Daydreamer Poncho Pattern

Merry Day of the Dead! Today’s offering is a brand new PDF crochet pattern that I had (ahem) originally scheduled to release in August. Ha ha! Life.

Daydreamer26

No worries here though because the Daydreamer Poncho is SUPER versatile as a layering piece and looks just as stunning worn over long sleeves and outerwear as it does over tank tops and dresses!ย  You can get this fresh design in my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern Store for 5.95 USD ๐Ÿ™‚

More details on the pattern below!

DaydreamerCollage8

Daydreamer Poncho

Embrace your inner hippie with this dreamy lace poncho; easy and quick to work up using worsted weight yarn and a 5.50 mm hook. The mesh construction makes this a perfect lightweight layering piece that flatters the wearer with a fitted shoulder, A-line shape, and a fluttery fringe at the hem.

Featuring textural stitches in alternating colors and gradually widening chain loop pattern inspired by crocheted dreamcatchers, you can proudly wear this handmade piece in any season. The ribbed post stitch collar is finished with a drawstring cord topped by yarn-fringe “feathers”. The instructions for the Daydreamer Poncho come complete with detailed written pattern including tons of quality color tutorial photos, numbered and referenced in the text so that all the techniques are illustrated and easy to follow!

Materials

5.50 mm (I) hook

Yarn: Lion Brand Jeans (#4 weight, 3.5 oz / 100g, 246 yd, 100% acrylic)
Color A: Vintage โ€“ 1 skein
Color B: Jumpsuit โ€“ 1 skein
Color C: Top Stitch โ€“ 1 skein
Color D:ย  Khaki โ€“ 1 skein
Color E: Stonewash- 1 skein
Color F: Stovepipe โ€“ 1 skein

Scissors
Tapestry Needle
6โ€ length of cardboard, book, or tassel maker for fringe

Final Dimensions:
Collar: 18โ€ without drawstring
Length: 22โ€ unstretched, not including fringe

All instructions written in US terms

Daydreamer24

You will love love love this pattern as much as I do, it’s so fun to make and has a ton of potential for scrapbusting if you don’t feel like splurging on new yarn – made with worsted weight and designed for color changes, there is endless possibilities! Of course, I’d love to try it in monochrome too…

As usual, too much inspiration, not enough time ๐Ÿ˜›ย  Enjoy the rest of the silly photoshoot I did for this pattern, and I hope it inspires you too!

Daydreamer27

Daydreamer13

Daydreamer20

Daydreamer9

Daydreamer25

Daydreamer1

Daydreamer14

I just couldn’t be more grateful for all the wonderful comments and support you guys leave me here and on social media – you’re the reason I get to keep doing this! So much love โค

If you’d like to see more Morale Fiber, check out my social media channels:

Facebook
Twitter
Instagram
Tumblr

Thank you!!
-MF

Advertisements

Lotus Duster 2.0

Finally! I have been working on rewriting, restyling, tweaking, and expanding this design for ages, and I am so excited it’s time to premier the new version for free here on the blog! (or for purchase in PDF – read on for more info).

LargeDuster3

Special thanks to my lovely friend Danielle for modeling for me ๐Ÿ˜€

You can get this pattern in downloadable, printable format from my Ravelry Pattern Store or my Etsy shop for 5.50 USD. The PDF version also includes a TON (100+) of bonus tutorial photos in the regular version as well as a printer-friendly file with just text!

The old version is still available on the blog for those that were in the middle of working one and want to continue with the same version. The NEW version is right here!

Stevie9

Some of the tweaks I have made to the design include reworking the neckline to make the collar more manageable (read- less ruffled), adding detailed instructions as to how to work the half rounds, rewriting the sleeve tutorial to be more precise, adding stitch counts for all the rounds on the main body, writing instructions on attaching ties, and generally cleaning up the writing style. OH, and I almost forgot – in response to many requests, there is now A LARGE SIZE! YAY! Check out the FREE pattern below!

LargeDuster1

 

Lotus Mandala Duster

DusterCover1

Sizes Small (Left) and Large (Right)

Notes:
Reading the pattern: Pattern is written for Small with the changes for Large listed afterward – when there are no changes, directions apply to all sizes. Rows marked “Extra” with a decimal number are for Larges only (Example: “Extra Round 13.1”)

Joining the Rounds: This pattern frequently uses hdc and dc to join the rounds in the openwork portions. If you are having trouble with the round-end joins, please see my Chain & Stitch Join Tutorial at
https://moralefiber.blog/2017/07/24/chain-stitch-join-tutorial/

Color Changes: This pattern leaves you free to plan your own color changes. To change colors, cut old color and tie off, then join new color in the last stitch of the round (for solid rounds) or last chain space of the round (for openwork/lace rounds).

