Priestess Coat

Today I am excited to debut my third Tunisian crochet coat design – the Priestess Coat! To be honest, I did not think that I would ever publish a written pattern for this design, the first draft of which appeared in my blog 3 years ago.

It was originally an attempt at a fuller, more feminine coat, based off of my already-existing Shaman Coat written pattern. Deciding that I needed to start from the ground up to get what I really wanted, the redesign eventually led to the Elf Coat, which is totally different in appearance and construction.

First draft of the Priestess Coat pictured, in Lion Brand “Amazing” and Lion Brand “Pelt” yarns

I had posted some pictures of this original draft (above), and linked to them when I talked about the process of dreaming up the Elf Coat, and do you know what? Lots of people actually followed that link, and read the original post, and still wanted a pattern for the first attempt! So many people asked over the years that I decided to go ahead and just finally write a full pattern for that coat as well!

What can I say? I’m a people-pleaser at heart 😀

With the help of a stellar team of pattern testers, the Priestess Coat design has been written for SIX sizes and includes all the usual bells and whistles – read on for more details or get the pattern directly from my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern Store. Scroll all the way to the bottom to hear about the BIG SALE!

Priestess Coat Tunisian Crochet Pattern

Create a prismatic rainbow robe or a shimmering mantle dark as a raven’s feather with the imaginative Priestess Coat, a full-length Tunisian Crochet pattern written for six sizes (XS-2XL). Expanding on the ideas of my simpler Shaman Coat design, this all-new pattern combines the ease of construction with flattering flair using corset lacing and graceful pointed panels.

You’ll want to find any reason to wear this glorious garment – the monkishly wide, lightly flared sleeves are great for tucking in nippy hands while the hood keeps the neck and head toasty. Easy corset lacing in the back creates structure and adds interest, leading down to the stars of the show – the diamond panels, stitched individually into openings left in the pattern of the main coat!

Though it looks complex, the Priestess Coat is crocheted with just Tunisian Simple Stitch and a few other basic techniques. The pattern includes written instructions for sizes XS-2XL, detailed tutorial photographs, schematics, and how-to’s for all the special stitches needed to create this magical mantle.

The PDF files also include a Tunisian Primer for those that have never worked Tunisian crochet before, and links to my video resources made specifically for my Tunisian coat patterns!

Materials Needed:

Main Hook: 6.50 mm Tunisian hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) – straight Tunisian single ended hook or single-ended Tunisian cabled hook is fine
Border & Laces : 5.50 mm regular crochet hook
Fur Trim: 11.5 mm regular crochet hook
or sizes needed to obtain gauge

Main Yarn: Lion Brand Shawl in a Ball (#4 weight, 150 g / 481 yds, Cotton/Acrylic): 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins, 1900 – 2900 yds total
Accent Yarn: Lion Brand Go for Faux Thick & Quick (#7 weight, 120 g / 24 yd, Polyester): 2-3 skeins (48-72 yds total)
Yarn needle, Tapestry needle, Scissors
Length of Ribbon / Yarn / Fabric (for back lacing)
Buttons or lacing for the front (optional)

Written in English using US crochet terminology.

All my life I’ve loved mythology, history, and fantasy – so of course it comes out in my art, as I express whatever spirit I’m trying to capture in fabric. Whether it’s priestesses and valkyries or shamans and tricksters – I hope it’s a story that empowers people. People tell stories and stories change people; I want to tell the right ones so I can help change the world, even if it’s only a tiny part of it.

So the release of this pattern I’m offering a rare BOGO deal through my Ravelry Pattern Store only – buy the Priestess Coat pattern, get the Shaman Coat pattern for free with the code “STORIES” for the first full WEEK of the new pattern debut (through the end of 10/22). Just put them both in your cart and enter the code during checkout! Since I consider the Shaman Coat the simpler, beginner sister to the Priestess Coat, I wanted to make sure everyone had a chance to access both patterns in case they wanted to practice with the easier one first!


