Ushanka and Muff Set

I loooooooove faux fur (and real fur when I can get it thrifted) so I happily bought a lot of Lion Brand’s new Go For Faux yarn when it hit my local hobby store shelves, and have already used it in some of my new fall designs.

The Thick ‘n’ Quick version is so bulky that just one row of it makes a beautiful trim on garments and accessories…. But I mean, I bought lots. So doing a few all-fur pieces was in order. And the best part is, this yarn is JUMBO so you can make this a two-piece set in about half a day!

Here is a totally free pattern for one of my favorite hat styles: the Ushanka. Literally translating to “earflap hat” the ushanka is a classic garment in Russia and other cold northern regions of the globe – because it’s sooooo warm to wear! Additionally I designed a vintage-style muff out of the same faux fur yarn, because who doesn’t love a big fluffy arm sock?

I’m going to ramble a little about my costume here for Discworld nerds but if you’re just here for the free pattern, keep scrolling or save this project on Ravelry for later!

In another recent costume hat pattern, I designed the photo shoot as my favorite witch from Terry Pratchett’s Discworld fantasy books, just for fun. At that point I’d already designed this free pattern too, and wanted to make it a set – two of my favorite Disc heroines for two crochet patterns. The ushanka was, after all, so appropriate for Sergeant (later Captain) Delphine Angua von Uberwald.

Angua’s family’s propensity for cruelty and violence drove her out of her home in Uberwald (the cold northern Disc country run by noble Vampire and Werewolf families), so she migrated to the biggest city and was hired into the city watch; her ability to transform into a natural hunting machine made her a formidable detective. She’s a bit haunted by her past, and her character is a vessel for the struggle between nature and nurture, and the balance of laws and chaos – as many of the best Pratchett characters are.

I gave her the warm fuzzy hat but also a look of wariness and mistrust, a vintage military-style buttoned coat, and a pouch around her neck with her essentials (the only thing that stays on when she transforms).If you’ve never read the Discworld books, but like sci-fi or fantasy – I highly recommend them πŸ™‚ Obviously! Ok, now for the pattern πŸ˜‰

Instructions:

Materials:

Lion Brand Go For Faux Thick and Quick (#7, 120 g / 24 yd, 100% polyester) – 3 skeins (2 for the Ushanka, 1 for the muff). There are several types of Go For Faux – be sure you are getting the Thick and Quick!
11.5 mm crochet hook – or size needed to obtain gauge
Length of ribbon (2 yards)
Scissors, yarn needle (large eyed, for the jumbo yarn)

Gauge: 3 sts and 3 rows = 2″ in dc

Finished Measurements (approximate):
Ushanka Hat: 22″ brim, 7″ tall from brim to crown, 6″ long earflaps
Arm Muff: 7″ x 11″ for the finished tube

Ushanka:

The hat is crocheted in the round, the first 2 chain stitches do not count as the first st. Earflaps are added on after.

With 11.5 mm hook and main yarn, make magic ring.

Leave the tail of the ring long, longer than the normal 6″ for weaving in. Since this yarn is jumbo, we need to leave a bit more so that it’s easier to weave.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc), 12 dc into the ring. Join with a sl st in the first dc of the round. – 12 dc

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc), 2 dc in the same st. 2 dc in ea of the next 11 sts. Join with a sl st in the first dc of the rnd. – 24 dc

Rnd 3: Ch 2 (does not count), 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sts. Join with a sl st in the first dc of the rnd. – 24 dc

Rnds 4-6: Rpt Rnd 3.

For and more stiff and structured hat, I like to slip stitch around the entire brim after Rnd 6.

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving long tail.

Ushanka pictured on the right above, before adding earflaps. it makes a really excellent simple fur cap too, if you want to skip the flap part! (but it’s not an Ushanka without the flaps)

Earflaps:

Join yarn at the side of the hat, leaving long tail. I like to try on the hat and use stitch markers to mark off a 6-stitch long section on each side where they should go over my ears before starting this portion of the pattern.

Row 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc). 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 5 sts. – 6 dc

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count), turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 5 sts. – 6 dc

Row 3: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. (Dc2tog in the next pair of stitches) twice. 1 dc in the last st. – 4 dc

Row 4: Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in the same st. Dc2tog in the next pair of stitches. 1 dc in the last st. – 3 dc

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving long tail for weaving in.

Repeat Earflaps instructions on the other side, making sure to align placement properly for your ears.

See “Finishing” under the Muff section for further instructions.

One completed earflap just before tie off

Muff

The muff is constructed by crocheting a flat rectangle, then folding over and seaming down the open edge to form a tube.

With 11.5 mm hook and main yarn, chain 17 sts.

