Sounds trendy to talk about how much you love Halloween these days, but like, I really love Halloween guys. No trend shame here. That’s why despite the myriad and awesome crochet witch hat patterns out there, I had to design my own. I wanted a certain look and after a few tries, I really like what I came up with!
UPDATE 5/28/20 – I have added a second variation to this hat – there are now instructions for both Type A (appearing first – a bit taller and pointier) and Type B (appearing below Type A instructions, a little shorter and curvier). I’ve also added a purchasable, downloadable, ad-free PDF for this pattern in my Etsy Shop, Ko-fi Shop, and Ravelry Store! <3 thank you!
This free crochet pattern works with worsted weight yarn in half double stitches, and utilizes the Switchback Join technique to keep the seam straight, which you can find in this free tutorial on my blog!
Please excuse the fact that I had way too much fun creating a vintage witch photoshoot 😉
Hedge Witch Hat
Materials:
3.75 mm hk
#4 weight yarn – Approximately 200-250 yds
Gauge: 4 sts & 3 rows – 1” in hdc
Finished measurements: ~ 25″ on the inside, 36″ brim on the outside, 9-10″ height
Types: A (Pointier, black & dark gray versions), B (Rounder, light gray and tan versions)
Stitches (sts) & Abbreviations
half-double crochet (hdc)
slip stitch (sl st)
chain (ch)
back loop only (BLO)
round (rnd)
each (ea)
Special Techniques & Notes:
The Switchback Join
This pattern uses a special join to keep the seam straight. This technique uses a system of backward and forward positioning, alternating on each row. The end of each backward row is joined by slip stitching forward by one stitch in a special way, as shown in my free tutorial which can be accessed here:
https://moralefiber.blog/2019/10/02/switchback-join-tutorial/
The Switchback Join method is marked on the pattern instructions to keep track. This join must be used if you want the curves of the hat positioned correctly. If you want a knobbly chaos witch hat, feel free to skip!
Notes: All tutorial images appear after the written instructions they are depicting
Instructions, Type A:
Rnd 1 (back): hdc 8 into magic ring. Join with a sl st
Rnd 2 (forward): 1 hdc in ea st. Join with a slip st to first hdc of the rnd. – 8 sts
Rnd 3 (back): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 12 sts
Rnd 4 (forward): Ch1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in the next st. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 16 sts
Rnd 5 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 20 sts
Rnd 6 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st and in ea of the next 3 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts
Rnd 7 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts
Rnd 8 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts
Rnd 9 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts
Rnd 10 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts
Rnd 11 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts
Rnd 12 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 8 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 18 sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts
Rnd 13 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts
Rnd 14 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts
Rnd 15 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts
Rnd 16 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts
Rnd 17 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts
Rnd 18 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts
Rnd 19 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts
Rnd 20 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts
Rnd 21 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts
Rnd 22 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts
Rnd 23 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts
Rnd 24 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 25 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 26 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 27 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 28 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 29 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in the next 3 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. (1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts. 2 hdc in the next st) twice. (1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 6 times. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 104 sts
Rnd 30 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. – 112 sts
Rnd 31 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 120 sts
Rnd 32 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. – 128 sts
Rnd 33 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 136 sts
Rnd 34 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. – 144 sts
Rnd 35 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 144 sts
Rnd 36: Sl st in ea st around.
Weave in all ends to finish. I used some spare chenille yarn and a larger hook to double chain a thin hat band. These hats would be really cute with extras like felted leaves or buttons – I may have to make some more!
Instructions: Type B
Rnd 1 (back): Ch 1. Hdc 8 into magic ring. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.
Rnd 2 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st. Join with a slip st to first hdc of the rnd. – 8 sts
Rnd 3 (back): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 12 sts
Rnd 4 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. – 16 sts
Rnd 5 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 20 sts
Rnd 6 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts. 2 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts
Rnd 7 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sls t in the BLO of the next st. – 24 sts
Rnd 8 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts
Rnd 9 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 36 sts
Rnd 10 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 8 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 18 sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts
Rnd 11 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 54 sts
Rnd 12 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts
Rnd 13 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 60 sts
Rnd 14 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts
Rnd 15 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 66 sts
Rnd 16 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts
Rnd 17 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 72 sts
Rnd 18 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts
Rnd 19 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 78 sts
Rnd 20 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts
Rnd 21 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 84 sts
Rnd 22 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 23 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 90 sts
Rnd 24 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 25 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 90 sts
Rnd 26 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts
Rnd 27 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 90 sts
Rnd 28 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st.
