After a full year of knitting this project, I spent 6 hours in May assembling this gorgeous fawn plushiedesigned by Claire Garland! I was determined to finally take my baby to a festival with me to show off all the hard work I put in. I am not the most seasoned knitter, however I am much more practiced now that I’ve slowly conquered what was, at first, a daunting pattern for me.
I was barely familiar with knitted shaping at the start of this pattern, but the instructions were super solid and with some patience, I knitted my way through all the pieces of this darling deer using the soft and natural alpaca blends recommended by the designer. I’m just a little obsessed with my new woodland friend and can definitely recommend this pattern!
I named her “Acorn” but have been referring to her as “baby” almost exclusively. She was a hit at the festival with young & old alike – though my friends teased me about her being slightly creepy, which is fine with me, I like my dolls a little on the creepy side 🙂 <3 We all had a good laugh about it!
If you have been around this blog for a while you’ll know this is not my first deer-themed project, in fact my preference for all things woodland means I simply couldn’t pass up this sweet fawn knitting pattern even if it meant I had to stretch my brain a little and learn some new skills.
I’m very pleased to bring you all another a full length, real-time crochet tutorial video today!
This one demonstrates the making of my Morel Mushroom secret pouch, a cute fungus shaped pocket on a chain loop with an adjustable mushroom cap topper. The written pattern for this handy project is available for free on my blog here, but a crocheter recently commented on my YouTube Channel requesting a video demonstration since the method is very free-form.
While I can’t respond to every request I get for different resources for my patterns, occasionally a suggestion just really works for me or strikes inspiration and this was one of those times 🙂 I love making these mushroom pockets for my Pixie Belt designs and I had been working up to another new belt, one that would be lovely with a little morel…
So I recorded the making of my Morel Pouch and put together this video tutorial along with a bonus tour of my newest Pixie Pocket Belt, “Queen Anne’s Lace.”
Check out the video and all the relevant links below!
Morel Mushroom Video
I have made lots of variations on mushroom pouches over the years, including all these free resources on my blog:
Examples of Pixie Belts I’ve made, many with mushroom pockets
The newest belt, Queen Anne’s Lace, utilizes lots of vintage crochet scraps, scrap lace fabric and cotton weave, upcycled wool yarns, and handspun yarns. I’ve been dreaming of this particular pixie theme for years as it’s one of my favorite plants to see out on the roadside <3
That about wraps it up for now – let me know what you’d like to see in the future! I hope to do some more full-length videos where I work and talk in real time but only if they are helpful for people! 😉 If you’re looking for more Morale Fiber videos please subscribe to my YouTube Channel and consider becoming a Patreon supporter <3
Acorns are easily one of the cutest things produced by trees. Their little round nutshells topped with a perfectly fitted cap, textured in minute detail, forcibly remind me of a wee head wearing a jaunty beret style hat – and I’m certainly not the first to try to recreate such a garment inspired by this adorable thing!
So when I set out to crochet an acorn-inspired hat, I wanted lots of texture and whimsy in the final design, something that would evoke the acorn while still capturing a spirit of otherness; something the little folk of the drawings of Cicely Mary Barker might want to adorn themselves with 🙂
Of course, I immediately set my mind on the crocodile stitch for this purpose. Though this stitch is an advanced one, I love it for the sense of magic it imparts to any crochet piece and that’s why I’ve created several patterns featuring this stitch already. The crocodile stitch is a special type of post stitching, so if you’ve never encountered post stitches, I’ve written a free Post Stitch tutorial right here on my blog! I do go over the crocodile stitch as well in this post 😉
So today I’m very excited to introduce the Oak Sprite Hat, an adult-sized acorn hat / beret design which features crocodile stitch worked in rounds from center to brim, edged with simple half double crochets and topped with the cutest little acorn cap stem. I also include a few notes on how to make this hat smaller for truly wee heads!
The pattern is available both for FREE as a video crochet tutorial series and as a paid PDF file in my Etsy Shop ,Ravelry Store, and Ko-Fi Shop! Keep scrolling for the free crochet tutorial and videos or support my art directly by buying the PDF at the links above!
I worked several of these hats to finalize the crochet pattern, and while in the process I debated about whether or not to make the crocodile stitches point downward, as the scales do on an actual acorn cap, but in the end I remembered that primary rule from taking art classes in college – suggest, rather than tell. The hat’s acorn-ness isn’t really compromised by this detail, and besides – I really just liked them better pointing upward. This way the green version reminded me of a thistle blossom, which I accented by adding a bright pink poofball!
For those wondering, I don’t currently have plans to do a version of this myself with the croc stitches pointing downward, although it can be done – if you’re interested in trying it, it would work from the brim toward the center, and use decreases rather than increases. I may be so bold as to suggest investing in my Sylphie Hat Pattern, which works the croc stitches in that direction, to get familiar with that method 🙂
Anywho, Here are all the details of the pattern you need to make this must-have woodland accessory, and below you’ll find the three-part video tutorial series for working the Oak Sprite Hat. If you like this video I do have more on my YouTube channel, check it out if you like and thanks for visiting – clicks, shares, tags, tip jar donations, and pattern purchases are my livelihood and I am eternally grateful for my kind and generous audience (YOU) that makes it all possible! <3 <3
Oak Sprite Hat
Materials
5.00 mm hook – or size needed to obtain gauge
#4 weight yarn – listed below are the specific yarns used to make each hat. Recommended yarn is Caron Simply Soft. Scissors, tapestry needle
Finished Measurements: 23″ circumference for brim 33″ circumference for widest part of crown 7-8″ tall from tip to brim (not including stem)
Notes: Hat can be made a smaller overall size by skipping the final round of increases (Round 5) leaving the total number of croc stitches at 12. 12 croc stitches is ~16” circumference, or baby/child size. In this case you’ll want to work the brim at 48 stitches, without the decreases, unless decreases are necessary for the size being made. Hat can also be made a bit shorter by skipping one or two of the final rounds of non-increasing. 5 rounds are written in the pattern but 4 or even 3 can be done instead. There is a note in the written pattern where this is optional! 😊
Stitches & Abbreviations
Chain (ch) Double Crochet (dc) Slip Stitch (sl st) Half Double Crochet (hdc) Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog, a decrease) Single Crochet (sc) Magic Ring (MR): A method of starting a circle with a tight center by working the first round of stitches into a yarn loop, then pulling the yarn tail tight to adjust the loop. Back Post Half Double (bphdc): Working the stitch into the post of the stitch below, inserting the hook from the back, around the post in the front, and re-emerging to catch the yarn in the back.
