Elf Coat: Pointed Pockets

First things first! To see all available sizes of the FREE Elf Coat pattern, as well as all the available add-ons to this design, please visit the Elf Coat FAQ page for links ❀

During the process of updating the original Elf Coat Pattern, I decided it was finally time to make an Elf Coat of my very own! I’ve had this color of King Cole DK Riot “Funky” saved back specifically for this purpose for years – the colors feature warm purples, lavender, sage greens, olive and hints of fuschia – all my favorite colors πŸ™‚

I worked up a size Small in this colorway, partly to test out the new shoulder and hood shaping that was part of the big update – and also to keep my head in the game while my awesome pattern testers worked on the Elf Coat Plus Sizes pattern expansion which was just released. This whole design has had a lively life so far, and I can’t wait to see where you all take it in the future πŸ˜‰

While working, I also made some modifications on the skirt wedges that resulted in a larger skirt seamed to a smaller bodice – for more info on how to pull that off, I made a YouTube tutorial how-to! πŸ™‚

While making my personal version of the Elf Coat, I couldn’t help but try out my vision for a pointed pocket, inspired by the type of pixie pocket shape featured on Katwise’s (www.katwise.com) coats, which are responsible for helping inspire this design. I didn’t want to mess around with doing the inset pockets, so I decided that I could do the pointed shape and apply it directly to the outside of the coat after it was finished for an “afterthought” pocket. Keep scrolling for the FREE pattern for these cute pointed pockets for the Elf Coat πŸ™‚

I also added a sweet little faux fur trim to the hood – 6 rows of fuzzy yarn in LDC with a 3.50 mm hook and I will NEVER do something so crazy again, haha! πŸ˜› It was slow going, but I did eventually accomplish that faux fur and I’ll say now that it was worth it.

I also really love how the buttons came out – I had an assortment of detailed metal vintage buttons and I love the way they add interest and character ❀

I give each of these coats a name and a personality and I dubbed my own personal Elf Coat “Twig Nest” – for reasons πŸ˜€ I’m a hodge-podge, helter-skelter chaos artist and if I were a bird, my nest would be a dopey looking pile of twigs on the ground – but there’d be love in there πŸ™‚

Pointed Pockets Pattern

Following all yarn, hook, and gauge instructions from the original pattern.

With 6.50 Tunisian hook and main yarn:

Row 1: Ch 3. TSS in the 2nd chain from the hook and in the next ch st. RP – 3 sts

Rows 2-3: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 3 sts

Row 4: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Rows 5-6: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts

Row 7: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the last st. RP. – 7 sts

Rows 8-9: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts

Row 10: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.

Rows 11-12: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts.

Row 13: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts

Rows 14-15: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts

Row 16: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts

Row 17: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts

Row 18: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts

Row 19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts

Row 20: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts

Row 21: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts

Row 22: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next space, TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the last space, TKS in the last st. RP. – 21 sts

Row 23: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts

Row 24: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next space, TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the last space, TKS in the last st. RP. – 25 sts

Row 25: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next space, TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the last space, TKS in the last st. RP. – 29 sts

Row 26: TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next space, TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the last space, TKS in the last st. RP. – 33 sts

Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts, TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 11 sts, TKS dec over the next 2 sts, TKS in the last st. RP – 29 sts.

Row 28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts

Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts, TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 9 sts, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the last st. RP. – 25 sts

Rows 30-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts

Switch to 3.50 mm regular crochet hook.

LDC Row 1: Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st, inserting hook into the tunisian stitches as if to TKS (but working regular crochet instead). 1 LDC (Linked Double Crochet, see Stitches & Techniques section in the main pattern) in ea of the next 24 sts.

LDC Rows 2-3 : Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in each stitch across.

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing the pocket onto the coat.

Using the long yarn tail and tapestry needle, sew the pocket onto the outside of the finished coat using a whip stitch or your preferred seaming stitch.

I’ll be taking another long break from Elf Coats now, especially considering that I gloriously injured my shoulder while cranking out this particular coat! But no worries, there’s plenty more coming from your friendly neighborhood Mad Fiber Scientist…
-MF

Elf Coat Pattern: XL – 2XL/3XL

To see all available sizes of the FREE Elf Coat pattern, as well as all the available add-ons to this design, please visit the Elf Coat FAQ page for links!

It’s finally here you guys! This page contains the FREE PLUS SIZES pattern for the Elf Coat, my most popular pattern ❀ And it’s all thanks to you! Your encouragement, feedback, and testing (and of course LOVE) powered me through all the work necessary to get this design expanded for plus sizes. I simply can’t wait to see what you all make!

Although this pattern is written for XL and 2XL, the sizes are oversized, meaning that 2XL measurements cover the standard measurements for 3XL as well! Please see the Sizes section in the notes for more details on that πŸ˜‰ If you need a reference for the sizing standards I use, those can be found here!

The portable, printable, ad-free PDF for this crochet pattern is also available in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store – purchasing the paid version of this pattern is a great way to directly support my art! Or if you don’t need the PDF, consider leaving a tip in the Tip Jar if you feel it’s worth it! πŸ™‚

If you want to show off your awesome Elf Coat, have you joined our super nice and supportive Facebook Group, the Magic Fantastic Crochet Atelier? They (and I) would love to see your work!

Elf Coat Plus Sizes XL – 2XL / 3XL

Materials & Notes

6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook
King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic) – 17, 19 skeins
Pockets: 1 extra skein makes inset pockets, ~ Β½ a skein makes outside pockets.
Gauge for Riot DK: 9 sts & 10 rows = 2”
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 21, 23 skeins
Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”

Sizes: X-Large, 2XL/3XL. Pattern instructional variations are given for each size, in this order. Where no variation occurs, instructions apply to all sizes. Please see notes below the finished measurement section for more details.

Finished Measurements:
Measurements are approximate and given for the original gauge using Riot DK. Substituting a different yarn or gauge may result in different measurements.Waist: ~50β€³, 57”
Bust: ~50β€³, 57”
Hip: ~56β€³, 64”
Sleeve: 22β€³ (measured armpit to hem), 22”
Length: ~40β€³

Sizing Notes: This pattern is based on the number of wedges in the skirt, making 15 wedges (7 pointed, 8 simple) for the XL size, and 17 wedges (8 simple, 9 pointed) for the 2XL size. Please note that due to this incremental difference between all sizes (2 extra skirt panels per each size up) means that the Plus Sizes are actually oversized. This is why 3XL is included under 2XL – the 2XL is already bigger than the 3XL’s standard measurements based on this sizing system. Please be sure to measure your actual body size and compare to the measurements given for each size to determine which size to make. Bigger coats can also be adjusted to fit using the optional corset back lacing and belt tie additions included in this pattern.
Some parts of the pattern include areas where lengthening or shortening is an option (the bottom of the front & back panels, the height of the waistband, and the crochet trim). Please be aware that if you need the coat length adjusted these options are available!

Configuration of wedges on size Small

Size medium

Size Large

Notes on yarn, gauge, and sizing:

Yarn: I chose King Cole Riot DK yarn for this pattern because of its long color changes and pretty one-ply structure that makes the colors and the stitches well defined. The DK weight and 30% wool content creates a sleek and lightweight fabric that is also very warm. However, the big box hobby stores in the U.S do not carry this yarn – I get it from a UK website called LoveKnitting.com (which I highly recommend!).

So, I wanted to find a substitute yarn that is more commercially available and the closest I could find was Red Heart Unforgettable, which also looks gorgeous for this design. RH Unforgettable is 100% acrylic, which has the benefit of zero felting, and being allergy/vegan friendly. It is also a #4 weight yarn which means it will gauge differently.

Above: Panels made in Red Hear Unforgettable

Gauge: Since the two yarns gauge differently, I have listed the gauges for each yarn individually under the materials section. These are using the 6.50 mm hook listed. If you use Unforgettable following it’s gauge, you can get a slightly bigger coat using the same stitch counts listed in the pattern.

9 stitches = 2β€³ in Riot DK

10 rows = 2β€³ in Riot DK

8 sts = 2β€³ in RH Unforgettable. It’s really more like 8.5 stitches, but we’re calling it 8 because of stretch!

9 rows = 2β€³

 It’s also an option to change the hook size for Unforgettable to obtain the gauge given for Riot DK, if you want to use the alternate yarn but still get the size pictured.

NOTE FOR LEFTIES: If you are left-handed, your pattern pieces will be mirrored – for instance, your left panel for the torso of the jacket will be worked from the Right Panel pattern, and vice versa.

