Or is it a re-re-release? Since I drafted the written pattern for this design in 2015 as a paid pattern, the Mandala Tam has been through several iterations and edits, but I’m so pleased with the latest version. Having offered it for free since 2017, it’s time this favorite design of mine returned to PDF availability!
You can grab the PDF crochet pattern for the Mandala Tam in my pattern stores via Ravelry, Etsy, or Ko-fi! There’s a special introductory price on my Ko-Fi platform exclusively, so head there to get $2 off the price until August 15. You can also get the same instructions for FREE by following this link to my original free pattern blog post. 🙂
[I’m pictured here wearing a pendant wire-wrapped by my good friend @paliquinn, check out his work on Instagram]
It’s the perfect time of year for it too, as I always return to this style of hat around late summer and early autumn – for good reason. Slouchy style hats are so perfect for tucking hair into to escape muggy, frizz-inducing heat or early morning chill on damp tresses, two primary features of the season. I also used to wear these kinds of hats often to classes when I was at college, since they were so practical and kept my hair out of the shoulder straps of my bags! Here’s the info on the latest update to this project:
The Mandala Tam pattern includes two different sizes of hat, a Small netted cap for those with less hair, and a Large mesh tam that can fit quite a lot of locks inside! This is an easy project with a quick finishing time that makes a really useful and pretty little accessory. The button & strap decoration is optional, if you leave it off you won’t need the 6.50 size hook listed in the materials.
Materials: 5.00 mm hook, 6.50 mm hook – (If not making the optional button & strap decoration at the brim, 6.5 mm hook is not needed)
Yarn: Any #4 weight yarn, around 200 yards –Recommended yarn is Red Heart Unforgettable (#4, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic). Lion Brand Landscapes is also an excellent choice!
Main Gauge: 3 ½” in diameter (edge to edge measured across the center) at the end of Rnd 3 Post Stitch Gauge: 6 sts = 2” in FPDC/BPDC pattern Make sure to check your gauge and use hook size needed to obtain gauge listed.
Sizes & Finished Measurements: This hat design has a Small size and a Large size! The brim size is the same, but the length of the back of the hat is different depending on how much hair you’d like to tuck in there Small (Somewhat Slouchy): 22” brim, 8-9” depth, 8” diameter laid flat. Large (Very slouchy): 22” brim, 11-12” depth, 10.5” diameter laid flat.
I have a number of other similar hat designs that are slouchy and generally tam or beret shaped – here’s a peek! First is the Leafy Tam, free or PDF <3
There’s the super-cute Mori Beret, paid PDF, with a bunch of foresty customization options <3
The Filigree Lace Cap is a really elegant mesh style cap with more delicate netting, featuring my popular Lotus Mandala for the center motif!
One of my most challenging themed hats, the Oak Sprite Acorn Cap, is available for FREE with full video instructions, or as a paid PDF!
If you’ve made it this far into my obligatory self-promotion, be rewarded with news of yet ANOTHER sale! If you follow me on Instagram or Facebook, you may have seen me feature my Yggdrasil Poncho recently – the PDF for this unique design is currently (through the end of August) also $2 off exclusively on my Ko-Fi Shop platform!
I’ve been offering more sales via Ko-Fi as an encouragement to purchase through this great website, which allows me to pay a small reasonable annual fee in order to make sales of my patterns without paying commission fees to the website for each individual sale. This results in a better profit for me, which is great because as an online artist, just about everyone gets a cut and all those little fees add up fast 🙂
This is a great time to say another big THANK YOU to all the amazing fiber artists out there who work my designs and share their beautiful skill with the world! Keep tagging me on Insta, I love love love seeing all your amazing work and tagging me in your projects definitely helps keep sales and views up! <3
Do you think I’ve made enough pointy hat designs by now? I don’t! 🙂
Keep for details and for the FREE crochet pattern instructions for this hat, or if you want to support my art directly, consider buying the portable, printable, ad-free PDF version of this pattern! It’s available in my Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop, but we’re adding something: the Domovoy Cap is also available in my new Ko-Fi Shop <3 I’m using this pattern to test out this new shop front and am very excited about the possibilities – try it out, let me know what you think, and stay tuned for further developments 🙂 But don’t worry, I’ll still be using Etsy and Ravelry !
Prompted by a cute outfit photo I saw somewhere floating in the ether, this little velveteen cap design practically FLEW off my hook once I decided to make it. With a mischievous peaked top that expands down into a short fitted brim and subtle post stitch ribbed texture at the edge, this free crochet hat project is full of impish charm!
