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~*MF*~
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is there any chance of any video of the lotus mandala circle vest – sleeves – and the Stevie being made??? I cannot make heads or tails of the instructions at all – confusing to me. Video instructions would be most helpful and I can stop frogging my attempts to make the vest. I would love to have a finished product. I love the way the center of yours is – it is not as bulky as all the others I have watched, and yours hangs better.
Hi Sandra! I have given permission for one or two other crocheters to make a video tutorial for the Mandala vest – I assume you’ve seen the one linked in the post, but I’ll throw the link in here anyway:
I don’t give permission for the lotus duster pattern, though the central mandala is the same until Rnd 16 so the video for the vest would help for the duster as well. I’d like to do a video for the duster myself, but I can’t say yet whether I will for sure.
One tip I can give for how the duster and the vest “hang” is yarn choice – I usually use thin, natural fiber yarns for these. Acrylics or thicker wools are not usually good at getting the drape right.
Thank you so much!! I am very excited to try to make this. I have never made any kind of clothing before. I didn’t know that video was your vest. OMG I can’t wait, thank you again!!!
Sent from my iPhone
>
No problem! Let me know if you have any other questions! 🙂
First and foremost THANK YOU for working SO HARD on all of your patterns. I wondered if you have thought about or had to do a video Row 17 to the end to create the Lotus Duster 2.0? I am in LOVE and would pay extra to get access to a video (Already have Row 1-16 from the circular vest. Im going to message you on FB also. YOUR AMAZING!
Aww, thank you so much 🙂 🙂 Your words have brightened my day <3 I have had the Lotus Duster Mandala video on my to-do list for some time, and I really hope to have it out by summer, but since I work full-time it's hard to tell. Thanks so much for your input and I'll definitely keep it top-priority!
I need help mmy circle mandala vest will not lay flat in center
Hi Jennifer,
Can you tell me what round/rounds seem to be the problem and what yarn and hook you are using?
Hey there! I’m absolutely in love with the mandala pattern, and it’s my first big project (Boy, was it ever a task to take on, but I’m enjoying it.) But, I have myself to round 14, and every time I do it, I suddenly wind up with a very tight round that sort of makes a jellyfish shape. I know it’s an easy enough round, I’m just not sure what I’ve got going on, or how to fix it. I’ve even given the video a good watch, and even though I copy it, I seem to still have the same problem. It’s almost like I don’t have enough chains to make it the right diametre.
Hi Kait! I’m so glad you are enjoying the pattern so far – we’ll have a go at figuring out what is going on with your Rnd 14! My first question is what yarn and hook you are using?
I am using a 5.75 hook as it seemed to be all that I could find in the 5 region. My yarn, and I realized after I bought my pretty colours that it was the wrong weight, is Red Hearts Soft yarn, weight 4. That all might be my problem, but up until this point it hasn’t given me any troubles. I really appreciate you getting back to me. It, makes working through the pattern seem so much more worth it to know there is someone who cares to help with their work.
No problem at all! 🙂 Probably good that your hook is just a little bigger than the recommended because that yarn will likely gauge differently, but since it hasn’t caused any problems so far my suggestion is to double check all of your stitch counts in the last few rounds if you haven’t already. Also, have you worked any “extra” rounds? Those are the ones specifically marked as extra rounds for sizing up in the pattern, so if you haven’t encountered any so far then don’t worry about that. If your stitch counts are on target, is it possible to send me a photo through e-mail or my Facebook page? I can take a look and try to find the problem visually (often pretty helpful when someone is stuck on a round like this)
I’ve been on target so far, in terms of stitch counts, but with some adamant stubbornness, I may have managed to fix it. It’s not curling in so hard on itself, but I also loosened my stitches up, and tried chaining one extra on the areas I’d be adding scallops in on the next round. I assume that that wouldn’t make too much trouble for me, in the long run? I can definitely send some pictures along though.
As far as pattern repeats go, you should be fine to go ahead and add the scallops to the widened chain spaces for the next round and not have any problems, hopefully that works well for your gauge! If you want I can take a look at pictures of that round just to see if there is anything more I can suggest that might be helpful just in case- you can send them to moralefiber(at)yahoo.com or to my messenger on my business FB page:
http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber
🙂
Hello! I’m trying to make your scrappy granny shawl and I feel like I must be doing something wrong but I can’t figure it out. I’ve only done 6 rows but the top of it is curving up a lot. It’s not straight or even near straight (which I could live with). I tried re-doing it twice making sure to crochet looser but it’s still curving up. Is this normal? Will it straighten out as I get further and the shawl gets heavier? Thanks so much!
Hi there! The Granny Shawl should have a gentle “bow” curve to the widest or top edge of the piece that will look more severe in the first few rows before more weight is added. This curve should have the apex higher that the edge corners of the same side when allowed to lay naturally – in other words the top should be a loose curve not a “tight” one – I hope that makes sense! If this curve is too severe, the cure would be to crochet your chains tighter.