Techniques Used:

Chain (ch)
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) – stitch used for each coat piece. Tutorial can be found on my blog here:  https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Increase (TKS inc): Increasing in Tunisian Knit Stitch. Tutorial here: – https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Decrease (TKS dec): Decreasing in Tunisian Knit stitch – tutorial here: https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
Linked Double Crochet (LDC): Creating a row of double crochet that are linked in the middle. Tutorial here:  https://moralefiber.blog/2018/02/02/linked-double-crochet-tutorial/
Slip Stitch (Sl st): Used selectively for seaming
Whip Stitch: Sewing stitch made with a tapestry needle with yarn as thread, used for seaming.

Video Tutorials: I have created a playlist of video tutorials for working all the Tunisian stitches and other special techniques needed for this design, please refer to those on my YouTube channel at the link below! 😊
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i8JEaMwoXg&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJGbejoOm

Technique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful crochet technique and I love it and highly recommend learning if you haven’t. But since this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just rows of regular stitches with some increases and decreases – that’s really it) a different technique can easily be substituted in. As long as your stitches match the gauge given, you could work this pattern in regular single crochet or regular knit stitch.

One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet or one regular knit/purl stitch.

I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single crochet, and obtained a closely matching gauge using a 4.0 mm hook.

If you are working this pattern in a regular crochet stitch, keep in mind that Tunisian crochet does not ever turn, so your rows will be alternately β€œopposite” what the Tunisian instructions are. For instance, a piece that decreases at the beginning of every row in Tunisian, will alternately decrease at the beginning and decrease at the end for a regular, turning stitch.

Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does wonders for your finished piece, especially with Tunisian crochet which tends to curl naturally. Blocking for this piece can be done simply by laying your piece out on a foam mat, using blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat and pretty and in the right shape. Using a spray bottle and plain water, wet the piece, then let dry. This works great with wool based yarns (King Cole Riot DK) and moderately well with acrylics (RH Unforgettable).

If you have any questions about any of the info given above (it’s a lot!), please don’t hesitate to contact me via e-mail at moralefiber@yahoo.com or on my blog Pattern Help and Support page here:
https://moralefiber.blog/pattern-help-support/
Or via Messenger on my FB page here:
www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber

Now on to the pattern!

Instructions

The pieces of this coat can be made in any order.

Simple Wedge (Make 8, 8)

Both the simple wedges and the pointed wedges can be shortened by subtracting 8 rows right after the initial Row 1.

Ch 15.

Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches

Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15 sts

Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts

Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts

Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts

Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.

Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts

Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts.

Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts

Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts.

Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.

Pointed Wedge (Make 7, 9):

The point is formed by concentrating the increases in the center part of the wedge, with increasing frequency as the wedge gets larger. There are no decreases used to form the point. When the pointed wedge is finished and tied off, stretch the central point outward gently to fully accent the shape.

Ch 15.

Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches

Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 15 sts

Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts

Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts

Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts

Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts

Rows 20-27: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts

Row 28: TKS in the next 8 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts

Rows 29-32: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts

Row 33: TKS in the next 9 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts

Rows 34-37: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts

Row 38: TKS in the next 10 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. RP. – 25 sts

Rows 39-42: TKS across, RP. – 25 sts

Row 43: TKS in the next 11 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts. RP. – 27 sts

Rows 44-47: TKS across, RP. – 27 sts

Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts

Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts

Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts. RP. – 31 sts

Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts

Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. RP. – 33 sts

Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts

Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts. RP. – 35 sts

Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts

Row 58: TKS in the next 16 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. RP. – 37 sts

Row 59: TKS across, RP. – 37 sts

Row 60: TKS in the next 17 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts. RP. – 39 sts

Row 61: TKS across, RP. – 39 sts

Row 62: TKS in the next 18 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 41 sts

Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts

Row 64: TKS in the next 19 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 43 sts

Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts

Row 66: TKS in the next 20 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 45 sts

Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts

Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts

Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts

Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts

Row 71: TKS in the next 25 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 55 sts

Row 72: TKS in the next 26 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 57 sts

Row 73: TKS in the next 27 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 59 sts

Row 74: TKS in the next 28 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. – 61 sts

Row 75: TKS in the next 29 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts

Row 76: TKS in the next 30 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. RP. – 65 sts

Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts. RP. – 67 sts

Row 78: TKS in the next 32 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. RP. – 69 sts

Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts

Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Skirt Construction

Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges as shown, seam all blocks together with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn.

Waist length for the size Small.

After stitching the wedges, the stretch at the seams will add width to the length of the coat bottom. This will be corrected by the waist stitching later.

Skirt Border:

The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked Double Crochet, worked back and forth, with increases at the point of each pointed wedge.

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of the skirt hem.

Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at the point of each pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this increase.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each point where the increase was marked.

Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each ch-1 from the increase points of the previous row.

Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie off. You can work extra border here if you want the skirt longer!

Close-up of the increases placed at the point of each pointed wedge

WAIST:

The waist is worked directly onto the top of the wedges that make up the skirt. One stitch is skipped on every block, to create a slight decrease in width to accentuate the waist.

Waist size for Small

Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the line of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop from the foundation chain or first row of stitches using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 14, 16 times. RP. – 210, 238 sts

To modify the size here, add or subtract any rows after the first one to make it longer or shorter. To create inset pockets, see β€œPockets” Instructions, before completing the waistband. Outside pockets may be completed after the waistband is finished.

Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP. 

Bodice – Front & Back Panels

Note on Size for the Front & Back Panels:

All sizes work 26 rows of TKS before beginning to decrease and shape the collar and shoulder area.  You can add or subtract rows from the total of 26 in order to modify the length of the coat.

The bodice panels should reach from the shoulders down to cover the bust and end just under the bust line. However many rows you work, be sure to work the same amount of TKS rows in the beginning for each panel!

Back Panel:

The back panel is worked the length of stitches that equals half of the number of stitches in the waist. In size XL, the waist is 210 sts. Divided in half, that’s 105. In 2XL, the waist is 238 sts, divided in half that’s 119.

The completed Back Panel should be approximately 13.5 inches tall for XL, and 14.5 for 2XL. If you need a longer measurement here (should reach just below the bust), add more rows where indicated in the pattern.

Back panel, Small

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 105, 119

Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 104, 118 sts. Return pass (RP). – 105, 119 stitches

Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 105, 119 sts

Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2.

To increase length of the front & back panels, add more rows here.

Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 97, 111 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 103, 117 sts

Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 95, 109 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 101, 115 sts

Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 93, 107 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 99, 113 sts

Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 91, 105 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 97, 111 sts

Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 89, 103 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 95, 109 sts

Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 87, 101 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 93, 107 sts

Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 85, 99 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 91, 105 sts

Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 83, 97 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 89, 103 sts

Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 81, 95 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 87, 101 sts

Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 79, 93 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 85, 99 sts

Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 77, 91 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 83, 97 sts

Row 38: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 75, 89 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 81, 95 sts

Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 73, 87 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 79, 93 sts

Row 40: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 71, 85 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 77, 91 sts

Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 69, 83 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 75, 89 sts

Row 42: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 67, 81 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 73, 87 sts


Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 65, 79 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 71, 85 sts

Row 44: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 63, 77 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS I the next 2 sts. RP – 69, 83 sts

Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 61, 75 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 67, 81 sts

Row 46: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 59, 73 sts. TKs dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 65, 79 sts

Row 47: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 57, 71 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 63, 77 sts

Row 48: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55, 69 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 61, 75 sts

Row 49: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53, 67 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 59, 73 sts

Row 50: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 51, 65 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 57, 71 sts

Row 51: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 49, 63 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 55, 69 sts

Row 52: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 47, 61 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 53, 67 sts

Row 53: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 45, 59 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 51, 65 sts

Row 54: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43, 57 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 49, 63 sts

Row 55: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 41, 55 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 47, 61 sts

Row 56: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 39, 53 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 45, 59 sts

Row 57: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37, 51 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 43, 57 sts

Row 58: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 35, 49 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 41, 55 sts

Row 59: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 33, 47 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 39, 53 sts

Row 60: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31, 45 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 37, 51 sts

Row 61: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29, 43 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 35, 49 sts

Row 62: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27, 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33, 47 sts

Row 63: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25, 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 31, 45 sts

Row 64: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23, 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 29, 43  sts

Row 65: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21, 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 27, 41 sts

Row 66: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19, 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 25, 39 sts

XLs stop here and tie off, 2XLs proceed:

2XL Only

Row 67: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 37 sts

Row 68: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 35 sts

Row 69: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33 sts

Row 70: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 31 sts

Row 71: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 29 sts

Row 72: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 27 sts

Row 73: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 25 sts.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Front Panel – Right:

The front panels are worked with the length of stitches equaling the half of the waistband that the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two, so each panel will be a quarter of the total waistband stitches. For X-Larges, that’s 210 / 4 = 52.5. Since that’s not a whole number, I will round down to 52 and fudge the seam by one stitch. For 2X-Large, that’s 238 / 4 = 59. 5, again not a whole number so rounded down to 59.

