Acanthus Top

Life has seemed at once hectic and uneventful recently, my “normal” summer months stretching on under the strain of the daily news and the smell of spray sanitizer, but my evenings peaceful and filled with fragrant breeze and birdsong.

This summer, is not like last summer. But my gratitude has not changed. For the friends I have, for the capabilities I am given, and for each day, whether it’s spent alone or not – after all I’ve learned a lot in the past year about how we are all connected.

During this isolationary idyll, I’ve designed a VERY comfy and cute top that you’ll want in every color: the Acanthus Top, now available in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Pattern Store!

A lush and leafy bralette top perfect for the laziest of summer days! This crochet crop top features wide, lacy straps that interweave to form a racer-back shape, maximizing comfort without sacrificing prettiness. Shell detail edging trims the entire piece and frames your bodice in pretty flowing lines. The Acanthus Top is designed for a looser, more natural fit – like a cross between a bralette and a halter top!

Combining a structured silhouette with a peek-a-boo center, this crop top pattern covers SIX sizes (X-Small – 2XL) with detailed written instructions and step-by-step photo tutorials. I really aimed to make this one of the most versatile and wearable Morale Fiber halter top designs yet πŸ™‚

In Mediterranean culture and art, the Acanthus plant symbolized long life and immortality and was a regular feature of classical architecture ❀ I hope you love this new design and that it has a long life in your closet!

The Acanthus Top was the first design of mine to be produced using a full complement of pattern testers and they did an AWESOME job helping me hone this design and expand the size offerings. I plan more tests in the future – if you are interested in participating, I make the call-outs in my Facebook Group, the Magic Fantastic Crochet Atelier. Join us and keep a look out for the next test!

Meanwhile I’ll be taking my Acanthus Top out to lounge in a hammock as soon as possible! πŸ™‚

-MF

Basic Bikini Cup Tutorial

One of the very first things I tried my hand at when I began crafting more complex crochet projects was the bikini top. It seemed like such a doable project, in a relatively short amount of time, and for great rewards – something totally cute to wear that I MADE!

Well, once I started I never did stop trying variations of these, and I became fascinated with the different ways these comfortable and fun projects could be shaped. I followed other patterns, looked at charts and countless examples on Pinterest, and made many of my own including some for which I formed specific designs and published as PDFs!

(Pictured above: The Basic Bralette)

But it was the popularity of the Basic Bralette Tutorial that spurred me to finally create a general Bikini Cup tutorial. Much like with the bralette design, the Basic Bikini Cup Tutorial is meant to be a jumping-off pattern from which you can experiment with your own unique variations.

For the Basic Bikini Cup Tutorial, we’re going to give a bunch of examples and show how cup shape and size can be modified by varying stitch height and increases.

Hopefully this is a good overview useful for both seasoned crocheters as a quick reference and for newbies who don’t know where to start. If you like this tutorial and want to save it, give it a fave on the Ravelry design page!

I’ve included photos, written instructions, AND how-to videos with examples of the strategies used to create one-of-a-kind halter tops and bikinis out of these customized cups ❀ I hope you love!

Check out these other halter top patterns from Morale Fiber or keep scrolling for the FREE Basic Bikini Cup Tutorial!

Basic Bikini Cup Tutorial

Notes:

-Cups are worked by stitching up one side of the foundation row, increasing at the peak (or end) and stitching down the other side. These rows are turned and worked back and forth, placing the increases at the central top for every row.
-First row counts as the foundation row, not Row 1 – be careful when counting your rows. I find it easiest to count by the number of increases.
-Beginning chain does not count as first stitch
-Cups can be worked to desired size by adding rows that maintain the established pattern
-Cups can be put together in a multitude of ways – crochet around them and experiment with inventing unique halters of your own – I tried to include lots of inspiration photos!
-The following includes the pattern of three basic size/shape options, which illustrate the different ways to modify size. Mix and match the strategies as shown to create a custom fit ❀
-Find video tutorial instructions on creating your own unique halter below the written patterns & check out the examples provided throughout! πŸ™‚

Size and shape are determined by manipulating the following factors:


1. Stitch height: Here I’m working with single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc) and double crochet (dc)
2. Foundation Length: The number of stitches that make up the central row to be stitched around. I stick within the range of 10-15 normally but it can be any amount.
3. Increase Style: Increases are placed at the central peak of the cup – here I’m either adding +4 stitches per row (2 stitch, 1 chain, 2 stitches increases – where the chain does not count) or +2 stitches per row (1 stitch, 1 chain, 1 stitch increases).
4. Number of Rows: How many rows of stitching are made.