Special Stitches: Picot: Picot is made by chaining 3 stitches, then slip stitching in the top of the last dc made to form a small loop. I use the two front loops of the last dc to work the slip stitch into. Picots are made in place of the normal ch-1 that occurs in the middle of a croc stitch scale to create the Picot Croc Stitch.
Picot Croc Stitch (PCS): A crocodile stitch with a picot in the middle in place of the normal ch-1.
Crocodile Stitch (croc stitch/st): This is a type of crochet stitch that creates a 3-D effect of a petal or scale. The croc stitch is a special style of post stitching.
It works by creating an underlying framework of alternating “single” (1) dc and “paired” (2) dc sets, separated by a ch-1.
Pictured above is the framework for a row of croc stitches. Once this row is created, the croc stitches are worked across the same row, overlapping.
Crocodile stitches are a type of post stitch, meaning that the hook is inserted around the main body of the stitch instead of the top two loops as normal. The stitch is then worked around the “post”, meaning that the space underneath the stitch is used and the body of the stitch holds the actual stitches. This is an advanced stitch and does take some getting used to as well as adjusting direction and hold of the fabric to achieve.
Croc stitches have 5 dc worked (from the top of the dc down to the bottom) into the post of the first dc of the paired set of dc, then a chain (or in this case picot) is made, before switching directions and working 5 more dc into the next dc of the paired set, working from the bottom of the stitch to the top. Each scale is secured by working a slip stitch into the next singly standing dc before moving on to the next scale.
Pictured above is the direction of post stitches worked to form the crocodile scale (for right-handers, this will be reversed for lefties)
Once a row/round of crocodile stitches is complete, the next row/round will build another framework for the next layer of croc stitches by working the alternating single (1) dc and paired (2) dc into the previous stitches:
Above picture illustrates how the framework for the next row of croc stitches is placed. Each paired dc is worked into the single dc which lies below, which is referred to as the space or stitch between scales. Each singly standing dc is worked into the middle space of the scale below, between the paired doubles underneath.
This pattern works Picot Croc Stitches (PCS) in the round, starting from the center of the hat. To achieve this, we will be working PCS increases, which means that the framework of the rounds will sometimes place 2 sets of paired dc in the same st between scales, each set separated by a ch-1 on either side and a singly standing dc in the middle. This sets us up to work 2 croc stitches in that space.
Pictured above is the croc stitch increase framework: (2 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the same st.
Oak Sprite Hat Video Tutorial Part 1
Video Tutorial Part 2
Video Tutorial Part 3
I hope you found this pattern to be helpful and interesting, and are inspired to create lots of clever pixie adornments for your friends and family! If you’ve caught the crocodile stitch bug like I have, here are some other patterns I offer that feature this stitch:
I’ve always had a natural love of animals and being raised in the country meant I had a lot of exposure to all sorts of them – in particular I loved the white-tailed deer that would sometimes appear on the edges of the yard, majestic and graceful but powerful as well. Anyone raised around their natural habitat knows that deer, even peaceful-seeming and retiring does, are not to be trifled with.
So, certainly not for the first time on this blog, today’s crochet project is deer themed! I already have a number of horn and antler patterns available and thought it would be fun to put together a free video tutorial for the Yearling Headband that shows how to crochet this super elastic, comfortable, useful and above all ADORBS self-care accessory using some of my favorite crochet tricks!
Keep scrolling for the FREE crochet pattern & video!
The antlers in this headband are a two-tine version of the “Forest Guide” rack, made with smaller yarn and hook than the original – you can use the recommended materials in this post, the video, or choose your own, just make sure your gauge is tight so there isn’t a lot of space between stitches (aka amigurumi style).
The headband with the pink petals features what I call my “Twig Horns” which are a cute, more cartoon-y set of nubby antlers featured in my Mori Beret. They are quicker and not as cumbersome if you want a more low-key headband – directions for those appear in written form under the original antler video below!
Introduction to Yearling Headband
Live-action introduction to this project : sorry for my obvious awkwardness, I’m not used to doing face videos yet 😉
Materials
Yarn: Various, good project for scrap yarns 50-100 yards each- I used a thick #6 weight yarn for the headband #2 yarn for the beige antlers #3 yarn for the brown antlers #5 yarn for the leaves
5.50 mm hook (headband) 3.25 hook for beige antlers 3.50 mm hook for brown antlers 5.00 mm hook for leaves
20″ circular elastic – I bought mine in a pack from the hair accessories section of the pharmacy, you could also use regular craft elastic sewn in a circle or knotted. 2 12″ craft pipe cleaners (for large horns) Small amount of polyester fiberfill or cotton batting (to stuff antlers) Tapestry needle, yarn needle, scissors
Headband Base
To create the base for the headband, I used my 5.50 mm hook and chunky yarn to crochet around the elastic band, working in a full circle one direction then turning and working in between the stitches in the opposite direction:
Yearling Antlers
As I mentioned earlier, the antlers on the brown headband are a version of the Forest Guide antlers that only use the first 2 tines, and work in #2 yarn and a 3.25 hook. The first two videos cover these antlers, with the same written instructions appearing below the videos. For the smaller antlers, keep scrolling for the written pattern!
