Fandoms come and go for me. If you’ve been reading this blog for long enough, you’ll remember projects, photos and posts inspired by popular media and geek cultures – GOT and Harry Potter and Krampus to name a few! I’ve made Video Game Guys and Coralines and Pikachus for friends that may or may not ever make it on to the blog, and I’ve become fixated on and then subsequently grown out of a number of fandoms myself.
One though, I’ll never grow out of, and that’s Discworld.
If you know, you know. If you don’t, it’s hard to explain! With 40+ Discworld novels spanning a lifetime writing career, British fantasy author Terry Pratchett first appeared on my bookshelf when I was an adolescent. His combination of comedic fantasy and humanitarian social commentary hooked me immediately and I’ve been reading and re-reading his books ever since.
So when I had a couple crochet hat pattern ideas for the blog, I thought it would be fun to match them to two of my favorite characters from the Disc: Part 1 is Tiffany Aching, Witch of the Chalk!
Read on for more info, or save this project by favoriting the Ravelry Project page!
Tiffany is a young heroine from Pratchett’s YA Discworld series who runs the dairy on her shepherding family’s farm, which she is driven to defend (with a frying pan) when the Queen of the Otherworld crosses over and steals her little brother. Tiffany’s ambitions to become a witch are helped by her tiny, drunk, warlike pictsie friends the Nac Mac Feegle, and her adventures are chronicled through the 5 book series which Pratchett completed just before he died in 2015.
This pattern was started just from a love of making witch hats – I happen to have another similar hat pattern for free, the Hedge Witch Hat, available on my blog on in PDF format! This time, though, I wanted something taller and pointier, something really traditionally witchy, with a structured brim and a severe point.
Since this is in a traditional style, I’m keeping it simple and calling it the Witch Hat 🙂
Witch Hat
This traditionally shaped witch hat uses tight single crochet and gradual increases to create a tapering point perfect for any aspiring magic wielder. The pattern includes instructions for wiring the brim of the hat as well!
Materials:
3.25 mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)
#4 Worsted Weight Yarn – Caron Simply Soft is pictured here (300 yards)
~46″ of flexible craft wire + wire cutters (optional, for brim)
Scissors, tapestry needle, stitch markers
Gauge: 5 sts + 5 rows = 1″
Notes: Ch – 1 at the beginning of the round to start. Beginning Ch-1 does not count as first sc.
Instructions:
Make Magic Ring.
Row 1: 6 sc into the ring. Sl st in the 1st sc of the round to join. – 6 sts
Round 2: 1 sc in the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the round to join. – 7 sts
Round 3: 1 sc in the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the round to join. – 8 sts
Round 4: 1 sc in the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 9 sts
Round 5: 1 sc in the next 8 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 10 sts
Round 6: 1 sc in the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 11 sts
Round 7: 1 sc in the next 10 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 12 sts
Round 8: 1 sc in the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 13 sts.
Rnd 9: 1 sc in the next 12 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 14 sts
Rnd 10: 1 sc in the next 13 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 15 sts
Rnd 11: 1 sc in the next 14 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 16 sts
Rnd 12: 1 sc in the next 15 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 17 sts
Rnd 13: 1 sc in the next 16 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Sl st in the first sc of the rnd to join. – 18 sts
Rnd 14: (1 sc in the next 8 sts, 2 sc in the next st) rpt the parentheses 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 20 sts
Rnd 15: (1 sc in the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 22 sts
Rnd 16: (1 sc in the next 10 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts
Rnd 17: (1 sc in the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 26
Rnd 18: (1 sc in the next 12 sts. 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 28 sts
Rnd 19: (1 sc in the next 13 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 30 sts
Rnd 20: (1 sc in the next 14 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 32 sts
Rnd 21: (1 sc in the next 15 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 34 sts
Rnd 22: (1 sc in the next 16 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts
Rnd 23: (1 sc in the next 17 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join witha sl st. – 38 sts
Rnd 24: (1 sc in the next 18 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 40 sts
Rnd 25: (1 sc in the next 19 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 42 sts
Rnd 26: (1 sc in the next 20 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 44 sts
Rnd 27: (1 sc in the next 21 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join witha sl st. – 46 sts
Rnd 28: (1 sc in the next 22 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 2 times. Join with a sl st. – 48 sts
Rnd 29: (1 sc in the next 15 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 51
Rnd 30: (1 sc in the next 16 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 54
Rnd 31: (1 sc in the next 17 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 57
Rnd 32: (1 sc in the next 18 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 60
Rnd 33: (1 sc in the next 19 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 63 sts
Rnd 34: (1 sc in the next 20 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts
Rnd 35: (1 sc in the next 21 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 69 sts
Rnd 36: (1 sc in the next 22 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts
Rnd 37: (1 sc in the next 23 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 75 sts
Rnd 38: (1 sc in the next 24 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts
Rnd 39: (1 sc in the next 25 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 81 sts
Rnd 40: (1 sc in the next 26 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts
Rnd 41: (1 sc in the next 27 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 87
Rnd 42: (1 sc in the next 28 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 43: (1 sc in the next 29 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 93 sts
Rnd 44: (1 sc in the next 30 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 96 sts
Rnd 45: (1 sc in the next 31 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 99 sts
Rnd 46: (1 sc in the next 32 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 102 sts
Rnd 47: (1 sc in the next 33 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 105 sts
Rnd 48: (1 sc in the next 34 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 108 sts
Rnd 49 – 55: 1 sc in ea st around. – 108 sts
Rnd 56: (1 sc in the next 17 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 114 sts
Rnd 57: (1 sc in the next 18 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 120 sts
Rnd 58: (1 sc in the next 19 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 126 sts
Rnd 59: (1 sc in the next 20 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 132 sts
Rnd 60: (1 sc in the next 21 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 138 sts
Rnd 61: (1 sc in the next 22 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 144 sts
Rnd 62: (1 sc in the next 23 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 150 sts
Rnd 63: (1 sc in the next 24 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 156 sts
Rnd 64: (1 sc in the next 25 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 162 sts
Rnd 65: (1 sc in the next 26 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 168 sts
Rnd 66: (1 sc in the next 27 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 174 sts
Rnd 67: (1 sc in the next 28 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 180 sts
Rnd 68: (1 sc in the next 29 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 186 sts
Rnd 69: (1 sc in the next 30 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 192 sts
Rnd 70: (1 sc in the next 31 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 198 sts
Rnd 71: (1 sc in the next 32 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 204 sts
For a structured brim: Make a ring about the side of the brim of your hat from the craft wire. Fold the excess over at both ends, hooking the wire together, matching the diameter of the brim (get close but doesn’t have to be exact). In the next round, hold the wire on top of the piece, inserting your hook under the stitch and the wire to draw up loops, then yarn over on top of the wire and complete the stitch to trap the wire inside your stitches. Work this method around the entire brim for the following round:
Rnd 72: 1 sc in ea stitch around. – 204 sts
You may have to unhook and adjust your wire for more or less length toward the end of the round. Once finished, re-fold and hook the wire together, flatten the folded ends to close them off around each other, and clip off any excess. Then crochet as best you can over the wire join.
Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in ends – I wove my yarn end from the brim around the wire join lump, to give it some extra security! 🙂
As weapons go, I really identify with the choice of cast-iron pan, my favorite cooking implement 😉
-MF
Love it!
I really love this pattern, but us the stitch count messed up? Between Rnd 17 and 18 The count jumps back to going up by twos instead of fours. Annnd now I can’t figure out what I’m doing at all.
You are absolutely right Shaye! The stitch count did get messed up at 17-18, which made the rest of the stitch counts off by 2. Should be fixed now, thanks so much!
Thank you!!! I have dyscalculia, which is dyslexia for math. I get so confused by numbers and could not figure out if I was messing up, or if the numbers really were wrong. I also had one more question. The point of my hat is twisting a bit like a unicorn horn. Is it supposed to do that? I followed the directions. I even started over and tried again but it’s still looks curvy, which isn’t bad, but it’s not like yours. Did I miss something?
P.S. this is only the second time I have ever followed a written pattern. Because of my learning disability I usually just follow video tutorials on how to make things. I couldn’t find a good one for a hat so I decided to suck it up and try to figure a pattern out.
Oh good for you! I’m so glad you’re trying it out, please let me know if you have any other questions or see anything else that doesn’t make sense to you 🙂 I’m not sure about how the point of the hat is twisting – Mine did have a very slight sort of twist to it, but it went away after I stretched out the fabric a little bit 🙂 It would depend on your gauge, it might be that yours is just more exaggerated due to differences in yarn weight or tension – if it doesn’t bother you I’d say leave it as a neat little feature, but you could stretch your stitched fabric out some to see if that helps.
why is rnd 43 and 44 the same but different stitch count
Hi Angela, looks like there was an error there but it should be fixed now! Thanks for letting me know 🙂
Thanks for posting this easy to follow pattern. I made it for my daughter and she loves it! The tip of my hat was also twisty but I actually like it that way, has extra character!
