Tree of Life Mandala

Who doesn’t love trees?! Besides being one of the most successful life forms on Earth, trees are the lungs of our planet. Majestic and sometimes dangerous they are also, but I think one of the main reasons we humans have such a symbolic attachment to the Tree as a concept is that we tend to project ourselves onto them.

Gazing at the canopy – pictured in the Lotus Duster

With their roots-like-feet, their strong trunk torsos, and their reaching arms of branches, it’s easy to turn them into a metaphor against which we contrast our own sense of existence. They grow taller as they age, they occur in all environments, they group themselves together, and recent science has even discovered that they communicate with each other.

Ancient photo of me, up a tree, wearing the Woodsman’s Wife Ruana

For me, it has always seemed natural to speak with trees. And yeah… to hug them. 🙂 I’ve always felt that they had a Presence which ought to always be acknowledged and I’ve been drawn to tree and forest imagery my whole life. I was stoked when I found this adorable crocheted Tree of Life motif from 365 Crochet and instantly tried it out as a feature of one of my pixie belts. It’s quite an excellent little free pattern!

Pictured is Hickory, one of my original crocheted utility pocket belts. I have an in-depth tutorial series on how to make your own unique Pixie Pocket belt here on the blog and also available as a purchasable, ad-free PDF.

The Tree of Life concept occurs in several cultural stories. My familiarity with it came originally from Yggdrasil, the World Tree of Norse mythology that holds all the worlds from its roots to its branches. Since I’m so attached to this symbolism, I wanted to attempt my own crocheted version of the Tree of Life.

The Tree of Life mandala features an intricate central tree motif, worked in the round using a variety of crochet stitches. The intertwining branches are worked in layers, with double-treble stitches criss-crossing and forming the signature woven look of the Tree of Life symbolism. Though it looks complex, the central motif is easy when taken step by step, especially since the tutorial includes 50+ detailed tutorial photos with figure references to the written pattern!

Once I had honed my Tree pattern to satisfaction, I realized the mandala version would make a perfect dreamcatcher-style wall hanging and set about to providing this FREE tutorial for the project! You can also buy the downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF file for this crochet pattern from my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern Store.

I also hastened to create a video tutorial – you can find that for free here!

This one is made with Malabrigo Rios, which I am now hooked on.

I’ve got a few more concepts cooked up for this pretty little piece in the future that I’m very excited about 😉 So be sure to subscribe to my blog and follow me on Facebook!

Tree of Life Mandala Wall Hanging

Materials:
4.50 mm hook
#4 worsted weight yarn in solid color – I used Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton
#3 or #4 weight yarn in accent color – I used King Cole Riot DK for the rainbow Tree and Malabrigo Rios for the autumnal Tree.
1 14” bamboo or wood hoop (I used an embroidery hoop from the hobby store)
Scissors & Tapestry needle

Stitches and Techniques:
Magic Ring – A short tutorial can be found under this pattern on my blog.
Hdc – half double crochet
Ch – chain
Sl st – Slip Stitch
Sc – Single crochet
Dc – Double crochet
Tr – treble crochet (YO x 2, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 loops x 3)
Dtr – double treble crochet (YO x 3, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 loops x 4)

Gauge: Not critical. The trunk of the tree should be about 1.25 inches in width and the tree itself should be about 4.5 inches tall from root to top branch after Round 3.

Notes:
The outer yarn used to border the Tree of Life can be #3 or #4 weight. If using a thick and/or stiffer #4 weight, check to make sure your piece isn’t getting too big for the hoop. You may need to omit a round of solid Hdc – the mandala needs to stretch tightly over the hoop once finished.