Row 1: In the 3rd ch from the hook, work 1 dc (first 2 chains do not count as first st). 1 dc in ea of the next 14 chain stitches.

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as first dc), turn. 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 14 sts.

Rows 3-5: Rpt Row 2.

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving an extra long tail for sewing.

Fold the piece in half width-wise (so that the halves are fatter, not skinner). Using the large eyed yarn needle, thread the long tail and seam the sides of the piece together so that it forms a tube.

If you prefer a larger/wider muff you can always add more rows on to the rectangle, or make extra rounds on the ends.

Finishing

With large eyed yarn needle, thread all remaining ends and weave in. The Jumbo yarn is a little tricky to weave in, just stick to going through the bottoms of the stitches and make sure to turn a few times when weaving . I have found this yarn loves to pop out because it’s so thick so you may have to test the finished piece by stretching, and trim a little if your ends start peeking out!

See the little yarn tail peeking out after a bit of stretching? Snip snip.

Now for the ribbon: You’ll need three ribbon lengths. I used a lightweight specialty ribbon yarn (the ruffling kind) but any soft ribbon will work – cut the lengths long, about 21-24 inches, as they will be doubled up (and you can then trim to preference).

Take two lengths and double them up, looping one through the center bottom of each earflap (working through a space between stitches) to tie on.

This decorates the hat and enables you to tie the earflaps up on top of the head in true ushanka fashion.

Next, take the third length of ribbon and cut in half. String each half in and out of the spaces between stitches on the edges of the muff, leaving the ribbon tails poking out in the same space like a drawstring. Tie & bow the ribbons – now you can adjust the openings of the muff to make sure your paws hands are toasty!

That’s it! Now you’re ready to face any chilly northern winds that may blow your way this winter ❀ Or maybe you’re ready to see Captain Carrot πŸ˜‰

-MF

Mori Beret

It all started in fall of 2015 when I searched around the internet for a good, simple crochet beret pattern, one with a classic shape good for regular ol’ worsted yarns.

Finding nothing that appealed to my particular idea of what I wanted, I sat down and crocheted it myself and debuted the pattern for free as the Sweetheart Beret, in an ancient long-buried blog post with an atrocious lack of photography skills :/ In 2018, I revamped that pattern and offered a cute deer antler version, again for free, on a slightly better photographed blog post as the Forest Girl Beret.

The Forest Girl Beret continues to be offered for free via the link above, but perhaps I can interest you in a re- re- RE- vamped pattern, now with even more cute extras?

Get the Mori Beret in my Ravelry Store or Etsy Shop now or read on for more details!

Because I just can’t leave well enough alone, when I decided to create a paid PDF option for the Forest Girl Beret I also rewrote the pattern just slightly, fixed a few wonky spots, and created full written instructions for new features like ears, spots, and leaves!

I’m calling it the Mori Beret, true to it’s original inspiration from the Japanese style subculture ❀ And I made FIVE versions of this cute hat because I couldn’t resist a multi-creature photoshoot πŸ˜‰

The Mori Beret starts with a basic, easy pattern the utilizes worsted weight yarn and half-double crochet to create a beret or tam style hat with a timeless silhouette. The main hat pattern includes tips for custom sizing and bright tutorial photos to show the details of the pattern.

Stick with the classic, sleek beret style and make one for every outfit or create a cute and whimsical wardrobe staple by adding one (or several!) of the 5 Extra Feature options: Mini Antlers, Ears (Small or Large), Leaves, or Mushroom Speckles!

The perfect classic and classy beret hat for any style ❀

Materials:

5.00 mm hook (main hat) 3.50 mm hook (optional, for extra features) – or sizes needed to obtain gauge

#4 weight yarn (Main Hat) – 175-200 yards

#4 accent yarn, 25-50 yds (optional, for Extra Features)

Tapestry needle Scissors

Finished Measurements (for standard hat, approximate): 22” brim, 11” diameter across the top when laid flat, 9” depth

Oh, and those fingerless gloves I’m wearing are the Rambler’s Mitts, a free pattern from my blog, worked in Bernat Velvet ❀

-MF

Hedge Witch Hat PDF

No sooner than I released the totally-free crochet pattern for the Hedge Witch Hat, did I realize I wanted to add some tweaks to the general shape of it! Typical of me really – I’ve never once put out a pattern that I didn’t want to keep modifying in some way. Unfortunately, not matter how finicky I get, I could always keep changing a bit here and a bit there, and so at some point I just have to commit and get it done with.

The lovely Sarina modeling her custom Hedge Witch Hat!

After all, I can come back to it later. Which is exactly what I’ve done with here! In this case the design modifications are minor – I wanted the silhouette to be a LITTLE more curved and forward-set.

Because the two variations are similar but each with it’s own charm, I couldn’t decide which I liked better – so the pattern update includes the instructions for BOTH varieties!