I named it the “Domovoy Cap” – a domovoy being the Slavic spirit of household and ancestors (click here for a Wikipedia article about them). These spirits provide important protection for the animals and family of a house, and must be appeased with offerings in order to procure their blessings and assistance.
Bernat Velvet is the recommended yarn for this project, and you’ll need less than half a skein to get one cap, so it’s perfect for using up spare balls of the stuff. I worked almost the whole hat in single crochet to eliminate Velvet’s tendency to “pull out” of the stitch due to the pile of the fiber (which happens if you work this kind of yarn in regular hdc stitches or taller). The end result is an easy project that looks adorable, feels soft as butter, and can be made in a day for maximum finished-object satisfaction.
I myself made a bunch of these, tweaking and re-tweaking to get JUUUUUST the right shape, and even did a few smaller versions – modifications for kids’ sizes are given in the notes of the pattern 🙂
Domovoy Cap Pattern
Materials:
5.00 mm hook Bernat Velvet (#5 bulky, 300 g / 315 yards, 100% Polyester) – 1 skein
Scissors & yarn needle
Gauge: 3 sts & 3 rows – 1”
Finished Measurements (approximate): 22” brim (16-18″ for child size modificiation) 10.5” tall (from tip to bottom edge)
Stitches & Abbreviations: magic ring (mr) – free tutorial from my blog here single crochet (sc) slip stitch (sl st) half-double crochet (hdc) half-double crochet decrease / half double crochet 2 together (hdc2tog) front post half double crochet (fphdc) back post half double crochet (bphdc) free tutorial for post stitching found on my blog here stitch/es (st/s) each (ea) round (rnd)
Notes: Initial ch-1 at beginning of rounds does not count as first st. This pattern uses parenthetical repeats. Instructions occurring within () should be repeated as written as many times as the number directly after indicates. Ex: “()5 times”
Notes for how to modify the hat to fit children’s sizes is included in the written portion of the pattern where deviating from the original instructions.
Make magic ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc – see Notes) 3 sc into the ring. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 3 sts
Working into single crochet in a 3-stitch round can be pretty tight– the tension of the first round gives a nice pointed tip to the cap, but if you are struggling to work so few stitches in the round, you can work 6 single crochet into the initial Magic Ring instead, join with a slip stitch, then pick up the pattern from Rnd 3.
Rnd 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in the same st as join. 2 sc in ea of the next two sts. Join with a sl st. – 6 sts
Rnd 3: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 6 sts
Rnd 4: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Sl st in the first sc to join. – 9 sts
Rnd 5: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. – 9 sts
Rnd 6: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in the next st. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Sl st to join. – 12 sts
Rnd 7: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. – 12 sts
Rnd 8: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 18 sts
Rnd 9: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. – 18 sts
Rnd 10: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in the next st. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts
Rnd 11: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. – 24 sts
Rnd 12: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 30 sts
Rnd 13: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. – 30 sts
Rnd 14: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Joint with a sl st. – 36 sts
Rnd 15: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts
Rnd 16: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 42 sts
Rnd 17: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 42 sts
Rnd 18: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. -48 sts
Rnd 19: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. Join with a sl st.– 48 sts
Rnd 20: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts
Rnd 21: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts
If you wish to make a child size hat with a circumference of 18 inches (standard size for 1-3 year old), skip Rnd 22 and proceed to work Rnds 23-26 at 54 total stitches per round.
This is figured by taking the gauge (3 sts per inch) and finding the desired circumference for the hat (18”) for the formula (3 sts x 18 inches = 54 sts). You can use the same formula for smaller hats such as baby size (16 inches x 3 = 48 sts per round, so you’d stop increasing at Rnd 18 and then skip to Rnds 23-26. You may need to adjust the length by adding extra non-increasing rows if you do this, however.
Rnd 22: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts
Rnds 23-26: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st as join and in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts
Rnd 27: Ch 2. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 1 hdc2tog over the next 2 sts, making a hdc dec (see Notes). (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 1 hdc2tog) 5 times. – 54 sts.
8 hdc made. To make hdc2tog dec, work as follows:
YO and draw up a loop from next stitch
YO and draw up a loop from next stitch again – 2 stitches now have been worked, 5 loops on the hook
YO once more
Draw through all loops on the hook
If you’ve modified the pattern for smaller size, Rnd 27 stitch counts will be different – just make sure you decrease by 6 stitches, placing the hdc2tog decreases at regular intervals.
Rnd 28: Ch 2. 1 fphdc in the same st as join. 1 fphdc in ea of the next 2 sts. 1 bphdc in ea of the next 3 sts. (1 fphdc in ea of the next 3 sts, 1 bphdc in ea of the next 3 sts) around. Join with a sl st in the first fphdc of the round.
