Though I’ve mostly drifted away from doing collections of themed patterns on the blog, I had to come out of retirement when I saw a few new Krampus fiber art goodies floating around the internet this season!
This fun and silly tradition has gained so much popularity in the United States recently, and as I mentioned in my original Krampus Hat post, my hometown hosts one of the most established Krampus Parades in the country every year. I’m proud to know some of the awesome people who help put it on!
I didn’t get to make the parade this year, so in compensation I’m offering a dose of Krampus via the awesome patterns and projects that I’ve spied recently: enjoy the Krampus Collection, with the links to the original artists and patterns below!
Krampus Hat by Morale Fiber:
Of course, I’m going to go ahead and get myself out of the way here! This is my Krampus Hat pattern from a few years ago, which actually was originally a goat/lamb hat pattern before it got a makeover! This super thick textured hat is achieved by making tons of tiny chain loops – a process you can see via my Youtube demo video. You can find the pattern for FREE on my blog here.
2. Krampus by Christina Staley
This AWESOME Krampus amigurumi figure is crocheted with worsted weight yarn and comes out to be an impressive 20″ tall! He has all the extras included, like chains, scary tongue, and sack for collecting naughty children – you can get the pattern via Ravelry here.
3. Krampus Hat by Linsday Scarey
One for the bistitchuals out there! This gorgeous and classy Krampus hat uses multi-strand knitting (something I’ve always been too intimidated to try) to create a ring of prancing christmas monsters around the crown of this superb and comfy looking beanie. Pattern is available for FREE via Ravelry here.
4. Krampus Christmas Ornament by Ann D’Angelo
Love Krampus but don’t have a lot of extra crafting time on your hands? This little amigurumi ornament can grace your tree in no time, and the pattern is available for just a couple bucks from Ravelry here. I love his cranky little face! The pattern even includes little “victims” – adorable 🙂
5. Krampus by Sonia Childers
You guys, I almost peed my pants in excitement when I saw this awesome Krampus hat by Sonia Childers in her Ravelry Store. Look at the awesomeness! It even has a beard! And a nose warmer! She has a bunch of other amazing hat patterns as well, but I really would love to make this one sometime, and even maybe mesh some of her elements with some from my Krampus hat pattern – so cool Sonia! You rock!
6. Gruss Vom Krampus by Stephanie Pokorny
Last but not least (and unfortunately not a pattern) is the incredible Gruss vom Krampus costume made by Stephanie Pokorny of the inimitable Crochetverse. Guys, look at those teeth. Most Krampus patterns are kinda cute too but this one actually gives me the willies, which is the highest accomplishment a Krampus crochet project can achieve in my opinion! You can find the original post for this project on Facebook here, and you should definitely like and follow the Crochetverse page if you haven’t already because she does incredible stuff like this ALL. THE. TIME.
I hope this collection inspires you to crochet something awesome, or at least to not be too naughty this season 😉 Thanks for visiting!
Good morning! I’m mostly recovered from my whirlwind trip to The Farm for their annual Farm School Holiday Bazaar ❤ I had an amazing time vending and sharing my love of all things fiber art with the other vendors and shoppers, plus some bonus friend fun with my darling hosts ❤
This little blog blurb is mostly an update on what’s occupying my design radar at the moment. Having finished up the Tree of Life and Embla designs, I’m ready to work on the handful of half-finished new projects I have lying around. And maybe hack away at some of the ones that have been on the back burner for like, um, years.
It’s a hard life, creating every day! Just kidding, it’s awesome 😉
The next big thing on the map is completing the video tutorial for the Lotus Mandala Duster. Parts 1 and 2 were released a month or two ago, so I’d like to get the rest finished up as soon as possible since many people have asked for the next installment! With the holidays approaching, it might be slow going, but it’s on my list for sure 🙂
I’m also in the midst of working on a design that is inspired by the popularity of the Krampus Hat free crochet pattern. The unique and over-the-top nature of that hat really captured people’s imaginations and I’d love to create something else that’s similarly “out there”, using techniques that I developed working on a custom hat in 2018.
That bespoke piece was made to mimic the client’s custom-designed video game character, and it was quite a journey to develop and I really loved pushing myself to get it as accurate as possible. It gave me SO many new ideas 😉 You can find the project page for this custom hat on Ravelry.