I make a few size recommendations below each cup – but just be aware that you can make any of these to any size desired, depending on how you finish them.

Single Crochet Cups

Stitch: SC
Foundation #: 10
Increases: (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc)

Ch 11 – (10 chain stitches for the foundation stitches, + 1 extra for the turn)

Foundation Row: Sk first ch st, 1 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each of the next 9 ch sts. – 10 sc

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts. In the end of the foundation row, working into the 1 ch st left over from the foundation, work (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc). Rotate the row so as to work down the opposite side, into the initial foundation chain (working the bottom loops). 1 sc in ea of the next 10 sts. – 22 sc

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count), turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 10 sc. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 sc in ea of the next 11 sts. – 24 sc

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count), turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 11 sc. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 sc in ea of the next 13 sts. – 26 sc

Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count), turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 12 sc. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 sc in ea of the next 14 sts. – 28 sc

Row 5: Ch 1 (does not count), turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 13 sc. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 sc in ea of the next 15 sts. – 30 sc

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 14 sc. (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 sc in ea of the next 16 sts. – 32 sc

You can continue on in this pattern for as many rows as you like, maintaining the same method of increasing in the central ch-1 and working 1 stitch in every other stitch.

Above: Two single crochet style cups. Left – Foundation 10 sts, +2 / (1sc, ch 1, 1 sc) increases.
Right – Foundation 5 sts, +4 / (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) increases.

I worked the SC, +4 increase style cup for 9 rows to make the top shown below. This pattern makes a very small, flat cup and is appropriate for A cup sizes.

And Sc, +2 increases and 9 rows to make this top – I recommend this cup for A-B size busts.

Half Double Crochet Cups

Stitch: HDC
Foundation #: 10
Increases: (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc)

Pictured Above, from left to right:
1. HDC, Foundation 10 sts, +2 / (1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc) increases.
2. HDC, Foundation 15 sts, +2 (1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc) increases.
3. HDC, Foundation 10 sts, +4 (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) increases.

Ch 12 – (10 chain stitches for the foundation stitches, + 2 extra for the turn.)

Foundation Row: Sk first 2 ch sts. 1 hdc in the 3rd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 9 ch sts. – 10 hdc.

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. In the end of the foundation row, working into the side of the 2 chains left over from the foundation, work (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc). Rotate the row so as to work down the opposite side, into the initial foundation chain (working the bottom loops). 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts. -24 hdc

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count), turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 hdc. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. – 28 hdc

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts. – 32 hdc

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts. – 36 hdc

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 17 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 18 sts. – 40 hdc

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 19 sts. (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in ea of the next 20 sts. – 44 hdc

You can continue on in this pattern for as many rows as you like, maintaining the same method of increasing in the central ch-1 and working 1 stitch in every other stitch.

Cups made with either +2 increases or +4 increases in HDC are my all-purpose cup pattern. They really do well with most bust sizes, have good proportional qualities, and are a good place to start if you don’t know your preferred size exactly.

In this YouTube video, I show how to work the HDC, +4 increase style step by step – but it’s a good example of the techniques no matter what stitch and increase combo you use! Check it out:

I used HDC, +4 increases to make this top:

The crocodile stitch scale portion that I worked onto the bottom of the cups is from my Feather & Scale Halter Top crochet pattern! πŸ™‚

Double Crochet Cups

Stitch: DC
Foundation #: 15 (+2)
Increases: (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc)

Pictured Above: 1. (Top) – DC, Foundation 15 sts, +4 / (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) increases.
2. DC, Foundation 5 sts, +4 / (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) increases.