For fphdc, YO as normal and insert hook around the body of the stitch below, working in the front as shown
Draw up loop, YO and complete a hdc st. 1 fphdc made. Complete 2 more.
For bphdc, YO as normal and insert hook around the body of the stitch below, working in the back as shown.
Draw up a loop, YO and complete a hdc sts. 1 bphdc made. Complete 2 more.
Rpt around as indicated for Rnd 28.
Rnd 29: Rpt Rnd 28.
Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in ends.
I hereby offer this design to honor the Domovoy, and pray for kinship and peace <3 -MF
P.S – during the development of this design, my particular household referred to these as “the nipple hats” lol 😉
I’m so grateful for the gorgeous autumn we’ve had here this year, and the abundant opportunities to go play outside before the weather got truly chilling.
Now unfortunately my toes are icicles when I go out to exercise in the morning and the slush season appears imminent, but why bemoan that when I have a huge yarn stash to disappear under for the winter? 😉
Yep, my busiest time of the year for Morale Fiber has passed and now I have the busiest time of the year for family upcoming, with all the coziest home bakes and warm blankets. This fall has been especially hectic because I’ve operated everything having to do with the digital side of running Morale Fiber from my phone, having lost my laptop to a hardware crash this past summer.
Combined with a bunch of other fun personal life happenings, I’ve really had a juggling act on my hands. Thats why I’ve decided to take a little digital vacation this season!
Pictured above: playing with my Yearling Headband in the studio last year
Beginning November 25, I’ll be taking a digital vacation from posting on the Morale Fiber blog & social media. Don’t worry, I’ll still be answering all my emails & messages – so as always don’t hesitate to contact me with pattern questions 🙂 But I’ll be using the extra time to focus on family, friends, and being present in the moment instead of on my phone <3 I’ll be back on my social media game (and hopefully on a new laptop) in the New Year!
But of course, it’s just a *digital* vacation – I have lots of real life projects heaped on my desk. Wanna see?
First up is what I’ve been working on the past few days – a batch run of my Flower Child Pullover design, linked above. This is to get my brain reacquainted with this crochet pattern so I can record some video tutorials for it:)
I gathered a pile of colors inspired by succulent plants 🪴 for this batch! In #4 weight acrylics, this design is really great as a scrapbuster and color therapy project 🌈
I’ve gotten a bunch of questions on this design recently so I thought it was time for a good overview! My dearest ambition is to get this pattern expanded for larger sizes, but I need to actually figure out how how do that first! Haha 😉
I’ve also got a fistful of BIG new designs in the works, but most of then are a good while from being completed – I only just finished the main draft of the shawl design I mention in my latest business video, after a significant stay in the Misbehaving Project Time-Out Corner…
I haven’t been doing any custom crochet work for a while now, because the digital side of Morale Fiber takes so much time these days, but it’s definitely Gift Crafting season and it’s got me thinking about all the quick, easy and FREE patterns I have available on this blog – so I’d like to end this little journal entry with a collection of crochet patterns for gift ideas! 🎁 follow the links below to go to the free pattern 🧚♀️
I’ve stayed pretty busy since the last big pattern release, so when 2/3rds of October sped by in a blink, I wasn’t surprised.
I’m so grateful for all the support my latest design the Yggdrasil Poncho received! I love creating and it’s just so fun to share my love of crochet with others who know that same joy.
Of course, I also am seeing lots of fun costume projects this time of year made from my free patterns like the Hedge Witch Hat, the Classic Witch Hat, and the Krampus Hat… Thank you all for tagging me 🙂
I also reminisce this time of year on some of my other favorites from my designs, like the versatile Pixie Pocket Belt tutorial (I’m working on one of these right now actually) and the one of a kind Costume Mega Tail tutorial.
Autumn is really an amazing time, so happy and sad all at once. I’ve been tending to the living spaces, cleaning and buckling down for winter. The weather has been quite fine so I took some hiking time in my favorite source of inspiration, nature!
I usually like slow-burn projects to come to the fore this time of year, like spinning (so cozy) and my long term knitting voyage…
I just recently completed my 100th hexipuff for this project above: here’s Mister 100!
Yes, I’ve been happy and sad this season, as it is the time of year for remembrance of those we’ve lost. I lost friends this time two years ago, and this year have lost some older relatives, also. Time passes and we do the best we can to mark it as there is only so much to be had – and that’s why fiber arts directly represent love to me. We spend time spinning the threads or drawing the loops, precious time, dedicating it to another or perhaps just to ourselves. We leave our love in those fibers in the form of moments of thought, weaving a spell.
