Elf Coat: Pointed Pockets

First things first! To see all available sizes of the FREE Elf Coat pattern, as well as all the available add-ons to this design, please visit the Elf Coat FAQ page for links ❀

During the process of updating the original Elf Coat Pattern, I decided it was finally time to make an Elf Coat of my very own! I’ve had this color of King Cole DK Riot “Funky” saved back specifically for this purpose for years – the colors feature warm purples, lavender, sage greens, olive and hints of fuschia – all my favorite colors πŸ™‚

I worked up a size Small in this colorway, partly to test out the new shoulder and hood shaping that was part of the big update – and also to keep my head in the game while my awesome pattern testers worked on the Elf Coat Plus Sizes pattern expansion which was just released. This whole design has had a lively life so far, and I can’t wait to see where you all take it in the future πŸ˜‰

While working, I also made some modifications on the skirt wedges that resulted in a larger skirt seamed to a smaller bodice – for more info on how to pull that off, I made a YouTube tutorial how-to! πŸ™‚

While making my personal version of the Elf Coat, I couldn’t help but try out my vision for a pointed pocket, inspired by the type of pixie pocket shape featured on Katwise’s (www.katwise.com) coats, which are responsible for helping inspire this design. I didn’t want to mess around with doing the inset pockets, so I decided that I could do the pointed shape and apply it directly to the outside of the coat after it was finished for an “afterthought” pocket. Keep scrolling for the FREE pattern for these cute pointed pockets for the Elf Coat πŸ™‚

I also added a sweet little faux fur trim to the hood – 6 rows of fuzzy yarn in LDC with a 3.50 mm hook and I will NEVER do something so crazy again, haha! πŸ˜› It was slow going, but I did eventually accomplish that faux fur and I’ll say now that it was worth it.

I also really love how the buttons came out – I had an assortment of detailed metal vintage buttons and I love the way they add interest and character ❀

I give each of these coats a name and a personality and I dubbed my own personal Elf Coat “Twig Nest” – for reasons πŸ˜€ I’m a hodge-podge, helter-skelter chaos artist and if I were a bird, my nest would be a dopey looking pile of twigs on the ground – but there’d be love in there πŸ™‚

Pointed Pockets Pattern

Following all yarn, hook, and gauge instructions from the original pattern.

With 6.50 Tunisian hook and main yarn:

Row 1: Ch 3. TSS in the 2nd chain from the hook and in the next ch st. RP – 3 sts

Rows 2-3: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 3 sts

Row 4: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Rows 5-6: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts

Row 7: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the last st. RP. – 7 sts

Rows 8-9: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts

Row 10: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.

Rows 11-12: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts.

Row 13: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts

Rows 14-15: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts

Row 16: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts

Row 17: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts

Row 18: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts

Row 19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts

Row 20: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts

Row 21: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts

Row 22: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next space, TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the last space, TKS in the last st. RP. – 21 sts

Row 23: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts

Row 24: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next space, TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the last space, TKS in the last st. RP. – 25 sts

Row 25: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next space, TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the last space, TKS in the last st. RP. – 29 sts

Row 26: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next space, TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the last space, TKS in the last st. RP. – 33 sts

Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts, TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 11 sts, TKS dec over the next 2 sts, TKS in the last st. RP – 29 sts.

Row 28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts

Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts, TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 9 sts, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the last st. RP. – 25 sts

Rows 30-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts

Switch to 3.50 mm regular crochet hook.

LDC Row 1: Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st, inserting hook into the tunisian stitches as if to TKS (but working regular crochet instead). 1 LDC (Linked Double Crochet, see Stitches & Techniques section in the main pattern) in ea of the next 24 sts.

LDC Rows 2-3 : Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in each stitch across.

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing the pocket onto the coat.

Using the long yarn tail and tapestry needle, sew the pocket onto the outside of the finished coat using a whip stitch or your preferred seaming stitch.

I’ll be taking another long break from Elf Coats now, especially considering that I gloriously injured my shoulder while cranking out this particular coat! But no worries, there’s plenty more coming from your friendly neighborhood Mad Fiber Scientist…
-MF

Elf Coat Pattern: XL – 2XL/3XL

To see all available sizes of the FREE Elf Coat pattern, as well as all the available add-ons to this design, please visit the Elf Coat FAQ page for links!

It’s finally here you guys! This page contains the FREE PLUS SIZES pattern for the Elf Coat, my most popular pattern ❀ And it’s all thanks to you! Your encouragement, feedback, and testing (and of course LOVE) powered me through all the work necessary to get this design expanded for plus sizes. I simply can’t wait to see what you all make!

Although this pattern is written for XL and 2XL, the sizes are oversized, meaning that 2XL measurements cover the standard measurements for 3XL as well! Please see the Sizes section in the notes for more details on that πŸ˜‰ If you need a reference for the sizing standards I use, those can be found here!

The portable, printable, ad-free PDF for this crochet pattern is also available in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store – purchasing the paid version of this pattern is a great way to directly support my art! Or if you don’t need the PDF, consider leaving a tip in the Tip Jar if you feel it’s worth it! πŸ™‚

If you want to show off your awesome Elf Coat, have you joined our super nice and supportive Facebook Group, the Magic Fantastic Crochet Atelier? They (and I) would love to see your work!

Elf Coat Plus Sizes XL – 2XL / 3XL

Materials & Notes

6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook
King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic) – 17, 19 skeins
Pockets: 1 extra skein makes inset pockets, ~ Β½ a skein makes outside pockets.
Gauge for Riot DK: 9 sts & 10 rows = 2”
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 21, 23 skeins
Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”

Sizes: X-Large, 2XL/3XL. Pattern instructional variations are given for each size, in this order. Where no variation occurs, instructions apply to all sizes. Please see notes below the finished measurement section for more details.

Finished Measurements:
Measurements are approximate and given for the original gauge using Riot DK. Substituting a different yarn or gauge may result in different measurements.Waist: ~50β€³, 57”
Bust: ~50β€³, 57”
Hip: ~56β€³, 64”
Sleeve: 22β€³ (measured armpit to hem), 22”
Length: ~40β€³

Sizing Notes: This pattern is based on the number of wedges in the skirt, making 15 wedges (7 pointed, 8 simple) for the XL size, and 17 wedges (8 simple, 9 pointed) for the 2XL size. Please note that due to this incremental difference between all sizes (2 extra skirt panels per each size up) means that the Plus Sizes are actually oversized. This is why 3XL is included under 2XL – the 2XL is already bigger than the 3XL’s standard measurements based on this sizing system. Please be sure to measure your actual body size and compare to the measurements given for each size to determine which size to make. Bigger coats can also be adjusted to fit using the optional corset back lacing and belt tie additions included in this pattern.
Some parts of the pattern include areas where lengthening or shortening is an option (the bottom of the front & back panels, the height of the waistband, and the crochet trim). Please be aware that if you need the coat length adjusted these options are available!

Configuration of wedges on size Small

Size medium

Size Large

Notes on yarn, gauge, and sizing:

Yarn: I chose King Cole Riot DK yarn for this pattern because of its long color changes and pretty one-ply structure that makes the colors and the stitches well defined. The DK weight and 30% wool content creates a sleek and lightweight fabric that is also very warm. However, the big box hobby stores in the U.S do not carry this yarn – I get it from a UK website called LoveKnitting.com (which I highly recommend!).

So, I wanted to find a substitute yarn that is more commercially available and the closest I could find was Red Heart Unforgettable, which also looks gorgeous for this design. RH Unforgettable is 100% acrylic, which has the benefit of zero felting, and being allergy/vegan friendly. It is also a #4 weight yarn which means it will gauge differently.

Above: Panels made in Red Hear Unforgettable

Gauge: Since the two yarns gauge differently, I have listed the gauges for each yarn individually under the materials section. These are using the 6.50 mm hook listed. If you use Unforgettable following it’s gauge, you can get a slightly bigger coat using the same stitch counts listed in the pattern.

9 stitches = 2β€³ in Riot DK

10 rows = 2β€³ in Riot DK

8 sts = 2β€³ in RH Unforgettable. It’s really more like 8.5 stitches, but we’re calling it 8 because of stretch!

9 rows = 2β€³

 It’s also an option to change the hook size for Unforgettable to obtain the gauge given for Riot DK, if you want to use the alternate yarn but still get the size pictured.

NOTE FOR LEFTIES: If you are left-handed, your pattern pieces will be mirrored – for instance, your left panel for the torso of the jacket will be worked from the Right Panel pattern, and vice versa.

