Update! : To see all available sizes of the FREE Elf Coat pattern as well as all the pattern add-ons, visit the Elf Coat FAQ page for links!
Thanks to all the beautiful people out there who expressed love and enthusiasm for the Elf Coat saga, I have managed to finish writing the Large size pattern! I really enjoyed working on this design, particularly gathering inspiration and feedback from social media, as it evolved and transformed for me. And, I’m sure it isn’t done yet! If you have questions about this particular design, please refer to the Elf Coat FAQ page that answers some of the top queries 🙂
Also, the downloadable, printable, ad-free PDF pattern is also available for purchase now in my Etsy Shop and Ravelry Pattern Store, and includes all three sizes plus the tutorial for the corset back, pockets, and belt tie!
You can also find the sizes Small and Medium patterns for FREE on my blog. If you want to be in the loop on everything I’m working on be sure to follow my Facebook page here and join my Magical Crochet FB group here!
Elf Coat Pattern: Large
Materials
6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook
King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic – color shown is Autumn) – 16 skeins
Gauge for Riot DK: 9 sts & 10 rows = 2”
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 18 skeins
Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”
Size: Large. Small and Medium can be found on my blog for free as well! This Large size pattern is based on a 13-wedge skirt (7 pointed, 6 simple). Further tips on custom sizing can be found in the pattern. Many people have asked how to size up – there are not yet plus sizes written, but an XL will be based on a 15 wedge skirt (7 pointed 8 simple), and 2XL will be based on a 17 wedge skirt (8 pointed 9 simple). The math of the pattern is explained in the notes to each section and can be modified following the number of wedges in the skirt’s size requirements.
Finished Measurements:
Waist: 45”
Bust: ~ 45”
Hip: ~ 47”
Sleeve: 22″ (measured armpit to hem), 22”, 22”
Length: ~37”
This pattern is based on the number of wedges in the skirt. Large is made from a 13-wedge skirt (7 pointed, 6 simple). Shown below is a size Small, made from 9 wedges.
Notes on yarn, gauge, and sizing:
Yarn: I chose King Cole Riot DK yarn for this pattern because of it’s long color changes and pretty one-ply structure that makes the colors and the stitches well defined. The DK weight and 30% wool content creates a sleek and lightweight fabric that is also very warm. However, the big box hobby stores in the U.S do not carry this yarn – I get it from a UK website called LoveKnitting.com (which I highly recommend!).
So, I wanted to find a substitute yarn that is more commercially available and the closest I could find was Red Heart Unforgettable, which also looks gorgeous for this design. RH Unforgettable is 100% acrylic, which has the benefit of zero felting, and being allergy/vegan friendly. It is also a #4 weight yarn which means it will gauge differently.
Gauge: Since the two yarns gauge differently, I have listed the gauges for each yarn individually under the materials section. These are using the 6.50 mm hook listed. If you use Unforgettable following it’s gauge, you can get a slightly bigger coat using the same stitch counts listed in the pattern.
9 stitches = 2″ in Riot DK
10 rows = 2″ in Riot DK
8 sts = 2″ in RH Unforgettable. It’s really more like 8.5 stitches, but we’re calling it 8 because of stretch!
9 rows = 2″
It’s also an option to change the hook size for Unforgettable to obtain the gauge given for Riot DK, if you want to use the alternate yarn but still get the size pictured.
NOTE FOR LEFTIES: If you are left-handed, your pattern pieces will be mirrored – for instance, your left panel for the torso of the jacket will be worked from the Right Panel pattern, and vice versa.
Techniques Used:
Chain (ch)
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) – stitch used for each coat piece. Tutorial can be found on my blog here: https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Increase (TKS inc): Increasing in Tunisian Knit Stitch. Tutorial here: – https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Decrease (TKS dec): Decreasing in Tunisian Knit stitch – tutorial here: https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
Linked Double Crochet (LDC): Creating a row of double crochet that are linked in the middle. Tutorial here: https://moralefiber.blog/2018/02/02/linked-double-crochet-tutorial/
Slip Stitch (Sl st): Used selectively for seaming
Whip Stitch: Sewing stitch made with a tapestry needle with yarn as thread, used for seaming.
Video Tutorials: I have created a playlist of video tutorials for working all the Tunisian stitches and other special techniques needed for this design, please refer to those on my YouTube channel at the link below! 😊
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i8JEaMwoXg&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJGbejoOm
Technique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful crochet technique and I love it and highly recommend learning if you haven’t. But since this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just rows of regular stitches with some increases and decreases – that’s really it) a different technique can easily be substituted in. As long as your stitches match the gauge given, you could work this pattern in regular single crochet or regular knit stitch.
One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet or one regular knit/purl stitch.
I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single crochet, and obtained a closely matching gauge using a 4.0 mm hook.
Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does wonders for your finished piece, especially with Tunisian crochet which tends to curl. Blocking for this piece can be done simply by laying your piece out on a foam mat, using blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat and pretty and in the right shape. Using a spray bottle and plain water, wet the piece, then let dry. This works great with wool based yarns (King Cole Riot DK) and moderately well with acrylics (RH Unforgettable).
If you have any questions about any of the info given above
(it’s a lot!), please don’t hesitate to contact me via e-mail at moralefiber@yahoo.com or on my blog
Pattern Help and Support page here:
https://moralefiber.blog/pattern-help-support/
Or via Messenger on my FB page here:
www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber
Now on to the pattern!
