatically generated

Fig. 64

A picture containing floor, table, indoor, sitting

Description automatically generated

Fig. 65

A picture containing table, plate, floor

Description automatically generated

Fig. 66

To make sure my tension is even, I like to cut another long strand of thread and go back over the piece in the opposite direction – fig 67. This is optional.

A picture containing table, floor

Description automatically generated

Fig. 67

Border Round:
With new yarn, attach to a ch-2 space on Rnd 11. Working by inserting the hook under both the chain-2 space and under the hoop, YO and draw up a loop. Work 1 hdc around the hoop and the chain space. The entire border round works around the hoop – this can be a little tricky at first, but be patient! It gets easier. In the same chain space, work 1 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 1 dc, and 1 hdc – fig. 68. Sc between the next pair of dc’s – fig 69. *(1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc) in the next ch 2 space, 1 sc between the next 2 dc sts. Rpt from * around. – figs 70-71

A picture containing table, ground

Description automatically generated

Fig. 68

A picture containing person, food, giraffe, table

Description automatically generated

Fig. 69

A picture containing table

Description automatically generated

Fig. 70

A picture containing floor, table, indoor

Description automatically generated

Fig. 71

Join the final round with a slip stitch in the first hdc. Cut yarn and tie off, weave in all remaining ends. You could also add tassels, fringe, extra leaves (I have a good candidate, a free pattern for leaves), or charms to personalize your new Tree of Life wall hanging!

Thanks, trees. You guys are awesome.

Tree hugging in the Elf Coat

– MF

Advertisements

Costume Mega Tail

Fur yarn seems to be something I always have a lot of. In addition to using it to trim Trickster Hoods, wacky coats, and Pixie Belts, I also occasionally use it to make costume ears and tails. My first foray into tail making was using crochet, as it was certainly easier for me at the time to deal with the nuisance of all that funky hair using a technique with which I was very confident.

The resulting little fox tail (I call it the chibi tail) was clever, IMHO, made with super soft Lion Brand Romance and ending in a little clip so it could be attached to a belt. But it was a bit stiff, and I decided knitting was really the way to go for these fun and cruelty-free costume elements.

I made a couple more – the tail on the left is made with Lion Brand Fun Fur, knitted to look like a raccoon, the tail on the right is Lion Brand Romance again, in sweet fantastical pastels. Both are stuffed with lightweight polyester fiber stuffing and clippable, like the first, onto belt or pants.

The pastel tail is pretty long, and very slinky and soft. After that one, I went down the rabbit hole. Er, possibly the fox hole.

I had A LOT of Lion Brand Pelt in similar colors. What if I made a really BIG tail, so it would look proportionate to the human body?

So, as you can see, I did that. And this year’s Halloween costume was born. To be specific, I finished the humongous tail less than 24 hours before the costume party! πŸ˜€

I dubbed my costume “Forest Witch” but mostly I was referred to as the Squirrel Lady which I am also 100% satisfied with πŸ˜‰ . This is one of the most handmade of all costumes I’ve ever done, so I’m going to feature some of the elements involved before writing out my notes on making the Tail toward the end of the post – keep reading for the free pattern! You can also favorite this project on Ravelry for reference later.

It was cold and rainy enough the day of the party to wear my super woodsy version of the Boho Fringe Poncho, made with different scrap bulky and super bulky yarns, then trimmed with plain fringe and woven with a super textured handspun art yarn. I also added a leafy drawstring tie to the top of this piece, similar to the one made for the Rhiannon Cowl. I’m so glad to have added this poncho to the ensemble, because it hasn’t really seen the light of day since I made it.

Underneath I wore the dress I had refashioned from a few thrift store pieces – I cut the green top and the brown and purple paisley skirt up joined them using hairpin lace, then added doily accents – all crocheted in gray, upcycled sweater yarn. You can read more about this refashion project here. Layered under the dress is a thrifted skirt that I tie-dyed in browns.

The belt sports several accessories beside the tail – one of them is a crocheted woolen pouch, mounted on loops so that it can slide onto a belt. This pattern is a piece of Lilla Bjorn’s Dandelion Mandala Overlay. The knife is an antique piece made with a real fawn’s hoof found for me by a friend. It’s not handmade by me, it’s just totally wicked so I wanted to mention it πŸ˜‰

It was terribly overcast all day, so my indoors photoshoot is very dark (and consequently grainy.. just pretend it’s a spooky filter effect, okay?) and you probably can’t see the faux dreads underneath my hair very well, but they are there and I made those too! From Jacob wool, dyed brown and boiled in hot water to felt them making long woolen cords, then attached to and elastic headband and decorated with beads and feathers. The hat on top sports a pair of crocheted fur yarn ears, mounted on an elastic band around the crown of the hat.