You can get the updated, totally free version of this easy and cute crochet pattern on my blog via the original post.

The new version is also getting the spiffy PDF treatment – so now the entire updated pattern is available as a purchaseable, downloadable, ad-free PDF!

Get the PDF crochet pattern now through my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Store!

Paid patterns make up the vast majority of my business income so if you like this pattern and want to use it more in the future, please consider supporting me by buying the paid version. And of course, more support means more great Morale Fiber designs in the future πŸ˜‰

Sharing my art is my passion and I couldn’t do it without you ❀ Read on for more info on the Hedge Witch Hat PDF!

This quick, easy, and stylish little witch hat is not just a cute version of a Halloween favorite – it may just charm its way into your everyday wardrobe! Great made with any #4 worsted weight acrylic yarn, this simple design comes in two style options with plenty of room for customizing with color or adorable add-ons like flowers or patches.

Worked in half-double crochet, this pattern utilizes a special technique to keep the seam straight called the Switchback Join – instructions and tutorial link are included in the written pattern along with lots of the usual features – clear tutorial photos, step-by-step directions, stitch counts, and all the details you need to make this quick project!

Materials:
3.75 mm hk
#4 weight yarn – Approximately 200-250 yds
Scissors & tapestry needle

Gauge: 4 sts & 3 rows – 1” in hdc

Finished measurements: ~ 25β€³ on the inside, 36β€³ brim on the outside, 9-10β€³ height

Types: A (Pointier, black & dark gray versions), B (Rounder, light gray and tan versions)

All instructions are in English in U.S terminology.

I’m already plotting some crochet patches to put on these babies – perhaps a Crochet Patch pattern series is in order, no? πŸ™‚ I have a couple good candidates already! Follow the links below for more Free Patterns:

At the center of the Embla Vest (pictured above) is the Tree of Life motif, which you can get for free on my blog and would make a great patch!

I’ll probably do a little crescent moon on the hat I’m working on now, which is navy and blue. You can get the instructions for the Crescent Moon motif where it appears as part of my other free pattern, the Forest Guide Hat.

Happy Casting!

-MF

Forest Guide Hat

I debated with myself for a long time about what to call this fantastical creature hat. In the end, I chose “Forest Guide” because “Three Eyed Antlered Inter-dimensional Fox Spirit Guide” seemed too long. Whatever you call it, this new design is available for FREE here in this blog post or as a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF in my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Store. Read on for more details!

Let’s rewind a minute to talk about the inspiration for this design- this hat was conceived in several different parts, the first part being that I see faces in random blobs (a common human tendency called “pareidolia” and side effect of having any kind of imagination) and I saw a three-eyed antlered fox one day while staring sleepily at the tapestry on my bedroom wall.

“Say” I said to myself, “that would make a weird hat.” You see, I had recently completed a custom commissioned piece for a complex hat with tons of details based on my Krampus Hat pattern. It was an experience that gave me lots of new ideas.

The free pattern for the Krampus Hat itself has produced so many amazing, creative interpretations that I wanted to do another pattern that was similarly Out There. And I wanted to keep exploring the 3-D, sculptural crochet techniques that I have already been dabbling in for a while (like with the Deer Hat and the Sylphie Hat).

Plus, CREATURES. I like ’em. Rawr.

So I stared at my tapestry a bit more, made some sketches, and worked out a vague plan. I was aiming to create something mystical, and complex, and cute but creepy in a Ghibli-esque sort of way. An elusive forest spirit, a shapechanger, a keeper of the paths.

One of the best parts about designing this was all the little shapes that make up the details of the hat – there are 23 individual amigurumi components to this hat. That’s a lot! But with so many options, the piece can be customized to your heart’s content OR the details can be used individually for different projects (Make just the fox hat, or those antlers might make an awesome headpiece on their own, or the cute crescent moon could adorn something…)

I hope you enjoy this FREE crochet pattern for the Forest Guide hat, and have as much fun creating it as I did. This pattern is available with all the same features here as a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store!

100% of the proceeds from the first five days of PDF sales for this pattern was donated to WIRES, an Australian wildlife rescue nonprofit, to help aid the animals fleeing burned habitat ❀ Thank you everyone who participated in the fundraiser!

This elaborate crochet fantasy hat imagines the spirit of the forest as an elusive shapechanger, guide, and keeper of the paths. In the form of a three-eyed, antlered fox, it appears to travelers trying to find their way. Will it offer help or guide you deeper into wilderness?

A customizable soft-sculpture costume head piece, this is one crochet project that you will not be able to keep hidden in the trees! The written pattern for the main hat includes detailed instructions for all 23 amigurumi components, plus photo AND video tutorials for making all the pieces and assembling.