The first video demonstrates the first tine, which is the biggest and longest. To make any other length of tine, follow the instructions of the First Tine for only the rounds indicated in the video, or below in the written version of this antler pattern! The second video covers how to construct the antlers.
Written instructions: Main Tine (Make 2:
Worked continuously in the round, place marker in the first stitch of every round to keep track.
With 3.75 hook and #4 accent color beige, make magic ring. Rnd 1: 3 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 3 sts Rnd 2: 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st. – 4 sts Rnd 3: 1 sc in ea st. – 4 sts Rnd 4: Rpt rnd 3 Rnd 5: 1 sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in the next st. – 5 sts Rnd 6: 1 sc in ea st. – 5 sts Rnd 7: Rpt rnd 6 Rnd 8: 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. – 6 sts Rnd 9: 1 sc in ea st. – 6 sts Rnds 10-11: Rpt Rnd 9. Rnd 12: *2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. Rpt from * once more. – 8 sts. Rnd 13: 1 sc in ea st. – 8 sts Rnds 14-15: Rpt Rnd 13 Rnd 16: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts. – 9 sts Rnd 17: 1 sc in ea st. – 9 sts Rnds 18 – 19: Rpt Rnd 17 Rnd 20: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. – 10 sts Rnd 21: 1 sc in ea st. – 10 sts Rnds 22 – 30: Rpt Rnd 21 Rnd 31: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. – 12 sts Rnd 32: 1 sc in ea st. – 12 sts. Slip stitch in the next few stitches to finish. Cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.
2nd Tine (Make 2):
Work Rounds 1 – 14 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 14, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.
3rd Tine (Make 2): Work Rounds 1 – 12 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 12, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.
4th Tine (Make 2):
Work Rounds 1 – 10 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 10, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Antler Construction:
Follow the video for a tutorial on stuffing and constructing the antlers – this video shows the full antler with all tines, but you can do as many as you wish and position them as you like.
With polyester fiberfill and stick, stuff a tiny bit of filling in the tip of the Main Tine. Take one 12” 6mm pipe cleaner and fold in half, twisting loose ends together to form a flat loop. Insert twisted end into the Main tine, leaving a small bit of loop sticking out of the opening. Gently fill the bottom part of the Main Tine around the wire armature with poly fill. Roll and massage the piece to even out the filling – do not overstuff! It should still be flexible and posable on the armature.
Gently stuff the 2nd tine with a small amount of fiberfill. With tapestry needle, thread long yarn tail of the 2nd Tine. Position about halfway up the Main Tine and sew around the base of the 2nd tine.
You can also follow the written pattern for the Twig Horns below, if you want low-key fawn vibes!
Twig Antlers:
Using 3.50 hook and #3 or #4 weight accent yarn:
Make 2 of each tine. Worked continuously in the round. Use a stitch marker to keep track of rounds.
Main Tine:
Rnd 1: Make Magic Ring. 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly. Rnd 2: 1 sc in ea sc around. – 6 sts Rnd 3: *1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc. Rpt from * around. – 9 sts Rnds 4-13: 1 sc in ea st around. – 9 sts Rnd 14: *1 sc in ea of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc. Rpt from * around. – 12 sts
Sl st in the next 2-3 sts, cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
2nd Tine
Rnd 1: Make Magic Ring. 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly. Rnd 2: 1 sc in ea sc around. – 6 sts Rnd 3: *1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc. Rpt from * around. – 9 sts Rnds 4-8: 1 sc in ea st around. – 9 sts
Sl st in the next 2-3 sts. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Assembly:
Thread the long tail of the 2nd tine onto a tapestry needle and sew around the base onto the main tine. Weave in the ends. Rpt for other antler.
Leaf Motif
I originally designed this little leaf/petal pattern years ago, looking for a quick and easy leaf that could be worked into long chains. It’s now in several of my designs and a favorite go-to when adding decoration and texture to a piece. Follow this video demo for how to work this leaf in clusters of three or four. Written instructions below the video!
Leaf Motif:
For a more detailed photo breakdown, see the original blog post here. With 5.00 mm hook and #5 bulky or #4 worsted yarn:
* Ch 5 – last 2 ch counts as the beg ch-2 in the leaf motif. In the 3rd ch from the hook, work 4 dc, ch-2 length picot in the last dc made, 3 hdc in the same stitch. Rotate, working in the same st on the other side of the beg chain, 2 hdc. Join motif in the round with a sl st in the 2nd ch of beg ch-2. Sl st in the 2nd ch st from the motif.* Rpt * to * 4 times total. Sl st in the bottom of the first motif to join the 4 leaves in a circle. Cut yarn and tie off – 4 leaves
Final Assembly
Try your headband on and mark all the spots where you want your antlers, leaves, or other decorations to go…
With tapestry needle, use the long yarn tails to stitch the elements onto the headband. Thread yarn through the wire loops underneath the yearling antlers if you’ve got them, and pull the loops through the stitching so they are fully embedded in the yarn headband. Stitch tightly around the yarn base of the antler. Repeat for other antler.
Using yarn or tapestry needle, sew the leaf rings into the headband (I like them on the sides under the antlers) and pin down the tips of the leaves if you want them to lie flat.
Weave in all remaining ends – voila! A fawn is born!
Quarantine has made me feral and I am unlikely to return.
I could go on and on with other ideas for this kind of design, from woodland creature ear variations to radical colorful freeform pieces, and I hope some of those neat variations get made and I get to see them! As always I love seeing what you make from my designs – tag @moralefiber on Instagram for your projects!
I debated with myself for a long time about what to call this fantastical creature hat. In the end, I chose “Forest Guide” because “Three Eyed Antlered Inter-dimensional Fox Spirit Guide” seemed too long. Whatever you call it, this new design is available for FREE here in this blog post or as a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF in my Etsy Shop, Ko-Fi Shop, or Ravelry Store. Read on for more details!