The completed Front Panels should be approximately 13.5 inches in total length for XL, 14.5 for 2XL. If you need a longer measurement here (should reach to just below the bust), add extra rows where indicated in the pattern.

Front Panel, right, size small

Front Panels size medium

Front Panel, right, size large. Pictured is a panel with an alternate length of 38 rows in the beginning.

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 52, 59.

Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 50, 57 sts. Return pass (RP). – 52, 59 stitches

Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 52, 59 sts

Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2.

To increase length of the front & back panels, add more rows here.

Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 48, 55 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 51, 58 sts.

Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 47, 54 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 50, 57 sts.

Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 46, 53 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 49, 56 sts.

Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 45, 52 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 48, 55 sts.

Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 44, 51 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 47, 54 sts.

Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 43, 50 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 46, 53 sts.

Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 42, 49 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 45, 52 sts.

Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 41, 48 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 44, 51 sts.

Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 40, 47 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 43, 50 sts.

Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 39, 46 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 42, 49 sts.

Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 38, 45. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 41, 48 sts.

Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 37, 44 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 40, 47 sts.

Row 39: TKS in ea of the next 36, 43 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 39, 46 sts

Row 40: TKS in ea of the next 35, 42 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 38, 45 sts

Row 41: TKS in ea of the next 34, 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 37, 44 sts

Row 42: TKS in ea of the next 33, 40 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 36, 43 sts

Row 43:  TKS in ea of the next 32, 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 35, 42 sts

Row 44: TKS in ea of the next 31, 38 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 34, 41 sts

Row 45: TKS in ea of the next 30, 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 33, 40 sts

Row 46: TKS in ea of the next 29, 36 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 32, 39 sts

Row 47: TKS in ea of the next 28, 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 31, 38 sts

Row 48: TKS in ea of the next 27, 34 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 30, 37 sts

Row 49: TKS in ea of the next 26, 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 29, 36 sts

Row 50: TKS in ea of the next 25, 32 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 28, 35 sts

Row 51: TKS in ea of the next 24, 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 27, 34 sts

Row 52: TKS in ea of the next 23, 30 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 26, 33 sts

Row 53: TKS in ea of the next 22, 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25, 32 sts

Row 54: TKS in ea of the next 21, 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24, 31 sts

Row 55: TKS in ea of the next 20, 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23, 30 sts

Row 56: TKS in ea of the next 19, 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22, 29 sts

Row 57: TKS in ea of the next 18, 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21, 28 sts

Row 58: TKS in ea of the next 17, 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20, 27 sts

Row 59: TKS in ea of the next 16, 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19, 26 sts

XL stop here, resume at β€œAll Sizes”

2XL Only

Row 60: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25 sts

Row 61: TKs in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 sts

Row 62: TKs in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23 sts

Row 63: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22 sts

Row 64: TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21 sts

Row 65: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20 sts

Row 66: TKS in ea of the next 16 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19 sts

All Sizes:

Row 60, 67: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts

Row 61, 68: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts

Row 62, 69: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts

Row 63, 70: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts

Row 64, 71: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts

Row 65, 72: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts

Row 66, 73: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Front Panel – Left:

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 52, 59.

Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 50, 57 sts. Return pass (RP). – 52, 59 stitches

Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 52, 59 sts

Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2.

To increase length of the front & back panels, add more rows here.

Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 49, 56 sts. RP – 51, 58 sts.

Row 28: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 48, 55 sts. RP – 50, 57 sts.

Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 47, 54 sts. RP – 49, 56 sts.

Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 46, 53 sts. RP – 48, 55 sts.

Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 45, 52 sts. RP – 47, 54 sts.

Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 44, 51 sts. RP – 46, 53 sts.

Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 43, 50 sts. RP – 45, 52 sts.

Row 34: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 42, 49 sts. RP – 44, 51 sts.

Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 41, 48 sts. RP – 43, 50 sts.

Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 40, 47 sts. RP – 42, 49 sts.

Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 39, 46 sts. RP – 41, 48 sts.

Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 38, 45 sts. RP – 40, 47 sts.

Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 37, 44 sts. RP. – 39, 46 sts

Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 36, 43 sts. RP. – 38, 45 sts

Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 35, 42 sts. RP. – 37, 44 sts

Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 34, 41 sts. RP. – 36, 43 sts

Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 33, 40 sts. RP. – 35, 42 sts

Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 32, 39 sts. RP. – 34, 41 sts

Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 31, 38 sts. RP. – 33, 40 sts

Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30, 37 sts. RP. – 32, 39 sts

Row 47: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 29, 36 sts. RP. – 31, 38 sts

Row 48: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28, 35 sts. RP. – 30, 37 sts

Row 49: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 27, 34 sts. RP. – 29, 36 sts

Row 50: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 26, 33 sts. RP. – 28, 35 sts

Row 51: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25, 32 sts. RP. – 27, 34 sts

Row 52: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 24, 31 sts. RP. – 26, 33 sts

Row 53: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23, 30 sts. RP – 25, 32 sts

Row 54: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22, 29 sts. RP – 24, 31 sts

Row 55: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21, 28 sts. RP – 23, 30 sts

Row 56: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20, 27 sts. RP – 22, 29 sts

Row 57: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19, 26 sts. RP – 21, 28 sts

Row 58: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18, 25 sts. RP – 20, 27 sts

Row 59: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17, 24 sts. RP – 19, 26 sts

X-Larges stop here and resume at β€œAll Sizes”

2X-Large Only

Row 60: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. RP – 25 sts

Row 61: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. RP – 24 sts

Row 62: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. RP – 23 sts

Row 63: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. RP – 22 sts

Row 64: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. RP – 21 sts

Row 65: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. RP – 20 sts

Row 66: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. RP – 19 sts

All Sizes:

Row 60, 67: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts

Row 61, 68: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts

Row 62, 69: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts

Row 63, 70: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts

Row 64, 71: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts

Row 65, 72: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts

Row 66, 73: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Back & Front Panels and Adding the Skirt

Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch the sides of the panels together so that the long angles face each other. Stitch together the straight sides, but not the angles. Once the bodice is sewn together, line the flat bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach using a 5.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn by working a slip stitch through both pieces – you may also use a whip stitch seam here, but I prefer the slip stitch seam at the waist because it’s sturdier.

SLEEVE (Make 2):

The sleeves for all sizes begin with a 16-chain length, then work a portion of increases creating a slant that lines up with the slanted edge of the bodice. The sleeve then works decreases to size down for the main part of the arm (worked evenly), then increases again for the flared sleeve.

The former design placed the decrease portion at the ends of the rows, but the new 2.0 version is written so that the decreases are placed centrally, in the middle of the row. This allows the fabric to slant downward to follow the natural line of the shoulder. If you prefer working the old style, simply place the decreases at the ends of the rows instead 😊

Sleeve size small (old style decreases pictured)

Sleeve size large, new style decreases

Sleeve size small, with the new style of decreasing (above and below)

Ch 16.

Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts

Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts

Row 3: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 20 sts

Row 4: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 22 sts

Row 5: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 24 sts

Row 6: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 26 sts

Row 7: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 28 sts

Row 8: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 30 sts

Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts

Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 34 sts

Row 11: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 36 sts

Row 12: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 38 sts

Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts

Row 14: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts

Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 38 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts

Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 46 sts

Row 17: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 42 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts

Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 44 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 50 sts

Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 52 sts

Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts

Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 56 sts

Row 22: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 52 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 58 sts

Row 23: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 54 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 60 sts

Row 24: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 56 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 62 sts

Row 25: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 58 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 64 sts

Row 26: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 64 sts

Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 60 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 66 sts

Row 28: TKS in ea st across. RP – 66 sts

Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 62 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts.

Row 30: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts

Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 64 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 70 sts

Row 32: TKS in ea st across. RP – 70 sts

Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 66 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 72 sts

Row 34: TKS in ea st across. RP – 72 sts

Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 68 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 74 sts

Row 36: TKS in ea st across. RP – 74 sts

Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 70 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 76 sts

Row 38: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76 sts

Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 72 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 78 sts

Row 40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts

X-Larges Stop here, resume at All Sizes

2X-Larges Only

Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 74 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 80 sts

Row 42: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts

Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 76 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 82 sts

Row 44: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82 sts

Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 78 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 84 sts

Row 46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84 sts

Row 47: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 80 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 86 sts.