The witch hat, unfortunately is not handmade. I attempted to finish the black Hedge Witch Hat for this ensemble in time for the party, but was too busy knitting this big chunky baby…

Speaking of which, how about that tutorial? I’m afraid all I can offer is my notes, since this was not intended to be a full-scale pattern, but it’s pretty straightforward knitting if you can stand trying to see your way around all that fur.

Costume Mega Tail Tutorial

Materials:
US Size 9 double pointed knitting needles (1 set) US size 9 circular needles, 24″
Lion Brand Pelt (#5, 50 g / 47 yds) 4 skeins “Sable”, 4 skeins “Fisher”
Lion Brand Fun Fur, (#5 bulky, 40 g / 57 yards) 1 skein “Ginger”
Lion Brand Romance (#6 super bulky, 50 g / 27 yards) 1 skein “Truffle”, 1 skein “Champagne”
(Or, in substitute, around 550 yards total of any fur yarn)
Metal clasp
~10-15 oz Polyester Fiberfill batting
Scissors and Tapestry needle

With fur yarn and DPNs, Cast On 18 sts. Knitting in the round:
Row 1: *K, M1 increase* Rpt around – 27 sts
Row 2; *K2, M1 increase* Rpt around – 36 sts
Row 3: *K3, M1 increase* Rpt around – 45 sts
Row 4: *K4, M1 increase* Rpt around – 54 sts
Row 5: *K5, M1 increase* Rpt around – 63 sts
Row 6: *K6, M1 increase* Rpt around – 72 sts

Switch to circular needles.
Rows 7 – Infinity: Knit around. Change colors when necessary or desired.

I knit this piece to a length of about 55″. When ready to finish off:

Switch back to the Double Pointed needles

3rd to last Row: *K2, K2together decrease* Rpt around.
2nd to last Row: *K1, K2together decrease* Rpt around.
Last Row: *K2tog decrease* around. Cut yarn leaving a long piece for sewing. Thread the yarn into a tapestry needle and pass the yarn through each loop on the needles, catching the live stitches on the yarn tail. Once all stitches are threaded, pull the DPNS out and use the thread to cinch the stitches shut. Make some firm weavings across this circle to secure shut, then weave in ends and cut.

To finish the piece, Weave in all yarn ends. I used a wig brush at this stage to brush all the fur loose that had gotten trapped in between stitches to make it thicker and fluffier. Then, take the polyester fiberfill and stuff through the open end. Be careful not to overstuff – it really needs less than you think, and overdoing it will cause the piece to be too stiff and therefore less realistic looking.

Once the piece is stuffed, thread a long piece of fur yarn onto a tapestry needle and sew the open end shut, then sew onto the clasp. I used a pretty small metal lobster style clasp, available with the metal findings in most hobby stores. This allows you to attach the tail to a belt (recommended – it’s heavy) or to pants (works better with smaller ones, but if you’re brave enough…)

One last very necessary addition to this monstrosity is left! Using a crochet hook, I loosely threaded a length of bronze ribbon yarn through the knit stitches toward the end of the tail, weaving in and out all around the circumference, then tying the ends in a knot. After all, I had to have some way to keep this thing from getting super wet and mucky by dragging on the ground!

I used the tied length of ribbon as a handle to maneuver the thing all night (and dance with it – SO MUCH FUN.) Also occasionally to bop people in the face with the fluffyness. When I needed both hands free, I wrapped the ribbon into my belt in the front to secure it.

I probably don’t need to tell you that I had too much fun with it πŸ˜‰ And I hope you will too, if you decide to make one for yourself ❀ If you have any questions on how I did anything in this semi-slap-dash tutorial thingy, leave me a comment πŸ™‚

❀
-MF

P.S – as a big and unintended bonus, post-costume-party this thing turned out to be an excellent body pillow as well, lol!

Lotus Mandala Video Tutorial Part 1

Well, I’m excited to announce that my first full-length video tutorial is underway! Not that I haven’t made videos before, but this is the first time I’ve filmed with the intent of capturing a whole pattern on video. After many moons of wanting to do it, I’ve started the tutorial for the Lotus Mandala Duster design and I have finished Part 1 to share with you today!

I avoided video tutorials for a long time simply because they were a whole new thing that I had to learn. Also, I hate the sound of my own voice πŸ˜› But because I really wanted to bring the Lotus Duster into the reach of people who can only crochet from videos, I bootstrapped up and began this new venture!

The goal of this tutorial is to cover the first 16 rounds of the Lotus Mandala. These first 16 rounds are the exact same instructions, whether you are doing the Lotus Duster or the Lotus Vest (two separate but sister patterns) and are perhaps the most challenging rounds, technically speaking, within the design. So even though the yarn used in the tutorial is for the Duster, you can follow the same instructions through Round 16 if you are working the vest πŸ™‚

Part 1, which I am sharing today, consists of Rounds 1 – 8 of the Lotus Mandala. I do intend on finishing out the Duster in video tutorials in later parts, but we’ll cross that bridge eventually, probably.