If your curve is the opposite – too tight compared to the bottom – you should crochet your chains looser. Does that make sense? If not, you can send me a picture of your piece via e-mail (moralefiber(at)yahoo.com) or through my Facebook page – http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber
and I can definitely help you figure out what’s going on! 🙂
Thank you!! I re-started again and got a few rows further and it’s looking a bit better. It’s nice to know it’s supposed to have some kind of curve. Also thank you for taking the time to help people with your patterns! 😀
Thank you so much!! 😀 😀 Let me know if you have any other questions <3
Hello Regina,
I’ve purchased your wonderful pattern for the Lotus Mandala Duster. I am making sort of a combo of different stitches from 2 other patterns for the circle section and going to finish with the rest of your duster pattern. My question for you is could you please tell me how many inches across is your circle section? I’m also on Ravelry if you would like to check my project page…
Thanx so much!
Tina
Hi Tina! If you mean how many inches is the entire body of the duster (which is a big circle) those measurements (in radius & diameter) can be found in the notes at the beginning of the pattern. If you meant how many inches is the central mandala motif (which I usually make a different color than the rest of the duster), it is approximately 19-20″ in diameter 🙂 Sounds like an interesting project – I’d love to check it out on ravelry!
Hi Regina,
Thanx for the fast reply! ahhaha, I should’ve asked about the central motif! Silly me! Yes that is what I was asking about. That helps me immensely!!
Yes, feel free to check it out. You can find me by using the first part of my e-mail address. Have yourself a great one! 😉
Hi Regina! I love your patterns and I purchased the mandala top but I can not understand the way to put both sides together. Do you have video instructions for this top and for the sleeves? I’m tyring to do it but I got stuck in round 10. Let me know. Thank you!
Hi Lorna! Unfortunately I don’t have video instructions for that, but I can definitely send you some pictures via e-mail or if you message my Facebook business page, which is at http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber. Which part of Rnd 10 in particular did you get stuck on?
I was wondering if it’s possible to do Tunisian crochet with a regular hook? Just learning this style for your fantasy hat.
Hi Paula! Unfortunately you do need a Tunisian hook for the fantasy hat pattern because you will be keeping multiple stitches on the hook so you’ll need the long hook shaft and the stopper on the end that is featured in Tunisian hooks. I have used a regular hook with a cork on the end to make smaller projects, such as washcloths, but the hood is too big for that method.
Just ran across these comments and want to mention using double ended crochet hooks for Tunisian work. You have to use two strands of yarn for it to work but I love it, not being physically able to work a long hook full of fabric. There are YouTube videos easily searchable. The very best hooks ever for this are addi doubled ended hooks. A bit of work to find them but they are available and relatively inexpensive. The engineering on them is great. Happy hooking!
Oh awesome! Thanks for the tip – I will definitely have to check that out. My convertible circular knitting needles are Addi brand and I adore them 😀
i need help in understanding this pattern it says purl in the first vertical bar (holding the yarn in back of work pull up 2 lps ? in the afghan st . purl next 2 st across huh i know how to do purl stitch and i no how to do afghan st but it says pull up 2 lps
Hi Jenny – can you tell me which pattern you are referring to? Thanks!
Hey there! I’m having a hard time figuring out step 25 of the 2.0 version of the lotus duster. The step says to sc in ch-1 spaces, but there are ch-3 spaces in step 24, with only one ch-1 right before the hdc to connect to the beginning ch-3. Where are those sc stitches supposed to go? Thanks for the help and thanks for sharing this amazing pattern!
Oops! That should definitely say (Sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4), not ch-1! Your single crochets should go in the ch-3 spaces of the previous round. Thanks so much for catching that – I’ll update the pattern right away 🙂
I assumed that might be the case. 😉 I think step 26 might say ch-1 space, also.
Thank you, I will check that out 🙂
How do I elongate the point for the tunisian fantasy hood? I saw a picture and it looked awesome.
Hi Ashley! To elongate the hood, you should add a few rows of regular stitching (not increasing at the ends but just working a TSS in every stitch) for each row that you increase. So that would look something like: increase on the ends for a row, work 2 rows without increases, increase on the ends, 2 rows without etc…
That’s the method I use for the pointed part of my Trickster Hood pattern, which is the “deluxe” version of the free Tunisian Fantasy Hood pattern. If you are interested in working from that pattern, it can be found in my Etsy shop or Ravelry store – but of course you can do the alteration I described on the free pattern and get something similar 🙂
Thank you so much
Any time! 🙂
I’m making the Tunisian ripple scarf and I keep getting a bulge at the decrease. Any advice? I can send you a picture via email at ashlain@me.com. Thanks!
Hi there! Good news is that it’s totally normal to have a bulge at the decrease – it may look more or less dramatic depending on the yarn you’re using, but if you want to minimize the appearance of that, you can take the scarf when you are finished and gently stretch it from end to end, then spread it out on a blocking board wet it down with a spray bottle and let air dry. That will help settle everything out nicely 🙂
After looking over my piece, I found a way to get rid of the bulge entirely without affecting the integrity of the pattern. I started doing a return pass decrease where the stitches naturally separate on the hook. It looks a little something like this: Yo, pull thru 1 loop, *yo, pull thru 2 loops* repeat 9 times, dec, *yo, pull thru 2 loops* repeat 11 times, dec, *yo, pull thru 2 loops* repeat 11 times. I think that’s right, I’m not very good at writing patterns.
