Pattern Help & Support

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Questions regarding my pay patterns (or any of my patterns really!) can be posted here in the comments.

As of right now I am online and available almost every day, and if I can’t answer your question immediately I will make it my top priority to do so. Thank you so much for supporting me by buying my patterns!

-MF

410 thoughts on “Pattern Help & Support

  1. I’m working on the plus size Mehndi halter. On row 2 of the trim I keep ending up with 2 extra dc at the end after the 18 chain loops. I’ve double-checked my stitch count according to what’s printed in the pattern for row 1 (48 dc), but the chart looks like it requires a multiple if 5 dc plus 1 (which would be 46 dc for 18 chain loops)? I think I must be misunderstanding something, but I’m not sure what.

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  2. Hi regina, I am working on your elf coat pattern and my hood isnt matching up to the body of the sweater. I made it in small size and the hood sides end just past the shoulder seams… should I try bumping up the good a size? Would that fix it? My counts are all correct.
    Thanks, christy

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    • Hi Christy! You could definitely add more rows to the hood in order to get it to reach further along the collar of your coat, but I’m curious as to why it’s not matching up – if you would be interested in sending me a picture via my FB business page, I’d love to take a look! If not, I can say that counting the number of rows to seam up the hood can be tricky, and it’s very easy to miscount the number of rows seamed (due to increases and stretch on the sides of the hood, etc) so that would be the first place I would look for what went awry. If you won’t want to add more rows to the hood, you could always unseam a few rows down on the back of the hood to allow it to reach further across the collar.

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      • Thank you for responding! Turns out I didnt seam my shoulders up far enough on the sleeves. I had four rows on each side that were taking up valuable hood stitches. It all worked out once I fixed that. Thank you!!

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  3. Hi! I’m working on the elf coat, and I’ve just finished putting everything together but the hood, and I found that the coat sits on me in a way that it won’t close regularly. Is there anything I can do to make it close like a regular, comfortable coat?

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    • Hi Ania – do you mean that the coat isn’t closing across the front? If so, you can add extra rows of the front border that is added on after you attach the hood to give the garment more coverage across the front. If you are having problems with the fit, I would double check your hood proportions as well before actually sewing it on πŸ™‚

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  4. Hallo
    I like this elf coat and would like to knit in size S (I cannot croching….
    ) Is there any possibility to get the knitting pattern? It would be gerat

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  5. Hello, I am making the Krampus hat and I was wondering if I could make the horns curve around the ears instead of pointing back and up. Thank you for your amazing patterns and your amazing work.

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    • Hi Kasey! I don’t have an exact idea on how to do this, but it’s definitely possible πŸ™‚ Part of what makes the horns curve is the placement of different heights of stitches on each round. So, after you have worked the first set of rounds that make the horns curve by alternating hdc, sc, and slip stitches, you may want to try working all the rounds in the same height of stitch. This will help straighten it out after you get the amount of curve you want.
      There are also a few other styles of crochet horns out there on the internet, you may want to try a search – the kind of horn you are looking for may already have a pattern written for it. πŸ™‚

      Good luck!

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  6. Hi! I just purchased the Valkyrie top and I see there is no size difference for small or medium. Was this an error in the pattern, or purposeful? The small sizing is a bit too small on me, and I’m wondering if you have any suggestions?

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    • Hi Amanda! The size difference between the small and the medium is evident in the cups, but not the length of the top itself. So the small works single crochet stitches across the cups, while the Medium works half double crochet across the cups, which results in more bust room on the Medium size. Since the top is adjustable through the way it is tied, I did not feel like the medium needed extra room length-wise. If you need more length but less bust, you can modify the Large size – I would be happy to tell you how, just let me know πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚ Thanks!

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  7. Hi! I’m making your Krampus hat, and I’ve made some substitutions. Firstly, I have some crochet hooks I inherited and didn’t have the budget to get all the hooks that you list. I made the main hat in a #4 worsted cotton, with a 5mm hook. It fits well, and I’m about to make the horns in acrylic, but I have a 3.5 hook. My questions are as follows:

    1) Do I cut and tie off the brim before I start working on the horns?

    2) Is there a gauge I should follow for the horns?

    I personally am going to make this hat once more when I get the right hooks. I really love this pattern. Thank you!

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    • Hi Doria! Great questions. You can cut and tie off the brim if you are ready to work the horns and ears, you are done with the hat portion at that point of the pattern. For the Horns, I don’t have a specific gauge written down for them, but since you are stuffing them and standing them up you want to work them as tight as you can πŸ™‚ I’ll make a note to get a gauge for this part of the project next time I work it!