Ch 17 – (15 for the foundation sts, + 2 to turn)

Foundation Row: Sk first 2 ch sts. 1 dc in the 3rd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. – 15 dc.

Row 1: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 14 sts. In the end of the foundation row, working into the side of the 2 chains left over from the foundation, work (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc). Rotate the row so as to work down the opposite side, into the initial foundation chain (working the bottom loops). 1 dc in ea of the next 15 sts. – 34 dc

Row 2: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 16 dc. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 dc in ea of the next 17 sts. – 38 dc

Row 3: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 dc. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. – 42 dc

Row 4: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 dc. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. – 46 dc

Row 5: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 dc. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. – 50 dc

Row 6: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 dc. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 space. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. – 54 dc.

You can continue on in this pattern for as many rows as you like, maintaining the same method of increasing in the central ch-1 and working 1 stitch in every other stitch.

I used the DC, +4 increases style cups with the 5-stitch foundation length to make this bikini! DC stitch cups get wider faster (because of stitch height) and are therefore a great choice for fuller busts.

DC, +4 increases with a foundation length of 15 makes a much bigger cup, as you can see in this halter top (I’m a B-ish cup but it could easily fit a larger chest)

Finishing Your Bikini

There are a lot of different strategies for completing a crocheted top once both bikini cups have been made. First, you’ll need to attach them, which I usually do by crocheting across the bottom of one cup, then directly onto the bottom of the other as one row.

From there, you can crochet rows off the side, work in rounds, add straps, and create other features such as decorative stitching an added motifs. Here’s some side views of completed tops to show the bands and straps:

The video demo below shows how to crochet a bottom band to attach the cups, as well as some of my strategies for creating a finished top including creating bands and straps. I also show in more detail the types of finishings on the tops pictured above πŸ™‚

By utilizing the different lengths of foundation stitch, stitch height, and number of increased stitches, this style of bikini cup can be made exactly as you like! I hope this tutorial and explanation is useful, and if you have specific questions be sure to leave a comment! ❀

Thanks – and don’t forget to get out (safely) into the sunshine!

-MF

Valkyrie Top Crochet Pattern

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It seems to be a running theme with me that sometimes (or often?) projects and designs have a long history of development – way longer than I had intended! With things like the Elf Coat, it’s just a matter of the time it takes to create something technically, stitch by stitch.

With things like the Lotus DusterΒ and the new halter top design, it’s more about idea development and waiting until I’ve mustered the required inspiration and skill to pull something off.

Either way, the process of creation over relatively long periods of time causes me to ruminate on the nature of life, and growth. The other side of this of course is the more serious, and scary, concept of death and the hope of rebirth. I had already decided to name this new crochet piece the Valkyrie Top, after those female warrior spirits in viking myth who rode down from the skies to take the slain to their eternal hall.

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Just before I was ready to release this pattern, the theme of death was brought very close to home for me. I can’t say more than this: I hope this new piece makes you and your loved ones feel like the badass female warriors you are – because you all are.

Please look at yourself with love today. Because you are living being on this earth, and that’s magical.

 

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Find the new design now on Ravelry and Etsy ❀

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Manifest your inner amazon with the Valkyrie Top, named after those mythical viking women who rode across the sky to retrieve the souls of warriors and take them to their eternal halls.

This cotton halter top crochet pattern is designed for beauty, comfort, and versatility. The subtle shaping in the cups creates a contour on the bust that prevents slippage, while the criss-cross ties on the back keep your halter top in place without adding pressure on the neck.

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The netted design and accent motif at the top looks great layered under light summer clothing or all by itself, and the simple shell bottom border is easy to extend for more coverage. Includes sizes Small (Cup sizes A/B), Medium (Cup sizes B/C) and Large (Cup sizes D/DD)!