Resume pattern at Round 29 for Type A and complete the instructions from there onward.
For more Halloween themed crochet patterns and tutorials, check out these:
And of course, I have tons more free patterns available – if you would like to check them out, visit my Free Pattern page!
<3 MF
Hey, so good pattern, however it is way too big for my head (i dont really have alot of hair) any tips on how to make it a bit more snug?
Certainly! You can work this pattern up to Round 19 – depending on the yarn and gauge, this round might be big enough (I’m making one right now with double strands where I stopped increasing at Round 19). Or, you can work to Round 21 and then stop increasing, or work to Round 23 and then stop increasing. Ending increasing at these rounds will give you more size options (the fewer rounds with increase the smaller it will be). After that, you can skip to Rounds 25-28 to finish the length of the hat, or add a few rounds there without increasing if the hat isn’t long enough (since you skipped earlier rows). Then you can work the brim! 🙂
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Sooo cute! Can’t wait to try it!
Thank you! I am working on a two-stranded version too 😉
I Iove this so much and I’m making it in a burnt saffron ish color to wear all year round 😀 I may add a vine brim braid thing to go around it with small flowers. I’m so excited!! Thank you so much for sharing this!
Ooh that sounds absolutely lovely! And I love saffron color, burnt orange, persimmon, whatever you call it – divine! <3
…hey chicky…I love this pattern and I am in the process of making it…but im only a beginner. so I stopped increasing in round 23 as yooh stated which left me at 84 sts. so now im at round 29 and I don’t know how to continue from there as far as figuring out how many stitches to increase to the end of the pattern…pleeeese help me..
thank yooh
jan
Hi Jan! What I would do is add one more round (or use round 29) to add just 6 more stitches to your total to bring the hat up to the 90 stitches you should have in round 28. That way the majority of the hat is your size but you can add the the stitches now so that increased size becomes part of your brim instead of your hat band size. Then you can continue with your increasing as normal 🙂
…hey chicky… omg…that makes total sense…I will certainly do that…thank yooh so very much for replying…
jan
Absolutely!! 🙂 🙂 🙂
The Switchback Join Tutorial has Round 2 & even rounds as the backward leaning rounds. This pattern has Round 1 & odd rounds as the backward leaning round. For this pattern, at the end of Round 1, should I join with a slip stitch, then skip one more stitch and add an extra at the end of the Round r to make up for it or at the end of Round 1, join by working a slip stitch in the first st, ch 1 & hdc in the same stitch to begin next Round 2?
Yes, the pattern of backward & forward on this pattern is different than the Demo – the pattern written should be right, but I’ll double check. Honestly it wouldn’t make a big difference either way for this design, as long as you alternate backward and forward rounds in some way 🙂
Thank you much! Got it.
You told Amanda Richard “After that, you can skip to Rounds 25-28 to finish the length of the hat”
Do you mean to literally skip Rounds 20-24 by doing Round 19 & then Round 25 immediately after that
OR
continue making all of the rounds, just skipping the increases that are in Rounds 20-24?
Also, what size hook are you using for double strands?
Take care!
“After that, you can skip to Rounds 25-28 to finish the length of the hat, or add a few rounds there without increasing if the hat isn’t long enough (since you skipped earlier rows).”
I think I meant literally skip them, lol, but that’s more viable if you are working up to Rounds 21 or 23. If you stop increasing at Rnd 19 you’ll need more rounds that just work even without increasing if the hat isn’t long enough. Sorry it took me some time to decipher what I was talking about 😀 Hopefully that makes sense. For the double stranded hat I remained at the hook size recommended for this pattern, and just struggled along with a too-small hook.
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hi! i’m considering making one of these, but i don’t have the right yarn. I was wondering about how much you used, so i can buy enough skeins 🙂
Hi Alix! I am not sure exactly but I would estimate that 250 yards should cover it 🙂
Thank you very much!
