Pattern Help & Support

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Questions regarding my pay patterns (or any of my patterns really!) can be posted here in the comments.

As of right now I am online and available almost every day, and if I can’t answer your question immediately I will make it my top priority to do so. Thank you so much for supporting me by buying my patterns!

-MF

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198 thoughts on “Pattern Help & Support

  1. is there any chance of any video of the lotus mandala circle vest – sleeves – and the Stevie being made??? I cannot make heads or tails of the instructions at all – confusing to me. Video instructions would be most helpful and I can stop frogging my attempts to make the vest. I would love to have a finished product. I love the way the center of yours is – it is not as bulky as all the others I have watched, and yours hangs better.

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    • Hi Sandra! I have given permission for one or two other crocheters to make a video tutorial for the Mandala vest – I assume you’ve seen the one linked in the post, but I’ll throw the link in here anyway:

      I don’t give permission for the lotus duster pattern, though the central mandala is the same until Rnd 16 so the video for the vest would help for the duster as well. I’d like to do a video for the duster myself, but I can’t say yet whether I will for sure.

      One tip I can give for how the duster and the vest “hang” is yarn choice – I usually use thin, natural fiber yarns for these. Acrylics or thicker wools are not usually good at getting the drape right.

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  2. Hey there! I’m absolutely in love with the mandala pattern, and it’s my first big project (Boy, was it ever a task to take on, but I’m enjoying it.) But, I have myself to round 14, and every time I do it, I suddenly wind up with a very tight round that sort of makes a jellyfish shape. I know it’s an easy enough round, I’m just not sure what I’ve got going on, or how to fix it. I’ve even given the video a good watch, and even though I copy it, I seem to still have the same problem. It’s almost like I don’t have enough chains to make it the right diametre.

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      • I am using a 5.75 hook as it seemed to be all that I could find in the 5 region. My yarn, and I realized after I bought my pretty colours that it was the wrong weight, is Red Hearts Soft yarn, weight 4. That all might be my problem, but up until this point it hasn’t given me any troubles. I really appreciate you getting back to me. It, makes working through the pattern seem so much more worth it to know there is someone who cares to help with their work.

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      • No problem at all! πŸ™‚ Probably good that your hook is just a little bigger than the recommended because that yarn will likely gauge differently, but since it hasn’t caused any problems so far my suggestion is to double check all of your stitch counts in the last few rounds if you haven’t already. Also, have you worked any “extra” rounds? Those are the ones specifically marked as extra rounds for sizing up in the pattern, so if you haven’t encountered any so far then don’t worry about that. If your stitch counts are on target, is it possible to send me a photo through e-mail or my Facebook page? I can take a look and try to find the problem visually (often pretty helpful when someone is stuck on a round like this)

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      • I’ve been on target so far, in terms of stitch counts, but with some adamant stubbornness, I may have managed to fix it. It’s not curling in so hard on itself, but I also loosened my stitches up, and tried chaining one extra on the areas I’d be adding scallops in on the next round. I assume that that wouldn’t make too much trouble for me, in the long run? I can definitely send some pictures along though.

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      • As far as pattern repeats go, you should be fine to go ahead and add the scallops to the widened chain spaces for the next round and not have any problems, hopefully that works well for your gauge! If you want I can take a look at pictures of that round just to see if there is anything more I can suggest that might be helpful just in case- you can send them to moralefiber(at)yahoo.com or to my messenger on my business FB page:
        http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber
        πŸ™‚

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  3. Hello! I’m trying to make your scrappy granny shawl and I feel like I must be doing something wrong but I can’t figure it out. I’ve only done 6 rows but the top of it is curving up a lot. It’s not straight or even near straight (which I could live with). I tried re-doing it twice making sure to crochet looser but it’s still curving up. Is this normal? Will it straighten out as I get further and the shawl gets heavier? Thanks so much!

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    • Hi there! The Granny Shawl should have a gentle “bow” curve to the widest or top edge of the piece that will look more severe in the first few rows before more weight is added. This curve should have the apex higher that the edge corners of the same side when allowed to lay naturally – in other words the top should be a loose curve not a “tight” one – I hope that makes sense! If this curve is too severe, the cure would be to crochet your chains tighter.

      If your curve is the opposite – too tight compared to the bottom – you should crochet your chains looser. Does that make sense? If not, you can send me a picture of your piece via e-mail (moralefiber(at)yahoo.com) or through my Facebook page – http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber
      and I can definitely help you figure out what’s going on! πŸ™‚

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      • Thank you!! I re-started again and got a few rows further and it’s looking a bit better. It’s nice to know it’s supposed to have some kind of curve. Also thank you for taking the time to help people with your patterns! πŸ˜€

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  4. Hello Regina,
    I’ve purchased your wonderful pattern for the Lotus Mandala Duster. I am making sort of a combo of different stitches from 2 other patterns for the circle section and going to finish with the rest of your duster pattern. My question for you is could you please tell me how many inches across is your circle section? I’m also on Ravelry if you would like to check my project page…
    Thanx so much!
    Tina

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    • Hi Tina! If you mean how many inches is the entire body of the duster (which is a big circle) those measurements (in radius & diameter) can be found in the notes at the beginning of the pattern. If you meant how many inches is the central mandala motif (which I usually make a different color than the rest of the duster), it is approximately 19-20″ in diameter πŸ™‚ Sounds like an interesting project – I’d love to check it out on ravelry!