UPDATE: Part 2 with Rounds 9-16 is now available!

So without further ado, here is the Lotus Mandala Video Tutorial Part 1! ❀ Directly below this paragraph you can find links to the patterns mentioned above as well as their related add-ons, frequently asked questions, and tutorial links from the video:

Lotus Mandala Duster
Lotus Mandala Vest
Lotus Duster Hood
Lotus Mandala Vest Cardigan Sleeves
Lotus Mandala Vest FAQ
Lotus Duster FAQ

Chain and Stitch Join Tutorial

Everything You Need to Know to Start Recycling Sweater Yarn

I hope you enjoyed this video and if you have feedback or questions please feel free to leave them in the comments! ❀

Happy Stitching,

MF

Rhiannon Cowl Crochet Pattern

RHC3

Eons ago (it seems) I designed a hooded cowl that was both simply constructed and could be worn several different ways. It started as just a scrap-buster, and I made a couple with random yarns and colors. The result was a fun project that was easy enough for beginner crocheters but was more interesting than just a plain old scarf. I dubbed it the Rhiannon Cowl after one of my favorite mythological deities.

HarvestSpirit3

And yeah, after the song too. Although I’m enough of a fantasy nerd that I knew about the goddess before I knew about the pop song.  But I digress.

RHC1

That was 2015. It didn’t take long before my pattern writing style changed, and I started rebooting some of my older files – the Rhiannon Cowl has been on the makeover list for a LONG time, partly because I have intended to make it available for free.

Today I’m excited to finally be both making over the pattern file AND releasing this crochet pattern here for free on my blog! Keep reading for the FULL pattern PLUS tutorial photos, or get the spiffy new downloadable, ad-free file now available in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store πŸ™‚ 

RHC12

I’ve made a couple changes to the pattern itself – I eliminated the #5 bulky weight instructions in favor of adding a new size: Large. This size is easier to wear doubled up (the Small can be a little tight that way) and will be wearable as a vest for a wider range of bodies.

I also got rid of the specific yarn requirements. I’ve always thought this pattern looks best as a scrap-buster and so I’ve left the yarn requirements general to reflect that – I used *mostly* worsted weight but some bulky weight sneaked in too and I think it looks great that way πŸ™‚

RHC10

I hope you like this fun, quick, fantasy inspired project as much as I do (now that its been gussied up) ❀

RHCCover1.1

Materials:
5.00 mm hook
500-800 yds worsted weight yarn – spare yarns work great for this piece!
Scissors
Tapestry Needle

Gauge: 6 sts and 3 rows = 2”

Finished Measurements:
Small- Approx. 72” circumference at the front
                ~ 40” circumference at the back
                ~ 15” wide
Large- Approx. 90” circumference at the front
                ~ 50” circumference at the back
                ~15” wide

DSC_0079

Stitches and Abbreviations:

st / sts: stitch/stitches

DCh: double chain – see my tutorial here:
                http://bit.ly/33nFcYe

If preferred, a regular chain stitch may be substituted for the double chain

ch: chain.

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

tr: treble crochet

sk: skip

rpt: repeat

rnd: round

ea: each

(parentheses): instructions inside parentheses are to be repeated the number of times indicated just outside the parentheses. When parentheses are followed by β€œaround” it means repeat the instructions until you finish the entire round.

beg: beginning. Refers to the first stitch or set of stitches made for the current row or round, i.e – β€œbeg ch-4” refers to the 4 chain stitches made at the beginning of the round you are working.

counts as / does not count as… : The first chain stitches at the beginning of the round are to gain height to start your round. Because this chain sequence is the same height as the stitches, it occasionally counts as the first stitch of the round and will be the stitch to which you join the end of your round.  If this chain does not count as the first stitch, you will skip it completely and join the end of your round to the next stitch after the chain stitches.

Size Changes: This pattern is written for two sizes: Small and Large. The instructions are written so that whenever there are two different instructions (a size change) those changes appear concurrently separated by a comma. Smalls follow the first number given, Larges follow the second number. So in β€œ(1 dc into each of the next 9 sts, 2 dc into the next st) 15, 19 times.” Β Smalls will repeat within parentheses 15 times, Larges will repeat 19 times.

Instructions:

Foundation:  DCh 160, 200. Join with a slip stitch to the first DCh stitch to form a loop. Be careful not to twist.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st as join. 1 dc  in ea of the next 159, 199 sts. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round.  – 160, 200 sts

Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 79, 99 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 3: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc into the same st as join. 1 dc into each of the next 159, 199 Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round.