Techniques Used:

Chain (ch)
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) – stitch used for each coat piece. Tutorial can be found on my blog here:  https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Increase (TKS inc): Increasing in Tunisian Knit Stitch. Tutorial here: – https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Decrease (TKS dec): Decreasing in Tunisian Knit stitch – tutorial here: https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
Linked Double Crochet (LDC): Creating a row of double crochet that are linked in the middle. Tutorial here:  https://moralefiber.blog/2018/02/02/linked-double-crochet-tutorial/
Slip Stitch (Sl st): Used selectively for seaming
Whip Stitch: Sewing stitch made with a tapestry needle with yarn as thread, used for seaming.

Video Tutorials: I have created a playlist of video tutorials for working all the Tunisian stitches and other special techniques needed for this design, please refer to those on my YouTube channel at the link below! 😊
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i8JEaMwoXg&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJGbejoOm

Technique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful crochet technique and I love it and highly recommend learning if you haven’t. But since this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just rows of regular stitches with some increases and decreases – that’s really it) a different technique can easily be substituted in. As long as your stitches match the gauge given, you could work this pattern in regular single crochet or regular knit stitch.

One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet or one regular knit/purl stitch.

I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single crochet, and obtained a closely matching gauge using a 4.0 mm hook.

If you are working this pattern in a regular crochet stitch, keep in mind that Tunisian crochet does not ever turn, so your rows will be alternately β€œopposite” what the Tunisian instructions are. For instance, a piece that decreases at the beginning of every row in Tunisian, will alternately decrease at the beginning and decrease at the end for a regular, turning stitch.

Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does wonders for your finished piece, especially with Tunisian crochet which tends to curl naturally. Blocking for this piece can be done simply by laying your piece out on a foam mat, using blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat and pretty and in the right shape. Using a spray bottle and plain water, wet the piece, then let dry. This works great with wool based yarns (King Cole Riot DK) and moderately well with acrylics (RH Unforgettable).

If you have any questions about any of the info given above (it’s a lot!), please don’t hesitate to contact me via e-mail at moralefiber@yahoo.com or on my blog Pattern Help and Support page here:
https://moralefiber.blog/pattern-help-support/
Or via Messenger on my FB page here:
www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber

Now on to the pattern!

Instructions

The pieces of this coat can be made in any order.

Simple Wedge (Make 8, 8)

Both the simple wedges and the pointed wedges can be shortened by subtracting 8 rows right after the initial Row 1.

Ch 15.

Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches

Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15 sts

Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts

Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts

Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts

Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.

Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts

Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts.

Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts

Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts.

Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.

Pointed Wedge (Make 7, 9):

The point is formed by concentrating the increases in the center part of the wedge, with increasing frequency as the wedge gets larger. There are no decreases used to form the point. When the pointed wedge is finished and tied off, stretch the central point outward gently to fully accent the shape.

Ch 15.

Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches

Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 15 sts

Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts

Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts

Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts

Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts

Rows 20-27: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts

Row 28: TKS in the next 8 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts

Rows 29-32: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts

Row 33: TKS in the next 9 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts

Rows 34-37: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts

Row 38: TKS in the next 10 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. RP. – 25 sts

Rows 39-42: TKS across, RP. – 25 sts

Row 43: TKS in the next 11 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts. RP. – 27 sts

Rows 44-47: TKS across, RP. – 27 sts

Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts

Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts

Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts. RP. – 31 sts

Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts

Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. RP. – 33 sts

Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts

Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts. RP. – 35 sts

Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts

Row 58: TKS in the next 16 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. RP. – 37 sts

Row 59: TKS across, RP. – 37 sts

Row 60: TKS in the next 17 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts. RP. – 39 sts

Row 61: TKS across, RP. – 39 sts

Row 62: TKS in the next 18 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 41 sts

Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts

Row 64: TKS in the next 19 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 43 sts

Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts

Row 66: TKS in the next 20 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 45 sts

Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts

Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts

Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts

Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts

Row 71: TKS in the next 25 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 55 sts

Row 72: TKS in the next 26 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 57 sts

Row 73: TKS in the next 27 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 59 sts

Row 74: TKS in the next 28 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. – 61 sts

Row 75: TKS in the next 29 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts

Row 76: TKS in the next 30 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. RP. – 65 sts

Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts. RP. – 67 sts

Row 78: TKS in the next 32 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. RP. – 69 sts

Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts

Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Skirt Construction

Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges as shown, seam all blocks together with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn.

Waist length for the size Small.

After stitching the wedges, the stretch at the seams will add width to the length of the coat bottom. This will be corrected by the waist stitching later.

Skirt Border:

The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked Double Crochet, worked back and forth, with increases at the point of each pointed wedge.

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of the skirt hem.

Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at the point of each pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this increase.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each point where the increase was marked.

Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each ch-1 from the increase points of the previous row.

Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie off. You can work extra border here if you want the skirt longer!

Close-up of the increases placed at the point of each pointed wedge

WAIST:

The waist is worked directly onto the top of the wedges that make up the skirt. One stitch is skipped on every block, to create a slight decrease in width to accentuate the waist.

Waist size for Small

Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the line of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop from the foundation chain or first row of stitches using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 14, 16 times. RP. – 210, 238 sts

To modify the size here, add or subtract any rows after the first one to make it longer or shorter. To create inset pockets, see β€œPockets” Instructions, before completing the waistband. Outside pockets may be completed after the waistband is finished.

Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP. 

Bodice – Front & Back Panels

Note on Size for the Front & Back Panels:

All sizes work 26 rows of TKS before beginning to decrease and shape the collar and shoulder area.  You can add or subtract rows from the total of 26 in order to modify the length of the coat.

The bodice panels should reach from the shoulders down to cover the bust and end just under the bust line. However many rows you work, be sure to work the same amount of TKS rows in the beginning for each panel!

Back Panel:

The back panel is worked the length of stitches that equals half of the number of stitches in the waist. In size XL, the waist is 210 sts. Divided in half, that’s 105. In 2XL, the waist is 238 sts, divided in half that’s 119.

The completed Back Panel should be approximately 13.5 inches tall for XL, and 14.5 for 2XL. If you need a longer measurement here (should reach just below the bust), add more rows where indicated in the pattern.

Back panel, Small

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 105, 119

Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 104, 118 sts. Return pass (RP). – 105, 119 stitches

Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 105, 119 sts

Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2.

To increase length of the front & back panels, add more rows here.

Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 97, 111 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 103, 117 sts

Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 95, 109 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 101, 115 sts

Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 93, 107 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 99, 113 sts

Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 91, 105 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 97, 111 sts

Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 89, 103 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 95, 109 sts

Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 87, 101 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 93, 107 sts

Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 85, 99 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 91, 105 sts

Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 83, 97 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 89, 103 sts

Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 81, 95 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 87, 101 sts

Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 79, 93 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 85, 99 sts

Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 77, 91 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 83, 97 sts

Row 38: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 75, 89 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 81, 95 sts

Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 73, 87 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 79, 93 sts

Row 40: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 71, 85 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 77, 91 sts

Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 69, 83 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 75, 89 sts

Row 42: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 67, 81 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 73, 87 sts


Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 65, 79 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 71, 85 sts

Row 44: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 63, 77 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS I the next 2 sts. RP – 69, 83 sts

Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 61, 75 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 67, 81 sts

Row 46: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 59, 73 sts. TKs dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 65, 79 sts

Row 47: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 57, 71 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 63, 77 sts

Row 48: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55, 69 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 61, 75 sts

Row 49: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53, 67 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 59, 73 sts

Row 50: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 51, 65 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 57, 71 sts

Row 51: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 49, 63 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 55, 69 sts

Row 52: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 47, 61 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 53, 67 sts

Row 53: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 45, 59 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 51, 65 sts

Row 54: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43, 57 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 49, 63 sts

Row 55: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 41, 55 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 47, 61 sts

Row 56: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 39, 53 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 45, 59 sts

Row 57: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37, 51 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 43, 57 sts

Row 58: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 35, 49 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 41, 55 sts

Row 59: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 33, 47 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 39, 53 sts

Row 60: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31, 45 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 37, 51 sts

Row 61: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29, 43 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 35, 49 sts

Row 62: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27, 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33, 47 sts

Row 63: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25, 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 31, 45 sts

Row 64: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23, 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 29, 43  sts

Row 65: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21, 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 27, 41 sts

Row 66: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19, 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 25, 39 sts

XLs stop here and tie off, 2XLs proceed:

2XL Only

Row 67: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 37 sts

Row 68: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 35 sts

Row 69: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33 sts

Row 70: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 31 sts

Row 71: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 29 sts

Row 72: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 27 sts

Row 73: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 25 sts.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Front Panel – Right:

The front panels are worked with the length of stitches equaling the half of the waistband that the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two, so each panel will be a quarter of the total waistband stitches. For X-Larges, that’s 210 / 4 = 52.5. Since that’s not a whole number, I will round down to 52 and fudge the seam by one stitch. For 2X-Large, that’s 238 / 4 = 59. 5, again not a whole number so rounded down to 59.