All Sizes:

Row 41, 48: TKS in ea of the next 29, 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30, 34 sts. RP. – 76, 84 sts


Row 42, 49: TKS in ea of the next 28, 32 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29, 33 sts. RP. – 74, 82 sts

Row 43, 50: TKS in ea of the next 27, 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 28, 32 sts. RP. – 72, 80 sts

Row 44, 51: TKS in ea of the next 26, 30 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27, 31 sts. RP. – 70, 78 sts

Row 45, 52: TKS in ea of the next 25, 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 26, 30 sts. RP. – 68, 76 sts

Row 46, 53: TKS in ea of the next 24, 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 14 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25, 29 sts. RP. – 66, 74 sts

Rows 47-87, 54 – 94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 66, 74 sts

Row 88, 95: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 60, 68 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 68, 76 sts

Row 89, 96: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68, 76 sts

Row 90, 97: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 62, 70 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 70, 78 sts

Row 91, 98: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 70, 78 sts

Row 92, 99: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64, 72 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 72, 80 sts

Row 93, 100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 72, 80 sts

Row 94, 101: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 66, 74 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 74, 82 sts

Row 95, 102: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 74, 82 sts

Row 96, 103: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 68, 76 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 76, 84 sts

Row 97, 104: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76, 84 sts

Row 98, 105: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70, 78 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 78, 86 sts

Row 99, 106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78, 86 sts

Row 100, 107: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 72, 80 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 80, 88 sts

Row 101, 108: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80, 88 sts

Row 102, 109: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 74, 82 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82, 90 sts

Row 103, 110: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82, 90 sts

Row 104, 111: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76, 84 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 84, 92 sts

Row 105, 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84, 92 sts

Row 106, 113: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 78, 86 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 86, 94 sts

Row 107, 114: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 86, 94 sts

Row 108, 115: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 80, 88 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 88, 96 sts

Row 109, 116: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88, 96 sts

Row 110, 117: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 82, 90  sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 90, 98 sts

Row 111, 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 90, 98 sts

Row 112, 119: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 84, 92 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 92, 100 sts

Row 113, 120: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 92, 100 sts

Row 114, 121: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 86, 94 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 94, 102 sts

Row 115, 122: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 94, 102 sts

Row 116, 123: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 88, 96 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 96, 104 sts

Row 117, 124: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 96, 104 sts

Row 118, 125: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 90, 98 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 98, 106 sts

Row 119, 126: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98, 106 sts

Row 120, 127: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 92, 100 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 100, 108 sts

Row 121, 128: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 100, 108 sts

Row 122, 129: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 94, 102 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 102, 110 sts

Row 123, 130: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 102, 110 sts

Row 124, 131: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 96, 104 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 104, 112 sts

Row 125, 132: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 104, 112 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Sleeve:

Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the piece. Seam together using a whip stitch, starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving toward the shoulder. At the underarm of the sleeve, leave 44, 51 rows unseamed on either side. Match the remaining opening to the front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows to cap the tops of the panels, overlapping the tops of the front & back panels by 4 stitches.

Sleeve seaming size small (old style sleeve pictured)

Sleeve fitting size Large, new style sleeve pictured. 4 of the 5 stitches at the top of the front panel are overlapped by the top 4 rows of the sleeve.

Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the front and back panels, using a one-to-one row/stitch ratio.

Close-up of the sleeve fitting.

Sleeve Border

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam where the sleeve is sewn together.

Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 times in the same stitch, inserting hook as if to TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join with a slip stitch in the top of the first dc.

Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first stitch and 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.

Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.

Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves longer here by adding extra border rounds of LDC.

Close-up of the sleeve border joining seam.

HOOD:

The hood is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete. This hood is has a very long point – it’s a lot of hood! If you prefer a slightly shorter hood, seed β€œHalf Hood” instructions below the regular hood instructions. Either size hood can be made and attached to any size Elf Coat.

Working a Shortened Hood (Formerly the Half Hood): This is the alternative to the full size hood design which conserves a little yarn. Like the full hood, it is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete and seamed. To shorten it somewhat, I removed one of the two non-increase rows after each increase row in the first part of the design. You can use either hood interchangeably when creating your coat, though, no matter which size you are making! To work the Shortened Hood, skip one of the two non-increase rows between each increase row for the first 76 rows written. Then, resume the Hood pattern as normal at Row 77.

Shortened Hood, above

Full Hood, above

Ch 3.

Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of the next 2 chain stitches. RP. – 3 sts

Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Rows 3-4: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts

Row 5: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next
3 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts

Rows 6-7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts

Row 8: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.

Rows 9-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts

Row 11: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts

Row 12-13: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts

Row 14: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts

Rows 15-16: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts

Row 17: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts

Rows 18-19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts

Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts

Row 21-22: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts

Row 23: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 19 sts

Rows 24-25: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 19 sts

Row 26: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 21 sts

Rows 27-28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts

Row 29: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 23 sts

Rows 30-31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts

Row 32: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 25 sts

Rows 33-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts

Row 35: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 27 sts

Rows 36-37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts

Row 38: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 29 sts

Rows 39-40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts

Row 41: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 31 sts

Rows 42-43: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 31 sts

Row 44: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 33 sts

Row 45-46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts

Row 47: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 35 sts.

Rows 48-49: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 35 sts

Row 50: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 37 sts.

Rows 51-52: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts

Row 53: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 39 sts

Rows 54-55: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 39 sts

Row 56: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 41 sts

Rows 57-58: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 41 sts

Row 59: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 43 sts

Rows 60-61: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 43 sts

Row 62: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 45 sts

Rows 63-64: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts

Row 65: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 47 sts

Rows 66-67: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 47 sts

Row 68: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 49 sts

Rows 69-70: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 49 sts

Row 71: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 51 sts

Rows 72-73: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts

Row 74: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 53 sts

Rows 75-76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.

Row 77: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in ea of the next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 58 sts

Rows 78-79: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts

Row 80: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 63 sts

Rows 81-82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 63 sts

Row 83: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp) 4 times. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts

Rows 84-85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts

Row 86: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 16 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts

Rows 87-88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 73 sts

Row 89: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts

Rows 90-91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts

Row 92: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 83 sts

Rows 93-94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts

Row 95: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 88 sts

Rows 96-97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts

Row 98: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 93 sts

Rows 99-100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 93 sts

Row 101: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 98 sts


Rows 102-103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts

Row 104: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 103 sts

Rows 105-106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 103 sts

Row 107: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 108 sts

Rows 108-109: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 108 sts

Row 110: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 113 sts

Rows 111 – 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 113 sts

Row 113: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 118 sts

Rows 114 – 115: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 118 sts

Row 116: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 123

Rows 117 – 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 123 sts

Row 119: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 128 sts

Rows 120-121: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 128 sts

Row 122: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 133 sts

Rows 123-124: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 133 sts

Row 125: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 138 sts

Rows 126-127: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 138 sts

Row 128: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 143 sts

Rows 129-130: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 143 sts

Row 131: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 148 sts

Rows 132-133: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 148 sts

Row 134: TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 153 sts

Rows 135 – 151: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 153 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Hood

Fold the large triangle down the center length so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other and the wrong sides are out.

Using stitch markers, count from the opening of the hood (the long side) 33 rows down on each side. Mark the 33rd row on each side.

With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, make a whip stitch seam starting at the point of the hood and seaming toward the opening of the hood.

Seam the hood until you reach the rows marked with stitch markers. Cut yarn. Turn your hood inside out so that the right sides are facing out again. This leaves 33 rows left unseamed on either side.

Shortened Hood pictured above

How did I get the number of rows to leave unseamed? It’s (8+8) to account for the small angled part on each side of the front panel, plus (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then (25- 8 = 17) to cover the portion of the top of the back panel not already covered by the cap of the sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded up to 66 to get an whole number when I halved it – so 33 rows left unseamed on either side of the hood.

The hood then is seamed to the collar of the garment (once all sleeves and bodice have been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching the points of the hood opening indicated by the red dots to the beginning of the collar on the front, also indicated by red dots.

Seam the hood around the collar opening, matching stitch for stitch.

Front Border and Closures

We’re almost done! Next up is to use four rows of LDC to add a border across the entire front opening, beginning with the hem, working up the opening of the garment, going around the edge of the hood, and working back down the other side of the front opening. After the third row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the buttons. For traditional buttonholes, stop to mark the placement after the second row.

Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of the skirt border rows.

Ch 3.

Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1 LDC in the side of each row across the next wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side of each row across the front panel, waist band, and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each LDC of the skirt border.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1. Traditional buttonholes, mark placement here.

Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2. Loop buttonholes, mark placement here.

Close-up of LDC border

Mark where your buttons will be on one side, and mark an equidistant space on the other side of the border for where you will place your loops or buttonholes. I began with one button/closure on the top and bottom edge of the waist band, then used this measurement (17 sts between each placement) to space the other buttons. I made five button placements total.