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  8. Hi, Regina,
    I’m working on the Hedge Witch Hat (OMG, LOVE) and I’m a little stuck on the backward switchback join.
    I see in the pics that you have the hook going through the BLO of the first stich of that round but then the next pic is of it done. How, exactly, do I grab that loop? Do I take my hook out and come at it from behind?
    I’ve been doing what I think is the right thing and my hat seam is not as smooth and pretty as yours is in the photos of the hat pattern.
    Many thanks!
    H

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    • Hi Holly! Yes, you must remove your hook from the loop that is currently on it, and then insert the hook through the BLO of the next st (from the front of the work, to the back is how I normally do it). Then, you can catch the loop you dropped and pull it through that back loop πŸ™‚ It does take a few tries to get your tension to where it needs to be so that the seam looks smooth. Does that make more sense?

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  9. Gotcha. I was taking the hook out and going through the BLO from the back but I will try it again with these instructions instead. I need to make another one anyway as the first is always a bit wonky, like the first pancake, and make it a bit bigger in circumference as this one just sits on the top of my head and falls off. I find that funny because I think I have a wee little pea head….. Thanks!!

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  10. Hi there! I adore your Elf coat pattern, but unfortunately I live in a very warm climate and would have little use for a coat. I was wondering if it would be possible to alter it with a lighter weight yarn to make it a lighter, airy lace robe?

    I imagine using single crochet would work better than tunisian stitch for this, and probably wouldn’t want to go down more than one category, to sport weight. Sticking with the same hook size would hopefully keep the gauge the same or close, while also making the stitches looser to give it a more lacy look.

    All that said, I’m somewhat of a beginner and would very much appreciate your input on this! Especially about tunisian vs single crochet, as I’d love an excuse to learn tunisian.

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    • Hi Nicole! That’s a very interesting question, I’m glad you asked! If you did choose to make this in Tunisian crochet, I would say you might even be able to get away with a fine weight yarn if you watched your gauge closely, although it’s hard to say just by weight category. But you could definitely achieve a lighter piece by using a lighter yarn, using the same hook or maybe even a larger one. Tunisian crochet itself is pretty thick by nature, unless you are using a lace stitch, which this coat does not. Though again, if you used a lighter weight yarn and kept a loose gauge you could probably achieve what you want to accomplish in Tunisian.

      If I were you, I would try to do a gauge swatch in Tunisian for this coat, using a sport weight yarn (cotton is probably your friend for this) and then, try out a fine weight yarn too, for comparison. Single crochet would also work well and I’ve seen a lot of people converting this pattern to single crochet and the results look great – so really you have a lot of choices! I think trying out a couple different ways of working it before you actually start is going to give you a better idea of what you are signing up for. I’m not much for pre-planning when I start a project (believe it or not lol) but in this case I think you won’t regret testing a few options before you jump in πŸ™‚ And of course if you come up with more questions you know where to find me!

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  11. Hi there! I’m working on your Elf Coat, and I just had a question. I wanted to make this for a few of my friends as well, but I will need to make a couple that are one or two sizes larger than the large. What tips do you have for adjusting the sizes of this coat? I’m not quite sure how I would go about this.
    Thanks!
    Kyrstie

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    • Hi Kyrstie! All the current written sizes are based off of the math formed by the number of panels in the skirt. A Small has 9, a Medium has 11, a Large has 13 – so to start, an XL would need 15 wedges. For the waistband, each wedge has 14 stitches worked into the top once they are all sewn together – so the waistband for an XL would have 210 stitches. From there, you can follow the math described above each piece for the front and back panels (see the original SMALL size pattern on the blog – each section has a brief description of how the math is begun for that portion). If you need additional help, the PDF pattern file has all sizes written as one pattern, so the changes are given for each different size and it can be easier to see that way how one might modify it to get bigger by following the sequence of pattern changes and extrapolating the math to figure out what an XL or larger might be.

      It’s not the easiest pattern to convert, but it can be done πŸ™‚ That being said, I do plan on releasing some more sizes for this garment at some point, so depending on how quickly you make the projects for your friends, you may have that resource available πŸ™‚ However, I can’t guarantee when that might be

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  12. I am so excited to make this coat!! It’s all I can do to finish my current project and get started. I am thinking of doing 2 different β€˜unforgettable’ colors for the skirt portion and I’m wondering if you remember approximately how many skeins it took to do just the wedges for the skirt? I’m not sure the ratio of colors I should buy. 1skein per wedge or? I’m going to make the large one. I’m just so excited about this I can’t even tell you. I thought about designing something similar but you took all the work out of it for me and that’s awesome!! Thank you so much!!