The completed Front Panels should be approximately 13.5 inches in total length for XL, 14.5 for 2XL. If you need a longer measurement here (should reach to just below the bust), add extra rows where indicated in the pattern.

Front Panel, right, size small

Front Panels size medium

Front Panel, right, size large. Pictured is a panel with an alternate length of 38 rows in the beginning.

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 52, 59.

Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 50, 57 sts. Return pass (RP). – 52, 59 stitches

Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 52, 59 sts

Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2.

To increase length of the front & back panels, add more rows here.

Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 48, 55 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 51, 58 sts.

Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 47, 54 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 50, 57 sts.

Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 46, 53 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 49, 56 sts.

Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 45, 52 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 48, 55 sts.

Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 44, 51 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 47, 54 sts.

Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 43, 50 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 46, 53 sts.

Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 42, 49 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 45, 52 sts.

Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 41, 48 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 44, 51 sts.

Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 40, 47 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 43, 50 sts.

Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 39, 46 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 42, 49 sts.

Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 38, 45. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 41, 48 sts.

Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 37, 44 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 40, 47 sts.

Row 39: TKS in ea of the next 36, 43 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 39, 46 sts

Row 40: TKS in ea of the next 35, 42 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 38, 45 sts

Row 41: TKS in ea of the next 34, 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 37, 44 sts

Row 42: TKS in ea of the next 33, 40 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 36, 43 sts

Row 43:  TKS in ea of the next 32, 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 35, 42 sts

Row 44: TKS in ea of the next 31, 38 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 34, 41 sts

Row 45: TKS in ea of the next 30, 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 33, 40 sts

Row 46: TKS in ea of the next 29, 36 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 32, 39 sts

Row 47: TKS in ea of the next 28, 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 31, 38 sts

Row 48: TKS in ea of the next 27, 34 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 30, 37 sts

Row 49: TKS in ea of the next 26, 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 29, 36 sts

Row 50: TKS in ea of the next 25, 32 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 28, 35 sts

Row 51: TKS in ea of the next 24, 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 27, 34 sts

Row 52: TKS in ea of the next 23, 30 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 26, 33 sts

Row 53: TKS in ea of the next 22, 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25, 32 sts

Row 54: TKS in ea of the next 21, 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24, 31 sts

Row 55: TKS in ea of the next 20, 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23, 30 sts

Row 56: TKS in ea of the next 19, 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22, 29 sts

Row 57: TKS in ea of the next 18, 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21, 28 sts

Row 58: TKS in ea of the next 17, 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20, 27 sts

Row 59: TKS in ea of the next 16, 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19, 26 sts

XL stop here, resume at β€œAll Sizes”

2XL Only

Row 60: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25 sts

Row 61: TKs in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 sts

Row 62: TKs in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23 sts

Row 63: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22 sts

Row 64: TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21 sts

Row 65: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20 sts

Row 66: TKS in ea of the next 16 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19 sts

All Sizes:

Row 60, 67: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts

Row 61, 68: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts

Row 62, 69: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts

Row 63, 70: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts

Row 64, 71: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts

Row 65, 72: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts

Row 66, 73: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Front Panel – Left:

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 52, 59.

Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 50, 57 sts. Return pass (RP). – 52, 59 stitches

Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 52, 59 sts

Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2.

To increase length of the front & back panels, add more rows here.

Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 49, 56 sts. RP – 51, 58 sts.

Row 28: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 48, 55 sts. RP – 50, 57 sts.

Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 47, 54 sts. RP – 49, 56 sts.

Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 46, 53 sts. RP – 48, 55 sts.

Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 45, 52 sts. RP – 47, 54 sts.

Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 44, 51 sts. RP – 46, 53 sts.

Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 43, 50 sts. RP – 45, 52 sts.

Row 34: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 42, 49 sts. RP – 44, 51 sts.

Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 41, 48 sts. RP – 43, 50 sts.

Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 40, 47 sts. RP – 42, 49 sts.

Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 39, 46 sts. RP – 41, 48 sts.

Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 38, 45 sts. RP – 40, 47 sts.

Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 37, 44 sts. RP. – 39, 46 sts

Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 36, 43 sts. RP. – 38, 45 sts

Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 35, 42 sts. RP. – 37, 44 sts

Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 34, 41 sts. RP. – 36, 43 sts

Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 33, 40 sts. RP. – 35, 42 sts

Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 32, 39 sts. RP. – 34, 41 sts

Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 31, 38 sts. RP. – 33, 40 sts

Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30, 37 sts. RP. – 32, 39 sts

Row 47: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 29, 36 sts. RP. – 31, 38 sts

Row 48: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28, 35 sts. RP. – 30, 37 sts

Row 49: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 27, 34 sts. RP. – 29, 36 sts

Row 50: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 26, 33 sts. RP. – 28, 35 sts

Row 51: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25, 32 sts. RP. – 27, 34 sts

Row 52: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 24, 31 sts. RP. – 26, 33 sts

Row 53: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23, 30 sts. RP – 25, 32 sts

Row 54: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22, 29 sts. RP – 24, 31 sts

Row 55: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21, 28 sts. RP – 23, 30 sts

Row 56: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20, 27 sts. RP – 22, 29 sts

Row 57: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19, 26 sts. RP – 21, 28 sts

Row 58: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18, 25 sts. RP – 20, 27 sts

Row 59: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17, 24 sts. RP – 19, 26 sts

X-Larges stop here and resume at β€œAll Sizes”

2X-Large Only

Row 60: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. RP – 25 sts

Row 61: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. RP – 24 sts

Row 62: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. RP – 23 sts

Row 63: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. RP – 22 sts

Row 64: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. RP – 21 sts

Row 65: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. RP – 20 sts

Row 66: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. RP – 19 sts

All Sizes:

Row 60, 67: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts

Row 61, 68: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts

Row 62, 69: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts

Row 63, 70: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts

Row 64, 71: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts

Row 65, 72: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts

Row 66, 73: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Back & Front Panels and Adding the Skirt

Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch the sides of the panels together so that the long angles face each other. Stitch together the straight sides, but not the angles. Once the bodice is sewn together, line the flat bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach using a 5.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn by working a slip stitch through both pieces – you may also use a whip stitch seam here, but I prefer the slip stitch seam at the waist because it’s sturdier.

SLEEVE (Make 2):

The sleeves for all sizes begin with a 16-chain length, then work a portion of increases creating a slant that lines up with the slanted edge of the bodice. The sleeve then works decreases to size down for the main part of the arm (worked evenly), then increases again for the flared sleeve.

The former design placed the decrease portion at the ends of the rows, but the new 2.0 version is written so that the decreases are placed centrally, in the middle of the row. This allows the fabric to slant downward to follow the natural line of the shoulder. If you prefer working the old style, simply place the decreases at the ends of the rows instead 😊

Sleeve size small (old style decreases pictured)

Sleeve size large, new style decreases

Sleeve size small, with the new style of decreasing (above and below)

Ch 16.

Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts

Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts

Row 3: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 20 sts

Row 4: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 22 sts

Row 5: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 24 sts

Row 6: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 26 sts

Row 7: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 28 sts

Row 8: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 30 sts

Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts

Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 34 sts

Row 11: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 36 sts

Row 12: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 38 sts

Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts

Row 14: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts

Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 38 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts

Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 46 sts

Row 17: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 42 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts

Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 44 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 50 sts

Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 52 sts

Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts

Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 56 sts

Row 22: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 52 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 58 sts

Row 23: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 54 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 60 sts

Row 24: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 56 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 62 sts

Row 25: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 58 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 64 sts

Row 26: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 64 sts

Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 60 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 66 sts

Row 28: TKS in ea st across. RP – 66 sts

Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 62 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts.

