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Novella Shawl Pattern

/ reginaalexisweiss / 32 Comments

The following is a ramble-y lead-up to my new FREE crochet pattern design, a super simple and warm triangular shawl with a touch of adventure – keep scrolling for the free Novella Shawl pattern or get the downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF in my Ravelry Store or Etsy Shop now!

Backstory: Or, How Designing an Easy Shawl Pattern Led Me to Purchase a Bow and Arrow

Drama was one of my many extra-curriculars when I was in high school, although I can’t claim to have ever been any good at it. I got assigned chorus and background roles, which was fine because I had a significant amount of stage fright and I was really only there because my friends were there too.

And because I loved the costumes. Hands down my favorite part of any dramatic endeavor, and a lifelong interest since I was old enough to carry the massive Renaissance Art tome down from the bookshelf.

When I grew up and minored in Art History, I discovered 18th century actress Emma Hamilton and her “Attitudes,” ; the European celebrity would dress in costume and assume various charade poses depicting classical myths as a form of party entertainment for her esteemed friends.

This must be the Mother of Cosplay!

I have an enduring love of dress-up, responsible in no small part for the designs I publish as Morale Fiber as well as the costumes I pair them with. When creating these ensembles, I am also feeling around for a character to portray.

Sort of like an “Attitudes” style character depiction ; as I craft and plan my crochet design and the coordinating outfit, I let that Attitude take shape.

So while the shawl I had started for this was very simple and humble, the Attitude grabbed it, and demanded I make it more dramatic. At first she was just a quiet woman on a forest walk, seeking the perfect tree under which to read her book of short stories, an escape from her daily life at the shop in town.

But she turned and twisted, like the plot of a short story – upon returning, the town she remembered didn’t exist anymore. Its people wiped away from the world from a terrible sickness, and danger lurking now under every seemingly friendly face she passes on the road away from the tragedy. She needed a hood on her carefully woven covering, to shelter from unfriendly eyes, and fur trim to protect from the chill ashy winds starting to blow.

And as the ends of her neat stitching started to unravel, to become frayed and wild, so did the woman, searching for life in the twisted forest. Armed now with more strength and experience, she sets out, to find whatever good people are still left.

I‘m know I’m not holding the bow and arrow right, but hey, give the gal a break. She used to work at a book store, pre-apocolypse 😉

Novella Shawl Crochet Pattern

The Novella Shawl is an easy crochet pattern designed to showcase the unique texture of linked double crochet. This thick, interwoven crochet stitch calls to mind the cozy look of loom weaving while the dramatic point and slight ruffle create a tailored look that flatters. Crochet just the shawl or choose to top it off with a deep hood and fur trim for a really special piece to show off on all your woodland wanderings…

Materials

5.00 mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge), 11.50 mm hook (for jumbo yarn fur trim, if using)

Lion Brand Ferris Wheel (#4 weight, 85 g / 270 yd, 100% Acrylic) 6 skeins  – Color shown is Imaginary Garden
Lion Brand Thick & Quick Go for Faux (#7 weight, 120 g / 24 yd, 100% Polyester) 1 skein – Color shown is Husky – optional
Scissors, tapestry needles – 1 regular, on large-eyed (for the jumbo yarn, if you are using it)
Large button (optional)

Gauge: 6 sts & 4 rows = 2” in LDC

Finished Measurements:  ~ 65 inches along top edge, ~ 35 inches from collar to tip.
Hood: ~ 16 inches deep, ~ 16 inches tall – can be a bit smaller or larger depending on how you finish & seam it.

Stitches & Abbreviations

Chain (ch)
Double Crochet (dc)
Linked Double Crochet (LDC): A special type of double crochet that links each stitch with the last stitch made. A full written tutorial on this technique can be found on my blog here. A video tutorial can be found on my YouTube channel here.
Half-Double Crochet (hdc)
St/sts – stitch /stitches

Notes:
Ch-2 at the beginning of each row does not count as the first st.
Shawl can be made to desired length by adding more or fewer rows maintaining the established increasing pattern. Ruffle edge can also be made longer or shorter by adding non-increase rows. Fur trim & hood optional.