Instructions

Make Magic Ring – fig. 1

Fig. 1

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first hdc), 12 hdc into the ring – fig.2. Join with a sl st in the first hdc of the round. Tighten the ring to close – fig.3

Fig. 2

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Rnd 2: Sl st in the next  st, 1 sc in the next st. (1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc) in the next st – fig. 4. 1 sc in the next st, sl st in ea of the next 2 sts – fig. 5. 1 sc in the next st, hdc in the next st. (1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc) in the next st. 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st. Sl st in the next st. – fig. 6

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Fig. 6

Rnd 3:  LIMBS: Sl st in the next 3 sts. – fig 7. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st – fig 8. Ch 2 – fig 9, 1 dc in the side of last dc. Ch 3 – fig 10. Slip stitch back down the side of the dc’s. (1st limb made) – fig 11. Sl st in the next st. *Ch 2 – fig 12, dc in the same st. (Ch 2, dc in the side of last dc) twice – fig 13. Ch 3. Slip stitch back down the sides of the dc’s, sl st in next st. – fig 14. (2nd limb made). Repeat from * for 3rd limb – fig. 15. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. Ch 2, 1 dc in the side of the last dc. Ch 3 – fig 16. Slip stitch back down the side of the dc’s (4th limb made) – fig 17. Sl st in the next 5 sts. – fig 18.

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Rnd 3 Ct’d: ROOTS: *Ch 2, dc in the same st. – fig 19, Ch 3 – fig 20, slip st down the side of the dc – fig 21. Sl st in the next st. Rpt from * 3 more times. – figs 22-24

Fig. 19

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Rnd 4: Sl st in the next 3 sts. Ch 5 – fig 25, sc in the ch-3 loop  at the top of the 1st limb – fig 26. Ch 3 – fig 27, double treble (dtr) in the middle of the 2nd limb – fig 2829. Ch 3 – fig 30, dtr in the middle of the 1st limb – fig 31. Ch 3, sc in the ch-3 loop at the top of the 2nd limb – fig 32. Ch 3, dtr in the middle of the 3rd limb – fig 33. Ch 3, dtr in the middle of the 2nd limb – figs 34-35. Ch 3, sc in the ch-3 loop at the top of the 3rd limb. Ch 3 – fig 36, dtr in the middle of the 4th limb – fig 40. Ch 3, dtr in the middle of the 3rd limb. Ch 3 – fig 41, sc in the ch-3 loop at the top of the 4th limb. Ch 5 – fig 42, sl st one st away from the base of the 4th limb. Sl st in the next 3 sts – fig 43.

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Fig. 25

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Fig. 27

Fig. 28 – YO 3 times to begin dtr

Fig. 29 – insert hook into the middle of 2nd limb, draw up a loop. (YO and draw through 2 loops) 4 times. Dtr made.

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Fig. 43

Rnd 5: Sl st up the ch sts on the side of the 1st root. Sl st into the ch-3 loop at the top – fig 44. Ch 3, (counts as first hdc + ch-1), hdc in the same space – fig 45. (Ch 3, 1 hdc in the next ch-3 loop. Ch 1, 1 hdc in the same sp) 3 times. Ch 8 – fig 46-47. (1 dc in the next ch-3 space between branches – fig 48, ch 2, 1 dc in the same space) 9 times – fig 49. Ch 8. Sl st in the 2nd ch of beginning ch-3 to join – fig 50.

Fig. 44

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Rnd 6 (Change color): With new yarn, join in the 5th ch-2 space of previous round – positioning your hook in the middle of the branches. Ch 2 – fig 51 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same space. (4 hdc in the next ch-2 space) 4 times – fig 52.  10 hdc in the next ch-8 space – fig 53. (1 hdc in the ch-1 space of the next root. 3 hdc in the next ch-3 space- fig 54.) 3 times. 1 hdc in the next ch-1 space. 10 hdc in the next ch-8 space – fig 55. (4 hdc in the next ch-2 space) 4 times. 3 hdc in the next space, join with a sl st to the first hdc of the rnd – fig 56. – 70 sts

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Fig. 51

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Fig. 56

Rnd 7: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 5 sts. 2 hdc in the next st – fig 57. (1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st – fig 58.– 80 sts

Fig. 57

Fig. 58

Rnd 8: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – fig 59 – 90 sts

Fig. 59

Rnd 9: Ch 1 (does not count), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – fig 60 -– 100 sts

Fig. 60

Rnd 10: Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch 1). Dc in the same st. (Sk next 2 sts, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc in the next st) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4.