The new crazy hat design looks nothing like the custom made one pictured above, but I will still be using the Krampus Hat format for the base of the new Creature ❤ Here’s a very unhelpful sneak peek:
And speaking of Ravelry, I’ve been doing some major updating on my Projects page, uploading lost projects from years of crocheting. My goal was to thoroughly update everything in my portfolios from 2015-2018 before 2019 ended, and I’m just about done. Check out my Ravelry Projects page for 130+ creations by yours truly ❤
I guess this counts as my end-of-the-year wrap up post, so I’ll go ahead and say this:
Fiber art is my passion, and teaching it and talking about it is my dream job. To everyone who has liked, commented, shared, bought, supported, or even just smiled because of what I do, I thank you. My gratitude is without limit.
The following is a bit of an emotional reflection, sans any crochet instruction – I don’t usually share in this very personal way but I had some thoughts I needed to get down. So if you’re interested, read on ❤
A month ago, I was staying at my parents’ place to dog-sit while they were gallivanting around the Grand Canyon. I had all the materials to complete the patterns I was working on – the Tree of Life dreamcatcher mandala and the Embla Vest – and a bunch of free time to do it in. Until the call came in.
I’d lost another friend. One I’d just seen not a week ago. He died overnight of asthma-related breathing complications, three weeks from his birthday.
Grief seems to have been my companion this summer. In June, a friend from high school had passed away of suicide – a friend that I hadn’t seen in years, but nonetheless occupied my memory as my closest adolescent bestie, the girl I spent countless hours laughing and crying with. The distance of time between us was no real distance at all, and I grieved for Michelle.
Later in the summer, my hometown was rocked by controversy at the weekly community Farmer’s Market. An Anti-Fascist action group released leaks from an internet hate forum called Identity Evropa, which revealed with certainty that one of the farmer’s market stalls in Bloomington was operated by Neo-Nazis. The community was in uproar and the market was shut down because the protests became too dangerous. I walked the aisles of the market myself and saw the armed skinheads waiting to pick a fight.
When the market temporarily closed, the fear was brought to my front door. My then-workplace, the local co-op grocery store, decided to host an alternative market for the two weeks the official market was shut down because of safety concerns. The turmoil in town was at its peak, and during this time several public shootings occurred across the country. Customers even pointed out to me, a produce clerk, that I should have an escape plan.
I began to fear for my safety and then something very real hit me – the notion that all over the country, other people feel like this all of the time and I, with my unasked for privilege, was only now getting a taste. I was sick with anxiety at the time and I now realize that what I was feeling was in fact grief. Grief for the death of my worldview in which my town (despite its problems) was a good, safe, open-minded place to be. Grief because I’d read the leaks from the forum, and the poisonous hate speech was unbearable. Grief because I’d never had to feel this unsafe before and yet some people grow up with this danger in their bones.
Things settled, for a while, after the markets resumed (there are still yet protests happening there) and I left that job, and life went on, and I decided to focus more on my business. That dog-sitting gig was the perfect opportunity to hammer out my new pattern, and get some pretty shots of it against the background of my parents’ deciduous autumn landscape.
Until the call came in. On a Monday morning, I found out I’d lost another friend and grief was to stay by my side. And here it’s been – for a month – saturating everything. At first I pushed through, mechanically figuring the pattern numbers as if it was the only thing in the world, the only the I wanted to do was force it to make sense. Make everything make sense.
As I wrestled with it, I was frustrated and blocked up and felt at times like I was drowning in emotions from the trauma, other times I felt nothing. I latched onto other projects, creating visions in which “everything was beautiful and nothing hurt”.
Grief is a funny thing. It’s slippery, and sometimes insidious and it latched onto old wounds, causing them to bubble up from below and before I could really grasp why, I was stricken with sadness from past abuses, guilt from ancient misdeeds, and doubt that I could ever emerge.
It’s been and continues to be difficult. But the grief I’ve been experiencing has also given me positive perspectives. My friend group, who all knew Isaac, have pulled together for each other in their strength. I’m incredibly, unbelievably lucky to be here on Earth for the time that I am, and to know those shining souls that I know, and to have this platform to spill my thoughts, to people who I’ve never met but whom I can only hope feel lucky too.
The Embla Vest was so named months before my friend died, but the name is a nugget of hope. Embla was the first woman in Viking mythology, her life begun with breath on an old, fallen tree. From the dead, twisted driftwood she emerged to start humanity. The old Norse notion of time is not linear, or even circular – it’s a spiral. So all things come to an end, as they naturally should, and all things begin once more, to spiral out as they will.
It’s a really pretty philosophy. It’s a neat little metaphor, wrapped in a hopeful package. Right now, it seems too cute to deal with the messy and unfathomable world of death and grief. Embla, emerges from the trees? And starts life over again, like your favorite track on an album?
