Pattern Help & Support

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Questions regarding my pay patterns (or any of my patterns really!) can be posted here in the comments.

As of right now I am online and available almost every day, and if I can’t answer your question immediately I will make it my top priority to do so. Thank you so much for supporting me by buying my patterns!

-MF

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128 thoughts on “Pattern Help & Support

  1. I recently bought your Hippy Heaven Drop Sleeves pattern. I thought it was the whole top. I search for the title that the sleeve pattern suggested and there was no results. So if you could please let me know where I could get the pattern for it. I will pay for it I just wanted the whole thing thanks so much.

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  2. hey! i need some help with the rhiannon cowl. i converted the pattern and i’m using the buttercream alpaca and so far it’s GORGeous.

    but i’m pretty disoriented. i seamed up the hood with the sc, did the dc/ch/sk, now i’m about to do the last dc round and then do the strings but i dont really understand where to put them and which direction they should be going :/

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      • First off, that yarn looks AWESOME!

        Sorry to hear you’re having trouble, can you give me the specific row numbers that are not working for you? To answer the question of where the string tie is woven, it is woven in and out of the spaces between dc stitches on the second to last round when working the neck end (the end with the seam the forms the back of the hood). Folding the string in half and starting at the stitch next to the seam of the hood, weave one half in and out of the DC stitches down one side toward the point opposite on the round. Then repeat with the other side, leaving the leaf ends dangling out next to each other. If that doesn’t make sense I’d be happy to take some extra pictures for you!

        -MF

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  3. Looking to attempt your ‘Stevie’ Mandala Duster … It’s gorgeous! … Regarding the yarn … #2 or #3 ? Meaning … FIngering or Sports? 2ply or 3ply? Light Fingering or FIngering? Sorry, US weight numbers often confuse this poor Aussie πŸ™‚

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    • Good question! Since the majority of the yarn I used for the Mandala duster jacket was recycled, I only have my own homemade WPI measurement to go on – 18 WPI, which puts it somewhere around Fingering weight or possibly Sport depending on which yarn weight table you look at. There doesn’t seem to be a hard agreement between yarn weight tables, but I would qualify the yarn as regular (not light) Fingering weight, or 4 ply as they might refer to it in Australia πŸ™‚

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  4. Hi,

    I’m making your Stevie Duster for my niece (she’s in total love with it). I’m about ready to start the armholes and am kinda confused on how to measure the body of the person to get the correct placement of the armholes. The instructions say shoulder blades but it doesn’t look like it would be wide enough. Should I measure from top of shoulder to shoulder? I just want to get this right for her as she doesn’t live close and I don’t want to send her something that doesn’t fit correctly. Thanks so much! Kelly

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    • Hi Kelly! Great question – while the measurement can depend on how loosely you want the duster to fit, my go-to measuring point is to measure straight across my back from the point where one armpit starts to curve inward to the same point on the opposite armpit. For me, this is about 13″, and that translates to the distance I placed between the armholes on the armhole round. I made a graphic to illustrate this, but it won’t let me post it inside this comment – so please refer to the bottom of the original pattern post, where I am going to add the image!

      The measurement looks small in the image, but the duster hadn’t been fully stretched out at that point. If you are worried about it being too small, I would say that it’s better to add a little extra distance between armholes than to risk it being too small, since the nature of the garment is to drape to fit anyway πŸ™‚

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  5. Hi I purchased the freewheeling poncho but I can’t find it ???
    I have realised that paypal has my old email address which I can’t access anymore.
    if possible could you send it to my Ravelry account please. My user name is cinta812

    Thanks

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  6. Im confused with the stevie mandala duster. At the beginning of pattern, I’m not sure about end of R5 to start R6. The dc in the top of the first cluster, R6 ch 3, ( counts as first dc ) 2 more in the same sp. Please help ripped it out twice.

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    • Okay! Basically, you end Rnd 5 by working a double crochet into the first cluster of the round. This creates a space the same size as the rest of the ch-3 spaces you have worked that round. So instead of chaining 3, and then slip stitching toward the next chain space to start Rnd 6, you double crochet (the length equivalent of 3 chain sts) so your hook ends up being right at the start of a space to crochet into for the next round (the double crochet join you just made). So once you double crochet to close Rnd 5, you Ch 3 to gain height and immediately start working into the side of the double crochet join as if it were a chain space.