Row 30: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts

Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 64 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 70 sts

Row 32: TKS in ea st across. RP – 70 sts

Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 66 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 72 sts

Row 34: TKS in ea st across. RP – 72 sts

Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 68 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 74 sts

Row 36: TKS in ea st across. RP – 74 sts

Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 70 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 76 sts

Row 38: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76 sts

Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 72 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 78 sts

Row 40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts

X-Larges Stop here, resume at All Sizes

2X-Larges Only

Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 74 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 80 sts

Row 42: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts

Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 76 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 82 sts

Row 44: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82 sts

Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 78 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 84 sts

Row 46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84 sts

Row 47: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 80 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 86 sts.

All Sizes:

Row 41, 48: TKS in ea of the next 29, 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30, 34 sts. RP. – 76, 84 sts


Row 42, 49: TKS in ea of the next 28, 32 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29, 33 sts. RP. – 74, 82 sts

Row 43, 50: TKS in ea of the next 27, 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 28, 32 sts. RP. – 72, 80 sts

Row 44, 51: TKS in ea of the next 26, 30 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27, 31 sts. RP. – 70, 78 sts

Row 45, 52: TKS in ea of the next 25, 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 26, 30 sts. RP. – 68, 76 sts

Row 46, 53: TKS in ea of the next 24, 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25, 29 sts. RP. – 66, 74 sts

Rows 47-87, 54 – 94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 66, 74 sts

Row 88, 95: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 60, 68 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 68, 76 sts

Row 89, 96: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68, 76 sts

Row 90, 97: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 62, 70 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 70, 78 sts

Row 91, 98: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 70, 78 sts

Row 92, 99: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64, 72 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 72, 80 sts

Row 93, 100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 72, 80 sts

Row 94, 101: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 66, 74 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 74, 82 sts

Row 95, 102: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 74, 82 sts

Row 96, 103: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 68, 76 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 76, 84 sts

Row 97, 104: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76, 84 sts

Row 98, 105: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70, 78 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 78, 86 sts

Row 99, 106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78, 86 sts

Row 100, 107: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 72, 80 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 80, 88 sts

Row 101, 108: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80, 88 sts

Row 102, 109: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 74, 82 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82, 90 sts

Row 103, 110: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82, 90 sts

Row 104, 111: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76, 84 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 84, 92 sts

Row 105, 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84, 92 sts

Row 106, 113: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 78, 86 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 86, 94 sts

Row 107, 114: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 86, 94 sts

Row 108, 115: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 80, 88 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 88, 96 sts

Row 109, 116: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88, 96 sts

Row 110, 117: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 82, 90  sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 90, 98 sts

Row 111, 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 90, 98 sts

Row 112, 119: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 84, 92 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 92, 100 sts

Row 113, 120: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 92, 100 sts

Row 114, 121: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 86, 94 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 94, 102 sts

Row 115, 122: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 94, 102 sts

Row 116, 123: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 88, 96 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 96, 104 sts

Row 117, 124: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 96, 104 sts

Row 118, 125: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 90, 98 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 98, 106 sts

Row 119, 126: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98, 106 sts

Row 120, 127: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 92, 100 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 100, 108 sts

Row 121, 128: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 100, 108 sts

Row 122, 129: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 94, 102 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 102, 110 sts

Row 123, 130: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 102, 110 sts

Row 124, 131: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 96, 104 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 104, 112 sts

Row 125, 132: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 104, 112 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Sleeve:

Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the piece. Seam together using a whip stitch, starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving toward the shoulder. At the underarm of the sleeve, leave 44, 51 rows unseamed on either side. Match the remaining opening to the front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows to cap the tops of the panels, overlapping the tops of the front & back panels by 4 stitches.

Sleeve seaming size small (old style sleeve pictured)

Sleeve fitting size Large, new style sleeve pictured. 4 of the 5 stitches at the top of the front panel are overlapped by the top 4 rows of the sleeve.

Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the front and back panels, using a one-to-one row/stitch ratio.

Close-up of the sleeve fitting.

Sleeve Border

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam where the sleeve is sewn together.

Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 times in the same stitch, inserting hook as if to TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join with a slip stitch in the top of the first dc.

Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first stitch and 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.

Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.

Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves longer here by adding extra border rounds of LDC.

Close-up of the sleeve border joining seam.

HOOD:

The hood is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete. This hood is has a very long point – it’s a lot of hood! If you prefer a slightly shorter hood, seed β€œHalf Hood” instructions below the regular hood instructions. Either size hood can be made and attached to any size Elf Coat.

Working a Shortened Hood (Formerly the Half Hood): This is the alternative to the full size hood design which conserves a little yarn. Like the full hood, it is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete and seamed. To shorten it somewhat, I removed one of the two non-increase rows after each increase row in the first part of the design. You can use either hood interchangeably when creating your coat, though, no matter which size you are making! To work the Shortened Hood, skip one of the two non-increase rows between each increase row for the first 76 rows written. Then, resume the Hood pattern as normal at Row 77.

Shortened Hood, above

Full Hood, above

Ch 3.

Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of the next 2 chain stitches. RP. – 3 sts

Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Rows 3-4: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts

Row 5: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next
3 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts

Rows 6-7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts

Row 8: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.

Rows 9-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts

Row 11: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts

Row 12-13: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts

Row 14: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts

Rows 15-16: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts

Row 17: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts

Rows 18-19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts

Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts

Row 21-22: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts

Row 23: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 19 sts

Rows 24-25: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 19 sts

Row 26: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 21 sts

Rows 27-28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts

Row 29: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 23 sts

Rows 30-31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts

Row 32: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 25 sts

Rows 33-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts

Row 35: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 27 sts

Rows 36-37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts

Row 38: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 29 sts

Rows 39-40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts

Row 41: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 31 sts

Rows 42-43: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 31 sts

Row 44: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 33 sts

Row 45-46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts

Row 47: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 35 sts.

Rows 48-49: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 35 sts

Row 50: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 37 sts.

Rows 51-52: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts

Row 53: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 39 sts

Rows 54-55: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 39 sts

Row 56: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 41 sts

Rows 57-58: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 41 sts

Row 59: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 43 sts

Rows 60-61: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 43 sts

Row 62: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 45 sts

Rows 63-64: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts

Row 65: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 47 sts

Rows 66-67: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 47 sts

Row 68: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 49 sts

Rows 69-70: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 49 sts

Row 71: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 51 sts

Rows 72-73: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts

Row 74: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 53 sts

Rows 75-76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.

Row 77: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in ea of the next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 58 sts

Rows 78-79: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts

Row 80: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 63 sts

Rows 81-82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 63 sts

Row 83: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp) 4 times. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts

Rows 84-85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts

Row 86: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 16 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts

Rows 87-88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 73 sts

Row 89: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts

Rows 90-91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts

Row 92: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 83 sts

Rows 93-94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts

Row 95: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 88 sts

Rows 96-97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts

Row 98: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 93 sts

Rows 99-100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 93 sts

Row 101: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 98 sts


Rows 102-103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts

Row 104: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 103 sts

Rows 105-106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 103 sts

Row 107: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 108 sts

Rows 108-109: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 108 sts

Row 110: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 113 sts

Rows 111 – 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 113 sts

Row 113: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 118 sts

Rows 114 – 115: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 118 sts

Row 116: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 123

Rows 117 – 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 123 sts

Row 119: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 128 sts

Rows 120-121: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 128 sts

Row 122: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 133 sts

Rows 123-124: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 133 sts

Row 125: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 138 sts

Rows 126-127: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 138 sts

Row 128: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 143 sts

Rows 129-130: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 143 sts

Row 131: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 148 sts

Rows 132-133: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 148 sts

Row 134: TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 153 sts

Rows 135 – 151: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 153 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Hood

Fold the large triangle down the center length so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other and the wrong sides are out.

Using stitch markers, count from the opening of the hood (the long side) 33 rows down on each side. Mark the 33rd row on each side.

With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, make a whip stitch seam starting at the point of the hood and seaming toward the opening of the hood.

Seam the hood until you reach the rows marked with stitch markers. Cut yarn. Turn your hood inside out so that the right sides are facing out again. This leaves 33 rows left unseamed on either side.

Shortened Hood pictured above

How did I get the number of rows to leave unseamed? It’s (8+8) to account for the small angled part on each side of the front panel, plus (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then (25- 8 = 17) to cover the portion of the top of the back panel not already covered by the cap of the sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded up to 66 to get an whole number when I halved it – so 33 rows left unseamed on either side of the hood.