Awesome! As long as it works for you 🙂
I want to make the Lotus Duster, how many extra rows did you add to make it that long? I do understand the need to increase also, I am just trying to figure out for length
Hi Lisa! Almost all of the dusters I have made have followed the Lotus Duster pattern and don’t have any extra rows (except for the red one – that one was done a little differently.) Which one were you looking at in particular?
I am absolutely in love with the Lotus Duster and just purchased your pattern. I very much want to create one close to the original variegated hues of purple/beige/blue that you created. Would you mind telling me the colors and yarn you used? I know you stated it was re-purposed yarn. What I am trying to figure out is where in the instructions you changed thread color. The medallion looks like one variegated skein color with maybe a solid beige, a solid light purple and a solid dark purple used on the rest of the duster. If I knew what rows you changed thread color I could find a compatible yarn to make mine with.
Hi Donna! I’m so glad to hear you like the design 🙂 I can definitely tell you where I switched colors and more about my color scheme, but can you clarify which duster you mean? I am pretty sure you mean this one: https://moralefiber.files.wordpress.com/2016/06/stevie9.jpg?w=676
but just checking!
I will go ahead and post the changes for that one so you have them but if you were thinking of a different one just let me know 🙂
Yarns used: Color A – handspun,variegated yarn in dark purple, light purple, light blue, and light sea green
Color B – Recycled cotton/wool blend Sweater yarn in beige/taupe color
Color C – #2 weight cotton blend commercial yarn Bernat Cotton-ish in “Coffee Filter” (this yarn has been discontinued unfortunately)
Start with Color A, work Color A through Rnd 15. Switch to Color B
Work Color B from Rnd 16 through Rnd 24. Switch to Color C
Work Color C from Rnd 25 through Rnd 32. Switch to Color A
Work Color A for Rnd 33 and 34 only. Switch to Color B.
Work Color B for Rnds 35 and 36 only. Switch to Color C
Work Color C for final round.
Sleeves are worked in Color B except for the final couple rows of dc on the trim, which I use colors A and B for an accent 🙂
Yes! That is the one.
Thank you so very much. I am currently finishing up a small child circle sweater and will start this one upon completion of it. I will spend some time in my favorite yarn shop finding alternate yarn for the discontinued color.
No problem 🙂 🙂 Sounds awesome!
I am working on your Stevie Duster. It is a beautiful pattern. I am having a little trouble though. Apparently you are much smaller than I, so I need to make some adjustments. You wrote that from arm hole to arm hole measured 13. Mine measures 26, so I need to make it larger. Do I crochet more rows before beginning my arm holes, or do I just begin the arm holes on the indicated row and widen the distance between them? But if I do the latter, it seems the arm holes would be placed farther down on the duster. Anyway, if you can help with additional row count, or any further directions, I would so much appreciate it.
Hi Regina. It’s me again. I guess I should mention I’m working from the old pattern. I didn’t realize there was an updated one until last night. I’m curgently at the beginning of Row 21.
Oh good, that was my next question! lol. I would recommend adding rounds both before and after the armhole to adjust the size. The easiest option to do this is to switch to the new pattern, the Lotus Duster 2.0. You can do this without losing ALL of your work, and it will make it much easier to add rounds. You can use all of your rounds previously from the old pattern up to round 13. From there, the Large options in the new pattern (written & labeled as “Extra Rnd 13.X”, Extra Rnd 20.X”, etc) add rows before and after the armholes. These optional rounds can even be repeated MORE times than the pattern says, if you’d like to increase the size further than the Large (measurements for the final Large are listed at the top of the pattern). That way, when you move the armholes further apart, it won’t off-balance the piece.
Some of the rounds can be repeated more than others (since it’s a circle, if the rounds are not increasing they can only be repeated a few times before the circle starts to buckle). Here’s a quick guide:
Extra Rounds 13.1 & 13.2 – Add extra rounds here in pattern, such that Rnds 13.3 & 13.4 have increases in the 26th st and 27th st respectively, adding as many rounds as you want as long as you stay in pattern with the increases
Extra Rounds 17. 1 & 20.1 – each of these rounds can be repeated as written, but only a limited amount of times before the circle stops laying flat because there are no increases in these rounds.
Extra Rnd 31.1 – can be repeated a few times
Sleeves Step 1 – can work 4 dc’s to each ch space in the sleeve instead of 3 (as for Large), keep number of dc’s in the chain stitches the same
I hope that is helpful and if you have any other questions don’t hesitate to ask! 🙂
I also am curious on this.
Thank you so much! That is what I will do. I am making it for my daughter, who is my size, and then my youngest daughter, who is close to your size, wants one. It is such a beautiful pattern, and I’m a huge stevie fan. ThanKS again and I will send pics.
Heather
Glad to help! <3 Sounds awesome, so glad your daughters like the design! 🙂
Hi Regina.