Instructions

To begin, Ch 3.

Row 1: 9 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook.

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc), turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 LDC in the same stitch. 1 LDC in ea of the next 3 sts. 5 LDC in the next st. 1 LDC in the next 3 sts. 2 LDC in the last st. – 15 sts

Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count), turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 LDC in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 6 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 6 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 21 sts

Row 4: Ch 2 (does not count), turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 9 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 9 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 27 sts

Row 5: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 12 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 12 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 33 sts

Row 6: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 15 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 15 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 39 sts

Row 7: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 18 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 18 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 45 sts

Row 8: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 21 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 21 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 51 sts

Row 9: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 24 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 24 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 57 sts

Row 10: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 27 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 27 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 63 sts

Row 11: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 30 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 30 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 69 sts

Row 12: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 33 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 33 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 75 sts

Row 13: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 36 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 36 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 81 sts

Row 14: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 39 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 39 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 87 sts

Row 15: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 42 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 41 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 93 sts

Row 16: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 45 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 45 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 99 sts

Row 17: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 48 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 48 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 105 sts

Row 18: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 51 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 51 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 111 sts

Row 19: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 54 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 54 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 117 sts

Row 20: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 57 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 57 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 123 sts

Row 21: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 60 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 60 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 129 sts

Row 22: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 63 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 63 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 135 sts

Row 23: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 66 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 66 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 141 sts

Row 24: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 69 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 69 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 147 sts

Row 25: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 72 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 72 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 153 sts

Row 26: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 75 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 75 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 159 sts

Row 27: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 78 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 78 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 165 sts

Row 28: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 81 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 81 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 171 sts

Row 29: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 84 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 84 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 177 sts

Row 30: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 87 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 87 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 183 sts

Row 31: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 90 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 90 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 189 sts

Row 32: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 93 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 93 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 195 sts

Row 33: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 96 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 96 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 201 sts

Row 34: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 99 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 99 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 207 sts

Row 35: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 102 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 102 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 213 sts

Row 36: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 105 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 105 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 219 sts

Row 37: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 108 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 108 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 225 sts

Row 38: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 111 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 111 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 231 sts

Row 39: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 114 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 114 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 237 sts

Row 40: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 117 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 117 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 243 sts

Row 41: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 120 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 120 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 249 sts

Row 42: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 123 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 123 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 255 sts

Row 43: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 126 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 126 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 261 sts

Row 44: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 129 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 129 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 267 sts

Row 45: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the same st. 1 LDC in ea of the next 132 sts. 5 ldc in the next st. 1 ldc in the next 132 sts. 2 ldc in the last st. – 273 sts

RUFFLE:

Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first dc). 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st. (1 dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 90 times, or all the way across the long (pointed) bottom edge of the shawl, working 2 dc in the last st. – 364 sts

Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count as first dc). 1 dc in the same st. 2 dc in the next st. (1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st) 181 times, or all the way across the long edge of the shawl. – 546 sts

Rows 3-4 : Ch 3, turn. 1 dc in ea st across.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Hood

Ch 17 (15 sts + 2 for turn).

Row 1: 1 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook. 1 ldc in the next 13 sts, 3 ldc in the last st. Rotate to begin working down the opposite side of the foundation chain. 1 ldc in the next 14 sts. – 31 sts

Row 2: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 13 sts. 2 ldc in ea of the next 3 sts. 1 ldc in the next 14 sts. – 34 sts

Row 3: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 14 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next st, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 14 sts. – 37 sts

Row 4: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 14 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 2 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 15 sts. – 40 sts

Row 5: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 15 sts. 2 ldc in the next st.  (1 ldc in the next 3 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 15 sts. – 43 sts

Row 6: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 15 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 4 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 16 sts. – 46 sts

Row 7: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 16 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 5 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 16 sts. – 49 sts

Row 8: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 16 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 6 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 17 sts. – 52 sts

Row 9: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 17 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 7 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 17 sts. – 55 sts

Row 10: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 17 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 8 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 18 sts. – 58 sts

Row 11: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 18 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 9 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 18 sts. – 61 sts

Row 12: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 18 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 10 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 19 sts. – 64 sts