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Hi! Just wondering how the switchback join works with this pattern, as most of the backrounds start with Ch1 then HDC in same stitch, when the switchback start calls for Ch1, skip next stitch, those two instructions don’t seem to have a way to work together, unless I’m missing something obvious 😅
Thanks in advance for your clarification, I LOVE this pattern and really REALLY wanna make it
Hi Moire! That’s a great question – the two do work together, I’ll try to explain a little here! 🙂 The Switchback join works with alternating Backward and Forward rounds, of course. Each backward round starts with Ch 1, which doesn’t count as the first stitch, then 1 hdc in the same stitch. That’s the round that is worked like a normal crochet round.
The forward round starts by making an extra slip stitch in the very first stitch of the round. So you slip stitch to finish & join the backward round, and then make another slip stitch in the back loop only (BLO) of the very next stitch, which is the first stitch of the next round (would have been the second stitch if it had been a backward round). So your slip stitch join occupies & replaces what would have been the first stitch of the round, and you start the round by chaining and hdc in the next stitch. Then at the end of the round, you make your final stitch in the slip stitch join, which now counts as the last stitch instead of the first 🙂
The instructions for this process are written a little clearer in the PDF version of the pattern than in the blog post – I’ll have to get that updated soon! I hope that helps and let me know if you still have questions!
Thanks so much, this really helps 😊
Awesome! <3 <3
Since the update in the pattern, I’m having trouble. Around row 32, I seem to have extra stitches at the end of the row. Can some please verify if I’m doing something wrong, or if there is a mistake in the pattern?
I also found that I can’t figure out the switchback join technique, due to the mistake in the tutorial. Can you upload a fixed version without the mistake so I can figure it out, please? Thank you!
Hi Elisha, how many extra stitches are you coming up with in Row 32? I will double check the pattern there. As for the tutorial, can you specify where you are finding a mistake? Thanks! 🙂
Also, were you working Type A or Type B?
I checked up on the tutorial and I think maybe you are referring to the “mistake” at the first round, here’s the text:
“Rnd 1: You can and probably should count this as the first round, meaning it will be an A or backward leaning round, although I have to admit that I didn’t – oops. That will set me off-center slightly but it won’t matter much. ”
This isn’t really a mistake one way or the other, you can either count that round or not count it as your first forward or backward round. It really doesn’t matter, as long as you alternate forward and backward rounds, your seam will stay straight 🙂 If that’s not the part you’re having trouble with, let me know!
I managed to finish. But I’m going to try again. I want to get it right!!! I will let you know if I run into trouble again.
Ok great! It’s a bit of a fiddly pattern but hopefully it came out good – definitely let me know! 🙂
Wow! What a fun pattern to make. However I am confused about the final rows for version A:
Rnd 34 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st. – 144 sts
Rnd 35 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 136 sts
How can it end with 136 stitches when the prior row has 144? I’m sooo close to being done lol but can’t figure out how to lose those 8 extra stitches.
Thank you
Oh, sorry about that! It looks like one of those counts is wrong – left over from the first version of the pattern 🙂 144 should be the correct count!
Thank you for the swift response I really appreciate it! I actually went ahead & finished and it came out perfectly, can’t wait to wear it.
Oh awesome! <3 <3 Yay! 🙂
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Would this pattern work JUST as well “in a continuous round with NO join And no beginning chains? Will a seam show with this method?
Hi Deborah! You could definitely do this pattern in the round without joining, but the problem with doing it that way is that crochet stitch tends to lean toward the direction of the dominant hand. So if you worked the entire pattern without the switchback join, the way that the shaping lines up will slant further and further right for every round (if you’re right handed) and your hat won’t have the bulges & bends all occurring in the same place at the back of the hat.
However, as I mentioned in the notes, you can still skip the switchback join and do one of the regular joins for this hat if you really prefer and end up with just a little more crazy-looking hat! 🙂 A continuous join would get rid of the seam, too 🙂
I made it, its xute, not fully sure if I did it right. How do you make a hat band? Was there turns when you went to the next row? Was there a full row of slip stitch in BLO parts of the pattern?