Have another question about the Stevie pattern. On the old pattern, Rnds 23 & 24 call for 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in same st, sk 2 sps. The new one calls for ch3 and sk 3 sts. I am using the new pattern and making it in the larger size. Also, I like the more ruffled pattern. So my question is, should I use Rnds 23 & 24 from the old pattern or from the new?
Good question! If you like the more ruffled version, you can use the old pattern after your armhole rounds have been worked, but you’ll want to add some extra rounds in the mesh portion of the pattern (where there is a single crochet, then a chain length, then another single crochet) to keep it a large size 🙂
Ok. Thank you. I will add maybe 3 or 4 extra rounds. Do you think that will be enough, or should I add more?
3-4 should be good, I would do one extra for each time the number goes up, for example the first part of the mesh is a (sc, ch-4) repeat on rounds 25-26, so add an extra round to that section doing a sc, ch-4 rpt. Then the next section (rnds 27-30) is the sc, ch-5 repeat, so add an extra round there with the ch-5 repeat. When you get to the sc, ch-6 repeat on Rnd 31, you can add an extra round of that and if you still think it needs extra length, another round of the sc, ch-6. I think that should get you the extra length without affecting the ruffle of the circle 🙂
Thank you for such a detailed explanation. That makes perfect sense! I can’t wait to see my finished piece. It is coming along beautifully!
Awesome! 🙂 🙂 Glad I could help!
I am making your market bag. Could you tell me the approximate size? And if I want to make it larger should I just add rounds? Thanks for the help.
Carolyn
Hi Carolyn! I can’t seem to locate the original to measure, but I would estimate the bottom circle comes out somewhere around 7 – 9 “, which makes a smallish bag about 12-13” tall when finished. If you want to increase the width, you can keep adding in-pattern increases to the bottom circle before working the mesh rounds 🙂
Hi! I am wondering if on the Lotus Mandala Duster Larger size, if I cut the yarn and reattach for the 1/2 rounds? Because where I started the round is beneath the arm holes and to make it even is greater than 191 “V” stitches!
Thank you so much in advance!!
Hi Tanya,
You can definitely place the half-rounds wherever you like on the duster to make them even 🙂 They should be even as written in the Large size unless you modified the armholes or other portion of the duster at some point – unless there was a miscount somewhere?
I just want to thank you for all your wonderful free patterns. It really takes a special talent to come up with these designs and to translate them into patterns. I’ve had lots of compliments from the clothes I made with your designs.
Aww thank you! You have made my day <3
I need some help with the pattern please. I am making it bigger. Can you reply please. Thank you so much.
Hi there! Which pattern are you working on?
Hi, I am working on the flower child pullover, making it as a gift for a friend with a 50″ bust. How many repeats of round 8 should I do?
Or are there other adjustments I could make that would be better for increasing the size?
Hi Tiffany! I would recommend doing at least 2 repeats of Rnd 8 if you can. If your circle starts to tighten up and you’d still like to add more space, you could also substitute the dc in your Rnd 8 (and repeats) for treble crochet! 🙂 If you do substitute the trebles, you should also do trebles instead of doubles in Rnd 9. Hope that helps!
Thank you so much!
hi,
gorgeous crocheted moral fiber duster. cakeuntil round 11, too tight, curls.
then real trouble with row 12. took it out, think I need to remove row 11 and re read unless u have suggestions .
little unclear at beg of row 12. ” ch3, counts as first Tr with last loop on hk”
what last loop on hk? just not undersranding.
thanks
Hi Carol! If your Rnd 11 is coming out too tight, I would try sizing up your hook just for that round alone so that it lays flat. If that doesn’t do the trick, you can probably get away with chaining two in between your sc and dc sts with the normal sized hook 🙂
In Rnd 12, the triangular shapes are formed by working a treble 3 together (tr3tog) where each treble occupies a dc, sc, and the next dc from Rnd 11, skipping the chain stitches in between. The tr3tog is composed of 3 trebles where the last loop is not worked off in the hook (skipping the last step of a normal treble). Then, once you have three of these trebles with the last loops left on the hook, you work them all off at once. 🙂
I don’t know if you are working from the paid PDF version of this pattern (the blog version does not have step by step photos) but if you need more pictures for reference, the page for vest version of this design has better close-ups. That page can be found here:
https://moralefiber.blog/2016/06/05/lotus-mandala-circular-vest/
Thanks and I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.
Love the Lotus Mandala. Should the instructions be exactly the same on both arms? The pattern isn’t coming out the same on both. Do you know what I could be doing wrong?
Hi Melissa! Yes, the pattern should be repeated exactly on both arms. Can you tell me how it is coming out differently?
I’m at the round where you make the arm holes in the lotus duster, but even the large isn’t big enough for my arms to fit comfortably into. I’m worried about improvising and messing up the stitch counts later on. Do you have any suggestions?
Hi Kate! You can definitely add stitches to the armholes to get a larger fit, I recommend adding chain stitches in multiples of three, and skipping an additional chain space for every three chain stitches added to the arm hole. Your total stitch counts will not match the pattern after that, but as long as you just repeat around, you should be fine.