The hood then is seamed to the collar of the garment (once all sleeves and bodice have been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching the points of the hood opening indicated by the red dots to the beginning of the collar on the front, also indicated by red dots.

Seam the hood around the collar opening, matching stitch for stitch.

Front Border and Closures

We’re almost done! Next up is to use four rows of LDC to add a border across the entire front opening, beginning with the hem, working up the opening of the garment, going around the edge of the hood, and working back down the other side of the front opening. After the third row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the buttons. For traditional buttonholes, stop to mark the placement after the second row.

Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of the skirt border rows.

Ch 3.

Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1 LDC in the side of each row across the next wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side of each row across the front panel, waist band, and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each LDC of the skirt border.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1. Traditional buttonholes, mark placement here.

Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2. Loop buttonholes, mark placement here.

Close-up of LDC border

Mark where your buttons will be on one side, and mark an equidistant space on the other side of the border for where you will place your loops or buttonholes. I began with one button/closure on the top and bottom edge of the waist band, then used this measurement (17 sts between each placement) to space the other buttons. I made five button placements total.

Once your button placements have been marked, begin the rest of the rows.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you reach a button/closure marker. If you are on the button side, keep working LDC’s. If you are on the closure side, there are two options: You can chain a couple stitches and skip over working a couple stitches, which creates a buttonhole within the band and a tighter closure. I opted to use a loop closure for the small, which leaves the front a little more open when buttoned.

If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big enough to fit the button through, then slip stitch in the same stitch. Continue working LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain loop at any point where a closure is marked.

If making traditional buttonholes, stop LDC and chain one before a marked stitch. Skip marked stitch and resume LDC until you reach the next marked stitch, repeat.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Stopping to chain a loop closure

Traditional buttonholes

After finishing the final border row, use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach each button at the marked location on the opposite side of the closures.

Weave in all loose ends. You may want to add the Corset Back Lacing, Pockets, or Belt Tie options available for this garment too!

Happy Magicking!
-MF

Fox Claw Elf Coat

The Elf Coat Tunisian crochet pattern is definitely my most popular design recently, and it’s undergone a series of updates and expansions since it was first released for free here on my blog in 2019. The first regular sizes – Small, Medium, and Large – were all released separately as individual blog posts, getting posted as soon as I had finished drafting and testing the written pattern.

These first 3 sizes (along with all the most recent updates) are also available gathered together as one ad-free, downloadable, printable PDF crochet pattern which can be purchased from my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Store!

Back then I ended up posting the size Large pattern before I ever finished the actual coat itself! Demand was so high, that as soon as I completed the front panels, back panel, and drafted the first half of the sleeve, I released the Large size pattern without any of the fancy finished photography that I like to accompany πŸ˜‰ Today we are remedying that with the help of Christina Persephone Tedrow, who agreed to model my recently finished piece in what turned out to be a very kickass and fun photoshoot. Keep reading for more info about the latest progress on this design and examples of this tricksy coat in action!

I have been naming each of these Elf Coats according to my vision for their personalities, indulging my love for character creation which helps me dream up interesting ways to show off my product. This coat, dubbed “Fox Claw,” was always intended to manifest the spirit of the fox, with it’s subtle orange and cream hues mixed with brownish lavender. Also, I just really love foxes – an interest shared by my friend Persephone here, which is why I was intent on having her as my model for this piece!

A bit about my model, who is also an independent businesswoman like myself: Persephone is one of the best body piercers in the business; she co-owns and -operates Fox & Crow Body Modifications in Evansville, Indiana, and updates on her business and openings frequently from her Facebook Page, the shop website, and from @PersephonePiercing on Instagram. If you are interested in high quality body art, also check out the shop’s Instagram page @foxandcrow.evansville !

Also worth mentioning is the amazing handmade 25-yard dance skirt modeled underneath the coat, made by Painted Lady Emporium.

It’s probably a good thing that I didn’t initially finish the size large Elf Coat which I had started back when first writing the pattern, because it didn’t take long to discover that the original Elf Coat needed a few tweaks. I used this piece to help me work out what needed changed in the design of the sleeves, and to draft a larger hood as many people had problems with the hood coming out small. These updates are listed and explained in my recent post on the blog here.

I also just had to invent a few new tricks involving a belt tie and pockets – the Fox Claw elf coat features both! The pockets here are inset, which means they are mostly hidden from the outside (they are set a little bit too far back as well… whoops! Next time I’ll measure!) This garment is also a little longer on the front & back panels than the normal Elf Coat, from adding extra rows at the beginning of the panels, giving about 2-2.5″ more in length to the coat – perfect for the taller model I had in mind.

And yet, after all the stitches and panels and tweaks and extras (and coats and questions and emails and testing and measuring and math), the Elf Coat design is still being developed! I had a lot of requests for this design in Plus Sizes, which I was very excited about offering but couldn’t get accomplished without a lot more work. So when I was ready, I set about drafting the written pattern for XL and 2XL – I discovered that given the way the design increases by using the base number of panels, the 2XL size is actually a bit oversized and would extend to cover 3XL as well! Currently, the Plus Sizes version of this design is being tested by a team of awesome people willing to help me make some elfy magic and I really hope with their assistance I can get it released by late summer or early autumn.

If you have more questions about this design, I recommend checking out the Elf Coat FAQ page that I’ve written up – and if you want to see more awesome Elf Coats and other projects inspired by Morale Fiber designs, I’ll refer you to our really sweet and supportive Facebook Group, the Magic Fantastic Crochet Atelier!

And if you REALLY love fox themed goodies, I also have a couple more designs for you to peruse…

-MF ❀

Elf Coat Updates

I’ve been working super hard since fall to expand, update, and improve my popular Elf Coat design and today I’m so pleased to announce that I have rolled out the updates for the new Elf Coat Pattern regular sizes (version: 2.0)!

All of these updates have been applied to both the FREE blog versions of the pattern and to the purchasable PDF version, and the links to all of these can be found on the FAQ page for this design πŸ™‚ Or keep reading to see what the updates entail!

These new updates include a re-shaped sleeve portion, which fixes some of the bunching issues that were occuring in the armpit area of the old style sleeve. I moved the decreases to the center of the row so that the sleeve follows the downward curve of the shoulder more naturally:

The old style of Hood also needed some work (and the Half Hood even MORE work) – so the Hood has been expanded and updated so that both styles of hood are plenty roomy and big enough, with notes on how to modify!

Honestly though, this pattern was in desperate need of something brand new : POCKETS!! Thanks to some help from fellow crocheter Tirzah, a basic pocket pattern was developed and then implemented in two different styles: Afterthought Pocket (applied to the outside) and Inset Pocket (hidden in the waistband)!

Photo courtesy of Tirzah Norton-Shantie


The pockets were absolutely necessary for carrying magical items, woodland treasures, and sedition – but I thought with the larger sizes being kind of oversized, there needed to be a belt option too, for extra cinching capacity.

Size Large, finished & laid out for blocking

Of course, all the extras are included in the PDF pattern file as part of the written pattern and are available in free pattern format on my blog via the links I mentioned at the beginning of the post. I’ll have to make a “deluxe” Elf Coat at some point for myself so that I can include all the options mentioned here on one coat – not forgetting that sweet corset back lacing option…)

Last but certainly not least, I have paid to get this pattern professionally translated into Spanish! I was lucky enough to find a great Spanish translator to work with who speedily took care of all of my new Elf Coat updates and created a beautiful PDF pattern file available for purchase in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store.

I’ve still got some work to do with this design, including getting that neatly finished Large Size properly modeled and photographed, and the Plus Sizes are currently in the testing phase meaning that more updates will be coming soon for the expanded sizing! You know what I always say…

Until Morale Improves, the Crocheting Will Continue!

-MF ❀

Elf Coat Pockets

Update! : To see all available sizes of the FREE Elf Coat pattern as well as all the add-ons to the design, please visit the Elf Coat FAQ page for links!

One thing my popular Elf Coat Tunisian Crochet Pattern really needed was some pockets! We all love to have a place to stash our woodland treasures, quest items, and sedition, so I’ve provided here a tutorial on how to create & apply both “Afterthought” pockets – easy and applied on the outside after finishing the coat – or “Inset” pockets, which are more advanced and are placed on the inside of the coat through an opening created at the waistband. All the same pattern specs such as gauge, hook size, and yarn from the original pattern (linked above) can be applied here, so let’s get right on into the instructions!