Written in U.S terminology

Materials & Notes

4.50 mm hook
3.75 mm hook

2 skeins Lion Brand Heartland Yosemite (#4 Worsted Weight, 251 yds / 5 oz, 100% acrylic) (Main Color – Red)
1 skein Lion Brand Heartland Great Sand Dunes (Accent Color – Beige)
1 skein Lion Brand Heartland Bryce Canyon (Accent Color – Gold)
>100 yds #4 weight accent color orange
>100 yds #4 weight accent color black
>50 yds #4 weight accent color white

> 50 yds accent fur yarn (any white or cream colored)
> 50 yds accent fur yarn (any orange) – optional

Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Polyester Fiberfill & stuffing stick
12” chenille craft pipe cleaners, 6 mm (2)
Measuring tape
Styrofoam Head form
Locking stitch markers

Gauge:

4 sts & 8 rows = 1”, or 2” in diameter after Rnd 7 in main pattern

Finished Measurements:
Main Hat: 24” circumference around the inside, 13-14” from bottom of earflap to crown

Stitches and Abbreviations:


magic ring (MR)
single crochet (sc)
slip stitch (sl st)
front loop only (FLO)
chain stitch (ch)
back loop only (BLO)
single crochet decrease (sc dec)
half-double crochet (hdc)
double crochet (dc)
treble crochet (tr)
5-wrap bullion (5-bull)- Wrap yarn around hook 5 times. Insert hook into next st, draw up a loop. Draw the same loop through each of the 5 wraps on the hook. YO and draw through last loop on the hook. (Double crochet may be substituted for this stitch)
6-wrap bullion (6-bull) – Wrap yarn around hook 6 times. Insert hook into next st. draw up a loop. Draw the same loop through each of the 6 wraps on the hook. YO and draw through last loop on the hook. (Treble crochet may be substituted for this stitch)
back post double crochet (BPDC) – double crochet worked by inserting the hook around the post of the stitch below, entering and emerging from the back (wrong side) of the work . For more help with post stitches, see my tutorial here: Post Stitch Ribbing tutorial
back post half double crochet (BPHDC) – half double crochet worked by inserting the hook around the post of the stitch below, entering and emerging from the back (wrong side) of the work.
front post double crochet (FPDC) – double crochet worked by inserting the hook around the post of the stitch below, entering and emerging from the front (right side) of the work.
front post half-double crochet (FPHDC) –  half double crochet worked by inserting the hook around the post of the stitch below, entering and emerging from the front (right side) of the work.
right side (RS)
wrong side (WS)
hook (hk)
stitch/es (st/sts)

Notes:

The circular pattern alternates rounds worked in the front and back loops of the previous round. I highly recommend using a locking marker on the back loop of the first stitch of each sc round (odd numbered rounds) so you know for sure where to start and finish – with all of those loops it can get confusing and the markers always save the day.

Working a large number of chain loops will make the hat base curl and may be hard to work with – this is normal. For help on how to handle working the main hat, please see my demo video on my Youtube channel linked below.

Video Tutorials: Video tutorials, including demos and full-length patterns for this design, can be found on my Youtube Channel here. They’re also embedded in the instructions on the blog below!

Main Hat Instructions

To Begin, make magic ring with Main Color and a 4.50 mm hook.

Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring, join round with a sl st in the front loop of the first stitch. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 6 sts

Rnd 2: Working in the FLO of Rnd 1 (Ch 9, *sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt  5 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 6 ch loops

Rnd 3: 2 sc into each of the back loops only (BLO)  of the sc stitches from Rnd 1.  Join with a sl st in the FLO. – 12 sts

Rnd 4: Working in the FLO of Rnd 3, (Ch 9. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt  11 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join – 12 ch loops

Rnd 5: In BLO of Rnd 3, (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in the next st. ) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 18 sts

Rnd 6: Working in the FLO of Rnd 5, (Ch 9. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt  17 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 18 ch loops

Rnd 7: In BLO of Rnd 5, (1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round – 24 sts

Rnd 8: Working in the FLO of Rnd 7, (Ch 9. *sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 23 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 24 ch loops

Rnd 9: In BLO of Rnd 7, (1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 30 sts

Rnd 10:  Working in FLO of Rnd 9, (Ch 9. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 29 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 30 ch loops

Rnd 11: In BLO of Rnd 9, (1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 36 sts

Rnd 12: Working in FLO of Rnd 11, sc in the same stitch as sl st join. (Ch 9. *Sc in the next stitch.)  Rpt  35 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 36 ch loops

Rnd 13: In BLO of Rnd 11, (1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 42 sts

Rnd 14: Working in FLO of Rnd 13,  (Ch 9. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 41 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 42 ch loops