I wish it were that easy. But then again, if you’ve ever actually been lost in trees, you may know that emergence isn’t easy at all. You trip on unseen undergrowth. You get smacked in the face by branches. Sometimes, you wander into a thicket with no way through and have to turn back. But when the world is ending, you have no choice. Driven like clockwork, Embla must emerge because emergence is what she does. Time drives the motion of the spiral and Embla emerges until the end comes for her, too.
And at the end of the world (Ragnorak), the sun gives birth to a daughter, and Ask and Embla’s children (humanity) survive, and the world starts over again like your favorite track on an album, and new humans emerge, and time spirals outward.
P.S – If you are interested in Norse mythology, I can’t recommend this book enough – it’s a copy of the myths I’ve had since I was 13. They are well researched and beautifully told in narrative format. “The Norse Myths” by Kevin Crossley-Holland
It can be awfully hard to pinpoint where an idea began it’s journey toward fruition. I’ve wanted to design my own tree of life motif for years, and finally picked up a hook to start experimenting with it just a few months ago. I vaguely thought about adding the motif to the middle of the vest design I was working on, and so I tinkered until this was possible and set down a general framework for the pattern. Today I finally finish this saga, with the premier of the Embla Vest crochet pattern – available as a downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Store ❤
During the making of this pattern, life happened, and then death happened. In the course of this, the Embla Vest became very personal to me (more so than other designs, although it’s hard to judge) and getting through the process of creating this pattern became a journey of emergence. I’m so glad I’m here now! Ha 🙂
The vest design itself was inspired by several stylistic sources including steampunk waistcoats and some of my personal crochet heroes’ designs, and I made SO MANY of them before I settled on what looked accurate to the vision in my mind’s eye. The resulting design is the new award winner for Most Drafts Crocheted, a title formerly held by the Ida Shawl (worth it in both cases!)
Yes, there was struggle and heartache. Through it all, I kept creating – because there isn’t any other way. I hope you love this design as much as I do, and I hope you make it for someone you love and they love it, too ❤ Read on for the full details!
The Embla Vest is a playful and versatile garment inspired by the Norse creation myth, in which the gods breath life into a dead tree to create the first woman, named Embla. I drew from many different design elements to create this unique and customizable piece of wearable crochet art.
This circular vest is worked in the round, featuring a stunning Tree of Life motif in the center and blends beautifully outwards in #4 worsted weight variegated yarn to make the perfect lightweight layering piece.
In addition to the FIVE sizes (XS-XL) this vest features lots of customizing options, including instructions for a solid back (alternative or in addition to the Tree of Life), sleeves, and hood! Create a structured, waistcoat look by working the buttons instructions, or make a fairy tail cardigan featuring a lace-up front. All sizes and styles fit with a wrapping collar, a dainty pointed back, and front panels that draw away in a figure taper.
Materials: 4.5 mm hook Lion Brand Shawl in a Cake or Shawl in a Ball (#4 weight, 150 g, 481 yds) Main Vest: 1, 1, 1, 2, 2 skeins Hood: ½ skein Sleeves: 1 skein Tree Motif – 50 yds Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (#4 weight, 100 g / 186 yds) Scissors Tapestry Needle Stitch Markers
Sizes and Finished Measurements: X-Small (XS), Small (SM), Medium (MD), Large (LG), X-Large (XL) Finished measurements are approximate Bust: 30”, 34”, 38”, 42”, 46” Length (back collar to bottom point): 19”, 21”, 23”, 25”, 27” Arm Opening (circumference): 9”, 10”, 11”, 12”, 13”
All instructions are written in English in U.S terminology.
In the outdoor photoshoot I am proud to be sporting 100% handmade/small business apparel – here’s where it’s all from! Floral Berry Crown: @daizel_doozle Hi-Lo Scrunchie Dress: Elven Forest Tie-Dye Yoga Pants: Dimples Dyes Macrame necklace & bracelet: Selinofos Art
This post will be a quick one, so I can get back to my lazy Sunday afternoon sloth-fest, but I’ve managed to create a video tutorial for the first 6 rounds of the Tree of Life Mandala pattern and wanted to share it as soon as I could 🙂
This video is full-length up to Round 6, so that all the intricate workings of the branches are available to see in real time. Since some bits of it are a little complex, I knew that a video would be eventually if not immediately necessary. I hope it’s helpful!
If you’ve been keeping up with Morale Fiber lately you’ll notice that videos have quickly become a regular feature and I hope to continue that trend – so like and subscribe to my channel if you don’t want to miss anything 🙂
Who doesn’t love trees?! Besides being one of the most successful life forms on Earth, trees are the lungs of our planet. Majestic and sometimes dangerous they are also, but I think one of the main reasons we humans have such a symbolic attachment to the Tree as a concept is that we tend to project ourselves onto them.