You can also get the 2-pattern Priestess Coat / Shaman Coat bundle in my Etsy Shop and save $2, or save $3 with the 3-pattern bundle which includes the Elf Coat PDF as well. These bundles are everyday deals and aren’t going anywhere! Also, don’t forget about my multi-pattern discount codes – listed in the header of my Etsy Shop and in every paid pattern description in my Ravelry Store:

Pattern Store Discount Codes:
15% off of 2: MF15OFF
20% off of 3-4: MF20OFF
25% off of 5-6: MF25OFF
30% off of 7: MF30OFF

I say this a lot but I could never do my art without those that buy from me and support me, so THANK YOU!! From the bottom of my heart – and stay tuned because my gratitude is alchemically turned into more patterns for you! 😉 ❤

-MF

Some costume credits go to two of my favorite shops! The comfy stretch knit dark blue dress I’m wearing is the Fit & Flair dress from Elven Forest Creations on Etsy.

The gorgeous Luna Moth hair clip is from The Forest Fae, find their Etsy shop here.

I highly recommend both shops!

P.S – My brother once asked (in actual curiosity) what I did for my business besides twirl around in fields. 😀 The answer is A LOT of different stuff – geometry and math and accounting and graphic design and writing and editing and troubleshooting – the twirling is only about 5% of it. But MAN it is the best 5%!

Witch Hat Pattern

Fandoms come and go for me. If you’ve been reading this blog for long enough, you’ll remember projects, photos and posts inspired by popular media and geek cultures – GOT and Harry Potter and Krampus to name a few! I’ve made Video Game Guys and Coralines and Pikachus for friends that may or may not ever make it on to the blog, and I’ve become fixated on and then subsequently grown out of a number of fandoms myself.

One though, I’ll never grow out of, and that’s Discworld.

If you know, you know. If you don’t, it’s hard to explain! With 40+ Discworld novels spanning a lifetime writing career, British fantasy author Terry Pratchett first appeared on my bookshelf when I was an adolescent. His combination of comedic fantasy and humanitarian social commentary hooked me immediately and I’ve been reading and re-reading his books ever since.

The graphic novels are great too, I have most of them! Pictured here in the free pattern for the Teddy Bear Onesie

So when I had a couple crochet hat pattern ideas for the blog, I thought it would be fun to match them to two of my favorite characters from the Disc: Part 1 is Tiffany Aching, Witch of the Chalk!

Read on for more info, or save this project by favoriting the Ravelry Project page!

Tiffany is a young heroine from Pratchett’s YA Discworld series who runs the dairy on her shepherding family’s farm, which she is driven to defend (with a frying pan) when the Queen of the Otherworld crosses over and steals her little brother. Tiffany’s ambitions to become a witch are helped by her tiny, drunk, warlike pictsie friends the Nac Mac Feegle, and her adventures are chronicled through the 5 book series which Pratchett completed just before he died in 2015.

This pattern was started just from a love of making witch hats – I happen to have another similar hat pattern for free, the Hedge Witch Hat, available on my blog on in PDF format! This time, though, I wanted something taller and pointier, something really traditionally witchy, with a structured brim and a severe point.

Since this is in a traditional style, I’m keeping it simple and calling it the Witch Hat 🙂

Witch Hat

This traditionally shaped witch hat uses tight single crochet and gradual increases to create a tapering point perfect for any aspiring magic wielder. The pattern includes instructions for wiring the brim of the hat as well!

Materials:

3.25 mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)
#4 Worsted Weight Yarn – Caron Simply Soft is pictured here (300 yards)
~46″ of flexible craft wire + wire cutters (optional, for brim)
Scissors, tapestry needle, stitch markers

Gauge: 5 sts + 5 rows = 1″

Notes: Ch – 1 at the beginning of the round to start. Beginning Ch-1 does not count as first sc.

Instructions:

Make Magic Ring.

Row 1: 6 sc into the ring. Sl st in the 1st sc of the round to join. – 6 sts

Round 2: 1 sc in the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the round to join. – 7 sts

Round 3: 1 sc in the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the round to join. – 8 sts

Round 4: 1 sc in the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 9 sts

Round 5: 1 sc in the next 8 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 10 sts

Round 6: 1 sc in the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 11 sts

Round 7: 1 sc in the next 10 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 12 sts

Round 8: 1 sc in the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 13 sts.