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    • Yay! I’m so glad you like the design – I can’t wait to see your version πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚ For the panels of the skirt, I think I got about 1 Pointed Wedge and 1 Simple Wedge at least from one skein of yarn, with some left over. It’s possible one skein could cover 2 full Pointed Wedges, but I can’t recall for sure – either way you get close to two wedges from one skein of Unforgettable ❀

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  13. Hi Regina, I am working on your Elf Coat pattern (which I love, and it is so well-written). I have finished the wedges but am worried about sewing them together as the simple wedge edge is longer than the side-point level of the pointed wedge. Should I stretch the side edge of the pointed wedge to meet the other edge? And if so would this not make a ‘cobbled’ effect? If it does, it would probably be down to my bad sewing abilities. Thanks.

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    • Hi Eileen! If your wedges have the correct number of rows, they will fit together fine when you sew them as long as you are matching stitch for stitch when making your seam – so yes, it’s okay to give the shorter once a little stretch to match πŸ™‚ Mine always look like they aren’t the same size too, but once they are sewn they seem to settle in fine! I hope thats helpful πŸ™‚

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      • Hi Regina, You are right (oh me of little faith!) it works perfectly. I assumed that, as both pieces have 80 rows, that the pointed side would be shorter than the straight one. Apologies. Also, I have used dc crochet to join the seams (instead of sewing) and it actually looks really good so far. Thanks again for this fabulous pattern.

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  14. Hi there – I am in love with your elf coat and am about to embark on ordering the materials to start this amazing project. However, I am new to Tunisian crochet and am unsure of the right Tunisian hook to get, I know it is 6.5mm but what length should I get. I am a little unclear about what an interchangeable one is, Thank you, so looking forward to this challenge. Karen

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    • Hi Karen! The 6.5mm Tunisian hook I use is about 12″ long, solid metal, and not interchangeable. Interchangable hooks mean you can switch out the size of hook and / or cord so that you have more versatility, however, they are more for convenience and not necessary for this project πŸ™‚ A 12″ hook will work fine, but I recommend a hook with a longer, flexible cord at the end because it’s just easier to handle. πŸ™‚

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      • Thank you so much for your reply. That helps, I thought the interchangeable meant that, so confirms I was right. Wool has been ordered, so the hook next and I can embark on this wonderful project. Thanks for sharing your wonderful work with us all. I have now found your Facebook page. Happy crocheting.

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    • Hi Sarah! It depends a little on which design you are talking about, because I do sometimes work on commission for custom orders, but usually I am too busy designing and writing patterns πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚ There are a lot of sellers that make things from my designs though, if you are familiar with social media you may be able to find someone willing to take on a custom order by searching the hashtag #moralefiber or @moralefiber ! Hope that helps.

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  15. Hi Regina,
    I’m working on your Spiral Sweater. Thanks for such a nice pattern. I’m curious, for the ldc stitch, do you continue to place the stitch on the back loop or through both loops?

    Thanks,
    Teresa

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    • Hi Teresa, great question! In the original pieces, I worked the LDC into the back loop only as with the other stitches. But since LDC stitches are there to make the stress point sturdier, you could also choose to work through both loops to add even more reinforcement πŸ™‚

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  16. Hello, I bought your window box sweater pattern and I’m having trouble getting started. The stitch count does not come out as the pattern says it should and the corners are not lining up. Can you help?
    Thanks, Marilyn
    e-mail: image4her@comcast.net

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  17. Hey there!
    I have made all of the panels for the skirt part of my elf coat and just sewed the first ones together. I am using the same brand of yarn that you used to make your size small elf coat, king cole riot, and I was wondering if you stitched together your coat with the same yarn?
    When I was using it for sewing it was starting to get frayed and this yarn pulls apart super easily so I was getting worried that it might not be the best for holding everything together!?
    Contemplating using embroidery floss and a strand of the yarn… or getting a different yarn that stronger and close in color? What are your thoughts on this?

