Hello from the Morale Fiber Headquarters! Back in the fall of last year when Lion Brand discontinued one of their most unique and beautiful yarns, I knew I’d have to do a hunt for something adequate to replace it. Not only do I use Shawl in a Ball / Shawl in a Cake as the recommended yarn for two of my best patterns, the Priestess Coat and the Embla Vest, it’s also a go-to favorite for making some of my other designs as well – such as the Lotus Mandala Vest. I also thought this would be a good opportunity to write another field guide – this time focusing on how to find the best yarn substitutes!
The Embla VestThe Lotus Vest (with Cardigan Sleeve Add-on)
I started searching around, using some of my yarn knowledge acquired through years and years of using substitute yarns and getting mixed results. A lot of this yarn know-how is detailed in my extensive post about crochet gauge and the different characteristics of fiber and yarn construction, and in that post I do mention Shawl in a Ball specifically. You see, it’s just such a strange yarn! Despite being a #4 weight, the yarn is relatively thin and sleek, with the fluffy fibers that cling to the cotton strand core making it lofty and soft too. It often works up much smaller in gauge than other #4 weight yarns, but it has a heaviness and drape to it because of the denser cotton core construction.
Not to mention the colors – gorgeous. Truly a yarn I will miss. I may have bought a lot of it for my stash when I realized it was in danger of disappearing forever 😉
After several fruitless trips to the big box hobby stores, my search for adequate substitutes led me to my favorite bulk yarn supplier, Ice Yarns. Their huge variety of yarns was just the hunting ground I needed, and I ordered a big bag of different skeins, ready to test them out against Shawl in a Ball. I set the big bag aside, fully intending to create a new yarn unboxing video for this little venture. And then I procrastinated until my nice fat package from Ice Yarns had been staring balefully at me from my office corner for months. But now, I finally conquered making that unboxing video, as well as swatching all my samples of yarn to create this how-to guide for finding the right substitute yarn!
Anyway, time to get to the nitty gritty, eh? First up is the unboxing video itself, to introduce all of our candidates. Then, we’ll go over the details of each yarn’s weight and construction, along with my test gauge swatches, and talk about which yarns are the best substitute for Shawl in a Ball, as well as the finer points of what makes a good yarn substitute in general! Hopefully this guide will provide some answers on how to search for the right substitute yarn no matter what you’re looking to replace 🙂
Ice Yarns Unboxing
The Swatches:
Target Yarn: Shawl in a Ball (also includes Shawl in a Cake) #4 weight category 61% Cotton, 34% Acrylic, 5% Other Fiber 150 g / 440 meters OR 5.3 oz / 481 yards
For this exercise in yarn substitution, I’m searching specifically for something besides Shawl in a Ball (SIAB) to make my Priestess Coat pattern with, and so all the swatches are made using the stitch for that pattern (Tunisian Simple Stitch) and aiming for the target gauge for that project using the recommended hook size (6.5 mm). All swatches were made in one sitting for consistency and have all been blocked by pinning them out so that the stitches are fully stretched to allow accurate measurement.
Of course, all of these swatch measurements are dependent on my own unique tension when I crochet. ALL gauge measurements are going to depend on each individual crocheter’s tension, and so measurements will vary from person to person even when using the same materials. For more information on understanding how to navigate gauge, be sure to check out my Crochet Gauge guide!
When searching for potential yarns to order for this exercise, I focused on finding skeins with a comparable weight (grams or ounces) to length (meters or yards) ratio. If I found a similar ratio, I would then consider yarn structure and fiber content. Here’s how my four samples performed…
Ice Yarns Cakes Mohair
#2 weight category
20% Mohair, 20% Wool, 60% Acrylic
150 g / 810 meters OR 5.3 oz / 885 yards
In the unboxing video, I couldn’t remember if I had bought this yarn for the substitute search or not, since the weight category was #2 and I’m trying to substitute for a #4 – it seemed like I should have stayed within 1 category grade! However, I remembered after filming that my original intention WAS to double this yarn and see if a 2-stranded swatch would compare to my single strand swatch of the desired #4 weight.
Just for fun, though, I swatched it with both the single strand, and the 2-strand 🙂 In the above picture, the 2-strand is on the top of the image, and the 1 strand is on the bottom. As you can see, 2 strands makes it much bigger and the 1 strand swatch is the dinkiest of all the swatches.
Target Gauge: 7 stitches & 6 rows = 2 inches
Gauge for 1 strand swatch: 8 stitches & 8 rows = 2 inches (pictures above – too small!)
This swatch comes in too small, as predicted. At a full 2 rows OVER what it normally takes to get the correct height for the gauge, I wouldn’t attempt to use this yarn single-strand for the project. While it may be possible to size the hook up a few times to enlarge the stitches enough to meet the gauge, I’d predict that the fabric would not be dense enough with such a large hook to achieve the right look for the garment. In other words, too much space between stitches would cause the fabric to look too airy and “lacey.”
Gauge for 2 strand swatch: 7 stitches & 6 rows = 2 inches (ON TARGET! pictures below)
Doubling up the strands for this yarn worked! This is also what I predicted according to the math (the length per gram was almost double the yarn I was trying to match, therefore doubling the yarn produced similar gauge). While the gauge measurements match, the swatch of fabric itself is thicker and fuller feeling than the original SIAB swatch, so the resulting Priestess Coat would be a little denser, but it should work beautifully and be warmer than the original design, a plus for many since the SIAB Priestess was created more for style than for warmth 😉
While this yarn worked up slightly smaller than the desired measurements, I would still consider this a good substitute. To make it meet gauge, I could go up in hook size one or two steps, or I could work with my physical hand tension until I’m used to making the stitches a little less tightly, using the same hook size the pattern recommends. The fabric density and the overall feel of the fabric is a close match to the original SIAB, because of the similar strand structure I mentioned in the video, so visually this yarn performs well.
It’s important to factor in that gauge isn’t always going to translate *exactly* from swatch to project. Especially in the case of larger garments, the extra fabric weight and long stretches of the same stitch motions may end up loosening your tension FOR you. It’s not the safest gamble to depend on, but it happens! Still, I recommend getting your gauge as close as possible on the swatch, and worrying about how it translates later.
Sorry for the black on black on black. I know it’s not the most visible thing in the world, but turn your screen brightness up and bear with me, because this substitute is great! As I mentioned in the video, I am specifically hoping for a good substitute in black shades so I can make a witchy, raven-y Priestess Coat – and Lorena fits the bill. At just a fraction of a row too short for the gauge height, I can probably rely on either changing my manual tension to fix this, or using my knowledge of the pattern to add extra rows if/where necessary.
The fabric density of this swatch is surprising – at #2 weight I wouldn’t expect it to be such a good match. However, the yarn has lots of plies that come together to form a bouncy, rounded yarn that is also light and sleek, so the stitch structure is delicate enough to still have space between stitches while also looking substantial and not too “lacey” or flimsy.
This yarn also has good elasticity, which leads me to suspect I won’t have to worry about that extra .5 of a row gap in gauge measurement. This is because the overall stretch of the fabric, once all the weight of the project is exerted, might stretch the stitches enough that the gauge makes target. Again, it’s best not to rely solely on such an imprecise prediction, and getting exact gauge is best – but it can happen!
I’m so glad I got this measurement for Bamboo SoftAir, because it helps demonstrate exactly the point I’m trying to make here, which is that weight categories aren’t everything! The gauge reading for this #4 weight yarn is pretty much the same as for the #2 weight yarn Lorena, which we just sampled. Weird, right? Goes to show that there are really so many variables when choosing yarns such as structure, fiber content, number of plies, and all of that on TOP of each individual crafter’s tension. No wonder the number one question I get is about yarn substitutions! It can be a lot to parse through.