With their roots-like-feet, their strong trunk torsos, and their reaching arms of branches, it’s easy to turn them into a metaphor against which we contrast our own sense of existence. They grow taller as they age, they occur in all environments, they group themselves together, and recent science has even discovered that they communicate with each other.
For me, it has always seemed natural to speak with trees. And yeah… to hug them. 🙂 I’ve always felt that they had a Presence which ought to always be acknowledged and I’ve been drawn to tree and forest imagery my whole life. I was stoked when I found this adorable crocheted Tree of Life motif from 365 Crochet and instantly tried it out as a feature of one of my pixie belts. It’s quite an excellent little free pattern!
The Tree of Life concept occurs in several cultural stories. My familiarity with it came originally from Yggdrasil, the World Tree of Norse mythology that holds all the worlds from its roots to its branches. Since I’m so attached to this symbolism, I wanted to attempt my own crocheted version of the Tree of Life.
The Tree of Life mandala features an intricate central tree motif, worked in the round using a variety of crochet stitches. The intertwining branches are worked in layers, with double-treble stitches criss-crossing and forming the signature woven look of the Tree of Life symbolism. Though it looks complex, the central motif is easy when taken step by step, especially since the tutorial includes 50+ detailed tutorial photos with figure references to the written pattern!
Once I had honed my Tree pattern to satisfaction, I realized the mandala version would make a perfect dreamcatcher-style wall hanging and set about to providing this FREE tutorial for the project! You can also buy the downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF file for this crochet pattern from my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Pattern Store.
I’ve got a few more concepts cooked up for this pretty little piece in the future that I’m very excited about 😉 So be sure to subscribe to my blog and follow me on Facebook!
Tree of Life Mandala Wall Hanging
Materials: 4.50 mm hook #4 worsted weight yarn in solid color – I used Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton #3 or #4 weight yarn in accent color – I used King Cole Riot DK for the rainbow Tree and Malabrigo Rios for the autumnal Tree. 1 14” bamboo or wood hoop (I used an embroidery hoop from the hobby store) Scissors & Tapestry needle
Stitches and Techniques: Magic Ring – A short tutorial can be found under this pattern on my blog. Hdc – half double crochet Ch – chain Sl st – Slip Stitch Sc – Single crochet Dc – Double crochet Tr – treble crochet (YO x 2, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 loops x 3) Dtr – double treble crochet (YO x 3, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop. YO and draw through 2 loops x 4)
Gauge: Not critical. The trunk of the tree should be about 1.25 inches in width and the tree itself should be about 4.5 inches tall from root to top branch after Round 3.
Notes: The outer yarn used to border the Tree of Life can be #3 or #4 weight. If using a thick and/or stiffer #4 weight, check to make sure your piece isn’t getting too big for the hoop. You may need to omit a round of solid Hdc – the mandala needs to stretch tightly over the hoop once finished.
Make Magic Ring – fig. 1
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first hdc), 12 hdc into the
ring – fig.2. Join with a sl st in the first hdc of the round. Tighten
the ring to close – fig.3
Rnd 2: Sl st in the next
st, 1 sc in the next st. (1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc) in the next st – fig. 4.
1 sc in the next st, sl st in ea of the next 2 sts – fig. 5. 1 sc in the
next st, hdc in the next st. (1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc) in the next st. 1 hdc in the
next st, 1 sc in the next st. Sl st in the next st. – fig. 6
Rnd 3: LIMBS: Sl
st in the next 3 sts. – fig 7. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st – fig 8.
Ch 2 – fig 9, 1 dc in the side of last dc. Ch 3 – fig 10. Slip
stitch back down the side of the dc’s. (1st limb made) – fig 11.
Sl st in the next st. *Ch 2 – fig 12, dc in the same st. (Ch 2, dc in
the side of last dc) twice – fig 13. Ch 3. Slip stitch back down the
sides of the dc’s, sl st in next st. – fig 14. (2nd limb
made). Repeat from * for 3rd limb – fig. 15. Ch 2, 1 dc in
the same st. Ch 2, 1 dc in the side of the last dc. Ch 3 – fig 16. Slip
stitch back down the side of the dc’s (4th limb made) – fig 17.
Sl st in the next 5 sts. – fig 18.
Rnd 3 Ct’d: ROOTS: *Ch 2, dc in the same st. – fig 19, Ch 3 – fig 20, slip st down the side of the dc – fig 21. Sl st in the next st. Rpt from * 3 more times. – figs 22-24. Sl st in the next 3 sts.