Yarns Used: The Small size Duster (pictured above on the left) is made with yarns recycled from sweaters. You can find a tutorial for how to reclaim yarn on my blog at:
http://wp.me/p5Dj8T-3d
The Large duster (pictured on the right) is made with the yarn listed in the Materials section.

Materials
5.5 mm hook (I always use an in-line hook for these)
Premier Cotton Fair (#2, 3.5 oz, 317 yds) โ€“ 6 skeins
Scissors & Tapestry Needle

Gauge: 3โ€ณ measured across the diameter after Rnd 3.

Final Dimensions:
SMALL: 22.5โ€ณ radius (measured from center of motif to bottom edge)
50โ€ณ diameter (measured from collar to bottom edge)
Up to 36โ€ bust
LARGE: 26.5โ€ radius
53โ€ diameter
Up to 42โ€ bust

Some terms:

Dc with last loop on the hook: YO once, insert hk into next st/sp, draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 lps on the hook. 2 lps remain on the hook (1 original and 1 left unworked from the dc stitch).

4-DC Cluster โ€“ Work 4 dc stitches, keeping the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 5 loops on the hook.

3-dc cluster โ€“ Work 3 dc stitches leaving the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 4 loops on the hook.

Shell โ€“ 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc

Main Body

  1. Make magic ring. 8 sc into the ring, tighten. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round. โ€“ 8 sc

 

  1. Ch 4 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sc, ch 1) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-4. โ€“ 8 dc + 8 spaces

 

  1. Sl st into the next ch-1 space, ch 2 โ€“ counts as first dc with last loop on the hook. Dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 6 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin your next round. โ€“ 8 clusters + 8 spaces

 

  1. Ch 2 โ€“ counts as first dc with last lp on hk, dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook โ€“ first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. 16 clusters + 16 spaces

 

  1. Ch 2 โ€“ counts as first dc with last lp on the hk. Dc into the same space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster into the next ch-2 space, ch 3) 14 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster to join. โ€“ 16 clusters + 16 spaces

 

  1. Ch 3 โ€“ counts as first dc, 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3. (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. โ€“ 16 sets of 3 dc + 16 spaces

 

  1. Sl st in the top of the next dc. (Sk next dc. In the next ch-3 space work 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc โ€“ shell made. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc) 16 times. Join with a sl st in first sl st. โ€“ 16 shells

 

  1. Ch 6 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch 3, sc in the top of next tr stitch in the middle of the shell, ch 3. (Dc in the next sl st between shells, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. โ€“ 32 spaces

 

  1. Ch 3. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next sc and draw up a lp, (YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk) twice โ€“ one treble stitch leaving last lp on the hk made. Treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk โ€“ 3 lps remain on the hk. YO, draw through all 3 lps, ch 7. (In the last st worked the previous tr3tog, work 1 treble crochet leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk โ€“ 4 lps on the hk. YO, draw through all four lps on hk โ€“ tr3tog made, ch 7.) 15 times. Join with a sl st in top of first tr3tog. โ€“ 16 tr3tog + 16 spaces

DSC_1134

 

  1. Ch 4 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch 1. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Work 1dc in the top of the next tr3tog st, ch 1) 15 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Sl st into 3rdch of beg ch-4. ย – 48 clusters + 16 dc

 

  1. (Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Skip next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space, ch 3. Sk next cluster and space, sl st in next dc.) 15 times. Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Sk next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space. Sk next cluster and space, dc in same st as the sl st join of the previous round. โ€“ 32 clusters
  2. Ch 3 โ€“ counts as first tr with last loop on the hk. Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and draw through both lps on the hook โ€“ first tr2tog made. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the top of the next cluster. Sk next 2 chain-3 spaces, work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and pull through all 3 lps. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the first tr2tog. โ€“ 16 clusters + 16 tr2tog + 32 chain spaces
    DSC_1164.jpg
  3. Sl st in the next ch-4 space, ch 3 โ€“ counts as first dc. Work 4 dc in the same space. (1 dc in top of the next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-4 space, 1 dc in top of the next tr2tog, 5 dc in next ch-4 space) 15 times. Work 1 dc in top of next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, 1 dc in top of tr2tog. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. โ€“ 192 dc sts