It all started in fall of 2015 when I searched around the internet for a good, simple crochet beret pattern, one with a classic shape good for regular ol’ worsted yarns.
Finding nothing that appealed to my particular idea of what I wanted, I sat down and crocheted it myself and debuted the pattern for free as the Sweetheart Beret, in an ancient long-buried blog post with an atrocious lack of photography skills :/ In 2018, I revamped that pattern and offered a cute deer antler version, again for free, on a slightly better photographed blog post as the Forest Girl Beret.
The Forest Girl Beret continues to be offered for free via the link above, but perhaps I can interest you in a re- re- RE- vamped pattern, now with even more cute extras?
Because I just can’t leave well enough alone, when I decided to create a paid PDF option for the Forest Girl Beret I also rewrote the pattern just slightly, fixed a few wonky spots, and created full written instructions for new features like ears, spots, and leaves!
I’m calling it the Mori Beret, true to it’s original inspiration from the Japanese style subculture <3 And I made FIVE versions of this cute hat because I couldn’t resist a multi-creature photoshoot 😉
The Mori Beret starts with a basic, easy pattern the utilizes worsted weight yarn and half-double crochet to create a beret or tam style hat with a timeless silhouette. The main hat pattern includes tips for custom sizing and bright tutorial photos to show the details of the pattern.
Stick with the classic, sleek beret style and make one for every outfit or create a cute and whimsical wardrobe staple by adding one (or several!) of the 5 Extra Feature options: Mini Antlers, Ears (Small or Large), Leaves, or Mushroom Speckles!
The perfect classic and classy beret hat for any style <3
Materials:
5.00 mm hook (main hat) 3.50 mm hook (optional, for extra features) – or sizes needed to obtain gauge
#4 weight yarn (Main Hat) – 175-200 yards
#4 accent yarn, 25-50 yds (optional, for Extra Features)
Tapestry needle Scissors
Finished Measurements (for standard hat, approximate): 22” brim, 11” diameter across the top when laid flat, 9” depth
Oh, and those fingerless gloves I’m wearing are the Rambler’s Mitts, a free pattern from my blog, worked in Bernat Velvet <3
No sooner than I released the totally-free crochet pattern for the Hedge Witch Hat, did I realize I wanted to add some tweaks to the general shape of it! Typical of me really – I’ve never once put out a pattern that I didn’t want to keep modifying in some way. Unfortunately, not matter how finicky I get, I could always keep changing a bit here and a bit there, and so at some point I just have to commit and get it done with.
The lovely Sarina modeling her custom Hedge Witch Hat!
After all, I can come back to it later. Which is exactly what I’ve done with here! In this case the design modifications are minor – I wanted the silhouette to be a LITTLE more curved and forward-set.
Because the two variations are similar but each with it’s own charm, I couldn’t decide which I liked better – so the pattern update includes the instructions for BOTH varieties!
You can get the updated, totally free version of this easy and cute crochet pattern on my blog via the original post.
The new version is also getting the spiffy PDF treatment – so now the entire updated pattern is available as a purchaseable, downloadable, ad-free PDF!
Paid patterns make up the vast majority of my business income so if you like this pattern and want to use it more in the future, please consider supporting me by buying the paid version. And of course, more support means more great Morale Fiber designs in the future 😉
Sharing my art is my passion and I couldn’t do it without you <3 Read on for more info on the Hedge Witch Hat PDF!
This quick, easy, and stylish little witch hat is not just a cute version of a Halloween favorite – it may just charm its way into your everyday wardrobe! Great made with any #4 worsted weight acrylic yarn, this simple design comes in two style options with plenty of room for customizing with color or adorable add-ons like flowers or patches.
Worked in half-double crochet, this pattern utilizes a special technique to keep the seam straight called the Switchback Join – instructions and tutorial link are included in the written pattern along with lots of the usual features – clear tutorial photos, step-by-step directions, stitch counts, and all the details you need to make this quick project!
Materials: 3.75 mm hk #4 weight yarn – Approximately 200-250 yds Scissors & tapestry needle
Gauge: 4 sts & 3 rows – 1” in hdc
Finished measurements: ~ 25″ on the inside, 36″ brim on the outside, 9-10″ height
Types: A (Pointier, black & dark gray versions), B (Rounder, light gray and tan versions)
All instructions are in English in U.S terminology.