Let’s rewind a minute to talk about the inspiration for this design- this hat was conceived in several different parts, the first part being that I see faces in random blobs (a common human tendency called “pareidolia” and side effect of having any kind of imagination) and I saw a three-eyed antlered fox one day while staring sleepily at the tapestry on my bedroom wall.
“Say” I said to myself, “that would make a weird hat.” You see, I had recently completed a custom commissioned piece for a complex hat with tons of details based on my Krampus Hat pattern. It was an experience that gave me lots of new ideas.
The free pattern for the Krampus Hat itself has produced so many amazing, creative interpretations that I wanted to do another pattern that was similarly Out There. And I wanted to keep exploring the 3-D, sculptural crochet techniques that I have already been dabbling in for a while (like with the Deer Hat and the Sylphie Hat).
So I stared at my tapestry a bit more, made some sketches, and worked out a vague plan. I was aiming to create something mystical, and complex, and cute but creepy in a Ghibli-esque sort of way. An elusive forest spirit, a shapechanger, a keeper of the paths.
One of the best parts about designing this was all the little shapes that make up the details of the hat – there are 23 individual amigurumi components to this hat. That’s a lot! But with so many options, the piece can be customized to your heart’s content OR the details can be used individually for different projects (Make just the fox hat, or those antlers might make an awesome headpiece on their own, or the cute crescent moon could adorn something…)
I hope you enjoy this FREE crochet pattern for the Forest Guide hat, and have as much fun creating it as I did. This pattern is available with all the same features here as a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store!
100% of the proceeds from the first five days of PDF sales for this pattern was donated to WIRES, an Australian wildlife rescue nonprofit, to help aid the animals fleeing burned habitat <3 Thank you everyone who participated in the fundraiser!
This elaborate crochet fantasy hat imagines the spirit of the forest as an elusive shapechanger, guide, and keeper of the paths. In the form of a three-eyed, antlered fox, it appears to travelers trying to find their way. Will it offer help or guide you deeper into wilderness?
A customizable soft-sculpture costume head piece, this is one crochet project that you will not be able to keep hidden in the trees! The written pattern for the main hat includes detailed instructions for all 23 amigurumi components, plus photo AND video tutorials for making all the pieces and assembling.
Written in U.S terminology
Materials & Notes
4.50 mm hook 3.75 mm hook
2 skeins Lion Brand Heartland Yosemite (#4 Worsted Weight, 251 yds / 5 oz, 100% acrylic) (Main Color – Red) 1 skein Lion Brand Heartland Great Sand Dunes (Accent Color – Beige) 1 skein Lion Brand Heartland Bryce Canyon (Accent Color – Gold) >100 yds #4 weight accent color orange >100 yds #4 weight accent color black >50 yds #4 weight accent color white
Scissors Tapestry Needle Polyester Fiberfill & stuffing stick 12” chenille craft pipe cleaners, 6 mm (2) Measuring tape Styrofoam Head form Locking stitch markers
Gauge:
4 sts & 8 rows = 1”, or 2” in diameter after Rnd 7 in main pattern
Finished Measurements: Main Hat: 24” circumference around the inside, 13-14” from bottom of earflap to crown
Stitches and Abbreviations:
magic ring (MR) single crochet (sc) slip stitch (sl st) front loop only (FLO) chain stitch (ch) back loop only (BLO) single crochet decrease (sc dec) half-double crochet (hdc) double crochet (dc) treble crochet (tr) 5-wrap bullion (5-bull)- Wrap yarn around hook 5 times. Insert hook into next st, draw up a loop. Draw the same loop through each of the 5 wraps on the hook. YO and draw through last loop on the hook. (Double crochet may be substituted for this stitch) 6-wrap bullion (6-bull) – Wrap yarn around hook 6 times. Insert hook into next st. draw up a loop. Draw the same loop through each of the 6 wraps on the hook. YO and draw through last loop on the hook. (Treble crochet may be substituted for this stitch) back post double crochet (BPDC) – double crochet worked by inserting the hook around the post of the stitch below, entering and emerging from the back (wrong side) of the work . For more help with post stitches, see my tutorial here: Post Stitch Ribbing tutorial back post half double crochet (BPHDC) – half double crochet worked by inserting the hook around the post of the stitch below, entering and emerging from the back (wrong side) of the work. front post double crochet (FPDC) – double crochet worked by inserting the hook around the post of the stitch below, entering and emerging from the front (right side) of the work. front post half-double crochet (FPHDC) – half double crochet worked by inserting the hook around the post of the stitch below, entering and emerging from the front (right side) of the work. right side (RS) wrong side (WS) hook (hk) stitch/es (st/sts)
Notes:
The circular pattern alternates rounds worked in the front and back loops of the previous round. I highly recommend using a locking marker on the back loop of the first stitch of each sc round (odd numbered rounds) so you know for sure where to start and finish – with all of those loops it can get confusing and the markers always save the day.
Working a large number of chain loops will make the hat base curl and may be hard to work with – this is normal. For help on how to handle working the main hat, please see my demo video on my Youtube channel linked below.
Video Tutorials: Video tutorials, including demos and full-length patterns for this design, can be found on my Youtube Channel here. They’re also embedded in the instructions on the blog below!