Rnd 15: In BLO of Rnd 13, (1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 48 sts

Rnd 16: Working in FLO of Rnd 15, (Ch 10. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 47 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 48 ch loops

Rnd 17: In BLO of Rnd 15, (1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 54 sts

Rnd 18: Working in FLO of Rnd 17, (Ch 10.  *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 53 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 54 ch loops

Rnd 19: In BLO of Rnd 17, 1 sc in each sc around. Join with a sl st in the FL of first st in the rnd. – 54 sts

Rnd 20: Working in FLO of Rnd 19, (Ch 11. *Sl st in the next st.) Rpt 53 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 54 ch lps

Rnd 21: In BLO of Rnd 19, (1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 60 sts

Rnd 22: Working in FLO of Rnd 21, (Ch 11. *Sl st in the next stitch.)  Rpt 59 more times, ending last rpt at *.   Do not join. – 60 ch loops

Rnd 23: In BLO of Rnd 21, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 60 sts

Rnd 24: Working in FLO of Rnd 23, (Ch 11. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 59 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 60 ch loops

Rnd 25: Working in BLO of Rnd 23, (1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FL of the first st of the rnd. – 66 sts

Rnd 26: Working in the FLO of Rnd 25, (Ch 11. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 65 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 66 ch loops

Rnd 27: In BL of previous rnd, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 66 sts

Rnd 28: Working in FLO of previous rnd, (Ch 12. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 65 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 66 ch loops

Rnds 29-42: Rpt Rnds 27-28 7 more times.

Rnd 43: In BL of previous rnd, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 66 sts

Rnd 44: Working in FLO of previous rnd, (Ch 13. *Sl st in the next st.) Rpt 65 more times, ending alst rpt at *. Do not join.

Rnds 45 – 52: Rpt Rnds 43-44 4 more times. Sl st in the next st.  Do not tie off – leave yarn attached to begin working earflaps.

Earflaps (Make 2)

Get four locking stitch markers. Place one in the BL of the first stitch of the previous round. Place second marker 9 stitches from the first (counting in same direction as you would work the round). Including stitches with markers, this makes a 10-stitch section. Starting with the first stitch after the 2nd marker, count 19 stitches in the same direction you would work the round. Place the third marker in the back loop of the 19 stitch. Place 4th marker 9 stitches from the third.

This leaves you with two marked off sections of 10 stitches (where you will work the earflaps) with an 18-stitch gap on one side (the back of the hat) and a 28-stitch gap on the other side (the front of the hat).  You can try on the hat now to see where those sections fall and adjust if necessary – as long as you have two sections of 10 stitches you can place them where you like.

Earflaps are worked in rows, turning after each row. Every row is worked in the back loop only.

Row 1: RS facing, join with a sc to the marked st at the beginning of one marked off 10-st section. 1 sc into the BLO of ea of next 9 sts. Ch 13, turn.

Row 2: Working in the BLO, sl st in next st. (Ch 13, * sl st in the next st) 9 more times, ending last rpt at *. Turn – 10 ch loops

Row 3: In the BLO, sc in ea of the next 10 sts. Ch 13, turn.

Row 4: Rpt Row 2.

Row 5: Rpt Row 3.

Row 6: Rpt Row 2.

Row 7: To begin this row, work a sc decrease over the BL of the first 2 stitches. Sc in ea of the next 6 sts. Work a sc decrease over the next 2 stitches. Ch 13, turn. – 8 sts.

Row 8: Sl st in the next st. (Ch 13, * sl st in the next st) 7 times, ending last rpt at *. Ch 13, turn. –  8 ch loops.

Row 9: Sc in ea of the next 8 sts. Ch 13, turn. – 8 sts

Row 10: Rpt Row 8.

Row 11: To begin this row, work a sc decrease over the BL of the first 2 sts. Sc in ea of the next 4 sts. Work a sc decrease over the next 2 sts. Ch 13, turn. – 6 sts

Row 12: Sl st in the next st. (Ch 13, *sl st in the next st) 5 times, ending last rpt at *. Turn. – 6 ch loops

Row 13: Work a sc decrease over the next 2 sts. Sc in ea of next 2 sts. 1 sc dec over the next 2 sts. Ch 13, turn. – 4 sts

Row 14: Sl st in the next st. (Ch 13, *sl st in the same st) 3 times, ending last rpt at *. Turn. – 4 ch loops

Row 15: (Work a sc dec over the next 2 sts) twice. If this is your first earflap, cut yarn and tie off. If this is your second earflap, do not cut or tie off.

Brim:

The brim works three rows of sc in each stitch around the edge of the hat, including the earflaps. Continue using yarn still attached from the 2nd earflap.