Extra Rnd 13.1 (Extra rounds are only worked for size Large – see pattern Notes) : Ch 3 โ€“ counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 22 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 23 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. โ€“ 200 dc sts

 

Extra Rnd 13.2: Ch 3 โ€“ counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 23 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 24 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. โ€“ 208 dc sts

 

  1. Ch 4 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) 95, 103 Join with a sl stitch to the 3rdch of beg ch-4. โ€“ 96 dc + 96 ch-1 spaces, 104 dc + 104 ch-1 spaces.

 

  1. (Sk next ch-1 space. Work 1 hdc in the next dc. In the same st work 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc โ€“ scallop made. Skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc) 48, 52 Join with a sl st in the same st as join from the previous rnd. โ€“ 48 scallops, 52 scallops

 

When working with multiple colors, I always change colors after Rnd 15 โ€“ otherwise, the pretty scallops become hard to see after the next rnd.

  1. Ch 3 โ€“counts as first dc. Sk next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next st (1 hdc in the next st, sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st) 47, 51 Hdc in next stitch, sk next st, join with a sl st to the 3rdch of beg ch-3. โ€“ 192, 208 sts

 

  1. Ch 5 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch 2. (Sk next st, dc in next stitch, ch 2) 94, 102 Sk next st,dc in the next stitch. Hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5. โ€“ 96, 104 ch spaces

 

Extra Rnd 17.1 โ€“ Ch 5 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch 2. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 2) 102 times. Dc in the next space, hdc in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-5 to join. โ€“ 104 ch spaces

ย 

  1. Sc in the space formed by the hdc join of the previous rnd. Ch 3. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 3) 94, 102 Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. โ€“ 96, 104 ch spaces

Rnds 19-20. Rpt rnd 18.

Extra Round 20.1: Rpt Rnd 18 once more

Sleeve Yoke round:

21. Ch 3. (1 dc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 10,14 times. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 63, 65 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, sl st in the 3rdย ch of beg ch-3.- 84, 90 ch-1 spaces and 2 long chain loops that form the upper halves of the sleeve yokes

DSC_1321

22. Ch 3 โ€“ counts as first dc. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9, 13 times**. 1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 63, 65 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, join with a sl st to the 3rdย ch of beg ch-3. โ€“ 460, 488 sts

** Moving the armholes further apart or closer together to adjust the garment to your measurements will change this count. Just remember that any V-stitch in between the shoulder yokes should have 1 dc per space, not 3 as with the rest of the round.

23. Ch 3 โ€“ counts as first dc. (Sk next three sts, 1 dc in the next st. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st) 114, 121 times. Sk next three sts, dc in the next st, ch 1. Hdc in the 3rdย ch of beg ch-3 to join. โ€“ 115, 122 V-stitches

24. Ch 3 โ€“ counts as first dc. (1 dc in the next ch sp, ch 3, dc in the same space) 114, 121 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the 3rdย ch of beg ch-3. โ€“ 115, 122 V-stitches

25. Sc in space formed by the hdc join of the previous round, ch 4. (Sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4) 113, 120 times. ย Sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. โ€“ 115, 122 ch spaces

26. Sc in the space formed by the dc join of the previous rnd, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 4) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next ch sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. โ€“ 115, 122 ch spaces

27.Sc in the same sp, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 5) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next space, ch 2, dc in the first sc of the round. โ€“ 115, 122 ch spaces

28-30. Rpt rnd 27.

Extra Rnd 30.1-30.2: Rpt rnd 27 two more times

31. Sc in the same sp, ch 6. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 113, 120times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round. โ€“ 115, 122 ch spaces

Extra Rnd 31.1: Rpt Rnd 31

32. Sc in the same sp, 6 dc in next sc โ€“ one fan made. (1 sc in next ch-6 sp, 6 dc in next sc) 114, 121 times, join with a sl st in first sc of the round. โ€“ 115, 122 fans

33. Ch 5 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st (the third dc of the fan), ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2. (sk 2 sts, dc in next sc, ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rdย dc of next fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2) 113,120 times. Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next sc, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rdย dc of next fan. Ch 1, sc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the 3rdย ch of beg ch-5 to join. โ€“ 345, 366 chain spaces