Pockets (Make 2 for Afterthought pockets- Make 4 for Inset pockets)

Pocket pattern developed from design by Tirzah Norton-Shantie – thanks Tirzah! 😊

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To add pockets to the outside of the garment, create 2 matching pieces and sew them on after the coat is finished. To create inset pockets, make 4 matching pieces from the pattern below, then follow Inset Pocket Waistband instructions.

Ch. 19

Row 1: Pick up a loop from ea of the next 18 ch sts. RP. – 19 sts

Row 2: TKS in the next 8 sts, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp.  TKS in the next 9 sts. RP.  -21 sts

Row 3-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts

Row 11: TKS dec over the next 2 sts, TKS in next 7 sts, TKS inc in next sp, TKS in next st. TKS inc in next sp, TKS in next 7 sts. TKS dec over next 2 sts, TKS in last st. RP. – 21 sts

Row 12-16: TKS in ea st across. RP – 21 sts

Row 17: Repeat Row 11

Row 18-26: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts

Row 27-29: Rpt Row 11
Cut yarn and tie off.

If working outside / afterthought pockets, then work the following LDC rows onto the top of each pocket. Outside pockets can be sewn on after construction.

tirzahpocket

Photo courtesy of Tirzah Norton-Shantie

 If working inset pockets, the LDC rows will be worked later so skip them for now.

Row 30-31 (LDC ROWS): Attach yarn to the top edge of the pocket piece. Ch 3 (does not count as first st). 1 LDC in the same st and in ea st across, inserting hook through each stitch as if to TKS. – 19 sts.

Inset Pocket – Waistband

If working inset pockets, complete 4 pocket pieces (without the LDC rows) and seam each pair together with the wrong sides facing, leaving top open.

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To leave an opening at the waistband for inset pockets, there are two choices. The easier option is to complete the entire waistband as instructed and leave a 19-stitch long opening on each side of the garment when seaming together the waistband and the bottom of the Front & back panels.

The more advanced option is to work a set-in pocket in the middle of the waistband. To do so, familiarize yourself with both the Foundation Tunisian Technique here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haU59Ss8Hsw&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJGbejoOm&index=2

And with the β€œAdding Length” technique which utilizes Foundation Tunisian, instructions here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bsg54HL156M&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJGbejoOm&index=7

When working the waistband mark off where you will place your inset pockets on either side, then create a 19-stitch long Foundation Tunisian chain at that place (detailed in tutorial photos below). Resume regular TKS until reaching the other pocket point, then repeat for that opening. Return Pass as normal, then work the rest of the rows as normal.

Working Tunisian Foundation in the middle of the waistband for an inset pocket:

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TKS until reaching the portion you wish to leave open for inset pocket.

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Insert hook into the back of the next st – under the loop highlighted in green.

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Draw up a loop from this stitch to begin your Foundation Tunisian chain. Complete 19 Tunisian Foundation stitches.

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Once foundation length is complete, skip the appropriate number of stitches on the row below and resume TKS as normal.

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Once the entire waistband is complete, locate your two openings. With the two seamed-together pockets, sew the pocket openings into the opening created in the waistband or at the bodice/waistband seam.

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Insert pocket envelope into opening

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Align the edges and whip stitch together with tapestry needle and yarn.

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Attach new yarn and work the Linked Double crochet (Rows 30-31) over the bottom seam of the pocket, working through both the garment layer and the bottom layer of the pocket. Seam this row up the side of the pocket when complete, overlapping the top to hide the opening.

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View of the inset pocket from the inside of the coat.

Now, go fill your pockets! πŸ™‚
-MF

Elf Coat Belt Tie

Update! : To see all available sizes of the FREE Elf Coat pattern as well as all the available add-ons to the design, please visit the Elf Coat FAQ page for links!

Along with the new updates I’m implementing for my popular Elf Coat Pattern is this quick little addition for a belted-waist tie, perfect for those that don’t want to mess with buttons (or need some extra cinching!). All the same pattern specs such as Tunisian Hook size, yarn, and gauge from the original pattern (linked above) can be applied to this belt tie, so let’s get right on into the pattern πŸ™‚

Belt Tie (Optional, Make 2)

This pattern makes a ~21” tie about 2” wide, but you can make longer and/or wider ties depending on your needs by adding extra rows and/or foundation stitches. Ties are sewn into the side seams after construction.

One completed belt tie.

Ch 10.

Row 1: Pick up a lp from each of the next 9 ch sts. RP – 10 sts

Rows 2 – 90: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 10 sts

Row 91: TKS decrease over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 4 sts. TKS decrease over the next 2 sts. TKS in the last st. RP. – 8 sts

Row 92: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in the next 2 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the last st. RP. – 6 sts

Row 93: TKS dec over the next 2 sts twice. TKS in the last st. RP. – 4 sts

Row 94: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the last st. RP. – 3 sts.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Using a tapestry needle and yarn, sew the tie into the side seam at each side, RS facing.

Hope you enjoy!
-MF

Pattern Gallery: Magical Coat Collection

One of my secret disappointments in life is knowing that no matter how fast I work, I’ll never make all the projects I want to. This is mostly because I want to make practically everything! There are so many talented designers coming up with beautiful things and it’s all accessible via the deep magic of the web.

Most of my time is spent maintaining Morale Fiber, crocheting, answering e-mails, designing – and so I don’t get to take much time out to make other people’s patterns, but I keep a hearty collection of ideas and other patterns via Ravelry, Etsy, and Pinterest! So when the members of the Magic Fantastic Crochet Atelier frequently asked after an Elf Coat style sweater that wasn’t in Tunisian crochet, I was ready to do another pattern gallery for easy searching. It’s my great pleasure to unveil the Magical Coat Collection today ❀

Below you’ll find all the magical style crochet coat patterns (most of them AREN’T TUNISIAN) I’ve loved over the years, along with a bit of information on each and links to the pages where they can be purchased – Enjoy ❀

Magical Coat Collection

  1. Serged Dream Coat by Stephanie Pokorny of Crochetverse:
    This amazing sweater coat shares the same inspiration source as my Elf Coat, the wonderful recycled sweater work of Katwise! This gorgeous coat is made in easy half double crochet stitches and features an Easy Fit size and pattern changes for up to 3X size, and Stephanie’s gallery of examples is (as usual) incredibly colorful, unique and inspiring. Just try to look at this coat without dreaming up your own amazing color scheme to try – bet you can’t!

2. Titania Pixie Jacket by Efilly Designs
I absolutely adore this fittingly named Pixie Jacket, which features regular crochet stitches (not Tunisian) and creates a tailored bodice and an flattering cinched waist. The adorable short skirt really tops off this enchanting piece! Sizes come in Small – XLarge ❀

3. Glenda’s Hooded Cardigan by Glenda Bohard-Avila
This one has been around for a while, long enough for me to have actually managed to make it! This lovely one-size crochet pattern features simple, clear instructions and notes for how to modify the garment to create different sizes. Worked in regular double crochet. I loved making this in a sleeveless rainbow version and the buyer was thrilled with the result πŸ™‚ Great for beginners and those who want a magical look without all the complicated seams.

4. Boreal Coat by Sylvie Damie
This coat is the perfect option for a magical coat with lots of impact but few seams or piecing together! Worked in regular double crochet, this is a top-down one piece crochet coat aptly named for it’s lovely waves of color in the original example. I’ve admired this one for years! Available in sizes XS-XL.

5. Pixie Coat Tutorial by Earth Tricks
A long-time favorite designer of mine, Earth Tricks uses measurement-based tutorial writing to explain how to create your own magical, unique pixie coat in regular double crochet! Rather than using set stitch counts, this is a more free-style explanation of how to work this design based on gauge and measurements, so it’s fantastic for more seasoned crocheters who want something flexible and inspiring to create! I just love all her examples on the Ravelry page ❀ ❀

6. Open Spaces Coat by Sylvie Damie
Another from this prolific designer! I couldn’t resist the chain length spaces put in this coat to give it a lovely magic profile and lots of swing – all while using super bulky yarn making it very quick to crochet! Worked in regular double crochet, and available in sizes XS-XL.

7. Mountain Magic Cardigan by ColoradoShire
This fancy fantastical longline cardigan uses regular single and double crochet, plus edging the garment in beautiful crocodile stitch scales. Croc stitch is a particular favorite of mine so I immediately added this design to my list – great for intermediate crocheters looking for something simple, fun, and different. Sizes Small – XL and worked in easy to get #4 weight yarn.

8. Priestess Coat by Morale Fiber
My newest Tunisian Coat design features Tunisian simple stitch (the easiest one to learn!) and an overall construction that’s just a *bit* less fussy than my Elf Coat. This robe-style coat is worked in Lion Brand Shawl in a Ball, a lightweight #4 yarn available in dreamy colors, with optional faux fur trim and a rounded-back hood for those that don’t care for the pointed hoods. This coat is a great option if you want to learn Tunisian but find the Elf Coat pattern too daunting to start with – and it’s available in sizes XS- 2XL!

9. Flower of Life Oversize Hooded Jacket by Jen Xerri (Starlily Creations)
Squee! You know I just HAD to feature a Starlily creation in this collection, as she’s one of the fastest growing crochet influencers out there and just an incredibly sweet person to boot. This jacket pattern is another that I actually own in my pattern collection – I haven’t worked it fully yet but I’ve looked through it as a reference and it’s very well written and clear with lovely tutorial photos! The Flower of Life design is another great pattern worked with regular non-tunisian stitches (it’s easier than it looks!) and the central back motif is surrounded by rounds of interesting but not too complex stitch patterns! Sizing is flexible, garment is oversized or undersized to create a jacket or a vest ❀

10. Elf Coat by Morale Fiber (also available for free right here on this blog)
Ok, both of my contributions to this list have been Tunisian crochet (the rest aren’t though!!) when I created this list specifically for those inquiring about non-tunisian magical coat patterns BUT! I did need to include the original design of mine that inspired this post, and here’s my plea: If you are daunted by learning Tunisian Crochet, check out my YouTube Playlist containing all the videos of the techniques needed to learn to make this Elf Coat. I know it’s a lot different than regular crochet, but Tunisian is a great skill to add and in my opinion, it’s a super unique and amazing stitch style that absolutely can’t be mimicked either in regular crochet or even in knitting (which it can look so very much like that it fools actual knitters). I know you can to buy a special hook and everything, but perhaps you’d like to just try it out using my clever wine cork stopper rig? That way, you can try it without buying any special equipment! This pattern currently comes in sizes Small, Medium, and Large – but I will be working on a Plus Sizes expansion as soon as I can πŸ™‚

I hope you found this list of designs both helpful and inspiring, and please consider purchasing some of these designs to support the people who created them so they can keep making awesome stuff. Happy Magicking!

Pictured above: The Shaman Coat, which is also Tunisian and I sorta snuck this one in under the radar πŸ˜‰

-MF

Priestess Coat

Today I am excited to debut my third Tunisian crochet coat design – the Priestess Coat! To be honest, I did not think that I would ever publish a written pattern for this design, the first draft of which appeared in my blog 3 years ago.

It was originally an attempt at a fuller, more feminine coat, based off of my already-existing Shaman Coat written pattern. Deciding that I needed to start from the ground up to get what I really wanted, the redesign eventually led to the Elf Coat, which is totally different in appearance and construction.

First draft of the Priestess Coat pictured, in Lion Brand “Amazing” and Lion Brand “Pelt” yarns

I had posted some pictures of this original draft (above), and linked to them when I talked about the process of dreaming up the Elf Coat, and do you know what? Lots of people actually followed that link, and read the original post, and still wanted a pattern for the first attempt! So many people asked over the years that I decided to go ahead and just finally write a full pattern for that coat as well!

What can I say? I’m a people-pleaser at heart πŸ˜€

With the help of a stellar team of pattern testers, the Priestess Coat design has been written for SIX sizes and includes all the usual bells and whistles – read on for more details or get the pattern directly from my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern Store. Scroll all the way to the bottom to hear about the BIG SALE!

Priestess Coat Tunisian Crochet Pattern

Create a prismatic rainbow robe or a shimmering mantle dark as a raven’s feather with the imaginative Priestess Coat, a full-length Tunisian Crochet pattern written for six sizes (XS-2XL). Expanding on the ideas of my simpler Shaman Coat design, this all-new pattern combines the ease of construction with flattering flair using corset lacing and graceful pointed panels.

You’ll want to find any reason to wear this glorious garment – the monkishly wide, lightly flared sleeves are great for tucking in nippy hands while the hood keeps the neck and head toasty. Easy corset lacing in the back creates structure and adds interest, leading down to the stars of the show – the diamond panels, stitched individually into openings left in the pattern of the main coat!

Though it looks complex, the Priestess Coat is crocheted with just Tunisian Simple Stitch and a few other basic techniques. The pattern includes written instructions for sizes XS-2XL, detailed tutorial photographs, schematics, and how-to’s for all the special stitches needed to create this magical mantle.

The PDF files also include a Tunisian Primer for those that have never worked Tunisian crochet before, and links to my video resources made specifically for my Tunisian coat patterns!

Materials Needed:

Main Hook: 6.50 mm Tunisian hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) – straight Tunisian single ended hook or single-ended Tunisian cabled hook is fine
Border & Laces : 5.50 mm regular crochet hook
Fur Trim: 11.5 mm regular crochet hook
or sizes needed to obtain gauge

Main Yarn: Lion Brand Shawl in a Ball (#4 weight, 150 g / 481 yds, Cotton/Acrylic): 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins, 1900 – 2900 yds total
Accent Yarn: Lion Brand Go for Faux Thick & Quick (#7 weight, 120 g / 24 yd, Polyester): 2-3 skeins (48-72 yds total)
Yarn needle, Tapestry needle, Scissors
Length of Ribbon / Yarn / Fabric (for back lacing)
Buttons or lacing for the front (optional)

Written in English using US crochet terminology.

All my life I’ve loved mythology, history, and fantasy – so of course it comes out in my art, as I express whatever spirit I’m trying to capture in fabric. Whether it’s priestesses and valkyries or shamans and tricksters – I hope it’s a story that empowers people. People tell stories and stories change people; I want to tell the right ones so I can help change the world, even if it’s only a tiny part of it.

So the release of this pattern I’m offering a rare BOGO deal through my Ravelry Pattern Store only – buy the Priestess Coat pattern, get the Shaman Coat pattern for free with the code “STORIES” for the first full WEEK of the new pattern debut (through the end of 10/22). Just put them both in your cart and enter the code during checkout! Since I consider the Shaman Coat the simpler, beginner sister to the Priestess Coat, I wanted to make sure everyone had a chance to access both patterns in case they wanted to practice with the easier one first!


You can also get the 2-pattern Priestess Coat / Shaman Coat bundle in my Etsy Shop and save $2, or save $3 with the 3-pattern bundle which includes the Elf Coat PDF as well. These bundles are everyday deals and aren’t going anywhere! Also, don’t forget about my multi-pattern discount codes – listed in the header of my Etsy Shop and in every paid pattern description in my Ravelry Store:

Pattern Store Discount Codes:
15% off of 2: MF15OFF
20% off of 3-4: MF20OFF
25% off of 5-6: MF25OFF
30% off of 7: MF30OFF

I say this a lot but I could never do my art without those that buy from me and support me, so THANK YOU!! From the bottom of my heart – and stay tuned because my gratitude is alchemically turned into more patterns for you! πŸ˜‰ ❀

-MF

Some costume credits go to two of my favorite shops! The comfy stretch knit dark blue dress I’m wearing is the Fit & Flair dress from Elven Forest Creations on Etsy.

The gorgeous Luna Moth hair clip is from The Forest Fae, find their Etsy shop here.

I highly recommend both shops!

P.S – My brother once asked (in actual curiosity) what I did for my business besides twirl around in fields. πŸ˜€ The answer is A LOT of different stuff – geometry and math and accounting and graphic design and writing and editing and troubleshooting – the twirling is only about 5% of it. But MAN it is the best 5%!

Elf Coat FAQ

I am in love with the fact that my Elf Coat pattern has been so popular since I released it over a year ago! I’ve seen many wonderful creations and talked to tons of great people and it’s just….. so gratifying. And humbling.

Anyway, before I get too schmaltzy, I also get a lot of questions and so I created this resource to help answer those more readily πŸ™‚

Where Can I Find the Elf Coat Pattern?

This crochet pattern can be found for free on my blog at the following links:
Elf Coat Size Small
Elf Coat Size Medium
Elf Coat Size Large
Elf Coat Sizes XL – 2XL/3XL
Elf Coat Corset Lacing (for all sizes)
Elf Coat Pockets (all sizes)
Elf Coat Belt Tie (all sizes)
Elf Coat Pointed Pockets (all sizes)

This pattern can also be purchased as a downloadable, ad-free PDF document! Get the first 3 sizes through my Ravelry Store or Etsy Shop here. Get the separate Plus Sizes pattern in my Ravelry Store or Etsy Shop here. Both PDF’s include the full pattern instructions as well as the instructions for the corset lacing, belt tie, and regular pockets!

