Rhiannon Cowl Crochet Pattern

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Eons ago (it seems) I designed a hooded cowl that was both simply constructed and could be worn several different ways. It started as just a scrap-buster, and I made a couple with random yarns and colors. The result was a fun project that was easy enough for beginner crocheters but was more interesting than just a plain old scarf. I dubbed it the Rhiannon Cowl after one of my favorite mythological deities.

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And yeah, after the song too. Although I’m enough of a fantasy nerd that I knew about the goddess before I knew about the pop song.  But I digress.

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That was 2015. It didn’t take long before my pattern writing style changed, and I started rebooting some of my older files – the Rhiannon Cowl has been on the makeover list for a LONG time, partly because I have intended to make it available for free.

Today I’m excited to finally be both making over the pattern file AND releasing this crochet pattern here for free on my blog! Keep reading for the FULL pattern PLUS tutorial photos, or get the spiffy new downloadable, ad-free file now available in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store πŸ™‚ 

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I’ve made a couple changes to the pattern itself – I eliminated the #5 bulky weight instructions in favor of adding a new size: Large. This size is easier to wear doubled up (the Small can be a little tight that way) and will be wearable as a vest for a wider range of bodies.

I also got rid of the specific yarn requirements. I’ve always thought this pattern looks best as a scrap-buster and so I’ve left the yarn requirements general to reflect that – I used *mostly* worsted weight but some bulky weight sneaked in too and I think it looks great that way πŸ™‚

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I hope you like this fun, quick, fantasy inspired project as much as I do (now that its been gussied up) ❀

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Materials:
5.00 mm hook
500-800 yds worsted weight yarn – spare yarns work great for this piece!
Scissors
Tapestry Needle

Gauge: 6 sts and 3 rows = 2”

Finished Measurements:
Small- Approx. 72” circumference at the front
                ~ 40” circumference at the back
                ~ 15” wide
Large- Approx. 90” circumference at the front
                ~ 50” circumference at the back
                ~15” wide

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Stitches and Abbreviations:

st / sts: stitch/stitches

DCh: double chain – see my tutorial here:
                http://bit.ly/33nFcYe

If preferred, a regular chain stitch may be substituted for the double chain

ch: chain.

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

tr: treble crochet

sk: skip

rpt: repeat

rnd: round

ea: each

(parentheses): instructions inside parentheses are to be repeated the number of times indicated just outside the parentheses. When parentheses are followed by β€œaround” it means repeat the instructions until you finish the entire round.

beg: beginning. Refers to the first stitch or set of stitches made for the current row or round, i.e – β€œbeg ch-4” refers to the 4 chain stitches made at the beginning of the round you are working.

counts as / does not count as… : The first chain stitches at the beginning of the round are to gain height to start your round. Because this chain sequence is the same height as the stitches, it occasionally counts as the first stitch of the round and will be the stitch to which you join the end of your round.  If this chain does not count as the first stitch, you will skip it completely and join the end of your round to the next stitch after the chain stitches.

Size Changes: This pattern is written for two sizes: Small and Large. The instructions are written so that whenever there are two different instructions (a size change) those changes appear concurrently separated by a comma. Smalls follow the first number given, Larges follow the second number. So in β€œ(1 dc into each of the next 9 sts, 2 dc into the next st) 15, 19 times.”  Smalls will repeat within parentheses 15 times, Larges will repeat 18 times.

Instructions:

Foundation:  DCh 160, 200. Join with a slip stitch to the first DCh stitch to form a loop. Be careful not to twist.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st as join. 1 dc  in ea of the next 159, 199 sts. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round.  – 160, 200 sts

Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 79, 99 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 3: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc into the same st as join. 1 dc into each of the next 159, 199 Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round.

Rnd 4: Rpt Rnd 2.

Rnd 5: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc , dc into the same st as join. 1 Dc into each of the next 8 stitches, 2 dc into the next st. (1 dc into each of the next 9 sts, 2 dc into the next st) 15, 19 times. Join with a slip st in the first dc of the round. – 176, 220 sts

Rnd 6: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 87, 109 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 7: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc into the same st as join. 1 dc into each of the next 175, 219 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. –  176, 220 sts

Rnd 8: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 87, 109 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 9: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st as join. 1 dc into ea of the next 9 sts, 2 dc in the next st. (1 dc into ea of the next 10 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 15, 19 times. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. – 192, 240 sts

Rnd 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 95, 119 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 11: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. 1 dc in each of the next 191, 239 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. – 192, 240 sts

Rnd  12: Rpt Rnd 10.