34. Ch 4 โ€“ counts as first hdc + ch 2. (Hdc in the next ch-2 space, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2) 114, 121 times. Hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, hdc in the 2ndย ch of beg ch-2 to join. โ€“ 345, 366 ch spaces made

Working the following rounds on the top half only:

35. Ch 3. (Dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 1, dc in the same sp) 171, 191 times. Ch 3, Sl st in the next ch-2 space. Ch 3, turn. โ€“ 171, 191 dc V-stitches

DSC_1379

36. Sk first ch-3 space. Work 1 dc, leaving last lp on the hook in the next ch-1 space. Work 2 more dc with the last lp on the hook in the same space. YO and draw through all 4 lps on the hook – 1 3-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2) 169, 189 times. 3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 space, ch 3. Sk next ch space, sl st in the next hdc. Ch 3, turn. โ€“ 171, 191 dc clusters

DSC_1383

Work next round over entire circle.

37. 3 dc in the first ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 171, 191 times. 3 dc in the next ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 172, 173 times. 3 dc in the next chain space. Join with a sl st to the 3rdย ch of beg ch-3. โ€“ 1036, 1095 dc

DSC_1388

Cut yarn and tie off.

Sleeves:

Step 1. Attach yarn on the inside of the armhole, in the side of the last dc before the armhole on Rnd 21. Ch 3 โ€“ counts as first dc. 1, 2 dc more in the side of the dc. 2, 3 dc in each of the 8, 9 chain spaces โ€“ including the spaces that the v-stitches from Rnd 21 are worked into. 2, 3 dc into the side of the other Rnd 21 dc on the opposite end of the armhole. 1 dc into the base of all 30, 33 ch sts. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. โ€“ 50, 66 ย dc

ย DSC_1393

Step 2. Ch 4 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch 1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. โ€“ 25, 33 ch-1 spaces

ย DSC_1397

Step 3. Ch 4 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sp, ch 1) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. โ€“ 25, 33 ch-1 spaces

After a couple rows of this, size down to a smaller hook if desired. I sized down to 4.5 to make the sleeve snug on my upper arm.

Rpt Step 3 until your total reaches 23 rows, or until the length reaches just below your elbow.

Locate the ch space that is centered at the back of the elbow and mark it. (14thย space from the join for me, 17th on the large) This will now be the increase center.

Step 4. Ch 4 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center. The middle chain space made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc join in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-4.

Repeat Step 4 until short side of sleeve is about mid-forearm (11 rounds for me)

DSC_1415DSC_1418

Step 5. Ch 4 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the space before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the next space โ€“ increase made. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center โ€“ increase made. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the space after the increase center- increase made. The middle chain space made in the middle increase is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending on a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.

DSC_1424
Shown above is the three adjacent increases made after Step 5, each with the center space of the increase marked.

Step 6. Ch 4โ€“ counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the middle of one increase before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the third increase. The middle chain space in the middle increase made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.

ย DSC_1426

(Basically, put a 3-space increase in the center of each increase, dc + ch 1 in every other space.)

Step 7. Ch 4 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the sp, ch 1) rpt the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.

Rpt Step 7 until the length reaches your wrist, or as many times as desired.

Step 8. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space. 1 dc in the next dc. (2 dc in next ch-1 space, 1 dc in next dc) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

-To add even more ruffle, increase the amount of dc sts per chain space.
– For extra length or added detailing, Rpt Step 8 then follow Steps 9 – 11

Step 9. ย Ch 3 โ€“ counts as first dc. 1 dc in ea st around. Join with a sl st in top of beg chain

Step 10: Ch 4 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Step 11: Ch 1 โ€“ counts as first sc. Sc in the next space. (Sc in the next dc, sc in the next space) rpt around. Join with a sl st to the beg ch.

Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat sleeve on the other side. Remember that if you start your second sleeve in the same place as the first, you will need to re-measure to find the space at the elbow before Step 4 – it may not be the same as you will be working in the opposite direction.

Weave in all ends.

Ties:

Beginning with the shell below the last cluster on the end of Rnd 36, place marker. Repeat on the other side. WS facing (or on the โ€œinsideโ€ of the duster), attach yarn to the edge of the marked shell. Sl st in each stitch of the shells around, ending at the shell with the other marker. Be sure to keep your gauge fairly loose. Cut yarn and tie off, weave in ends.