Hi Caitlin! I made the hat band by chaining a length of stitches and then working back down the chain in single crochet – I just estimated the amount needed by holding it up to the hat 🙂
This piece is worked continuously in the round, so there are no turns in the pattern or any rows that consist entirely of slip stitches – if your hat isn’t looking quite like the picture, you may have missed that Switchback Join method is required to make the hat look like the picture (it’s mentioned in the notes and there’s a tutorial link for how to work this join).
Though the method is written into the pattern instructions, it may take a full viewing of the tutorial to fully understand how it should be working in this project. 🙂 Thanks and I hope that helps!
What yarn did you use?
Hi Nicole! I use almost any #4 weight acrylic yarn for these, such as Red Heart SS or I Love This Yarn! But be sure to check your gauge before starting 🙂
Trying to mod this for my 2 year old daughter (she loves my modern witch hats but of course they dont fit) any tips on scaling it down that much..? I tried on my own it turned out wonky and bubbly. TIA love the array of patterns.! Cant wait to do them all 🥰🙃🥰
Oh so cute! I’m not sure about sizing it down by the stitch counts, but I’ll bet you can get a small one easiest by sizing down your hook and yarn! I saw someone on Instagram get a pretty small one by using a #3 weight yarn instead of a #4 weight 🙂
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Hi there,
I have a big of a bigger head. How might I adjust this to fit me? 🙂
Hi Dani! You’ll have to work extra rounds of increases after Round 24. To do that, you add 6 more stitches each round as you had already been doing, but do it until the inner brim of the hat feels big enough to fit the intended head 🙂 After that, continue on with the Rounds (formerly 25-28) that don’t increase. The next part will require some math.
However many stitches you have, divide by 3 and multiply by 2 – you will want to concentrate the increases on 2/3rds of the hat to get the swayed brim of the original on Round 29. If you don’t care to get that specific, you can skip straight to the next part, which increases at a flat rate as before, adding 8 stitches per row evenly placed, until the flat brim is as big as you want.
You’ll probably end up having to smudge the math a little but I hope that helps!
this may sound a bit dumb… but in the alternating rows are you meant to also switch the direction of the crochet like in a scarf? my join seems to be migrating to one side is all.
Hi Danielle- not a dumb question at all! You won’t be turning like for a back-and-forth set of rows though, you’ll be continuing to work all in the same direction. The alternating join method (Switchback join) only refers to moving the starting stitch one stitch forward, or leaving it where it would normally be. If your join is skewing to one side more heavily, your tension may be causing it to not be balanced and that can be corrected by changing how much you switch back and forth.
So if your join is leaning heavily to the side of your dominant hand, do more joins that move the starting stitch one stitch foward. If your joins are leaning to the side of your non-dominant hand, do more joins that do not move the starting stitch forward 🙂 Hope that helps!
Hi Regina!
How did you attach the crochet hat band to your hat, please?
I was debating on sewing vs crocheting mine on and I bet you have already discovered the best method.
Many thanks!
Julie
Hi Julia! I definitely crocheted it separately and then sewed it on 🙂 🙂 I like that method because crocheting it on can end up a little wonky with tension sometimes! Thanks for visiting <3
Thanks Regina, it’s a great pattern & super cute hat. Keep up the great work!
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I love love this pattern. I am confuse with forward and back. Is this pattern in round or joint and turn. I am sorry for the dum question
Hi Sonia! This pattern is worked in the round 🙂 the Forward/Backward instructions refer to the Switchback Join technique used in this pattern. Please refer to the notes at the beginning g of the pattern for a full explaination/link to tutorial 🙂
Hi moralefiber, I was told about the pattern for the type A & B hedge witch hat by my sister as I’ve taken up crocheting since vivid hit the uk, and I was wondering if you were willing, could you put a tutorial for these patterns on YouTube for those of use who are left handed and don’t read patterns so easily?
Much appreciated, Lisa A!
Hi Lisa! I think that’s a great idea, one of the things I need more of is lefty-friendly content 🙂 Thank you for the suggestion, I will keep in in mind for the future 😊
Hello! I’m nearly done, and it’s looking cute! Before I continue, where it says BLO, then work in the same stitch, do you put the hdc in the back loop as well? Then do you continue to work in BLO, or just for the second slip stitch? Thank you 😃
Great question! I only put the slip stitch in the back loop only, the hdc goes into both loops – its just to make the slip stitch a little less apparent 🙂 I’m so glad you are enjoying!