Rnd 4: Rpt Rnd 2.

Rnd 5: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc , dc into the same st as join. 1 Dc into each of the next 8 stitches, 2 dc into the next st. (1 dc into each of the next 9 sts, 2 dc into the next st) 15, 19 times. Join with a slip st in the first dc of the round. – 176, 220 sts

Rnd 6: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 87, 109 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 7: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc into the same st as join. 1 dc into each of the next 175, 219 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. –  176, 220 sts

Rnd 8: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 87, 109 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 9: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st as join. 1 dc into ea of the next 9 sts, 2 dc in the next st. (1 dc into ea of the next 10 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 15, 19 times. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. – 192, 240 sts

Rnd 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 95, 119 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 11: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. 1 dc in each of the next 191, 239 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. – 192, 240 sts

Rnd  12: Rpt Rnd 10.

Rnd 13: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 dc in the next st. (1 dc into ea of the next 11 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 15, 19 times. – 208, 260 sts

Rnd 14: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 103, 129 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 15: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. Work 1 dc in ea of the next 207, 259 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round.

Rnd 16: Rpt Rnd 14. Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Hood

Fold in the piece in half, aligning the fold along the joining seam. Join new yarn at this corner – you will be crocheting into two layers of the scarf at once. MAKE SURE you are crocheting into the foundation round, NOT round 16. 

Rnd 17: (Work 1 sl st into the next st, working into both layers) 25 times. Ch 3.

Now working in only ONE layer and inserting hook into the bottom of each foundation chain stitch, (sk next st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 52, 72 times. Sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, ch 1. Join with the first ch-1 of the round.

The circle of stitches worked through one layer only will form the base of the next round – you will no longer be working into the 26 stitch seam that forms the back of the hood.

Rnd 18: Ch 3, dc in the same st and in ea st around.  sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Leaf Motif Tie

1st Leaf: Ch 5. Join with a sl st to form a ring. Ch 3 – counts as first dc, 6 dc, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, 7 dc into the ring. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

To begin the double chain, insert hook into one loop of the stitch below the slip stitch join and work one sc. Insert hook into the side bar of the single crochet. Draw up a loop (2 lps on hook). Yarn over and draw through two loops on the hook (one DCh stitch completed).  Double chain 160, 200.

2nd Leaf. – At the end of the double chain, Ch 5. Join with a sl stitch to the 5th ch from the hook to form a ring. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 6 dc, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, 7 dc into the ring. Join with a sl st to the first dc, then secure the top of the leaf onto the DCh cord with another slip stitch. Cut yarn and tie off.

Weave in all yarn ends!

Starting at the base of the hood, weave half of the tie in and out of the spaces between the dc stitches of Rnd 17. Weave the other half through the spaces of the opposite side. Ta-da! Your brand new cowl awaits your woodland adventures!

Wear it as a hood with the drawstring tied to form a warm capelet scarf – hood down, it becomes a shawl! Place the hood on from the back and place arms through the back opening to wear as a scarf vest, or double up the scarf loop around the neck for extra toastiness.

My style might change, but I still make all the same faces when I photograph myself πŸ˜› Cheers!

-MF

Daydreamer Poncho Revamp

Last summer I started working on the Daydreamer Poncho design, which I imagined as a fun lightweight accessory which would be good for using up spare bits of yarn and playing with color. The final product, or at least semi-final, came out great and I enjoyed the actual crocheting of the design as well, but I didn’t use scraps because I wanted to create a more streamlined product.

Mistake.

Okay, well, not mistake. I like the original, but I still felt it the design wanted to be more colorful and less structured. So I did another version recently, using a bunch of little scrap yarn balls and allowing myself to really play with color.

As I was making this piece, it occurred to me that it would also make a pretty cute bohemian skirt! Since it has a drawstring at the collar (or in this case, the waist) it was so easy to convert πŸ˜€ I left off the fringe for this one, and once I finished I just couldn’t wait to get it pictured.

So, I have updated the pattern with this new style! The pattern update isn’t much more than new pictures (I altered two other little rounds, to make it looser at the shoulders/hips) but I do think it’s a little more creatively inspiring. I hope that either way you love making it! ❀

Get the PDF for the Daydreamer Poncho in my Ravelry Store or Etsy Shop, or read the original info on this design on my blog.

This design uses a lot of Chain and Stitch joins, which are a great crochet trick to have in your skill box – you can find a FREE tutorial for that technique right here on my blog as well!

As always ,thank you for visiting my blog and supporting my art! ❀ Much love,

MF

Elf Coat Corset Lacing

One extra element I’ve been dying to get worked out on my Elf Coat design (available for FREE here on my blog in sizes Small, Medium, and Large) was the corset back lacing. Remember the original, original draft of this design? It featured a corset back, and this newer iteration was to get the same treatment.