Note: For larger sizes, you may want to move the row of slip stitching for the ties out to the very last round of the garment so that it can tie across the full front of the torso. Test your tie placement with the jacket on before deciding!

DSC_1436
Shown above is the slip stitching that reinforces the shells in preparation for attaching ties, worked in a contrasting color so you can see โ€“ I actually did the ties in the same white color as the rest of the garment.

Locate the shell in the middle of the two previously marked shells and mark it. This shell should fall in the center of your back when you try the coat on โ€“ if not, adjust placement so that it does.

With the coat on, decide where you want your ties to be and mark those shells with stitch markers. Take the coat off and make sure that your placement is even, using the middle marked shell as a guide. I like to do 3-4 ties on each side, 2-3 shells apart, beginning just above the apex of the bust.

Cut 5-6 yard long strands of yarn. Fold into a loop and pull through the middle slip stitch of the first shell on either side. Draw tail ends through the loop and tighten โ€“ separate into 3 bundles of four strands and braid to the end. Tie off. Cut 6 more strands, repeat the process of attaching to your next marked shell and braid. Repeat on one side, then switch to the other side and repeat process for as many ties as you like.

DSC_1439DSC_1443

Weave in all ends and block if desired. Congratulations on your new Lotus Mandala Duster!

(Individual artisans may feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern – just please link back to me!)

Time for more pictures!

LargeDuster2LargeDuster5LargeDuster7

And I FINALLY made one just for me, as an early birthday present to myself:

Duster3Duster5Duster7Duster2

If you liked this pattern please consider sharing on Ravelry! I love seeing everyone’s awesome projects!

-MF

 

Ida Shawl Circular Poncho

IdaPin1.jpg

I’ve been dying to design an asymmetrical circular poncho for a long time – in fact, it was over a year ago that I started on the first prototype for this new pattern. After much testing, tweaking, and perfecting, the Ida Shawl is finally ready for debut! You can get it in my Ravelry Pattern Store or Etsy Shop now for 5.50 USD โค

IdaCover4

The central mandala is based on a five-pointed star pattern inspired by the formation of seeds you can see when you cut an apple in half. To me it is representative of the beauty of natural geometry (FUN FACT the “geo” part of “geometry” means “earth” which is inherently natural making the phrase I just used sort of redundant. Moving on.)

Ida5

That dress has pockets!

An asymmetrical poncho worked in soft DK weight yarn keeps you cozy AND stylish! The short front hem of the wrap compliments all figures while the back falls in gentle ripples away from an eye-catching central lace mandala pattern.

A stretchy ribbed collar formed using crochet post stitches keeps the Ida Shawl on your shoulders without pins or ties for a practical yet feminine look. This lovely spring or autumn pieces keeps you warm while enhancing any outfit!

Pattern includes detailed written instructions and a ton of step-by-step tutorial photos as well as a print-friendly version!

Ida6.1

Materials:
5.50 mm Hook or size needed to obtain gauge
Cleckheaton Australian Superfine Merino (65 g, 130 meters) OR Rico Essentials Merino DK (50 g, 120 meters) 7 skeins in the following scheme:
Color A โ€“ 1 skein
Color B โ€“ 1 skein
Color C โ€“ 1 skein
Color D โ€“ 2 skeins
Color E โ€“ 2 skeins
Scissors & Tapestry Needle for weaving in ends

Ida4.1
Yarn Substitutions:
For ease of care, wool allergies, or affordability you may consider an acrylic substitute for this project โ€“ I recommend Caron Simply Soft Light as shown above (#3, 85 g / 330 yards, 100% Acrylic โ€“ 3 skeins) which produces a slightly different but equally lovely look. Color shown ย is Taupe.

 

That superfine merino is really warm and soft as butter, but the acrylic version is so light and lacy! I really can’t decide which one I like better.

Ida8.1Ida9.1

Ida3

It was VERY sunny that day

Ida4.2

Whichever is your favorite, I think we can all agree that dresses with pockets are the bomb.

-MF

Tattered Fairy Vest

ForestFae3

I wind up making a lot of bright pieces because I love playing with color, but I have a personal bias for earthy tones and neutrals (like over half of the things I own are brown. I love brown). So when I was thinking about the color scheme for this Forest Fae Vest pattern I bought from the Etsy shop ForeverWanderingg, I decided to follow her example and go with pretty, soft, and earthy.

