Teddy Bear Onesie

The craze for animal-themed full-body pyjamas here in America has mostly passed my wardrobe by, but I have to admit that when I saw a fuzzy, teddy bear version with shorts and a hood while online shopping I thought it would look awefully cute.

The problem was that the product was on one of those cheap knockoff websites, you know, the same kind that steal images from independent artists like me and use the picture to sell terrible swill. So even if I could order a product that would actually fit my body (I checked the measurements chart – I couldn’t) I probably wouldn’t receive anything I’d actually want to wear.

So I thought to myself, as I very often do: “I could probably crochet that.”

And the next time I was in the Bad Yarn Buying Place, lo and behold I did find the absolute perfect yarn to imitate the garment I wanted. I decided to create what I wanted for me, and then document the process and offer it as a free tutorial here! Crappy companies steal from me and make money, so I’m stealing from crappy companies and giving back to you. And hopefully making some money. πŸ˜‰ (Speaking of which, have you seen my new Tip Jar?)

I intend to create a more comprehensive pattern for this in the future, with more detailed stitch counts and size options, but for now a description of my math and a photo tutorial with written instructions for the size I made (small) should get you started! If you make it I’d love to see – I have a Facebook Group for sharing crochet projects and we’d love to have you!

Keep scrolling for the FREE tutorial! If you want to save it for later, give it a fave on the Ravelry Pattern Page.

Materials & Notes:

Red Heart Hygge Fur (#5 Bulky, 7 oz/200 g, 260 yds – color shown is “Smokey) – 6 skeins
6.00 mm crochet hook
Buttons – I used 5/8ths inch buttons but next time I would choose inch buttons as they ended up being a little small
Ribbon or tie for the waist (optional) – I used an acyrlic mesh ribbon yarn
Scissors & tapestry needle
Measuring tape (comes in handy)

Gauge: 6 sts & 4 rows = 2″ (I measured gauge carefully but all other measurements given for schematics, fit, etc are approximated with measuring tape with the garment laid flat πŸ™‚ )

Notes: As mentioned in my demo video (link below), this pattern utilizes a yarn that makes the stitches very hard to see – so I recommend keeping good note of your stitch counts and rows! I didn’t always exactly do that, but the good news is, it’s also really easy to fudge it on this project πŸ˜›

If you’re customizing your own size working from my tutorial, you may want to keep the Craft Yarn Council Standard Sizes page handy πŸ™‚

Video Demo for working this yarn can be found here on my YouTube Channel.

Stitches Used:
Ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
bpdc – back post double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together – also known as a decrease (dec)
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
MR – magic ring

Instructions

Shorts

To begin, Ch 85. Join in the first ch of the round with a slip stitch to form a ring.

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first dc.) 1 hdc in every stitch. Join with a slip stitch in the first hdc of the round. – 85 sts.

Rows 2 – 20: Rpt Row 1.

Cut yarn and tie off. You’ll have a 10″ long tube, about 28″-30″ in circumference. This is most of the shorts. Next, we’ll add a small flat panel to the bottom to define the crotch and leg area.

Panel

Ch 7.

Row 1: 1 hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook. 1 hdc in ea of the next 5 ch sts. – 6 hdc.

Rows 2-10: Ch 1 (does not count). 1 hdc in every stitch. – 6 sts.

Cut yarn and tie off. Position the insert in the middle of the shorts, with one short edge against the edge on one side, and the opposite sides match the same way in the middle on the other side. Sew on the panel after checking there is an even amount of stitches left open on either side of the panel, for the legs.

I had 37 sts left free on either side for mine. I had 85 sts total for the waist, so minus the 6 sts on either side (12 total) I would have 73 remaining total. 73 / 2 = 36.5, but I’m fudging and saying 37 for simplicity’s sake. Things are fuzzy enough that 1/2 stitch estimate isn’t going to matter πŸ˜‰

Pictured above: shorts laid flat after panel is added. Also you can see my reflection.

Once the insert is placed, each leg hole will have rows added to lengthen the bottom of the shorts.

Shorts – Legs instructions
Row 1: Hdc in each hdc around, placing decreases at the corners were the insert meets the upper shorts. 1 hdc in the side of each row of the insert when working across.

Rows 2-4: 1 hdc in ea stitch around. I ended up with 42 stitches, I think I placed a couple extra decreases. Check the fit to find the right amount for you πŸ™‚

Once the rows for each leg are added, cut yarn and tie off. Shorts portion complete!

Upper Body

Belt Rib:

Locate the center stitch of the front portion of the shorts (this could be either side at this point – the shorts are identical front to back). You can do this by counting, measuring, counting up from the center of the insert, whatever. I eyeballed it carefully. We are now going to work 3 rows of post double crochets (you can find a tutorial for Post Stitches here on my blog if you don’t know how), to add some texture and a belt-loop placement for the hips.

Join new yarn at this center stitch on the top edge, working into Row 1 of the shorts. Ch 2 – does not count as first double crochet.

Row 1: 1 FPDC in the same stitch. 1 BPDC in the next st. (1 FPDC, 1 BPDC) around. Join with a slip stitch in the first st. – 85 sts

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count). 1 FPDC in the next FPDC, 1 BPDC in the next BPDC. – 85 sts

Row 3: Rpt Row 2.

Do not tie off. For the next portion of the body, we continue working but stop joining the rounds at the end – instead we will be working back and forth in rows. This creates a front opening for the garment.

Pictured above: Post stitch rib rounds completed, with the first few rows of back- and – forth hdc added.

Torso

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in every stitch. – 85 sts

Next, mark 1 point at each side of the torso – the place that falls at either hip. We will decrease at each of these points over the next two rows.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in ea st around until reaching the marked stitch. 1 hdc2tog (dec) over the marked stitch and the next st – place marker. 1 hdc in ea st around until reaching the 2nd marker. 1 hdc2tog (dec) over the marked st and the next st – place marker. 1 hdc in ea of the remaining sts – 83 sts.

Row 3: Repeat Row 2 – 81 sts.

Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in ea st around.

Rows 5- 20: Rpt Row 4.

Top Panels – Front

Now that biggest part of the upper body is build onto the shorts, we’ll fit the shoulder area. This will depend a little on how big you need your armholes – larger arms will need to leave a few more stitches unworked and/or make the panels slightly longer.

First, take two stitch markers and find the middle of each side of the garment (find by counting back from the split). Mark these two stitches as references.

For size small, I’m marking out a section 4-5 stitches inward from the front split on either side, and 4-5 sts inward from the side marker at either side. For my size the front panels will be 12 sts or ~4″ in width. Mark where you want your panels. Attach yarn at any of the markers.

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count) 1 hdc in the same stitch. 1 hdc in ea stitch across. – 12 sts.

Rows 2-15: Rpt Row 1.

Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat on the other side of the front, counting 4-5 stitches inward of the front split in the opposite direction.

Pictured above: Both 12-stitch long front panels completed. You can also see the completed back panel behind those, which we are about to tackle…

Top Panel – Back

For the back top panel, count again 4-5 stitches inward from the marked stitch on either side and place a marker for this area. Mine was 35 stitches in width, about 11.5-12″.

Row 1: Attach yarn at marked area. Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea stitch across. – 35 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 hdc in ea st across. – 35 sts.

Rows 3-15: Rpt Row 2.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Pictured above: Back top panel, complete

Sleeves

Match the top edges of the front and back panels so that the outer edges of the front panels are aligned with the outer edges of the back panel.

With a yarn and tapestry needle, sew a seam across the top edges, matching each stitch together, with a whip stitch. Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for other shoulder seam.

Pictured above: Shoulders with seams marked

With the stitch markers, mark where the seam you just sewed is located on either side.

Round 1: Attach yarn at the bottom of the sleeve, in the center of the unworked spaces at the armpit. Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea of the next sts around the entire sleeve, moving the marked stitch’s marker to the stitch above it as you work.

Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea of the next sts around until reaching the marked stitch at the shoulder. 1 hdc2together over the marked stitch and the next st – move marker to stitch just made. 1 hdc in ea of the remaining sts. Join with a sl st in the first hdc of the round. – 36 sts.

Pictured Above & below: First three rounds with marker moved

Rnd 3: Rpt Rnd 2. – 35 sts.

Rnds 4 -32: Ch 1 (does not count). 1 hdc in every st around. Join with a sl st. – 35 sts.

Rnd 33: Ch 2 (does not count as first double crochet). 1 FPDC in the same st. 1 BPDC in the next st. (1 FPDC, 1 BPDC) around. Sk last st if your total sts are not an even number ( this also makes a good thumbhole if your sleeves are long enough). – 34 sts.