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This digital PDF crochet pattern provides stitch-by-stitch written instructions that include references to 50+ full-color tutorial photos as well as links to the technique tutorials needed for this design that are provided for free on my blog. Create a unique piece that is both flattering and fun to wear – the Valkyrie Top is your perfect summer accessory to slay in!

Materials:
3.50 mm hook
I Love This Cotton! (#4 weight, 3.5 oz / 100 g, 180 yds) 1,1,2 skeins.
Accent color in #4 weight cotton, about 100-80 yds
Scissors and tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Sizes (approximate):

Small: 21” length, 10” height, Cup sizes A/B
Medium: 21” length, 10” height, Cup sizes B/C
Large: 26” Length, 13” height, Cup size D/DD

~*I offer troubleshooting and pattern help for all of my patterns. All of my paid patterns always come with the right of individual artisans to sell the finished product*~

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That awesome matching macrame pendant and bracelet set is by Selinofos Art – check out their shop on Etsy!

The belt I’m wearing in this shoot is a variation on my Cecilia Skirt Belt pattern using old crochet lace and upcycled leather scraps. I have more pixie skirt style belt ideas and free tutorials in my Pixie Pocket Belt blog series.

I had fun doing this photo shoot, despite the 90 degree weather and the 1 billion per cent humidity! The scenery was epic and I got to incorporate more balance poses which I’ve recently been practicing.

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Damn that wig was making me sweat though πŸ˜€

-MF

Feather & Scale Halter Top

I could not be more thrilled to be rolling out my newest design today, brought to you in part by the willingness of my lovely friends to dress up in crazy costumes in the middle of the Indiana summer heat for me πŸ˜‰

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May I present, for your edification and delight,the Feather & Scale Halter Top pattern? I dreamed up this design back in January, inspired by scale mail festival and costume clothing pieces, and have been diligently plugging away on the details all summer!

The crochet pattern PDF is available for purchase in my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern Store for 5.95 USD (but there’s a big sale still going on right now, so you can get it for cheaper than that if you hurry before August 1st). Read more about this one-of-a-kind pattern below!

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The Feather & Scale Halter Top uses fine variegated cotton blend yarn to create an eye-catching gradient of crocodile stitch scales on the outer top, with a built-in inner cup lining for coverage and support. The cross-back ties keep the weight off of the neck so you can comfortably dance & groove that feathery fringe into motion!

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Size pictured: X-Small in Schachenmayr Tahiti

With the dramatic triangle shaping to accent the body’s curves, this halter is both figure flattering and fun to wear – and the pattern is written for FIVE sizes, X-Small – X-Large (corresponding to AA/A – DD cup sizes ).

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Size Pictured: Medium in Schachenmayr Tahiti

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Size pictured: X-Large in Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow

The pattern is well stocked with all of the details on the techniques needed to create this unique piece, including extensive instructions on creating the crocodile stitch used for the main part of the halter – as well as precise step-by-step written instructions that correspond with nearly 100 tutorial photos! Additionally, I’ve begun to dig into developing some tutorial video skills with this one – be gentle, I’m still very much learning!

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Materials:
3.75 mm hk
Schachenmayr Tahiti, 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) skeins – (#1 weight, 1.75 oz / 50 g per 306 yds, 99% cotton / 1% polyester)
OR
Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow, 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) skeins – (#1 weight, 5.29 oz /150 g per 623 yds, 55% acrylic 45% cotton)
Scissors
Tapestry needle
6” Length of cardboard, book, or fringe maker

Sizes & Finished Measurements:
X-Small (XS): Underbust length – 15”, Cup height – 6”, Cup Size – AA/A
Small (SM): Underbust length – 17”, Cup height – 7”, Cup Size – A/B
Medium (MD): Underbust length – 19”, Cup height – 8”, Cup Size – C
Large (LG): Underbust length – 21”, Cup height – 9”, Cup Size – D
X-Large (XL): Underbust length – 23”, Cup height – 11”, Cup Size – DD

Extra Credits!: The horns worn by my green dragon top model are from Dark Pony Art, the wire wrap necklace worn by my Rainbow XL top model is from Twisted Forrest JewelryΒ – please check them out and support small business art!