Once your button placements have been marked, begin the rest of the rows.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you reach a button/closure marker. If you are on the button side, keep working LDC’s. If you are on the closure side, there are two options: You can chain a couple stitches and skip over working a couple stitches, which creates a buttonhole within the band and a tighter closure. I opted to use a loop closure for the small, which leaves the front a little more open when buttoned.

If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big enough to fit the button through, then slip stitch in the same stitch. Continue working LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain loop at any point where a closure is marked.

If making traditional buttonholes, stop LDC and chain one before a marked stitch. Skip marked stitch and resume LDC until you reach the next marked stitch, repeat.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Stopping to chain a loop closure

Traditional buttonholes

After finishing the final border row, use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach each button at the marked location on the opposite side of the closures.

Weave in all loose ends. You may want to add the Corset Back Lacing, Pockets, or Belt Tie options available for this garment too!

Happy Magicking!
-MF

Acanthus Top Leafy Fringe

Recently I’ve been making a lot of halter tops (hello, 90 degree weather!) and my latest version of last summer’s debut pattern the Acanthus Top was so deep green and foresty that I had to add a little extra somethin’ somethin’..

That leafy fringe across the bottom utilizes the Quirky Leaf Motif, an element that was already included in the pattern, to add an extra border to help catch movement and swing on this cute summer top! I added the instructions for doing this leafy fringe border into the original pattern as an extra option, so everyone can enjoy πŸ™‚

The Acanthus Top is available as a PDF file for purchase in my Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop and includes instructions for all the elements seen on this example ❀ Best of all it’s available in sizes XS – 2XL!

This top is designed to be great for dancing – most of my personal halter tops end up being danced around in drum circles actually (although not as much lately – waiting patiently for July so I can do that again!) Since it’s such an easy top to move around in, it surely needed a fringe or hanging decoration to accent the joyful movement πŸ™‚

As always I made this halter top in shades of I Love This Cotton! (still looking for a perfect substitute for this yarn so I don’t have to shop at Hobby Lobby). #4 weight yarn makes this project quick and comfortable and I LOOOOOOOVE the wide shoulder straps on it, probably one of the most comfortable halter tops I’ve ever designed!

The leafy crochet necklace I’m wearing is an older FREE design of mine, the Ivy Crown, which you can find on my blog by following the link πŸ™‚ Both these comfy cotton goodies center around my Quirky Leaf Motif, a versatile little shape that you can crochet onto long chains.

I’m dreaming up more crochet halter tops as we speak, they are so fun and fast a #4 cotton yarn, it’s very addicting πŸ™‚

Even more so when you get to morph into your elf self for the occasion ❀ Have fun and stay safe out there – and remember to hydrate!

-MF ❀

Mandala Top Add-Ons Free Pattern

In my last post I was happy to re-release the premium Mandala Top crochet pattern as a FREE offering on my blog – that design was several years old at this point and I wanted to make it more widely available as it’s one of my all-time favorites! The Mandala Top also got a few additional features over the years, namely the cute bell-shaped Drop Sleeves option and the (absolutely essential IMO) Dress Extension which adds more length and flounce to the bottom of the tunic.

Anyway, the Mandala Top Free Pattern post ran a little long, so I’m doing the Mandala Top Add-Ons free patterns in this post! Keep scrolling to get the instructions for both of these features for all 4 sizes, or go to my Ravelry Store or Etsy Shop to get the all-inclusive portable, downloadable, ad-free version by purchasing the Mandala Top PDF!

This whole design looks superb with regular ol’ #4 worsted weight acrylics, and affordable yarn means you can easily create the most colorful mandalas you can imagine! I can’t decide if I love these more in color combos using spare yarn balls, or in single tone neutrals that go with everything ❀

Mandala Top Drop Sleeves

Materials:

5.00 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: #4 worsted weight – yardage given is in addition to the yarn required to complete the main body of the top.
Small, Medium, Large: 200 yds
X-Large: 285 yds
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Markers
Scissors

Gauge:

4 sts and 2 rows = 1” in dc

Notes: Instructions are given for working the sleeve directly onto the side of the top. For a tutorial on how to work the DCh stitch, refer back to the Mandala Top Pattern

Small, medium, and large instructions are the same, instructions for XL will appear as a secondary option, where differing.

Work the entire Mandala Top Pattern. For the straps, add extra DCh sts according to the sizes below:

Small & Medium: 10 extra DCh

Large: 15 extra DCh

X-Large: 20 extra Dch

 Do not weave in the ends of the straps, as you may want to adjust them later.

Pattern for Sleeves

Foundation: Attach yarn 6 sc sts away from the base of the strap at the back of the top – counting toward the armpit, not toward the neckline of the top.

Ch 1, work a sc in the same st. Insert hk into the side bar of the sc, then draw up a loop to begin the first DCh st. YO and draw through both lps on the hook – 1 DCh stitch made. Place marker in this st.

DCh 28 more sts. Insert hk through both side bar of last DCh st and through the stitch 6 sc sts away from the strap on the other side of the top. Draw up a loop, then YO and draw through both lps on the hk. Place marker in this stitch.

Working toward the armpit of the top, not toward the strap, work 1 sc in the next 16 (26) sts, sk the stitch where the front and back of the top are joined, work 1 sc in ea of the next 16 (26) sts. – 60, 80 sts.

The stitches you marked (the very first and very last of the DCh) DO NOT count as stitches for Rnd 1. Skip over them completely when working the instructions for the following round.

Rnd 1: Ch 5  β€“  counts as first tr + ch-1. (sk next st, tr in the next st, ch 1) 29, 39 times. Join with a sl st in the 4th ch of beg ch-5.

Rnd 2: Sl st into the next ch st. Ch 5 – counts as first tr + ch 1. (sk next st, tr in the next ch-1 space, ch 1) 29, 39 times. Join with a sl st in the 4th ch of beg ch-5.

Rnd 3.: Rpt Rnd 2.

Rnd 4: Sl st into the next ch-1 space. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc into the same space, ch 3. (2 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 28, 38 times. 2 dc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1, join with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

Rnd 5: Ch 3- counts as first dc. Dc into the same space, ch 3. (2 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 28, 38 times. 2 dc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1, join with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

Rnd 6: Rpt Rnd 5.

Rnd 7: Ch 4 – counts as first tr. Tr in the same space, ch 3. (2 tr in the next ch-3 space, ch 3) 28, 38 times. 2 tr in the next ch-3 space, ch 1, join with a hdc in the 4th ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 8: Rpt Rnd 7.

Rnd 9: Rpt Rnd 7.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Repeat foundation and rounds 1-10 on the opposite side. For the second foundation, join your yarn 6 sc sts from the base of the strap on the front side so that you maintain the RS facing. Weave in all ends.

Forming the Adjustable Ring

The adjustable ring draws the straps together in an X at the back of the top to keep them from falling off the shoulder from the additional weight of the sleeves; this design requires that extra length is added to the straps. Though the general guidelines for adding extra length is given, you may want to test the lengths first to check what fits best.

Step 1: With new yarn that is the same color as the straps, ch 6. Bring the straps together in the back and slip the chain around both straps. Join with a sl st in the first ch to form a ring that encircles the straps.

Step 2: Sc into the same stitch. Sc into ea of the next 5 ch sts. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc of the ring. Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in ends, making sure that the ring is not attached to either strap at any point.

Mandala Top Dress Extension

Materials:

5.00 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge

#4 Worsted Weight yarn (yardage given is in addition to amount needed to complete the main body of the top)
Smalls & Mediums: 200 yds
Larges & X-Larges: 275 yds
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Add more length and flounce to your mandala top by completing this extension pattern for the 3 extra rounds at the bottom of the garment.

Smalls  & Mediums Instructions:

Rnd 1: With RS facing, join new yarn in the 2nd ch-8 space from the dc2tog at the side of the top. Ch 7 – counts as first dc + ch 4. Dc in the same space, ch 7. *Dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 4. YO and insert hook under the next ch-4 space. Draw up a loop, YO, and draw through 2 lps on the hook – 2 lps left on the hook. YO and insert hook under next ch-4 space, draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk, YO again and draw through all 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made. Ch 4.* (Dc in the next ch sp, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 31 times.  Repeat from *to *. (Dc in the next space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 30 times. Dc in the next ch space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 4. Tr in the 3rd ch of beg ch-7. 132 chain spaces made.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) twice.* 2 dc in the next chain space, ch 4. YO and insert hk under the next ch-4 space. Draw up a loop, YO and draw through 2 lps on the hook – 2 lps left on the hook. YO and insert hook under the next ch-4 space, draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk, YO again and draw through all 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made. Ch 4. * (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 62 times. Rpt from * to *. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 60 times. 2 dc in the next chain space, ch 4, treble in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 130 chain spaces made.