      Liked by 1 person

      • Hi Regina,
        Thanx for the fast reply! ahhaha, I should’ve asked about the central motif! Silly me! Yes that is what I was asking about. That helps me immensely!!
        Yes, feel free to check it out. You can find me by using the first part of my e-mail address. Have yourself a great one! πŸ˜‰

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  5. Hi Regina! I love your patterns and I purchased the mandala top but I can not understand the way to put both sides together. Do you have video instructions for this top and for the sleeves? I’m tyring to do it but I got stuck in round 10. Let me know. Thank you!

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    • Hi Paula! Unfortunately you do need a Tunisian hook for the fantasy hat pattern because you will be keeping multiple stitches on the hook so you’ll need the long hook shaft and the stopper on the end that is featured in Tunisian hooks. I have used a regular hook with a cork on the end to make smaller projects, such as washcloths, but the hood is too big for that method.

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      • Just ran across these comments and want to mention using double ended crochet hooks for Tunisian work. You have to use two strands of yarn for it to work but I love it, not being physically able to work a long hook full of fabric. There are YouTube videos easily searchable. The very best hooks ever for this are addi doubled ended hooks. A bit of work to find them but they are available and relatively inexpensive. The engineering on them is great. Happy hooking!

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  6. i need help in understanding this pattern it says purl in the first vertical bar (holding the yarn in back of work pull up 2 lps ? in the afghan st . purl next 2 st across huh i know how to do purl stitch and i no how to do afghan st but it says pull up 2 lps

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  7. Hey there! I’m having a hard time figuring out step 25 of the 2.0 version of the lotus duster. The step says to sc in ch-1 spaces, but there are ch-3 spaces in step 24, with only one ch-1 right before the hdc to connect to the beginning ch-3. Where are those sc stitches supposed to go? Thanks for the help and thanks for sharing this amazing pattern!

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    • Hi Ashley! To elongate the hood, you should add a few rows of regular stitching (not increasing at the ends but just working a TSS in every stitch) for each row that you increase. So that would look something like: increase on the ends for a row, work 2 rows without increases, increase on the ends, 2 rows without etc…
      That’s the method I use for the pointed part of my Trickster Hood pattern, which is the “deluxe” version of the free Tunisian Fantasy Hood pattern. If you are interested in working from that pattern, it can be found in my Etsy shop or Ravelry store – but of course you can do the alteration I described on the free pattern and get something similar πŸ™‚

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    • Hi there! Good news is that it’s totally normal to have a bulge at the decrease – it may look more or less dramatic depending on the yarn you’re using, but if you want to minimize the appearance of that, you can take the scarf when you are finished and gently stretch it from end to end, then spread it out on a blocking board wet it down with a spray bottle and let air dry. That will help settle everything out nicely πŸ™‚

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      • After looking over my piece, I found a way to get rid of the bulge entirely without affecting the integrity of the pattern. I started doing a return pass decrease where the stitches naturally separate on the hook. It looks a little something like this: Yo, pull thru 1 loop, *yo, pull thru 2 loops* repeat 9 times, dec, *yo, pull thru 2 loops* repeat 11 times, dec, *yo, pull thru 2 loops* repeat 11 times. I think that’s right, I’m not very good at writing patterns.

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  8. I want to make the Lotus Duster, how many extra rows did you add to make it that long? I do understand the need to increase also, I am just trying to figure out for length

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    • Hi Lisa! Almost all of the dusters I have made have followed the Lotus Duster pattern and don’t have any extra rows (except for the red one – that one was done a little differently.) Which one were you looking at in particular?

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  9. I am absolutely in love with the Lotus Duster and just purchased your pattern. I very much want to create one close to the original variegated hues of purple/beige/blue that you created. Would you mind telling me the colors and yarn you used? I know you stated it was re-purposed yarn. What I am trying to figure out is where in the instructions you changed thread color. The medallion looks like one variegated skein color with maybe a solid beige, a solid light purple and a solid dark purple used on the rest of the duster. If I knew what rows you changed thread color I could find a compatible yarn to make mine with.

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      • I will go ahead and post the changes for that one so you have them but if you were thinking of a different one just let me know πŸ™‚

        Yarns used: Color A – handspun,variegated yarn in dark purple, light purple, light blue, and light sea green
        Color B – Recycled cotton/wool blend Sweater yarn in beige/taupe color
        Color C – #2 weight cotton blend commercial yarn Bernat Cotton-ish in “Coffee Filter” (this yarn has been discontinued unfortunately)

        Start with Color A, work Color A through Rnd 15. Switch to Color B
        Work Color B from Rnd 16 through Rnd 24. Switch to Color C
        Work Color C from Rnd 25 through Rnd 32. Switch to Color A
        Work Color A for Rnd 33 and 34 only. Switch to Color B.
        Work Color B for Rnds 35 and 36 only. Switch to Color C
        Work Color C for final round.