How Do I Size Up?

Currently this pattern is only written for Adult sizes Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, and 2XL/3XL. Check the notes that occur before many sections of the design to see what kind of math I used and/or how to alter the size of the coat by changing the gauge, adding or subtracting rows, etc – I included a lot of notes about modifying the written sizes to customize the fit as well πŸ™‚

Do You Offer This Pattern in Children’s Sizes?

Not at the moment! I’m taking another break from developing this design, so I don’t currently have plans to create a Youth or Children’s size – however, you can try to get a smaller size coat with the right proportions by changing your hook and yarn size to get a smaller gauge πŸ™‚ I don’t know what sizes to use for this, but others have tried and successfully done it!

Can I Make This in Regular Crochet / Knit ?

The Elf Coat is made with Tunisian Crochet, specifically Tunisian Knit stitch. Since many people do not know how to do Tunisian, I’ve had a lot of inquiries about working it in either a regular crochet stitch or a regular knit stitch. Since the Elf Coat relies solely on 1 type of stitch, made in rows with only increases and decreases for shaping, it is easy to translate into regular crochet/knit stitches using a 1:1 translation for stitch counts (as long as you match the gauge) – omit the Return Pass (since you are not doing Tunisian) and Reverse the instructions every other row (because you’ll be working back and forth instead of in the same direction every row like Tunisian does).

For crochet, it’s proven difficult (from what I’ve heard) to match the gauge EXACTLY to the one given for the pattern, but with some engineering I’ve seen folks turn out Elf coats in regular single crochet that look great!

I’ve also seen several great examples in regular knitting, which produces a slightly flowier, looser and thinner garment. Again, a 1:1 translation (stitch for stitch, inc for inc, dec for dec) can be followed, minding that every alternate row is reversed and purled instead of knitted.

I have to say, though, that it’s really worth learning Tunisian Crochet to make this piece! I personally think there’s nothing quite like it πŸ™‚ And it’s not really as unfamiliar as you might think. Which leads to the next few FAQs:

What Kind of Tunisian Hook will I need?

Personally, I have used a regular aluminum straight Tunisian hook, 13″ long, non-cabled, to make all three Small, Medium, and Large Elf Coats and not had a problem fitting all the stitches on. It does get a little cramped at the waistband, but I just cram on the stitches and roll with it πŸ˜‰ However, depending on the yarn you’re using or what you’re comfortable working with, you may want to have a Tunisian hook equipped with a cable extension to work this coat to avoid overcrowding the hook.

Do You Have a Video Tutorial for This Pattern?

No, I don’t currently have a video for the Elf Coat Pattern – although I AM rolling out a series of video tutorials for all of the Tunisian Crochet techniques used in this pattern on my YouTube Channel right now!

Many people have asked about a full video Elf Coat pattern, and I understand that there are a lot of people out there who really don’t like reading written patterns. And though I never say never, I’m pretty sure I won’t be making a full video tutorial for this pattern. I’d really love to – but I do not plan on it. I’m a one-woman business and I just can’t make the time to create all options for everything ❀ Even though I wish I could. Thanks for understanding!

Can I use β€œX” yarn with this pattern / What hook should I use?

The answer to this question always begins with β€œcheck your gauge.” Technically you can make any pattern with any size hook and yarn if your gauge matches the gauge given in the pattern. Now, gauge can be tricky and there are other things that contribute to the general look, feel, and function of a handmade garment, but the simplest place to start when asking β€œcan I make it with this yarn and hook?” is to test your gauge. I do have a “Field Guide” which explains crochet gauge and other yarn behaviors that factor in when deciding which hooks and yarn to use for a project, so please check out that resource if you are unfamiliar with finding gauge and/or substituting yarn! πŸ™‚

This pattern works best with DK / #3 weight yarn, or with lighter #4 weight yarns (One ply yarns like Unforgettable work best for this weight category – picture below). I don’t recommend it in something like a #4 weight multi-ply acrylic (think RHSS) because it’s so hard to get the right gauge with those yarns, but some people have achieved it!

If you need yarn ideas, you can search the yarn recommended in the pattern through the yarnsub.com database and it will give you yarn with similar weight and characteristics as options for substitutes. It’s one of my favorite yarn resources.

Is This Pattern Available in Other Languages?

Currently some sizes are available for FREE in Dutch via the awesome Een Mooi Gebaar , along with a couple other popular patterns of mine!

I also have a Spanish Translation PDF pattern for purchase in my Ravelry Store (included with the English language purchase) or my Etsy Shop (available as a separate Spanish-only purchase).

Do You Know That Someone is Stealing Your Photos and Pretending to Sell Your Design?

I do. It’s not awesome, but I am aware of it. Around this time last year, a foreign scam/knockoff website started advertising heavily to my fanbase pretending to sell my Elf Coat (using an image they stole from me). A LOT of people messaged me about it, thank you so much!! I can’t believe so many people recognized my work and cared enough to rush to my defense!

That being said, there’s not much I can do, so I just ignore it. Many people have suggested that I watermark my images, but for various reasons I prefer not to.

Do You Offer the Real Elf Coat for Sale?

I don’t, unfortunately! But I highly encourage you to shop around on Etsy or among friends to find someone to make it for you if you don’t crochet. I’m so busy designing patterns anymore that I’ve stopped taking any kind of actual crochet commission work. It’s possible that I may end up making one or two for pattern testing or for fun in the future, and if that happens I will probably offer them directly for sale via my Facebook page – so if you would like the chance to buy one, make sure you follow me for updates!

Thank you so much to everyone who has shown interest in this design and in my other pieces – this elf gal is charged up and ready to create some more new designs for you guys, and it’s all thanks to the amazing people who support my art ❀ We are in this together ❀

-MF

This isn’t the Elf Coat, I just love this picture. (Click so see the Feather & Scale Halter Top design)

Elf Coat Pattern PDF

Update! : To see all available sizes of the FREE Elf Coat pattern plus all the add-ons to the design, please visit the Elf Coat FAQ page for links!

It’s finally time! The instructions for the Elf Coat, including all three adult sizes (Small, Medium, and Large) and the tutorial for the corset back lacing is all gathered and published in one downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF!

Without further ado, here is the pattern now available in my Ravelry Store and my Etsy shop!

I’m so grateful for everyone that has supported and followed my work ❀ I really couldn’t feel more blessed, having had so many people give me kind words, feedback, and of course pictures of the awesome things they’ve made!

ONE quick answer to a question a lot of people have asked – what about more sizes? The answer is that I will probably EVENTUALLY write more sizes for the Elf Coat such as Plus Sizes, but for now I am going to take a much needed break from working on this pattern πŸ™‚ I’ve been laboring over it for literal years, and though I love this design as one of my most precious brain children, I need to work on other things for a while. You can see what I’m up to by liking and following my Facebook Page or find out what others are making with my designs by joining the MF crochet group, the Magic Fantastic Crochet Atelier!
(UPDATE 7/21: The Elf Coat Plus Size pattern is now available! Please see the link here for those sizes or click the big link at the top of the page to get the links to all currently available sizes ❀ )

And now, read on for the pattern spiel!

This elegant fantasy-inspired sweater coat features an A-line silhouette with a curling, pointed geometric hem shape inspired by flower blossoms, delicate pointed bell sleeves, and of course a long and ample pointed elf hood. The variegated yarn creates dazzling prisms of color across the separately worked pieces of the coat.

Featuring Tunisian crochet in a stitch that mimics knitting, the texture and weave of this coat is both sleek and warm. The Tunisian technique creates a tightly constructed fabric that drapes nicely while also holding a tailored shape that fits and flatters.

Lots of inspiration for this came from recycled sweater artist Katwise, and you should definitely check out her website at www.katwise.com !

Materials: 
6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook 
King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic – color shown is Autumn) – 10, 13, 16 skeins 
*OR*
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 13, 16, 20 skeins 

Sizes: 
Small, Medium, Large. 
Pattern instruction changes are given in for each size, in this order. 

Finished Measurements: 
Waist: ~34β€³, 40”, 45” 
Bust: ~34β€³, 40”, 45” 
Hip: ~36β€³, 42”, 47” 
Sleeve: 22β€³ (measured armpit to hem), 22”, 22” 
Length: ~37β€³, 

Pattern written in US crochet terminology. Language is English.

❀ MF