Rnd 4: Ch 5 – fig 25, sc in the ch-3 loop at the top of the 1st limb – fig 26. Ch 3 – fig 27, double treble (dtr) in the middle of the 2nd limb – fig 28–29. Ch 3 – fig 30, dtr in the middle of the 1st limb – fig 31. Ch 3, sc in the ch-3 loop at the top of the 2nd limb – fig 32. Ch 3, dtr in the middle of the 3rd limb – fig 33. Ch 3, dtr in the middle of the 2nd limb – figs 34-35. Ch 3, sc in the ch-3 loop at the top of the 3rd limb. Ch 3 – fig 36, dtr in the middle of the 4th limb – fig 40. Ch 3, dtr in the middle of the 3rd limb. Ch 3 – fig 41, sc in the ch-3 loop at the top of the 4th limb. Ch 5 – fig 42, sl st one st away from the base of the 4th limb. Sl st in the next 3 sts – fig 43.
Fig. 28 – YO 3 times
to begin dtr
Fig. 29 – insert hook
into the middle of 2nd limb, draw up a loop. (YO and draw through 2
loops) 4 times. Dtr made.
Rnd 5: Sl st up the ch sts on the side of the 1st
root. Sl st into the ch-3 loop at the top – fig 44. Ch 3, (counts as
first hdc + ch-1), hdc in the same space – fig 45. (Ch 3, 1 hdc in the
next ch-3 loop. Ch 1, 1 hdc in the same sp) 3 times. Ch 8 – fig 46-47.
(1 dc in the next ch-3 space between branches – fig 48, ch 2, 1 dc in
the same space) 9 times – fig 49. Ch 8. Sl st in the 2nd ch
of beginning ch-3 to join – fig 50.
Rnd 6 (Change color): With new yarn, join in the 5th
ch-2 space of previous round – positioning your hook in the middle of the
branches. Ch 2 – fig 51 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same
space. (4 hdc in the next ch-2 space) 4 times – fig 52. 10 hdc in the next ch-8 space – fig 53.
(1 hdc in the ch-1 space of the next root. 3 hdc in the next ch-3 space- fig
54.) 3 times. 1 hdc in the next ch-1 space. 10 hdc in the next ch-8 space –
fig 55. (4 hdc in the next ch-2 space) 4 times. 3 hdc in the next space,
join with a sl st to the first hdc of the rnd – fig 56. – 70 sts
Rnd 7: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), 1 hdc in the same
st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 5 sts. 2 hdc in the next st – fig 57. (1 hdc
in ea of the next 6 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st – fig
58.– 80 sts
Rnd 8: Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc), 1 hdc in the same
st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the
next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – fig 59 –
Rnd 9: Ch 1 (does not count), 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in
ea of the next 7 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2
hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – fig 60 -– 100 sts
Rnd 10: Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch 1). Dc in the same st.
(Sk next 2 sts, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc in the next st) rpt around. Join with a sl st
in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4.
Rnd 11: Sl st to the next ch-2 space. Ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch 2). Dc in the same space. (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc in the next space) around. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. – fig 61.
Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for attaching – fig
62. Weave in other ends.
Attaching & Finishing
Using the long tail left from Round 11, thread yarn on a
tapestry needle. Center your piece inside the hoop – fig 63.
Stitch the piece onto the hoop, making your needle pass
around the hoop and under the last row of the piece, between the dc’s (not the
chain spaces). Work the piece all the way around, adjusting tension and
tightening as needed to create an even appearance. The piece will be stretched!
– fig 64 – 66
To make sure my tension is even, I like to cut another long
strand of thread and go back over the piece in the opposite direction – fig 67.
This is optional.
With new yarn, attach to a ch-2 space on Rnd 11. Working by inserting the hook
under both the chain-2 space and under the hoop, YO and draw up a loop. Work 1
hdc around the hoop and the chain space. The entire border round works around the
hoop – this can be a little tricky at first, but be patient! It gets easier. In
the same chain space, work 1 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 1 dc, and 1 hdc – fig. 68.
Sc between the next pair of dc’s – fig 69. *(1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr,
1 dc, 1 hdc) in the next ch 2 space, 1 sc between the next 2 dc sts. Rpt from *
around. – figs 70-71
Join the final round with a slip stitch in the first hdc. Cut yarn and tie off, weave in all remaining ends. You could also add tassels, fringe, extra leaves (I have a good candidate, a free pattern for leaves), or charms to personalize your new Tree of Life wall hanging!
With my first full length video tutorial under my belt, I forged ahead this week to create Part 2 of the Lotus Mandala series! It went much faster this time, because I had a better idea of how to make the video to flow and therefore (frankly) procrastinated less 😉
Part 2 covers rounds 9-16, which contain some of the most technically difficult rounds and the ones that I get the most questions about – so hopefully it will prove useful.