Rnds 34-35: Repeat round 33.

Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat for other side’s sleeve.

Hood

Row 1: Ch 21. Hdc in the 2rd ch from the hook and in ea of the next 17 ch sts. 2 hdc in the next ch st. 2 hdc in the last ch st. Rotate the chain to begin working in the bottom loop of the foundation chain stitches. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in the next 18 sts made by the opposite side of the foundation chain. – 42 sts

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in same st. 1 hdc in the next 17 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next st. 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 19 sts. – 45 sts

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 18 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 19 sts. – 48 sts

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 18 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 20 sts. – 51 sts


Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 19 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 20 sts. – 54 sts

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 19 sts. 2 hdc in the next st.(1 hdc in the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 21 sts. – 57 sts


Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 20 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 6 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 21 sts. – 60 sts


Row 8: Ch 1, turn, 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 20 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 22 sts. – 63 sts


Row 9: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 21 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 22 sts. – 66 sts


Row 10: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 21 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) twice. 1 hdc in the next 23 sts – fig 57. – 69 sts

Pictured above: Hood to row 10
Pictured above: Hood, folded long the middle seam.

From here, the following rows work no increases to form the length of the pocket of the hood.

Rows 11-25: Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in ea st across. – 69 sts

Row 26: Ch 2, turn (does not count as first dc). 1 FPDC in the first st, 1 BPDC in the next st. (1 FPDC, 1 BPDC) across. Sk last st if number is odd to provide even repeats.

Rows 27-28: Ch 2, turn. 1 BPDC in ea BPDC, 1 FPDC in ea FPDC across.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Ears / Tail (Make 3)

This piece is worked circularly in the round, then flattened to make one double-sided half circle shape which serves as both the ears and the tail. Make 3 total.

Round 1:Make magic ring – 6 sc into the ring. Join with a sl st in the first sc.

Round 2: Ch 1, does not count as first sc. 2 sc in ea sc around. Join with a sl st – 12 sc.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in the first st. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) rpt 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 18 sc.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the next st. 2 sc in the next st. (1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 24 sc

Rnd 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in ea st around. -24 sc.

Rnds 6-9 or 10: Rpt Rnd 5.

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Assembly:

Attach new yarn to the corner of the front opening of the onesie, so that you are working down the side of the hdc rows toward the bottom middle of the split . 1 sc in the side of each row of hdc, skipping the last – 19 hdc.

Rotate and begin to single crochet up the side of the rows on the opposite of the opening, stopping at the opposite corner. This is your button band – I sewed my buttons onto this row. I didn’t use buttonholes, opting instead to use the natural openings between stitches – if you follow my lead, you’ll need slightly bigger buttons πŸ˜› But it works okay. You can also place button openings by skipping stitches and replacing them with chains.

With the buttonhole band complete, you’ll continue working across the collar. Before continuing, find the central foundation chain of the hood and attach it via locking stitch marker to the center of the collar (found by counting out).

From here, I slip stitched the hood onto the collar by inserting my hook into both layers at once, matching one stitch per row end on the hood.

You’ll likely have to slip stitch over a few stitches before you reach the point where you begin the hood seam. It’s also perfectly acceptable to cut your yarn, tie off, and just sew your hood seam using yarn and tapestry needle – I just prefer the sl st method because the seam is sturdier.

Once the hood is complete, try on the garment if possible to fit the ears and tail where you like them, using stitch markers as a guide on where to sew. Whip stitch the edges of flattened half circles together and sew on.

With my yarn and needle, I sewed on a long and frankly overpopulated line of buttons onto one side of the opening. As mentioned earlier, my buttons are a little small to be using the stitch holes, but whatever.

Lastly, after I had woven in all the ends, I strung a length of mesh ribbon yarn through the post stitch belt loops as a tie. This garment is pretty heavy when all assembled so the belt helps keep it all stabilized.

And with that, voila! You or someone you love is now a Teddy Bear.

This piece could EASILY be any of its components as a stand-alone – i.e, just the hood with ears, or just the upper portion to make a hoodie, etc. I don’t think I could pull off just the shorts portion personally but someone might wanna try πŸ˜‰

As I mentioned earlier I do intend on creating a fully formatted pattern with sizes and exact stitch counts at some point – until then, enjoy and let me know what you think! ❀

You know, I was almost a little embarrassed to post these pictures. I don’t know if anyone would guess, but it’s a pretty big challenge for me to put myself out there like I do all the time here. So why do I do it? Because some inner force compels me to make weird stuff and share it.

Life is short. Wear whatever the F$%# you want.

-MF

P.S – I had to work really hard not to make a Quarenstain Bears joke in the main text.

T-Shirt Rug Video Tutorial

Hi everyone! Like many out there in America right now, I’m scrambling to catch up with a world that was turned upside-down by COVID-19 virtually overnight. I know that there is a lot of hype out there, but I’m taking my responsibility seriously and I hope you do too – I am practicing social distancing and self-quarantine despite not having any symptoms. This is a vital strategy for everyone to employ as much as possible right now, and here’s a great article that explains why:

Covid-19 Update: A Message From Concerned Physicians

Ok! But that just means we have lots of extra time for hobbies, right? Right. Especially ones that don’t cost us a lot of extra money, and here’s a great one I’ve been meaning to bring out in video tutorial form anyway: The T-shirt Rug!

This is a favorite project of mine, resulting in lots of versions in the past and eating up lots of recycled t-shirts given to me by friends and family. The original blog post for this project gives the links for how to make your own t-shirt yarn, as well as the written tutorial for the general strategy.

See the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to create the first part of your own recycled t-shirt rug, plus me rambling and stuttering, ya know, as a bonus. πŸ˜› Other links that are referenced in the video:
Working a flat circle

This video covers the first 9 or so rounds, and you should be able to take it from there – but I may end up doing a Part 2 if enough people want me to! As always, I love your feedback and comments so be sure to leave ’em and don’t forget to like my video and subscribe to my Youtube channel if you haven’t yet ❀

Enjoy!

UPDATE 9/2020: I did end up doing a Part 2, added below, which moves on from the basic inner circle and covers some of the fancier strategies I use to add visual interest! Hope you like πŸ™‚

-MF

Pattern Gallery: Scrappy

I’d gotten out of the habit of doing pattern collection posts until last December when I couldn’t resist a Krampus-themed one. Now I’ve been thinking about all the scrappy projects I’ve done, and decided I’d do one focused just on my pattern offerings because hey, what am I here for anyway πŸ˜‰

Scrappy projects are those that utilize scrap lengths of yarn, leftovers that aren’t big enough for full projects. Technically any project can use scrap yarn if you want it to, but these are projects I designed to feature the nature of scraps in some way, or create an easy way to use them – i.e – strategize a way to feature unwoven in ends & short stripes, or create a pattern flattering to frequent color changes.

So here you go! I hope you enjoy and come share your projects on our Facebook Group, the Magic Fantastic Crochet Atelier!

Scrappy Patterns

1. Scrappy Granny Shawl – FREE. Super easy to customize and looks great in virtually any yarn. The Granny block stitches are a familiar and easy semi-open pattern that breaks up the color changes creating neat colored patches to the eye. Plus you just gotta feel like a boho damsel in this one!

2. Wayfarer Ruana – This giant ruana is a FREE pattern that combines both knit and crochet. The knit body of the ruana utilizes some very small scraps and is a serious scrapbuster! I also designed the garment with a fringe that incorporates the loose ends of all those scraps, so you don’t have to weave in. The edge of the piece is a sewn-on strip of granny squares, because why not? Hidden within this blog post pattern is a detailed, free, and easy tutorial for crochet granny squares designed for beginners, because I wanted to πŸ˜‰

3. Pixie Belt Tutorial – Inspired by less traditional styles (or perhaps FAR more traditional styles depending on your views of the little folk) comes the supremely fun to create Pixie Belt. This project is great for mixing and matching yarns, using up small scraps, and even busting some of your fabric stash. I make them and sell them as costume pieces to friends and festival-goers, or perhaps you know a little folk yourself who needs a mini-version πŸ™‚ The free tutorial for customizing your own comes as a series on my blog but is also purchasable as a single collection in one PDF.

4. Scrappy Knit Duster – The free knit tutorial for this western duster coat follows in the heritage of the Wayfarer Ruana, using small bits to knit long panels of color, leaving the unwoven ends as part of the fringe which is incorporated into the design. This garment provides a more snug fit than the ruana – and sleeves of course – because I wanted something that I could use for more everyday wear.