Rnd 13: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 dc in the next st. (1 dc into ea of the next 11 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 15, 19 times. – 208, 260 sts

Rnd 14: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 103, 129 times.  Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 15: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. Work 1 dc in ea of the next 207, 259 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round.

Rnd 16: Rpt Rnd 14. Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Hood

Fold in the piece in half, aligning the fold along the joining seam. Join new yarn at this corner – you will be crocheting into two layers of the scarf at once. MAKE SURE you are crocheting into the foundation round, NOT round 16. 

Rnd 17: (Work 1 sl st into the next st, working into both layers) 25 times. Ch 3.

Now working in only ONE layer and inserting hook into the bottom of each foundation chain stitch, (sk next st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 52, 72 times. Sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, ch 1. Join with the first ch-1 of the round.

The circle of stitches worked through one layer only will form the base of the next round – you will no longer be working into the 26 stitch seam that forms the back of the hood.

Rnd 18: Ch 3, dc in the same st and in ea st around.  sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Leaf Motif Tie

1st Leaf: Ch 5. Join with a sl st to form a ring. Ch 3 – counts as first dc, 6 dc, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, 7 dc into the ring. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

To begin the double chain, insert hook into one loop of the stitch below the slip stitch join and work one sc. Insert hook into the side bar of the single crochet. Draw up a loop (2 lps on hook). Yarn over and draw through two loops on the hook (one DCh stitch completed).  Double chain 160, 200.

2nd Leaf. – At the end of the double chain, Ch 5. Join with a sl stitch to the 5th ch from the hook to form a ring. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 6 dc, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, 7 dc into the ring. Join with a sl st to the first dc, then secure the top of the leaf onto the DCh cord with another slip stitch. Cut yarn and tie off.

Weave in all yarn ends!

Starting at the base of the hood, weave half of the tie in and out of the spaces between the dc stitches of Rnd 17. Weave the other half through the spaces of the opposite side. Ta-da! Your brand new cowl awaits your woodland adventures!

Wear it as a hood with the drawstring tied to form a warm capelet scarf – hood down, it becomes a shawl! Place the hood on from the back and place arms through the back opening to wear as a scarf vest, or double up the scarf loop around the neck for extra toastiness.

My style might change, but I still make all the same faces when I photograph myself πŸ˜› Cheers!

-MF

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Hedge Witch Hat Pattern

Sounds trendy to talk about how much you love Halloween these days, but like, I really love Halloween guys. No trend shame here. That’s why despite the myriad and awesome crochet witch hat patterns out there, I had to design my own. I wanted a certain look and after a few tries, I really like what I came up with!

This free crochet pattern works with worsted weight yarn in half double stitches, and utilizes the Switchback Join technique to keep the seam straight, which you can find in this free tutorial on my blog!

Please excuse the fact that I had way too much fun creating a vintage witch photoshoot πŸ˜‰

Hedge Witch Hat

Alternating forward leaning and backward leaning rounds, as per the Switchback Join technique.

Materials:
3.75 mm hk
#4 weight yarn – 1 skein

Gauge: 4 sts & 3 rows – 1” in hdc

Finished measurements: ~ 25″ on the inside, 36″ brim on the outside, 10″ height

Instructions:

Rnd 1 (back): hdc 8 into magic ring. Join with a sl st

Rnd 2 (forward): 1 hdc in ea st. Join with a slip st to first hdc of the rnd. – 8 sts

Rnd 3 (back):  Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 12 sts

Rnd 4 (forward): Ch1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in the next st. 2 hdc in the next st.  (1 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 16 sts

Rnd 5 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times.  Join with a sl st.  β€“ 20 sts

Rnd 6 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 3 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 24 sts

Rnd 7 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts

Rnd 8 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts

Rnd 9 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 36 sts

The first 6 increases
Hdc in the next 12 sts
Increase in the last 6 sts

Rnd 10 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts

Rnd 11 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts

Rnd 12 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 8 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 18 sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 54 sts

The curve of the hat will be offset from concentrating the increases on one side

Rnd 13 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts

Rnd 14 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts

Rnd 15 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts

Rnd 16 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts

Rnd 17 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts

Rnd 18 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts

Rnd 19 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts

Rnd 20 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts

Rnd 21 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts

Rnd 22 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts

Rnd 23 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts

Rnd 24 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 25 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 26 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 27 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 28 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st.  – 90 sts

Rnd 29 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 3 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 30 sts. (1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st.  β€“ 102 sts

The curve of the hat is offset again by concentrating the increases on 2/3rds of the hat

Rnd 30 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1  hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 108 sts

Rnd 31 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1  hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 17 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 114 sts

The following round offsets the increases to keep the brim from forming points.