Row 1: Work 1 sc in the side of ea row down the earflap toward the main part of the hat. Continue to work 1 sc in the back loops of the stitches and 1 sc in between ea loop on the sides of the earflaps all the way around the hat.

Row 2: Sc in ea sc.

Row 3: Sc in ea sc.

Details Instructions

Fox Ears (Make 2):

Worked in the round, placing marker in the first stitch of every round to keep track.

With 4.50 hook and #4 black yarn, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 6 sts

Rnd 2: *1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 9 sts

Rnd 3: *1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 12 sts

Rnd 4: *1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 15 sts

Rnd 5: *1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 18 sts

Rnd 6: *1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 21 sts

Rnd 7: *1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 24 sts

Rnd 8: *1 sc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 27 sts

Rnd 9: *1 sc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 30 sts

Rnd 10: *1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 33 sts

Rnd 11: *1 sc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 36 sts

Rnd 12: *1 sc in ea of the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 39 sts

Rnd 13: *1 sc in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. -42 sts

Rnd 14: *1 sc in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 sc in the next st* around. – 45 sts

Rnds 15 – 19: 1 sc in ea st around. – 45 sts.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Ear Trim:

The ear is flattened to later fit on the hat – flatten the ear and fold it inward to get an idea.  Video demo available below.

Row 1: To trim the ear, use the 4.50 mm hook to attach the fur accent yarn a few stitches inward from the edge, starting at the bottom. Slip stitch on the surface of the piece, staying a few stitches inward from the edge, toward the tip of the ear.

Once a few stitches from the top, turn and slip stitch back down the other side in the same manner.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn and slip stitch in ea of the slip stitches just made in the first Row.

Row 3 (Optional): I did a third line of slip stitching inward from the first, using a different fur yarn, to add more texture. Work across the bottom of the ear for the 3rd row.

TIP: Use a pet brush or wig brush to tease out the hair on the fur yarn to make the texture softer!

Antlers:

Main Tine (Make 2):

Worked continuously in the round, place marker in the first stitch of every round to keep track. Video tutorial available below.


With 3.75 hook and #4 accent color beige, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: 3 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 3 sts

Rnd 2: 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st. – 4 sts

Rnd 3: 1 sc in ea st. – 4 sts

Rnd 4: Rpt rnd 3

Rnd 5: 1 sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in the next st. – 5 sts

Rnd 6: 1 sc in ea st. – 5 sts

Rnd 7: Rpt rnd 6

Rnd 8: 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. – 6 sts

Rnd 9: 1 sc in ea st. – 6 sts

Rnds 10-11: Rpt Rnd 9.

Rnd 12: *2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. Rpt from * once more. – 8 sts.

Rnd 13: 1 sc in ea st. – 8 sts

Rnds 14-15: Rpt Rnd 13

Rnd 16: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts. – 9 sts

Rnd 17: 1 sc in ea st. – 9 sts

Rnds 18 – 19: Rpt Rnd 17

Rnd 20: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. – 10 sts

Rnd 21: 1 sc in ea  st. – 10 sts

Rnds 22 – 30: Rpt Rnd 21

Rnd 31: 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. – 12 sts

Rnd 32: 1 sc in ea st. – 12 sts.

Slip stitch in the next few stitches to finish. Cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.

2nd Tine (Make 2):

Work Rounds 1 – 14 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 14, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.

3rd Tine (Make 2):


Work Rounds 1 – 12 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 12, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.

4th Tine (Make 2):

Work Rounds 1 – 10 of the Main Tine. Sl st in the next few sts to finish after Rnd 10, cut yarn and tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Antler Video Tutorial:

Antler Construction:

Video demo available below.

With polyester fiberfill and stick, stuff a tiny bit of filling in the tip of the Main Tine. Take one 12” 6mm pipe cleaner and fold in half, twisting loose ends together to form a flat loop. Insert twisted end into the Main tine, leaving a small bit of loop sticking out of the opening. Gently fill the bottom part of the Main Tine around the wire armature with poly fill. Roll and massage the piece to even out the filling – do not overstuff! It should still be flexible and posable on the armature.

Gently stuff the 2nd tine with a small amount of fiberfill. With tapestry needle, thread long yarn tail of the 2nd Tine. Position about halfway up the Main Tine and sew around the base of the 2nd tine.

Gently stuff the 3rd tine with a small amount of fiberfill.  With tapestry needle, thread long yarn tail of the 3rd tine and position at the base of the Main Tine. Sew the tine so that the base is partially attached. Leave about half of the base free to attach to the hat along with the base of the Main Tine.

Gently stuff the 4th tine with a tiny amount of fiberfill. Leave this tine free, it is attached to the Hat separately later.

Antler Construction Demo Video

Snout:

Snout is constructed by working four triangular shapes back and forth separately onto the same circle, adding seams at the end. Ch 1 at beginning of rnd does not count as first sc.