Main Hat Instructions
To Begin, make magic ring with Main Color and a 4.50 mm hook.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring, join round with a sl st in the front loop of the first stitch. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in the FLO of Rnd 1 (Ch 9, *sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 5 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 6 ch loops
Rnd 3: 2 sc into each of the back loops only (BLO) of the sc stitches from Rnd 1. Join with a sl st in the FLO. – 12 sts
Rnd 4: Working in the FLO of Rnd 3, (Ch 9. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 11 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join – 12 ch loops
Rnd 5: In BLO of Rnd 3, (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in the next st. ) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 18 sts
Rnd 6: Working in the FLO of Rnd 5, (Ch 9. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 17 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 18 ch loops
Rnd 7: In BLO of Rnd 5, (1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round – 24 sts
Rnd 8: Working in the FLO of Rnd 7, (Ch 9. *sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 23 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 24 ch loops
Rnd 9: In BLO of Rnd 7, (1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 30 sts
Rnd 10: Working in FLO of Rnd 9, (Ch 9. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 29 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 30 ch loops
Rnd 11: In BLO of Rnd 9, (1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 36 sts
Rnd 12: Working in FLO of Rnd 11, sc in the same stitch as sl st join. (Ch 9. *Sc in the next stitch.) Rpt 35 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 36 ch loops
Rnd 13: In BLO of Rnd 11, (1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 42 sts
Rnd 14: Working in FLO of Rnd 13, (Ch 9. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 41 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 42 ch loops
Rnd 15: In BLO of Rnd 13, (1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 48 sts
Rnd 16: Working in FLO of Rnd 15, (Ch 10. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 47 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 48 ch loops
Rnd 17: In BLO of Rnd 15, (1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 54 sts
Rnd 18: Working in FLO of Rnd 17, (Ch 10. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 53 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 54 ch loops
Rnd 19: In BLO of Rnd 17, 1 sc in each sc around. Join with a sl st in the FL of first st in the rnd. – 54 sts
Rnd 20: Working in FLO of Rnd 19, (Ch 11. *Sl st in the next st.) Rpt 53 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 54 ch lps
Rnd 21: In BLO of Rnd 19, (1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 60 sts
Rnd 22: Working in FLO of Rnd 21, (Ch 11. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 59 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 60 ch loops
Rnd 23: In BLO of Rnd 21, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 60 sts
Rnd 24: Working in FLO of Rnd 23, (Ch 11. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 59 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 60 ch loops
Rnd 25: Working in BLO of Rnd 23, (1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FL of the first st of the rnd. – 66 sts
Rnd 26: Working in the FLO of Rnd 25, (Ch 11. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 65 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 66 ch loops
Rnd 27: In BL of previous rnd, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 66 sts
Rnd 28: Working in FLO of previous rnd, (Ch 12. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 65 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 66 ch loops
Rnds 29-42: Rpt Rnds 27-28 7 more times.
Rnd 43: In BL of previous rnd, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 66 sts
Rnd 44: Working in FLO of previous rnd, (Ch 13. *Sl st in the next st.) Rpt 65 more times, ending alst rpt at *. Do not join.
Rnds 45 – 52: Rpt Rnds 43-44 4 more times. Sl st in the next st. Do not tie off – leave yarn attached to begin working earflaps.
Earflaps (Make 2)
Get four locking stitch markers. Place one in the BL of the first stitch of the previous round. Place second marker 9 stitches from the first (counting in same direction as you would work the round). Including stitches with markers, this makes a 10-stitch section. Starting with the first stitch after the 2nd marker, count 19 stitches in the same direction you would work the round. Place the third marker in the back loop of the 19 stitch. Place 4th marker 9 stitches from the third.
This leaves you with two marked off sections of 10 stitches (where you will work the earflaps) with an 18-stitch gap on one side (the back of the hat) and a 28-stitch gap on the other side (the front of the hat). You can try on the hat now to see where those sections fall and adjust if necessary – as long as you have two sections of 10 stitches you can place them where you like.
Earflaps are worked in rows, turning after each row. Every row is worked in the back loop only.
Row 1: RS facing, join with a sc to the marked st at the beginning of one marked off 10-st section. 1 sc into the BLO of ea of next 9 sts. Ch 13, turn.
Row 2: Working in the BLO, sl st in next st. (Ch 13, * sl st in the next st) 9 more times, ending last rpt at *. Turn – 10 ch loops
Row 3: In the BLO, sc in ea of the next 10 sts. Ch 13, turn.
Row 4: Rpt Row 2.
Row 5: Rpt Row 3.
Row 6: Rpt Row 2.
Row 7: To begin this row, work a sc decrease over the BL of the first 2 stitches. Sc in ea of the next 6 sts. Work a sc decrease over the next 2 stitches. Ch 13, turn. – 8 sts.
Row 8: Sl st in the next st. (Ch 13, * sl st in the next st) 7 times, ending last rpt at *. Ch 13, turn. – 8 ch loops.
Row 9: Sc in ea of the next 8 sts. Ch 13, turn. – 8 sts
Row 10: Rpt Row 8.
Row 11: To begin this row, work a sc decrease over the BL of the first 2 sts. Sc in ea of the next 4 sts. Work a sc decrease over the next 2 sts. Ch 13, turn. – 6 sts
Row 12: Sl st in the next st. (Ch 13, *sl st in the next st) 5 times, ending last rpt at *. Turn. – 6 ch loops
Row 13: Work a sc decrease over the next 2 sts. Sc in ea of next 2 sts. 1 sc dec over the next 2 sts. Ch 13, turn. – 4 sts
Row 14: Sl st in the next st. (Ch 13, *sl st in the same st) 3 times, ending last rpt at *. Turn. – 4 ch loops
Row 15: (Work a sc dec over the next 2 sts) twice. If this is your first earflap, cut yarn and tie off. If this is your second earflap, do not cut or tie off.
Brim:
The brim works three rows of sc in each stitch around the edge of the hat, including the earflaps. Continue using yarn still attached from the 2nd earflap.
Row 1: Work 1 sc in the side of ea row down the earflap toward the main part of the hat. Continue to work 1 sc in the back loops of the stitches and 1 sc in between ea loop on the sides of the earflaps all the way around the hat.
Row 2: Sc in ea sc.
Row 3: Sc in ea sc.
Details Instructions
Fox Ears (Make 2):
Worked in the round, placing marker in the first stitch of every round to keep track.