    Thank you! ❀

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    • Hi Jessica! Apologies for the tardiness of my reply, I missed this message somehow! πŸ™‚ I used the same yarn, King Cole Riot, to sew together the panels but I did encounter some fraying and loosening. The main thing about the yarn is that it is one-ply, so the natural twisting of the stitches tends to untwist the yarn and loosen the fibers making it more breakable – I just stopped very few minutes and let my yarn dangle, allowing the yarn on the needle to re-twist itself (making it strong again) and continued. It still could probably be sturdier but I preferred this to potentially creating a contrasting or more noticeable seam. I hope that helps and let me know if you have any other questions! πŸ™‚

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  18. Hi! I’ve been working on the Lotus Mandala Duster 2.0 for the longest and I’ve already had to undo half of it because the sizing was coming out wrong. Before i started the sleeves I tried it on, the arm holes were too close together (which is definitely my fault lol) but at that point the rest of the piece was more like a cape than a flowing garment as pictured. I’m using the same exact yarn as was used for the Large (cotton fair) but it’s coming out smaller than it should. I think it may be from round 9 with the tr3tog? when i compare my piece to the photos the space made by the treble stitches looks a lot smaller on mine. I love this pattern and really want to finish it, and i bought the exact yarn mentioned to avoid a problem with gauge for this reason 😦 please let me know if you have any idea what I might be missing

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    • Hi Laura! Gauge can be a tricky thing – even with the exact yarn and hook specified, each crocheter has a unique tension and style which can change the gauge or drape of the garment – What measurement do you have for the diameter of the circle afterRound 3, Round 9, and after Round 16? Also, I’m not sure what you mean by “more like a cape” but if you would like to send me pictures of the problem areas you are encountering on your garment, that could also help us figure it out πŸ™‚ Pics can be sent to my FB business page by message:
      http://www.facebook.com/Moralefiber

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  19. What a wonderful pattern the elf coat. However I am making in single crochet instead of tunis crochet. Everything worked out except the hood. Somehow I am loosing stitches in the beginning. Can you explain to me how to read the part for the hood in single crochet. The backpart of the coat is not fitting my back (oke I know I am broadshoulderd hahahaha). This resulted in the front not closing. But I think this will be resolved when I put on the boarder on the front.
    For now I am really struggeling with the hood (row count).

    Thanks in advance for your answer.

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    • Hi Yvette and thanks for commenting – To be honest, I am not at all sure why you should be losing single crochet stitches on the hood when you had not had the problem anywhere else – as far as I know, it should translate the same way. I haven’t tried it unfortunately so I don’t have the answer. If you do figure it out I’d be interested so I know if anyone asks in the future! πŸ™‚

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      • in round 1 it says 3 stitches, round 2 it says 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc. so that means 6 stitches instead of 5. Does that make sense? I have been struggling for 2 days on it already.

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      • Oh, I see! The first stitch in every Tunisian row is already on the hook, so there is no instructions in the pattern to make the first stitch – because there is already one loop remaining on the hook (which counts as the first loop picked up) in every row.

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      • The Elf coat is almost finished. However when I try it on, it is pulling from the back and underneath the arms. I might have crocheted this to tight. Can I do something about this or do I have to frog the back piece? If so I have to take apart the whole coat. Will this change when I wash it? I am making this one in small (my normal size)

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      • Hi Yvette! I think you can probably adjust a little bit at the shoulders to help ease the fit of the back and underarms – if you can, you might add a few rows to each side of the top of the front panel, getting another .5 – 1″ at the top – see if that will help ease the underarms and back. This will mean adjusting the arm seam a little bit too, but I think it would be worth it rather than deconstructing and frogging the whole bodice!

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      • I applied just that and are adding more rows to the front border. When the coat is finished I will wash it gently. We will see how this work out. I will post a picture on the fb site een mooi gebaar. Thanks for your swift reply.

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  20. Hello,
    I have just bought your beautiful elf coat pattern (tunisian knit stitch)
    Reading the instructions you suggest that it can be done in traditional knitting stocking stitch. As this is my preferred method, are you able to help with the conversion?
    You have suggested that 1x tks=1x knit stitch, what size knitting needles do you recommend?

    I am using the Riot double knit yarn as suggested, but this knits up very thin on a 6mm knitting needle (having swapped out from the 6mm crochet needle?)
    I have tried knitting it on 4mm needles, to get the closer textured stitch, but this throws out the stitch count.

    I have tried to recalculate the required stitches per row, but I am very concerned that the above issues will throw the pattern shaping out.

    Did you write this pattern for conversion to knitting also?

    Sorry to waffle on, I am a knitter and new to crochet. This is such a beautiful pattern and I really want to get this right.
    Looking forward to hearing from you.

    Kind regards,
    Suzi Morris

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    • Hi Suzi! These are great questions, no need to apologize, lol! I only wish I could answer them more completely – for my suggestion, I only knew that this piece could be duplicated in knit, but not what size needles might be needed to obtain the gauge. The 6.50 for the Tunisian Crochet will definitely as you said, knit the fabric thin because Tunisian is characteristically tight even on oversize needles.