With Beige and 3.75 hook, make magic ring.

1st quarter:

Rnd 1: 8 sc into the ring. Join with a slip stitch in the first sc of the round.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 2 sc in the next st. – 4 sts

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 6 sts

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 8 sts

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 10 sts

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 12 sts

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 10 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 14 sts

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 16 sts

Row 9: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 14 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 18 sts

Row 10: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 16 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 20 sts

Row 11: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 18 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 22 sts

Row 12: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 20 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 24 sts

Rows 13 -14: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 24 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

2nd & 3rd Quarter:

With Gold, join yarn in either set of two stitches adjacent to the 1st quarter.

Row 1: Ch 1, 2 sc in the next st. 2 sc in the next st. – 4 sts

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 4 sts

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in the next 2 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 6 sts

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 6 sts

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 8 sts.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 8 sts

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 10 sts

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 10 sts

Rows 9 – 14: Rpt Row 8. – 10 sts

Cut yarn and tie off. Rpt for 3rd quarter on the other side of 1st.

4th Quarter (Top of snout)


With Main color, join yarn in first of remaining 2 sc.

Row 1: Ch 1, 2 sc in the same st, 2 sc in the next st. – 4 sc

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in ea st. – 4 sc

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in the next 2 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 6 sts

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 6 sts

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 8 sts.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 8 sts

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 10 sts

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 10 sts

Row 9: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 sc in the last st. – 12 sts

Row 10: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st. – 12 sts

Rows 11-14: Rpt Row 10

Do not tie off.

Snout Construction:

Video demo available.


Match the edge of the sides (2nd and 3rd quarter) to the top of the snout (4th quarter) and work a single crochet over the end stitch of both layers at once. Work 1 sc per row end across the edge to create a seam. Turn, work 2 slip stitches across the tip, then continue seam down the other side. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

With accent color beige, repeat the process on the other side connecting the bottom (1st quarter) to the sides (2nd and 3rd quarter). Work 1 sc stitch per row end across the edge to create a seam. Turn, work 2 slip stitches across the tip, then continue seam down the other side. Cut yarn and tie off.

Nose:

With 3.75 hook and accent color Black, chain 10.

Row 1: 4 hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook. 1 hdc in ea of the next 3 ch sts. 4 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 3 sts. 4 hdc in the next st. Slip stitch in the opposite side of the chain stitch 5 stitches away.

Row 2: Sc in the back loop only (BLO) of the first st of the previous round. Working in the BLO, sc in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc of the round.

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Eyes (Make 3):

(Pictured above clockwise from left – Eye without finishing, 3rd eye with finishing, Left Eye with finishing)

The Eyes feature the bullion stitch, an advanced crochet stitch described in the stitches section. For help working this stitch, see my video tutorials, linked in the Notes section. If you do not want to tackle bullion, regular crochet stitches can be substituted. Substitute double crochet for the 5-bullion stitch and treble crochet for the 6-bullion stitch.

With 3.75 hook and accent color black, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: 2 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc into the ring. Sl st in first sc to join. Pull ring closed tightly. Cut yarn and tie off.

With accent color gold, join yarn in last st worked. Ch 3 to start.

Rnd 2: Work 2 5-bull sts in the first 4 sts. (2 6-bull, ch 1, 2 6-bull) in the next st. Work 2 5-bull sts in the next 5 sts. (2 6-bull, ch 1, 2 6-bull) in the next st. Work 2 5-bull sts in the next st. Sl st to join. Cut yarn and tie off.

Brow – Left eye:

With Wrong Side facing, attach black yarn three sts away from the 6-bull increase of either end of the eye.

Row 1: Sc in the same st. Sc in the next 2 sts. In the next ch space, work 3 hdc. 1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 dc in ea of the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

Row 2: Turn piece. With Right Side facing, attach beige yarn 4 stitches away from the end of the brow – attach new yarn around post of 4th from last stitch. Ch 3. 1 Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC) in the same st. 1 BPDC in ea of the next 8 sts. 1 Back Post Half Double Crochet (BPHDC) in ea of the next 4 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

Brow – Right eye:

With Right side Facing, attach black yarn three sts away from the 6-bull increase of either end of the eye.

Row 1: Sc in the same st. Sc in the next 2 sts. In the next ch space work 3 hdc. 1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 dc in ea of the next 2 sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

Row 2: Turn piece. With Wrong Side facing, attach beige yarn 4 sts away from the end of the brow – attach new yarn around post of the 4th from last st. Ch 3. 1 Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC) in the same st. 1 FPDC in ea of the next 8 sts. 1 Fack Post Half Double Crochet (FPHDC) in ea of the next 4  sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

 3rd Eye:

With Main Color, Join yarn in any stitch. 1 sc in each stitch around. In the chain space at the first point, work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Continue to single crochet to next point. Work 3 sc in the chain space. Continue to sc around, join with a sl st to first sc of the round.