The first Elf Coat didn’t, however, because at certain points I just HAVE to call something done and move on for a minute. Well, here I am having finally finished the second Elf Coat in size Medium (like… 6 months later) and it was time.

And. I. Am. In. LOVE with how it worked out, true to the vision I had in my head. Don’t you just love it when that happens? This extra feature makes the coat more adjustable and definitely flatters even more! Here’s how to do it!

Corset Back Lacing

On the back of the finished Elf Coat, locate the central panel in the series. Locate the two panels on either side of the central panel, then mark the stitches on the two outer edges of these panels with a stitch marker. I went just a few stitches outside of this point even, but you can adjust based on how much you wish to be able to cinch the coat. We will be working 4 rows of LDC directly into the TKS, running vertically up the back, then repeating this process on the mirror side.

With the 3.50 hook and yarn, attach at the marked stitch by inserting the hook through the two front bars of the knit stitch, as if they were the two top bars of a regular crochet stitch.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). LDC in the next 41 sts. You may also alter the length of the corset backing, if your coat is longer or you want a higher cinch.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Sk next st, LDC in the next 38 sts. Sk next st, LDC in the last st.

Row 3: Ch 3, turn. Sk next st, LDC in the next 2 sts. Ch 1, sk next st. (LDC in the next 4 sts, ch 1, sk next st) 6 times. LDC in the next 3 sts.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn. Sk next st, LDC in the next 35 sts, sk next st. LDC in the last st.

Repeat Rows 1 -4 on the opposite side at the point marked.

Cut yarn and tie off, weave in all ends. I used a mesh/ribbon yarn to lace mine!

As I mentioned in the intro, this does not spell the end of the Elf Coat saga I am sure – I would also like to add pockets, maybe a tie belt option…. fur trim… you name it!

-MF

Elf Coat Pattern: Large

Size pictured: medium

Thanks to all the beautiful people out there who expressed love and enthusiasm for the Elf Coat saga, I have managed to finish writing the Large size pattern! I really enjoyed working on this design, particularly gathering inspiration and feedback from social media, as it evolved and transformed for me. And, I’m sure it isn’t done yet!

The downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF pattern is also available for purchase now in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Pattern Store, and includes all three sizes plus the tutorial for the corset back!

You can also find the sizes Small and Medium patterns for FREE on my blog. If you want to be in the loop on everything I’m working on be sure to follow my Facebook page here and join my Magical Crochet FB group here!

Size pictured: small

Elf Coat Pattern: Large

Materials

6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook
King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic – color shown is Autumn) – 16 skeins
Gauge for Riot DK: 9 sts & 10 rows = 2” (top of ea block = 3.5”)
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 20 skeins
Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”

Sizes: Large. (Small and Medium can be found on my blog for free as well!

Finished Measurements:
Waist: 45”
Bust: ~ 45”
Hip: ~ 47”
Sleeve: 22β€³ (measured armpit to hem), 22”, 22”
Length: ~37”

This pattern is based on the number of wedges in the skirt. Large is made from a 13-wedge skirt (7 pointed, 6 simple). Shown below is a size Small, made from 9 wedges.

Size Medium: 5 pointed wedges, 6 simple wedges

Notes on yarn, gauge, and sizing:

Yarn: I chose King Cole Riot DK yarn for this pattern because of it’s long color changes and pretty one-ply structure that makes the colors and the stitches well defined. The DK weight and 30% wool content creates a sleek and lightweight fabric that is also very warm. However, the big box hobby stores in the U.S do not carry this yarn – I get it from a UK website called LoveKnitting.com (which I highly recommend!).

So, I wanted to find a substitute yarn that is more commercially available and the closest I could find was Red Heart Unforgettable, which also looks gorgeous for this design. RH Unforgettable is 100% acrylic, which has the benefit of zero felting, and being allergy/vegan friendly. It is also a #4 weight yarn which means it will gauge differently.

Gauge: Since the two yarns gauge differently, I have listed the gauges for each yarn individually under the materials section. These are using the 6.50 mm hook listed. If you use Unforgettable following it’s gauge, you can get a slightly bigger coat using the same stitch counts listed in the pattern.

9 stitches = 2β€³ in Riot DK

10 rows = 2β€³ in Riot DK

8 sts = 2β€³ in RH Unforgettable. It’s really more like 8.5 stitches, but we’re calling it 8 because of stretch!

9 rows = 2β€³

 It’s also an option to change the hook size for Unforgettable to obtain the gauge given for Riot DK, if you want to use the alternate yarn but still get the size pictured.

NOTE FOR LEFTIES: If you are left-handed, your pattern pieces will be mirrored – for instance, your left panel for the torso of the jacket will be worked from the Right Panel pattern, and vice versa.