      You’ll have to experiment more most likely, because I don’t know any conversions for the pattern other than just substituting knit stitches for crochet at 1 : 1 (I haven’t done it in Knit myself, though I can knit a little I prefer crochet). I would say that even if the garment knits up thin at the correct gauge, use whatever gets you the gauge, and then you at least won’t have to tackle this project having never worked it before AND making mathematical alterations AND technique alterations (a.k.a nightmare).

      The good news is that I do know a talented lady who does these coats in knit exclusively, who is active in my Facebook crochet group – she or someone else might have some more specific advice based in experience from knitting these you could get some good tips there if you wanted to ask:
      https://www.facebook.com/groups/361168981208777/

      Her knit coats are really really pretty (they come out thinner – but it looks great). Hopefully that has helped! I wish I could be more specific in my advice πŸ™‚ And if you have more questions I am happy to help!

      Thanks,
      Regina

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  21. Hello there. I hope you are keeping safe and well. I’ve just bought your Shaman Coat pattern and have admired your Elf Coat for a long time. A couple of questions, really. I am confident about working ‘normal’ Tunisian crochet but have never worked with knit or purl stitches. Would it be feasible to complete the Elf Coat with basic stitch? Also, in your blog you have a fantastic adaptation of the Shaman coat and you have mentioned recording details of the adjustments you made. I wondered if you had had time to do this yet and, if so, where I can access them. Please accept my apologies if you have already answered these questions in an earlier post. Many thanks, Katie.

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    • Hi Katie! I’m doing healthy and well, thank you for asking! I hope the same for you πŸ™‚ The answer is that the Elf Coat can definitely be done in regular Tunisian Simple Stitch (the basic Tunisian stitch) instead of Tunisian Knit Stitch, the stitches are substitutable on a 1:1 ratio as long as your gauge matches, so you can just change the stitch style and not have to worry about changing stitch counts or messing with the pattern otherwise πŸ™‚ I’ve seen a few examples of this done in TSS and it looks great!

      For the Shaman Coat adaptation, I still haven’t made it that far but it’s being bumped gradually to the top of the list – right now the materials are picked out and I am planning how I will go about recording & releasing the adaptation. It might even appear on video! πŸ˜‰

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      • Thank you so much! I’ll look forward to that and will let you know how I get on with the Elf coat once my new hook arrives 😊

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    • Hello Katie, I am also new to Tunisian knit stitch, having never crocheted until 2 weeks ago. The TKS is easy once you get the hang of it, I learned it on a Sunday using the links Regina quotes in the Elf coat pattern. I just practiced for a couple hours with scrap wool until I was comfortable, if you are crocheting tunisian standard stitch already you’ll likely get it quicker than I did πŸ™‚ it looks great, like traditional knitting stocking stitch but gives a slightly thicker fabric so it hangs nicely.
      It’s well worth a try 😊

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  22. I’m working on the Elf Coat. I’m on the front panels. When I finish the right front with the decrease on each end it looks more like the back panel. The photos show a lg Dec on one side and sm one the other. My pattern starts the Dec on row 27 but it’s on both ends. I’m not sure about the return pass. Can you advise me on what I’m doing wrong?

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      • Great! Thanks for clarifying, I wanted to make sure I was looking at the exact same pattern you were, in case of typos. I checked on the area you were referring to and for the Front Panels for the Medium garment, you should start the rows with ONE decrease at one end at Row 27 (as you said you’ve done). You’ll work one decrease at the same end for each row up until Row 46 for the Medium, at which point you start placing a decrease at both ends as written. When you say that you have a piece that looks more like the back piece, I am wondering did you start decreasing at both ends too early?

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      • Okay I have it. The RP had me confused. I’ll follow what you sent and hopefully do it right!! Thank you for your help.

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  23. Hi!

    I’m working on the Elf Coat pattern, and I’m loving it so far! I’ve finished with a simple wedge section, and I stopped to check the final gauge. It measures 16″ which I think is the gauge math, but I noticed the picture on the pattern says it should measure 17.5″. Is that including any stretch that happens later or do I need to be adding more rows? It threw me off a little, and I’ll be honest and say that math is NOT my strong suit. LOL

    Any help would be appreciated!

    Thanks so much!
    Michaelene

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    • Hi there! Happy to hear you are loving the pattern! πŸ™‚ I would say that it depends a little, but you are probably just fine at 16″ or so inches. The measurements given in all the pattern pictures are approximate, and often are taken after the piece has been worked with a lot and stretched.

