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Hello there, I have just started another Elf Coat (I’ve made 2 already), I love this pattern. I am having trouble getting the right guage though. Width-wise it’s all ok, but length-wise I’m way out. ie the length of the simple wedge is coming out nearer 25 inches instead of 17.5 inches. And this does seem to affect only the wedges – the bodice, sleeves etc are fine. I would like to shorten the “skirt” part however, so would it be ok to reduce a few rows per wedge without spoiling the general shape of the flare? I was ok with the previous 2 coats being longer, but I would like this one to be shorter/closer to the pattern measurements. (I’m assuming this is my tension at fault, the yarn is King Cole Pricewise acrylic double knitting, 320 yards per 100 gr.). Thank you.
Hi Eileen! That’s a great question – short answer is yes, you should be able to reduce the wedge length by 2-4″ by taking out 8 – 16 of the non-increase rows that are worked in the first parts of the wedges. I advise taking the length from the top, as if you reduce the length lower down you may alter the flare shape a little too much – but I’m not positive as I haven’t tried it yet! 🙂 The gauge can be especially tricky on the wedges because they have shorter widths at the top, and TKS tends to “shrink” widthwise and lengthen sometimes due to the structure of the stitches, the thinner the piece the more dramatic the shrink will be – so that’s my guess as to why your wedges are too long but the bodice is fine! 🙂 I’m so glad you like the pattern and please do let me know if you have any other questions!
Thanks so much for that – it is a relief to know that the fault is only 85% mine 😁. I can now see how to reduce the length a bit. I do love all your patterns – they are so well written, and knowing that you are on hand for queries such as this is a huge plus. They also fill a gap in the market. Shops (in the UK) only seem to sell patterns for the “old” standards, ergo, if you have an ancient pattern book (of which I have several) you already have everything you need in that line!
So. thank you again and do – please – keep up the fabulous work 🤗
Aww thank you Eileen! I am so happy to hear that you like my work, I will definitely be producing more as long as my hands hold up! 😀 Have an awesome day!
Hello! I am wondering if you have other yarn suggestions for mega tail since it seems like some of the yarn used is no longer available. Also, would you ever make the mega tail for crochet? <3
Thank you for creating these amazing treasures and I look forward to trying my hand at some.
Hi Brianna and thanks so much for visiting! I do have another yarn suggestion for that project, which I ordered a while back (intending to make more tails) and it looks like it will be a good substitute: Ice Yarns Techno, which can be found here:
They are a company out of Turkey, however, so depending on where you live the shipping can be a little pricey, but I do buy from them frequently and recommend the company’s quality and service. I’m not aware of any hobby store brands like this that are currently available unfortunately.
I have done a tail in fur yarn before using crochet stitches, and it works pretty well! I did not write a pattern for it though because I found knitting was a better medium, since crochet stitches use more yarn and they tend to trap the faux fur inside of the stitches more than knit stitches do – but it’s still definitely doable in crochet if you wanted to try! 🙂 I hope that helps <3 <3
So I bought a TON of your patterns and I absolutely love them. My question is, how do I adjust for length on the halter tops. Like, for example, I want to gift someone a valkyrie top but they aren’t as slender as the model in the picture. How would you adjust the pattern for that?
Initially, I thought to just make it the desired length with the original change and just go from there. The issue I ran into was…where there is since there are shifts in switching up stitches in some places. Please advise, oh guru of crochet wisdom
Hi there and thank you so much for visiting and for supporting my shop!! The Valkyrie top comes in sizes Small – Large, with the largest size having a band length of 26″. The general format of the top works by separating the total band length into 3rds, so that the cup increases are made at two points equidistant from each other and from the sides. To lengthen the band, you’ll need to first test your gauge. The gauge for this pattern is 4 sts = 1″, so however many inches you need to add, you’ll have to multiply that times 4 and then add that many stitches to the initial foundation chain. Then, divide the total number by three and use stitch markers to mark off the two points that lie in the middle of the three sections. These two points will be where you place all the increases for the cup.