Row 13: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 19 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 11 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 19 sts. – 67 sts

Row 14: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 19 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 12 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 20 sts. – 70 sts

Row 15: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 20 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 13 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 20 sts. – 73 sts

Row 16: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 20 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 14 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 21 sts. – 76 sts

Row 17: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 21 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 15 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 21 sts. – 79 sts

Row 18: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 21 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 16 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 22 sts. – 82 sts

Row 19: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 22 sts. 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 17 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 22 sts. – 85 sts

Row 20: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 22 sts, 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 18 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 23 sts. – 88 sts

Row 21: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 23 sts, 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 19 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 23 sts. – 91 sts

Row 22: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in the next 23 sts, 2 ldc in the next st. (1 ldc in the next 20 sts, 2 ldc in the next st) 2 times. 1 ldc in the next 24 sts. – 94 sts

Row 23: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the first st. 1 ldc in each stitch across.

Rows 24-25: Rpt Row 23

If adding fur trim, follow Rnds 26 – 27. If not, add 2 more rows of 1 dc in ea st.

Row 26: Ch 2, turn. 1 hdc in the same st, ch 1, sk next st. (1 hdc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) across. 1 hdc in the last st of the row.

Attach Faux Fur with 11.5 mm hook.

Row 27: Ch 2, 1 dc in the next space. 1 dc in each ch-1 space across.

Once the hood and shawl are complete, you may seam hood to the top of the shawl. This can be done before or after adding the fur.

To seam the hood, use locking stitch markers to align the center of the hood (the foundation chain line) with the center of the shawl (Central stitch of Row 1). Place the markers so that the hood is evenly held against the fabric.

Using a length of your main yarn and a tapestry needle, sew the edge of the hood to the edge of the shawl.

Once the hood is seamed and the fur trim is added, use a large-eyed yarn needle to thread the faux fur yarn. Weave in the ends, securing the top of Row 27 to the edges of the shawl so that it transitions smoothly.

Weave in any remaining ends, and add a button to fasten at the collar if you prefer! The holes in row  26 make excellent natural buttonholes or tie-holes – or you could add a chain-loop closure instead. Once this is finished, you’re all done and ready for adventure!

Whatever the character, one thing remains true throughout all photoshoots – I’m either pretending to be freezing in scorching weather, or pretending to be scorching in freezing weather 😉

And then there’s the cliff-perching.

-MF

Rhiannon Cowl Crochet Pattern

/ reginaalexisweiss / 15 Comments

RHC3

Eons ago (it seems) I designed a hooded cowl that was both simply constructed and could be worn several different ways. It started as just a scrap-buster, and I made a couple with random yarns and colors. The result was a fun project that was easy enough for beginner crocheters but was more interesting than just a plain old scarf. I dubbed it the Rhiannon Cowl after one of my favorite mythological deities.

HarvestSpirit3

And yeah, after the song too. Although I’m enough of a fantasy nerd that I knew about the goddess before I knew about the pop song.  But I digress.

RHC1

That was 2015. It didn’t take long before my pattern writing style changed, and I started rebooting some of my older files – the Rhiannon Cowl has been on the makeover list for a LONG time, partly because I have intended to make it available for free.

Today I’m excited to finally be releasing the FULL pattern plus tutorial photos here for FREE – or get the spiffy new downloadable, ad-free file now available in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store 🙂 

RHC12

I’ve made a couple changes to the pattern itself – I eliminated the #5 bulky weight instructions in favor of adding a new size: Large. This size is easier to wear doubled up (the Small can be a little tight that way) and will be wearable as a vest for a wider range of bodies.

I also got rid of the specific yarn requirements. I’ve always thought this pattern looks best as a scrap-buster and so I’ve left the yarn requirements general to reflect that – I used *mostly* worsted weight but some bulky weight sneaked in too and I think it looks great that way 🙂

RHC10

 

I hope you like this fun, quick, fantasy inspired project as much as I do (now that its been gussied up) ❤

RHCCover1.1

Materials:
5.00 mm hook
500-800 yds worsted weight yarn – spare yarns work great for this piece!
Scissors
Tapestry Needle

Gauge: 6 sts and 3 rows = 2”

Finished Measurements:
Small- Approx. 72” circumference at the front
                ~ 40” circumference at the back
                ~ 15” wide
Large- Approx. 90” circumference at the front
                ~ 50” circumference at the back
                ~15” wide

DSC_0079

Stitches and Abbreviations:

st / sts: stitch/stitches

DCh: double chain – see my tutorial here:
                http://bit.ly/33nFcYe

If preferred, a regular chain stitch may be substituted for the double chain

ch: chain.