      If you can successfully stretch your piece to somewhere around 17″ you should be good. With garments, gauge can often be tricky and there might be some slight variations in the measurements you’re getting, but as long as everything looks good and no obvious weirdnesses going on you should be ok πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚ If that portion of the pattern comes up fitting short or small in any way, there is always the option to add length at the bottom border and/or width at the front panel border, which can be added after most of the rest of the garment is complete πŸ˜‰

      If you can’t stretch your piece at all or it doesn’t come close to the 17″ – 17.5″, you can add more rows but I’d say it’d be easier to add more border and/or waistband rows than wedge rows πŸ™‚

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      • Thanks for the help! The length worked out perfectly after I added the border.

        I’m working the half hood now in sc, and I ran into a bump. Is the hood supposed to be 17″ on each side after you fold it (like the regular hood is)? And do you happen to know the approx length from the hood point to the last increase row? I’ve finished my increase rows, but it’s looking too short all around. I’m not sure what I did! Lol.

        Thank you!

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      • Yes, it should be 17 inches folded over like the original hood, just a bit shorter in length from the tip – unfortunately I don’t have my original piece to this anymore, so I’m not sure of the total length. I do know that the half hood tends to come out tighter fitting than the original, I’ve seen a couple people need to add more rows or increases at the end because slight differences in yarn or gauge will cause it to be just a WEE bit too tight. So it may not be anything you did wrong, just a little gauge difference.

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  24. Hi there, I am making the large Elf Coat. I am almost certain I did the Gauge at the start to check, however having completed the skirt, back and front panels and waistband, I sewed together as per pattern. The completed coat did not sit right and was far too small. I think I am working “too tight”, I therefore undid the side seams and redid the back, much looser. It has improved it, but the front is now far too small. I am thinking before doing the front border, I might add an extra front panel, extra piece on waistband and extra wedge on skirt on both sides before doing front border (If this makes sense). I wondered what you thought. An alternative was to undo the front panels (as I did for the back) and redo looser. Sorry for the lengthy post. Am loving the look though, I will get there!

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    • Hi Karen! Gauge can be really tricky sometimes, and even often changes as you work. Expert knitters and crocheters recommend re-checking gauge every time you sit down to work on a garment as it can change a lot, especially from when you are first learning a stitch to when you are more familiar with it.

      I almost never do the gauge-check except for in the beginning of a garment, though, lol! So my advice would be to add extra width on the front border, for sure. If you do decide to add extra panels on the bottom, you might consider just making the next size up. Since the next size up would automatically be written for an extra 2 panels on the bottom πŸ™‚ It would mean you would have to do some things over again, but honestly that’s about what you’ll end up doing anyway, and at least starting over on the sizes will give you a definite set of instructions to work from, rather than trying to guess.

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    • To clarify, doing the next size up would mean :
      1. Keeping all completed wedges, just making 2 more.
      2. Reworking the waistband across all wedges. (You could potentially add a partial waistband across the tops of the new wedges, then seam – I would do this instead of reworking the entire waistband.)
      3. Reworking or modifying both front panels (you are going to have to do this in some way no matter what. I recommend simply doing them over in the correct size)
      4. Reworking the back in the correct size.

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      • Hi, thank you for your quick response. I am already doing the “Large” with extra 2 wedges. However, I will and an additional 2 extra wedges on top of existing ones, extend the waistband and add to the front panel. I will see how it looks. Thank you for your guidance. I am not going to let this beat me, lol. Thank you.

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      • Oh great! So for you, there isn’t a next size up actually written yet. If you’d like to do any of the modifications suggested for the next size up, I think the pattern notes include the math you’ll need – if you need specific help on the math let me know! I think any way you choose to do it, it’ll be a totally awesome piece that you get to tell people you made yourself πŸ™‚

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      • Thank you, especially for your confidence in me!! I was new to Tunisian crochet, so as you say your work improves/and tension changes as you go along and become familiar with the stitch. I will let you know how I get on, am busy now with the next stage. Awesome design.