Rnd 11: Sl st to the next ch-2 space. Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch 1). Dc in the same space. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the next space) around. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. – fig 61.

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Fig. 61

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for attaching – fig 62. Weave in other ends.

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Fig. 62

Attaching & Finishing

Using the long tail left from Round 11, thread yarn on a tapestry needle. Center your piece inside the hoop – fig 63.

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Fig. 63

Stitch the piece onto the hoop, making your needle pass around the hoop and under the last row of the piece, between the dc’s (not the chain spaces). Work the piece all the way around, adjusting tension and tightening as needed to create an even appearance. The piece will be stretched! – fig 64 – 66

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To make sure my tension is even, I like to cut another long strand of thread and go back over the piece in the opposite direction – fig 67. This is optional.

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Fig. 67

Border Round:
With new yarn, attach to a ch-2 space on Rnd 11. Working by inserting the hook under both the chain-2 space and under the hoop, YO and draw up a loop. Work 1 hdc around the hoop and the chain space. The entire border round works around the hoop – this can be a little tricky at first, but be patient! It gets easier. In the same chain space, work 1 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 1 dc, and 1 hdc – fig. 68. Sc between the next pair of dc’s – fig 69. *(1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc) in the next ch 2 space, 1 sc between the next 2 dc sts. Rpt from * around. – figs 70-71

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Join the final round with a slip stitch in the first hdc. Cut yarn and tie off, weave in all remaining ends. You could also add tassels, fringe, extra leaves (I have a good candidate, a free pattern for leaves), or charms to personalize your new Tree of Life wall hanging!

Thanks, trees. You guys are awesome.

Tree hugging in the Elf Coat

– MF

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T-Shirt Rug Tutorial

Here’s another project that fits firmly into the “tired of staring at it because it’s been sitting on my desk for over a year so I might as well finish it” category!

StonesonSand2

There’s no real reason that it took me so long to finish, other than I got continuously distracted by other projects and lost my momentum on it. It was the fourth crocheted t-shirt rug from this series that I posted a while ago, in which I allude to the method but don’t provide much of an explanation. Today I am remedying that!

But FIRST! Here’s how to make T-shirt yarn via Endlessly Inspired.

I got the idea of using yarn to crochet around the t-shirt strips from Pinterest (of course) but felt that I could make things a little more interesting by experimenting with stitch designs..
MerryPrankster2…. which was fun, but sometimes one desires a more mindless exercise. So I experimented with ducking the t-shirt yarn strip in front of and behind the stitch, and came up with a design that makes the strip form  eye-pleasing rings of bobbles or nubs, or in the case of my most recent rug, stones on sand.

StonesonSand5

Crocheting around the T-shirt yarn in this way is soooooo much easier, neater-looking, and more economical  than trying the crochet the t-shirt yarn itself. I always make my own t-shirt yarn, so it’s also better because it’s easy to switch from one ball to another with this method. So enough talk… how is it done?

Crocheted T-shirt Rug How-To

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You need:

A large amount of cotton or acrylic yarn (A skein of Caron One Pound usually gets the job done nicely, with some to spare)

T-shirt Yarn (I use home-made, but store bought works too!)

A 6.00 mm hook

Start by making a magic ring. 6 sc into the ring tightly. Sc into the first sc of the first round to begin a joinless, in-the-round crochet circle. *

*I will not be giving instructions for increases in the round because I’m making the assumption that the crocheter already knows how to handle this – just work them in the same proportion as you usually would or decide how many you need to keep it flat as you go. 

In the second round of stitching, hold the t-shirt yarn flat against the last row and start to stitch the single crochet over the tail of this yarn until you have worked 3-5 stitches or have anchored it securely. Once you have secured the t-shirt yarn, you will begin weaving it in and out of the sc stitches.