Thank so much Joyce, I’m so glad you enjoyed it!
Pingback: Ushanka and Muff Set | Morale Fiber
This is so cute!! I definitely have to try it out. What’s the circumference of this hat? I have a big ol’ head, and I’ve sadly followed some patterns in the past that ended up too small. Just wanted to know ahead of time if I should adjust this one. Also, if I do need to make this bigger, how might I do that? Thank you so much for sharing your tips and very cool patterns!
Hi there! The inside brim of the hat should come out to around 22″, but if you need it bigger you can keep increasing in pattern after round 48, until it’s the size you like to fit your head, before moving on to the section that does not increase. It will mess up the brim counts but you just need to do 6 evenly placed increases each row for that part 🙂
Awesome, thank you so much!! Excited to give it a try!
Wow, do I ever love this… and the way you weave in the backstory. This hat is much more tangible than the one Granny Weatherwax gave her! I’m looking forward to giving it a go. With a minimum of “waily waily waily” thanks to your excellent instructions 🙂
Aww lol! Thank you so much, I’m so glad to hear it’s appreciated by a fellow fan <3 <3 If you encounter any wailies be sure to let me know! 🙂 Thank you so much for the feedback!
I haven’t even finished my first but I already have plans to make several of these in different colours!
How would it affect the structure of the hat if I leave out the ch-1 at the start of the rounds and the sl st at the end of the rounds?
Hi there! So glad you like the pattern 🙂 If you want to work in continuous rounds leaving off the ch-1 and sl st joins, you would probably get a more slanted pattern – more twist in the direction of your dominant hand. It shouldn’t overall affect the look of the hat, maybe make it just a little bumpier is my guess? Good luck!
Pingback: Hedge Witch Hat Pattern | Morale Fiber
Pingback: Wizard Hat Pattern | Morale Fiber
So, I was sent here by a fellow crocheter who made her witch’s hat with this pattern. I saw the iron pan in the first photo and was like “Wait….”
I’m gluing pins into mine to match my “I Aten’t Dead” tote bag. I would like the brim to be slightly bigger, do I just keep making rows until it’s as wide as I want it? Can one skip the wire and just make those stitches as tight as one can to keep it from flopping?
Thanks for the pattern 💕
Ohh that’s so cool! Granny Weatherwax is definitely my hero 🙂 yes, you should be able to just keep adding rows in the established pattern until you have the width you like 🙂 and the brim might be kinda floppy but if you want to stiffen without wire, I’d recommend trying an extra round of crab stitch around the edge when complete 🙂
Thank you for sharing this pattern! I’m making this hat for my Halloween party, and it is going really well so far. I can’t wait to wear it
Aaaaa yay! Thank you so much for the kind feedback, I’m so glad you are enjoying it!
I just finished mine. It is a really great straight forward easy-to-follow pattern and quick to crochet, too! I just love the knobby look of the tip, it makes it so much more lively! If there wasn’t a tip jar, I’d feel bad. Thank you so much for your work! Greatly appreciated!
Aww thank you so much! I’m so thrilled you liked it 🙂
Pingback: October Reflecting | Morale Fiber
Pingback: The Hat – Atelier Whootique
have you tried the pattern using two yarns, as a thicker version..just wondering…
I haven’t myself, but I have heard from a crocheter who used a thicker yarn and ended up with a bit more of a twist in the tension of their stitches, so the witch top didn’t come out as straight – still charming though!
Pingback: Wizard Hat Pattern – Morale Fiber
Pingback: 25 Free Witch Patterns to Crochet • RaffamusaDesigns
Pingback: 8 Halloween Witch Hat Crochet Patterns - FREE - iGOODideas.com
Ahoj! Great pattern and easy to follow. Thank you. I’m just wondering if the head ends at 55 and the brim starts at 56?
Thank you so much, and great question – indeed it does! The brim expansion starts at Rnd 56 🙂
Thanks! I just finished about 5 minutes ago. I did continuous round. At 56 I did flo to give it a little more definition. I didn’t weave in yet because I haven’t decided on the wire yet.