5. Rhiannon Hooded Cowl – I originally made these using scraps, then decided to write a pattern for the design to sell and used preplanned commercial yarns. Eventually, I decided it needed an aesthetic renewal and returned it to it’s scrappy state where I think it truly functions best, offering it both for free on my blog (via the link at the beginning of the paragraph) or in purchasable PDF format via my shops (linked at the top of the blog). I love that this design lives a double life ❀ appropriate.

6. Sun Dogs Throw – This free throw blanket crochet pattern was a result of my desire to destash a lot of colorful worsted weight acrylics – though I chose a rainbow so I could have a bright, fun camping blanket this season, this throw works great in any color combination and the 8-point expansive design makes it extra cozy and wrappable. The center uses up small scraps neatly and the outer edges eat up whole spare skeins πŸ˜‰

7. The Flower Child Pullover – One of the few exclusively paid patterns on the list, you can find it in my pattern shops linked above or through the blog post linked just here πŸ™‚ Though technically I could list the cousin pattern the Mandala Top in this collection as well, I won’t because the Flower Child pattern has a feature that makes it specific to scrap busting – a list of the approximated yardage requirements for each round, for #4 worsted weight yarns. Hopefully that chart makes it easier to use up scraps by taking away some guesswork!

8. Daydreamer Poncho – Another pattern originally sprung from scraps, written for preplanned commercial yarn, and then remade in the image of Scrap πŸ™‚ I guess I do that a lot. Anyway, I also revamped this design to include a skirt look, making it convertible too. The Daydreamer Poncho is a paid crochet pattern available in my pattern stores (linked above) or linked on the page given here with more info ❀

That’s it for my scrappy offerings today, though I’m sure more will occur in future. Looking back at all these patterns, I’m entertained at how they are pretty evenly split between faerie and rustic, fantasy and romantic western. Am I, at heart, a fairy cow girl? The historical evidence is fairly damning. Lol!

-MF

Sundogs Throw

Recently as I was attempting to cram coax yarn into my shelves while my friend Arika looked on and giggled, I got inspired to do a little stash-busting. Instead of continuing to struggle, I threw out some spare skeins out on the floor and together we crafted an eye-pleasing sequence of colors just for the fun of it, and as I looked on my mental list nudged me. I’ve been meaning to do something like this for a while!

Based on an old motif I made years ago, this circular blanket pattern is worked in #4 weight acrylic yarns changing color every (or nearly every) row. It’s rainbow inspiration is perfect for using up the bright, cheap acrylics that are ubiquitous in my stash thanks to my (welcome) reputation among my friends as a walking Yarn Orphanage πŸ˜‰

Named the Sun Dogs Throw after the optical effects that occur when ice crystals refract light into rainbows around the sun – I imagined this retro, prismatic piece as a tribute to funky love blankies everywhere, the kind that travel with you but always remind you of home. And what better way to show it off than with an impromptu Rainbow Sprite photoshoot with your friends?

(Models clockwise from bottom left – Debbra Lee, Daisey Denson, Kate May, and Arika Harris!)

And so I created a summertime throw for laying under the rays of the sun, or draping across the chair for morning coffee by the fire. It makes a pretty good wearable shawl too πŸ˜‰ I hope you love it! I’ll be taking mine camping as soon as possible ❀

Update!: The Ravelry Page is up for this design so give it a fave if you want to save it for later ❀

Materials

Hook: 6.00 mm

Yarn: Lots of colors in worsted weight acrylics. My estimate ~ 1000 – 1200 yards

Gauge = 6 sts & 3 rows = 2”

Finished measurements: 85” across from crest to crest, 55” across from trough to trough

Notes: Change color after every round or so. Join new color to the first stitch of the round.

Instructions

To begin, make Magic Ring

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc). 11 dc into the ring, join with a sl st into the 1st dc – 12 dc.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc). 1 dc in the same st. 2 dc in each of the next 11 sts. Join with a sl st in 1st dc. – 24 dc

Rnd 3: Sc in the same st as join, ch 4, skip 2 sts (sc in the next st, ch 3, skip 2 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in 1st sc – 8 ch-3 spaces made.

Rnd 4: Sl st into the next ch-3 space. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc 4 more times into the same space, ch 1. (5 dc into the next ch-3 space, ch 1) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in 1st dc. – 8 blocks of 5-dc, 8 ch-1 spaces made.

Rnd 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1st hdc), 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, hdc in the next st, 2 sc in the next ch-1 space. (Hdc in the next st, 1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts, hdc in the next st, 2 sc in the next ch-1 space) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st hdc.

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in the next st. 3 tr in the next st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts. Sc2tog over the next 2 sts. (1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 3 tr in the next st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog over the next 2 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 2 sts. 3 tr in the next st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, skip next sc. (1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts, 3 tr in the next st, 1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts, sk next st) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next st, 1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next st, 1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st into the 1st dc.

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 5 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr)  in the next st, 1 dc in ea of the next 6 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 6 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 6 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 7 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next st. 1 dc in ea of the next 8 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 8 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 8 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as 1 st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 9 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next st. 1 dc in ea of the next 10 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 10 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 10 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 12: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 11 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 12 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 12 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 12 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 13: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 13 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 14 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 14 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 14 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 14: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 15 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 16 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 16 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 16 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 15: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 17 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 18 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 16: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 19 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 17: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 20 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

 Rnd 18: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 21 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.  

Rnd 19: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 22 sts. Sk next st. Sl st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 20: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 21: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 24 sts. Sk next st. Sl st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 22: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 25 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 23: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 26 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 24: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 27 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 27 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 27 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 27 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 25: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 27 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 28 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 28 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 28 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 26: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 29 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 29 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 29 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 29 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 27: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 30 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 30 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 30 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 30 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 28: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 31 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 31 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 31 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 31 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 29: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 32 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 32 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 32 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 32 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join

Rnd 30: Ch 3 (does not count as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 33 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr in the next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 33 sts, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in ea of the next 33 sts.) rpt 7 times. 1 dc in ea of the next 33 sts. Sk next st. Slip st in the first dc to join.

Rnd 31:  Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 34 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 35 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 35 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 35 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 32: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 36 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 37 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 37 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 37 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 33: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 38 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 39 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 39 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 39 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 34: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 40 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 41 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 41 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 41 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 35: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 42 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 43 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 43 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 43 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Rnd 36: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in ea of the next 44 sts. (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 45 sts. (1 dc in ea of the next 45 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in the next ch sp. 1 dc in ea of the next 45 sts) rpt 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Cut yarn and tie off, weave in all ends.

(they’re about to drop a sick album)

Is it just me or is there something really, really comforting about a handmade, bright, crocheted blanket? I slept under them as a kid all the time – my grandma Metzger’s work – and we used them as blankets to lay on the grass in the summer, and they always smelled like the same closet, the closet upstairs next to my parent’s room, where I was born.

I hope this blanket design becomes like those, when it goes out in the world. The kind you can feel the love in. ❀

-MF

P.S- We all dug in my crochet bin and decorated with other goodies for this photoshoot, so here’s what else we’re wearing!

Me: (Pictured just above) The Valkyrie Top

Daisey Denson: Mehndi Halter Top, Lotus Hooded Duster

Debbra Lee: Embla Vest (sleeved) , Patchwork skirt sewn by me from Wendy Kay’s No Gathers Skirt pattern on Etsy.

Arika Harris: Embla Vest (linked above), and the Sundogs Throw of course πŸ˜‰

Kate May: Embla Vest (linked above) and Basic Bralette

Thanks again to my amazing models for always being willing to dress up crazy, hike out into the mud and rocks, alternately freeze / sweat / get blinded by the sun, and generally have a blast with me πŸ™‚

Forest Guide Hat

I debated with myself for a long time about what to call this fantastical creature hat. In the end, I chose “Forest Guide” because “Three Eyed Antlered Inter-dimensional Fox Spirit Guide” seemed too long. Whatever you call it, this new design is available for FREE here in this blog post or as a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF in my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Store. Read on for more details!

Let’s rewind a minute to talk about the inspiration for this design- this hat was conceived in several different parts, the first part being that I see faces in random blobs (a common human tendency called “pareidolia” and side effect of having any kind of imagination) and I saw a three-eyed antlered fox one day while staring sleepily at the tapestry on my bedroom wall.

“Say” I said to myself, “that would make a weird hat.” You see, I had recently completed a custom commissioned piece for a complex hat with tons of details based on my Krampus Hat pattern. It was an experience that gave me lots of new ideas.

The free pattern for the Krampus Hat itself has produced so many amazing, creative interpretations that I wanted to do another pattern that was similarly Out There. And I wanted to keep exploring the 3-D, sculptural crochet techniques that I have already been dabbling in for a while (like with the Deer Hat and the Sylphie Hat).

Plus, CREATURES. I like ’em. Rawr.

So I stared at my tapestry a bit more, made some sketches, and worked out a vague plan. I was aiming to create something mystical, and complex, and cute but creepy in a Ghibli-esque sort of way. An elusive forest spirit, a shapechanger, a keeper of the paths.

One of the best parts about designing this was all the little shapes that make up the details of the hat – there are 23 individual amigurumi components to this hat. That’s a lot! But with so many options, the piece can be customized to your heart’s content OR the details can be used individually for different projects (Make just the fox hat, or those antlers might make an awesome headpiece on their own, or the cute crescent moon could adorn something…)

I hope you enjoy this FREE crochet pattern for the Forest Guide hat, and have as much fun creating it as I did. This pattern is available with all the same features here as a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store!

100% of the proceeds from the first five days of PDF sales for this pattern was donated to WIRES, an Australian wildlife rescue nonprofit, to help aid the animals fleeing burned habitat ❀ Thank you everyone who participated in the fundraiser!

This elaborate crochet fantasy hat imagines the spirit of the forest as an elusive shapechanger, guide, and keeper of the paths. In the form of a three-eyed, antlered fox, it appears to travelers trying to find their way. Will it offer help or guide you deeper into wilderness?

A customizable soft-sculpture costume head piece, this is one crochet project that you will not be able to keep hidden in the trees! The written pattern for the main hat includes detailed instructions for all 23 amigurumi components, plus photo AND video tutorials for making all the pieces and assembling.

Written in U.S terminology

Materials & Notes

4.50 mm hook
3.75 mm hook

2 skeins Lion Brand Heartland Yosemite (#4 Worsted Weight, 251 yds / 5 oz, 100% acrylic) (Main Color – Red)
1 skein Lion Brand Heartland Great Sand Dunes (Accent Color – Beige)
1 skein Lion Brand Heartland Bryce Canyon (Accent Color – Gold)
>100 yds #4 weight accent color orange
>100 yds #4 weight accent color black
>50 yds #4 weight accent color white

> 50 yds accent fur yarn (any white or cream colored)
> 50 yds accent fur yarn (any orange) – optional

Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Polyester Fiberfill & stuffing stick
12” chenille craft pipe cleaners, 6 mm (2)
Measuring tape
Styrofoam Head form
Locking stitch markers

Gauge:

4 sts & 8 rows = 1”, or 2” in diameter after Rnd 7 in main pattern

Finished Measurements:
Main Hat: 24” circumference around the inside, 13-14” from bottom of earflap to crown

Stitches and Abbreviations:


magic ring (MR)
single crochet (sc)
slip stitch (sl st)
front loop only (FLO)
chain stitch (ch)
back loop only (BLO)
single crochet decrease (sc dec)
half-double crochet (hdc)
double crochet (dc)
treble crochet (tr)
5-wrap bullion (5-bull)- Wrap yarn around hook 5 times. Insert hook into next st, draw up a loop. Draw the same loop through each of the 5 wraps on the hook. YO and draw through last loop on the hook. (Double crochet may be substituted for this stitch)
6-wrap bullion (6-bull) – Wrap yarn around hook 6 times. Insert hook into next st. draw up a loop. Draw the same loop through each of the 6 wraps on the hook. YO and draw through last loop on the hook. (Treble crochet may be substituted for this stitch)
back post double crochet (BPDC) – double crochet worked by inserting the hook around the post of the stitch below, entering and emerging from the back (wrong side) of the work . For more help with post stitches, see my tutorial here: Post Stitch Ribbing tutorial
back post half double crochet (BPHDC) – half double crochet worked by inserting the hook around the post of the stitch below, entering and emerging from the back (wrong side) of the work.
front post double crochet (FPDC) – double crochet worked by inserting the hook around the post of the stitch below, entering and emerging from the front (right side) of the work.
front post half-double crochet (FPHDC) –  half double crochet worked by inserting the hook around the post of the stitch below, entering and emerging from the front (right side) of the work.
right side (RS)
wrong side (WS)
hook (hk)
stitch/es (st/sts)

Notes:

The circular pattern alternates rounds worked in the front and back loops of the previous round. I highly recommend using a locking marker on the back loop of the first stitch of each sc round (odd numbered rounds) so you know for sure where to start and finish – with all of those loops it can get confusing and the markers always save the day.

Working a large number of chain loops will make the hat base curl and may be hard to work with – this is normal. For help on how to handle working the main hat, please see my demo video on my Youtube channel linked below.

Video Tutorials: Video tutorials, including demos and full-length patterns for this design, can be found on my Youtube Channel here. They’re also embedded in the instructions on the blog below!

Main Hat Instructions

To Begin, make magic ring with Main Color and a 4.50 mm hook.

Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring, join round with a sl st in the front loop of the first stitch. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 6 sts

Rnd 2: Working in the FLO of Rnd 1 (Ch 9, *sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt  5 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 6 ch loops

Rnd 3: 2 sc into each of the back loops only (BLO)  of the sc stitches from Rnd 1.  Join with a sl st in the FLO. – 12 sts

Rnd 4: Working in the FLO of Rnd 3, (Ch 9. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt  11 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join – 12 ch loops

Rnd 5: In BLO of Rnd 3, (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in the next st. ) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 18 sts

Rnd 6: Working in the FLO of Rnd 5, (Ch 9. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt  17 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 18 ch loops

Rnd 7: In BLO of Rnd 5, (1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round – 24 sts

Rnd 8: Working in the FLO of Rnd 7, (Ch 9. *sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 23 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 24 ch loops

Rnd 9: In BLO of Rnd 7, (1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 30 sts

Rnd 10:  Working in FLO of Rnd 9, (Ch 9. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 29 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 30 ch loops

Rnd 11: In BLO of Rnd 9, (1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 36 sts

Rnd 12: Working in FLO of Rnd 11, sc in the same stitch as sl st join. (Ch 9. *Sc in the next stitch.)  Rpt  35 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 36 ch loops

Rnd 13: In BLO of Rnd 11, (1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 42 sts

Rnd 14: Working in FLO of Rnd 13,  (Ch 9. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 41 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 42 ch loops

Rnd 15: In BLO of Rnd 13, (1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 48 sts

Rnd 16: Working in FLO of Rnd 15, (Ch 10. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 47 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 48 ch loops

Rnd 17: In BLO of Rnd 15, (1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 54 sts

Rnd 18: Working in FLO of Rnd 17, (Ch 10.  *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 53 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 54 ch loops

Rnd 19: In BLO of Rnd 17, 1 sc in each sc around. Join with a sl st in the FL of first st in the rnd. – 54 sts

Rnd 20: Working in FLO of Rnd 19, (Ch 11. *Sl st in the next st.) Rpt 53 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 54 ch lps

Rnd 21: In BLO of Rnd 19, (1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 60 sts

Rnd 22: Working in FLO of Rnd 21, (Ch 11. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 59 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 60 ch loops

Rnd 23: In BLO of Rnd 21, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 60 sts

Rnd 24: Working in FLO of Rnd 23, (Ch 11. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 59 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 60 ch loops

Rnd 25: Working in BLO of Rnd 23, (1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FL of the first st of the rnd. – 66 sts

Rnd 26: Working in the FLO of Rnd 25, (Ch 11. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 65 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 66 ch loops

Rnd 27: In BL of previous rnd, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 66 sts

Rnd 28: Working in FLO of previous rnd, (Ch 12. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 65 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 66 ch loops

Rnds 29-42: Rpt Rnds 27-28 7 more times.

Rnd 43: In BL of previous rnd, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 66 sts

Rnd 44: Working in FLO of previous rnd, (Ch 13. *Sl st in the next st.) Rpt 65 more times, ending alst rpt at *. Do not join.

Rnds 45 – 52: Rpt Rnds 43-44 4 more times. Sl st in the next st.  Do not tie off – leave yarn attached to begin working earflaps.

Earflaps (Make 2)

Get four locking stitch markers. Place one in the BL of the first stitch of the previous round. Place second marker 9 stitches from the first (counting in same direction as you would work the round). Including stitches with markers, this makes a 10-stitch section. Starting with the first stitch after the 2nd marker, count 19 stitches in the same direction you would work the round. Place the third marker in the back loop of the 19 stitch. Place 4th marker 9 stitches from the third.

This leaves you with two marked off sections of 10 stitches (where you will work the earflaps) with an 18-stitch gap on one side (the back of the hat) and a 28-stitch gap on the other side (the front of the hat).  You can try on the hat now to see where those sections fall and adjust if necessary – as long as you have two sections of 10 stitches you can place them where you like.

Earflaps are worked in rows, turning after each row. Every row is worked in the back loop only.

Row 1: RS facing, join with a sc to the marked st at the beginning of one marked off 10-st section. 1 sc into the BLO of ea of next 9 sts. Ch 13, turn.

Row 2: Working in the BLO, sl st in next st. (Ch 13, * sl st in the next st) 9 more times, ending last rpt at *. Turn – 10 ch loops

Row 3: In the BLO, sc in ea of the next 10 sts. Ch 13, turn.

Row 4: Rpt Row 2.

Row 5: Rpt Row 3.

Row 6: Rpt Row 2.

Row 7: To begin this row, work a sc decrease over the BL of the first 2 stitches. Sc in ea of the next 6 sts. Work a sc decrease over the next 2 stitches. Ch 13, turn. – 8 sts.

Row 8: Sl st in the next st. (Ch 13, * sl st in the next st) 7 times, ending last rpt at *. Ch 13, turn. –  8 ch loops.

Row 9: Sc in ea of the next 8 sts. Ch 13, turn. – 8 sts

Row 10: Rpt Row 8.

Row 11: To begin this row, work a sc decrease over the BL of the first 2 sts. Sc in ea of the next 4 sts. Work a sc decrease over the next 2 sts. Ch 13, turn. – 6 sts

Row 12: Sl st in the next st. (Ch 13, *sl st in the next st) 5 times, ending last rpt at *. Turn. – 6 ch loops

Row 13: Work a sc decrease over the next 2 sts. Sc in ea of next 2 sts. 1 sc dec over the next 2 sts. Ch 13, turn. – 4 sts

Row 14: Sl st in the next st. (Ch 13, *sl st in the same st) 3 times, ending last rpt at *. Turn. – 4 ch loops

Row 15: (Work a sc dec over the next 2 sts) twice. If this is your first earflap, cut yarn and tie off. If this is your second earflap, do not cut or tie off.

Brim:

The brim works three rows of sc in each stitch around the edge of the hat, including the earflaps. Continue using yarn still attached from the 2nd earflap.

Row 1: Work 1 sc in the side of ea row down the earflap toward the main part of the hat. Continue to work 1 sc in the back loops of the stitches and 1 sc in between ea loop on the sides of the earflaps all the way around the hat.

Row 2: Sc in ea sc.

Row 3: Sc in ea sc.

Details Instructions

Fox Ears (Make 2):

Worked in the round, placing marker in the first stitch of every round to keep track.

With 4.50 hook and #4 black yarn, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 6 sts

Rnd 2: *1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 9 sts

Rnd 3: *1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 12 sts

Rnd 4: *1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 15 sts

Rnd 5: *1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 18 sts

Rnd 6: *1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 21 sts

Rnd 7: *1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 24 sts

Rnd 8: *1 sc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 27 sts

Rnd 9: *1 sc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 30 sts

Rnd 10: *1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 33 sts

Rnd 11: *1 sc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 36 sts

Rnd 12: *1 sc in ea of the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 39 sts

Rnd 13: *1 sc in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. -42 sts

Rnd 14: *1 sc in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 45 sts

Rnds 15 – 19: 1 sc in ea st around. – 45 sts.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Ear Trim:

The ear is flattened to later fit on the hat – flatten the ear and fold it inward to get an idea.  Video demo available below.

Row 1: To trim the ear, use the 4.50 mm hook to attach the fur accent yarn a few stitches inward from the edge, starting at the bottom. Slip stitch on the surface of the piece, staying a few stitches inward from the edge, toward the tip of the ear.

Once a few stitches from the top, turn and slip stitch back down the other side in the same manner.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn and slip stitch in ea of the slip stitches just made in the first Row.

Row 3 (Optional): I did a third line of slip stitching inward from the first, using a different fur yarn, to add more texture. Work across the bottom of the ear for the 3rd row.

TIP: Use a pet brush or wig brush to tease out the hair on the fur yarn to make the texture softer!

Antlers:

Main Tine (Make 2):

Worked continuously in the round, place marker in the first stitch of every round to keep track. Video tutorial available below.


With 3.75 hook and #4 accent color beige, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: 3 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 3 sts

Rnd 2: 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st. – 4 sts

Rnd 3: 1 sc in ea st. – 4 sts

Rnd 4: Rpt rnd 3

Rnd 5: 1 sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in the next st. – 5 sts

Rnd 6: 1 sc in ea st. – 5 sts

Rnd 7: Rpt rnd 6

Rnd 8: 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. – 6 sts

Rnd 9: 1 sc in ea st. – 6 sts

Rnds 10-11: Rpt Rnd 9.

Rnd 12: *2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. Rpt from * once more. – 8 sts.

Rnd 13: 1 sc in ea st. – 8 sts

Rnds 14-15: Rpt Rnd 13

Rnd 16: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts. – 9 sts

Rnd 17: 1 sc in ea st. – 9 sts

Rnds 18 – 19: Rpt Rnd 17

Rnd 20: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. – 10 sts

Rnd 21: 1 sc in ea  st. – 10 sts

Rnds 22 – 30: Rpt Rnd 21

Rnd 31: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. – 12 sts

Rnd 32: 1 sc in ea st. – 12 sts.

Slip stitch in the next few stitches to finish. Cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.

2nd Tine (Make 2):

Work Rounds 1 – 14 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 14, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.

3rd Tine (Make 2):


Work Rounds 1 – 12 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 12, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.

4th Tine (Make 2):

Work Rounds 1 – 10 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 10, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Antler Video Tutorial:

Antler Construction:

Video demo available below.

With polyester fiberfill and stick, stuff a tiny bit of filling in the tip of the Main Tine. Take one 12” 6mm pipe cleaner and fold in half, twisting loose ends together to form a flat loop. Insert twisted end into the Main tine, leaving a small bit of loop sticking out of the opening. Gently fill the bottom part of the Main Tine around the wire armature with poly fill. Roll and massage the piece to even out the filling – do not overstuff! It should still be flexible and posable on the armature.

Gently stuff the 2nd tine with a small amount of fiberfill. With tapestry needle, thread long yarn tail of the 2nd Tine. Position about halfway up the Main Tine and sew around the base of the 2nd tine.

Gently stuff the 3rd tine with a small amount of fiberfill.  With tapestry needle, thread long yarn tail of the 3rd tine and position at the base of the Main Tine. Sew the tine so that the base is partially attached. Leave about half of the base free to attach to the hat along with the base of the Main Tine.

Gently stuff the 4th tine with a tiny amount of fiberfill. Leave this tine free, it is attached to the Hat separately later.

Antler Construction Demo Video

Snout:

Snout is constructed by working four triangular shapes back and forth separately onto the same circle, adding seams at the end. Ch 1 at beginning of rnd does not count as first sc.

With Beige and 3.75 hook, make magic ring.

1st quarter:

Rnd 1: 8 sc into the ring. Join with a slip stitch in the first sc of the round.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 2 sc in the next st. – 4 sts

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 6 sts

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 8 sts

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 10 sts

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 12 sts

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 10 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 14 sts

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 16 sts

Row 9: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 14 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 18 sts

Row 10: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 16 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 20 sts

Row 11: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 18 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 22 sts

Row 12: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 20 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 24 sts

Rows 13 -14: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 24 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

2nd & 3rd Quarter:

With Gold, join yarn in either set of two stitches adjacent to the 1st quarter.

Row 1: Ch 1, 2 sc in the next st. 2 sc in the next st. – 4 sts

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 4 sts

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in the next 2 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 6 sts

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 6 sts

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 8 sts.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 8 sts

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 10 sts

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 10 sts

Rows 9 – 14: Rpt Row 8. – 10 sts

Cut yarn and tie off. Rpt for 3rd quarter on the other side of 1st.

4th Quarter (Top of snout)


With Main color, join yarn in first of remaining 2 sc.

Row 1: Ch 1, 2 sc in the same st, 2 sc in the next st. – 4 sc

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in ea st. – 4 sc

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in the next 2 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 6 sts

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 6 sts

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 8 sts.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 8 sts

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 10 sts

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 10 sts

Row 9: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 12 sts

Row 10: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 12 sts

Rows 11-14: Rpt Row 10

Do not tie off.

Snout Construction:

Video demo available.


Match the edge of the sides (2nd and 3rd quarter) to the top of the snout (4th quarter) and work a single crochet over the end stitch of both layers at once. Work 1 sc per row end across the edge to create a seam. Turn, work 2 slip stitches across the tip, then continue seam down the other side. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

With accent color beige, repeat the process on the other side connecting the bottom (1st quarter) to the sides (2nd and 3rd quarter). Work 1 sc stitch per row end across the edge to create a seam. Turn, work 2 slip stitches across the tip, then continue seam down the other side. Cut yarn and tie off.

Nose:

With 3.75 hook and accent color Black, chain 10.

Row 1: 4 hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook. 1 hdc in ea of the next 3 ch sts. 4 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 3 sts. 4 hdc in the next st. Slip stitch in the opposite side of the chain stitch 5 stitches away.

Row 2: Sc in the back loop only (BLO) of the first st of the previous round. Working in the BLO, sc in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc of the round.

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Eyes (Make 3):

(Pictured above clockwise from left – Eye without finishing, 3rd eye with finishing, Left Eye with finishing)

The Eyes feature the bullion stitch, an advanced crochet stitch described in the stitches section. For help working this stitch, see my video tutorials, linked in the Notes section. If you do not want to tackle bullion, regular crochet stitches can be substituted. Substitute double crochet for the 5-bullion stitch and treble crochet for the 6-bullion stitch.

With 3.75 hook and accent color black, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: 2 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc into the ring. Sl st in first sc to join. Pull ring closed tightly. Cut yarn and tie off.

With accent color gold, join yarn in last st worked. Ch 3 to start.

Rnd 2: Work 2 5-bull sts in the first 4 sts. (2 6-bull, ch 1, 2 6-bull) in the next st. Work 2 5-bull sts in the next 5 sts. (2 6-bull, ch 1, 2 6-bull) in the next st. Work 2 5-bull sts in the next st. Sl st to join. Cut yarn and tie off.

Brow – Left eye:

With Wrong Side facing, attach black yarn three sts away from the 6-bull increase of either end of the eye.

Row 1: Sc in the same st. Sc in the next 2 sts. In the next ch space, work 3 hdc. 1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 dc in ea of the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

Row 2: Turn piece. With Right Side facing, attach beige yarn 4 stitches away from the end of the brow – attach new yarn around post of 4th from last stitch. Ch 3. 1 Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC) in the same st. 1 BPDC in ea of the next 8 sts. 1 Back Post Half Double Crochet (BPHDC) in ea of the next 4 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

Brow – Right eye:

With Right side Facing, attach black yarn three sts away from the 6-bull increase of either end of the eye.

Row 1: Sc in the same st. Sc in the next 2 sts. In the next ch space work 3 hdc. 1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 dc in ea of the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

Row 2: Turn piece. With Wrong Side facing, attach beige yarn 4 sts away from the end of the brow – attach new yarn around post of the 4th from last st. Ch 3. 1 Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC) in the same st. 1 FPDC in ea of the next 8 sts. 1 Fack Post Half Double Crochet (FPHDC) in ea of the next 4  sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

 3rd Eye:

With Main Color, Join yarn in any stitch. 1 sc in each stitch around. In the chain space at the first point, work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Continue to single crochet to next point. Work 3 sc in the chain space. Continue to sc around, join with a sl st to first sc of the round.

Crescent Moon:

With Accent color White and 3.75 hook, ch 9.

In the 2nd ch from the hook, 2 sc. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 ch sts. 3 dc in the next ch st. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 ch sts. 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the next st. Cut yarn and tie off.

Back Markings:


With 3.75 hk and Gold, Ch 40

2 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook. 2 dc in ea of the next 9 ch sts. 1 dc in ea of the next 9 sts. 3 dc in the next st. 2 dc in the next st.  1 dc in ea of the next 9 sts. 2 dc in ea of the next 10 sts.  Cut yarn and tie off.

With same hook and yarn, make magic ring.

Ch 3. 12 dc into the ring – tighten. Join with a sl st in first dc of the round.  Repeat for 2nd circle.

Fang:

With 3.75 mm hook and accent color white, follow Rounds 1-4 of the Main Tine. Cut yarn and tie off.

Braids:

Cut 48 30” long strands. Separate into 2 groups of 24, double up to form a loop and loop through the end of each earflap on any available loop, or directly into the crochet stitching if you prefer. Braid and tie off.

Assembly:

It’s okay and even preferable if you trap a lot of loops under the sewing for your detail pieces. Work slowly and conscientiously to get the loops and pieces arranged nicely.
The demo video for assembly is condensed at 25 times faster the speed I did it – it took me over 3 hours to assemble this! Take your time, but don’t be focused on getting it absolutely perfect because it won’t be.
Your hat will have a character of it’s own!

Using locking stitch markers, head form and tape measure, attach the components to the main hat. Start by centering the snout (nose already sewn on) so that the beige edge matches up against the brim on the center above the face. Stitch all components directly over the chain loops, making sure the securing thread attaches all the way down to the base of the hat, not just to the loops.  Next tackle the 3rd eye, then tack on the other two eyes (don’t recommend sewing them on fully yet).

After the eyes are positioned and partially attached, arrange the ears and tack them on using temporary securing methods such as locking stitch markers, safety pins, or tied yarn.

Next, position your main antlers – insert the pipe cleaner loop at the base of the antler all the way through the stitches on the base of the main hat so that you can grab the wire loop on the underside. Using the main color, thread yarn through this loop and secure the pipe cleaner to the surrounding stitches, then weave yarn over this base to cover it.

If all components look more or less aligned (I recommend looking from many angles and utilizing your tape measure A LOT) you can finish securing the eyes, ears, and antlers using the attached yarn tails. Use your yarn tension and stitches to make little adjustments to placement as you go if needed.

Then position the 4th tines, stuffed lightly if desired, on either side of the 3rd eye. The Crescent is placed below the 3rd eye and the fangs underneath the snout on the inside of the bottom seam. The back designs go on last.

With accent color yarns and a tapestry needle, make a few overlapping straight stitches down the center of the eye to give it shine.

Once all components are attached, weave in any remaining ends.

Assembly Video

The following video records my assembly process for this piece – it takes a while! The video is sped up at 25 times the normal rate, so while it isn’t great at being a tutorial, hopefully it gives an overall idea of how to go about putting it all together. Plus, it was fun for me to watch. BTW I’m wearing the Gnome Toboggan hat in this video πŸ˜‰

Fringe Fur:

With Beige, cut a large bundle of 6” strands. Carve out a rounded cheek silhouette in the chain loops on the side of the hat, making a furrow to mark where you will fringe. Taking 2 strands at a time, loop the fringe into the chain loops and tighten, working along the loops on the furrow marked out. Repeat on the other side. – 25 (ish) fringe tassels each side should do it.

Repeat this process with accent color Orange, positioning over the top of the beige – 15-20 fringe tassels

Repeat with Main color, underneath the beige, centered on the earflap – 15 fringe tassels.

Give the fox a haircut – trim the β€œfur” until it is the length you want. Look over your new masterpiece and make any little adjustments, squishing the chain loops into their final places around the face features, etc. Spray block with water if desired.

This project was a really fun journey into shapes and textures that I hope others will customize and invent upon ❀

There are several elements in the costume for this piece I’d like to mention specifically: the skirt is sewn by me from upcycled fabric cut from unusable old clothes. The fingerless gloves are a modified version of my Rambler’s Mitts.

The fringed leather bag is also handmade by me, constructed from upcycled suede scraps crocheted together with cotton thread, with a hand sewn stone setting in the front.

The gorgeously magical moth clip is from the Etsy Shop The Forest Fae ❀

I’ve watched too many internet videos of foxes jumping to not do this.

-MF

The Stump

Long ago, in a galaxy far far away, I used to write blog posts of themed crochet projects. These Pattern Galleries were mostly links to actual patterns, but occasionally contained inspiration-only images.

It was there that I first idea’d a crocheted stump ottoman. In the Pouf Collection, which I so aptly described as
” Poufs, ottomans, small stools, floor cushions (n.) – furniture that allows me to lay around on the ground like a lazy slob while giving off the appearance of being classy. “
I featured this image of a now-unavailable product from Anthropologie.

Welcome to the world of slow art! Because today I have an actual, finished product inspired by that post that feels like forever ago (it wasn’t, but you know…)

I did put a stump ottoman “firmly on my to-do list” in fact, but I didn’t actually start the project until 2017, when I purchased a slightly beat-up vintage ottoman and wanted to cover the nasty vinyl with something cooler. A removable, freeform cover in the shape of a stump would be just perfect.

I started by gathering all my little bits of white and beige scrap yarn and crocheting a flat, ringed circle. Spike stitches and varying my stitch height were strategies I used to give it a naturally odd appearence – totally symmetrical was not the goal.

This of course was the top of my stump, where the inner rings of the tree are showing. Once I had this circle big enough to cover the top of the ottoman, I folded it up and put it aside to start on the bark, which would go around the outside of the ottoman.

I chose to alternate a light brown with a dark brown, both #3 or #4 weight throughout the piece, and all worked as post stitches of various heights. I used a spike stitch to create a segmented texture in the bark.

I started the bark with a 4.00 mm hook. Working post stitches in worsted yarn with a 4.00 hook is pretty tough and slow going though, really – if you’re not used to it. I quickly grew bored with the bark and put the project aside, making some effort at progress but mostly be distracted by other things (like the budding Elf Coat project).

Well, after a time I reshuffled my life and ended up losing the ottoman that The Stump was to cover. But I kept my project, determining I could find another way to fill it. If I could convince myself to finish that awefully boring bark part.

I did hack away at it occasionally until about two months ago, when I decided to finish this thing for real. I switched hooks, sizing up to a 4.5 mm to speed the process along, and made the project a priority. I needed almost 70″ of bark in length to match the circumference of the flat top, and with some gritting of the teeth, I got it.

In addition to the freaky freeform eyeball knot I worked into the texture πŸ˜‰

I took a few videos of me working along the way, for posterity. Here’s a demo video of the bark, showing how I worked the post stitches, dual strands, and spike stitches to create the texture.

Time to construct! Using locking stitch markers, I measured roughly how the bark would attach and then stitched it together.

I added a few more freeform rounds around the top to give it a nice gnarly edge, then turned my attention to finishing the main part of the cover.

The eyeball knot got stuffed full of polyester filling and then closed with rounds of stitches worked directly onto the back on the inside.

At this point I was ready to tackle the idea of how to fill this thing. Rather than hunt for a new ottoman over which this could fit, I needed a semi-firm filling that would give the furniture piece some weight and resistance.

A bean bag seemed like the logical conclusion, and I schemed up a bottom portion of the Stump that could be closed with a drawstring and tied shut, so that I could insert or remove a bag full of beans.

Then, beans happened! After I sewed the inner bag out of sheet scraps, I carefully poured a huge bag of styrofoam beans from the craft store in and stuffed that sucker.

Now that the filling part was worked out, I could turn my attention to the most fun part: adding all the growths.

Using a selection of earthy toned scrap yarns, I applied myself to creating three types of moss, two batches of lichens, extra bark, shelf fungus, and toadstools either worked directly onto the piece or sewn on after.

Once the last lichen was nestled in, I took a deep breath and a minute to pat myself on the back. Finally done!

And because it grew with me over time, my connection to this piece feels pretty personal. I dyed that lichen yarn, I spun that moss, I rescued those scraps. I cussed at that bark, delighted over those toadstools, cried on those tree rings. At first we were strangers, but now The Stump and I are good friends (I fear I will end up referring to it as Stumpie, now matter how hard I try not to).

The hedgehogs were excited.

Here’s the link to the Ravelry Project Page, which has the full compliment of pictures, if you want to give Stumpie a fave (oh no…).

I’m off to personify yarn somewhere else for a while, and hopefully not start any more four year fiber art projects (yeah right).

-MF

P.S – In case you spied the other crocheted accessories and were curious:
I’m wearing two other Morale Fiber designs in these photos – the Spiral Sweater and the Ivy Crown as a boot wrap. πŸ˜‰
The pumpkin pictured and the felted hedgehogs are also made by me.

Lotus Duster Video Tutorial Part 4

Without much preamble, I’m excited to announce the addition of Part 4 of the Lotus Mandala Duster pattern crochet tutorial to my Youtube Channel!

Thanks to everyone who has liked and subscribed so far, it really does help build my channel and therefore help me keep going with my creating πŸ™‚

You can find the video tutorial below or go to my channel to see all 4 parts released so far, as well as other awesome tutorial videos and demo. Part 4 covers Rounds 25-32, the chain-loop mesh portion of the outer sweater.

Style shown above is the Lotus Duster, without sleeves – with the Lotus Hood addition <a href="https://moralefiber.blog/2019/04/27/lotus-hood/&quot; target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="<3

Parts 5 and 6 coming soon!

-MF

Lotus Duster Tutorial Part 3

Tippy-top on my to-do list is finishing the Lotus Duster video tutorial, in no small part because I’m getting very excited about seeing the finished product! You can find Parts 1 & 2 on my Youtube Channel here.

Each time I make a new one, I fall in love with it all over again ❀ I mean, not to toot my own horn or anything πŸ˜‰ So putting together Part 3 of this video was very rewarding, because in Rnds 17 – 24 we are adding armholes and really starting to shape the central mandala into the pretty ruffley sweater form.

This material is looking like a soft doily dream – it’s the 100% cotton yarn, in fine stranded texture, ripped out from a number of old thrifted sweaters. Recycling sweater yarn is a lot of hard work, but it’s hard to beat in terms of quality, quantity, and overall cost for these Duster pieces, and nothing gives the piece a more retro vintage-y feel than upcycled yarn.

Okay, blathering completed – enjoy Part 3 and remember to like & subscribe, link me, and share me on Facebook if you want to support more slick FREE content πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚

❀ ❀

-MF

Tree of Life Video Tutorial

This post will be a quick one, so I can get back to my lazy Sunday afternoon sloth-fest, but I’ve managed to create a video tutorial for the first 6 rounds of the Tree of Life Mandala pattern and wanted to share it as soon as I could πŸ™‚

This video is full-length up to Round 6, so that all the intricate workings of the branches are available to see in real time. Since some bits of it are a little complex, I knew that a video would be eventually if not immediately necessary. I hope it’s helpful!

If you’ve been keeping up with Morale Fiber lately you’ll notice that videos have quickly become a regular feature and I hope to continue that trend – so like and subscribe to my channel if you don’t want to miss anything πŸ™‚

So without further yammering, here’s the video ❀

Have a truly wonderful day!

-MF

Tree of Life Mandala

Who doesn’t love trees?! Besides being one of the most successful life forms on Earth, trees are the lungs of our planet. Majestic and sometimes dangerous they are also, but I think one of the main reasons we humans have such a symbolic attachment to the Tree as a concept is that we tend to project ourselves onto them.

Gazing at the canopy – pictured in the Lotus Duster

With their roots-like-feet, their strong trunk torsos, and their reaching arms of branches, it’s easy to turn them into a metaphor against which we contrast our own sense of existence. They grow taller as they age, they occur in all environments, they group themselves together, and recent science has even discovered that they communicate with each other.

(There’s a great little article about tree communications here, referencing a book I’d quite like to read sometime)

Ancient photo of me, up a tree, wearing the Woodsman’s Wife Ruana

For me, it has always seemed natural to speak with trees. And yeah… to hug them. πŸ™‚ I’ve always felt that they had a Presence which ought to always be acknowledged and I’ve been drawn to tree and forest imagery my whole life. I was stoked when I found this adorable crocheted Tree of Life motif from 365 Crochet and instantly tried it out as a feature of one of my pixie belts. It’s quite an excellent little free pattern!

Pictured is Hickory, one of my original crocheted utility pocket belts. I have an in-depth tutorial series on how to make your own unique Pixie Pocket belt here on the blog and also available as a purchasable, ad-free PDF.

The Tree of Life concept occurs in several cultural stories. My familiarity with it came originally from Yggdrasil, the World Tree of Norse mythology that holds all the worlds from its roots to its branches. Since I’m so attached to this symbolism, I wanted to attempt my own crocheted version of the Tree of Life.

The Tree of Life mandala features an intricate central tree motif, worked in the round using a variety of crochet stitches. The intertwining branches are worked in layers, with double-treble stitches criss-crossing and forming the signature woven look of the Tree of Life symbolism. Though it looks complex, the central motif is easy when taken step by step, especially since the tutorial includes 50+ detailed tutorial photos with figure references to the written pattern!

Once I had honed my Tree pattern to satisfaction, I realized the mandala version would make a perfect dreamcatcher-style wall hanging and set about to providing this FREE tutorial for the project! You can also buy the downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF file for this crochet pattern from my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern Store.

I also hastened to create a video tutorial – you can find that for free here!

This one is made with Malabrigo Rios, which I am now hooked on.

I’ve got a few more concepts cooked up for this pretty little piece in the future that I’m very excited about πŸ˜‰ So be sure to subscribe to my blog and follow me on Facebook!

Tree of Life Mandala Wall Hanging

Materials:
4.50 mm hook
#4 worsted weight yarn in solid color – I used Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton
#3 or #4 weight yarn in accent color – I used King Cole Riot DK for the rainbow Tree and Malabrigo Rios for the autumnal Tree.
1 14” bamboo or wood hoop (I used an embroidery hoop from the hobby store)
Scissors & Tapestry needle

Stitches and Techniques:
Magic Ring – A short tutorial can be found under this pattern on my blog.
Hdc – half double crochet
Ch – chain
Sl st – Slip Stitch
Sc – Single crochet
Dc – Double crochet
Tr – treble crochet (YO x 2, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 loops x 3)
Dtr – double treble crochet (YO x 3, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 loops x 4)

Gauge: Not critical. The trunk of the tree should be about 1.25 inches in width and the tree itself should be about 4.5 inches tall from root to top branch after Round 3.

Notes:
The outer yarn used to border the Tree of Life can be #3 or #4 weight. If using a thick and/or stiffer #4 weight, check to make sure your piece isn’t getting too big for the hoop. You may need to omit a round of solid Hdc – the mandala needs to stretch tightly over the hoop once finished.

Instructions

Make Magic Ring – fig. 1

Fig. 1

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first hdc), 12 hdc into the ring – fig.2. Join with a sl st in the first hdc of the round. Tighten the ring to close – fig.3

Fig. 2

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Fig. 3

Rnd 2: Sl st in the next  st, 1 sc in the next st. (1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc) in the next st – fig. 4. 1 sc in the next st, sl st in ea of the next 2 sts – fig. 5. 1 sc in the next st, hdc in the next st. (1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc) in the next st. 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st. Sl st in the next st. – fig. 6

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

Rnd 3:  LIMBS: Sl st in the next 3 sts. – fig 7. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st – fig 8. Ch 2 – fig 9, 1 dc in the side of last dc. Ch 3 – fig 10. Slip stitch back down the side of the dc’s. (1st limb made) – fig 11. Sl st in the next st. *Ch 2 – fig 12, dc in the same st. (Ch 2, dc in the side of last dc) twice – fig 13. Ch 3. Slip stitch back down the sides of the dc’s, sl st in next st. – fig 14. (2nd limb made). Repeat from * for 3rd limb – fig. 15. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. Ch 2, 1 dc in the side of the last dc. Ch 3 – fig 16. Slip stitch back down the side of the dc’s (4th limb made) – fig 17. Sl st in the next 5 sts. – fig 18.

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Fig. 7

Fig. 8

Fig. 9

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Fig. 10

Fig. 11

Fig. 12

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Fig. 14

Fig. 15

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Fig. 17

Fig. 18

Rnd 3 Ct’d: ROOTS: *Ch 2, dc in the same st. – fig 19, Ch 3 – fig 20, slip st down the side of the dc – fig 21. Sl st in the next st. Rpt from * 3 more times. – figs 22-24. Sl st in the next 3 sts.

Fig. 19

Fig. 20

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Fig. 21

Fig. 22

Fig. 23

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Fig. 24

Rnd 4: Ch 5 – fig 25, sc in the ch-3 loop  at the top of the 1st limb – fig 26. Ch 3 – fig 27, double treble (dtr) in the middle of the 2nd limb – fig 2829. Ch 3 – fig 30, dtr in the middle of the 1st limb – fig 31. Ch 3, sc in the ch-3 loop at the top of the 2nd limb – fig 32. Ch 3, dtr in the middle of the 3rd limb – fig 33. Ch 3, dtr in the middle of the 2nd limb – figs 34-35. Ch 3, sc in the ch-3 loop at the top of the 3rd limb. Ch 3 – fig 36, dtr in the middle of the 4th limb – fig 40. Ch 3, dtr in the middle of the 3rd limb. Ch 3 – fig 41, sc in the ch-3 loop at the top of the 4th limb. Ch 5 – fig 42, sl st one st away from the base of the 4th limb. Sl st in the next 3 sts – fig 43.

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Fig. 25

Fig. 26

Fig. 27

Fig. 28 – YO 3 times to begin dtr

Fig. 29 – insert hook into the middle of 2nd limb, draw up a loop. (YO and draw through 2 loops) 4 times. Dtr made.

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Fig. 30

Fig. 31

A picture containing floor

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Fig. 32

A picture containing metalware, floor, ground

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Fig. 33

Fig. 34

A picture containing metalware

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Fig. 35

Fig. 36

A picture containing floor

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Fig. 40

Fig. 41

A picture containing floor, table, indoor

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Fig. 42

A close up of a rope

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Fig. 43

Rnd 5: Sl st up the ch sts on the side of the 1st root. Sl st into the ch-3 loop at the top – fig 44. Ch 3, (counts as first hdc + ch-1), hdc in the same space – fig 45. (Ch 3, 1 hdc in the next ch-3 loop. Ch 1, 1 hdc in the same sp) 3 times. Ch 8 – fig 46-47. (1 dc in the next ch-3 space between branches – fig 48, ch 2, 1 dc in the same space) 9 times – fig 49. Ch 8. Sl st in the 2nd ch of beginning ch-3 to join – fig 50.

Fig. 44

A picture containing metalware, floor, chain

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Fig. 45

A picture containing floor

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Fig. 46

Fig.47

A picture containing metalware, chain

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Fig. 48

A picture containing floor, table

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Fig. 49

Fig. 50

Rnd 6 (Change color): With new yarn, join in the 5th ch-2 space of previous round – positioning your hook in the middle of the branches. Ch 2 – fig 51 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same space. (4 hdc in the next ch-2 space) 4 times – fig 52.  10 hdc in the next ch-8 space – fig 53. (1 hdc in the ch-1 space of the next root. 3 hdc in the next ch-3 space- fig 54.) 3 times. 1 hdc in the next ch-1 space. 10 hdc in the next ch-8 space – fig 55. (4 hdc in the next ch-2 space) 4 times. 3 hdc in the next space, join with a sl st to the first hdc of the rnd – fig 56. – 70 sts

A chain on a table

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Fig. 51

A chain on a table

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Fig. 52

A picture containing table

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Fig. 53

A picture containing table, metalware, floor

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Fig. 54

A picture containing table, floor, sitting, metalware

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Fig. 55

A picture containing table, floor, indoor, metalware

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Fig. 56

Rnd 7: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 5 sts. 2 hdc in the next st – fig 57. (1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st – fig 58.– 80 sts

Fig. 57

Fig. 58

Rnd 8: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – fig 59 – 90 sts

Fig. 59

Rnd 9: Ch 1 (does not count), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – fig 60 -– 100 sts

Fig. 60

Rnd 10: Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch 1). Dc in the same st. (Sk next 2 sts, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc in the next st) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4.

Rnd 11: Sl st to the next ch-2 space. Ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch 2). Dc in the same space. (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc in the next space) around. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. – fig 61.

A picture containing table, floor, plate, ground

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Fig. 61

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for attaching – fig 62. Weave in other ends.

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Fig. 62

Attaching & Finishing

Using the long tail left from Round 11, thread yarn on a tapestry needle. Center your piece inside the hoop – fig 63.

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Fig. 63

Stitch the piece onto the hoop, making your needle pass around the hoop and under the last row of the piece, between the dc’s (not the chain spaces). Work the piece all the way around, adjusting tension and tightening as needed to create an even appearance. The piece will be stretched! – fig 64 – 66

A picture containing table, sitting, ground

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Fig. 64

A picture containing floor, table, indoor, sitting

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Fig. 65

A picture containing table, plate, floor

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Fig. 66

To make sure my tension is even, I like to cut another long strand of thread and go back over the piece in the opposite direction – fig 67. This is optional.

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Fig. 67

Border Round:
With new yarn, attach to a ch-2 space on Rnd 11. Working by inserting the hook under both the chain-2 space and under the hoop, YO and draw up a loop. Work 1 hdc around the hoop and the chain space. The entire border round works around the hoop – this can be a little tricky at first, but be patient! It gets easier. In the same chain space, work 1 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 1 dc, and 1 hdc – fig. 68. Sc between the next pair of dc’s – fig 69. *(1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc) in the next ch 2 space, 1 sc between the next 2 dc sts. Rpt from * around. – figs 70-71

A picture containing table, ground

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Fig. 68

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Fig. 69

A picture containing table

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Fig. 70

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Fig. 71

Join the final round with a slip stitch in the first hdc. Cut yarn and tie off, weave in all remaining ends. You could also add tassels, fringe, extra leaves (I have a good candidate, a free pattern for leaves), or charms to personalize your new Tree of Life wall hanging!

Thanks, trees. You guys are awesome.

Tree hugging in the Elf Coat

– MF