While the gauge reading is good, I’m not thrilled with the way the fabric looks. Compared to the SIAB, the fabric is much denser and woollier, creating an overall stiffer swatch than I want. The thickness would be great for someone looking to make a very warm coat, but one of the key design characteristics of my Priestess pattern is the way the loose structure of the stitched fabric creates a lovely swing in the diamond gore inserts at the hem. I could definitely make this coat with this yarn, but the drape would not look and move the same!
Further Tools and Resources
I have to admit that when it came to hunting the yarn for this test, I did it the hard way! I wanted to really get my hands into the process so I could explain it in detail. Fortunately there are great resources out there that allow you to skip the process of calculating the gram-to-meter-to-whatever ratio of every single skein candidate:
Yarnsub.com – This is my instant go-to database for substituting any yarn! Just type in the brand name and yarn style of the yarn you need to substitute, and the huge database will give you match results based on the same parameters discussed here – weight category, gauge, fiber content, ect. The results pop up by nearness of match, and you can filter by type of fiber and cost. Here’s an example search with SIAB already plugged in! One drawback of this database is that of course, there are tons of yarns not included (I’ve never seen an Ice Yarn pop up despite the fact that they often make very good dupes of popular hobby store brands). But one can’t expect every yarn in the yarniverse to be in there, so it’s still a great starting point.
Ravelry.com – Ravelry still reigns supreme in my eyes as the most useful yarn-crafting network on the internet and once you move past their slightly-outdated webpage formats it’s easy to see why. For every pattern information page, there’s a tab marked “Yarn Ideas” that will pull up all the yarns used by crafters who have made the project and logged it on Ravelry.
I knew before I clicked it that one of the entries under Yarn Ideas would be Lion Brand Mandala, a DK weight acrylic cake yarn. So far this is the substitute I have recommended most for this project, as I’ve gotten good feedback from crocheters saying they really liked this project in that yarn 🙂 Hobbii Universe XL was a surprise though – and I really would love to try that one too!
You can also look at the “Projects” tab to see all the projects made from a particular pattern and get a better idea of how different yarns look in the overall finished project.
If you’ve read this far, I’m proud of you. This is next-level stuff! Understanding the finer details of yarn planning is so essential to creating projects you’re going to love for years to come, so I hope my perspectives have been useful or at the very last, encourage asking the right questions when you’re on the hunt.
As for my search for a great yarn substitution for a Raven Priestess Coat project, I think I’ve settled on a combination: the true black Lorena for the main body of the coat, and the SIAB Cleansing Quartz for the diamond panels at the bottom. We may grab some Bamboo SoftAir for a pared-back trim (instead of the bulky fur) , although I think it would look great without any fancy trim at all so we’ll see. Check back in a few years when my procrastinating self is likely to have it done 😉
I’ve been working away here at headquarters preparing this special video tutorial for the shaping and joining portion of the Flower Child Pullover crochet pattern; this post features some brand new photos, discussion of how to expand the size of the design, and full step-by-step video instructions for the shaping and joining rounds (keep scrolling – videos are at the bottom)!
First off, all the resources in this post are SUPPLEMENTAL to the written pattern, which is available for purchase in my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern store – or click here to read the original post with all the info about this design 🙂 You need the written pattern for the full instructions – this video is just a walkthrough of Rounds 8-12 of this pattern.
I wanted to get those specific rounds being worked on video because I had a lot of questions so far this season about the joining round for this project – much like the free Mandala Top crochet pattern, the Flower Child utilizes two circular shapes for the garment which are attached using a back-and-forth stitch and chain technique which is a bit complicated to get through in just written format.
The new video tutorials go through the joining portion step by step, reading along with the pattern and explaining and demonstrating as I go. I shot this footage after making several pullovers from this pattern, and I tried to include a few tips and tricks as I went without overloading on extra info.
One of the modifications I made on my practice pieces were to experiment with ways of creating larger sizes for this design. The written pattern includes sizes Small, Medium, and Large but I’ve had many inquiries on how to get larger/plus sizes for it. While I’d love to rewrite this whole pattern to expand the sizing options, these tips are the best I can do at the moment – please let me know if you have any questions 🙂
Some Tips on Sizing UP
As mentioned in the notes of the pattern, some expansion of sizing can be done by making an extra repeat Round 8 of the pattern. This can be done on any size at least once, and on the Large potentially two extra repeats of this round may be made. In the video, I work one extra Round 8 on this Medium size pullover before moving on to the shaping & joining rounds.
Fair warning, though, extra rounds cause the garment to be LONGER as well as WIDER so you’ll have to take that into consideration! If your piece ends up longer than you want, you can always skip a bottom edge row in order to compensate for that, which is what I did on this example.
On the first few examples I made, I was so enthused about starting the project that I forgot to check my gauge, and I was using a different kind of hook than the one I originally used when I wrote the pattern. And so that’s how I accidentally did another method for sizing up – changing my gauge! If you want a garment that is just a bit looser, sizing up your hook to get a different gauge is a great way to help expand this garment. I believe my gauge was 7″ at Round 4 for this looser example instead of 6″ in diameter as given in the pattern – shown below is Size Medium with the larger gauge.
It’s also possible to extend the size of the armholes – sleeve yokes and be difficult to fit to each individual even when creating a garment which is specifically graded for size! For the Flower Child, the sleeve yoke (aka the arm-hole) can be expanded by making extra chain stitches on the joining round, which is mentioned in the video but not fully demonstrated – this will change the number of repeats in the sleeve portion of the pattern, but a savvy crocheter will be able to navigate that pretty easily if familiar with the design.
Video Tutorials
I hope these instructions were helpful! I started making these latest sweater dresses for the tutorial video and found the color therapy to be really effective – I chose colors inspired by my succulent plants for the blue, green, and neutral toned ones 🙂
This design was pretty much born to be a scrapbuster, and the original written pattern comes with detailed lengths approximated for each color change so you don’t have as much guesswork to do.
Ahhhhhh! I had so much fun revisiting this design. It’s hard to believe it’s been almost 5 years since I released the pattern! I’m constantly torn between updating older designs and creating whole new ones – I usually opt for a little of both. If there’s something you’d like to see, be sure to drop a comment! 🙂 I love hearing from ya!
I’m very pleased to bring you all another a full length, real-time crochet tutorial video today!
This one demonstrates the making of my Morel Mushroom secret pouch, a cute fungus shaped pocket on a chain loop with an adjustable mushroom cap topper. The written pattern for this handy project is available for free on my blog here, but a crocheter recently commented on my YouTube Channel requesting a video demonstration since the method is very free-form.
While I can’t respond to every request I get for different resources for my patterns, occasionally a suggestion just really works for me or strikes inspiration and this was one of those times 🙂 I love making these mushroom pockets for my Pixie Belt designs and I had been working up to another new belt, one that would be lovely with a little morel…
So I recorded the making of my Morel Pouch and put together this video tutorial along with a bonus tour of my newest Pixie Pocket Belt, “Queen Anne’s Lace.”
Check out the video and all the relevant links below!
Morel Mushroom Video
I have made lots of variations on mushroom pouches over the years, including all these free resources on my blog:
Examples of Pixie Belts I’ve made, many with mushroom pockets
The newest belt, Queen Anne’s Lace, utilizes lots of vintage crochet scraps, scrap lace fabric and cotton weave, upcycled wool yarns, and handspun yarns. I’ve been dreaming of this particular pixie theme for years as it’s one of my favorite plants to see out on the roadside <3
That about wraps it up for now – let me know what you’d like to see in the future! I hope to do some more full-length videos where I work and talk in real time but only if they are helpful for people! 😉 If you’re looking for more Morale Fiber videos please subscribe to my YouTube Channel and consider becoming a Patreon supporter <3
Happy September! One of the best months of the year (IMHO) and it’s bringing lots of reorganization and preparation for yours truly 😉
I’m here today to bring you a vlog that talks a little bit about how I run my business and make money publishing crochet patterns online. This overview introduces two new platforms for Morale Fiber, Patreon and Ko-Fi, which will allow me to take subscriptions from the kind followers who want to support what I do!
Patreon and Ko-Fi are social media channels designed to help artists get paid for their work. If you like to see my work and want to make a huge difference in my ability to produce content, please subscribe, donate or follow me on either of these platforms! 🙂 If those channels are too much commitment, you can drop a safe, one-time payment in my Tip Jar on this page (or read more there about how I manage MF and provide free content).
UPDATE 2/22: I have since decided that Patreon is just not a preferred platform for me, and shut down that avenue for Morale Fiber – but I still have my Tip Jar on my blog and am continuing work with my Ko-Fi account as well! 🙂 Thank you to everyone who supported me on Patreon while it was running, bless you <3
In my YouTube Channel video I go over why I am opening these new revenue options, what I do in the day to day running of Morale Fiber, and how I juggle all the tasks of a one-woman independent art business.
There’s also some sneak peeks of upcoming designs currently in development and examples of some of the great FREE content I offer 🙂 All projects mentioned in the video are linked below 😀
One more thing – I apologize for the choppiness of this video! I mentioned recently that I was having issues with my laptop (main computer) being really slow 🙃 and shortly after I filmed this video on my phone, my computer crashed and is now totally dead. So I had to video edit on my phone. One more great reason to subscribe, donate and tip if you like my art! Mama needs a new laptop 😉
Hi fiber fans! This blog post is just a quick one featuring my newest YouTube video, which is a long and ramble-y unboxing of my latest yarn order from one of my absolute favorite supply companies, Lion Brand. As usual, the opinions and products featured in this review are 100% my own – I didn’t receive any money, affiliations, or products in return for this feature, I just really like their yarn 🙂
With this review I’ve continued my search for soft, comfortable #4 weight cotton yarn for use in my halter top and bikini top patterns and I finally find my coveted substitute for I Love This Cotton…
Lion Brand Pima Cotton! It’s the perfect texture, weight, and composition to match my old standby – and the colors are lovely! I’ll definitely be using this yarn a lot in the future. I also go over another great #4 weight yarn, Cotton-Ease, which is part cotton mixed with acrylic, for the durability and breathability of cotton but with the acrylic lending a little more elasticity and bounceback.
I also re-supply myself on Ferris Wheel, an excellent colorful acrylic cake yarn with a lightweight one-ply structure. This yarn is somewhat melancholy as I’m using it to finish the Sundogs Throw blanket my friend was making right before she passed away.
So here’s the video – come hang with me as I laugh, cry, and ogle totes in my little woodland corner (and check below the video for links to all the patterns I mention)…
Lion Brand Unboxing & Yarn Review
Thanks for joining me! Here are the links to the patterns I mention in the video:
Hope you enjoyed this little review and round-up 🙂 If you like my newer videos, please leave me some feedback and let me know what you’d like to see more of <3 Thanks for tuning in!
Today I’m sharing a tutorial for the Waistcoat Stitch, aka the Knit Stitch! Despite the name, this stitch is a crochet stitch that’s actually very simple – it’s basically just single crochet – but creates a distinctive structure that’s perfect for tightly formed fabric with a smooth surface texture. Plus, it looks a bit like knitting 🙂
Waistcoat Stitch (abbreviated to “WS” or “ws”) is worked in the round to achieve the smooth knit-look texture. You can work this stitch back and forth, but because the WS relies on the Right Side to create the effect, back-and-forth WS will not look smooth and pretty like in-the-round will. The firm texture, the neat look of the surface, and the reliance on working in rounds makes this a perfect stitch for hats!
And I have yet another pointy hat being developed right this very minute, ready to be published soon, which also utilizes this awesome technique – so I’m doing a tutorial here today in preparation which includes a video demo – keep scrolling for the free instructions! <3
Waistcoat Stitch Tutorial
So how do we work this amazing little stitch? As I mentioned, the WS is basically a single crochet, so you don’t have to learn any fancy yarnwork to create it. The secret to this stitch is all in where you insert your hook to draw up the first loop for your crochet stitch.
In the first round, you’ll be working traditional single crochet stitches into your ring or your round of chains (remember, we don’t work this back and forth but in rounds instead).
Once you have established a round in single crochet, the next round will work single crochet stitches but through the vertical bars of the stitch below, not through the top two loops as normal.
Highlighted here are the top two loops (first image above) where you would normally insert your hook to draw up the first loop for your stitch. In the second image above, I have highlighted the vertical bars of the crochet stitch below, which form a bit of a “V”. You’ll be inserting your hook in between these two bars from the front and emerging through the body of the stitch to the back of the work.
Pictured Above: Inserting the hook through the middle of the highlighted vertical bars of the stitch below
At the back of the work, the vertical bars of a single crochet stitch form an upside-down “V” shape. Your hook will emerge between these vertical bars, at the point indicated by the white dot.
Pictured Above: The hook emerging at the back of the work, between the vertical bars. The stitch beside it is highlighted to show the configuration of the bars when viewed from the back, with the white dot indicating where the hook should emerge.
From there, draw up a loop. YO and draw through two loops as normal to complete one Waistcoat Stitch. Your stitch will now emerge from the center of the stitch below, coming out from the vertical V shape.
Insert your hook again through the V of the next stitch, then draw up a loop and complete the single crochet as normal. Voila! You are working waistcoat stitch!
After a few rounds of this stitch, the texture starts to become very smooth and even, with the v-shapes mimicking the loops of knitting but with a firmer, thicker fabric perfect for structured projects.
Increasing and decreasing in Waistcoat Stitch are handled the exact same way as with single crochet, but again – inserting that hook in between the vertical bars instead of the top loops. So to increase, simply work two Waistcoat stitches in the next vertical-bar “V”, so that you have an extra stitch in the same place. To decrease, work a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) but draw up your first two loops from between the vertical-bar “V”s 🙂
I’ve created this video tutorial to help you navigate the basics of this stitch – I didn’t get quite the video quality I wanted for this, but I’m working on upgrading some of my technologies for doing better videos (and dealing with some malfunctions) so stay tuned and thanks for your patience 🙂
Waistcoat Stitch Video Tutorial
As I mentioned (a lot) just love this stitch because it’s particular qualities are so good for hats! Firm fabric and a neatly smooth textured surface – it’s just perfect <3 You can also substitute this stitch for regular single crochet in many simple hat patterns – I might try it on my Mori Girl Beret pattern next!
Thanks for visiting and stay tuned for my newest hat pattern, to be released in just a few days! -MF
One of the best things about doing more video media is the ability to show my latest and greatest crochet projects in action! Today’s post introduces the newest video on my YouTube Channel, which is a Hook Review that goes over some different hook types and hook brands that I’ve used. In that video, I feature several of my own patterns but also this lovely crochet overalls dress from The Dream Crochet Shoppe on Etsy! I finished her pattern recently and love the product so much I had to show it off by wearing it for the review – here’s a few snapshots of this cute crochet design!
I don’t get to branch out to work other people’s crochet patterns nearly as often as I’d like, since all my crochet mojo is usually funneled toward creating my own original designs. But I make an effort every so often to stop and pull out a pattern from my (ever growing) collection of purchased PDF’s. It’s a fantastic way to branch out and learn from others and also to give my own brain a break 🙂 I adore Ashlee Elle’s designs and she has SO many to choose from! Check her out on Instagram, too!
In my newest video, I wanted to go over some of the crochet hook types and hook brands that I have in my collection of tools. Crochet hooks are super important (duh) to your work because changes in hooks will create subtle changes in your projects and you want to use the right tool for the job, but one that also works well for you individually! That’s why it’s a good idea to know what’s available.
Brands reviewed cover Boye and Susan Bates (the “regular” aluminum metal style hooks), Clover (soft grip and contoured), and specifically reviews Furls crochet hooks – are they really worth the money?
My current Furls collection says yes 😉 All opinions expressed are just mine and I haven’t been compensated or influenced in any way by the brands I talk about here! Just a crocheter’s honest thoughts. After all, they are our magic wands so every crocheter will have their favorites for their personal collection 🙂
Hook Review
I mention two of my own designs in the video too, here are the links to the posts with more info on those! Mandala Top Cobweb Wrap
I also mention the Field Guide to Crochet Gauge and Yarn Behavior, a blog post of mine that outlines some of the ways that gauge, hooks, and yarn types interact within crochet projects. There’s so much to learn about the finer points of crochet and I’m always trying to learn more – I hope my perspective is inspiring and helpful to your personal fiber art journey 🙂
I’m always looking for the best ways to expand my offerings as I grow and develop as a crochet pattern designer. On one hand, I need to make enough money from my business to pay my bills and care for myself. On the other hand, offering things for free here on my blog is mutually beneficial to me AND you! By offering more free things, people have the chance to see what my premium written patterns are like, and if they like them and want to use them all the time the hope is that they’ll buy the downloadable, ad-free versions 🙂
Offering free patterns also drives up my website and channel views, which in turn make me a little more money from ad revenue- not as much as the paid PDFs, but some. But the best part of this scenario is that through free pattern offerings, more people make awesome things based off of my patterns and when they tag me in their social media posts, I get to see and so do others who then go to find my patterns! 🙂
This is the true definition of a win-win scenario, and to me it applies the theories of Mutual Aid, which I think is important for the future of our society <3 Mutual Aid is offering freely what can be freely given with no presupposition of charity or reward – Mutual Aid is based on the theory that what is good for one of us, is in turn good for all of us, because human society is inextricably connected. We are all just threads in a great universal mandala, you guys.
Anyway, that spiel was leading up to the fact that today I’m re-releasing my previously paid-only crochet pattern, the Mandala Top, here on this blog post for FREE! If you like it you can check out my Tip Jar page here and maybe leave a little somethin’ in the Jar to help fund future offerings. What goes around comes around <3
If you want the downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF version of this pattern, you can still get it in my Ravelry Store , Ko-Fi Shop,or Etsy Shop! The free version also includes the Mandala Top Add-Ons, two bonus features you can add to your basic top design, and the paid version in my shops now include the Add-Ons PDF with the main Mandala Top in one single purchase. They were previously two separate purchases but now they are all included under the Mandala Top listing for the price of a single pattern 😉 Yay! Keep scrolling for the FREE version.
For this re-release, I made a few pearly white Mandala Tops in sizes Large and Small (small is pictured on me here), and I recorded some video tutorial footage (found at the bottom of the page) to help people navigate the Joining Round, which can be a little tricky to interpret just from the written version. I think this new video is helpful and I hope you do too!
For the model photography I went totally shabby chic, pairing my pearly white Mandala tunic with a white lacey dress, a vintage crochet collar I thrifted, and a sweet straw bucket hat because I’m obsessed with Mori Girl and Grandmacore fashion 😉
But this design also great in more colorful versions, such as the super cute hippie girl tunics modeled by my lovely friend Laney above & below.
And, for good measure, the oooooooold picture from the original release of this design, in sweet vintage-y warm browns and pinks <3
Actually, over the years I’ve made a TON of these. They are quick to work once you’re familiar with the pattern and they have always been great sellers for me when I take them to vend at festivals 🙂
Okay, so now that we’re fully inspired, on to the FREE PATTERN!
Mandala Top Pattern
Materials:
5.0 mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) 300-400 total yards worsted weight yarn in various colors Tapestry Needle Stitch Markers
Gauge: Round 1 = 5” measured straight across the diameter or 4 sts and 2 rows = 1” in dc
Half Double Crochet (hdc): Between sc and double crochet in height. Yarn over, insert hk into the next stitch. Yarn over and draw up a lp. Yarn over and pull through all three lps on the hk. Equal to 2 chains in length when joining.
Treble Crochet (tr): Equal to 4 chains in length when joining. Yarn over twice and insert hk into the next stitch. Draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw through 2 lps on the hook three times.
Double Treble Crochet (dtr): Yarn over 3 times, insert hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw through 2 lps on the hook 4 times. Equal to 5 chains in length.
Triple Treble Crochet (trtr): Yarn over 4 times, insert hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw through 2 lps on the hook 5 times
Sizes: Small – XL
Notes
Sizing: the openwork mesh structure of the garment allows for a lot of drape and stretch so that it fits a wide variety of body types. When choosing a size, keep in mind that the bust width given is the maximum length the garment will stretch from armpit to armpit without warping the appearance of the pattern.
Color Changing: This pattern is written for 5-6 different colors, but looks great with any amount of color changes. If you are working custom color changes, make sure to start at the same point the last pattern round leaves off unless the pattern indicates you may join the new yarn at any space. If you are using only one color of yarn, you’ll need to end your rounds with an equivalent sized chain space by using the Chain and Stitch Join Method, tutorial linked at the bottom of the next paragraph.
Round Closure and Counting Spaces: Some rounds use a chain and stitch combination to close the round in order to place your hook at the apex of a loop to start the following round. (Ex from Rnd 3 in Small: 2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 3. Double in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-3. 16 ch-6 spaces made.) This chain and stitch combination forms a space the same size as the rest of the chain spaces in the round and IS COUNTED as a chain-space in the final count at the end of the round instructions. For instance, the chain and stitch combo example from Rnd 3 counts as one of the 16 (for small or medium) or 20 (for large and x-large) chain-6 spaces for the entire round. For more on this technique, see my comprehensive free tutorial on closing chain-space rounds with the Chain & Stitch Join.
Instructions for Small & Medium Sizes:
To begin, make Magic Ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 9, counts as Trtr plus ch-4. (Trtr into ring, ch 4) 14 times. Trtr into the ring, ch 2, hdc in the 5th chain of beginning ch-9. 16 trtr + ch-4 spaces made. Pull your magic ring closed tightly.
Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first treble. (Treble in the next ch-4 space, ch 4, treble in the same space) 15 times. Treble in the next ch-4 space, ch 4, join with a slip stitch to the 4th chain of beginning ch-4. 16 treble V stitches made. Cut color and tie off.
Rnd 3: Join new color to any ch-4 space. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the same ch-4 space, ch-6. (2 dc in the next space, ch 6) 14 times. 2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 3. Dc in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-3. 16 ch-6 spaces made.
Rnd 4: Ch 3 – counts as first double. Double in the same ch-6 space, ch 7. (2 dc in the next space, ch 7) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 16 ch-7 spaces made. Cut yarn and tie off.
Rnd 5: Join new color in the middle of any ch-7 space. Ch 6 – counts as dc + ch-3. Dc in the same space, ch 7. ([dc, ch 3, dc, ch7] in the next ch-7 space) 14 times. Dc in the next ch-7 space, ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 3, treble in the 3rd ch of beg ch-6. 32 chain spaces made
Rnd 6: Ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 7. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 7) 31 times. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 32 chain spaces. Cut yarn and tie off.
MEDIUMS ONLY: Rnd 7: Rejoin yarn in any ch-7 space. Ch 3 to count as first dc, dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 31 times. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 32 chain spaces. Cut yarn and tie off.
Rnd 7/8 : Join new yarn to any chain space. Ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 2 times. Work (2 dtr, ch 8) twice in the next chain space. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 4 times. Work (2 dtr, ch 8) twice in the next chain space. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 22 times. 2 dc in the next space, ch 4, treble in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 34 ch-8 spaces made.
Chart shows Size M
Rnd 8/9: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 5) 3 times. Work (2 tr, ch 8, 2 tr, ch 5) in the next ch-8 space. (Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 5) 5 times. Work (2 tr, ch 8, 2 tr, ch 5) in the next ch-8 space. (Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 5) 3 times. Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8. (Dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 18 times. Dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 8. Join with a sl stitch to the first sc of the round. 55 chain spaces made. Cut yarn and tie off.
If this is the first motif made, complete Rnds 1-8/9 again to form a second motif. If this is your second motif, move on to the joining round in Round 9/10.
The following instructions work the sc border across the top half of both of the mandala motifs. This is mostly covered in the Part 1 of the Mandala Top Joining Video Tutorial, included at the bottom of the page.
JOINING: Rnd 9/10 : Join new yarn in the sixth stitch from end of the last round on the last motif (this will be the second single crochet of round 8/9.) *(1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in each of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 ch stitches, 3 hdc in the next ch stitch. Place marker in the 2nd hdc made. 1 sc in ea of the next 3 ch stitches and in ea of the next 2 treble stitches. (1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in the next sc) 5 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in ea of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in each of the next 3 ch stitches, 3 hdc in the next ch st. Place marker in the 2nd hdc made. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 ch sts, 1 sc in ea of the next 2 treble sts. (1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch sts, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts. *
Align the second motif with the first, making sure the two wrong sides are facing each other. Align the 3rd single crochet stitch from the left of the leftmost set of treble sts (or the right of the rightmost if you are a leftie) with the corresponding stitch on the second motif. Work one sc through both stitches at once. Begin to work the Rnd 9/10 pattern from * to * on the second motif, working ONLY the stitches of the second motif, and working in the direction of the nearest set of trebles. To end the round, insert hook through the next sc and through the corresponding stitch of the opposite motif (the third sc left of the leftmost set of trebles, or right of the rightmost if you are a leftie). Work a sl stitch through both stitches at once. Do not cut or tie off, move on to Round 10/11.
The following instructions work down the side of the two mandala motifs, constructing a join made of chaining and sc back and forth between the two motifs. This is described in Part 2 of the Joining Video Tutorial below, as well as in the charts pictured 🙂
Rnd 10/11: Keeping both motifs aligned, the motif on top (facing you) will be referred to as #1. The motif in back (further away from you) will be #2. You will be working a fagoting stitch join between the two motifs (See fig 3 for chart) . Working away from the nearest set of trebles, ch 3 and sc in the next Ch-5 space of #2. Ch 3, sc in the corresponding ch-5 space of #1. Ch 5, sc in the next ch-8 space of #2, ch 5, sc in the corresponding ch-8 space of #1. Ch 5, sc in the next ch-4 space of #2, ch 5, sc in the corresponding ch-4 space of #1 (fagoting joint completed) Ch 8.
Now we will work across the bottom of only one of the motifs until reaching the other side, where we will work another join.
(2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 35 times. (Beginning of next join) Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5. Sc in the corresponding space on #2, ch 5. Sc in the next ch-8 space of #1, ch 5. Sc in the corresponding ch space of #2, ch 5. Sc in the next ch-5 space of #1, ch 3, sc in the corresponding space of # 2. Ch 3, join with a slip stitch in the motif-join sc of Rnd 9/10. Cut yarn and tie off.
Rnd 10/11 makes up an extra row on the tunic, making one side slightly longer. This longer side is now the back side. Rnd 11/12 is worked in a single round around the bottom, including both front and back as two halves of the same round. I show where to start this next round in the last part of Part 2 of the video Joining Tutorial.
Rnd 11/12: With RS facing, join new yarn in the 3rd ch-8 space from the last ch-5 in the fagoting join on the back half of the top. Ch 3 to count as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. *2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4. Yarn over and draw up a lp through the next ch-8 space, yo and draw through 2 lps on the hook. Yarn over and draw up a loop through the next free chain space (skipping ch-5 of fagoting join and the chain space it is attached to). Yarn over and draw through 2 lps on the hook. Yarn over and draw through the last 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made. Ch 4. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 32 times.* Rpt from * to *. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. Cut yarn and tie off. – 69 ch spaces total.
Proceed to the Straps portion of the instructions 🙂
Instructions for Size Large:
Make Magic Ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 9, counts as Trtr plus ch-4. (Trtr into ring, ch 4) 18 times. Trtr into the ring, ch 2, hdc in the 5th chain of beginning ch-9. 20 trtr + ch-4 spaces made. Pull your magic ring closed tightly.
Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first treble. (Treble in the next ch-4 space, ch 4, treble in the same space) 19 times. Treble in the next ch-4 space, ch 4, join with a slip stitch to the 4th chain of beginning ch-4. 20 treble V stitches made. Cut color and tie off.
Rnd 3: Join new color to any ch-4 space. Ch 3 – counts as first double. Double in the same ch-4 space, ch 6. (2 dc in the next space, ch 6) 18 times. 2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 3. Double in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-3. 20 ch-6 spaces made.
See instructions for Small & Medium sizes to view the charted examples of the joins in Rnds 1-5.
Rnd 4: Ch 3 – counts as first double. Double in the same ch-6 space, ch 7. (2 dc in the next space, ch 7) 19 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 20 ch-7 spaces made. Cut yarn and tie off.
Rnd 5: Join new color in the middle of any ch-7 space. Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch-3. Dc in the same space, ch 7. ([dc, ch 3, dc, ch7] in the next ch-7 space) 18 times. Dc in the next ch-7 space, ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 3, treble in the 3rd ch of beg ch-6. 40 chain spaces made.
Rnd 6: Ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 7. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 7) 39 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-3. Cut yarn and tie off. 40 ch spaces made.
Rnd 7: Join new color in the middle of any ch-7 space. Ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch-7 space, ch 8) 38 times. 2 dc in the next space, ch 4, treble in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 40 ch-8 spaces made.
Rnd 8: Ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) 2 more times. Work (2 trtr, ch 8) twice in the next ch-8 space. (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) 4 times. Work (2 trtr, ch 8) twice in the next ch-8 space. (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) 31 times. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. Cut yarn and tie off. 42 ch-8 spaces made.
Rnd 9: Join new color in the final ch-8 space of Rnd 8. Sc in the same space as join, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 5) 3 times. (2 treble, ch 8, 2 treble, ch 5) in the next ch-8 space – 1 treble shell made. (Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 5) 5 times. (2 tr, ch 8, 2 tr, ch 5) in the next ch-8 space – 2nd treble shell made . (Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 5) 3 times. Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8. (Dc in the next ch-8 sp, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 26 times. Dc in the next ch-8 sp, ch-4, dc in the same space, ch 8. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round – 71 chain spaces made. Rpts Rnds 1-9 for second motif.
If this is the completion of Rnd 9 on your first motif, cut yarn and tie off. If this the completion of Rnd 9 on your second motif, do not tie off.
The following instructions work the sc border across the top half of both of the mandala motifs. This is mostly covered in the Part 1 of the Mandala Top Joining Video Tutorial, included at the bottom of the page
Rnd 10 (Joining) : Sl stitch in the next 5 ch sts, sl st in the next sc st. *(1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in each of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 ch stitches, 3 hdc in the next ch stitch. Place a marker in the 2nd hdc. 1 sc in ea of the next 3 ch stitches and in ea of the next 2 treble stitches. (1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in the next sc) 5 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in ea of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in each of the next 3 ch stitches, 3 hdc in the next ch st, place marker in the 2nd hdc made. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 ch sts, 1 sc in ea of the next 2 treble sts. (1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch sts, 1 sc in the next sc) 2 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts. *
Align the second motif with the first, making sure the two WS are facing each other. Align the 3rd single crochet stitch from the left of the leftmost treble shell (or the right of the rightmost if you are a leftie) with the corresponding stitch on the second motif. Work one sc through both stitches at once. Begin to work the Rnd 10 pattern from * to * on the second motif, working ONLY the stitches of the second motif, and working in the direction of the nearest treble shell. To end the round, insert hook through the next sc and through the corresponding stitch of the opposite motif (the third sc left of the leftmost treble shell, or right of the rightmost if you are a leftie). Work a sl stitch through both stitches at once. Do not tie off.
The following instructions work down the side of the two mandala motifs, constructing a join made of chaining and sc back and forth between the two motifs. This is described in Part 2 of the Joining Video Tutorial below, as well as in the charts pictured 🙂
Rnd 11: Keeping both motifs aligned, the motif on top (facing you) will be referred to as #1. The motif in back (further away from you) will be #2. You will be working a fagoting stitch join between the two motifs. (See fig 5 for chart)Working away from the nearest treble shell, ch 3 and sc in the next Ch-5 space of #2. Ch 3, sc in the corresponding ch-5 space of #1. Ch 5, sc in the next ch-8 space of #2. Ch 5, sc in the corresponding space of #1. Ch 5, sc in the next ch-4 space of #2, Ch 5, sc in the corresponding space of #1. Ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 space of #2, ch 5, sc in the corresponding ch-7 space on #1 – fagoting join completed. Chain 8. Continuing only on #1, (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 49 times. (Beginning of next join) Sc in the next ch-7 space on #1, ch 5. Sc in the corresponding space on #2, ch 5. Sc in the next ch space of #1, ch 5, sc in the corresponding space of #2, ch 5. Sc in the next ch space of #1, ch 5. Sc in the corresponding chain space of #2. Ch 5, sc in the next chain space of #1. Ch 3, sc in the corresponding space of #2, ch 3. Join with a sl stitch to the joining stitch of Rnd 10. Cut yarn and tie off.
Rnd 11 makes up an extra row on the tunic, making one side slightly longer. This longer side is now the back side. Rnd 12 is worked in a single round around the bottom, including both front and back as two halves of the same round.
Rnd 12: With RS facing, join new yarn in the 3rd ch-8 space from the last ch-5 in the fagoting join on the back half of the top. Ch 3 to count as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. *2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4. Yarn over and draw up a lp through the next ch-8 space, yo and draw through 2 lps on the hook. Yarn over and draw up a loop through the next free chain space (skipping ch-5 of fagoting join and the ch space it is attached to). Yarn over and draw through 2 lps on the hook. Yarn over and draw through the last 3 lps on the hook. Ch 4. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 46 times.* Rpt from * to *. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. Cut yarn and tie off. – 97 ch spaces total.
Proceed to Straps Instructions
Instructions for Size X-Large
Follow instructions for size Large for Rounds 1-5.
Rnd 6: Ch 4 – counts as first treble, tr in the same space, ch 7. (2 tr in the next chain space, ch 7) 38 times. 2 treble in the next chain space, ch 3. Tr in the 4th ch of beg ch-4. 40 chain spaces made.
Rnd 7: Ch 4 – counts as first treble, tr in the same space, ch 8. (2 tr in the next chain space, ch 8) 39 times. Join with a sl st to the 4th ch of beg ch-4. cut yarn and tie off. 40 chain spaces made.
Rnd 8: Join new yarn in any ch-8 space. Ch 3, dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) 2 times. Work (2 trtr, ch 8) twice in the next ch-8 space. (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) 4 times. Work (2 trtr, ch 8) twice in the next ch-8 space. (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) 30 times. Work 2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4, tr in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 42 chain spaces made.
Rnd 9: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 5) 2 times. Sc in the next space, ch 8. (2 treble crochet, ch 8) twice in the next ch-8 space – 1st treble shell made. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 5) 4 times. Sc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8. (2 treble crochet, ch 8) twice in the next ch-8 space- 2nd treble shell made. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 5) 3 times. Sc in the next space, ch 8. (Dc in the next ch sp, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 26 times. Dc in the next ch space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 8. Join with a sl st in the first sc of the round. 71 chain spaces made. Cut yarn and tie off.
Rpt Rnds 1-9 for second motif.
The following instructions work the sc border across the top half of both of the mandala motifs. This is mostly covered in the Part 1 of the Mandala Top Joining Video Tutorial, included at the bottom of the page.
Rnd 10 (Joining): Join new color in the same sc as the ending join of Rnd 9, sc in the same space. *(1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch stitches, 1 sc in the next sc) 3 times. 1 sc in ea of the next 8 ch stitches, 1 sc in each of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 ch stitches, 3 hdc in the next ch stitch – place marker in the 2nd hdc made. 1 sc in ea of the next 3 ch stitches and in ea of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in ea of the next 8 ch stitches. (1 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch sts) 5 times. Sc in the next sc and in ea of the next 8 ch sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 treble stitches. 1 sc in each of the next 3 ch stitches, 3 hdc in the next ch st – place marker in 2nd hdc made, 1 sc in ea of the next 4 ch sts, 1 sc in ea of the next 2 treble sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 8 ch sts. (1 sc in the next sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 ch sts) 3 times. *
Align the second motif with the first, making sure the two WS are facing each other. Align the 4th single crochet stitch from the left of the leftmost treble shell (or the right of the rightmost if you are a leftie) with the corresponding stitch on the second motif. This should be the next stitch to be worked after finishing the Rnd 10 instructions above. Work one sc through both stitches at once. Begin to work the Rnd 10 pattern from * to * on the second motif, working ONLY the stitches of the second motif, and working in the direction of the nearest treble shell. To end the round, insert hook through the next sc and through the corresponding stitch of the opposite motif (the 4th sc left of the leftmost treble shell, or right of the rightmost if you are a leftie). Work a sl stitch through both stitches at once. Do not tie off.
The following instructions work down the side of the two mandala motifs, constructing a join made of chaining and sc back and forth between the two motifs. This is described in Part 2 of the Joining Video Tutorial below, as well as in the charts pictured 🙂
Rnd 11: Keeping both motifs aligned, the motif on top (facing you) will be referred to as #1. The motif in back (further away from you) will be #2. You will be working a fagoting stitch join between the two motifs. (See fig 6 for chart) Working away from the nearest treble shell, ch 5 and sc in the next Ch-8 space of #2. (Ch 5, sc in the next chain space of #1. Ch 5, sc in the next chain space of #2.) 3 times. Ch 5, sc in the next chain space of #1. Ch 8. (Fagoting join made). Working only in #1, (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 47 times. (Beginning of next join) Sc in the next chain space, ch 5. Sc in the corresponding space on #2, ch 5. (Sc in the next chain space of #1, ch 5. Sc in the corresponding ch space of #2, ch 5) 3 times. Join with a slip stitch in the motif-join sc of Rnd 10. Cut yarn and tie off.
Rnd 11 makes up an extra row on the tunic, making one side slightly longer. This longer side is now the back side. Rnd 12 is worked in a single round around the bottom, including both front and back as two halves of the same round.
Rnd 12: With RS facing, join new yarn in the 3rd ch-8 space from the last ch-5 in the fagoting join on the back half of the top. Ch 3 to count as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 8) twice. *2 dc in the next ch-5 space – the last chain space of the fagoting join, ch 8. 2 dc in the next unworked chain space, ch 8.* (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 46 times.* Rpt from * to *. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 44 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. Cut yarn and tie off. – 93 ch spaces total.
Proceed to the Straps Instructions 🙂
Straps Instructions
For more detailed instructions on working the Double Chain technique, see my free tutorial here.
If you plan on making the Drop Sleeves pattern add-on, work the following extra DCh stitches on each strap. In case you need to adjust the length, do not weave in the ends.
Small & Medium: 10 extra DCh
Large: 13 extra DCh
X-Large: 15 extra Dch
Attach new yarn to the hdc marked with a stitch marker on any of the points on your motifs, ch 1. Sc in the same space as join (#1). Work 1 double chain into the side of the single crochet stitch (#2). DCh 24 (#3). Insert hook into the side of last DCh stitch and also through the corresponding marked hdc on the opposite motif and draw up a loop (#4). Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook (#5). Secure with a sl st in the next hdc of the motif. Cut yarn and tie off, repeat on the other side for the second strap. Weave in all ends.
Mandala Top Joining Tutorial Video: Part 1
This video starts at the joining round, which is Round 10 for Medium – XL and Rnd 9 for Small.
Mandala Top Joining Tutorial Video: Part 2
Once you’ve finished with your Mandala Top, weave in all ends. This piece looks best if you take the bottom hem and gently stretch the mesh downward, especially at the side joins, to get all the stitches to settle in that direction – creating a nice drapey shape. Pulling out the bottom loops and letting them settle makes a huge difference in the appearance of the finished crochet mesh!
P.S – After I finished the original Mandala Top design years ago, I began to play around with the possibility of adding sleeves and making it more of a layering sweater dress – and thus the Flower Child Pullover was born! You can find that design as a paid PDF in my Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop – in case you are interested 😉
Acorns are easily one of the cutest things produced by trees. Their little round nutshells topped with a perfectly fitted cap, textured in minute detail, forcibly remind me of a wee head wearing a jaunty beret style hat – and I’m certainly not the first to try to recreate such a garment inspired by this adorable thing!
So when I set out to crochet an acorn-inspired hat, I wanted lots of texture and whimsy in the final design, something that would evoke the acorn while still capturing a spirit of otherness; something the little folk of the drawings of Cicely Mary Barker might want to adorn themselves with 🙂
Of course, I immediately set my mind on the crocodile stitch for this purpose. Though this stitch is an advanced one, I love it for the sense of magic it imparts to any crochet piece and that’s why I’ve created several patterns featuring this stitch already. The crocodile stitch is a special type of post stitching, so if you’ve never encountered post stitches, I’ve written a free Post Stitch tutorial right here on my blog! I do go over the crocodile stitch as well in this post 😉
So today I’m very excited to introduce the Oak Sprite Hat, an adult-sized acorn hat / beret design which features crocodile stitch worked in rounds from center to brim, edged with simple half double crochets and topped with the cutest little acorn cap stem. I also include a few notes on how to make this hat smaller for truly wee heads!
The pattern is available both for FREE as a video crochet tutorial series and as a paid PDF file in my Etsy Shop ,Ravelry Store, and Ko-Fi Shop! Keep scrolling for the free crochet tutorial and videos or support my art directly by buying the PDF at the links above!
I worked several of these hats to finalize the crochet pattern, and while in the process I debated about whether or not to make the crocodile stitches point downward, as the scales do on an actual acorn cap, but in the end I remembered that primary rule from taking art classes in college – suggest, rather than tell. The hat’s acorn-ness isn’t really compromised by this detail, and besides – I really just liked them better pointing upward. This way the green version reminded me of a thistle blossom, which I accented by adding a bright pink poofball!
For those wondering, I don’t currently have plans to do a version of this myself with the croc stitches pointing downward, although it can be done – if you’re interested in trying it, it would work from the brim toward the center, and use decreases rather than increases. I may be so bold as to suggest investing in my Sylphie Hat Pattern, which works the croc stitches in that direction, to get familiar with that method 🙂
Anywho, Here are all the details of the pattern you need to make this must-have woodland accessory, and below you’ll find the three-part video tutorial series for working the Oak Sprite Hat. If you like this video I do have more on my YouTube channel, check it out if you like and thanks for visiting – clicks, shares, tags, tip jar donations, and pattern purchases are my livelihood and I am eternally grateful for my kind and generous audience (YOU) that makes it all possible! <3 <3
Oak Sprite Hat
Materials
5.00 mm hook – or size needed to obtain gauge
#4 weight yarn – listed below are the specific yarns used to make each hat. Recommended yarn is Caron Simply Soft. Scissors, tapestry needle
Finished Measurements: 23″ circumference for brim 33″ circumference for widest part of crown 7-8″ tall from tip to brim (not including stem)
Notes: Hat can be made a smaller overall size by skipping the final round of increases (Round 5) leaving the total number of croc stitches at 12. 12 croc stitches is ~16” circumference, or baby/child size. In this case you’ll want to work the brim at 48 stitches, without the decreases, unless decreases are necessary for the size being made. Hat can also be made a bit shorter by skipping one or two of the final rounds of non-increasing. 5 rounds are written in the pattern but 4 or even 3 can be done instead. There is a note in the written pattern where this is optional! 😊
Stitches & Abbreviations
Chain (ch) Double Crochet (dc) Slip Stitch (sl st) Half Double Crochet (hdc) Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog, a decrease) Single Crochet (sc) Magic Ring (MR): A method of starting a circle with a tight center by working the first round of stitches into a yarn loop, then pulling the yarn tail tight to adjust the loop. Back Post Half Double (bphdc): Working the stitch into the post of the stitch below, inserting the hook from the back, around the post in the front, and re-emerging to catch the yarn in the back.
Special Stitches: Picot: Picot is made by chaining 3 stitches, then slip stitching in the top of the last dc made to form a small loop. I use the two front loops of the last dc to work the slip stitch into. Picots are made in place of the normal ch-1 that occurs in the middle of a croc stitch scale to create the Picot Croc Stitch.
Picot Croc Stitch (PCS): A crocodile stitch with a picot in the middle in place of the normal ch-1.
Crocodile Stitch (croc stitch/st): This is a type of crochet stitch that creates a 3-D effect of a petal or scale. The croc stitch is a special style of post stitching.
It works by creating an underlying framework of alternating “single” (1) dc and “paired” (2) dc sets, separated by a ch-1.
Pictured above is the framework for a row of croc stitches. Once this row is created, the croc stitches are worked across the same row, overlapping.
Crocodile stitches are a type of post stitch, meaning that the hook is inserted around the main body of the stitch instead of the top two loops as normal. The stitch is then worked around the “post”, meaning that the space underneath the stitch is used and the body of the stitch holds the actual stitches. This is an advanced stitch and does take some getting used to as well as adjusting direction and hold of the fabric to achieve.
Croc stitches have 5 dc worked (from the top of the dc down to the bottom) into the post of the first dc of the paired set of dc, then a chain (or in this case picot) is made, before switching directions and working 5 more dc into the next dc of the paired set, working from the bottom of the stitch to the top. Each scale is secured by working a slip stitch into the next singly standing dc before moving on to the next scale.
Pictured above is the direction of post stitches worked to form the crocodile scale (for right-handers, this will be reversed for lefties)
Once a row/round of crocodile stitches is complete, the next row/round will build another framework for the next layer of croc stitches by working the alternating single (1) dc and paired (2) dc into the previous stitches:
Above picture illustrates how the framework for the next row of croc stitches is placed. Each paired dc is worked into the single dc which lies below, which is referred to as the space or stitch between scales. Each singly standing dc is worked into the middle space of the scale below, between the paired doubles underneath.
This pattern works Picot Croc Stitches (PCS) in the round, starting from the center of the hat. To achieve this, we will be working PCS increases, which means that the framework of the rounds will sometimes place 2 sets of paired dc in the same st between scales, each set separated by a ch-1 on either side and a singly standing dc in the middle. This sets us up to work 2 croc stitches in that space.
Pictured above is the croc stitch increase framework: (2 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the same st.
Oak Sprite Hat Video Tutorial Part 1
Video Tutorial Part 2
Video Tutorial Part 3
I hope you found this pattern to be helpful and interesting, and are inspired to create lots of clever pixie adornments for your friends and family! If you’ve caught the crocodile stitch bug like I have, here are some other patterns I offer that feature this stitch:
I’ve always had a natural love of animals and being raised in the country meant I had a lot of exposure to all sorts of them – in particular I loved the white-tailed deer that would sometimes appear on the edges of the yard, majestic and graceful but powerful as well. Anyone raised around their natural habitat knows that deer, even peaceful-seeming and retiring does, are not to be trifled with.
So, certainly not for the first time on this blog, today’s crochet project is deer themed! I already have a number of horn and antler patterns available and thought it would be fun to put together a free video tutorial for the Yearling Headband that shows how to crochet this super elastic, comfortable, useful and above all ADORBS self-care accessory using some of my favorite crochet tricks!
Keep scrolling for the FREE crochet pattern & video!
The antlers in this headband are a two-tine version of the “Forest Guide” rack, made with smaller yarn and hook than the original – you can use the recommended materials in this post, the video, or choose your own, just make sure your gauge is tight so there isn’t a lot of space between stitches (aka amigurumi style).
The headband with the pink petals features what I call my “Twig Horns” which are a cute, more cartoon-y set of nubby antlers featured in my Mori Beret. They are quicker and not as cumbersome if you want a more low-key headband – directions for those appear in written form under the original antler video below!
Introduction to Yearling Headband
Live-action introduction to this project : sorry for my obvious awkwardness, I’m not used to doing face videos yet 😉
Materials
Yarn: Various, good project for scrap yarns 50-100 yards each- I used a thick #6 weight yarn for the headband #2 yarn for the beige antlers #3 yarn for the brown antlers #5 yarn for the leaves
5.50 mm hook (headband) 3.25 hook for beige antlers 3.50 mm hook for brown antlers 5.00 mm hook for leaves
20″ circular elastic – I bought mine in a pack from the hair accessories section of the pharmacy, you could also use regular craft elastic sewn in a circle or knotted. 2 12″ craft pipe cleaners (for large horns) Small amount of polyester fiberfill or cotton batting (to stuff antlers) Tapestry needle, yarn needle, scissors
Headband Base
To create the base for the headband, I used my 5.50 mm hook and chunky yarn to crochet around the elastic band, working in a full circle one direction then turning and working in between the stitches in the opposite direction:
Yearling Antlers
As I mentioned earlier, the antlers on the brown headband are a version of the Forest Guide antlers that only use the first 2 tines, and work in #2 yarn and a 3.25 hook. The first two videos cover these antlers, with the same written instructions appearing below the videos. For the smaller antlers, keep scrolling for the written pattern!
The first video demonstrates the first tine, which is the biggest and longest. To make any other length of tine, follow the instructions of the First Tine for only the rounds indicated in the video, or below in the written version of this antler pattern! The second video covers how to construct the antlers.
Written instructions: Main Tine (Make 2:
Worked continuously in the round, place marker in the first stitch of every round to keep track.
With 3.75 hook and #4 accent color beige, make magic ring. Rnd 1: 3 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 3 sts Rnd 2: 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st. – 4 sts Rnd 3: 1 sc in ea st. – 4 sts Rnd 4: Rpt rnd 3 Rnd 5: 1 sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in the next st. – 5 sts Rnd 6: 1 sc in ea st. – 5 sts Rnd 7: Rpt rnd 6 Rnd 8: 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. – 6 sts Rnd 9: 1 sc in ea st. – 6 sts Rnds 10-11: Rpt Rnd 9. Rnd 12: *2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. Rpt from * once more. – 8 sts. Rnd 13: 1 sc in ea st. – 8 sts Rnds 14-15: Rpt Rnd 13 Rnd 16: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts. – 9 sts Rnd 17: 1 sc in ea st. – 9 sts Rnds 18 – 19: Rpt Rnd 17 Rnd 20: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. – 10 sts Rnd 21: 1 sc in ea st. – 10 sts Rnds 22 – 30: Rpt Rnd 21 Rnd 31: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. – 12 sts Rnd 32: 1 sc in ea st. – 12 sts. Slip stitch in the next few stitches to finish. Cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.
2nd Tine (Make 2):
Work Rounds 1 – 14 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 14, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.
3rd Tine (Make 2): Work Rounds 1 – 12 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 12, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.
4th Tine (Make 2):
Work Rounds 1 – 10 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 10, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Antler Construction:
Follow the video for a tutorial on stuffing and constructing the antlers – this video shows the full antler with all tines, but you can do as many as you wish and position them as you like.
With polyester fiberfill and stick, stuff a tiny bit of filling in the tip of the Main Tine. Take one 12” 6mm pipe cleaner and fold in half, twisting loose ends together to form a flat loop. Insert twisted end into the Main tine, leaving a small bit of loop sticking out of the opening. Gently fill the bottom part of the Main Tine around the wire armature with poly fill. Roll and massage the piece to even out the filling – do not overstuff! It should still be flexible and posable on the armature.
Gently stuff the 2nd tine with a small amount of fiberfill. With tapestry needle, thread long yarn tail of the 2nd Tine. Position about halfway up the Main Tine and sew around the base of the 2nd tine.
You can also follow the written pattern for the Twig Horns below, if you want low-key fawn vibes!
Twig Antlers:
Using 3.50 hook and #3 or #4 weight accent yarn:
Make 2 of each tine. Worked continuously in the round. Use a stitch marker to keep track of rounds.
Main Tine:
Rnd 1: Make Magic Ring. 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly. Rnd 2: 1 sc in ea sc around. – 6 sts Rnd 3: *1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc. Rpt from * around. – 9 sts Rnds 4-13: 1 sc in ea st around. – 9 sts Rnd 14: *1 sc in ea of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc. Rpt from * around. – 12 sts
Sl st in the next 2-3 sts, cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
2nd Tine
Rnd 1: Make Magic Ring. 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly. Rnd 2: 1 sc in ea sc around. – 6 sts Rnd 3: *1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc. Rpt from * around. – 9 sts Rnds 4-8: 1 sc in ea st around. – 9 sts
Sl st in the next 2-3 sts. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Assembly:
Thread the long tail of the 2nd tine onto a tapestry needle and sew around the base onto the main tine. Weave in the ends. Rpt for other antler.
Leaf Motif
I originally designed this little leaf/petal pattern years ago, looking for a quick and easy leaf that could be worked into long chains. It’s now in several of my designs and a favorite go-to when adding decoration and texture to a piece. Follow this video demo for how to work this leaf in clusters of three or four. Written instructions below the video!
Leaf Motif:
For a more detailed photo breakdown, see the original blog post here. With 5.00 mm hook and #5 bulky or #4 worsted yarn:
* Ch 5 – last 2 ch counts as the beg ch-2 in the leaf motif. In the 3rd ch from the hook, work 4 dc, ch-2 length picot in the last dc made, 3 hdc in the same stitch. Rotate, working in the same st on the other side of the beg chain, 2 hdc. Join motif in the round with a sl st in the 2nd ch of beg ch-2. Sl st in the 2nd ch st from the motif.* Rpt * to * 4 times total. Sl st in the bottom of the first motif to join the 4 leaves in a circle. Cut yarn and tie off – 4 leaves
Final Assembly
Try your headband on and mark all the spots where you want your antlers, leaves, or other decorations to go…
With tapestry needle, use the long yarn tails to stitch the elements onto the headband. Thread yarn through the wire loops underneath the yearling antlers if you’ve got them, and pull the loops through the stitching so they are fully embedded in the yarn headband. Stitch tightly around the yarn base of the antler. Repeat for other antler.
Using yarn or tapestry needle, sew the leaf rings into the headband (I like them on the sides under the antlers) and pin down the tips of the leaves if you want them to lie flat.
Weave in all remaining ends – voila! A fawn is born!
Quarantine has made me feral and I am unlikely to return.
I could go on and on with other ideas for this kind of design, from woodland creature ear variations to radical colorful freeform pieces, and I hope some of those neat variations get made and I get to see them! As always I love seeing what you make from my designs – tag @moralefiber on Instagram for your projects!