This is super cute, whimsical and yet practical too. I especially appreciate projects where we get to learn new techniques while making something fun. Thank you! I love your designs. They’re unique in the sea of crochet that’s out there.
Hi Elene and thank you so much for your kind feedback! I’m so glad you like 🙂 🙂
Hi, I had a question about Version A, Round 14. The instructions only seem to over the first 50 st., but there are 54 stitches to work with. Do I just do 1hdc in the last 4 stitches and sl or skip them?
Hi there! I checked back to Rnd 14, Type A and I’m not seeing a mistake in the numbers there, are you sure you counted correctly? I have the following:
“1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in the next 7bsts, 2 hdc in the next st” ( =10 sts total).
Then “(1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 5 times” 10 sts per repeat x 5 repeats is 50 sts, plus the initial 10, = 60.
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Hi there! After starting over a few times I finally got it and have been having a lot of fun with this pattern. Just finished round 19 (view A) but decided to look ahead a bit to see what is coming. Which brings me to my question…
From 29 (backward) this bit starts to pop up at the end “Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st”
the Sl st in the BLO comes after we’ve done the whole switchback special stitch which goes under “join with a sl st” correct? So it would be picking up the joining slip stitch into the next BLO, and then slip stitching into the next BLO as well?
Like I said I had to start over a few times, I have no idea where I kept going wrong in the first few rounds, but I decided to switch the meaning of back and forward rounds to be able to follow the written tutorial for the join (meaning rnd 2 is really a backward round), to see if that would help. And I don’t know if it was that or something else, but it did work and it looks nice! Since I’m starting the “backwards” labelled rounds with the special BLO loop pickup, should I move that new “Sl st in the BLO of the next st” to match or is it more important which number round that happens on?
Anyways, loving the pattern. Learning so much!
Hi, that’s a great question! There should of be ONE slip stitch ( in the BLO) at the beginning of each round, every round through the whole hat. So that must be a typing error or a repeat of instructions that slipped in somehow, thanks so much for catching that!
Hi! How do you get the brim to stand out like
Pictured? The only thing I can think of is that On the rounds where you slip into the BLO am I suppose to do the whole round in the BLO?
Thanks
Nope! I don’t do any rounds on the back loop only entirely, the brim just stands that way from the combination of my yarn (very stiff acrylic) and my tension (i crochet very tightly) 🙂 You can try using starch on the fabric or crocheting a wire into the brim to stiffen, too 🙂
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Hi Regina. As per usual, thank you SO much for this free pattern! I saw something like this in an ad, and thought “I can make this myself,” and low and behold a quick search for witch hat patterns lead me right to you. I should have known! LOL! Anyway, I’d like to make this as a summer sun hat, any particular yarn you would recommend?
Hi Jacqueline! That’s so funny you mention, because I designed this hat to match one I saw in those ads 😉 I own one of them, and I used it as a template haha! I suspected there would be other crocheters out there wanting to recreate it. Anyway, I would want to try Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton for this project, although you might have to watch your gauge for that one, I know for me my stitch would be smaller in that yarn than in the acrylics. But I love that yarn for summer outerwear, as it is 100% cotton and is a good combination of durable and soft – I happened to look and it’s on sale on their website right now, i hope that doesn’t mean a discontinuation. I’ll include the link in case you need it:
https://www.lionbrand.com/products/24-7-cotton
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Hi! Thank you for this free pattern! So far I’m 11 rows in and I am stumped on 12. I’m sorry if I sound stupid. I have tried 3 times but I’m only getting 30 stitches. I’m following the pattern to a T. Is there something I’m missing? I’m working on pattern B. Thank you again!