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

tr: treble crochet

sk: skip

rpt: repeat

rnd: round

ea: each

(parentheses): instructions inside parentheses are to be repeated the number of times indicated just outside the parentheses. When parentheses are followed by “around” it means repeat the instructions until you finish the entire round.

beg: beginning. Refers to the first stitch or set of stitches made for the current row or round, i.e – “beg ch-4” refers to the 4 chain stitches made at the beginning of the round you are working.

counts as / does not count as… : The first chain stitches at the beginning of the round are to gain height to start your round. Because this chain sequence is the same height as the stitches, it occasionally counts as the first stitch of the round and will be the stitch to which you join the end of your round.  If this chain does not count as the first stitch, you will skip it completely and join the end of your round to the next stitch after the chain stitches.

Size Changes: This pattern is written for two sizes: Small and Large. The instructions are written so that whenever there are two different instructions (a size change) those changes appear concurrently separated by a comma. Smalls follow the first number given, Larges follow the second number. So in “(1 dc into each of the next 9 sts, 2 dc into the next st) 15, 19 times.”  Smalls will repeat within parentheses 15 times, Larges will repeat 19 times.

Instructions:

Foundation:  DCh 160, 200. Join with a slip stitch to the first DCh stitch to form a loop. Be careful not to twist.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st as join. 1 dc  in ea of the next 159, 199 sts. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round.  – 160, 200 sts

Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 79, 99 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 3: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc into the same st as join. 1 dc into each of the next 159, 199 Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round.

Rnd 4: Rpt Rnd 2.

Rnd 5: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc , dc into the same st as join. 1 Dc into each of the next 8 stitches, 2 dc into the next st. (1 dc into each of the next 9 sts, 2 dc into the next st) 15, 19 times. Join with a slip st in the first dc of the round. – 176, 220 sts

Rnd 6: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 87, 109 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 7: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc into the same st as join. 1 dc into each of the next 175, 219 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. –  176, 220 sts

Rnd 8: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 87, 109 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 9: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st as join. 1 dc into ea of the next 9 sts, 2 dc in the next st. (1 dc into ea of the next 10 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 15, 19 times. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. – 192, 240 sts

Rnd 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 95, 119 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 11: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. 1 dc in each of the next 191, 239 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. – 192, 240 sts

Rnd  12: Rpt Rnd 10.

Rnd 13: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 dc in the next st. (1 dc into ea of the next 11 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 15, 19 times. – 208, 260 sts

Rnd 14: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 103, 129 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 15: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. Work 1 dc in ea of the next 207, 259 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round.

Rnd 16: Rpt Rnd 14. Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Hood

Fold in the piece in half, aligning the fold along the joining seam. Join new yarn at this corner – you will be crocheting into two layers of the scarf at once. MAKE SURE you are crocheting into the foundation round, NOT round 16. 

Rnd 17: (Work 1 sl st into the next st, working into both layers) 25 times. Ch 3.

Now working in only ONE layer and inserting hook into the bottom of each foundation chain stitch, (sk next st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 52, 72 times. Sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, ch 1. Join with the first ch-1 of the round.

The circle of stitches worked through one layer only will form the base of the next round – you will no longer be working into the 26 stitch seam that forms the back of the hood.

Rnd 18: Ch 3, dc in the same st and in ea st around.  sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Leaf Motif Tie

1st Leaf: Ch 5. Join with a sl st to form a ring. Ch 3 – counts as first dc, 6 dc, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, 7 dc into the ring. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

To begin the double chain, insert hook into one loop of the stitch below the slip stitch join and work one sc. Insert hook into the side bar of the single crochet. Draw up a loop (2 lps on hook). Yarn over and draw through two loops on the hook (one DCh stitch completed).  Double chain 160, 200.