There are more complications than that for this design, since the cups also change stitch height around those central increases and also skip stitches toward the end of the rows, but that should get you started 🙂 Hopefully the pictures make it much easier to see where your stitch height changes should be!
I’m marjolein and live in the netherlands.
I love crochet and you patterns, specially the elven coat and that is what my message is about
I was shopping online and came a cross one of you pictures on an clothing site. The sell the end product of your design. I took a screenshot i cant sent with this message. You can email me if you want to know more. I just wanted to let you know
Thank you so much for reporting it, it is image theft and unfortunately has been going on for some time now and there’s not much I can do about it. I appreciate you reaching out 🙂 <3 Much love!
I am a german girl, is it possible, to get the pattern in german language ? ( paid of course )
Because my english ist not very good…..:)
greetings from Connyfee
Hi Conny! I currently have only one pattern available in German translation, and that can be found for purchase in my Etsy Shop here:
Thank you so much for your interest in my designs! 🙂
hi. I am making the lotus vest in both sizes but noticed that the alternative round 17 has a smaller space between the armholes than the small size? why is this?
Hi Erika! I took a look at the spot you’re referring to and it appears to just be a mistake. It looks like it should be (dc, ch-1) in ea of the next 23 spaces between armholes, not 12 – not sure how that happened but I”m grateful you caught it! I’ll get the PDF updated right away. Thank you!
I just finished the elf coat for my 14 year old daughter! She LOVES it and it looks absolutely adorable on her. She has gotten so many compliments from friends and family. Thank you so much for sharing that pattern. It was just exactly the type of sweater my daughter was looking for.
Aww thank you! That’s such wonderful feedback, I’m so glad you enjoyed the pattern 🙂 🙂
Hi there 🙂
I am new to Tunisian crochet but I just started the beautiful elf coat in the same Autumn shade of DK riot as in the pattern (it’s an amazing patter, I bought the pdf). It took me quite a while to master an even tension but I finally have my 1st 2 straight panels complete so feel I am on the way now.
My question is the length is only coming up at about 16″. I can easily stretch it out to 17.5″, and am hoping when it’s all sewn together and has the LDC edge that the weight will help stretch it slightly. Is that normal or would you suggest re-evaluating my tension for the sake of the project as a whole?
I have soooo much to learn lol
Hi Amanda! Actually 16″ for the bottom wedges is about right. The image displayed on the pattern PDF is approximate, and I suspect I took that measurement after the original pieces had been stretched out a bit too much – if you can stretch it to 17.5 but the “neutral” measurement is 16″, you are right on the money and for sure the LDC border will help lengthen it by an inch or two 🙂 🙂 I’m so glad you’re enjoying the pattern, if you have any other questions please don’t hesitate to ask! <3
Hi there! I just wanted to suggest making a version of your witch hat pattern that works with larger yarns. (4mm-5mm hook) I have so many colors I would love to see as a hat but they’re too chunky to work with your pattern. Thanks for reading!
Hi Megan! I would definitely be interested in that – what weight of yarn did you have in mind?
First of all, thank you so much for making these patterns available!
I am making the elf coat in medium size and I am a complete newbie at crocheting. My problem is that I’ve done one sleeve with the old style and started the other, but now with the updated instructions the number of stitches I have don’t match the instructions anymore. I am on row 29 and have 68 stitches instead of 64. Unfortunately I’m too clueless to accurately count the stitches on my finished sleeve, so I can’t use that for help either 😀
Do you have the old style sleeve pattern available anywhere?