The only area that would be troublesome is the half rounds, which will be off-center a little if you do expand the armholes, but the best way to solve that is to just count your total stitches and calculate how many is half, then use that number instead of the number given in the pattern 🙂 I hope that helps!
I am having trouble connecting the front and back pieces of the flower child pull over
Hi Lisa! Can you tell me a little more about where you are getting stuck?
Hi Regina,
l love your designs. You are very talented! But, I believe there is a mistake on the Plus Size Mehndi Halter Top. The stitches in row two only equal 102 not the 103 as listed.
Thanks,
Evelyn
Hi Evelyn, and thank you! I double checked the math and am still coming out with 103 sts – did you count the very first hdc at the beginning?
Hi Regina,
I just started the Spiral Sweater for my Daughter in Law, I have never made clothing before, so that’s scaring me some, but the arm hole looks so small. I’m heavy so my arm wont fit. Im just worried. Do you know how big it should be? Thanks for any help.
Christy
Hi Christy! What size are you making, and what is the length of the armhole you are coming out with (measured from the first dc before the chains to the first dc after the ch stitches)?
Hey Regina
I’m hoping you can help me out with the Krampus Hat…
I’ve just reached round 19 and my piece seems VERY small (just over 10cm diameter); it seems unlikely it’s going to get to a wearable size before I stop increasing. Have I done something wrong?
Cheers
Keith
Hi Keith! The gauge listed for the hat is 2″ in diameter after Rnd 7 – did you check your gauge before you started? What yarn and hook are you using?
That moment when you’ve re-read the pattern thirty times, checked your hook size thirty times, counted your stitches thirty times each round and then post a question to the designer ONLY to realise you working with the wrong gauge yarn *sigh*. I’ve just become one of those people, what a muppet!
Thanks so much though, can’t wait to get this finished 😀
Oh no! I have definitely had that moment too, yikes! Glad it’s figured out though, a mystery solved is preferable to a continued one no matter the outcome lol
Krampus hat: I am known as Tami Carl on Facebook and had commented one of the posts. In your photos the hat looks so loose and airy where mine turned out so tight on my head that I can’t really get into it. I did use”I love this yarn” and the G hook which is the 4.5mm. I went up to the H Hook which is the 5mm and it’s still tight. I am moving up to the I hook, hoping that will work, I am hoping that the loopy “hair” will look like they flow like in your photos. I am chaining 7 like the pattern says, if it is still tight I may do the loops every other row or stitch.
Any feedback would be great. I really don’t know how to explain it to you otherwise. Considering your choice of yarns I am thinking your in the U.S. so the yarn and hooks should be good. Hook Brands I’m using are Boyd and yarnspirations, I have a complete set of both.
Hi Tami! It does sound like you are just suffering from a gauge difference, maybe crocheting more tightly than I do. I think going up a hook size is a good idea, and make sure you are counting your rounds accurately – the first time I tried to duplicate this pattern (my own pattern!) I accidentally forgot that every round on the inside actually counted as two rounds: so when I counted the rounds, I came up with half the number I should have, since you can’t see the chain loop round from the inside – so one round on the inside actually equals two rounds. I ended up having half of the hat that I should have 😛 Lol. Not saying that is your problem, but it’s just something to be aware of!
I think you are on the right track with sizing up the hook a little, make sure to check gauge and then do give the hat a chance to stretch on the head – it should loosen up just a little bit after being worn, too 🙂 Let me know how it goes!
I purchased your Woodsmans Wife Ruana. And I can’t wait! But I have to make adjustments to your lovely pattern. I have limited movement in my dominant arm, and at best, my largest stitch is about 3/4 the size of stitch required to make it. I need to increase my stitch count. Would you be so kind as to share the pattern multiple?
Thank you for your time and your creations.
Brightest Blessings ~ KrisHarne79
Hi Kris! I’m not sure what you mean by pattern multiple, but I can give you the finished dimensions to work off of – the ruana starts on the longest side and works the piece sideways, so your beginning chain should be the measurement given for length:
Length: 79″
Width: 48″ (24″ each front two panels)
Hood: 26″ x 13.5″
If I can give you more info, let me know 🙂
Thanks
Hello really enjoying the mandala duster pattern. I am stuck on row 22. I am confused where it says 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp. The previous row 21 beginning of sleeve yoke round creates ch-1 spaces and 2 long chain loops that form the upper halves of the sleeve yoke. Twice in round 22 it says 3 dc in the
next ch-3 sp. Can’t figure out where I messed up. Please help
22. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in the next
dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in
ea of the next 2 dc) 9 times. 3 dc in the
next ch-3 sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in
ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the
next dc (1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in ea
of the next 2 dc) 9, 13 times**. 1 dc in the
next ch sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea
of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the next
dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in
ea of the next 2 dc) 63, 65 times. 3 dc in
the next ch-3 sp, join with a sl st to the
3
rd ch of beg ch-3. – 460, 488 sts
Hi Giovanna! This seems to be a mistake left over from the older version of the pattern – it should instruct to work into the Ch-1 spaces, not Ch-3 spaces. Thanks for catching that- I’ll get it fixed 🙂
Thanks for getting back to me so quick! I purchased the version 2 with photos on revelry so their may be something to fix there. After doing the math on the st count it seems like I’m on track just got confused by the directions but the count come out right. Thanks again.