2nd Leaf. – At the end of the double chain, Ch 5. Join with a sl stitch to the 5th ch from the hook to form a ring. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 6 dc, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, 7 dc into the ring. Join with a sl st to the first dc, then secure the top of the leaf onto the DCh cord with another slip stitch. Cut yarn and tie off.

Weave in all yarn ends!

Starting at the base of the hood, weave half of the tie in and out of the spaces between the dc stitches of Rnd 17. Weave the other half through the spaces of the opposite side. Ta-da! Your brand new cowl awaits your woodland adventures!

Wear it as a hood with the drawstring tied to form a warm capelet scarf – hood down, it becomes a shawl! Place the hood on from the back and place arms through the back opening to wear as a scarf vest, or double up the scarf loop around the neck for extra toastiness.

My style might change, but I still make all the same faces when I photograph myself 😛 Cheers!

-MF

Trickster Art Yarn Hood

/ reginaalexisweiss / 8 Comments

If you’re a regular reader of this here weblog, you know that I love to spin yarn and that recently I’ve been spinning a lot of art yarns full of glorious lumpy texture: slubs, coils, beehives, and locks! It’s these crazy textures that make stitching with art yarns almost as fun as making them.

However, there really aren’t a lot of crochet patterns out there that feature art yarns – most example projects I come across are knits, and for good reason. Knit stitching is generally easier to use when working up these super-lumpy strands because it involves less wrapping around and pulling through. But there is one form of crochet I’ve been doing a lot lately that really lends itself to using art yarns : TUNISIAN, yeah buddy!

UPDATE 8/2020: Never tried Tunisian before? There is now a growing playlist full of Tunisian Crochet video tutorials over on the Morale Fiber YouTube channel – check it out!

Tunisian tends to trap textures on the nubby, bumpy wrong side… so with a little special trickery, I created this fantastical hood that showcases the all the art yarn awesomeness (and uses as little as 30 yds of it!).  Check out the Trickster Hood pattern now in my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern store for 5.95 USD!

tricksterhoodcollage1

Trickster Art Yarn Hood

The Trickster Hood is a fantastical fae accessory with a long point, deep hood, and a ton of possibilities! This bad boy comes in Large and Small sizes and can be trimmed with any novelty yarn or just 30-50 yards of handspun art yarn!

The hood is worked flat in Tunisian crochet and then seamed up the bottom side. The main body uses a mix of worsted weight yarns with blended color changes and the trim alternates bulky yarn with novelty or art yarns. The front of the bonnet-style hood is fastened with a button so you can wear it up around the face or down on the shoulders.

tricksterhoodcollage3

Isn’t it too dang cute?!

Don’t know Tunisian crochet? This pattern comes with the Tunisian Primer as a bonus PDF file, with all the basics of Tunisian techniques that you will need to work this pattern. The pattern itself includes photo-tutorials on color changing, construction, and stitching with art yarn.

hoods

Back to front – Large size hoods Bonfire (with Teeswater locks art yarn), Mabh (with novelty fur yarn Romance), and Magnolia (with handspun beehive yarn). Very front: Small hood Pagan Santa (with novelty fur yarn Romance)

Requirements:
6.50 mm Tunisian hk, 5.00 mm regular crochet hk
About 320 yds total #4 weight yarn (I used Lion Brand Heartland – lengths for specific colors are given in the pattern)
200-250 yds #5 or #6 weight yarn
30-50 yds Super Bulky weight hand spun Art Yarn OR 50-60 yds novelty fur or eyelash yarn (I used Lion Brand Romance)

In the spirit of doing holiday stuff way too early, I made the smallest size pictured as a non-traditional winter holiday hat!

smallhood

Sort of reminds me of those old-fashioned Santa Clauses that I always preferred over the weird bloated Coca-Cola version of Santa. I dunno, he just looks much less manic than modern Santa, with his faraway look and basket full of branches.

oldfashionedsanta

Like he’s really just an old, confused guy and can’t remember whether he’s delivering presents or trimming people’s hedges.

-MF

mabh8