      Does that make more sense?

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  7. Hi! I’m working on the Freewheelin’ Poncho and so far it’s goin’ great! But I don’t understand Rnd 1, Step 1 of the Collar Border. Can you explain “12th ch of the bottom of the ch-12”?

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    • Good question! So you work the ch-12 in Row 34 to complete the collar. The stitches you will work into for the collar will be the base, or the loops underneath, those chain stitches. The “12th” chain refers to the last chain stitch you worked in that section of the row – so when you join your yarn to start the collar border, you will attach it into the base of the 12th chain stitch from Row 34. This positions your hook so that the next 11 sts you work will be into the base of the chain stitches of the rest of that chain. If that doesn’t clear things up and you are still confused let me know and I will try to post a picture!

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  8. Hello, I’m having trouble starting the the freewheelin poncho. How many dc ‘s, including the beginning ch3, should there be after completing row 1? 43 or 44? My brain just can not compute…lol…Thanks!

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    • Hi Cindy! So for the first row there is a total of 44 double crochet stitches PLUS the ch-3 at the beginning of the row. This creates a total of 43 ch-1 spaces. The beginning ch-3 does not technically count as a double crochet and even though you will eventually work into the space between the beg ch-3 and the first double crochet, that space DOESN’T count as one of your 43 ch-1 spaces. That space exists only so that you have some place work the final double crochet on the next round. Might seem a little wonky but it starts to make sense once you work a few rows! If that doesn’t clear things up or if you have any other questions please let me know πŸ™‚

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  9. Hi, I have just bought your pattern for the Freewheelin’ Poncho and I’m stuck before I even begin. Can you please explain how to do DCH. I’ve never seen that abbreviation before

    Thanks

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    • Hi Jeni! The DCh refers to the double chain stitch, which you can find a tutorial for at https://moralefiber.wordpress.com/2015/03/07/double-chain-tutorial/
      My fault, I forgot to include an explanation of that abbreviation! I will make sure to correct that in the PDF file and update it.
      If you wish, you can also substitute a regular foundation chain of the same count – I like the double chain because it is more flexible and stretchy, but substituting a loosely worked regular chain will not change the look of the garment much.
      Thanks and be sure to let me know if you have any other questions at all πŸ™‚

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  10. Thank you so much for responding so quickly. I’m going to take a look and hopefully will be in full swing soon. If I get stuck I’ll buzz off another message

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  11. On the freewheeling poncho. Row 22. I don’t understand that part. Do you dc in the chain 1 spaces for the first 19 stitches and then dc2tog and then do 19 more dc stitches after?

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    • Hi Rachael! I apologize for the delay in responding, usually I am much faster but I have been away camping for the weekend. Row 22 begins the collar shaping and only is worked across half of the poncho.
      “Row 22: Ch 3, turn. *(Dc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1) 19 times. 1 Dc2tog over the next 2 ch-1 spaces. – 19 ch-1 spaces + dc2tog decrease and beg ch-3 (Fig. 5 – dc2tog decrease)”
      So you dc in the chain-1 spaces for the first 19 stitches, then dc2tog decrease for the final stitch of the row. Everything AFTER the hyphenation is a stitch count, NOT directions. Does that clear it up for you?

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  12. I am having hard time on the freewheeling poncho row 22. I cannot understand it at all. I asked my mom who’s been crocheting to years and years and she didn’t understand it either.

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    • This must be the comment you were talking about in the e-mail! I think it got shunted to some weird place on WordPress. Anyway, sorry I didn’t see it before! Please see the e-mail I sent with the pointers for this row and let me know specifically which part is confusing, and I’m sure we’ll be able to figure it out!

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      • Do you triple crochet in all the clusters? And do you do the 4 DC clusters in every ch 2 space all the way around? I ended up with WAY to many spaces!

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      • Okay, so with Rnd 12 what you basically have is the last building block of the 4 dc cluster “stacks” that have been building the last two rows. I can’t insert the image here, but I will attach it at the very bottom of the original post for you to look at.
        You will be alternating 4 dc clusters with sets of treble crochets. You ONLY work a 4 Dc cluster in the spaces that lie directly between two clusters on the row below. The trebles are worked between the clusters on the outside edges of that space. The circled portion on the image I am posting highlights this row and what it should look like. Hopefully that helps!