Hi Pam! I can’t be sure, but I think I see where you are coming up so short on stitches – the point where it says (2 hdc in the next st) 8 times means you will work 16 hdc over the next 8 stitches. Same for part later in the row (2 hdc in next st) 9 times = 18 sts over the next 9 sts. So if you didn’t get those repeats right, that would be almost 34 stitches too few in the row, which would be about what you’re getting
Also, no such thing as a stupid question here 🙂 🙂 glad you asked and please let me know if that’s not the issue!
thanks again for an awesome pattern (i did the lotus duster too, just need a model to get a picture). i’m making these as winter hats with a yarn about a 5, and a 4mm hook, and it’s sooooo cozy! great xmas gifts for my family!
however, even doing the switch back join, the beginning of the row seems to be migrating left (i’m right handed). it seems to be after i started the increases for the main body on pattern b. like, you can see it moving and the join is a diagonal (if you look really close). i’m on row 29 of the second hat, so i’m not too fussed, but shouldn’t the seam be straight? i’m following your switch back tutorial (sl into first stitch, sl in blo of next st with the first sl off the hook, catch the it then work in the blo st).
Hi there and great question!! Okay, so the Switchback Join actually does come with a caveat – in certain instances, in certain gauges or tensions, the ration of Backward to Forward rounds is actually not 50/50. Sometimes it’ll have to be slipping in a Forward round every TWO rounds instead of every OTHER round. This can be really hard to predict because it depends on the hand tension of the crocheter the most, so it’s not mentioned in the pattern. If you want to straighten your seam out you may want to throw some extra Backward rounds in and see what the right ratio is for your tension.
Doing this shouldn’t mess up the increase placement too much as long as you shoot for a straight-ish seam, the shaping should line up more or less fine 🙂 🙂
Wait im a little confused by CH1 are you meaning literal chaining or like an increase?
Ch stands for chain stitch yes 🙂
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I’m so excited I was finally able to get to this project. My mom bought me some lovely wool yarn and I wanted to try felting this pattern.
I used your cute little Krampus horn pattern to curl out the point (ending Rnd: 25) and upped the gauge to the next sized hook (4.25mm).
It’s adorable! Thanks for the pattern!
Oh that sounds like a totally charming twist (haha) to this design! And felted too, are you on Instagram? If so I’d love to see it, tag me if you want to <3 <3 Thank you so much for the cool feedback
I need some help. I have mostly completed the hat (not cut from the skein yet) and it is too small. I followed the pattern very carefully and I have a small head, but it is much too small. Suggestions please
Hi Rhiannon (I love your name 🙂 ) Did you do a gauge swatch for this project? Is your gauge matching the recommended gauge given for the pattern?
Just made this! Glad I checked the comments for how to make it a bit smaller and it turned out perfect!! 🩷
Yay so glad you liked! 🙂 Thanks for the feedback!
My daughter wants this hat and I’m happy to make it for her, but the switchback join is definitely throwing me off. You say it’s written into the pattern – do you mean the actual process or just which rows are which? Like, if I just follow the pattern as written, will I be doing the join or do I have to consciously add the steps for the join? If that makes sense!
Also, would using the join by Wilma (that you mentioned in the switchback join blog) work as well for this pattern or no? Thanks!
Hi there and yes, Wilma’s strategy should work fine as a substitute 🙂 For my switchback join, the manner of joining is only marked in the pattern for the Hedge Witch Hat as either a Forward round, or a Backward round, and that’s marked at the beginning of the row. The actual step by steps for the join aren’t written in specifically, so you’d have to have a good handle on how the type of join works since you’d be consciously using the Forward or Backward label on the rows as a guide for which to do 🙂
Thank you!
What is meant by backward crochet? Is there a video tutorial for that? All I can find are reverse crochet.
Hi Maria! “Forward” and “Backward” in this pattern refer to the slant of your join when you join at the end of the round. This pattern uses the Switchback Join method to make the joining seam stay straight – refer to the tutorial linked in the notes to get the full explanation! (So no, you’re not actually crocheting backwards! 🙂 )
I love your patterns! I’ve actually bought a couple off Etsy.
A question for you: I have just a singular 2.75 hook. Would I just continue increasing to make it fit correctly? I’m not going to have easy access to the rest of my hooks for a couple days and I need something to make, lol.
HI and thank you so much! Sorry I missed this message (not sure it matters now) but yes you can continue the increases in the logic of the pattern until it’s big enough for your head, but you’ll have to re-center when it comes to working the brim (you should start the rows for the brim in the middle of an increase set) or else the “lean” of the hat will be off 🙂 Hope that helps!