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  25. Greetings. I purchased the Mandala top and add one and am currently working on the large top. On row 12, I get an extra 2dc, ch8 on each side of the top, leaving me with 99 ch spaces instead of 97. I’ve double checked my count, and even frogged the row and did it over because I was sure I had made a mistake and simply couldn’t find it. Please help. I’d love to continue with the add-ons, but I am hesitant to do so with inaccurate such counts. Thank you for the amazing patterns d

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    • Hi Kerry! Sorry to hear you are having issue. Let’s take a look:

      Rnd 12: With RS facing, join new yarn in the 3rd ch-8 space from the last ch-5 in the fagoting join on the back half of the top. Ch 3 to count as first dc. Dc in the same space, ch 8. [ONE SPACE] *2 dc in the next ch-8 space, ch 4. [TWO spaces] Yarn over and draw up a lp through the next ch-8 space, yo and draw through 2 lps on the hook. Yarn over and draw up a loop through the next ch-8 space (skipping ch-5 of fagoting join and the ch space it is attached to). Yarn over and draw through 2 lps on the hook. Yarn over and draw through the last 3 lps on the hook. Ch 4. [THREE spaces] (2 dc in the next ch space, ch 8) 46 times.* [49 total spaces for the first portion and the repeat within the asterisks] Rpt from * to *. [48 spaces total for the second repeat of the asterisk instructions. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. Cut yarn and tie off. – 97 ch spaces total.
      [49+48 = 97 spaces]. The math seems correct and there doesn’t seem to be anything weird going on as far as I can tell from just reading the instructions. Are you maybe getting caught at the decrease portion at the sides? That area is tricky. “Yarn over and draw up a lp through the next ch-8 space, yo and draw through 2 lps on the hook. Yarn over and draw up a loop through the next ch-8 space (skipping ch-5 of fagoting join and the ch space it is attached to). Yarn over and draw through 2 lps on the hook. Yarn over and draw through the last 3 lps on the hook. Ch 4. ” I recommend reviewing that area for trouble first, as it would easily explain the extra two spaces if you were adding extra chains there somehow.

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  26. Greetings keep up the good work! I am attempting to up size the Embla Vest. I need another 10 inches from your written size. I have gone up to a size H hook and am expecting add one repeat or stitches to make next multiple. Am I on the right track or should I appoach this differently?

    Thanks
    Tam

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    • Hi Tamara! That’s a great question – sizing up your hook is a good bet, and you’ll need to add both extra rounds before the armholes and extra rounds after. The simplest way to size up my patterns (for the most part) is to look at the size differentials in the places where the pattern gives multiple size options.

      So for instance (and these numbers are imaginary, not for the Embla specifically) , if a pattern has Mediums make two more rounds MORE than the Smalls before hitting the armhole round, than Larges should also make two more than mediums, and XL’s two more than larges, and so if you wanted to make an XXL, you could potentially make two more rounds than the XL and get where you need to be. The same goes for numbers of stitches in certain portions of the pattern – if the sequence for small, medium, large, xl goes 2, 4, 6, 8, then you can assume that the count for XXL would be 10 πŸ™‚

      I hope that makes sense and gives you a bit more direction in sizing up the Embla – and if you run into a specific point and need more help be sure to let me know πŸ™‚

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  27. I want to make the long elf coat. I am just afraid it might be too small. If I go up a size or two hook wise do you,thing it will be ok

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    • Hi Sue! There are sizes Small, Medium, and Large patterns available, if you need to go a size larger than large, you may be able to do that by going up in hook size πŸ™‚ Check your gauge against the gauge given in the pattern to see what the ratio will be – this will help you get a better idea of how much bigger the project will turn out overall with the new hook size.

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  28. Does your Embla Vest scale up in size in any easy way that I could figure out? I love the look of it, but wear a 5X in standard crochet sizing.

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    • Hi Shannon! That’s a great question πŸ™‚ The Embla Vest uses pretty uniform size changes in the pattern , so a moderately experienced crocheter can use those changes to size up by adding more intervals. I took a look into the pattern and each size change is dictated by a standard interval (So each size has two more rounds on the main body than the size before it, each size has X more stitches in this section than the size before) etc. So L-XL changes, for example, may do (58, 64) sts in a section, so a 2 XL would do 70, 3X would do 76, etc.

      I try to guide my sizing by the Craft Yarn Council standards, as well. Hopefully that’s plenty of information to be helpful! If you’re still not sure about sizing this pattern up, I would be happy to e-mail you a free sample of this pattern if you contact me directly at moralefiber(at)yahoo.com πŸ™‚

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      • Wow! I am trying to do the same thing! Make that vest in about the same size. Regina designs would work well on bigger bodies, so I once again committed to getting my vest to fit!
        Thanks for reminding me of my goal!
        Tam

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  29. I’m working on the Desert Sunset Duster and I’m on row 90-109 which is the beginning of the front left, now after I finish this it has this;
    (Add 0 (0, 1, 2, 3, 5) rows to increase for armhole width When
    you add for width, you will need to continue rows out of order
    as listed here after adding the extra number of regular rows:
    111, 110, 113, 112, 115, 114, 115 (finish off instead of turn)
    Then it has Row 110;
    Row 110 – ch 1, sc in 1st sc [ch 10, sc in next sc] 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, ch 11, sc in last sc, turn
    I don’t know if I should jus ignore the whole adding row thing cuz I’m making a size small so the number says to add 0 so I jus go straight to doing row 110 right?