Hi Sylvia! Sorry about that, I knew there may be one or two people who got “caught” in the middle of the pattern change, so I’m glad you asked! The old style pattern isn’t available publicly anymore but you should have 70 stitches at Row 29 for the Medium – if you email me directly at moralefiber(at)yahoo.com, I’ll be happy to send you the PDF file for the old Elf Coat free of charge so you can work the first version’s sleeve to match the other sleeve! 🙂
Hi, I have the pdf pattern and am just on the skirt panels at the moment but was wondering what the differences are between the old and updated pattern? I think I have the old pattern as row 29 of the sleeve is also 70 stitches for a medium. I just wanted to check if the differences between the two patterns were significant or now, or if there was a problem with the older pattern x
Hi Amanda, if you just have only worked the skirt wedges portion so far, you can continue with the new pattern with no interruption 🙂 The new version modified the sleeve shaping and the stitch counts of some of the sleeve sizes, as well as expanding the size of the hood and adding a pockets option. No changes were made to the skirt part! 😀
Hi, i am working on rhiannon hooded cowl. I am wondering what am i doing wrong. I am on row 15, and it is only 7 3/4 inches wide, im using bulky 5 yarn, any help is appropriate, thank you
Hi Susana! It sounds like you are having gauge troubles. Sometimes even yarns in the same category will produce very different effects when worked up. What yarn and hook combination are you using, and did you get the target gauge for that combination at the start of the project?
Hi there! I’m working on my second elf coat, and I’m having an absolute heart ache attaching the hood (I did last time too, but that was entirely my error and was so small I couldn’t put my head in it! lol).
I’m using Red Heart Unforgettable (and completely in love with it), and the gauge is longer than expected but it has the right width, so I know it’s not a gauge problem.
Even when I go back to count stitch for stitch, I have 8 stitches too many on each side. The stitches across the front are 15, the stitches across the back are 30 – so it looks like the hood should attach stitch for stitch. But that leaves 8 additional stitches at the sleeve cap on each side. Do you have any additional instructions or pictures for what to do with the should cap “vent” I’ve accidentally created?
Hi Pat! That’s perplexing – you should have a stitch-for-stitch ratio for attaching the hood rows to the top edges of the stitches that make up the collar. You say you have 30 stitches across the back – the back panel ends with 25 stitches, and then 8 stitches are “removed” from that area, and also from the two front panels, when you seam together the sleeves, front panels, and back panel. This is specified in the instructions for seaming together the sleeves where it says to “overlap” the sleeve caps by 4 stitches on the tops of the front and back panels – did you get that part overlapped? if not that would explain the extras!
The easiest fix, however, would be to take out the seam connecting the hood to the collar and then remove several rows of seam from the seam that makes up the back of the hood. If you have 16 extra stitches on the collar that need to take the hood attachment, then you’d want to undo 8 rows of seaming from the seam up the back of the hood, which will give you the extra connection points needed to cover the entire collar 🙂 I hope that makes sense!
I think it does make sense…it sounds like I’m going to have to take out the sleeves (again – I tried sewing the cuff to the shoulder at least once) and the hood, to see if I can get them lined up according to the pattern. At the moment, we managed to kludge it together, but I can only wear it hood-up if I hold my shoulders up to my ears. Wish me luck!
I just started on the coat, a rather preemptive start in anticipation of the plus size pattern. I’m not asking for too many advanced specifics since I do plan to buy that version once it’s published, but did you add any length to the simple and pointed wedges? If so, can you tell me how much? Thank you so much!
Hi Kacie! Happy to help – the answer is no, the wedges are not being altered in any way, so you can start on those as soon as you want! 🙂 🙂 The XL will have 15 and the 2XL will have 17 <3
i was wondering if the forest girl hat could be done in worsted weight yarn? the yarn you used seemed to be thinner than the average bulky weight and it’s a five mm hook so i was a bit curious.
Yes absolutely! If you can meet the gauge for the pattern with a worsted weight (and you should be able to as you say the mohair I used was pretty thin for a #5 bulky), then #4 is fine. I actually did redesign this hat for #4 worsted weights in the version called “Mori Girl Beret” which is a paid pattern, but you can do the same thing with this free version by just changing the weight and using the same gauge 🙂
I am nearing the end of my 1st elf coat and am so excited to finish it. I just have a question about the number of rows for the full hood. I started off using a paid pattern but switched to the online pattern as I wanted to use the new pattern changes. I have messaged before with a question and you mentioned you had expanded the hood in the online pattern also. So the older paid pattern says 121 rows, and the new pattern says 151 rows. Please can I just check 151 rows is definitely correct – and does this mean for the full hood using the new pattern I would seam 119 rows, leaving the remaining 32 rows unseamed? (I am getting myself so confused apologies!)
Hi Amanda! Yes, the 151 rows is the correct number for the most updated version of the full size Elf Hood 🙂 So you’d still leave 32 rows unseamed, leaving 119 rows seamed together. If you contact me directly via e-mail (moralefiber(at)yahoo.com) I can get you the latest version of the PDF pattern so you have an updated copy! 🙂
Hi! I am making your basic bralette for a friend with a band size 32″.
On the original blog page there is one set of measurements, on the blog page advertising the ravelry pattern there is a second set of measurements, and on the ravelry page (pre-buying), there is a THIRD set of measurements that looks like a mixture of the first two.
Which measurement is correct? the differences end up being a few inches and I would like to make it correctly.
Yikes, you are right, lol! I have changed that measurement formula a couple of times but to be honest, it’s because there’s no exact magic formula that’s going to give everyone exactly the right length for their body size and type. The most recent formula is listed in the free version on the blog page and in the PDF of the written pattern. I am thinking the measurements on the ravelry page and the ravelry PDF advert page are outdated and I’ll get those fixed right away 🙂 however, you can use whichever measurement seems good for your inteded wearer.
Not a question, but something I definitely learned the hard way–I’m working on one of your Pixie Belts, and made the mistake of using wool. Which stretches. I’m okay with it because I used a couple rows of straight-up dc and I have TONS of buttons and can just use my dc’s as buttonholes. But it seems like “DO NOT use wool for your belt base because it stretches” might be good advice to give your fans.
I’ll use cotton to sl st the pockets on and let you know if that helps. 🙂
That’s great advice! I’ve actually found that nearly every fiber I use for these stretches pretty significantly, which is why I use so many rows of slip stitching to finish them off 😀 even that sometimes doesn’t do enough so I’ve recently begun rigging up a pseudo drawstring method too lol
When I did the slip-stitching in cotton yarn to attach the pockets, the belt base shrank back down to size! So it IS possible to use stretchy wools for this.
Plus, the company that makes the wool I used–Urth Yarns–is one of those companies that plants a tree for every skein you buy! You have to order from a yarn specialty store, though, because they don’t appear to sell their yarns through their website. (And yes, they have cotton yarn in funky colors.) I’m not paid by them; I just thought as a fellow nature-lover you might find that interesting.
Oh hooray! And thank you so much for the awesome eco friendly yarn tip 🙂 🙂
Elf coat skirt sections. I have completed the flat sections and notice you say to stretch the pointed sections can I just do decreasing to make the points? if so what do you recommend?
No, the points are not made by decreasing – follow the directions for the pointed wedges 🙂
Im doing the woodsman wife pattern, im about to start row 3 of the main body, im using a different weight of yarn and i ended the row with front post hdc. I know the pattern was (3 fphdc , 3 bphdc)x 16 but i didnt end on bphdc, does this mean that when i do row 3 and repeat row 2, i start with doing (bphdc, fphdc) instead of as written since i ended at a different place? let me know if you need me to explain better
Hi Bianca! Great question – I am looking at my version of the pattern and I think there may be an instruction missing. I will look into it further but for now, you can just make sure you have the right amount of stitches and do the following – work FPHDC into any stitch that is foward or FPHDC positioned, work BPHDC into any stitch that is backward or BPHDC positioned. This means that when you turn the work to begin the next row, if your last stitches were FPHDC, then once you turn they will be BPHDC from that side, and you should work them accordingly 🙂 Does that make sense?