No problem! I will make a note to get that pattern PDF updated as well 🙂 Thanks!
Hey, I’ve been wanting to make your Basic Bralette pattern but I don’t understand how to size it? I want to make it fit a 34 D? I’ve been struggling with understanding the way you explained how to do the math. What would the measurements for a 34 D be?
Hi Ella! To find your size, you will need to measure with a tape measure around your ribcage just below your bust, then divide that measurement by 4. Once you have that number, you will need to subtract an extra couple of inches, to make up for stretch and adding some more rows later on. Once you have subtracted by 2, this measurement is the number of inches each side of your bralette triangle cup should be 🙂
Oh, and that being said, if you are bigger busted you may want to subtract fewer inches or no inches at all, since you’ve got a bigger ratio of bust to ribcage to work with. All in all, you just want the triangle cups to cover your bust like a bikini would, however much coverage you like. So you can add or subtract rows based on what you think will work for you, it doesn’t have to conform exactly to the math given. 🙂
Do you have a pattern for the “Shaman coat with Fuller A-line silhouette” ( didn’t see a title for the coat)?
It is very beautiful and I would like to make myself one. I rarely make myself anything but this is a must have. Great job on the coat! It’s fabulous!
Carlye
Hi Carlye! Sorry, that design was experimental and so I didn’t write a pattern for it. I’m glad you liked it! The design that did end up being written from that idea was the Elf Coat, which is different but can be found for free on my blog at:
https://moralefiber.blog/2019/02/02/elf-coat-pattern/
Thanks!
I making the Lotus Duster 2.0 for my granddaughter and am stuck!
Between row 34 and 35 it says:
“Working the following rounds on the top half only:
35. Ch 3. (Dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 1, dc in the same sp) 171, 191 times. Ch 3, Sl st in the next ch-2 space. Ch 3, turn. – 171, 191 dc V-stitches”
So do I fasten off row 34 or do a turning chain to work row 35 in the top half only? Thanks for your prompt reply!
Hi Penny! You should finish row 34, then continue on in the same direction to work 35. Then at the end of 35, you’ll work a turning chain, turn, and work the next round back across the top half, which 35 was worked into 🙂
Hallo! A few days ago I found your free pattern for the elf coat. I am from Europa and I don`t understand a few of the US therms.
What is a 6,5 (K) hook? Is this a 6,5mm hook?
King Cole Riot DK is a 3# weight. What does that mean? Is this a yarn that is crochetead with a 3mm hook? In my country, we don`t have the signn 3#.
2″ – does this mean 2cm?
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable is a weight 4#. what does that mean? Do I crochet it with a 4mm hook?
Thank you very much for your answers.
Vojka
Hello Vojka! I’ll be happy to clarify if I can 🙂 A 6.5 hook is 6.5 mm hook, in the US we also give them letter designations such as “K”. King Cole Riot DK is #3, which is a weight category based on how many grams per yard or meter of the yarn. King Cole is 100g / 294 meters. 2″ means 2 inches (5.08 cm), the mark ” is short for inches. Red Heart Unforgettable is #4, which is another weight category for grams per yard or meter, this one is 100g / 246 m. 🙂 🙂 Thanks so much for visiting, I hope that helps!
Hello I am having trouble with the mandala tam pattern. I worked and the pattern all the way to the brim when I realized the stitch count was off trying to do the bpdc and fpdc. I frogged it and started fresh but I am still coming out with way too many loops after row 5 can you please help.
Hi Giovanna! How many loops are you coming out with after Round 5?
I am loving this pattern. I’m stuck on round 35, what do you mean by top half? Is it the section between the arm holes? Thanks
Antionette
Regina, I am doing the Lotus mandala dust er and am on the sleeves. Today s as the hood addition. I have already bought the 3 pattern bundle for the mandala vest, duster and the bridal poncho from the Idea shawl. Is there an update for the dust er with the hood or a separate pay for pattern? Thank you so much for the wonderful patterns.
Hi Antionette! The Hood pattern tutorial is included in the Duster pattern, as well as the bundle which includes the Duster – however, if you bought it from Etsy, Etsy does not automatically give previous purchasers access to newly uploaded files in a listing (as far as I know). If you did buy from Etsy, just e-mail me at moralefiber(at)yahoo.com and I will send you the new bonus Hood PDF! 🙂
Ok thanks regina. I am almost done with first one as soon as I finish it I’ll post pic. I did get the bundle from etsy’s.
Hi Regina,
I purchased your window box sweater pattern. I am wondering how to change it to an XS for my daughter. Her chest size is 33. Her back width is 15. I have already started the first portion. Would I keep the top the same and adjust stitches for the bottom portion of sweater? I am just worried about the width on her that it will be too big. She is so tiny…size 0. By the way I love the pattern, very creative. thanks for your help.
sally in Canada.