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  30. Hello, I’m currently hoping to make myself one of you Hooded Lotus Mandala Dusters from you Blog. I have 2 questions
    One if I were to use a #3 light weighted yarn instead of a #2 fine weighted yarn, should I use a 5.5mm hook still or go up in size for my hook.
    Two I’d like to keep the sleeves of the original duster but also have the hood. Could I still do that with the hooded pattern?

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  31. Hiya I’m working on the cobweb and my waist is double the size of my waist πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚ is it meant to be more fitted? Yours doesn’t look gathered around the waist? Honestly, I could fit two of me in their and I only did a 240 chain, I’m on round nine and I am too scared to carry on now xxx

    Like

    • Hi Jessica! Actually, this garment is not fitted, it’s a one-size-fits most with a large central opening – the original that I made for the pattern has the finished measurements listed as : ~60” Top Opening, Up to ~32” (Long)
      So it should be quite large, not to fear! πŸ™‚ It is designed to be gathered at the waist with the drawstring, so that it can convert to a large fairy shawl by wearing over the shoulders. Since a garment fitted to my waist size would not be comfortable to wear as a shoulder opening – and I figured that would be the case for many others – I settled for creating something with a very large opening that could be adjusted with a simple string. But there is some notes at the beginning of the pattern for how to figure a size that is more fitted if you don’t want such a large piece! πŸ™‚ Thanks and let me know if you have any other questions ❀

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  32. I love your work and think you are a very talented artist. I always look forward to your posts. I was just browsing today and ran across a website that made me think of you and your style. It is a clothing and an etc. site. No crochet so no competition for you just unusual items. Dolaluna.com. If you don’t like it, I’m sorry I wasted your time. Stay safe!

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    • Hi Autumn! The mathematical formulas for how I figured out the basic sizes for the Small, Medium, and Large Elf coats are in the notes to the pattern (before most of the sections there’s a little paragraph describing how i figured the sizes) but currently there is not a comprehensive guide to sizing up. I hope to have more written larger sizes available for that design soon! Thanks for visiting πŸ™‚

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  33. Hello!
    Absolutely LOVE your designs. They’re so beautiful…
    Do you have a pattern available for your floral crown shown with the pixie belt?
    I hope so!!!!
    Thanks in advance,
    Kathryn

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  34. First off I absolutely LOVE your elf coat and the details of your pattern (I’m making the large). Here’s my dilemma. I checked my guage…Perfect! Got started on the simple wedge. After a few rows I checked my measurement (3.5 inches)…Perfect! I am now at the end of the pattern. Checked my measurement…Half an inch short (5 inches instead of 5.5). I did all the increases where it was called for. Do you have any suggestions?

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    • Hi Liann! Have you tried to block your piece at all? Most of my pieces were given a very good stretch before measuring the height, so if you’re only a little bit shy of the measurement and haven’t blocked yet, I would bet you could get that last half an inch by pinning it down with a firm vertical stretch and letting it rest on the blocking mat for minute πŸ™‚ Otherwise, If your gauge is perfect and you’ve already blocked, I’d say you can probably keep going with your gauge just the tiniest bit short and make up for any overall height adjustments by adding rows at the waist or borders of the coat πŸ™‚ Hopefully that makes sense and if you need further assistance just let me know πŸ™‚

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  35. Hi Regina,
    Firstly, let me say that I absolutely love your designs and I’m sure that you’ve been asked this before, but I’m curious as to your opinion on substituting cotton in some of your pieces, particularly the Mandala top and extensions. I live in Australia and sometimes a worsted weight wool can be a bit too heavy but I have some beautiful, heavier recycled cotton that I believe could work. I just wanted to see what your thoughts were before I attempt this.

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    • Hi Misty! I do love cotton yarn for these tops, my favorite #4 weight cotton yarn is Hobby Lobby I Love This Cotton! which I am not sure whether it is available in Australia but I’ve seen it around online. Cotton blends are another good option, if you used a double strand of Premier Cotton Fair it would also make a good substitute and probably my favorite option of the two. I hope that helps! πŸ™‚

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    • Not sure what weight the recycled cotton you’ve got is, but I’ve seen the Mandala Tops made with lighter stranded cotton yarns too and they looked good, a lot lacier and definitely lighter hanging but also very nice!

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