I am planning on completing this series, creating video tutorials for the rest of the rounds of the Lotus Duster pattern including the sleeves and such, though that might not premier as quickly. I have some really exciting new releases coming soon that I need to finish first!
If you want to make sure you don’t miss anything, hit the follow button on my blog and be sure to like and follow my Facebook Page as well ❤
And now, Part 2!
If you enjoyed this video, like and subscribe to my channel! Besides the Lotus Mandala series, there’s more on the way ❤
And I’d like to take this opportunity to sincerely thank everyone out there who has liked, commented, shared, purchased, and otherwise supported my art. I couldn’t do this without any of you, YOU ARE AWESOME and BEAUTIFUL!
Fur yarn seems to be something I always have a lot of. In addition to using it to trim Trickster Hoods, wacky coats, and Pixie Belts, I also occasionally use it to make costume ears and tails. My first foray into tail making was using crochet, as it was certainly easier for me at the time to deal with the nuisance of all that funky hair using a technique with which I was very confident.
The resulting little fox tail (I call it the chibi tail) was clever, IMHO, made with super soft Lion Brand Romance and ending in a little clip so it could be attached to a belt. But it was a bit stiff, and I decided knitting was really the way to go for these fun and cruelty-free costume elements.
I made a couple more – the tail on the left is made with Lion Brand Fun Fur, knitted to look like a raccoon, the tail on the right is Lion Brand Romance again, in sweet fantastical pastels. Both are stuffed with lightweight polyester fiber stuffing and clippable, like the first, onto belt or pants.
The pastel tail is pretty long, and very slinky and soft. After that one, I went down the rabbit hole. Er, possibly the fox hole.
I had A LOT of Lion Brand Pelt in similar colors. What if I made a really BIG tail, so it would look proportionate to the human body?
So, as you can see, I did that. And this year’s Halloween costume was born. To be specific, I finished the humongous tail less than 24 hours before the costume party! 😀
I dubbed my costume “Forest Witch” but mostly I was referred to as the Squirrel Lady which I am also 100% satisfied with 😉 . This is one of the most handmade of all costumes I’ve ever done, so I’m going to feature some of the elements involved before writing out my notes on making the Tail toward the end of the post – keep reading for the free pattern! You can also favorite this project on Ravelry for reference later.
It was cold and rainy enough the day of the party to wear my super woodsy version of the Boho Fringe Poncho, made with different scrap bulky and super bulky yarns, then trimmed with plain fringe and woven with a super textured handspun art yarn. I also added a leafy drawstring tie to the top of this piece, similar to the one made for the Rhiannon Cowl. I’m so glad to have added this poncho to the ensemble, because it hasn’t really seen the light of day since I made it.
Underneath I wore the dress I had refashioned from a few thrift store pieces – I cut the green top and the brown and purple paisley skirt up joined them using hairpin lace, then added doily accents – all crocheted in gray, upcycled sweater yarn. You can read more about this refashion project here. Layered under the dress is a thrifted skirt that I tie-dyed in browns.
The belt sports several accessories beside the tail – one of them is a crocheted woolen pouch, mounted on loops so that it can slide onto a belt. This pattern is a piece of Lilla Bjorn’s Dandelion Mandala Overlay. The knife is an antique piece made with a real fawn’s hoof found for me by a friend. It’s not handmade by me, it’s just totally wicked so I wanted to mention it 😉
It was terribly overcast all day, so my indoors photoshoot is very dark (and consequently grainy.. just pretend it’s a spooky filter effect, okay?) and you probably can’t see the faux dreads underneath my hair very well, but they are there and I made those too! From Jacob wool, dyed brown and boiled in hot water to felt them making long woolen cords, then attached to and elastic headband and decorated with beads and feathers. The hat on top sports a pair of crocheted fur yarn ears, mounted on an elastic band around the crown of the hat.
The witch hat, unfortunately is not handmade. I attempted to finish the black Hedge Witch Hat for this ensemble in time for the party, but was too busy knitting this big chunky baby…
Speaking of which, how about that tutorial? I’m afraid all I can offer is my notes, since this was not intended to be a full-scale pattern, but it’s pretty straightforward knitting if you can stand trying to see your way around all that fur.