I’m already plotting some crochet patches to put on these babies – perhaps a Crochet Patch pattern series is in order, no? 🙂 I have a couple good candidates already! Follow the links below for more Free Patterns:
At the center of the Embla Vest (pictured above) is the Tree of Life motif, which you can get for free on my blog and would make a great patch!
Sounds trendy to talk about how much you love Halloween these days, but like, I really love Halloween guys. No trend shame here. That’s why despite the myriad and awesome crochet witch hat patterns out there, I had to design my own. I wanted a certain look and after a few tries, I really like what I came up with!
UPDATE 5/28/20 – I have added a second variation to this hat – there are now instructions for both Type A (appearing first – a bit taller and pointier) and Type B (appearing below Type A instructions, a little shorter and curvier). I’ve also added a purchasable, downloadable, ad-free PDF for this pattern in my Etsy Shop, Ko-fi Shop, and Ravelry Store! <3 thank you!
This free crochet pattern works with worsted weight yarn in half double stitches, and utilizes the Switchback Join technique to keep the seam straight, which you can find in this free tutorial on my blog!
Please excuse the fact that I had way too much fun creating a vintage witch photoshoot 😉
Hedge Witch Hat
Show Above: Type A
Materials: 3.75 mm hk #4 weight yarn – Approximately 200-250 yds
Gauge: 4 sts & 3 rows – 1” in hdc
Finished measurements: ~ 25″ on the inside, 36″ brim on the outside, 9-10″ height
Types: A (Pointier, black & dark gray versions), B (Rounder, light gray and tan versions)
(Show above: Type B. Also wearing the Embla Vest!Show above: Type B
Stitches (sts) & Abbreviations half-double crochet (hdc) slip stitch (sl st) chain (ch) back loop only (BLO) round (rnd) each (ea)
Special Techniques & Notes:
The Switchback Join
This pattern uses a special join to keep the seam straight. This technique uses a system of backward and forward positioning, alternating on each row. The end of each backward row is joined by slip stitching forward by one stitch in a special way, as shown in my free tutorial which can be accessed here: https://moralefiber.blog/2019/10/02/switchback-join-tutorial/ The Switchback Join method is marked on the pattern instructions to keep track. This join must be used if you want the curves of the hat positioned correctly. If you want a knobbly chaos witch hat, feel free to skip!
Notes: All tutorial images appear after the written instructions they are depicting
Instructions, Type A:
Rnd 1 (back): hdc 8 into magic ring. Join with a sl st
Rnd 2 (forward): 1 hdc in ea st. Join with a slip st to
first hdc of the rnd. – 8 sts
Rnd 3 (back): Ch 1
(does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. (1
hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 12 sts
Rnd 4 (forward): Ch1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in
the same st, 1 hdc in the next st. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the
next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. –
16 sts
Rnd 5 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in
ea of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 20 sts
Rnd 6 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in the same st and in ea of the next 3 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea
of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts
Rnd 7 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts
Rnd 8 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts
Rnd 9 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc
in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts.
(2 hdc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts
The first 6 increasesHdc in the next 12 stsIncrease in the last 6 sts
Rnd 10 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts
Rnd 11 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts
Rnd 12 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc
in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 8 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 18 sts.
(2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts
The curve of the hat will be offset from concentrating the increases on one side
Rnd 13 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts
Rnd 14 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts
Rnd 15 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts
Rnd 16 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts
Rnd 17 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts
Rnd 18 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts
Rnd 19 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts
Rnd 20 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in
ea of the next 11 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts
Rnd 21 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts
Rnd 22 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in
ea of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts
Rnd 23 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts
Rnd 24 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in
ea of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 25 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 26 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 27 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc
in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 28 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 29 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 3 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. (1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts. 2 hdc in the next st) twice. (1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 6 times. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 104 sts
The curve of the hat is offset again by concentrating the increases on 2/3rds of the hat
Rnd 30 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. – 112 sts
Rnd 31 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 120 sts
Rnd 32 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. – 128 sts
Rnd 33 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 136 sts
Rnd 34 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. – 144 sts
Rnd 35 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 144 sts
Rnd 36: Sl st in ea st around.
Weave in all ends to finish. I used some spare chenille yarn and a larger hook to double chain a thin hat band. These hats would be really cute with extras like felted leaves or buttons – I may have to make some more!
Instructions: Type B
Rnd 1 (back): Ch 1. Hdc 8 into magic ring. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.
Rnd 2 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st. Join with a slip st to first hdc of the rnd. – 8 sts
Rnd 3 (back): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 12 sts
Rnd 4 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. – 16 sts
Rnd 5 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 20 sts
Rnd 6 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts
Rnd 7 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sls t in the BLO of the next st. – 24 sts
Rnd 8 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts
Rnd 9 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 36 sts
Rnd 10 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 8 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 18 sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts
Rnd 11 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 54 sts
Rnd 12 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts
Rnd 13 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 60 sts
Rnd 14 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts
Rnd 15 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 66 sts
Rnd 16 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts
Rnd 17 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 72 sts
Rnd 18 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts
Rnd 19 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 78 sts
Rnd 20 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts
Rnd 21 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 84 sts
Rnd 22 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 23 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 90 sts
Rnd 24 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 25 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 90 sts
Rnd 26 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 27 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 90 sts
Rnd 28 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st.
Resume pattern at Round 29 for Type A and complete the instructions from there onward.
For more Halloween themed crochet patterns and tutorials, check out these:
I’m excited to announce that I’ve put together the downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF for the Vintage Derby crochet hat pattern, which is also available for free on my blog here 🙂
You can get it now in my Ravelry Store , Ko-Fi shop, or Etsy Shop! But, there’s a sale going on now too – read on for more info!
I loved making this little hat and I’m getting inspired to make more styles of hats now the the brisker weather is visiting, if not setting in (it’ll be in the 90’s next week 😛 ).
I mean, you know I’m a total hat fiend!
Anyway, I’m having a little sale through my Ravelry pattern store to celebrate – 50% off ANY hat pattern in my store, no maximum order and no coupon code needed! This sale is running through September 30 – so go grab some sweet hat patterns now! Here’s a peek at what I’ve got:
Filigree Lace Cap – based on my Lotus Mandala design! Trickster Hood – a Tunisian crochet classic A cute ribbed beanie design with a sweet little point at the top!The Krampus – turn yourself into a yuletide demon! Doe! A deer! The Rhiannon Hooded Cowl – a hat AND a scarf!
Perhaps I shall go forge more hats now? I think yes.
I’ve always loved the bowler, a.k.a derby hat, and I think this cute but classy style looks great with anything! So I was inspired to create a crochet version, with a vintage-y feel and body stiff enough to maintain the classic bowler shape. The Vintage Derby pattern is the result, a pretty simple crochet pattern suitable for beginners but with some textural tweaks – this pattern uses waistcoat stitch crochet, a.k.a knit stitch, and yarn held double.
UPDATE!! This pattern is now also available for purchase as a portable, printable, ad-free PDF through my Etsy , Ko-fi, and Ravelry stores! Buying my paid patterns is a great way to directly support my art and ensure more content from me in the future – thank you! 🙂
I chose the waistcoat/knit stitch because I wanted the surface of the hat smoother than regular single crochet could do, and because I thought it added to that vintage look I was going for. It’s simpler than it looks, and to help I’ve created my own Waistcoat Stitch tutorial including written instructions and video to go along with this pattern!
For the yarn held double, simply crochet as you would, but with two strands of yarn instead of one – this makes the body nice and thick, which helps hold the shape of the hat.
Notes: Working the waistcoat stitch with double worsted yarn and a 5 hook was not easy at first! I had to consciously adjust my tension so that I was not single crocheting as tight as I normally would. If you are having trouble drawing up loops from the stitch below (through the post area) you will want to adjust your tension to be more loose.
Instructions:
With yarn held double, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: 5 sc into the ring. Do not join – begin to work in the round, placing marker in the first stitch of every rnd. – 5 sts
Rnd 2: 2 ws in ea of the next 5 sc sts. – 10 sts
Rnd 3: *1 ws in the next st, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 15 sts
Rnd 4: *1 ws in the next 2 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 20 sts
Rnd 5: *1 ws in the next 3 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 25 sts
Rnd 6: *1 ws in the next 4 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 30 sts
Rnd 7: *1 ws in the next 5 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 35 sts
Rnd 8: *1 ws in the next 6 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 40 sts
Rnd 9: *1 ws in the next 7 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 45 sts
Rnd 10: *1 ws in the next 8 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 50 sts
Rnd 11: *1 ws in the next 9 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 55 sts
Rnd 12: *1 ws in the next 10 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 60 sts
Rnd 13: *1 ws in the next 11 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 65 sts
Rnd 14: 1 ws in each st around. – 65 sts
Rnd 15: *1 ws in the next 12 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 70 sts
Rnd 16: Rpt Rnd 14
Rnd 17: *1 ws in the next 13 sts. 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 75 sts
Rnds 18 – 30: 1 ws in each st around – 75 sts
Rnd 31: *1 ws in the next 14 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 80 sts
Rnd 32: *1 ws in the next 15 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 85 sts
Rnd 33: *1 ws in the next 16 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 90 sts
Rnd 34: *1 ws in the next 17 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 95 sts
Rnd 35: *1 ws in the next 18 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 100 sts
Rnd 36: *1 ws in the next 19 sts, 2 ws in the next st. Repeat from * 5 times total. – 105 sts
Rnds 37 – 42: 1 ws in ea st around. – 105 sts
Slip stitch a few extra stitches at the end of the last round. Cut yarn and tie off.
Reverse the hat and reattach the yarn, held double, on the last row on the opposite side. Slip stitch in each stitch around on the inside of the brim – this helps neaten the brim and keep it sturdy. Cut yarn and tie off again when finished.
Weave in all ends using the tapestry needle.
Hat Band:
Using the 5.00 mm hook and the contrasting yarn held double, ch 75.
Rnd 1: Join chain in a ring, being careful not to twist the chain. Sc in each ch stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to the first st of the round.- 75 sts
Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does not count as first st). Ws in the first st. 1 ws in each st around. Join with a sl st. – 75 sts
Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 2. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Weave in the spare end, then thread the tapestry needle with the long end and use it to sew the band onto the hat. If you would rather not attach the band, it should stay pretty secure anyway – your call!
It was fun dreaming up a vintagey look to match the hat – but next time I will do the photoshoot BEFORE I dig out a bunch of plants from a garden bed in the hot sun, lol!
This little pattern was so much fun, I was reminded of how much I love making hats! I do have a DOOZY cooked up as an idea for the future, but I haven’t put hook to yarn on that yet – stick around and see more by following my blog or following my Facebook page!
And if you like funky hats, you should check out my FREE horned monstrosity, the Krampus Hat Pattern.
If vintage and steampunk-y is your style, maybe you’d like some Ruffled Wrister gloves to match your hat? That one’s also free!
The free pattern I’m offering today is a rework of a design I’ve been using for ages! I started making these netted caps way back when I had white girl dreads, to keep my hair out of my way while traveling. After I got rid of the locks, I kept using this style of hat as a pretty way to keep damp hair out of the cold or just when I didn’t feel like messing with the tresses at all 😛 (which is always… I always feel like not messing with it lol)
This pattern is also available as a portable, printable, ad-free PDF in my pattern shops! Find it on Ravelry, Etsy, or Ko-fi, or keep scrolling to get the totally FREE instructions right here 🙂 Direct sales of PDFs are my primary income source so THANK YOU if you can & choose to support me this way <3 The next best thing is sharing my designs that you’ve made and tagging me on socials @MoraleFiber <3 <3
This pattern is remaining free on my blog, but I am also offering it now as a paid PDF with all the same features, including two different sizes (a large size for people with more hair to trap), fun and easy written instructions, and a quick finishing time to get a really useful and pretty little accessory!
Materials:
5.00 mm hook, 6.50 mm hook – (If not making the optional button & strap decoration at the brim, 6.5 mm hook is not needed)
Yarn: Any #4 weight yarn, around 200 yards –Recommended yarn is Red Heart Unforgettable (#4, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic). Lion Brand Landscapes is also an excellent choice!
Main Gauge: 3 ½” in diameter (edge to edge measured across the center) at the end of Rnd 3
Post Stitch Gauge: 6 sts = 2” in FPDC/BPDC pattern Make sure to check your gauge and use hook size needed to obtain gauge listed.
Sizes & Finished Measurements: This hat design has a Small size and a Large size! The brim size is the same, but the length of the back of the hat is different depending on how much hair you’d like to tuck in there 😊
Small (Somewhat Slouchy): 22” brim, 8-9” depth, 8” diameter laid flat. Large (Very slouchy): 22” brim, 11-12” depth, 10.5” diameter laid flat.
Stitch and row counts are written with the changes for Large following the counts for Small as follows : small count/row [large count/row]. Sometimes instructions are specified for only one size as in “[Large ONLY]” Where no changes are specified, counts and instructions apply to all sizes.
Techniques:
Chain (ch) Double Crochet (dc) Single Crochet (sc) Half Double crochet (hdc) Post Stitches: See my tutorial here. Chain and stitch join: A technique that uses a combination of chain stitches and regular crochet stitches to form the last loop of a mesh round – more detailed instructions are available in my tutorial here.