Rnd 3: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) twice. .* 2 dc in the next chain space, ch 4. YO and insert hk under the next ch-4 space. Draw up a loop, YO and draw through 2 lps on the hook – 2 lps left on the hook. YO and insert hook under the next ch-4 space, draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk, YO again and draw through all 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made. Ch 4. * (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 61 times. Rpt from * to *. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 60 times. Sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 128 chain spaces made.

Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

Size Large Instructions:

Rnd 1: With RS facing, join new yarn in the 2nd ch-8 space from the dc2tog at the side of the to .Ch 7 – counts as first dc + ch 4. Dc in the same space, ch 7. *Dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 4. YO and insert hook under the next ch-4 space. Draw up a loop, YO, and draw through 2 lps on the hook – 2 lps left on the hook. YO and insert hook under next ch-4 space, draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk, YO again and draw through all 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made. Ch 4. *(Dc in the next ch sp, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 45 times.  Repeat from *to *. (Dc in the next space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 44 times. Dc in the next ch space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 4. Tr in the 3rd ch of beg ch-7. 188 chain spaces made.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) twice.* 2 dc in the next chain space, ch 4. YO and insert hk under the next ch-4 space. Draw up a loop, YO and draw through 2 lps on the hook – 2 lps left on the hook. YO and insert hook under the next ch-4 space, draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk, YO again and draw through all 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made (see fig 3). Ch 4. * (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 90 times. Rpt from * to *. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 88 times. 2 dc in the next chain space, ch 4, treble in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 186 chain spaces made.

Rnd 3: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) twice.* 2 dc in the next chain space, ch 4. YO and insert hk under the next ch-4 space. Draw up a loop, YO and draw through 2 lps on the hook – 2 lps left on the hook. YO and insert hook under the next ch-4 space, draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk, YO again and draw through all 3 lps on the hook – dc2tog made. Ch 4. * (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 89 times. Rpt from * to *. (2 dc in the next chain space, ch 8) 88 times. Sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 184 chain spaces made. Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

X-Large Instructions:

Rnd 1: With RS facing, join new yarn to any ch-8 space. Ch 7 – counts as first dc + ch . Dc in the same space, ch 7. (Dc in the next space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 7) 91 times. Dc in the next ch space, ch 4, dc in the same space, ch 4. Tr in the 3rd ch of beg ch-7. 194 chain spaces made.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 192 times. 2 dc in the next ch space, ch 4, tr in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. 194 chain spaces made.

Rnd 3: Repeat Round 2.

Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

That’s it for this re-release! It’s been so much fun revisiting this pattern and setting up this design to become free and available to everyone, not the least because it’s an excuse to make new versions πŸ˜‰ If you have any questions about this design please leave me a comment or contact me directly through messages on any of my social media sites!

One more mention before I go – I started playing around with the Mandala Top design after I had finished it to see about adding sleeves and making it a sweater (those are my first drafts below)…

… which after some tweaking and changing things a bit, led directly to the Flower Child Pullover design, a paid PDF pattern in my Ravelry and Etsy stores – in case you’re interested πŸ˜‰

-MF

Cottage Vest

I’m so pleased to have finally arrived at yet another pattern debut! This design has a bit of a backwards history, since it originally started as a draft for a more complicated pattern (much like my Priestess Coat) – but turned out to have such a different silhouette and structure from the final version, I eventually had to go back and re-engineer it for release as a separate design.

Little did I know this piece would really catch people’s eye when I wore it in some photos for other crochet patterns, and demand was high enough that I set myself to the task of writing it sometime last year – back in August I think? Well, I needed to pin down juuuuuuust the right fit, and write out six total sizes, then get them tested by an awesome group of pattern testers – so here we finally are!

The Cottage Vest is available for purchase as a downloadable, printable PDF in my Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop. Read on for more details about this original crochet pattern or follow the links to get the pattern directly πŸ™‚ As always, thank you all so much for your continued support of my art!

Cottage Vest Crochet Pattern

This figure flattering circular vest packs all the charm of the simple life into an easily-constructed and quick crochet project you won’t be able to stop layering over sweet sundresses, plain tees, strappy summer halters or even your favorite overalls πŸ˜‰ Featuring button-front panels that cradle the bust and a whimsical pointed back, this design is great for any #4 weight yarn and includes lots of instructions for getting the perfect fit!

I drew inspiration everywhere from Turkish vests to dirndls to hobbits to get just the right silhouette on this versatile layering piece which includes instructions for six total sizes XS – 2XL, detailed stitch instructions, and notes on how to modify the front portion and front panel placement for customizing fit – and of course lots of tutorial photos! The Cottage Vest is right at home whether you’re dressing up for Ren fairs, for dancing or just for puttering around the Shire.

Materials Needed:
5.50 mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)Lion Brand Pound of Love (#4 weight yarn, 454 g / 1020 yd, 100% Acrylic) – 1 skein
OR
XS-SM: 250 yds
MD-LG: 350-375 yds
XL-2XL: 400-450 yds
(yardage approximated)

4-5 buttons, 1.5 – 2” diameter
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Scissors

Finished Measurements (Bust, Length from Collar to Center back point).
XS: 26”, 18”
SM: 28”, 19”
MD: 32”, 21”
LG: 36”,  22”
XL: 40”, 23”
2XL: 44”, 24”

***Note on Sizing: Measurements given are approximate for finished garment laying flat –  this does not take into account the stretch of the piece. The Cottage Vest is designed for an β€œundersized” fit that supports the bust and therefore the measurements for each size’s overall width is made smaller than standard to serve that purpose. However, the pattern easily accommodates how to add more rows to expand the width if necessary; this is written into the instructions for the rounds after the armholes and for the  Front Panels.

Language: English
Pattern is written in US crochet terminology.

I think I must have made about 20 of these things getting the pattern ratios right! The really nice thing about them is that they look great with cheapie acrylic worsted weight yarn, so you don’t have to rush out and get a special yarn or worry much about matching a substitute yarn – what you need is likely already in your stash πŸ™‚

But for now, I’m off to dig in the dirt a little and enjoy this lovely spring weather πŸ˜‰

-MF

Sol Halter Top Updates

The weather has been turning my mind toward hot sunny days – indeed, it was up to almost 70 in the sunshine yesterday – and this inevitably results in crocheting halter tops! I’ve started toying with a new design recently but couldn’t resist diving into some old patterns too. After all, I had a half-finished update for the Sol Halter top sitting in my computer files, giving me the side-eye after being pushed toward the bottom of the to-do list for a couple years.

So today I uploaded the finished pattern update for my Sol Halter Top pattern, the very first halter top I ever published (it was 5 years ago now… OMG). The pattern needed some extra tutorial photos in one of the trickier areas, and I clarified some of the language and just generally tried to give it a spring cleaning πŸ™‚ I’m very happy with the result!

You can purchase the newly updated Sol Halter Top pattern (straight sizes, for A, B & C cups) in my Ravelry Pattern Store or Etsy Shop now! Keep reading for more info on this design as well as some cool mods…

Of course I made one or two actual halters in the process of updating, and in the last few years my strategies have changed from using straight tie-back style straps, to the more comfortable criss-cross backing as in the Basic Bralette, the Valkyrie Top, and the Feather & Scale Halter. I didn’t feel committed to changing the strap style entirely within the PDF pattern itself, so I’m offering these modifications right here on the blog, so keep reading for more info on this design and how to modify it ❀

What I really like about the Sol Halter top design is the cup style. The halter top starts by creating a long base for the underbust, then creates two equidistant points on which is centered a series of increases, and also stitch height changes (if you are working B-C cup sizes, A cups continue in the same height of stitch).

The combination of increases and height changes creates an actual bulge in the material which is form-fitting to the bust. Many other central-motif style halter tops work rows of back-and-forth stitches that create a basically flat piece of fabric for the torso, which merely wraps around and compresses. That method is pretty and fairly simple, but I find that my method – which occurs also in my Mehndi Halter Top pattern and my Valkyrie Top pattern – is really comfortable and doesn’t result in major slippages on the bust while wearing. I consider it my signature strategy for halter top making!

Besides the bust portion itself, the mandala motif in the center of the Sol pattern also includes an expansion for C-cups which gives a little extra room between the motif and the main body of the halter. Once the motif is attached, I like the clever way that the stitching goes right on to work the edging and the straps without having to cut yarn and tie off.

Pictured above: C-Cup size Sol Halter Top with modified straps
Pictured above: original straps from the PDF pattern

While the original PDF file only includes instructions for straight ties (one pair for the neck, one pair for the bust) I have moved away from this style for myself personally since I don’t like the pressure of the ties on my neck. Instead, I follow the first portion of the instructions for the edging until reaching the lower portion of the side bottom:

Instead of single crocheting across the entire side, I create a series of loops (about ch 20 sized) intermittently. I normally do 2 loops, but I got extra and did 3 for this top. Once your ch-20 loops are placed (about 3-4 single crochets apart, with no skips in between), you can move right into rotating the piece and working the bottom edging as directed.

Mirror those loops on the other side of the halter, then complete the edging by working the rest of the single crochets up the side. Follow the directions as written for working across the top of the motif, but instead of using the “ch 75, sc back down” style tie, you’ll want to chain 175 – 250 (depending on your band size – these are chain 200 size ties and work well for a size Medium gal) and SLIP STITCH back down the chain length, not single crochet. Do this for both ties on the top. I changed over to working slip stitch cords really shortly after writing the Sol and Mehndi patterns, as I find they are rounder and more comfortable and work better for lacing back and forth.

Once your ties on top are completed, finish off the edging round as directed. You can stop here, but I had some extra yarn left over and I like a nice substantial bottom band so I rejoined my yarn at the bottom of the halter and worked 3 extra rows of single crochet back and forth to add a little more coverage!

To tie on this criss-cross back style, the straps go over the shoulders and then cross, lacing into the first loops, and then lacing back and forth through the second loop (or as many as you have) before tying. With just a bit of adjustment to make sure everything is even, this style of lacing is really secure and comfortable – and I don’t know about you, but I love feeling free to romp and roam in my magical crochet-wear without having to re-tie and tug around at the garment all the time!

I hope you enjoyed this little exploration of one of my keystone designs and are inspired to try it out for yourself – I think I’ll be making more halter tops from the Morale Fiber vaults this season, so hopefully there will be more to come. Until then, have you checked out these great FREE tutorials? πŸ™‚ ❀

-MF ❀

Elf Coat Updates

I’ve been working super hard since fall to expand, update, and improve my popular Elf Coat design and today I’m so pleased to announce that I have rolled out the updates for the new Elf Coat Pattern regular sizes (version: 2.0)!

All of these updates have been applied to both the FREE blog versions of the pattern and to the purchasable PDF version, and the links to all of these can be found on the FAQ page for this design πŸ™‚ Or keep reading to see what the updates entail!

These new updates include a re-shaped sleeve portion, which fixes some of the bunching issues that were occuring in the armpit area of the old style sleeve. I moved the decreases to the center of the row so that the sleeve follows the downward curve of the shoulder more naturally:

The old style of Hood also needed some work (and the Half Hood even MORE work) – so the Hood has been expanded and updated so that both styles of hood are plenty roomy and big enough, with notes on how to modify!

Honestly though, this pattern was in desperate need of something brand new : POCKETS!! Thanks to some help from fellow crocheter Tirzah, a basic pocket pattern was developed and then implemented in two different styles: Afterthought Pocket (applied to the outside) and Inset Pocket (hidden in the waistband)!

Photo courtesy of Tirzah Norton-Shantie


The pockets were absolutely necessary for carrying magical items, woodland treasures, and sedition – but I thought with the larger sizes being kind of oversized, there needed to be a belt option too, for extra cinching capacity.

Size Large, finished & laid out for blocking

Of course, all the extras are included in the PDF pattern file as part of the written pattern and are available in free pattern format on my blog via the links I mentioned at the beginning of the post. I’ll have to make a “deluxe” Elf Coat at some point for myself so that I can include all the options mentioned here on one coat – not forgetting that sweet corset back lacing option…)

Last but certainly not least, I have paid to get this pattern professionally translated into Spanish! I was lucky enough to find a great Spanish translator to work with who speedily took care of all of my new Elf Coat updates and created a beautiful PDF pattern file available for purchase in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store.

I’ve still got some work to do with this design, including getting that neatly finished Large Size properly modeled and photographed, and the Plus Sizes are currently in the testing phase meaning that more updates will be coming soon for the expanded sizing! You know what I always say…

Until Morale Improves, the Crocheting Will Continue!

-MF ❀

Elf Coat Pockets

Update! : To see all available sizes of the FREE Elf Coat pattern as well as all the add-ons to the design, please visit the Elf Coat FAQ page for links!

One thing my popular Elf Coat Tunisian Crochet Pattern really needed was some pockets! We all love to have a place to stash our woodland treasures, quest items, and sedition, so I’ve provided here a tutorial on how to create & apply both “Afterthought” pockets – easy and applied on the outside after finishing the coat – or “Inset” pockets, which are more advanced and are placed on the inside of the coat through an opening created at the waistband. All the same pattern specs such as gauge, hook size, and yarn from the original pattern (linked above) can be applied here, so let’s get right on into the instructions!

Pockets (Make 2 for Afterthought pockets- Make 4 for Inset pockets)

Pocket pattern developed from design by Tirzah Norton-Shantie – thanks Tirzah! 😊

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To add pockets to the outside of the garment, create 2 matching pieces and sew them on after the coat is finished. To create inset pockets, make 4 matching pieces from the pattern below, then follow Inset Pocket Waistband instructions.

Ch. 19

Row 1: Pick up a loop from ea of the next 18 ch sts. RP. – 19 sts

Row 2: TKS in the next 8 sts, TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp.  TKS in the next 9 sts. RP.  -21 sts

Row 3-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts

Row 11: TKS dec over the next 2 sts, TKS in next 7 sts, TKS inc in next sp, TKS in next st. TKS inc in next sp, TKS in next 7 sts. TKS dec over next 2 sts, TKS in last st. RP. – 21 sts

Row 12-16: TKS in ea st across. RP – 21 sts

Row 17: Repeat Row 11

Row 18-26: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts

Row 27-29: Rpt Row 11
Cut yarn and tie off.

If working outside / afterthought pockets, then work the following LDC rows onto the top of each pocket. Outside pockets can be sewn on after construction.

tirzahpocket

Photo courtesy of Tirzah Norton-Shantie

 If working inset pockets, the LDC rows will be worked later so skip them for now.

Row 30-31 (LDC ROWS): Attach yarn to the top edge of the pocket piece. Ch 3 (does not count as first st). 1 LDC in the same st and in ea st across, inserting hook through each stitch as if to TKS. – 19 sts.

Inset Pocket – Waistband

If working inset pockets, complete 4 pocket pieces (without the LDC rows) and seam each pair together with the wrong sides facing, leaving top open.

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To leave an opening at the waistband for inset pockets, there are two choices. The easier option is to complete the entire waistband as instructed and leave a 19-stitch long opening on each side of the garment when seaming together the waistband and the bottom of the Front & back panels.

The more advanced option is to work a set-in pocket in the middle of the waistband. To do so, familiarize yourself with both the Foundation Tunisian Technique here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haU59Ss8Hsw&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJGbejoOm&index=2

And with the β€œAdding Length” technique which utilizes Foundation Tunisian, instructions here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bsg54HL156M&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJGbejoOm&index=7

When working the waistband mark off where you will place your inset pockets on either side, then create a 19-stitch long Foundation Tunisian chain at that place (detailed in tutorial photos below). Resume regular TKS until reaching the other pocket point, then repeat for that opening. Return Pass as normal, then work the rest of the rows as normal.

Working Tunisian Foundation in the middle of the waistband for an inset pocket:

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TKS until reaching the portion you wish to leave open for inset pocket.

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Insert hook into the back of the next st – under the loop highlighted in green.

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Draw up a loop from this stitch to begin your Foundation Tunisian chain. Complete 19 Tunisian Foundation stitches.

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Once foundation length is complete, skip the appropriate number of stitches on the row below and resume TKS as normal.

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Once the entire waistband is complete, locate your two openings. With the two seamed-together pockets, sew the pocket openings into the opening created in the waistband or at the bodice/waistband seam.

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Insert pocket envelope into opening

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Align the edges and whip stitch together with tapestry needle and yarn.

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Attach new yarn and work the Linked Double crochet (Rows 30-31) over the bottom seam of the pocket, working through both the garment layer and the bottom layer of the pocket. Seam this row up the side of the pocket when complete, overlapping the top to hide the opening.

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View of the inset pocket from the inside of the coat.

Now, go fill your pockets! πŸ™‚
-MF

Winter Poncho Pattern

True to form, I’ve circled back around to reworking an older design at almost the exact anniversary of it’s original release. Five years ago in January I released the Boho Fringe Poncho as my tenth paid pattern. Today, I’d like to introduce this same design as it’s been reformatted, tweaked for improvements, and released FOR FREE here on the blog!