Models: Daisey Denson, Arika Harris, Katy Sanders ❀

You have reached the portion of the pattern post where there’s just a buttload of photos! Enjoy πŸ™‚

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I think this one is my favorite, but it’s actually impossible to choose.

I hope you like this new design! I have done some fantasy-inspired pieces in the past, but I really cranked the staging up to 11 with this one – expect more of that in the future ❀

-MF

Plus Size Mehndi Halter Top

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Though it’s been two years since I first published the Mehndi Halter Top design, I’ve never stopped wanting to create the plus size version – like I did with the Sol Halter and the Plus Size Sol – but for some reason it just took me a while πŸ™‚ Everything in its own time, amiright? At any rate, the pattern is finally ready and available in my Ravelry Pattern Store and my Etsy Shop for 5.95 USD!

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The Mehndi Halter Top pattern draws inspiration from the thick lotus petal motifs, linework, and dot borders in traditional henna design. Made in bright #4 weight cotton yarn, this pom-pom fringed top makes a unique addition to dance costumes, festival wear, or your next beach adventure!

The Plus Size version is designed for bigger busts, utilizing a cross-back tie for adjustability and comfort. The band size is 26” at the bottom of the halter with a height of 10″ from top of cups to bottom of the halter (not including the trim). The cross-back ties are 55″ and thread through loops at the side, taking the weight off of the back of the neck as with traditional halter tops.

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As usual, detailed instructions and stitch counts are included in the written pattern, as well was lots of detailed step-by-step photos!

Materials needed:

Hobby Lobby I Love This Cotton (#4, 3.5 oz/180 yds) – 2 skeins Color A, plus 1 coordinating color
3.50 mm hook
Stitch Marker
Scissors
Tapestry Needle

All instructions written in English and in US terminology.

I really hope you love making & wearing this one! My goal was to put it out by the end of May, and I’m squeaking it in right under the line πŸ˜‰ Because I love you! πŸ™‚

-MF

Blossom Vest Crochet Pattern

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Yay! I love pattern-release days. Designing, creating, writing, modeling, and laying out a crochet pattern is definitely a labor of love – and that makes it so exciting to sit back and look at the final product when it’s all put together. So, I hope you enjoy this new one as much as I do! It’s the Blossom Vest, now available through Etsy and Ravelry for 5.50 USD πŸ™‚

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This retro-chic granny square vest is what your wardrobe needs for all of your summer adventurings! Whether you wear it over tanks and tees as a vest or lace it up for a sweet halter top, the Blossom Vest is ready to jam.

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This pattern can create 4 different vest sizes using sleek and comfortable 100% cotton yarn in #4 weight – with tons of color possibilities, you’ll want to make one for every outfit!

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From left to right: X-small, Small, Medium, Large

Sizes:
X-small: 3.50 hk, 5 Rnds – 30” bust, 16” length (measured from top of strap to lowest point on the square)
Small: 5.00 hk, 5 Rnds – 35” bust, 18” length
Medium: 3.50 hk, 6 Rnds – 37” bust, 19” length
Large: 5.00 hk, 6 Rnds – 44” bust, 23” length

Pattern includes tons of tutorial photos for the main pattern, plus bonus tutorials on working all of the less common stitches used in the pattern. A separate Printer-Friendly PDF is also included! Written in US crochet terminology.

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Materials:
3.50 hook, 5.00 hook
4-5 skeins Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton
Scissors, Tapestry Needle, Fringe Maker (a book or stiff cardboard will do!)
Blocking board and pins (recommended)

Now it’s REALLY starting to feel like summer! ❀

-MF

Sol Halter Top

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Drawing on inspiration from the numerous cute crochet halter tops that pop up on my Pinterest feed, I’ve designed a Β free spirited crochet halter top pattern that’s quick, cool, and comfortable!

It’s the Sol Halter Top, available for 5.50 USD on Ravelry or Etsy.