With 4.50 hook and #4 black yarn, make magic ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 6 sts
Rnd 2: *1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 9 sts
Rnd 3: *1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 12 sts
Rnd 4: *1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 15 sts
Rnd 5: *1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 18 sts
Rnd 6: *1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 21 sts
Rnd 7: *1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 24 sts
Rnd 8: *1 sc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 27 sts
Rnd 9: *1 sc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 30 sts
Rnd 10: *1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 33 sts
Rnd 11: *1 sc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 36 sts
Rnd 12: *1 sc in ea of the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 39 sts
Rnd 13: *1 sc in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. -42 sts
Rnd 14: *1 sc in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 45 sts
Rnds 15 – 19: 1 sc in ea st around. – 45 sts.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Ear Trim:
The ear is flattened to later fit on the hat – flatten the ear and fold it inward to get an idea. Video demo available below.
Row 1: To trim the ear, use the 4.50 mm hook to attach the fur accent yarn a few stitches inward from the edge, starting at the bottom. Slip stitch on the surface of the piece, staying a few stitches inward from the edge, toward the tip of the ear.
Once a few stitches from the top, turn and slip stitch back down the other side in the same manner.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn and slip stitch in ea of the slip stitches just made in the first Row.
Row 3 (Optional): I did a third line of slip stitching inward from the first, using a different fur yarn, to add more texture. Work across the bottom of the ear for the 3rd row.
TIP: Use a pet brush or wig brush to tease out the hair on the fur yarn to make the texture softer!
Antlers:
Main Tine (Make 2):
Worked continuously in the round, place marker in the first stitch of every round to keep track. Video tutorial available below.
With 3.75 hook and #4 accent color beige, make magic ring.
Rnd 1: 3 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 3 sts
Rnd 2: 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st. – 4 sts
Rnd 3: 1 sc in ea st. – 4 sts
Rnd 4: Rpt rnd 3
Rnd 5: 1 sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in the next st. – 5 sts
Rnd 6: 1 sc in ea st. – 5 sts
Rnd 7: Rpt rnd 6
Rnd 8: 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. – 6 sts
Rnd 9: 1 sc in ea st. – 6 sts
Rnds 10-11: Rpt Rnd 9.
Rnd 12: *2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. Rpt from * once more. – 8 sts.
Rnd 13: 1 sc in ea st. – 8 sts
Rnds 14-15: Rpt Rnd 13
Rnd 16: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts. – 9 sts
Rnd 17: 1 sc in ea st. – 9 sts
Rnds 18 – 19: Rpt Rnd 17
Rnd 20: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. – 10 sts
Rnd 21: 1 sc in ea st. – 10 sts
Rnds 22 – 30: Rpt Rnd 21
Rnd 31: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. – 12 sts
Rnd 32: 1 sc in ea st. – 12 sts.
Slip stitch in the next few stitches to finish. Cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.
2nd Tine (Make 2):
Work Rounds 1 – 14 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 14, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.
3rd Tine (Make 2):
Work Rounds 1 – 12 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 12, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.
4th Tine (Make 2):
Work Rounds 1 – 10 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 10, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Antler Video Tutorial:
Antler Construction:
Video demo available below.
With polyester fiberfill and stick, stuff a tiny bit of filling in the tip of the Main Tine. Take one 12” 6mm pipe cleaner and fold in half, twisting loose ends together to form a flat loop. Insert twisted end into the Main tine, leaving a small bit of loop sticking out of the opening. Gently fill the bottom part of the Main Tine around the wire armature with poly fill. Roll and massage the piece to even out the filling – do not overstuff! It should still be flexible and posable on the armature.
Gently stuff the 2nd tine with a small amount of fiberfill. With tapestry needle, thread long yarn tail of the 2nd Tine. Position about halfway up the Main Tine and sew around the base of the 2nd tine.
Gently stuff the 3rd tine with a small amount of fiberfill. With tapestry needle, thread long yarn tail of the 3rd tine and position at the base of the Main Tine. Sew the tine so that the base is partially attached. Leave about half of the base free to attach to the hat along with the base of the Main Tine.
Gently stuff the 4th tine with a tiny amount of fiberfill. Leave this tine free, it is attached to the Hat separately later.
Antler Construction Demo Video
Snout:
Snout is constructed by working four triangular shapes back and forth separately onto the same circle, adding seams at the end. Ch 1 at beginning of rnd does not count as first sc.
With Beige and 3.75 hook, make magic ring.
1st quarter:
Rnd 1: 8 sc into the ring. Join with a slip stitch in the first sc of the round.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 2 sc in the next st. – 4 sts
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 6 sts
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 8 sts
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 10 sts
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 12 sts
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 10 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 14 sts
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 16 sts
Row 9: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 14 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 18 sts
Row 10: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 16 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 20 sts
Row 11: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 18 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 22 sts
Row 12: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 20 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 24 sts
Rows 13 -14: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 24 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
2nd & 3rd Quarter:
With Gold, join yarn in either set of two stitches adjacent to the 1st quarter.
Row 1: Ch 1, 2 sc in the next st. 2 sc in the next st. – 4 sts
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 8 sts.
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 8 sts
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 10 sts
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 10 sts
Rows 9 – 14: Rpt Row 8. – 10 sts
Cut yarn and tie off. Rpt for 3rd quarter on the other side of 1st.
4th Quarter (Top of snout)
With Main color, join yarn in first of remaining 2 sc.
Row 1: Ch 1, 2 sc in the same st, 2 sc in the next st. – 4 sc
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in ea st. – 4 sc
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in the next 2 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 6 sts
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 6 sts
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 8 sts.
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 8 sts
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 10 sts
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 10 sts
Row 9: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 12 sts
Row 10: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 12 sts
Rows 11-14: Rpt Row 10
Do not tie off.
Snout Construction:
Video demo available.
Match the edge of the sides (2nd and 3rd quarter) to the top of the snout (4th quarter) and work a single crochet over the end stitch of both layers at once. Work 1 sc per row end across the edge to create a seam. Turn, work 2 slip stitches across the tip, then continue seam down the other side. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
With accent color beige, repeat the process on the other side connecting the bottom (1st quarter) to the sides (2nd and 3rd quarter). Work 1 sc stitch per row end across the edge to create a seam. Turn, work 2 slip stitches across the tip, then continue seam down the other side. Cut yarn and tie off.