You can still get the updated crochet pattern as a PDF in my Ravelry and Etsy stores, or keep scrolling for the free pattern (which includes everything in the PDF)

I really enjoy revisiting my patterns to make sure that they are the best that they can be, and this is kind of a constant task as I’m always trying to grow and improve my skills as a pattern designer. Sometimes I just have more to offer in terms of technical assistance – additional tutorial photos were a MUST with this piece – and sometimes I believe that the form & content of the design makes it a good candidate to be re-released for free (the Rhiannon Cowl is another great little project of mine that started as a paid PDF and then debuted on the blog as a free version!)

In this case, I considered just about every aspect of the pattern needed attention πŸ˜‰ Including the name! While I liked “Boho Fringe” it just didn’t really fit the nature of the poncho. This piece is a Big Booty Judy, made with thick warm woolen yarns, post stitches, and a cozy fit that hugs your shoulders for extra warmth. Realizing that its thicc qualities made it a perfect item to have in the coldest months I decided to rename it – the Winter Poncho!

This is a wonderful project for using up bulky or super bulky scraps (see the notes for more about yarn substitution), it uses large hook sizes so that the project works up quickly, and it’s waaaaaaarm πŸ™‚

Winter Poncho Crochet Pattern

Materials

7 skeins Bernat Roving (#5 weight, 100 g / 120 yds, 80% Acrylic, 20% Wool) – all solid-colored examples are made with this recommended yarn, the multi-colored examples are made with a mix of bulky and super bulky weight scrap yarns!
9.00 mm hook, 11.5 mm hook
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Techniques Used

Chain (ch), Double Chain (dch), Double Crochet (dc), Slip Stitch (sl st), Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc), Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc) (click the links for tutorials!)

Measurements (approximate): 40” circumference at the top, 54” circumference at the bottom, 18”long (not including fringe)

Gauge:

4 sts & 3 rows = 2” in alternating fpdc/bpdc for 9.00 mm hook, 3 sts & 3 rows = 2” in alternating fpdc/bpdc for 11.5 mm hook.

Notes:

The chain-2 at the beginning of every round does not count as the first stitch of the round. When joining rounds with the slip stitch, skip the ch-2 entirely and join into the first fpdc of the round.

I have recommended Bernat Roving for this project, which is a #5 weight yarn but it gauges somewhere between a bulky yarn and a super bulky yarn. Some of my Winter Ponchos have mixed #5 & #6 weight yarns, which works pretty well –  but be sure to follow gauge if you substitute yarns!

The Winter Poncho is closed at the top with a drawstring, but the rest of the shape is dictated by hook size and follows the same number of stitches through every round. If you need a wider poncho, evenly place an even number of increases at Round 10 in order to size up.

Two types of fringing is offered in this pattern, the Double Chain Fringe of the original design, and the regular fringe which I have been favoring lately – both types are included in the instructions.

Poncho (Main Body)

Starting with the 9 mm hook, dch 80. Join with a slip stitch to form a ring, making sure not to twist.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, dc in the same stitch as join. (1 dc in the next st) 79 times. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. – 80 sts

Rnd 2: Ch 2, fpdc in the first dc of the last round, bpdc in the next dc. (1 fpdc in the next st, 1 bpdc in the next st) 39 times. Join with a sl st in the first fpdc of the round – 80 sts

Rnds 3: Ch 2, fpdc in the first fpdc of the last round, bpdc in the next bpdc. (1 fpdc in the next st, 1 bpdc in the next st) 39 times. Join with a sl st in the first fpdc of the round.

Rnds 4 – 10: Rpt Rnd 3.

Switch to the 11.5 mm hook, then continue in pattern for rounds 11-27.

Rnds 11 – 27: Rpt Rnd 3.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Double Chain Drawstring

Double chain a length of 60” (about 120 DCh stitches) with your main yarn. Cut yarn and tie off. Weave this cord through the first row of post stitches at the top of the poncho, going underneath each FPDC and over each BPDC. Finish the ends with either a stranded fringe, tassel, pompom, or whatever you like!

To work the double chain, see my tutorial post here.

Double Chain Fringe

The double chain fringe offers a bolder fringed look than the regular stranded yarn fringe, and copies the original inspiration piece for this design. For a humbler decoration, see the instructions for traditional fringe.

Using the 9.00 mm hook, dch 25- 45 sts or about  10 – 20” of unstretched double chain cord, depending on how long you want your chain fringe. Cut yarn and tie off. Make 19 more double chain cords of about the same length.

When you have twenty cords total, weave in all the yarn ends if you want a very neat fringe. Leave the yarn tails hanging down a bit for a more organic fringe.

If you survived the tedium of end-weaving, the next step is to double up the cords so that ends are together and a loop forms in the middle. Push that loop through the top of a fpdc stitch (NOT through the post) on Rnd 27 (the larger end of the piece).

Insert the ends of the double chain cord through the loop and draw them to tighten.

Repeat with the 19 other fringe cords, placing them every 2nd fpdc stitch so that there is 1 non-fringed fpdc between every fringed one. 

Weave in all ends.

Stranded Fringe

For a traditional fringe, get a book or length of cardboard 6” wide. Using your yarn of choice, wrap your yarn around the width 80 times, then cut one side to leave a bundle of 12” strands.

Double your strand over and use the loop at the end to thread the two loose ends through each crochet stitch around the border of the poncho.

Once you’ve put the finishing touches on your Winter Poncho, make sure all your ends are woven in before scurrying out into the cold!

I think the saying goes “Make new patterns but keep the old; one is silver, the other is gold!” Or something like that anyway πŸ˜‰

-MF

Woodsman’s Wife Ruana Update – with Pockets!

This classic pattern of mine from 2015 looked like the perfect project for my consistently-freezing self to whip up a few weekends ago, using a small stash of inherited yarn…

believe it or not, I meant to make that face

And as I am wont to do, I thought of some things this design needed – like pockets! And a little sprucing up of the PDF couldn’t hurt, and the written specs really weren’t up to scratch. Long story short, my “quick weekend project” turned into a total refurbishing of the Woodsman’s Wife Ruana, and I’m so happy I did because it’s a much-loved oldie but goodie and it deserved a makeover ❀

You can get the brand-new updated PDF pattern now in my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Store! Thank you for your support ❀ ❀

My “pocket shawl” version of this ruana / scarf / hood / blanket / thing hybrid was actually made with Lion Brand Homespun (#5 weight) held double, as a substitute for the Lion Brand Homespun Thick & Quick (#6 weight) called for in the pattern. Unfortunately I don’t know the colors used, because I got them from a destash, but I do know it took 11 skeins, and I switched the colors out individually by strand instead of at the same time, to get the faded effect πŸ™‚

I love the new version, especially the cozy pockets! Keep reading to find the details on the new PDF pattern:

This big cushy crocheted version of the traditional ruana features crochet ribbing, a pixie pointed hood, and alternate sizing instructions to make anything from a slim belted wrap to an extra-wide cape-style coverup, and now has instructions for pockets as well!

The main body is worked flat in one whole piece, while the hood is worked separately in one piece and then seamed together. Made with a super bulky yarn and a 11.50 mm hook, this wrap works up quickly and feels super cozy. Wear it belted, over-the-shoulder, or add buttons or ties for a closed vest style.

The pattern for this versatile, convertible wrap includes alternate sizing instructions, construction charts, and detailed written instructions. The Woodsman’s Wife Ruana is a great Easy level pattern for crocheters ready to move on from hats and scarves and includes all the instructions you need to make this fantasy piece for autumn!

Materials:
Yarn: Lion Brand Homespun Thick & Quick, #6 Super Bulky, 160 yds / 6 oz, 170 g – 88% Acrylic 12% Polyester)– 5 skeins (7 – 9 skeins for expanded sizes)
Alternative: Regular Lion Brand Homespun held double (#5 Bulky, 185 yds / 6 oz, 170g – 98% Acrylic, 2% other) – 11 skeins
Please note that you may need more yarn if you customize the size by adding rows, given optionally in the notes.
11.5 mm (P) hook
Yarn needle, scissors
Button & yarn in coordinating color, 5.00 mm hook and/or ribbon (all optional, if adding fastenings)

Finished Measurements:
Main Body: 72” Long unfolded, 36” long when hanging from body. Width is optional.
Hood: about 13” x 13” after folding and seaming, laid flat.

As you can see I’ve made a few of these over the years and even made a closed robe style once – I took notes on how I did it, even though they’re really rough and don’t have accompanying photos, and you can find that on this old blog post here.

I’ve done a lot of remodeling with my older designs lately, and I do have more on my list – I make a point to keep my designs updated as I grow and learn from my business and as styles and demands change ❀ It’s one of the many benefits of buying from independent crochet designers, and I thank you all for making it possible!

-MF

P.S- the faux fur hat I am wearing in some of the newer photos is my free crochet pattern for the Ushanka Hat ❀ Check it out!