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  13. hi i am working on the free stevie mandela duster pattern and i am on row 18 is pattern suppose to curve in? i fallowed the pattern exactly as it says but its starting to curve in

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    • Hi Danielle! No, the pattern is not supposed to really curve in significantly at any point – is there any way you can e-mail me a picture of your Rnd 18? I could take a look at it and see if I can identify the problem for you! Here’s my e-mail
      reginaalexisweiss@gmail.com
      You can also send me a link if you use a photo sharing website or tag me in a photo on Instagram if you use it! Any of those methods is fine (unfortunately Facebook doesn’t let people post images to business pages.. I have no idea why)

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  14. I don’t understand row 16. In row 15 we made shells so are you saying to do the stitches in each shell. Like 1hdc in the D.C. Of shell Dc In the tr crochet etc. and also the chain 3 is from the slip stitch in row15 Then skip hdc in row 15. I’m so confused. Thank you for all the help. I’m actually making 2at the same time. Couldn’t decide what color I wanted so doing both

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    • In Rnd 16, the directions refer to each individual stitch of the shell – so when it says “hdc in the next st, sk next st” it refers to skipping the next individual stitch, not the entire shell. Also, you don’t skip every single stitch, because you will be working a series of three stitches one right after the other in the top of each shell. Does that make more sense? I am thinking of making a chart for this pattern sometime soon – I don’t know if you read charts but I think it might be helpful to everyone if there was a chart for at least the first part of this pattern!

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  15. I’m working on Stevie circle….it hit me…I’m a plus size girl, will this fit me and if not how can I make it bigger? I’m not putting sleeves in mine. Thank you!

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    • Hi Tammi! The original duster pattern is written for small/medium sizes. Though there’s not a specific pattern written to make this a bigger size, there’s some discussion in the comment section of the original post about making it to fit plus-size – you might check it out to get some ideas. I would say if you are not planning on adding sleeves, you could also take a look at the sister pattern, the Lotus Circular Vest, which is made with bigger sizes in mind but is essentially the same pattern:
      https://moralefiber.wordpress.com/2016/06/05/lotus-mandala-circular-vest/
      In my experience if you are making it for bigger sizes, you should check your measurement from armpit to armpit and try to space the armholes to match that measurement. Generally if you are increasing the width between armholes, it’s better to put the armholes in a few rounds earlier than is written in the Stevie duster pattern, which is what I did with the Lotus Mandala.
      Hope that helps!

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  16. It’s me again, I’m starting r18 and it says sc in in ch space ch 3 95 times Does that mean I should have only 95 so because I have almost double that. Or does it mean do the first 95 then finish the round with sc in next sp, ch 1, hdc in the fist sc of round. I must be way off if I should have total of 96 ch spaces. I really do appreciate your help

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    • Hi again! So you mean that you have too many chain spaces on Rnd 17? If so, did you make sure to only dc, ch-3 in every other stitch on that round?

      If you did then it probably indicates that it’s my count that is off, not yours. Since it’s a free pattern, the Stevie Duster didn’t get checked super-thoroughly and it’s overdue for me to check & correct it to be honest πŸ˜›

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  17. Hello! Im a long time crocheter, however not so great at reading patterns. The scrappy shawl is so clever and I’m really to get going— but already stuck on row 1!

    (Row Row 1: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc into the ring. Ch 1, dc into the ring).

    What does + ch 1 mean? Does that mean add 1 chain to the previous 4?
    Thanks for your help.

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    • Hi Dinny!

      So the first part of Row 1 just means that your beginning Ch 4 stands in for a double crochet (which is equal to 3 chains) plus an additional chain stitch. So “counts as dc + ch 1” just describes the purpose of the Ch 4 and how it fits into the overall pattern. Its a bit of a quirky way to write it, but I find that it helps me visualize the overall scheme of the work better when I include it, so hopefully it is more helpful than confusing, lol!
      Short answer to your question is that you only Ch 4 in the beginning πŸ™‚

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  18. Hi! I’m working on the freewheelin poncho and though I’ve used the same yarn type and hook size it seems to be really short. I am rather tall 5’8″ and the front is only hitting my belly button.
    Would you suggest adding rows to both ends in order to lengthen it?

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    • Hi Heather! That might be the result of a gauge difference, but I would say that if you haven’t already added the collar and fringe, I would suggest waiting to add rows until after you do those two parts. It’ll still be possible to add rows at that point if you need to.
      The reason I would suggest waiting is because the weight of the collar and fringe really drape the mesh out and make it longer. If you’ve already done the collar and fringe and it’s still too short, you could add rows of dc+ch-1 mesh pretty easily, as long as you worked a few dc stitches at each end to blend with the border on the side.

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    • Hi Katelyn! I designed this to be a very loose, open vest so that it could be as size inclusive as possible, so you shouldn’t need to modify it too much as long as your gauge comes out the same. The measurement in diameter as taken running through the center of the armholes is 45″, so since a size 16-18 is US women’s sizes is a bust of 41-43 inches, that should be almost fitting. I would recommend adding several repeats of Rnd 29 to make sure the amount of drape stays proportionate on a larger frame. Also, be sure to double check the measurement between the shoulders!
      Thanks and let me know if you have any other questions! πŸ™‚

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  19. Hi I purchased the rainbow Mandela waistcoat pattern yesterday before I joined the site, the pattern was unfortunately sent to my old email address which is linked to my PayPal and I no longer use this address so when I finally got in the entire inbox was empty. Could it possibly be resent or sent to this email address please

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  20. I was wondering where you got the yarn and if the unforgettable from Red Heart is too thin because I got and started with the yarn but it looks so small compared to your circle????? We have a Hobby Lobby and a Micheal’s in the area to buy it if it is not ordered from a different place.

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      • Not a problem! As far as I know, Red Heart Unforgettable should be a close substitute yarn, since it’s a #4 weight and so is the yarn I used for the original (Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton) but sometimes even the same weight can have noticeable differences when worked up. Can you tell me what the measurement of your circle is in diameter when measured across the center for whichever round you are on? If you can get a measurement I’ll double check it against my original and see how close it is.

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  21. 3″ on round 3 with a J hook. I seen though where you used a cotton on the vest would that work well with the duster too? One snag on this yarn it would be a goner ugh! This is what I am making but going by the vest pattern.

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    • 3″ diameter for Rnd 3 is right on target for gauge! So good news there πŸ™‚ I think cotton works the best with the duster too, but I usually work the center of the duster in wool, just because that’s usually what I have around that will work for color combinations – but I personally like the duster best in finer weight cottons.

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  22. Hi,

    I’m writing to ask permission to use pictures from your website/blog. Of course I’d be sure to link back to your post and give you credit for the pictures. Please let me know if you’re okay with this, otherwise I won’t use them.
    Thanks so much!

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  23. help! first question on Stevie Duster: How do I figure size? did I miss somethingin the instructions and I am trying to understand the ” keeping last loop on hook” ? any photos of this?

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    • Hi there! The only specified instruction for figuring size on the Lotus Mandala Duster (aka the Stevie Duster) is for measuring across the shoulderblades to figure how far apart to place the armholes. Since this is more of a tutorial than an exact pattern, I didn’t go figure up the full instructions for multiple sizes – however, there are lots of comments on the original pattern post with advice from people who have done it, so you might be able to find some good tips there πŸ™‚
      For keeping the last loop on the hook, you’re essentially skipping the last step to complete the stitch. For example, if you are working a “double crochet with the last lp on the hk” you would:
      -YO as normal
      -Insert hook under next stitch or space and draw up a loop
      -YO and draw through two loops on the hook.

      In a normal double crochet, you would do that last step twice, but in this instance you are not working the last loop off, so you will end up with one extra loop on your hook than when you started. I don’t have a picture particular to this pattern, but there’s a good video on the theory here:

      Also, this pattern’s main motif is exactly the same as the sister pattern, the Lotus Mandala Vest, for which there is a video, so if you’re anywhere between Rnds 1-15, you can follow along. Here’s the link to that video:

      Hope that helps! πŸ™‚

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  24. Hello! My name is Aly Hong and I wanted to ask your permission to post a video for your Crochet Mandela Circular Vest! I will of course link your website and written instructions in the description! Would this be okay with you?

    I realize that there are many written tutorials already on this piece but I would like to ask for your permission first! 😊

    Thank you for your reply in advance!
    With many thanks, Aly Hong.

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  25. HI Regina,

    I love your lotus mandala vest its so beautiful!! I am trying to make one but am having some trouble. I am at the end of row 5/starting row 6. The written instructions say to do a dc at the top of the first cluster, then ch 3 and do 2 more dc in the same space. So do I do 2 more at the top of the cluster that I did the first dc in or the ch 3 space next to it?

    Also, I am watching the video tutorial that goes along with the pattern, and she says to do the dc at the top of the cluster, ch 2, do 2 more dc in the same space, but it looks like she moved over to the ch 3 space next to it, i’m a bit confused.

    Also, at the end of the 6th round, it says to do a sl st in the last ch of the first ch 3, but if I follow the video, there is no ch 3 until after the dc, ch 2, 2 dc.

    Please help!! I would love to make this for my sister but I don’t know what do to here.

    Thanks!
    Bree-Anne

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    • Hi Bree-Anne! I am so glad you like the design πŸ™‚ Cynthia did a great job with the video, but I was not involved with the production of it and so I can’t account for any differences there may be in the way the design is worked, but I will try to describe the way I do it and see if that helps!

      For Rnd 5, the distance between the clusters is traveled by working a ch-3 between, so the end of the Rnd 5 replaces this chain-3 with a dc stitch instead, so that your hook lands at the start of a ch-3 sized “space” formed by that last dc stitch. The beginning of Rnd 6 chains 3 to start and count as the first dc, and then works the following dc stitches into the side of the last dc from Rnd 5, treating it as if it were a regular ch-3 space. So when it says to work 2 more dc into the “same space” it is referring to the space created under the last double crochet for Rnd 5. Does that make sense?

      Some patterns would just work the final ch-3 and then slip stitch to join, and then use slip stitching to travel to the next available space. I use this method in my patterns because I prefer not to travel by slip stitching πŸ™‚

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  26. Hi Regina,

    I’m making your Stevie Duster, I LOVE how it looks!!!! I’m making it for my daughter which I describe as my hippy child, she is a mandala lover and a feisty goer lol. Your written instructions are great! I started off doing Cynthia’s video but it was so overly ruffly by the end and my daughter didn’t like so much ruffle and I agreed, so I ripped the whole vest out and restarted using the written instructions I’m on row 28 and it seems pretty ruffly again, I’m using a softer yarn (Redheart Love) and a size J 6mm hook the stitches are much looser. Am I doing something wrong or is it sposed to be this ruffle at this point?

    Thanks for the help!
    Cheryl

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    • Hi Cheryl! I’m so glad you and your daughter like the design! I’m the hippie child in my family too as you may have noticed πŸ˜‰
      The pattern does get very ruffley after the diamond mesh rounds as a result of increasing the number of stitches dramatically over that part of the design. My guess is that the ruffle on yours looks much more noticeable than the one I have pictured because you are using a heavier weight yarn than I did – to mitigate this, you can drop down the repeats of the diamond mesh to just ch-4’s like this:

      26. Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 4) 158 times. Sc in the next ch sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round.
      Sc in the same sp, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 5) 158 times. Sc in the next space, ch 2, dc in the first sc of the round.
      27-31. Rpt rnd 26

      Then you can drop down the number of stitches in the shell in the next round:

      32. Sc in the same sp, 3 dc in next sc – one fan made. (1 sc in next ch sp, 3 dc in next sc) 159 times, join with a sl st in first sc of the round.
      33. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. Sc in 2nd dc of fan, ch 1, sc in the same dc, ch 1 (dc in next sc, ch 1. Sc in the 2nd dc of next fan, ch 1, sc in the same dc, ch 1) 158 times. Dc in the next sc, ch 1, sc in the 2nd dc of next fan ch 1, sc in the same dc, work 1 hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
      34. Ch 3 – counts as first hdc + ch 1. (Hdc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1) 159 times. Hdc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, hdc in the 2nd ch of beg ch-3.

      That’s just a rough draft of what you can try to reduce the ruffley-ness, so no guarantees that it will work, but it might help (but of course the stitch counts would be different). If you try it and that works, I would recommend skipping the last two rounds entirely and substituting some sort of solid dc border in a 1:1 stitch ratio if you still need to add length after that.

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  27. Regina,
    Wow! I didn’t think you’d respond so fast, THANK YOU! I will try your suggestion it sounds like it will work I don’t think I’ll need to add any length she’s only 5’2″ and 110 pounds soaking wet lol I was thinking on adding more to the top, the other vest barely covered her shoulders but I was using a smaller hook so maybe thats why, I’ll keep you posted.

    Thanks a bunch!! Oh, yes I noticed the hippy child in you too lol.

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  28. Regina,
    I’m on round 28 the ruffles are better and the length is good I don’t want it any longer but it needs more across the top and chest so I’m thinking I should do what you mentioned about doing just the top half, would that fix that problem too?

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    • Oh good πŸ™‚ And yes, if you follow the modified rounds on the top half only, you’ll get better coverage on the torso. It does take some problem-solving to figure out how to turn the rounds into rows without adding abrupt height, though. I usually chain and then slip stitch in a nearby space at the end of a row to taper off the height, then turn and include that chain/sl st combo into a chain space for the next row. I’m still figuring out how to do it nicely but the bonus is that it’s not really noticeable since everything drapes down anyway

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      • Hi again,
        I’m still working on my project and I’m already thinking of getting more yarn for the next one I seen you mentioned using lion brand shawl in a ball so I’m trying to figure how much yarn, I went to Ravely and it says around 1,500 yd. and the yarn has just over 500 yd so if I get 4 balls I should be fine? That just doesn’t seem like enough, I think I’m missing something, whats your thought?
        Thanks again
        Cheryl

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      • For the Duster pattern, 4 balls seems about right actually. I made a version of the Vest pattern (very similar to the main body of the Duster but slightly fewer rounds) and I added sleeves (moderate ones, not the big flared ones) and it altogether only used about 2 1/2 skeins of Shawl in a Ball! Turned out wondrously soft and light, too!

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  29. Regina,
    Ok, I have to be doing something really wrong! I’m not sure if its the yarn or what but across the shoulders it just doesn’t seem right, the top that lays over the back and shoulders falls down when she puts it on which then pulls the shoulder area back and down. I don’t know if that makes any sense but I’m thinking its the yarn and/or hook size?? I did do what you suggested about adding more to the front and thats not helping. Should I add a few more rows to the front bust area? I did rows 26-31 on the top half only, I haven’t started any fans yet. I ripped it all out to the beginning of the armholes and followed the instructions for the Lotus thinking maybe its the position of the armholes and that didn’t help at all lol. If I keep going will the fans make a difference and balance it out?
    Thanks again
    Cheryl

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    • Hmm, I would say that if you are having severe “drooping” issues in the back (as in the fabric falls down between the shoulders when the armholes/sleeves are fit snugly around the shoulders) than you probably need to move your armholes closer together. It also might be that the heavier weight of yarn is exaggerating a problem that is only moderate when worked in lighter yarn. The piece does tend to slip down from the shoulders normally (after all it’s a circle and people are more rectangular in general) but its usually not a big problem on the ones I make – I have taken to adding ties to the front after its all finished, but it does stay on without – so if it is absolutely not staying on at all, you are probably either having an armhole placement problem or a yarn weight/gauge problem. Either way, continuing with the outer rounds won’t make much of a difference, the problem will have to be addressed with armhole placement, so you were right about that part for sure!

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  30. Regina,
    I just purchased the Flower Child Pullover pattern. Question on the sizing. I think I would need to make one between the small and medium. You mentioned in the pattern that a medium or large could be made bigger by adding on extra repeats of Rnd 8. What about the small? Could I also add on to the small at Rnd 8 to make this more like a 34″ or 36″ at the bust? Thank you. P.S. I recently made the Mandala Circular Vest. So cute and fun!
    Laura Z

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    • Hi Laura! Great question – the answer is yes, you can add Rnd 8 into the small size pattern (between Rnd 7 on the small and what would otherwise be Rnd 8) to make the bust a little wider. So glad you liked the Mandala Vest too! πŸ˜€

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      • Hi Regina,
        Thanks for your reply. I decided to go ahead and make the medium. However, something has gone wrong. I bought the same yarn and used the same needle size and got the same gauge (6″ after round 4) as you had in the pattern. I have made the front and back and done the fagoting to join them, made the collar, and most of one sleeve. After completing the collar, it was really tight so I made an adjustment that made it work. The pullover itself is very tight and the center medallion is falling higher than those in the photo. Nevertheless, I decided to forge ahead. I knew when my row 20 on the sleeve was going to be only about and inch or so below my elbow that the gauge had to be way off. I’ve added about 7 rows to the sleeve. My thoughts keep going to this: when I measure the gauge after round four, I am measuring from an outer loop edge to the outer loop edge opposite it. I am wondering if you are measuring from the point in round four to the point opposite. If that were the case, I am surely losing significant inches as I go. I really like this pullover and this one may have to go to a smaller person, but I don’t want to start again until I figure this out. Your thoughts? Sorry for the lengthy note. Thanks, Regina.

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      • Hi again! I checked against several of my sample projects and the answer is, unfortunately, that I was measuring from point (the top of tr3tog) to point across the mandala, which would mean that your gauge ended up too small 😦 I should definitely have specified that in the pattern – so sorry that you got so far with the wrong gauge! I will go fix that in the pattern right away and if you let me know whether you bought the pattern through Ravelry or Etsy I will e-mail you a coupon code for a free pattern to help make up for all that work you did!

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      • Regina,
        At least I am comforted in the fact that I did not do something really crazy!! Now I just have to figure out the right hook size to use next time. Have you made this pullover in a lighter weight yarn in any of your samples? I’d love to try it in something with a softer drape. Of course, I’d have to figure out that gauge thing!!! Thanks for getting back to me, Regina. I bought the pattern through Ravelry. I love your stuff and will continue to follow. I’m an old flower child from the 60’s!!

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      • I haven’t made this pullover in a lighter weight, but I bet it would be really nice (now that the gauge is worked out)! I have found lighter weight yarns worked with a bigger hook tend to end up a little taller for me. I will be sending you a Ravelry code by e-mail πŸ™‚

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  31. Hello, I’m making the Lotus Mandala Circular Vest. I’m following your written pattern along with Cynthia’s video. I’m having issues with row 15. I’m only getting 47 shells vs 48 like the pattern says. All of the previous rows have. When adding up and row 14 I had 95. What am I missing? Can I continue with 47?

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    • Would you happen to be able to send me a picture of the beginning/ending spot for Rnds 14 and 15 via e-mail? My e-mail address is reginaalexisweiss(at)gmail.com – I have an idea but it would be easiest to check visually.

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  32. Hi Regina!

    I am on row 14 of the lotus vest and I somehow ended up with 101 dc instead of 95. I counted and checked the stitches twice. I don’t know what I did wrong. Any suggestions?

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    • Hmm, there’s supposed to be 96 total repeats of the (dc, ch-1, sk next st) repeat on Round 14, including the beginning chain as a dc. If you have 101, that’s five more – have you double checked your repeats in Rounds 12 and 13? Having 5 extra sounds like the result of an extra repeat somewhere in the rounds below, but I can’t say for sure.

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      • I checked row 13 and I have way more than what I’m supposed to have. I’m guessing I messed up somewhere in row 11 or 12.

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      • If you’d like you can send me a picture at reginaalexisweiss(at)gmail.com and I can see if there’s any immediately noticeable problems! Sometimes that’s the easiest way πŸ™‚ I’m headed out the door soon but I should be back this evening and I can check it out

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  33. I have a question on what row of the vest, would I start for the duster? I am on the armhole row, using the expanded sizing, I want the sleeves and all, but cannot figure out where to continue.

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    • Hi Lou Ann! The Lotus Vest and the Lotus Duster patterns have the same design for the first 16 Rnds, so if you want to work the duster pattern you can pick it up at Rnd 17. Although, the Duster pattern is not written to support the extra sizing rounds included in the vest pattern, so you might have to wing it on that part. You should be able to work Rnd 17 something like this:
      “Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. ( dc in next sp, ch 2) X times. Sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5.”

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  34. I am working on Lotus Mandala vest. I am on 12 and 13 and feel like I am missing a row. Said to change color at row 13 but when I look at the picture of circle 10-14 .row 11 group of 3 clusters then in 12 group of 2 cluster but next row showed 1 cluster then color change . It is like I missed a row between 12-13. Hope I am making myself clear.

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