I’ve been trying to work from crochet patterns other than my own lately and I bought this one as soon as I saw it. I love the tattered aesthetic and the mandala- I never met a mandala I didn’t like. ย So here’s my version of the Forest Fae Vest ๐Ÿ™‚
ForestFae5.jpg

I made the main body using Premier Cotton Fair (using two strands held together) and it came out feeling soft and thick and perfect! I wanted to achieve the longer tattered bustle style of the last model picture on the Etsy listing, so I searched through my collection of magical garbage. Which you can see a little of in the background here ๐Ÿ˜‰

ForestFae2

I came up with an old lacy scarf that had gotten accidentally dyed in the wash and a big piece of crochet lace I had salvaged from a dress I found at Goodwill. Time to dye those puppies to match!

ForestFae6

I used some Rit dye that I have had foreverย – can you believe I used dark brown and tan for this? Well, if you’ve dyed with Rit before you might, because it does tend to be a little bit of a crapshoot for color accuracy if you’re not careful. However, I prefer the lovely muted purple and am super glad that it didn’t come out dark brown. I even dyed that jersey cotton cowl to match!

Sewing it on took some psyching up, because taking something you’ve lovingly crocheted by hand and sticking it in a machine to punch a bunch of tiny thread into it is SCARY. But it went smooth as butter and before I knew it this sweet fairy vest was ready to rock!

Maybe you can tell I had a lot of fun making this? My favorite projects have always been based around upcycling – giving new life to old things, rediscovering their beauty. This project definitely fit that category.

-MF

Flower Child Pullover Pattern

Can I tell you about how stoked I am to finally have this design out?! I just barely squeaked it in, a month after I had planned on releasing it, while pre-warm-weather crafting is still going on: It’s the Flower Child Pullover! Cousin to my Mandala Top pattern, I think this may be my favorite pattern I’ve designed so far.

You can get it for 5.50 USD through my Etsy Shop or my Ravelry Pattern Store! More details below.

flowerchildcover4

With a colorful openwork design and a flattering A-line shape, the Flower Child Pullover lets the good vibes flow! A great layering piece for any season and a guaranteed eye-catcher at the beach, festivals, markets, concerts, yoga, or anywhere you feel like letting your hippie flag fly.

flowerchild10-1

This funkadelic mandala sweater dress is similar in construction to the sleeveless tunic-style Mandala Top, made with the same easy-care worsted weight acrylic yarn that lets you zen out to your favorite color combinations without breaking the bank.

flowerchild1

I personally love the mesh crochet construction that lets the garment drape alluringly over all different types of beautiful curves! Pattern is written in 3 sizes (Small, Medium, and Large) with options for customizing size, 9-17 color changes written into the instructions, and over 75 bright, clear tutorial photos. I really went nuts with the tutorial photos for this one! To compensate, I also have included a separate text-only PDF pattern version that won’t break your printer.

flowerchild6-1

 

Get colorful or bust some scraps with the detailed individually listed yardage requirements for each color included in the pattern.

flowerchild12-1

Sizes:
Small: 24โ€ Length, 16โ€ upper arm circumference, 32โ€ bust, 15โ€ wide collar
Medium: 26โ€ Length, 18โ€ upper arm circumference, 38โ€ bust, 15โ€ wide collar
Large โ€“ 30โ€ Length, 20โ€ upper arm circumference, 42โ€ bust, 16โ€ wide collar

Materials:
Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn! (#4 Medium Weight, 199 g / 355 yds per skein). 700-820 yds total, exact yardages for each color included.
5.00 mm hook
Stitch Markers
Scissors & Tapestry Needle

Written in US terminology

I’m really glad I had an excuse to buy that giant flower, because I’ve been eyeballing it at the craft store for months.
flowerchild13-1

-MF

Pearl Ruffled Circular Vest

Just a quick collection of photos and notes from a project I recently finished, while I wait for everything to open this lovely Saturday morning (how come nothing is open before 9:00? I’m awake NOW, dangit)

“Pearl” Ruffled Circular Vest

I impulse bought 6 skeins of Patons Silk Bamboo, a smooth-as-butter DK weight yarn that has amazing drape, not knowing what I was going to do with it. Well, sometimes I get stuck on a design andย simplyย need to do it over and over again in different ways, which is what is happening currently with my Lotus Circular Vest and Lotus Mandala Duster.

This small version of the Lotus Vest used up barely 5 skeins of the Silk Bamboo, plus some nameless but pretty ribbon yarn I still have a ton of. Here are my notes on how I modified the original pattern:

Pearl2

Follow Rnds 1-14 as directed in the original pattern.