Costume Mega Tail Tutorial
Materials: US Size 9 double pointed knitting needles (1 set) US size 9 circular needles, 24″ Lion Brand Pelt (#5, 50 g / 47 yds) 4 skeins “Sable”, 4 skeins “Fisher” Lion Brand Fun Fur, (#5 bulky, 40 g / 57 yards) 1 skein “Ginger” Lion Brand Romance (#6 super bulky, 50 g / 27 yards) 1 skein “Truffle”, 1 skein “Champagne” (Or, in substitute, around 550 yards total of any fur yarn) Metal clasp ~10-15 oz Polyester Fiberfill batting Scissors and Tapestry needle
With fur yarn and DPNs, Cast On 18 sts. Knitting in the round: Row 1: *K, M1 increase* Rpt around – 27 sts Row 2; *K2, M1 increase* Rpt around – 36 sts Row 3: *K3, M1 increase* Rpt around – 45 sts Row 4: *K4, M1 increase* Rpt around – 54 sts Row 5: *K5, M1 increase* Rpt around – 63 sts Row 6: *K6, M1 increase* Rpt around – 72 sts
Switch to circular needles. Rows 7 – Infinity: Knit around. Change colors when necessary or desired.
I knit this piece to a length of about 55″. When ready to finish off:
Switch back to the Double Pointed needles
3rd to last Row: *K2, K2together decrease* Rpt around. 2nd to last Row: *K1, K2together decrease* Rpt around. Last Row: *K2tog decrease* around. Cut yarn leaving a long piece for sewing. Thread the yarn into a tapestry needle and pass the yarn through each loop on the needles, catching the live stitches on the yarn tail. Once all stitches are threaded, pull the DPNS out and use the thread to cinch the stitches shut. Make some firm weavings across this circle to secure shut, then weave in ends and cut.
To finish the piece, Weave in all yarn ends. I used a wig brush at this stage to brush all the fur loose that had gotten trapped in between stitches to make it thicker and fluffier. Then, take the polyester fiberfill and stuff through the open end. Be careful not to overstuff – it really needs less than you think, and overdoing it will cause the piece to be too stiff and therefore less realistic looking.
Once the piece is stuffed, thread a long piece of fur yarn onto a tapestry needle and sew the open end shut, then sew onto the clasp. I used a pretty small metal lobster style clasp, available with the metal findings in most hobby stores. This allows you to attach the tail to a belt (recommended – it’s heavy) or to pants (works better with smaller ones, but if you’re brave enough…)
One last very necessary addition to this monstrosity is left! Using a crochet hook, I loosely threaded a length of bronze ribbon yarn through the knit stitches toward the end of the tail, weaving in and out all around the circumference, then tying the ends in a knot. After all, I had to have some way to keep this thing from getting super wet and mucky by dragging on the ground!
I used the tied length of ribbon as a handle to maneuver the thing all night (and dance with it – SO MUCH FUN.) Also occasionally to bop people in the face with the fluffyness. When I needed both hands free, I wrapped the ribbon into my belt in the front to secure it.
I probably don’t need to tell you that I had too much fun with it 😉 And I hope you will too, if you decide to make one for yourself ❤ If you have any questions on how I did anything in this semi-slap-dash tutorial thingy, leave me a comment 🙂
P.S – as a big and unintended bonus, post-costume-party this thing turned out to be an excellent body pillow as well, lol!
The Lotus Mandala Duster free crochet pattern (and the offshoot the Lotus Mandala Vest) have remained some of my most popular patterns for years now – and as such, I’ve encountered a lot of questions about this design! I compiled a few of the most common ones here, but I’m happy to answer others that you may have about this or any of my designs, so feel welcome to comment or message me through my Facebook business page 🙂 These questions refer specifically to the Lotus Duster, the Lotus Mandala Vest (a more open and free size garment) has its own FAQ written already here.
How do I make a size larger than a Large?
I don’t have plans to write this pattern for any more sizes as of yet, sorry! So the best way that you could size up this pattern is to work the extra rows given for the size Large, but work them even MORE. So here’s a quick guide for how that might be done. For a larger bust but not necessarily a larger waist, tactics 1,2,3, and 6 would be the most helpful because you’re aiming for a bigger diameter in the circle, not necessarily larger sleeves or shoulders. 🙂
Tips for increasing up from a Large: 1. Extra Rounds 13.1 & 13.2 – Add extra rounds here in pattern, such that Rnds 13.3 & 13.4 have increases in the 26th st and 27th st repectively, adding as many rounds as you want as long as you stay in pattern with the increases
2. Extra Rounds 17. 1 & 20.1 – each of these rounds can be repeated as written, but only a limited amount of times before the circle stops laying flat because there are no increases in these rounds.