        Sleeves are worked in Color B except for the final couple rows of dc on the trim, which I use colors A and B for an accent πŸ™‚

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  10. Thank you so very much. I am currently finishing up a small child circle sweater and will start this one upon completion of it. I will spend some time in my favorite yarn shop finding alternate yarn for the discontinued color.

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  11. I am working on your Stevie Duster. It is a beautiful pattern. I am having a little trouble though. Apparently you are much smaller than I, so I need to make some adjustments. You wrote that from arm hole to arm hole measured 13. Mine measures 26, so I need to make it larger. Do I crochet more rows before beginning my arm holes, or do I just begin the arm holes on the indicated row and widen the distance between them? But if I do the latter, it seems the arm holes would be placed farther down on the duster. Anyway, if you can help with additional row count, or any further directions, I would so much appreciate it.

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    • Hi Regina. It’s me again. I guess I should mention I’m working from the old pattern. I didn’t realize there was an updated one until last night. I’m curgently at the beginning of Row 21.

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      • Oh good, that was my next question! lol. I would recommend adding rounds both before and after the armhole to adjust the size. The easiest option to do this is to switch to the new pattern, the Lotus Duster 2.0. You can do this without losing ALL of your work, and it will make it much easier to add rounds. You can use all of your rounds previously from the old pattern up to round 13. From there, the Large options in the new pattern (written & labeled as “Extra Rnd 13.X”, Extra Rnd 20.X”, etc) add rows before and after the armholes. These optional rounds can even be repeated MORE times than the pattern says, if you’d like to increase the size further than the Large (measurements for the final Large are listed at the top of the pattern). That way, when you move the armholes further apart, it won’t off-balance the piece.

        Some of the rounds can be repeated more than others (since it’s a circle, if the rounds are not increasing they can only be repeated a few times before the circle starts to buckle). Here’s a quick guide:

        Extra Rounds 13.1 & 13.2 – Add extra rounds here in pattern, such that Rnds 13.3 & 13.4 have increases in the 26th st and 27th st respectively, adding as many rounds as you want as long as you stay in pattern with the increases

        Extra Rounds 17. 1 & 20.1 – each of these rounds can be repeated as written, but only a limited amount of times before the circle stops laying flat because there are no increases in these rounds.

        Extra Rnd 31.1 – can be repeated a few times

        Sleeves Step 1 – can work 4 dc’s to each ch space in the sleeve instead of 3 (as for Large), keep number of dc’s in the chain stitches the same

        I hope that is helpful and if you have any other questions don’t hesitate to ask! πŸ™‚

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  12. Thank you so much! That is what I will do. I am making it for my daughter, who is my size, and then my youngest daughter, who is close to your size, wants one. It is such a beautiful pattern, and I’m a huge stevie fan. ThanKS again and I will send pics.

    Heather

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  13. Hi Regina.
    Have another question about the Stevie pattern. On the old pattern, Rnds 23 & 24 call for 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in same st, sk 2 sps. The new one calls for ch3 and sk 3 sts. I am using the new pattern and making it in the larger size. Also, I like the more ruffled pattern. So my question is, should I use Rnds 23 & 24 from the old pattern or from the new?

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    • Good question! If you like the more ruffled version, you can use the old pattern after your armhole rounds have been worked, but you’ll want to add some extra rounds in the mesh portion of the pattern (where there is a single crochet, then a chain length, then another single crochet) to keep it a large size πŸ™‚

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      • 3-4 should be good, I would do one extra for each time the number goes up, for example the first part of the mesh is a (sc, ch-4) repeat on rounds 25-26, so add an extra round to that section doing a sc, ch-4 rpt. Then the next section (rnds 27-30) is the sc, ch-5 repeat, so add an extra round there with the ch-5 repeat. When you get to the sc, ch-6 repeat on Rnd 31, you can add an extra round of that and if you still think it needs extra length, another round of the sc, ch-6. I think that should get you the extra length without affecting the ruffle of the circle πŸ™‚

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  14. Thank you for such a detailed explanation. That makes perfect sense! I can’t wait to see my finished piece. It is coming along beautifully!

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  15. I am making your market bag. Could you tell me the approximate size? And if I want to make it larger should I just add rounds? Thanks for the help.
    Carolyn

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    • Hi Carolyn! I can’t seem to locate the original to measure, but I would estimate the bottom circle comes out somewhere around 7 – 9 “, which makes a smallish bag about 12-13” tall when finished. If you want to increase the width, you can keep adding in-pattern increases to the bottom circle before working the mesh rounds πŸ™‚

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