Crescent Moon:

With Accent color White and 3.75 hook, ch 9.

In the 2nd ch from the hook, 2 sc. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 ch sts. 3 dc in the next ch st. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 ch sts. 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the next st. Cut yarn and tie off.

Back Markings:


With 3.75 hk and Gold, Ch 40

2 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook. 2 dc in ea of the next 9 ch sts. 1 dc in ea of the next 9 sts. 3 dc in the next st. 2 dc in the next st.  1 dc in ea of the next 9 sts. 2 dc in ea of the next 10 sts.  Cut yarn and tie off.

With same hook and yarn, make magic ring.

Ch 3. 12 dc into the ring – tighten. Join with a sl st in first dc of the round.  Repeat for 2nd circle.

Fang:

With 3.75 mm hook and accent color white, follow Rounds 1-4 of the Main Tine. Cut yarn and tie off.

Braids:

Cut 48 30” long strands. Separate into 2 groups of 24, double up to form a loop and loop through the end of each earflap on any available loop, or directly into the crochet stitching if you prefer. Braid and tie off.

Assembly:

It’s okay and even preferable if you trap a lot of loops under the sewing for your detail pieces. Work slowly and conscientiously to get the loops and pieces arranged nicely.
The demo video for assembly is condensed at 25 times faster the speed I did it – it took me over 3 hours to assemble this! Take your time, but don’t be focused on getting it absolutely perfect because it won’t be.
Your hat will have a character of it’s own!

Using locking stitch markers, head form and tape measure, attach the components to the main hat. Start by centering the snout (nose already sewn on) so that the beige edge matches up against the brim on the center above the face. Stitch all components directly over the chain loops, making sure the securing thread attaches all the way down to the base of the hat, not just to the loops.  Next tackle the 3rd eye, then tack on the other two eyes (don’t recommend sewing them on fully yet).

After the eyes are positioned and partially attached, arrange the ears and tack them on using temporary securing methods such as locking stitch markers, safety pins, or tied yarn.

Next, position your main antlers – insert the pipe cleaner loop at the base of the antler all the way through the stitches on the base of the main hat so that you can grab the wire loop on the underside. Using the main color, thread yarn through this loop and secure the pipe cleaner to the surrounding stitches, then weave yarn over this base to cover it.

If all components look more or less aligned (I recommend looking from many angles and utilizing your tape measure A LOT) you can finish securing the eyes, ears, and antlers using the attached yarn tails. Use your yarn tension and stitches to make little adjustments to placement as you go if needed.

Then position the 4th tines, stuffed lightly if desired, on either side of the 3rd eye. The Crescent is placed below the 3rd eye and the fangs underneath the snout on the inside of the bottom seam. The back designs go on last.

With accent color yarns and a tapestry needle, make a few overlapping straight stitches down the center of the eye to give it shine.

Once all components are attached, weave in any remaining ends.

Assembly Video

The following video records my assembly process for this piece – it takes a while! The video is sped up at 25 times the normal rate, so while it isn’t great at being a tutorial, hopefully it gives an overall idea of how to go about putting it all together. Plus, it was fun for me to watch. BTW I’m wearing the Gnome Toboggan hat in this video πŸ˜‰

Fringe Fur:

With Beige, cut a large bundle of 6” strands. Carve out a rounded cheek silhouette in the chain loops on the side of the hat, making a furrow to mark where you will fringe. Taking 2 strands at a time, loop the fringe into the chain loops and tighten, working along the loops on the furrow marked out. Repeat on the other side. – 25 (ish) fringe tassels each side should do it.

Repeat this process with accent color Orange, positioning over the top of the beige – 15-20 fringe tassels

Repeat with Main color, underneath the beige, centered on the earflap – 15 fringe tassels.

Give the fox a haircut – trim the β€œfur” until it is the length you want. Look over your new masterpiece and make any little adjustments, squishing the chain loops into their final places around the face features, etc. Spray block with water if desired.

This project was a really fun journey into shapes and textures that I hope others will customize and invent upon ❀

There are several elements in the costume for this piece I’d like to mention specifically: the skirt is sewn by me from upcycled fabric cut from unusable old clothes. The fingerless gloves are a modified version of my Rambler’s Mitts.

The fringed leather bag is also handmade by me, constructed from upcycled suede scraps crocheted together with cotton thread, with a hand sewn stone setting in the front.

The gorgeously magical moth clip is from the Etsy Shop The Forest Fae ❀

I’ve watched too many internet videos of foxes jumping to not do this.

-MF