HI Sally! To modify this pattern for an XS, you will have to work 2 fewer rounds on the first portion of the sweater to make it less wide – this means the part where you are working just the square that becomes the collar and shoulder yoke, do not work the last two rounds for that piece – fold it over and work the arms as normal (your stitch counts for the arms will be slightly smaller) and then the bottom portion you can make as short or as long as you like. 🙂
I would so love to make your Lotus Mandala Duster, but really need a larger size. Have you worked out any increases for an XL as yet and, if so, please let me know where I can purchase it. Thanks much, Kathryn
Hi Kathryn! I don’t have plans to write this pattern for any more sizes as of yet . But the best way that you could size up this pattern is to work the extra rows given for the size Large, but work them even MORE. So here’s a quick guide for how that might be done.
Increasing up from a Large:
1. Extra Rounds 13.1 & 13.2 – Add extra rounds here in pattern, such that Rnds 13.3 & 13.4 have increases in the 26th st and 27th st repectively, adding as many rounds as you want as long as you stay in pattern with the increases
2. Extra Rounds 17. 1 & 20.1 – each of these rounds can be repeated as written, but only a limited amount of times before the circle stops laying flat because there are no increases in these rounds.
3.Extra Rnd 31.1 – can be repeated a few times
4. Sleeves Step 1 – can work 4 dc’s to each ch space in the sleeve instead of 3 (as for Large), keep number of dc’s in the chain stitches the same
5. Armhole Placement – You may want to adjust depending on your back measurement – measure between your shoulderblades for a tighter fit or from armpit to armpit for looser fit. This should match the measurement between the two sleeve yokes (armholes) on the piece – there are notes in the pattern for how to handle custom fit armholes.
6. It can also be helpful to add extra rounds to the part of the garment that is worked only on the top half (Rows 35 & 36) so that you are adding length to the top and sides only (to keep it from getting too long)
Thank you so much for the quick response and I will follow your suggestions. Can’t wait!
Hi Regina! I found your basic bralette pattern on Pinterest and i absolutely love it! I’m trying the pattern out for my sister before I try the curvey pattern for myself, but I’m having trouble with the pattern on round three.
{{Rnd 3: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 7 dc. In the next sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 33 dc}}
The directions on the parentheses are where I find my trouble. I can only count 6 stitches not 7.
I snap am unsure of the 2 dc in the church 2 space, the NEXT set of 2 dc I put in one of the chain stitches from the previous round of chain 2.
Am i reading it right or am i placing my d vs in the wrong stitch? Any help would be very much appreciated! 😍 This pattern is so very cute and I would very much like to make one for myself and my sister.
Hi Rachel! I’ll have to check over Rnd 3 to see where the problem is, but to put it simply there should be a 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in each chain space of the previous round, so as long as you get the 2 dc, ch-2, 2 dc in the chain spaces at the corners, all other dc stitches should have one dc in them 🙂 The chain spaces are treated as one stitch, working all stitches into the space (and not the individual chain stitch). Does that make sense?
Hello! I found your beautiful elf coat pattern on Pinterest and saw that there was a medium size on it, which is great! I was wondering what I would have to do in order to maybe make it into a large? Thank you!
Hi Ania- You can read through the size Small instructions for tips on how to modify to larger sizes, but I would suggest just waiting a little longer (or working on panels for the skirt portion, since those instructions are the same) because I am working hard on finishing the Large size instructions to be released on my blog! It shouldn’t be too much longer.
Awesome thank you! Is it at all possible for me to be emailed when the large pattern comes out? Thanks so much for replying! Love your work!
Yep, if you subscribe to my blog you will get e-mails when new posts come out! 🙂 Thank you so much and I’m so glad you like my designs!
Is there any possible way to maybe add pockets? I was wondering after reading through the instructions. Thanks!
Hi Ania, are you referring to the Elf Coat pattern? ( I think that’s the one I answered a question from you about before) If so, I plan to add a pocket design as part of the pattern at some point – I would recommend just crocheting a square and sewing it onto the garment as a pocket 🙂
Thank you!
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Hi. I’m trying to make your Elf Jacket. I’m working on the pointed wedges. I’m not sure how to form the points. It goes to row 80 with increases to 73 stitches. Then I’m to cut yarn and tie off. I having done this yet but I do not see how a point is formed if I’m still adding stitches. Thanks for the help. I love the pattern.
Hi Lois! The increases are both placed at the center of the wedge, which forces the fabric up and outward to form a point. Try it out, I promise it works 🙂
Thank you for your quick response. I have now finished my first pointed wedge strip and as you said it forms a perfect point. I have crocheted for over 40 years and have never seen a pattern that does. I’m impressed by your talent. Well done. And again thank you. Lois.
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I’m so glad to help! Thank you so much for visiting and sharing your feedback ❤❤
Hi, Regina!
I have a question about rounds 35-36 of the Lotus Duster 2.2 in size L/XL. The pattern say these rounds should be worked in the top half only. By top half only, do you mean these rows should be in the collar area over the armholes, or the area which falls by the legs? I’m finding it to be the latter, but I have a nagging suspicion I’m wrong. Can you clarify?
I love this pattern!
Thanks,
Mary
Hi Mary! The Top Half refers to the half above the armholes. It should turn out the right way if you follow the written pattern, but if there is some mistake there please let me know! 🙂 Thanks!
Hi, thank you so much for all your hard work! I’m trying the Lotus Duster pattern and I’m actually a Medium size. My bust would be 38.5 inches, so the small would be too small for me, but the large really way too large. Any ideas how I could get it to a medium size? Also, I noticed my gauge is tighter. I got 2.5 inches after round 3, rather than the 3 inches you got. Considering that, would you say I should just make the large size and my tighter gauge will make it small enough to fit my medium size?
Thank you so much, again!
Hi Elli! You could try to do the garment using the gauge you gave to make it smaller, but it can sometimes be hard to estimate how gauge changes will effect the final product overall when it comes to size and fit. I would recommend using the right gauge and working the pattern with only some of the extra rounds given for the large 🙂 that way it is a little bigger, but not the full large size
Thanks for your superfast reply! I’ve already gotten to round 10 before I noticed my gauge was off, cuz I forgot to check before LOL Can you tell me where I should be diameter wise at round 10 complete? I might loosen my gauge a little–changing my gauge has always been a challenge for me though haha.
Does it matter which extra rounds I throw in?
Thanks again!
By round ten you should have a diameter of roughly 12.5 inches, keeping in mind that your fresh stitching will be tighter so don’t be afraid to stretch it out a bit before measuring- it will when you wear it anyway. 🙂 as for extra rounds, I would work them at 13 and 30 for a medium – there are extra round instructions for each of those rounds 🙂
Oh wow… I’m only at 10.5 inches right now eeek.
Thanks for all your advice! Can’t wait to see it finished!
No problem, let me know if you have more questions! 🙂
Thank you so much. It’s turning out really beautifully. Since my gauge is still so tight, I decided to do more of the extra rounds. But just to be on the safe side, would you mind terribly, if I asked you to check diameter for me again? I’m finishing up on round 17.1 right now. Where would a large size be in diameter at that point (with 17.1 finished)? It is my hope that mine will be 2-3 inches shorter–that way I can keep my gauge the way it is. Thank you again for all your efforts!
Unfortunately I don’t have a large size of these on hand to check the diameter for you, sorry! I wish I could 🙂 I’m sure yours is fine, and you can always add more rounds after you finish if it’s still too short:)
No problem. Thank you 🙂
I do have another question… At round 27 and through rd 30, the pattern says in the beginning to sc into same sp. I’m doing that, I think (sc into the same space where I previously crocheted the dc into), but it’s creating a closure line. You can see where the round was joined. Am I doing something wrong?
There will be seam formed from this method of joining, or a place where it is possible to tell the joins – if you’d like to see the way this part of the pattern should look, follow the link for the Chain and Stitch Join tutorial at the beginning of the pattern in the notes 🙂
Thank you! I read through that but was still slightly confused. So, should rd 27 read like this then: .Sc in the space formed by the dc join of the previous rnd, ch 5 etc. ? Because right now all it says is sc in the same sp, ch 5. I think that’s where I got confused, so I always started the round in the same sc that I ended the round in… It’s the first time (starting at rd 27) that I began seeing a very visible seam. That didn’t happen in the rest of the open work.
Although, I was always a little unsure whether “space formed by the dc join” meant into the V of the dc stitch or going backward and under the dc (under the dc’s post). I always did the latter.
Crocheting under the post is the correct way, treating the dc the same as if it were a chain space (and crocheting into the space). So you’ve been doing it right 🙂 🙂 Rnd 27 uses the exact same strategy as the other rounds that are joined this way, so if there’s a discrepancy in the written directions I’ll get that fixed 🙂 This pattern has been through a lot of versions, it’s probably a leftover bit of writing from the earlier version 🙂 Sorry for the confusion!
I opened the last four rounds and redid it with that in mind. It looks much better now! Thanks for clearing that up! I think next time I’ll buy your pattern, so I have the extra photos, which will hopefully clarify a lot of those kinds of things without needing to ask 🙂 I know time is a precious commodity these days.
I do want to make your elf coat some time!
Thanks again, you’re very kind!
The pictures *are* super helpful but don’t hesitate to ask me directly if you have any more questions! 🙂 🙂 It’s what I do! 🙂
Hi again, I’m beginning on rd 34 now and read through rd 35. Just double checking: Having done the larger size, does it make no difference in the V-stitch count? I see there is no separate count for the large size.
Hi Elli! If there’s no alternate stitch count for the Large size, it should be the same as the stitch count given 🙂
I just finished round 35 and found there actually was an alternate stitch count after all. I must’ve been tired that day lol onward!
No worries! Happy to help 🙂
Is there an all crochet version of the Wayfarer Ruana?? Absolutely love this (along with all of your other work) and have a closet full of scrap yarn. Unfortunately I have not yet learned to knit. I did however learn to tunisian crochet, thanks to you. Just completed my second elf coat!!!! Thank you!!!!!
Hi Karen! That’s great to hear, thank You! As for your question, I answered it already on the comment you left on the original post – let me know if you have any more questions! 🙂