Rnd 9: 1 sc in the next 12 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 14 sts

Rnd 10: 1 sc in the next 13 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 15 sts

Rnd 11: 1 sc in the next 14 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 16 sts

Rnd 12: 1 sc in the next 15 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 17 sts

Rnd 13: 1 sc in the next 16 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 18 sts

Rnd 14: (1 sc in the next 8 sts, 2 sc in the next st) rpt the parentheses 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 20 sts

Rnd 15: (1 sc in the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 22 sts

Rnd 16: (1 sc in the next 10 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts

Rnd 17: (1 sc in the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 26

Rnd 18: (1 sc in the next 12 sts. 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 28 sts

Rnd 19: (1 sc in the next 13 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 30 sts

Rnd 20: (1 sc in the next 14 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 32 sts

Rnd 21: (1 sc in the next 15 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 34 sts

Rnd 22: (1 sc in the next 16 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts

Rnd 23: (1 sc in the next 17 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join witha sl st. – 38 sts

Rnd 24: (1 sc in the next 18 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 40 sts

Rnd 25: (1 sc in the next 19 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 42 sts

Rnd 26: (1 sc in the next 20 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 44 sts

Rnd 27: (1 sc in the next 21 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join witha sl st. – 46 sts

Rnd 28: (1 sc in the next 22 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 48 sts

Rnd 29: (1 sc in the next 15 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 51

Rnd 30: (1 sc in the next 16 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 54

Rnd 31: (1 sc in the next 17 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 57

Rnd 32: (1 sc in the next 18 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 60

Rnd 33: (1 sc in the next 19 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 63 sts

Rnd 34: (1 sc in the next 20 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts

Rnd 35: (1 sc in the next 21 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 69 sts

Rnd 36: (1 sc in the next 22 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts

Rnd 37: (1 sc in the next 23 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 75 sts

Rnd 38: (1 sc in the next 24 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts

Rnd 39: (1 sc in the next 25 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 81 sts

Rnd 40: (1 sc in the next 26 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts

Rnd 41: (1 sc in the next 27 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 87

Rnd 42: (1 sc in the next 28 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 43: (1 sc in the next 29 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 93 sts

Rnd 44: (1 sc in the next 30 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 96 sts

Rnd 45: (1 sc in the next 31 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 99 sts

Rnd 46: (1 sc in the next 32 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 102 sts

Rnd 47: (1 sc in the next 33 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 105 sts

Rnd 48: (1 sc in the next 34 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 108 sts

Rnd 49 – 55: 1 sc in ea st around. – 108 sts

Rnd 56: (1 sc in the next 17 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 114 sts

Rnd 57: (1 sc in the next 18 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 120 sts

Rnd 58: (1 sc in the next 19 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 126 sts

Rnd 59: (1 sc in the next 20 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 132 sts

Rnd 60: (1 sc in the next 21 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 138 sts

Rnd 61: (1 sc in the next 22 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 144 sts

Rnd 62: (1 sc in the next 23 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 150 sts

Rnd 63: (1 sc in the next 24 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 156 sts

Rnd 64: (1 sc in the next 25 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 162 sts

Rnd 65: (1 sc in the next 26 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 168 sts

Rnd 66: (1 sc in the next 27 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 174 sts

Rnd 67: (1 sc in the next 28 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 180 sts

Rnd 68: (1 sc in the next 29 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 186 sts

Rnd 69: (1 sc in the next 30 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 192 sts

Rnd 70: (1 sc in the next 31 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 198 sts

Rnd 71: (1 sc in the next 32 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 204 sts

For a structured brim: Make a ring about the side of the brim of your hat from the craft wire. Fold the excess over at both ends, hooking the wire together, matching the diameter of the brim (get close but doesn’t have to be exact). In the next round, hold the wire on top of the piece, inserting your hook under the stitch and the wire to draw up loops, then yarn over on top of the wire and complete the stitch to trap the wire inside your stitches. Work this method around the entire brim for the following round:

Rnd 72: 1 sc in ea stitch around. – 204 sts

You may have to unhook and adjust your wire for more or less length toward the end of the round. Once finished, re-fold and hook the wire together, flatten the folded ends to close them off around each other, and clip off any excess. Then crochet as best you can over the wire join.

Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in ends – I wove my yarn end from the brim around the wire join lump, to give it some extra security! 🙂


As weapons go, I really identify with the choice of cast-iron pan, my favorite cooking implement 😉

-MF