Sizes & Finished Measurements: This hat design has a Small size and a Large size! The brim size is the same, but the length of the back of the hat is different depending on how much hair you’d like to tuck in there 😊
Small (Slouchy): 22” brim, 8-9” depth Large (Slouchier): 22” brim, 11-12″ depth
Instructions:
With 5.0 mm hook, Ch 5 (counts as initial chain, plus dc + ch 1)
Rnd 1: (Dc, ch 1) 11 times into the 5th ch from the hook. Join with a sl stitch in to the 3rd ch of beginning ch4. – 12 dc, 12 ch-1 sps
Rnd 2: (Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 4) 11 times. Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 2. Hdc into the first sc of the round. This creates a ch-4 sized loop with your hook positioned at the middle of the space. (For more instructions on how to do this type of join, check out my Chain and Stitch Join Tutorial) – 12 loops
(Pictured above: Ch-2 and final hdc form the final chain-4 sized loop of the round, leaving your hook positioned at the top of the final “loop”)
Rnd 3: Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 4) 10 times. Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 2. Hdc in the first sc of the round. – 12 loops
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in the same space, ch 4. (2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 4) 10 times. 2 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 2, hdc in the 3rd chain of beg ch-3. – 24 dc, 12 ch-4 sps
Rnd 5 [Large Size ONLY]: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in the same space 2 times, ch 4. (3 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 4) 10 times. 3 dc in the next ch-4 space, ch 1, dc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 36 dc, 12 ch-4 spaces.
Rnd 5 [6]: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5, sc in the same space, ch 5. Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5) 5 times. Sc in the next ch-4 space, ch 5, sc in the same space, ch 2. Dc in the first sc of the round. – 18 ch-5 loops
Rnd 6 [7]: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 5) 16 times. Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 2. Dc in the first sc of the round. – 18 ch-5 loops
Rnd 7-9 [Small ONLY]: Rpt Rnd 6. – 18 ch loops
Rnd 8 [Large ONLY]: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 5, sc in the same space, ch 5. Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 5) 8 times. Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 5, sc in the same space, ch 2. Dc in the first sc of the round. – 27 ch-5 loops
Rnds 9-11 [Large ONLY]: Sc in the same space, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 5) 25 times. Sc in the next ch-5 space, ch 2. Dc in the first sc of the round. – 27 ch loops
At the end of Rnd 8, the diameter should be about 8” for small and 9” for large.
Rnd 10 [12]: Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in the next chain space, ch 4) 16 [25] times. Sc in the next chain space, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 18 [27] ch-4 loops
Rnd 11-13 [13-15]: Rpt Rnd 10 [12].
Rnd 14 [16]: Sc in the same space, ch 3. (Sc in the next chain space, ch 3) 16 [25] times. Sc in the next chain space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 18 [27] ch-3 loops
Rnd 15 [17]: Rpt round 14 [16].
Rnd 16 [Smalls Only]: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in the same sp. (Dc in the next sc, 3 dc in the next ch-3 space) 17 times. Dc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next chain space. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 72 Dc
Rnd 18 [Larges Only]: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in the same sp. (3 dc in the next ch space, 2 dc in the next ch space) 13 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, the first space of the round. – 68 Dc
(See tutorial on post stitches located at the link in the Pattern Techniques for instructions on FPDC and BPDC)
Rnd 17 [19]: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc), FPDC in the same stitch. 1 FPDC in ea of the next 2 sts. (1 BPDC in ea of the next 3 sts, 1 FPDC in ea of the next 3 sts) 11 times. [Smalls ONLY: 1 BPDC in ea of the next 3 sts.] [Larges ONLY: 1 FPDC in ea of the next 2 sts.] Join with a sl st in the top of the first FPDC of the round.
Rnd 18 [20]: Rpt round 17 [19].
Rnd 19 [21]: Sc in each stitch around. Note: If the hat brim is too loose, substitute a slip stitch in place of the single crochet, or sl st as an additional row after the sc row is complete. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing if you’re adding a button.
If making button & strap accent: Position the button over the join stitches where the beginning and end of the last round meets and sew on using the yarn tail. Weave in all ends.
Strap:
With a 6.50 mm hook
Row 1: Join new yarn into the side of the post stitches 15 stitches away from the button. 2 dc in the side of the first stitch, 1 dc in the side of the next st, 1 dc in the side of the next st.
Rows 2-4: Ch 3, turn. Dc in the next 4 stitches.
Row 5: Ch 3, turn. Dc3tog over the next 3 sts. Dc in the last st.
Row 6: Turn without chaining, slip st in the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.
Use the spaces between the double crochet stitches on the strap to slip over your button and tighten the hat as necessary.
Pictured above/below is a modified Large size, with extra rounds of chain loop stitching to accommodate all of my friend’s long dreaded hair!
I hope you find this little hat project as useful and cute as I do!