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This isn’t a picture of the second round, but you can see where I have begun the new strip by anchoring it within the sc stitching before I start weaving it in and out.

Continuing to work in the round (and adding increases where necessary), hold the t-shirt yarn to the back of your work and work a sc in the next stitch. Keep in mind that the t-shirt yarn should be completely to the back of the work so that the yarn is not held within the stitch at all.

*Tightening the sc after working it by holding the loop steady and pulling on your working yarn makes the rug nice and firm and helps the t-shirt yarn bobbles look neat.

Before you work the next stitch, bring the t-shirt yarn completely to the front of the work, so that you are working your next sc behind the t-shirt strand.

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Work the next sc, tighten it down if necessary, then return the t-shirt strand to the back of the work – this will wrap the t-shirt yarn around the stitch you just made, creating a little t-shirt bobble.

With the t-shirt yarn at the back, make another sc in the next stitch.

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Continue alternating holding the t-shirt yarn in front or back, until you get near the end of the strand or decide to change colors. Return the t-shirt yarn to the top of your work and work a series of several sc stitches OVER the yarn, so that it is trapped in the stitch again. Do this until the end is reached, then begin the next strand the same way.

I like to vary the proportion of bobbles in the front (i.e – bring the t-shirt yarn to the front every two stitches, every three stitches, etc) to provide visual interest, or alternate rounds of bobbles with rounds of t-shirt yarn carried along inside openwork stitches.

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T-shirt yarn carried inside openwork stitches (granny blocks in this case)

As I’ve mentioned before, carrying T-shirt yarn along while you crochet regular yarn is a lot easier on your hands than trying to crochet the t-shirt yarn itself!  And this way, there’s tons of variations you can try.

My rugs usually end up being somewhere between 32-45″, for use as small accent rugs or even table centerpieces (and if you use all cotton materials, really awesome hotpads are possible!)  Lately, I’ve been thinking more about making them specifically for use as djembe rugs for the drum-circle going type! This of course has nothing to do with the djembe I recently purchased after a drumming workshop.

StonesonSand4

Ain’t she pretty?

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Typical. I finally finish a project that I’ve been dragging my feet on, and I immediately want to start another.

-MF

The Best Crochet Washcloth

Crochet Washcloth 1

I’ve really been on a cotton kick because of the warm weather (and because cotton is great, as illustrated before), and I was all pumped up ready to do a blog post on crocheting a tunisian simple stitch washcloth out of some pretty blue cotton I’ve had lying around. And then this post from Purl Soho doing exactly what I wanted to do pops up on my Pinterest feed.

Well, hell. There’s really no reason to reinvent the wheel here. Or is there?

Reasons why Tunisian Simple Stitch is the ideal stitch for washcloths:

1. Two-sided: Tunisian simple stitch creates a smooth surface on one side of the work and a nubby, ridged surface (similar to garter stitch) on the other side. (The smooth side is pictured above, the nubby side is pictured below)

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Nubby scrubby goodness.

2. Tunisian simple stitch rows are compact and set close together- no gaping holes in the stitchwork. Unlike the first crochet waschloth I attempted, which was in double crochet in a large gauge – terrible idea. It wasn’t the kind of dense, solid material you want for a washcloth.

3. Tunisian creates a firm fabric that doesn’t like to stretch (unlike knitting). So you’re crochet that looks neat and firm when made stays that way even when used to scrub! Again, my first washcloth ended up looking more like a fishing net because I used double crochet and it stretched like crazy.

In the end, there are a lot of crochet washcloth patterns out there. Even the skein of Bernat Cotton DeLux I used sported a free pattern for a crochet washcloth – one I beg you not to attempt, for the love of solid, usable washcloths.

An offset single crochet, ch 1 mesh? Uh.. no.

An offset single crochet, ch 1 mesh? Uh.. no.

I used a 6.00 mm tunisian crochet hook, some cotton yarn (pictured above) and a 25 stitch long Tunisian simple stitch repeat. Note that Purl Soho has a good Tunisian simple stitch tutorial if you need a primer.