Nose:
With 3.75 hook and accent color Black, chain 10.
Row 1: 4 hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook. 1 hdc in ea of the next 3 ch sts. 4 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 3 sts. 4 hdc in the next st. Slip stitch in the opposite side of the chain stitch 5 stitches away.
Row 2: Sc in the back loop only (BLO) of the first st of the previous round. Working in the BLO, sc in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc of the round.
Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Eyes (Make 3):
(Pictured above clockwise from left – Eye without finishing, 3rd eye with finishing, Left Eye with finishing)
The Eyes feature the bullion stitch, an advanced crochet stitch described in the stitches section. For help working this stitch, see my video tutorials, linked in the Notes section. If you do not want to tackle bullion, regular crochet stitches can be substituted. Substitute double crochet for the 5-bullion stitch and treble crochet for the 6-bullion stitch.
With 3.75 hook and accent color black, make magic ring.
Rnd 1: 2 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc into the ring. Sl st in first sc to join. Pull ring closed tightly. Cut yarn and tie off.
With accent color gold, join yarn in last st worked. Ch 3 to start.
Rnd 2: Work 2 5-bull sts in the first 4 sts. (2 6-bull, ch 1, 2 6-bull) in the next st. Work 2 5-bull sts in the next 5 sts. (2 6-bull, ch 1, 2 6-bull) in the next st. Work 2 5-bull sts in the next st. Sl st to join. Cut yarn and tie off.
Brow – Left eye:
With Wrong Side facing, attach black yarn three sts away from the 6-bull increase of either end of the eye.
Row 1: Sc in the same st. Sc in the next 2 sts. In the next ch space, work 3 hdc. 1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 dc in ea of the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.
Row 2: Turn piece. With Right Side facing, attach beige yarn 4 stitches away from the end of the brow – attach new yarn around post of 4th from last stitch. Ch 3. 1 Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC) in the same st. 1 BPDC in ea of the next 8 sts. 1 Back Post Half Double Crochet (BPHDC) in ea of the next 4 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.
Brow – Right eye:
With Right side Facing, attach black yarn three sts away from the 6-bull increase of either end of the eye.
Row 1: Sc in the same st. Sc in the next 2 sts. In the next ch space work 3 hdc. 1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 dc in ea of the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.
Row 2: Turn piece. With Wrong Side facing, attach beige yarn 4 sts away from the end of the brow – attach new yarn around post of the 4th from last st. Ch 3. 1 Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC) in the same st. 1 FPDC in ea of the next 8 sts. 1 Fack Post Half Double Crochet (FPHDC) in ea of the next 4 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.
3rd Eye:
With Main Color, Join yarn in any stitch. 1 sc in each stitch around. In the chain space at the first point, work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Continue to single crochet to next point. Work 3 sc in the chain space. Continue to sc around, join with a sl st to first sc of the round.
Crescent Moon:
With Accent color White and 3.75 hook, ch 9.
In the 2nd ch from the hook, 2 sc. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 ch sts. 3 dc in the next ch st. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 ch sts. 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the next st. Cut yarn and tie off.
Back Markings:
With 3.75 hk and Gold, Ch 40
2 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook. 2 dc in ea of the next 9 ch sts. 1 dc in ea of the next 9 sts. 3 dc in the next st. 2 dc in the next st. 1 dc in ea of the next 9 sts. 2 dc in ea of the next 10 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.
With same hook and yarn, make magic ring.
Ch 3. 12 dc into the ring – tighten. Join with a sl st in first dc of the round. Repeat for 2nd circle.
Fang:
With 3.75 mm hook and accent color white, follow Rounds 1-4 of the Main Tine. Cut yarn and tie off.
Braids:
Cut 48 30” long strands. Separate into 2 groups of 24, double up to form a loop and loop through the end of each earflap on any available loop, or directly into the crochet stitching if you prefer. Braid and tie off.
Assembly:
It’s okay and even preferable if you trap a lot of loops under the sewing for your detail pieces. Work slowly and conscientiously to get the loops and pieces arranged nicely. The demo video for assembly is condensed at 25 times faster the speed I did it – it took me over 3 hours to assemble this! Take your time, but don’t be focused on getting it absolutely perfect because it won’t be.Your hat will have a character of it’s own!
Using locking stitch markers, head form and tape measure, attach the components to the main hat. Start by centering the snout (nose already sewn on) so that the beige edge matches up against the brim on the center above the face. Stitch all components directly over the chain loops, making sure the securing thread attaches all the way down to the base of the hat, not just to the loops. Next tackle the 3rd eye, then tack on the other two eyes (don’t recommend sewing them on fully yet).
After the eyes are positioned and partially attached, arrange the ears and tack them on using temporary securing methods such as locking stitch markers, safety pins, or tied yarn.
Next, position your main antlers – insert the pipe cleaner loop at the base of the antler all the way through the stitches on the base of the main hat so that you can grab the wire loop on the underside. Using the main color, thread yarn through this loop and secure the pipe cleaner to the surrounding stitches, then weave yarn over this base to cover it.
If all components look more or less aligned (I recommend looking from many angles and utilizing your tape measure A LOT) you can finish securing the eyes, ears, and antlers using the attached yarn tails. Use your yarn tension and stitches to make little adjustments to placement as you go if needed.
Then position the 4th tines, stuffed lightly if desired, on either side of the 3rd eye. The Crescent is placed below the 3rd eye and the fangs underneath the snout on the inside of the bottom seam. The back designs go on last.
With accent color yarns and a tapestry needle, make a few overlapping straight stitches down the center of the eye to give it shine.
Once all components are attached, weave in any remaining ends.
Assembly Video
The following video records my assembly process for this piece – it takes a while! The video is sped up at 25 times the normal rate, so while it isn’t great at being a tutorial, hopefully it gives an overall idea of how to go about putting it all together. Plus, it was fun for me to watch. BTW I’m wearing the Gnome Toboggan hat in this video 😉
Fringe Fur:
With Beige, cut a large bundle of 6” strands. Carve out a rounded cheek silhouette in the chain loops on the side of the hat, making a furrow to mark where you will fringe. Taking 2 strands at a time, loop the fringe into the chain loops and tighten, working along the loops on the furrow marked out. Repeat on the other side. – 25 (ish) fringe tassels each side should do it.
Repeat this process with accent color Orange, positioning over the top of the beige – 15-20 fringe tassels
Repeat with Main color, underneath the beige, centered on the earflap – 15 fringe tassels.
Give the fox a haircut – trim the “fur” until it is the length you want. Look over your new masterpiece and make any little adjustments, squishing the chain loops into their final places around the face features, etc. Spray block with water if desired.
This project was a really fun journey into shapes and textures that I hope others will customize and invent upon <3
There are several elements in the costume for this piece I’d like to mention specifically: the skirt is sewn by me from upcycled fabric cut from unusable old clothes. The fingerless gloves are a modified version of my Rambler’s Mitts.
The fringed leather bag is also handmade by me, constructed from upcycled suede scraps crocheted together with cotton thread, with a hand sewn stone setting in the front.
The gorgeously magical moth clip is from the Etsy Shop The Forest Fae <3
I’ve watched too many internet videos of foxes jumping to not do this.
Long ago, in a galaxy far far away, I used to write blog posts of themed crochet projects. These Pattern Galleries were mostly links to actual patterns, but occasionally contained inspiration-only images.
It was there that I first idea’d a crocheted stump ottoman. In the Pouf Collection, which I so aptly described as ” Poufs, ottomans, small stools, floor cushions (n.) – furniture that allows me to lay around on the ground like a lazy slob while giving off the appearance of being classy. “ I featured this image of a now-unavailable product from Anthropologie.
Welcome to the world of slow art! Because today I have an actual, finished product inspired by that post that feels like forever ago (it wasn’t, but you know…)
I did put a stump ottoman “firmly on my to-do list” in fact, but I didn’t actually start the project until 2017, when I purchased a slightly beat-up vintage ottoman and wanted to cover the nasty vinyl with something cooler. A removable, freeform cover in the shape of a stump would be just perfect.
I started by gathering all my little bits of white and beige scrap yarn and crocheting a flat, ringed circle. Spike stitches and varying my stitch height were strategies I used to give it a naturally odd appearence – totally symmetrical was not the goal.
This of course was the top of my stump, where the inner rings of the tree are showing. Once I had this circle big enough to cover the top of the ottoman, I folded it up and put it aside to start on the bark, which would go around the outside of the ottoman.
I chose to alternate a light brown with a dark brown, both #3 or #4 weight throughout the piece, and all worked as post stitches of various heights. I used a spike stitch to create a segmented texture in the bark.
I started the bark with a 4.00 mm hook. Working post stitches in worsted yarn with a 4.00 hook is pretty tough and slow going though, really – if you’re not used to it. I quickly grew bored with the bark and put the project aside, making some effort at progress but mostly be distracted by other things (like the budding Elf Coat project).
Well, after a time I reshuffled my life and ended up losing the ottoman that The Stump was to cover. But I kept my project, determining I could find another way to fill it. If I could convince myself to finish that awefully boring bark part.
I did hack away at it occasionally until about two months ago, when I decided to finish this thing for real. I switched hooks, sizing up to a 4.5 mm to speed the process along, and made the project a priority. I needed almost 70″ of bark in length to match the circumference of the flat top, and with some gritting of the teeth, I got it.
In addition to the freaky freeform eyeball knot I worked into the texture 😉
I took a few videos of me working along the way, for posterity. Here’s a demo video of the bark, showing how I worked the post stitches, dual strands, and spike stitches to create the texture.
Time to construct! Using locking stitch markers, I measured roughly how the bark would attach and then stitched it together.
I added a few more freeform rounds around the top to give it a nice gnarly edge, then turned my attention to finishing the main part of the cover.
The eyeball knot got stuffed full of polyester filling and then closed with rounds of stitches worked directly onto the back on the inside.
At this point I was ready to tackle the idea of how to fill this thing. Rather than hunt for a new ottoman over which this could fit, I needed a semi-firm filling that would give the furniture piece some weight and resistance.
A bean bag seemed like the logical conclusion, and I schemed up a bottom portion of the Stump that could be closed with a drawstring and tied shut, so that I could insert or remove a bag full of beans.
Then, beans happened! After I sewed the inner bag out of sheet scraps, I carefully poured a huge bag of styrofoam beans from the craft store in and stuffed that sucker.
Now that the filling part was worked out, I could turn my attention to the most fun part: adding all the growths.
Using a selection of earthy toned scrap yarns, I applied myself to creating three types of moss, two batches of lichens, extra bark, shelf fungus, and toadstools either worked directly onto the piece or sewn on after.
Once the last lichen was nestled in, I took a deep breath and a minute to pat myself on the back. Finally done!
And because it grew with me over time, my connection to this piece feels pretty personal. I dyed that lichen yarn, I spun that moss, I rescued those scraps. I cussed at that bark, delighted over those toadstools, cried on those tree rings. At first we were strangers, but now The Stump and I are good friends (I fear I will end up referring to it as Stumpie, now matter how hard I try not to).
The hedgehogs were excited.
Here’s the link to the Ravelry Project Page, which has the full compliment of pictures, if you want to give Stumpie a fave (oh no…).
I’m off to personify yarn somewhere else for a while, and hopefully not start any more four year fiber art projects (yeah right).
-MF
P.S – In case you spied the other crocheted accessories and were curious: I’m wearing two other Morale Fiber designs in these photos – the Spiral Sweater and the Ivy Crown as a boot wrap. 😉 The pumpkin pictured and the felted hedgehogs are also made by me.