Rnd 32 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1  hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 18 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. Join with a sl st. – 120 sts

Rnd 33 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1  hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. – 128 sts

Rnd 34 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1  hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. – 136 sts

Rnd 35 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 136 sts

Rnd 36: Sl st around.

Weave in all ends to finish. I used some spare chenille yarn and a larger hook to double chain a thin hat band. These hats would be really cute with extras like felted leaves or buttons – I may have to make some more!

For more Halloween themed crochet patterns and tutorials, check out these:

Crochet Pumpkin tutorial
Jack-O-Lantern Mushroom crochet pattern
Candy Corn Baby Hat

And of course, I have tons more free patterns available – if you would like to check them out, visit my Free Pattern page!

❀ MF

Daydreamer Poncho Revamp

Last summer I started working on the Daydreamer Poncho design, which I imagined as a fun lightweight accessory which would be good for using up spare bits of yarn and playing with color. The final product, or at least semi-final, came out great and I enjoyed the actual crocheting of the design as well, but I didn’t use scraps because I wanted to create a more streamlined product.

Mistake.

Okay, well, not mistake. I like the original, but I still felt it the design wanted to be more colorful and less structured. So I did another version recently, using a bunch of little scrap yarn balls and allowing myself to really play with color.

As I was making this piece, it occurred to me that it would also make a pretty cute bohemian skirt! Since it has a drawstring at the collar (or in this case, the waist) it was so easy to convert πŸ˜€ I left off the fringe for this one, and once I finished I just couldn’t wait to get it pictured.

So, I have updated the pattern with this new style! The pattern update isn’t much more than new pictures (I altered two other little rounds, to make it looser at the shoulders/hips) but I do think it’s a little more creatively inspiring. I hope that either way you love making it! ❀

Get the PDF for the Daydreamer Poncho in my Ravelry Store or Etsy Shop, or read the original info on this design on my blog.

This design uses a lot of Chain and Stitch joins, which are a great crochet trick to have in your skill box – you can find a FREE tutorial for that technique right here on my blog as well!

As always ,thank you for visiting my blog and supporting my art! ❀ Much love,

MF

Elf Coat Corset Lacing

One extra element I’ve been dying to get worked out on my Elf Coat design (available for FREE here on my blog in sizes Small, Medium, and Large) was the corset back lacing. Remember the original, original draft of this design? It featured a corset back, and this newer iteration was to get the same treatment.

The first Elf Coat didn’t, however, because at certain points I just HAVE to call something done and move on for a minute. Well, here I am having finally finished the second Elf Coat in size Medium (like… 6 months later) and it was time.

And. I. Am. In. LOVE with how it worked out, true to the vision I had in my head. Don’t you just love it when that happens? This extra feature makes the coat more adjustable and definitely flatters even more! Here’s how to do it!

Corset Back Lacing

On the back of the finished Elf Coat, locate the central panel in the series. Locate the two panels on either side of the central panel, then mark the stitches on the two outer edges of these panels with a stitch marker. I went just a few stitches outside of this point even, but you can adjust based on how much you wish to be able to cinch the coat. We will be working 4 rows of LDC directly into the TKS, running vertically up the back, then repeating this process on the mirror side.

With the 3.50 hook and yarn, attach at the marked stitch by inserting the hook through the two front bars of the knit stitch, as if they were the two top bars of a regular crochet stitch.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). LDC in the next 41 sts. You may also alter the length of the corset backing, if your coat is longer or you want a higher cinch.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Sk next st, LDC in the next 38 sts. Sk next st, LDC in the last st.

Row 3: Ch 3, turn. Sk next st, LDC in the next 2 sts. Ch 1, sk next st. (LDC in the next 4 sts, ch 1, sk next st) 6 times. LDC in the next 3 sts.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn. Sk next st, LDC in the next 35 sts, sk next st. LDC in the last st.

Repeat Rows 1 -4 on the opposite side at the point marked.

Cut yarn and tie off, weave in all ends. I used a mesh/ribbon yarn to lace mine!

As I mentioned in the intro, this does not spell the end of the Elf Coat saga I am sure – I would also like to add pockets, maybe a tie belt option…. fur trim… you name it!

-MF

Basic Bralette PDF and Pattern Sale

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Good news double whammy! Since the free Basic Bralette pattern continues to top the rankings for most popular posts here, I decided to offer it as a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF also! It’s now available for purchase through my Ravelry Store and my Etsy Shop ❀  Read on for more info!

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The new PDF includes both the original Basic Bralette design and the modification for larger busts, the Curvy BraletteΒ tutorial πŸ™‚ AND there’s a super sweet sale going right now where you can get any of my halter top patterns from either Ravelry or Etsy for a whopping HALF OFF! Use the code “SUMMERSALE” now through July 28, 2019.

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When dreaming up this design, I had some specific requirements in mind: that it be a simple β€œbase” pattern from which many variations could be made, as well as being easily customized for many sizes, and last but not least – comfortable! After a few experiments, the pattern for the Basic Bralette was born.

I went with in-the-round triangle style cups for both the way they look and the ease of adjusting their size, plus a band through which the cross-back ties thread so that there is no pressure being put on the neck as with traditional bikini-style strap ties.

In addition, I added a bit of strappy flair along the inner cups, because TRENDY. Say hello to your next cute and comfy summer crochet project!

Now, there’s a teeny bit of math involved, fair warning. However, if you are confused about gauge and measurements, I’m here to help – or just wing it, and use the old β€œhold it up against yourself periodically while you work” method.

This PDF pattern includes written, step-by-step instructions and lots of clear tutorial photos as well as tips for modifying the pattern for different sizes. Both the Basic Bralette pattern and the Curvy Bralette pattern modification are included in the file!

Materials:
3.50 mm hook
#4 weight cotton yarn (although you can make it with any weight yarn / hook size combo as long as you know your gauge!) 1-3 skeins depending on size made
Stitch markers
Scissors & Tapestry Needle
Measuring Tape

Measurements Needed:
Band Size (measured around the rib cage just under the bust): For example, my measurement would be 32”
Measurement A : (Band size β€œ / 4) – 2” = Length of each side of completed triangle cup ( My example would be [32 / 4] – 2 = 6”). Therefore, my Measurement A = 6β€³
Measurement B: (Measurement A) / 2 = My Measurement B would be 3”

Size:
The original Basic Bralette pattern can be modified in size to any size that you like, but because of the flatter nature of the cups it really works best for sizes Small – Medium (32A – 34). The pattern ALSO includes the Curvy Bralette Mod, which is a modification for larger busts. This mod uses a border to draw the cups in more, creating a deeper cup for larger busts and works better for C cups and some B cups depending on the shape. I haven’t personally made any cup sizes larger than D in this pattern, though I’m sure it can be done.

Written in US terminology.
Language: ENGLISH

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I’m thinking about making more of my original free designs available as purchasable PDF crochet patterns, and also adding some originally purchasable patterns into the free blog pattern mix! Are there any particular designs you’d like to see available in both formats?

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❀ ❀ ❀ As always, a huge thank you to everyone who supports my art by purchasing patterns from me! Paid patterns make up the majority of my income for my art and allow me to keep designing crochet both for free and for sale. It’s really what I love best and you all make it possible!

-MF

Valkyrie Top Crochet Pattern

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It seems to be a running theme with me that sometimes (or often?) projects and designs have a long history of development – way longer than I had intended! With things like the Elf Coat, it’s just a matter of the time it takes to create something technically, stitch by stitch.

With things like the Lotus DusterΒ and the new halter top design, it’s more about idea development and waiting until I’ve mustered the required inspiration and skill to pull something off.

Either way, the process of creation over relatively long periods of time causes me to ruminate on the nature of life, and growth. The other side of this of course is the more serious, and scary, concept of death and the hope of rebirth. I had already decided to name this new crochet piece the Valkyrie Top, after those female warrior spirits in viking myth who rode down from the skies to take the slain to their eternal hall.

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Just before I was ready to release this pattern, the theme of death was brought very close to home for me. I can’t say more than this: I hope this new piece makes you and your loved ones feel like the badass female warriors you are – because you all are.

Please look at yourself with love today. Because you are living being on this earth, and that’s magical.

 

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Find the new design now on Ravelry and Etsy ❀

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Manifest your inner amazon with the Valkyrie Top, named after those mythical viking women who rode across the sky to retrieve the souls of warriors and take them to their eternal halls.

This cotton halter top crochet pattern is designed for beauty, comfort, and versatility. The subtle shaping in the cups creates a contour on the bust that prevents slippage, while the criss-cross ties on the back keep your halter top in place without adding pressure on the neck.

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The netted design and accent motif at the top looks great layered under light summer clothing or all by itself, and the simple shell bottom border is easy to extend for more coverage. Includes sizes Small (Cup sizes A/B), Medium (Cup sizes B/C) and Large (Cup sizes D/DD)!

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This digital PDF crochet pattern provides stitch-by-stitch written instructions that include references to 50+ full-color tutorial photos as well as links to the technique tutorials needed for this design that are provided for free on my blog. Create a unique piece that is both flattering and fun to wear – the Valkyrie Top is your perfect summer accessory to slay in!