Techniques Used:

Chain (ch)
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) – stitch used for each coat piece. Tutorial can be found on my blog here:  https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Increase (TKS inc): Increasing in Tunisian Knit Stitch. Tutorial here: – https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Decrease (TKS dec): Decreasing in Tunisian Knit stitch – tutorial here: https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
Linked Double Crochet (LDC): Creating a row of double crochet that are linked in the middle. Tutorial here:  https://moralefiber.blog/2018/02/02/linked-double-crochet-tutorial/
Slip Stitch (Sl st): Used selectively for seaming
Whip Stitch: Sewing stitch made with a tapestry needle with yarn as thread, used for seaming.

Technique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful crochet technique and I love it and highly recommend learning if you haven’t. But since this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just rows of regular stitches with some increases and decreases – that’s really it) a different technique can easily be substituted in. As long as your stitches match the gauge given, you could work this pattern in regular single crochet or regular knit stitch.

One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet or one regular knit/purl stitch.

I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single crochet, and obtained a closely matching gauge using a 4.0 mm hook.

Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does wonders for your finished piece, especially with Tunisian crochet which tends to curl. Blocking for this piece can be done simply by laying your piece out on a foam mat, using blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat and pretty and in the right shape. Using a spray bottle and plain water, wet the piece, then let dry. This works great with wool based yarns (King Cole Riot DK) and moderately well with acrylics (RH Unforgettable).

If you have any questions about any of the info given above (it’s a lot!), please don’t hesitate to contact me via e-mail at moralefiber@yahoo.com or on my blog Pattern Help and Support page here:
https://moralefiber.blog/pattern-help-support/
Or via Messenger on my FB page here:
www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber

Now on to the pattern!

Instructions

Simple Wedge (Make 6)

Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.
Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts.
Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts.
Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.

Pointed Wedge (Make 7):

Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 20-27: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next 8 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 29-32: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next 9 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 34-37: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next 10 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 39-42: TKS across, RP. – 25 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next 11 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 44-47: TKS across, RP. – 27 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. RP. – 33 sts
Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next 16 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 59: TKS across, RP. – 37 sts
Row 60: TKS in the next 17 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 61: TKS across, RP. – 39 sts
Row 62: TKS in the next 18 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts
Row 64: TKS in the next 19 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts
Row 66: TKS in the next 20 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 71: TKS in the next 25 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 72: TKS in the next 26 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 73: TKS in the next 27 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 74: TKS in the next 28 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 75: TKS in the next 29 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 76: TKS in the next 30 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 78: TKS in the next 32 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Skirt Construction

Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges as shown, seam all blocks together with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn.

Skirt Border:

The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked Double Crochet, worked back and forth, with increases at the point of each pointed wedge.

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of the skirt hem.
Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at the point of each pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this increase.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each point where the increase was marked.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each ch-1 from the increase points of the previous row.

Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie off. You can work extra border here if you want the skirt longer!

Close-up of the increases placed at the point of each pointed wedge

WAIST:

The waist is worked directly onto the top of the wedges that make up the skirt. One stitch is skipped on every block, to create a slight decrease in width to accentuate the waist.

Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the tops of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 12 times. RP. – 182 sts
Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP. To modify the size here, add or subtract any rows  after the first one to make it longer or shorter.

Back Panel:

The back panel is worked the length of stitches that equals half of the number of stitches in the waist. . In Large, 182 divided by 2 equals 91.

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 91
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 89 sts. Return pass (RP). – 91 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 91 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 83 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 89 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 81 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 87 sts
Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 79 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 85 sts
Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 77 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 83 sts
Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 75 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 81 sts
Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 73 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 79 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 71 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 77 sts
Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 69 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 75 sts
Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 67 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 65 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 63 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 61 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 59 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 40: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 57 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 61 sts
Row 42: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 59 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 51 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 57 sts
Row 44: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS I the next 2 sts. RP – 55 sts
Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 53 st

Row 46: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKs dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 51 sts
Row 47: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 49 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 47 sts
Row 49: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 45 sts
Row 50: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 43 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 41 sts
Row 52: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 39 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 37 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 35 sts
Row 55: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 31 sts
Row 57: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 29 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 27 sts
Row 59: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 25 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Front Panel – Right:

The front panels are worked with the length of stitches equaling the half of the waistband that the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two, so each panel will be a quarter of the total waistband stitches. For larges, 182 / 4 = 45.5. Since that’s not a whole number, I will round down to 45 and fudge the seam a tiny bit.

Front panel, right. The panel pictured is worked with 38 even rows in the beginning to create a longer coat. The pattern is written for 26.

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 45.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 43 sts. Return pass (RP). – 45 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 45 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 44 sts.
Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 40 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 43 sts.
Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 42 sts.
Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 38 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 41 sts.
Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 40 sts.
Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 36 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 39 sts.
Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 36 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 38 sts.
Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP –37 sts.
Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 36 sts.
Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 35 sts.
Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 34 sts.
Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 33 sts
Row 39: TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 32  sts
Row 40: TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 31 sts
Row 41: TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 30 sts
Row 42: TKS in ea of the next 27sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 29 sts
Row 43:  TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 28 sts
Row 44: TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 27 sts
Row 45: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 26 sts

Row 46: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25 sts
Row 47: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 sts
Row 48: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23 sts
Row 49: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22 sts
Row 50: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21 sts
Row 51: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20 sts
Row 52: TKS in ea of the next 16 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13  sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 54: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 55: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 56: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 57: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 58: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 59: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Front Panel – Left:

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 45.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 29, 36, 43 sts. Return pass (RP). – 45 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. –45 sts
Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 42 sts. RP – 44 sts.
Row 28: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 41 sts. RP – 43 sts.
Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 40 sts. RP – 42 sts.
Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 39 sts. RP – 41 sts.
Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 38 sts. RP – 40 sts.
Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 37 sts. RP – 39 sts.
Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 36 sts. RP – 38 sts.
Row 34: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 35 sts. RP – 37 sts.
Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. RP – 36 sts.
Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. RP – 35 sts.
Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. RP – 34 sts.
Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. RP – 33 sts.

Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. RP. – 32 sts
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. RP. – 30 sts
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. RP. – 28 sts
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. RP. – 26 sts

Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Row 47: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. RP. – 24 sts
Row 48: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Row 49: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. RP. – 22 sts
Row 50: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Row 51: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. RP. – 20 sts
Row 52: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. RP. – 19 sts. Row 53: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 54: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 55: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 56: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 57: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 58: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 59: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seam the Back & Front Panels

Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch the sides of the panels together so that the long angles face each other. Stitch together the straight sides, but not the angles. Once the bodice is sewn together, line the flat bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach using a 3.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn by working a slip stitch through both pieces.

SLEEVE (Make 2):

Sleeve size large, in progress.

Ch 16.
Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts
Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts
Row 3: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 20 sts
Row 4: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 22 sts
Row 5: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 24 sts
Row 6: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 26 sts
Row 7: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 28 sts
Row 8: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 30 sts
Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 34 sts
Row 11: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 36 sts
Row 12: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 38 sts
Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts
Row 14: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts
Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 38 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts
Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 46 sts
Row 17: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 42 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts
Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 44 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 50 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 52 sts
Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts
Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 56 sts
Row 22: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 52 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 23: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 54 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 60 sts

Row 24: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 56 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 25: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 58 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 26: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 60 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 66 sts
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 62 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts.
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 64 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 70 sts

Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 66 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 72 sts
Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 68 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 74 sts
Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 70 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 76 sts
Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 72 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 74 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 80 sts


Row 34: TKS in ea st across. Rp. – 80 sts
Row 35: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts
Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 74 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 78 sts
Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 72 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 76 sts.
Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 70 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 74 sts
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 68 sts. TKs dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in the final st. RP. – 72 sts.
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 66 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 70 sts.
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 64 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 68 sts.


Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 66 sts.
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 64 sts.
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 58 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 62 sts
Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 56 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 60 sts
Rows 46 – 86: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 60 sts
Row 87: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 54 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 62 sts
Row 89: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 56 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 90: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 64 sts
Row 91: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 58 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 66 sts
Row 92: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 66 sts
Row 93: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Row 94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 95: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 70 sts
Row 96: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 70 sts
Row 97: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 72 sts
Row 98: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 72 sts
Row 99: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 66 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 74 sts
Row 100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 74 sts
Row 101: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 68 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 76 sts
Row 102: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76 sts
Row 103: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Row 104: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 105: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 72 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 80 sts
Row 106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts
Row 107: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 74 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82 sts
Row 108: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82 sts
Row 109: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 84 sts
Row 110: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84 sts
Row 111: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 78 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 86 sts
Row 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 86 sts
Row 113: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 80 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 88 sts
Row 114: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts
Row 115: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 82 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 90 sts
Row 116: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 90 sts
Row 117: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 84 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 92 sts
Row 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 92 sts
Row 119: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 86 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 94 sts
Row 120: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 94 sts
Row 121: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 88 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 96 sts
Row 122: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 96 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Sleeve:

Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the piece. Seam together using a whip stitch, starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving toward the shoulder. At the underarm of the sleeve, match the remaining opening to the front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows to cap the tops of the panels, overlapping the top by 4 stitches.

Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the front and back panels.

Close-up of the sleeve fitting.

Sleeve Border

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam where the sleeve is sewn together.
Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 times in the same stitch, inserting hook as if to TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join with a slip stitch in the top of the first dc.
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first stitch and 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.

Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves longer here by adding extra border rounds of LDC.

Close-up of sleeve border. Beware my join is not in the same place pictured as is written in the pattern – whoops!

HOOD:

The hood is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete. This hood is has a very long point – it’s a lot of hood! If you prefer a shorter hood, seed β€œHalf Hood” instructions in the Size Medium pattern. Either size hood can be made and attached to any size Elf Coat.

Ch 3.
Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of the next 2 chain stitches. RP. – 3 sts
Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Rows 3-4: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts
Row 5: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next 3 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Rows 6-7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts
Row 8: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.
Rows 9-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts
Row 11: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 12-13: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts
Row 14: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Rows 15-16: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts
Row 17: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 18-19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts
Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 21-22: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts
Row 23: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 24-25: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 19 sts
Row 26: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 27-28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts
Row 29: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 30-31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts
Row 32: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 33-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts
Row 35: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 36-37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts
Row 38: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 39-40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts
Row 41: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 42-43: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 31 sts
Row 44: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 33 sts
Row 45-46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts
Row 47: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 35 sts.
Rows 48-49: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 35 sts
Row 50: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 37 sts.
Rows 51-52: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts
Row 53: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 39 sts
Rows 54-55: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 39 sts
Row 56: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 41 sts
Rows 57-58: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 41 sts
Row 59: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 43 sts
Rows 60-61: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 43 sts
Row 62: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 45 sts
Rows 63-64: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts
Row 65: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 47 sts
Rows 66-67: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 49 sts
Rows 69-70: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 49 sts
Row 71: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 51 sts
Rows 72-73: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts
Row 74: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 53 sts
Rows 75-76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.
Row 77: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in ea of the next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 58 sts
Rows 78-79: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts
Row 80: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 63 sts.
Rows 81-82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 63 sts
Row 83: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp) 4 times. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Rows 84-85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 86: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 16 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Rows 87-88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 73 sts
Row 89: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts.
Rows 90-91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 92: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 83 sts
Rows 93-94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts
Row 95: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 88 sts
Rows 96-97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts
Row 98: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 93 sts
Rows 99-100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 93 sts
Row 101: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 98 sts
Rows 102-103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts
Rows 104-121: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Hood

Fold the large triangle down the center length so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other and the wrong sides are out. With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, make a whip stitch seam starting at the point of the hood and seaming over the next 89 (Full Hood) or 63 (Half Hood) rows toward the opening of the hood.

Once this seam is complete, there should be 32 rows left un-seamed on either side. Turn your hood inside out so that the right sides are facing out again.

How did I get the number of rows to leave unseamed? It’s (8+8) to account for the small angled part on each side of the front panel, plus (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then (25-8= 17) to cover the portion of the top of the back panel not already covered by the cap of the sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded down to 64 to get an even number when I halved it – so 32 rows left unseamed on either side of the hood.

The hood then is seamed to the collar of the garment (once all sleeves and everything have been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching the points of the hood opening indicated by the red dots to the beginning of the collar on the front, also indicated by red dots.

Seam the hood around the collar opening, matching stitch for stitch.

Front Border and Closures

We’re almost done! Next up is to use four rows of LDC to add a border across the entire front opening, beginning with the hem, working up the opening of the garment, going around the edge of the hood, and working back down the other side of the front opening. After the third row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the buttons. For traditional buttonholes, stop to mark the placement after the second row.

Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of the skirt border rows.

Ch 3.
Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1 LDC in the side of each row across the next wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side of each row across the front panel, waist band, and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each LDC of the skirt border.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1. Traditional buttonholes mark placement here.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2. Loop buttonholes mark placement here.

Close-up of LDC border

Marking buttons:

Mark where your buttons will be on one side, and mark an equidistant space on the other side of the border for where you will place your loops or buttonholes. I began with one button/closure on the top and bottom edge of the waist band, then used this measurement (17 sts between each placement) to space the other buttons. I made five button placements total.

Once your button placements have been marked, begin the next row of LDC.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you reach a button/closure marker. If you are on the button side, keep working LDC’s. If you are on the closure side, there are two options: You can chain a couple stitches and skip over working a couple stitches, which creates a buttonhole within the band and a tighter closure. I opted to use a loop closure, which leaves the front a little more open when buttoned.

If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big enough to fit the button through, then slip stitch in the same stitch. Continue working LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain loop at any point where a closure is marked.

If making traditional buttonholes, stop LDC and chain one before a marked stitch. Skip marked stitch and resume LDC until you reach the next marked stitch, repeat.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Stopping to chain a loop closure

Traditional buttonholes

After finishing the final border row, use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach each button at the marked location on the opposite side of the closures.

Weave in all of your ends, and you are finished with your Elf Coat! That is, unless I can interest you in a Corset Back Lacing?

πŸ˜‰ – MF