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The Purl Soho pattern uses Blue Sky Skinny Cotton. At which I laughed.

Blue Sky cotton at 14.50 a skein? For a washcloth? Uh… no.

There is so much affordable cotton yarn at the hobby stores and online – Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton is another of my favorites. You certainly don’t need to run out and buy boutique yarn for this kind of project.

Don’t have a tunisian hook? Fear not. Again, most of us don’t have Purl Soho budgets … some of us may not even want to spare the extra cash to get a special hook. The good news is that my washcloth is small enough to fit on a regular crochet hook with a stopper rigged up to the end.

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Necessity is the mother of invention and also it’s a good excuse to get wine.

You could use duct tape or rubber bands, too. Anything that stops your stitches from slipping off the end of your hook.

The Best Crochet Washcloth Pattern:

Materials: Bernat Handicrafter Cotton DeLux, or other worsted weight cotton. A coordinating color (optional), tapestry or yarn needle.

Hook: 6.00 mm tunisian hook or regular hook with a stopper.

Gauge: 4 stitches in tunisian simple stitch = 1″

Ch 25.

Row 1: (forward pass) draw up a loop from each chain stitch.

Row 2: (backward pass) Yo, draw through one loop. *Yo, draw through 2 lps) repeat to the end.

Row 3: Ch 1 (counts as first stitch of forward pass), draw up a loop through each stitch to the end.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 22 more times.

When last backward pass is complete, chain 10. Slip stitch at the base of the chain (hanging loop for washcloth is complete), cut yarn and tie off.

Attach contrasting yarn color, single crochet in each stitch or row edge around the entire washcloth , working 3 sc at each corner. Join with a slip stitch when round is complete.

For an extra border, slip stitch  in each stitch two rows in from the edge stitches around the entire washcloth. Cut yarn and tie off.

Weave in all ends. Congratulate yourself for not having spent $50 on a damn washcloth.

-MF

Pattern Gallery: Crocheted Baskets

Are you being crowded out of your own life by piles of junk? I know I was.

That point was driven home, in fact, when my closet shelf collapsed under the weight of my junk, spreading books and clothes and fabric aaaaaaaall over the bedroom floor. I knew it was time to cut down.

Messages of “simple living” and “de-clutter your closet” have been all the rage lately, with people living in garden sheds and owning three items with ninety-five different purposes.  To which I usually say “No goddamn thank you.”

I like complicated living, and piles of junk that I can make stuff out of, and clutter that I can just generally roll around in with an ecstasy of creative potential. But with the closet nearly caving in, I had to take at least one leaf out of the Simple Life Evangelists’ book.

I said goodbye to several garbage bags full of junk that day.

So the things that were left after this devastation of simplification got organized, inspiring the following gallery of patterns for things to put other things in.

Crochet Baskets

MiniBasket

Simple Crochet Mini Basket Pattern from Just Be Crafty – Anything smaller than usual is automatically adorable. FREE!

Stashbasket

Stash Basket from Yarnspirations – Free! Because putting your yarn in a container made of yarn is so meta.

Hemp Basket

Hemp Basket from Craft Passion – I love the natural look of this hemp basket, plus the pattern is free!

diamond-trellis-basket-022

Diamond Trellis Basket from Make My Day Creative – Crochet basket with some definite flair!  Also free.

Plant Hanger 1

Partial Shades Plant Hanger from Morale Fiber – Organize your plants too!  Free from me.

These free patterns should get you started on making some sweet, sweet sense out of your clutter.

-MF

Partial Shades T-Shirt Yarn Plant Hanger

Crochet Plant Hanger 2Planting time has finally arrived for us poor apartment-dwelling folk, so last weekend my roommate and I got to work potting lettuce and herb starts. With limited sun access and temperatures stubbornly remaining at lows of 35-40 for the past few weeks, we have to wait to plant things like tomatoes and cukes.

But we don’t have to wait to plant spider plants. Do you know what a spider plant is? It’s a virtually useless decorative plant that sends out about a zillion long, spindly appendages that end in little white flowers that turn into more spider plants. And it’s really hard to kill them. So what you end up with is way more spider plants than anyone wants. So you frantically try to give them to other people so that THEY can have more spider plants than THEY want, essentially furthering the cause of this insidious, but sort of pretty, species.

They're plotting.

Potting? More like PLOTTING.

Anyway, the front porch railing currently has five spider plants sitting on it. Clearly something has to be done.

Plant hangers, of course!

Plant Hanger 1

“Partial Shades” T-Shirt Yarn Plant Hangers

A great mother’s day gift, especially if made from the grandkids’ old outgrown t-shirts! The color block or ombre look gives interest while the simple stitch pattern makes this a sturdy, uncomplicated project that you can finish in one relaxing weekend morning.

Some brief notes about T-shirt yarn + rambling:
See here for a guide to making t-shirt yarn.

T-Shirt Yarn 1

I used T-shirt yarn cut to 1” strips and stretched tightly – your yarn may differ slightly in gauge if you cut it thicker or do not stretch it as tight. Just size it to your pot as best you can, and if you need a reference for building flat circles for the bottom, see here.

If you haven’t already, try modifying your hold on the hook when working with T-shirt yarn – hold it like a dagger and not like a pencil. (Some of you may do this already. I personally am a pencil holder*, but switch to dagger when I have to deal forcefully with something.)

* I mean that I hold the hook like a pencil, not that I myself am a device for holding pencils.

Materials:

Size “K” hook

Different shades of T-shirt yarn – I used 2-3 balls of T-shirt yarn (2-3 Adult large t-shirts) per plant hanger. Results may vary.

A smallish planter – I used a 17” circumference  pot, and wrote the pattern for that size, but it’s easy to customize the size by adding or subtracting rounds to the bottom circle.

Large-eyed yarn or tapestry needle.

Make Magic Ring.

Rnd 1: 6 Sc into the ring. Join with a slip stitch in the first sc of the round.

Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc in this round or in any subsequent rounds) 2 sc in each sc around. Join with a sl st in the first sc of the round. – 12 sc

Rnd 3. Ch 1, sc in the same stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch. (1 sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl stitch to the first sc of the round.- 18 sc.

T-Shirt Yarn 2

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in the same stitch, sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch. (1 sc in each of the next 2 stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) 5 times. Join with a sl st in the first sc of the round. – 24 sts

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in the same stitch, sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st in the first sc of the round – 30 sts.

Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in the same stitch, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st in the Back Loop Only of the first sc of the round – 36 sts.

T-Shirt Yarn 3

Continue working 6 increase stitches per round until your bottom circle can cover the bottom of your pot. The next round will be worked in the BACK LOOPS ONLY. This gives a nice, clean edge to the shape of your holder. If you like a rounder look, you can work both loops.

Rnd 7: In BLO. Ch 1, sc in the same stitch. 1 sc in each stitch around. join with a sl st to both loops of the first sc of the round.

T-Shirt Yarn 4

Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in the same stitch. Sc in each st of the round. Join with a sl stitch.

Rnds 9-17: Rpt Rnd 8. You can change colors at any point during these repeats, depending on how many color changes you desire or how much of each color of t-shirt yarn you have.

Rnd 18: Sl st in ea st around. This cleans up the rim and makes a neat looking edge. Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in the yarn ends.

Cut 4 lengths of t-shirt yarn a little more than TWICE as long as you want your hanging length (I measured one armspan per, making half that length equal to the distance between my fingertips to my chest).

T-Shirt Yarn 5

Double each length up, looping them under stitches of round 17 (NOT row 18, the slip stitch row) at four equal intervals.

Shown with wrong side facing

Shown with wrong side facing

Hook the loose ends and bring them through the loop, tightening them into a knot. Grab two adjacent yarn lengths, as show here…

T-Shirt Yarn 7

and knot them less than halfway up. Do this for each point so that each yarn length is knotted to at length from an adjacent knot. Gather all the lengths together at the top and make one large knot, pulling tightly to secure (you can even slip a dab of glue in there if you plant on hanging a heavy pot).