3.Extra Rnd 31.1 – can be repeated a few times
4. Sleeves Step 1 – can work 4 dc’s to each ch space in the sleeve instead of 3 (as for Large), keep number of dc’s in the chain stitches the same
5. Armhole Placement – You may want to adjust depending on your back measurement – measure between your shoulderblades for a tighter fit or from armpit to armpit for looser fit. This should match the measurement between the two sleeve yokes (armholes) on the piece – there are notes in the pattern for how to handle custom fit armholes. If you want to size up the armholes themselves, you can add more chain stitches in multiples of three – so you could add 3, 6, or 9 extra chains to each armhole, etc. To keep the ratio correct, skip ONE extra chain space on the row below per every 3 extra chains added to the armhole chain.
6. It can also be helpful to add extra rounds to the part of the garment that is worked only on the top half (Rows 35 & 36) so that you are adding length to the top and sides only (to keep it from getting too long). This one is pretty crucial. If you are wider but shorter than the model (5’8″ or so for the large) You won’t be able to work as many extra rounds because eventually the piece will be dragging the floor.
How do I make this child’s size?
The general layout of the design isn’t really written for children when made with the given yarn and hook size – the central mandala is kind of big, so to size down successfully I recommend working in a smaller yarn weight and hook size. I’ve seen several examples of smaller dusters using #1-#2 weight yarn and smaller hooks, which turned out great. Unfortunately that’s as specific as I can be about that!
What yarns did you use for “this specific” Lotus Duster?
Every duster I have made except the all white one pictured for the Large size below has been made mainly from yarn reclaimed from old sweaters, mixed with some handspun yarns and some scraps of commercial yarns.
The white duster pictured here is made from Premier Cotton Fair as listed in the main pattern.
Unfortunately since I use recycled and handspun for every other duster, there aren’t any commercial yarns I can recommend to use to get the same color scheme. Universal Yarns Bamboo Pop is a good yarn in the same weight that has many color varieties, which I usually point people toward when asked this question 🙂 🙂
Sweater yarns have the advantage of being fairly light and thin while sturdy enough to withstand the tension of the garment. Also, they are cheap and accessible if you have the patience to harvest them. Last but not least, the upcycled cotton threads I get from these secondhand sweaters give the piece a really authentically vintage/retro feel, even though it’s a newly made garment.
Can I use “X” yarn with this pattern / What hook should I use?
The answer to this question always begins with “check your gauge.” Technically you can make any pattern with any size hook and yarn if your gauge matches the gauge given in the pattern. Now, gauge can be tricky and there are other things that contribute to the general look, feel, and function of a handmade garment, but the simplest place to start when asking “can I make it with this yarn and hook?” is to test your gauge.
This pattern works best with #2-#3 weight yarn. I have seen it made with #4 weight, which honestly I don’t prefer but that’s a matter of opinion.
Is there a pattern to make a Hood for the Duster?
Yes! I got many requests after I released the Lotus Duster pattern to create a hood design for it as well, and I finally sat down and designed something this spring – the Lotus Hooded Duster is available for free on my blog, as well as included in a separate PDF in the paid digital version of the Lotus Duster pattern.
UPDATE: The full tutorial is now finished and available from the aforementioned link!
Is this pattern available in other languages?
Currently this pattern is available for free in English (My version, in US terminology) and Dutch – see Dutch translation here via Een Mooi Gebaar, who has translated a few of my other patterns as well! Een Mooi Gebaar Morale Fiber Portal
Portable, printable, ad-free PDF crochet pattern translations are available in the following languages by following the links!
Well, I’m excited to announce that my first full-length video tutorial is underway! Not that I haven’t made videos before, but this is the first time I’ve filmed with the intent of capturing a whole pattern on video. After many moons of wanting to do it, I’ve started the tutorial for the Lotus Mandala Duster design and I have finished Part 1 to share with you today!
I avoided video tutorials for a long time simply because they were a whole new thing that I had to learn. Also, I hate the sound of my own voice 😛 But because I really wanted to bring the Lotus Duster into the reach of people who can only crochet from videos, I bootstrapped up and began this new venture!
The goal of this tutorial is to cover the first 16 rounds of the Lotus Mandala. These first 16 rounds are the exact same instructions, whether you are doing the Lotus Duster or the Lotus Vest (two separate but sister patterns) and are perhaps the most challenging rounds, technically speaking, within the design. So even though the yarn used in the tutorial is for the Duster, you can follow the same instructions through Round 16 if you are working the vest 🙂
Part 1, which I am sharing today, consists of Rounds 1 – 8 of the Lotus Mandala. I do intend on finishing out the Duster in video tutorials in later parts, but we’ll cross that bridge eventually, probably.
So without further ado, here is the Lotus Mandala Video Tutorial Part 1! ❤ Directly below this paragraph you can find links to the patterns mentioned above as well as their related add-ons, frequently asked questions, and tutorial links from the video: