Babushka Cowl

December 28, 2022January 26, 2023 / reginaalexisweiss / 6 Comments

At least once per year I chance upon some ultra squishy treasure trove of bulky or super bulky weight yarn on clearance – usually in the summer. The super soft and extra thicc strands entice me as I run my fingers through the inviting tangle of coziness and I inevitably end up buying a huge pile of it! That was the story again this past summer when I came home from the craft store and had to find extra storage space under the coffee table to hide my winter-appropriate yarn until the weather turned icy enough to tempt me toward them again.

These yarns aren’t just sensorily seductive – a good pile of #6 super bulky weight yarn can allow you to bang out a larger crochet piece in no time at all! I love my old 11.5 mm crochet hook, a big awkward plastic thing I picked up at a garage sale eons ago. Me and that baby have made some pretty good projects, including the quick and super satisfying winter wearable pattern I have in store for you all today!

You can get the crochet pattern instructions right here on this blog post for FREE, or you can purchase the portable, ad-free PDF from my pattern stores to help support my art more directly <3 Find it in my Ravelry Store, Ko-Fi Shop, or Etsy Shop now – or keep scrolling for the free instructions!

Something like this piece has been in my ideas folder for a while, because I wanted to combine the bulky weight yarn with some beautiful knit-like surface texture to add to the visual appeal of what is otherwise a straightforward garment – the camel stitch is the perfect candidate for this in-the-round cowl that can be modified for a bunch of different but equally practical styles!

I named it the “Babushka Cowl” because I love the word, the style, and the meaning. Babushka is an endearing term for grandmother, but also a fabric headscarf often worn by said grandmothers. While the Babushka Cowl isn’t a headscarf, it IS a warming mantle appropriate for layering with winter outerwear in the coldest of climates – I pictured this cowl being thrown on to go feed the chickens or gather kindling, or simply to keep the chilly cabin air off of your neck and shoulders.

Babushka Cowl Pattern

Materials

11.5 mm hook
Recommended Yarn: Buttercream Luxe Craft Cozy (#6 Super Bulky, 87 yds / 200 g, 50% Superwash 50% Acrylic), 2-6 skeins
I used a few different #6 yarns for accents and trims, but the main yarn is the Buttercream Cozy.
Cowl: 2 skeins (174 yds)
Pointed Cowl: 3 skeins (261 yds)
Poncho + Hood: 6 skeins (522 yds)
Hood Only: 1 skein (87 yds)

Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
Scissors

Gauge: 3 sts & 2 rows = 2” in camel half double crochet

Sizes: Cowl (neck coverage only), Pointed Cowl (neck and chest only), Full Poncho (neck, chest, back)

Finished Measurements (Approximate, taken while lying flat):
Chest Circumference (all but Cowl): 54″ maximum
Cowl: 24” neck circumference, 10” length
Pointed Cowl: 24” neck, 24” max length in front
Poncho: 24” neck, 24” max length in front and back
Hood: 12” length, 10” depth

Above (left to right): Pointed Cowl w/ Hood, Full Poncho with Hood, Pointed Cowl w/ Hood.
Below (left to right): Cowl w/o Hood, Pointed Cowl w/o Hood

Stitches & Abbreviations

Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Half-double crochet (hdc)
Double crochet (dc)

Abbreviations:
Round (rnd)
Each (ea)
Stitch/stitches (st/sts)
Figure (fig)

Special Stitches:
Camel Half-double crochet (chdc):
Chdc is a regular hdc stitch worked into the middle strand of the back of the stitch below, instead of into the top two loops. This creates a surface texture that features the free top loops of the stitch on the right side (Example Image 1). To work this stitch, YO as for normal hdc, insert hook into the middle back loop of the stitch below. You can see which loop this is by referencing Example Images 2 & 3, in which the loops are highlighted blue. Draw up a loop, YO and draw through all loops on the hook. 1 chdc complete.

Example 1

Example 2: loops to be worked for camel stitch (top view)

Example 3: Loops to be worked (back view)

Camel Double crochet (cdc):
Cdc is a regular double crochet stitch worked into the middle strand of the back of the stitch below, instead of into the top two loops. This creates a surface texture that features the free top loops of the stitch on the right side (Ex. 4). To work this stitch, YO as for a normal dc, insert hook into the middle back loop of the stitch below (see Examples 5-6, loop is highlighted in purple). Draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 loops twice to complete the dc in the camel style.

Example 4: Camel double crochet, front view

Ex. 5: back view, loops to be worked highlighted in purple

Ex. 6: Top view, back

Chain 2 Picot (ch-2 pic):
A picot is a little bump created at the top of stitch by chaining and then slip stitching back into the top of the last stitch. Work the ch-2 picot in this pattern as follows: Chain 2 (Example Image 7). Insert hook diagonally into the top two loops at the front of the stitch (Ex. 8). YO and make a slip stitch (Ex. 9). Picot made! (Ex. 10)

Ex. 7

Ex. 8

Ex. 9

Ex. 10

Pattern Notes:

Worked in continuous rounds. Move marker for each round to mark round end.

Chains and picots do not count toward the stitch total at the end of each round.

Just a friendly reminder that I have a TIP JAR if you want to contribute a little somethin’ somethin’ to my artistic efforts – your support helps me keep providing quality free content!

Instructions (All Styles)

Ch. 40, sl st into the first ch to form a ring, making sure chain is not twisted – fig 1.

Fig. 1

Rnd 1: 1 sc in the same st as the join – fig 2. 1 hdc in ea of the next 40 sts – figs 3-4, placing last hdc in the first sc of the round – fig 5. Place stitch marker in last stitch made to mark the end of the round. – 40 hdc

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Rnd 2: Camel hdc (chdc – see Special Stitches) in ea stitch around – figs 6-7. – 40 sts

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

Rnd 3: Repeat round 2 – fig 8.

Fig. 8

From here the instructions diverge based on which version you are making. For a short cowl with no pointed sides and neck coverage only, follow Cowl instructions. For a cowl with one point in the front for chest coverage, follow Pointed Cowl instructions. For a full coverage piece pointed on the front and back, follow Poncho instructions.

Cowl:

Rnd 4: Camel double crochet (cdc – see Special Stitches) in ea st around. – 40 dc

Rnds 5-8: Rpt Rnd 4

Rnds 9-10: Camel hdc in ea st around.

Rnd 11: (Chdc in the next st, chdc with a ch-2 pic in the next st) rpt around until reaching 4 sts away from the end of the round. *1 sc in the next st, 1 sc with a ch-2 pic in the next st. Rpt from *. Sl st in the next st.

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving enough yarn to weave in the end.

Pointed Cowl:

Rnd 4: Camel hdc in ea of the next 19 sts. In the top two loops of the next st work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc – inc made – fig 9). Camel hdc in ea of the next 20 sts. – 41 sts

Fig. 9: Place marker in the ch-1 space of the increase.

Fig. 10

Rnd 5: Camel double crochet (cdc) in ea of the next 20 sts – fig 11, until reaching the ch-1 space of the increase on the previous round – fig 12. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) into the chain space – figs 13-14. Cdc into ea of the next 21 sts – 45 sts

Fig. 11

Fig. 12

Fig. 13 – be careful not to miss the first dc back loop after the increase, it may be tight and/or hard to see! Shown here highlighted in purple.

Fig. 14

Rnd 6: Chdc in ea of the next 22 sts, until reaching the ch-1 sp of the inc on previous rnd. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the ch sp – fig 15. Chdc in ea of the next 23 sts. – 47 sts

Fig. 15

Rnd 7: Cdc in ea of the next 23 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. Cdc in ea of the next 24 sts, fig 16. – 51 sts

Fig. 16

Rnd 8: Cdc in ea st until reaching the ch-1 space of the inc on the previous rnd. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. Cdc in ea st until reaching the end of the rnd. – 55 sts

Rnd 9: Rpt Rnd 8 – fig 17. – 59 sts

Fig. 17

Rnd 10: Chdc in ea of the next 10 sts. Cdc in ea of the next 19 sts – fig 18. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. Cdc in ea of the next 20 sts. Chdc in ea of the next 10 sts. – fig 19 – 63 sts

Fig. 18 – when switching colors, try to do so at the beginning of a round!

Fig. 19 – switching from chdc in the back to cdc in the front shortens the length on the back to make it easier to fit under & around coats!

Rnd 11: Chdc in ea of the next 10 sts. Cdc in ea of the next 21 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. Cdc in ea of the next 22 sts. Chdc in ea of the next 9 sts. – fig 20 – 67 sts

Fig. 20

Rnd 12: Cdc in ea st until reaching the ch-1 sp of the inc on the previous rnd. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. Cdc in ea st until reaching the end of the rnd. – 71 sts

Rnd 13: Rpt Rnd 12. – 75 sts

Rnd 14: (Cdc in the next st, Cdc with ch-2 picot in the next st) repeat until reaching the ch-1 space of the increase in the round below – fig 21. Dc into the ch sp, ch-2 picot – fig 22. (Cdc in the next st, cdc with ch-2 picot in the next st) rpt until 5 sts away from the end of round. Chdc in ea of the next 3 sts. Sc in ea of the next 2 sts. Sl st in the next st. – fig 23

Fig. 21

Fig. 22

Fig. 23

Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing on the hood (optional).

Poncho:

Rnd 4: Camel hdc in ea of the next 19 sts. In the top two loops of the next st work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc – inc made). Camel hdc in ea of the next 19 sts. In the top two loops of the next st work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc). – 42 sts.

Place a marker in ea of the ch-1 spaces of the increases and in the first stitch of the round. Move these markers with each new round made to keep track of where the rounds begin and end and where to place the increases.

Rnd 5: Cdc in ea of the next 20 sts, until reaching the ch-1 space of the inc on the previous rnd. (2 dc, ch-1, 2 dc) into the ch space. Cdc into ea of the next 21 sts. – fig 24. (2 dc, ch-1, 2 dc) into the ch sp. 1 Cdc in the last st – fig 25 – 50 sts

Fig. 24 – don’t forget to mark both increases AND the beginning of the round

Fig. 25

Rnd 6: 1 Chdc in ea stitch around until reaching the first marked ch-1 sp. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the marked space. 1 chdc in ea st around until reaching the 2nd marked ch-1 sp. (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the marked space. Chdc until reaching the end of the round – fig 26. – 54 sts

Fig. 26

Rnd 7: 1 Cdc in ea st around, until reaching the first ch-1 sp. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. 1 cdc in ea st around until reaching the 2^nd ch-1 sp. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch sp. 1 cdc in ea of the remaining sts of the round. – 62 sts

Rnds 8-14: Rpt Rnd 7 – 82 sts

Rnd 15: (Cdc in the next st, Cdc with ch-2 picot in the next st) repeat until reaching the ch-1 space of the increase in the round below. *Dc into the ch sp, ch-2 picot, ch 1, dc in the same space, ch-2 picot.* (Cdc in the next st, cdc with ch-2 picot in the next st) rpt until reaching the next ch-1 increase. Rpt from * to *. (Cdc in the next st, cdc with ch-2 picot in the next st) rpt until 5 sts away from the end of round. Chdc in ea of the next 3 sts. Sc in ea of the next 2 sts. Sl st in the next st. – 84 sts

Fig. 27

Cut yarn and tie off.

Hood (Optional):

For the hood pictured above, I used Lion Brand Go For Faux Thick & Quick for the final row of the hood and skipped the cords & trim.

Ch 12 – fig 28.

Fig. 28

Row 1: 1 hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook (first 2 ch sts count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 ch sts. Hdc 5 times in the next st – fig 29 – rotate the piece, beginning down the opposite side of the ch work: 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. 1 hdc in the last st which is the last 2 ch sts of beg ch. – fig 30 – 25 hdc

Fig. 29

Fig. 30

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts – fig 31. (2 hdc in the next st) 5 times – fig 32. 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts, working final st in the top of the turning ch of row below. – 30 hdc

Fig. 31

Fig. 32

Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), turn. 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts – fig 33. (2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st) 5 times – fig 34. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts, working the final st in the top of the turning ch of the row below. – 35 hdc

Fig. 33

Fig. 34

Hood should be about 10 inches tall from base to top of the curved end – fig 35.

Fig. 35

Rows 4 – 12: Ch 2, turn. 1 hdc in ea st. – 35 hdc
Figs 36-37 show hood beginning to take shape after Row 7.

Fig. 36

Fig. 37

After completing Row 12, cut yarn leaving a long tail for seaming the hood to the cowl, and fasten off.

Attaching the Hood & Adding Trim

To attach your hood to the cowl, find the center beginning chain of the hood and mark it with a stitch marker at the bottom edge – fig 38. Locate the beginning stitch on your original chain loop of the cowl. The middle of the hood should align with the middle back of the cowl.

Fig. 38

Count 17 stitches away from the center back of the cowl on either side. This is where the edges of the hood should land when you are finished sewing it on. I recommend using stitch markers to pin the hood down on these edges.

Fig. 39

Using a length of yarn and a tapestry needle, sew down the hood into the loops from the beginning chain – fig 39. This will be done by sewing a hdc stitch on the row end to 1 chain loop on the cowl edge, then sewing the next hdc stitch on the row end to 2 chain loops on the cowl edge, repeating this pattern of 2 hdc stitches per 3 chain loops until it is all sewn down – fig 40. Check to make sure the hood is even, then weave in the ends.

Fig. 40

To add decorative ties and trim to your hood, chain 30-35 stitches (or about 20 inches in length). Slip stitch back down the stitches of your chain – fig 41. At the edge of the hood, slip stitch to attach your cord – fig 42.

Fig. 41

Fig. 42

Begin to slip stitch around the top row of the hood, keeping your stitches fairly loose – fig 43. Once the other edge of the hood is reached, chain the same length as the first cord, then slip stitch back down this chain length to complete the second cord – fig 44.

Fig. 43

Fig. 44

Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in any remaining ends.

Thankfully, this photoshoot didn’t involve single digit temperatures like some of my other bulky winter projects have! If you’re interested in more thick and quick crochet project patterns, check out some of my other offerings:

From Left to Right: Ushanka and Muff Set (Free), Winter Poncho (Free or Paid), Rambler’s Mitts (Free or Paid), Woodsman’s Wife Ruana (Paid)

I’m really feeling accomplished as I close off the year with this new and fun little design, not the least because I made a lot of room on my yarn shelves by using up all that thick yarn!

I’ll be using the down time now to relax, reflect, and recharge for the new year – I hope you have a chance to do the same, and many blessings to you all <3 <3 <3 Thank you as always for your continued support!

-MF

Holidaze

November 23, 2021November 23, 2021 / reginaalexisweiss / Leave a comment

I’m so grateful for the gorgeous autumn we’ve had here this year, and the abundant opportunities to go play outside before the weather got truly chilling.

Now unfortunately my toes are icicles when I go out to exercise in the morning and the slush season appears imminent, but why bemoan that when I have a huge yarn stash to disappear under for the winter? 😉

Yep, my busiest time of the year for Morale Fiber has passed and now I have the busiest time of the year for family upcoming, with all the coziest home bakes and warm blankets. This fall has been especially hectic because I’ve operated everything having to do with the digital side of running Morale Fiber from my phone, having lost my laptop to a hardware crash this past summer.

Combined with a bunch of other fun personal life happenings, I’ve really had a juggling act on my hands. Thats why I’ve decided to take a little digital vacation this season!

*Pictured above*: *playing with my* *Yearling Headband* *in the studio last year*

Beginning November 25, I’ll be taking a digital vacation from posting on the Morale Fiber blog & social media. Don’t worry, I’ll still be answering all my emails & messages – so as always don’t hesitate to contact me with pattern questions 🙂 But I’ll be using the extra time to focus on family, friends, and being present in the moment instead of on my phone <3 I’ll be back on my social media game (and hopefully on a new laptop) in the New Year!

But of course, it’s just a *digital* vacation – I have lots of real life projects heaped on my desk. Wanna see?

First up is what I’ve been working on the past few days – a batch run of my Flower Child Pullover design, linked above. This is to get my brain reacquainted with this crochet pattern so I can record some video tutorials for it:)

I gathered a pile of colors inspired by succulent plants 🪴 for this batch! In #4 weight acrylics, this design is really great as a scrapbuster and color therapy project 🌈

I’ve gotten a bunch of questions on this design recently so I thought it was time for a good overview! My dearest ambition is to get this pattern expanded for larger sizes, but I need to actually figure out how how do that first! Haha 😉

I’ve also got a fistful of BIG new designs in the works, but most of then are a good while from being completed – I only just finished the main draft of the shawl design I mention in my latest business video, after a significant stay in the Misbehaving Project Time-Out Corner…

I haven’t been doing any custom crochet work for a while now, because the digital side of Morale Fiber takes so much time these days, but it’s definitely Gift Crafting season and it’s got me thinking about all the quick, easy and FREE patterns I have available on this blog – so I’d like to end this little journal entry with a collection of crochet patterns for gift ideas! 🎁 follow the links below to go to the free pattern 🧚‍♀️

That’s just my personal gift project faves this year, there are plenty more FREE crochet patterns listed on my Free Patterns Page – if you enjoy all the free content please consider becoming a Patreon supporter for Morale Fiber! 💟🙌

Thanks and please have yourself a happy, safe, healthy holiday season! 😊

-MF

Rhiannon Cowl Crochet Pattern

October 11, 2019January 5, 2023 / reginaalexisweiss / 21 Comments

Eons ago (it seems) I designed a hooded cowl that was both simply constructed and could be worn several different ways. It started as just a scrap-buster, and I made a couple with random yarns and colors. The result was a fun project that was easy enough for beginner crocheters but was more interesting than just a plain old scarf. I dubbed it the Rhiannon Cowl after one of my favorite mythological deities.

And yeah, after the song too. Although I’m enough of a fantasy nerd that I knew about the goddess before I knew about the pop song. But I digress.

That was 2015. It didn’t take long before my pattern writing style changed, and I started rebooting some of my older files – the Rhiannon Cowl has been on the makeover list for a LONG time, partly because I have intended to make it available for free.

Today I’m excited to finally be releasing the FULL pattern plus tutorial photos here for FREE – or get the spiffy new downloadable, ad-free file now available in my Etsy Shop , Ko-fi Shop, and Ravelry Store 🙂

I’ve made a couple changes to the pattern itself – I eliminated the #5 bulky weight instructions in favor of adding a new size: Large. This size is easier to wear doubled up (the Small can be a little tight that way) and will be wearable as a vest for a wider range of bodies.

I also got rid of the specific yarn requirements. I’ve always thought this pattern looks best as a scrap-buster and so I’ve left the yarn requirements general to reflect that – I used *mostly* worsted weight but some bulky weight sneaked in too and I think it looks great that way 🙂

I hope you like this fun, quick, fantasy inspired project as much as I do (now that its been gussied up) <3

Materials:
5.00 mm hook
500-800 yds worsted weight yarn – spare yarns work great for this piece!
Scissors
Tapestry Needle

Gauge: 6 sts and 3 rows = 2”

Finished Measurements:
Small- Approx. 72” circumference at the front
                ~ 40” circumference at the back
                ~ 15” wide
Large- Approx. 90” circumference at the front
                ~ 50” circumference at the back
                ~15” wide

Stitches and Abbreviations:

st / sts: stitch/stitches

DCh: double chain – see my tutorial here:
http://bit.ly/33nFcYe

If preferred, a regular chain stitch may be substituted for the double chain

ch: chain.

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

tr: treble crochet

sk: skip

rpt: repeat

rnd: round

ea: each

(parentheses): instructions inside parentheses are to be repeated the number of times indicated just outside the parentheses. When parentheses are followed by “around” it means repeat the instructions until you finish the entire round.

beg: beginning. Refers to the first stitch or set of stitches made for the current row or round, i.e – “beg ch-4” refers to the 4 chain stitches made at the beginning of the round you are working.

counts as / does not count as… : The first chain stitches at the beginning of the round are to gain height to start your round. Because this chain sequence is the same height as the stitches, it occasionally counts as the first stitch of the round and will be the stitch to which you join the end of your round. If this chain does not count as the first stitch, you will skip it completely and join the end of your round to the next stitch after the chain stitches.

Size Changes: This pattern is written for two sizes: Small and Large. The instructions are written so that whenever there are two different instructions (a size change) those changes appear concurrently separated by a comma. Smalls follow the first number given, Larges follow the second number. So in “(1 dc into each of the next 9 sts, 2 dc into the next st) 15, 19 times.” Smalls will repeat within parentheses 15 times, Larges will repeat 19 times.

Instructions:

Foundation: DCh 160, 200. Join with a slip stitch to the first DCh stitch to form a loop. Be careful not to twist.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st as join. 1 dc in ea of the next 159, 199 sts. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. – 160, 200 sts

Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 79, 99 times. Join with a sl st in the 3^rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 3: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc into the same st as join. 1 dc into each of the next 159, 199 Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round.

Rnd 4: Rpt Rnd 2.

Rnd 5: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc , dc into the same st as join. 1 Dc into each of the next 8 stitches, 2 dc into the next st. (1 dc into each of the next 9 sts, 2 dc into the next st) 15, 19 times. Join with a slip st in the first dc of the round. – 176, 220 sts

Rnd 6: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 87, 109 times. Join with a sl st in the 3^rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 7: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc into the same st as join. 1 dc into each of the next 175, 219 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. – 176, 220 sts

Rnd 8: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 87, 109 times. Join with a sl st in the 3^rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 9: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st as join. 1 dc into ea of the next 9 sts, 2 dc in the next st. (1 dc into ea of the next 10 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 15, 19 times. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. – 192, 240 sts

Rnd 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 95, 119 times. Join with a sl st in the 3^rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 11: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. 1 dc in each of the next 191, 239 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round. – 192, 240 sts

Rnd 12: Rpt Rnd 10.

Rnd 13: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 dc in the next st. (1 dc into ea of the next 11 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 15, 19 times. – 208, 260 sts

Rnd 14: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1, (sk 1 st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 103, 129 times. Join with a sl st in the 3^rd ch of beg ch-4.

Rnd 15: Ch 3 – does not count as first dc, dc in the same st. Work 1 dc in ea of the next 207, 259 sts. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round.

Rnd 16: Rpt Rnd 14. Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Hood

Fold in the piece in half, aligning the fold along the joining seam. Join new yarn at this corner – you will be crocheting into two layers of the scarf at once. MAKE SURE you are crocheting into the foundation round, NOT round 16.

Rnd 17: (Work 1 sl st into the next st, working into both layers) 25 times. Ch 3.

Now working in only ONE layer and inserting hook into the bottom of each foundation chain stitch, (sk next st, dc in the next st, ch 1) 52, 72 times. Sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, ch 1. Join with the first ch-1 of the round.

The circle of stitches worked through one layer only will form the base of the next round – you will no longer be working into the 26 stitch seam that forms the back of the hood.

Rnd 18: Ch 3, dc in the same st and in ea st around. sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Leaf Motif Tie

1^st Leaf: Ch 5. Join with a sl st to form a ring. Ch 3 – counts as first dc, 6 dc, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, 7 dc into the ring. Join with a sl stitch to the 3^rd ch of beg ch-3.

To begin the double chain, insert hook into one loop of the stitch below the slip stitch join and work one sc. Insert hook into the side bar of the single crochet. Draw up a loop (2 lps on hook). Yarn over and draw through two loops on the hook (one DCh stitch completed). Double chain 160, 200.

2nd Leaf. – At the end of the double chain, Ch 5. Join with a sl stitch to the 5^th ch from the hook to form a ring. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 6 dc, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, 7 dc into the ring. Join with a sl st to the first dc, then secure the top of the leaf onto the DCh cord with another slip stitch. Cut yarn and tie off.

Weave in all yarn ends!

Starting at the base of the hood, weave half of the tie in and out of the spaces between the dc stitches of Rnd 17. Weave the other half through the spaces of the opposite side. Ta-da! Your brand new cowl awaits your woodland adventures!

Wear it as a hood with the drawstring tied to form a warm capelet scarf – hood down, it becomes a shawl! Place the hood on from the back and place arms through the back opening to wear as a scarf vest, or double up the scarf loop around the neck for extra toastiness.