Crochet Plant Hanger 2

Enjoy your airborn greenery!

-MF

Pinstructional:
Tshirt Yarn Plant Hanger

Picture Dump Disguised as Content

Again with the documenting old stuff. This time it’s crocheted T-shirt rugs, in three different flavors…

MERRY PRANKSTER

CATHEDRAL

CANDY SHOP

I made all of these small-ish circular-ish accent rugs by crocheting around strips of upcycled cotton t-shirt. The method of using worsted weight yarn to crochet around the t-shirt is a lot more effective, time saving, and economic than just trying to crochet the t-shirt yarn itself. I have tried to crochet t-shirt yarn. My wrist and arm end up screaming and the product is bulky and unwieldy, plus you need like a zillion t-shirts to finish one decent sized rug.

This way is flatter, prettier, and doesn’t give me carpal tunnel (much).

-MF

Pattern Gallery: The Pouf Collection

Crochet Pouf Gallery

Poufs, ottomans, small stools, floor cushions (n.) – furniture that allows me to lay around on the ground like a lazy slob while giving off the appearance of being classy. With five patterns and five iconic pieces, this collection is a both practical and inspirational gallery to get you started on the perfect warm-weather furniture essential.

Pattern Gallery – Poufs & Ottomans

Crochet Argyle Pouf

One: Argyle Bean Bag Ottoman

Free pattern from Red Heart. Because nothing says “hip to be dorky” louder than argyle.

Crochet Pinwheel Pouf

Two: Pinwheel Pouf

Pinwheel Pouf by Tara Schreyer – 4.99 USD on Ravelry. Simple and elegant to match muted or natural tone décors.

Crochet Pea Ottoman

Three: Pea Ottoman

Pea Ottoman from Dailyfix – Adorable free pattern inspired by a children’s story

Crochet Stylish Pouf

Four: Stylish Pouf

Stylish Pouf – Another free pattern from Red Heart that uses a small bean bag for the stuffing.

Crochet Granny Mandala

Five: Granny Mandala

Granny Mandala by Crochet with Raymond – if you’ve already got a structured, circular ottoman that just needs some zazz, this is a great free starter pattern for a colorful cover. Just follow in pattern until the main circle is almost as big as the top of your ottoman, then stop increasing.

Inspiration Gallery – Recycled

Because poufs sort of rock the fun & funky retrokitch macroniche anyway, they’re a great project to make with recycled materials.  The sometimes-wacky colors and textures of upcycled material don’t have to be overwhelming because these occupy the “accent piece” category.

Crochet Fabric Scrap Pouf

Six: Fabric Crochet Pouf

From “Fabric Crochet Madness… a pouf” by Silly Old Suitcase.

Crochet Plastic Bag Pouf

Seven: Recycled Bag Cushion

Recycled Bag Cushion via BobVila.com , originally from hipcycle.com. I love working with plastic bag yarn. I find it interesting and rewarding – and, at least in America, really really plentiful.

Inspiration Gallery – Nature

Cute style ideas that mimic nature, awesome for your favorite woodland cottage (or mid-city apartment that you imagine is a woodland cottage).

Crochet Mushroom Ottoman

Eight: Mushroom Pouf

Recreating this beauty would take some power tool geekery I’m sure, but damn the results would be impressive. Even if you aren’t into band saws, it’s good inspiration for other fungus-style furniture.

Crochet Pear Pouf

Nine: Giant Pear Cushion

A big ol’ pear, apparently from this blog, which I can’t read at all, but one look at this picture and I was in love. Giant crochet fruit furniture is directly up my alley in a big way… expect pictures of my own version of this (eventually) here on MF Blog and my Pinterest.

Plush Tree Trunk Stool

Ten: Plush Tree Trunk Stool

Plush Tree Trunk stool. This one’s firmly on my to-do list as well.

Enjoy the low-level lounging!

-MF