Materials:
3.50 mm hook
I Love This Cotton! (#4 weight, 3.5 oz / 100 g, 180 yds) 1,1,2 skeins.
Accent color in #4 weight cotton, about 100-80 yds
Scissors and tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Sizes (approximate):

Small: 21” length, 10” height, Cup sizes A/B
Medium: 21” length, 10” height, Cup sizes B/C
Large: 26” Length, 13” height, Cup size D/DD

~*I offer troubleshooting and pattern help for all of my patterns. All of my paid patterns always come with the right of individual artisans to sell the finished product*~

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That awesome matching macrame pendant and bracelet set is by Selinofos Art – check out their shop on Etsy!

The belt I’m wearing in this shoot is a variation on my Cecilia Skirt Belt pattern using old crochet lace and upcycled leather scraps. I have more pixie skirt style belt ideas and free tutorials in my Pixie Pocket Belt blog series.

I had fun doing this photo shoot, despite the 90 degree weather and the 1 billion per cent humidity! The scenery was epic and I got to incorporate more balance poses which I’ve recently been practicing.

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Damn that wig was making me sweat though πŸ˜€

-MF

Morel Mushroom Pouch

Here in the Midwest the hunt is on for morel mushrooms, the prized wild fungus often referred to as the “steak” of mushrooms. It’s been a great spring for them, with my friends and coworkers reporting big scores – so morels have definitely been on my brain lately. I’ve been making these cute crochet versions, with secret pouches in the stem, for many years now and after seeing so many morels this season I decided to come up with a quick tutorial!

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These cuties are great for storing things like chapstick, pocket money, lighters, or other trinkets inside the hollow stem. They also make great gifts for the woodland mushroom lover ❀

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This project is done in freeform crochet style, meaning that I add random increases, decreases, height changes (from single crochet to half-double or double), and bobbles to make the texture gnarly and womply like a real morel. Here in the tutorial I’ll give the basic structure of the pattern and you can freestyle all the rest!

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Morel Mushroom Pouch

Materials:

3.75 mm crochet hook
20-50 yds #4 worsted weight yarn in two colors
Scissors and tapestry needle

Stem Instructions:

Begin by making a Magic Ring.

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1. 6 single crochet into the ring. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc of the round, pull the ring closed using the yarn tail at the beginning.

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2. 2 sc in each stitch around the circle. Join with a sl st.

If you want a slightly wider stem to fit larger objects, you can repeat Rnd 2.

3. Working in the front loop only (FLO), work one stitch in each stitch around. Here you can start to get funky, with random increases, decreases, height changes, etc. This will be with foot of the stem. Join with a slip stitch in the back loop of the first stitch of the round.

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4. Working in the free back loops of Rnd 2, crochet around. Place freeform stitching around, using bobbles, inc, dec, etc to create texture for your stem.

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Keep the basic stitch count more or less the same and you continue to crochet around. Crochet in the round for as many rows as you like, until your stem is as tall as you want – but remember that the cap will cover some of the stem, so don’t make it too short! I worked 11 rounds, and the finished product is a little stumpy when the cap is pulled all the way down.

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5. Finish the stem by adding the chain loop that the mushroom will hang from – chain 100 or more, then slip stitch on the opposite side of the stem opening. Cut yarn and tie off.

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Cap Instructions:

With your darker color, make a magic ring. 6 single crochet into the ring, then pull the ring a little tighter – but not all the way shut, since you will have to fit the chain through later.

1. (Sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Do not join, but keep working in the round.

2. Using mixed stitches (sc, hdc, dc, clusters, bobbles, etc) – (crochet in the next 2 sts, 2 crochet in the next st) around

3. Using mixed stitches (crochet in the next 3 sts, 2 crochet in the next st) around

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4. Work as many rounds in this manner as you like until your cap is the size you want. Cut yarn and tie off.

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With the lighter colored yarn, join to the surface of the cap by inserting the hook as shown. To make the cap textured, you will work single and half-double crochets just on the surface of the cap by inserting the hook from front to back, then back to front, keeping the yarn held on the front.

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Work stitches on the surface only, changing direction and zig-zagging back and forth. Work from bottom to top, then back down, then back up, etc. Once the entire cap is covered, cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

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Using your hook, pull the chain loop of the stem through the hole in the top of the cap. Slide the cap downΒ  to cover any treasures you can now stow inside!

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I’ve made lots of mushroom pouches, in different varieties including amanitas and jack-o-lanterns. The jack-o-lanterns are particularly cute using glow in the dark yarn – and I have a free crochet tutorial for those too!

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-MF