 

This halter top goes anywhere from beach to festivals to yoga class! The top is designed for coverage and comfort while still feeling free to be your awesome self.

The Sol Halter top is designed for a comfortable, supportive fit that still looks fashionable with any outfit. Looks pretty layered with flowing see-through blouses, denim shorts, or long tiered skirts for a cool bohemian style.

Size Small fits A to lower B cup sizes, size Medium fits upper B to mid- C range cup sizes, with a band size up to about 44” for both sizes (measurement includes tie length – 20” at the bottom of the halter + 12” for each tie)

Pattern includes detailed, step-by-step directions with stitch counts and tutorial photos. Best of all, it only uses one skein of the recommended yarn, making it a cute and super affordable gift for your friends or just for yourself!

Yarn Weight required: #4 Worsted Weight
Hook size: 3.5 mm
Pattern written in US crochet terminology

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For bigger cup sizes, check out my Plus Size Sol version of this pattern!

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-MF

Bindu Recycled Sweater Bikini

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When it comes to screaming “beach hippie” I don’t think you can get much louder than the crocheted bikini, and it didn’t take me very long to make one after re-entering the world of crochet in my late teens. Except, because I didn’t know any better seven years ago… I made it out of 100%Β acrylic. Yikes.

Acrylic yarns do not breathe, and aren’t the kind of material you want to sweat in. All I’m sayin’ is, crochet yourself an acrylic bikini and prepare for your boobs to suffocate.

Cotton’s much better.

Cotton can absorb up to 27 times its own weight in water, and the fibers actually become stronger when wet. Cotton’s thermal conductivity keeps the body warm in winter and cool in summer – in addition to its unique fiber structure that allows ventilation of air. Sounds like good bikini material to me.

I hodge-podged this crocheted bikini top together using recycled cotton sweater yarn and some really tight half doubles. The cup design comes from this wonderful, free bikini halter top pattern from Melissa Bjerregaard on Ravelry.

However, I decided to design my own edging for the cups. The following is more of a pattern recipe than a pattern. I used a lot of different techniques to make this, so for easy searching I have linked to any instructional material BOTH in the pattern AND in the following list.

Tutorial References:

Pineapple Lace summer halter neck top by Melissa Bjerregaard

Everything You Need to Know to Start Recycling Sweater Yarn by Morale Fiber

Double Chain Tutorial by Morale Fiber

Pom Pom Edge by Once Upon a Pink Moon

Crochet Chart Symbols from Craft Yarn Council

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Inspiration for this free bikini halter top pattern came from my love of henna designs, the thick lotus-petal shaped motifs, linework and dot borders. Made from recycled cotton yarn, this pom-pom fringed top is earth friendly and perfect for dance class, unique festival wear, or your next beach adventure!

Stats:

Hook: Use whatever fits your yarn. I used a 2.25.

Yarn: 100% cotton yarn recycled from an old sweater, yarn similar to the following measurements: Β #1 weight, 22 WPI, 250 yards (.229 g per yard).

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Gauge: As tight as you can manage.

A few notes: I really dislike the “bump” under shirts in the back caused by tied bikini straps, so I rigged up a button system to avoid that. The pattern recipe is for regular style straps, so my pictures will differ slightly from the pattern.

I could not find the standard symbols for a few of the stitches I used. For these stitches I included a key in the charts.

1.Β First, crochet yourself two separate cups using the directions from this pattern.

2. With the wrong side of the cup facing, work a simple filet of (dc, ch 1) up one side of the top of the cup. I started at the bottom right corner and worked a ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch 1), *sk next stitch, dc in the next stitch* rpt.

When you come to the top point of the cup formed by the central 3 hdc cluster, you will work ONE of the following charts to increase. Making the filet increase for this point depends on whether you have an even number of stitches or an odd number.

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Once you have worked your increase, continue working the filet repeat down the other side of the cup until 2 or 3 stitches from the bottom corner (just make sure you end your repeat on a dc). Without chaining, dc in the 2nd or 3rd stitch from the bottom corner of the next cup, connecting the two cups. Work the edging for the next cup in the same manner as the first. Work the repeat all the way to the corner of the second cup. Cut yarn & fasten off.