Armhole Round: 15. Ch 4 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) 9 times. Dc in the next dc, ch 30. Sk next 24 dc sts. (Dc in the next dc, ch 1, sk next st) 19 times. Dc in the next dc, ch 30. Sk next 24 dc sts. (Dc in the next dc, ch 1, sk next st) 42 times. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

16. Ch 3 โ€“ counts as first dc. Dc in ea dc and ch st around. โ€“ 204 sts.

17. Ch 4 โ€“ counts as first dc + ch 1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) around. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. โ€“ 102 ch-1 spaces.

18. (Sc in the next dc, ch 3, sk next st) 101 times. Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round.

19. Sc in the same ch space, ch 3. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 3) 100 times. Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round.

20. Rpt rnd 19

21. Ch 3 – counts as first dc in V-stitch pattern. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space) 101 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

22. Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in next ch-1 space, ch 4) 100 times. Sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round.

23. Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch-4 sp, ch 4) 100 times. Sc in the next ch sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round.

24. Sc in the same sp, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 5) 100 times. Sc in the next space, ch 2, dc in the first sc of the round.

25. Rpt Rnd 24

26. Sc in the same sp, ch 6. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 100 times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round.

27. Sc in the same sp, ch 6 (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 100 times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round.

On the next round, catch the tab of the ribbon yarn on the last YO of every other st, starting with the first dc.

28. Sc in the same sp, 6 dc in next sc โ€“ one fan made. (1 sc in next ch-6 sp, 6 dc in next sc) 101 times, join with a sl st in first sc of the round.

 

Alright, it’s 9 am now. Time to head out to the uhh… not the yarn store. *shifty eyes*

-MF

Time and Tied

My ideas have seemed a bit dammed up lately, to be honest. Not for lack of inspiration, and not even for lack of time ย – okay, maybe a little bit for lack of time. Even though I have tons of time to work on crochet et cetera, it never seems to be enough for the amount of things I want to do and create. And, as many creative types know, the more you create the more inspiration you get, and so you are doomed because you cannot possibly ever keep up because the harder you work the more ideas you’ll have.

At least, that’s what it’s like for me.

But I don’t mind things feeling a little tied up, because my experience has been that in matters of creativity it’s best to let things come to you when the time is right.

For instance, my giant bag of orphan yarn has contained, for several years now, balls of recycled yarn from scads of thrift store sweaters. I used a bit here and there, but no project seemed to be eager to fit the bill for the sheer quantity of recycled yarn in this particular weight (usually the sweater yarn I get is somewhere between lace weight and sport weight).

That is, until I just accidentally decided to use some of it in the free pattern for theย  Lotus Mandala Duster I made recently based off of my original Lotus mandala motif. Suddenly a whole new world of possibility opened up for these former sweaters! In between the actual pattern writing for my paid patterns and working on my stash of art yarns and hand dyed wool roving, I busted hook to do as the yarn commanded.

Emmy4

And so out came the “Emmy Lou” duster jacket, made primarily out of recycled sweater yarn but also featuring a good bit of yarn that I spun myself (see this post for more info on that handspun).

Emmy3

I haven’t gotten pictures of it on an actual person yet because I couldn’t wait ๐Ÿ˜‰

In addition to the pattern being free (you can find it on this blog post), I also wrote an extensive, somewhat insanely detailed tutorial last year on how to reclaim yarn from thrift store sweaters, which can be found in three parts:

Everything You Need to Know to Start Recycling Sweater Yarn:

Recycling Sweater Yarn cover

Getting Started and Breaking In V. 1

Breaking In V.2

Unraveling & Finishing

Naturally, before I have even made much of a dent in my stash of previously reclaimed sweater yarns, I ran out and picked up these misty-hued beauties from the thrift store for a future recycled sweater lace duster. I didn’t mean to, I swear. I was looking for summer clothes at the time.

Sweaters1

Of course, I have to wait until some of the dam of ideas I have sifting around in my head find their proper place in new patterns and tutorials before I can wail away on more recycled sweaters. I guess the moral of the story (not to be confused with the morale of the story) is that everything has to come in its own good time. So, if you are like me and experience the pangs of creative blockage from time to time, don’t stress. Someday you may find your patience amply paid for when your ideas find the right vehicle and you realize that’s what you were waiting for all along โค

-MF