3.Β Double chain (click hereΒ for instructions) the length you want your side strap to be. With the right sideΒ of the cups facing, begin to single crochet across the bottom of the cup – you will be working stitches into the row edges of the original cup.

I didn’t sc in the edge of every row, because it came out looking too loose- remember that this is going to stretch a bit in places! So I skipped about every third stitch – experiment and see what looks right. When you reach the end of the first cup, ch 1 and continue to sc across the bottom of the second cup using the same ratio.

When you reach the end of the second cup, start a double chain using the last sc as your base. Double chain the same length as your first side strap. Do not tie off.

4.Β Work 2 single chain stitches at the end of your double chain length. Turning your stitch direction counterclockwise (but not flipping the chain over) work hdc down the back of each double chain stitch, back toward the bikini cup.

Working the back of the double chain toward the cup. Ignore the fact that I have part of my bottom edging on already. For you, the bottom will just be straight.

Working the back of the double chain toward the cup.
Ignore the fact that I have part of my bottom edging on already.

When you reach the cup, sc in each stitch across (both the dc stitches and the ch-1’s count as stitches here) until you reach the point at the top of the cup. Double chain your first strap from here, as long as you want it. When your strap is the appropriate length, ch 2 and work a hdc in each double chain stitch back down the opposite side of the chain. When you reach the cup point again, resume single crocheting two stitches from the beginning of your double chain.

The strap connecting point should look like this

The strap connecting point should look like this

Sc in each stitch until 3 stitches from the connecting point of the two cups. Ch 2, sk 6 stitches, sc in the next stitch and in each stitch across until you reach the point at the top of the second cup.

The 1st row and the 2nd row of the cup join.

The 1st row and the 2nd row of the cup join.

Work your strap in the same manner as with the first cup, then sc in each stitch until your reach the end of the second cup. Hdc in each double chain stitch of the strap until the end. Cut yarn and tie off.

5. Working with the bottom edge of the bikini, decide where you would like the edge motif to start and end (make sure you still have enough room to tie your straps tight – again, THIS WILL STRETCH SOME, so take that into account). You need a multiple of 5 +1 for the pattern repeat. Place markers at the beginning and end of your range.

Joining your yarn at your beginning stitch, work the following motif pattern within your set range of stitches.

a. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1). *sk next stitch, dc in the next st, ch 1* rpt.

b. Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across.

The bottom stitches are either double chain stitches or single crochet, depending on whether you are working the strap or the bottom of the cup.

The bottom stitches are either double chain stitches or single crochet, depending on whether you are working the strap or the bottom of the cup.

c. *Ch 9, sk 4 sts, sl st in the next st.* rpt

d. Ch 1, turn. *Work (2 hdc, 3 dc, 3 tr, 3 dc, 2 hdc) in the next ch-9 space* rpt.

BikiniChart1b

e. Turn. Sl stitch in the next 7 stitches. *ch 5, work 1 pom pom stitch, ch 5, sl stitch in the middle treble of the next cluster* rpt.

BikiniChartMain

Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all the ends.

Crochet Bikini 13

Looks a little curly, doesn’t it? This is where blocking comes in. Since this is cotton, you can just dunk the entire thing in some water and soak it for a few minutes, then gently squeeze the water out (do not wring it). Lay it out on a towel and arrange it so the hem lays flat. You can pin it down to hold the shape if need be, paying special attention to the points to get a good dramatic silhouette goin’ on. Wait for it to dry and you’re done!

Ta-Da!

Ta-Da!

I added some wide wooden beads for a little extra fun by just slipping the strap through them. Now if only my state wasn’t completely landlocked.

If spending a ton of time messing with teeny yarn and guessing cup size is annoying for you, check out the Mehndi Halter Top – a paid pattern inspired by this project but uses #4 weight cotton blend yarns and detailed row-by-row directions in cup sizes from A- 38C!

Mehndi1

-MF