Instructions
The pieces of this coat can be completed in any order.
Simple Wedge (Make 6)
Both the simple wedges and the pointed wedges can be shortened by subtracting 8 rows right after the initial Row 1.
Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return
pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS
in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts.
RP. – 17 sts
Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st,
increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.
Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st,
increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts.
Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st,
increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts.
Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Pointed Wedge (Make 7):
Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return
pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS
in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts.
RP. – 17 sts
Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 20-27: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next 8 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 29-32: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next 9 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 34-37: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next 10 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 39-42: TKS across, RP. – 25 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next 11 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 44-47: TKS across, RP. – 27 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. RP. – 33 sts
Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next 16 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 59: TKS across, RP. – 37 sts
Row 60: TKS in the next 17 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 61: TKS across, RP. – 39 sts
Row 62: TKS in the next 18 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts
Row 64: TKS in the next 19 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts
Row 66: TKS in the next 20 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 71: TKS in the next 25 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 72: TKS in the next 26 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 73: TKS in the next 27 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 74: TKS in the next 28 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 75: TKS in the next 29 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 76: TKS in the next 30 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 78: TKS in the next 32 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in
the next sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Skirt Construction
Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges as shown, seam all blocks together with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn.
Skirt Border:
The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked Double Crochet, worked back and forth, with increases at the point of each pointed wedge.
With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of the skirt hem.
Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at
the point of each pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this increase.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each
point where the increase was marked.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each
ch-1 from the increase points of the previous row.
Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie off. You can work extra border here if you want the skirt longer!
Close-up of the increases placed at the point of each pointed wedge
WAIST:
The waist is worked directly onto the top of the wedges that make up the skirt. One stitch is skipped on every block, to create a slight decrease in width to accentuate the waist. This means that each size will have a waistband that equals (14 sts X Number of Wedges) for the total stitch count at the end of Row 1.
Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the tops of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 12 times. RP. – 182 sts
To modify the size here, add or subtract any rows after the first one to make it longer or shorter. To create inset pockets, see “Pockets” Instructions, before completing the waistband. Outside pockets may be completed after the waistband is finished.
Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP.
Back Panel:
The back panel is worked the length of stitches that equals half of the number of stitches in the waist. . In Large, 182 divided by 2 equals 91.
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 91
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 89 sts. Return pass (RP). – 91 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 91 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 83 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 89 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 81 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 87 sts
Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 79 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 85 sts
Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 77 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 83 sts
Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 75 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 81 sts
Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 73 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 79 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 71 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 77 sts
Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 69 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 75 sts
Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 67 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 65 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 63 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 61 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 59 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 40: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 57 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 61 sts
Row 42: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 59 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 51 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 57 sts
Row 44: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS I the next 2 sts. RP – 55 sts
Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 53 st
Row 46: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKs dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 51 sts
Row 47: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 49 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 47 sts
Row 49: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 45 sts
Row 50: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 43 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 41 sts
Row 52: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 39 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 37 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 35 sts
Row 55: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 31 sts
Row 57: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 29 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 27 sts
Row 59: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 25 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Front Panel – Right:
The front panels are worked with the length of stitches equaling the half of the waistband that the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two, so each panel will be a quarter of the total waistband stitches. For larges, 182 / 4 = 45.5. Since that’s not a whole number, I will round down to 45 and fudge the seam a tiny bit.
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 45.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 43 sts. Return pass (RP). – 45 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 45 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 41 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 44 sts.
Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 40 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 43 sts.
Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 39 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 42 sts.
Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 38 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 41 sts.
Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 37 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 40 sts.
Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 36 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 39 sts.
Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 35 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 38 sts.
Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP –37 sts.
Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 36 sts.
Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 35 sts.
Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 34 sts.
Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 33 sts
Row 39: TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 32 sts
Row 40: TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 31 sts
Row 41: TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 30 sts
Row 42: TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 29 sts
Row 43: TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 28 sts
Row 44: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 27 sts
Row 45: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 26 sts
Row 46: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25 sts
Row 47: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 sts
Row 48: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23 sts
Row 49: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22 sts
Row 50: TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21 sts
Row 51: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20 sts
Row 52: TKS in ea of the next 16 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 54: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 55: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 56: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 57: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 58: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 59: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Front Panel – Left:
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 45.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 29, 36, 43 sts. Return pass (RP). – 45 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. –45 sts
Rows 3 – 26: Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 42 sts. RP – 44 sts.
Row 28: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 41 sts. RP – 43 sts.
Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 40 sts. RP – 42 sts.
Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 39 sts. RP – 41 sts.
Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 38 sts. RP – 40 sts.
Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 37 sts. RP – 39 sts.
Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 36 sts. RP – 38 sts.
Row 34: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 35 sts. RP – 37 sts.
Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. RP – 36 sts.
Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. RP – 35 sts.
Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. RP – 34 sts.
Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. RP – 33 sts.
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. RP. – 32 sts
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. RP. – 30 sts
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. RP. – 28 sts
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. RP. – 26 sts
Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Row 47: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. RP. – 24 sts
Row 48: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Row 49: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. RP. – 22 sts
Row 50: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Row 51: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. RP. – 20 sts
Row 52: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. RP. – 19 sts. Row 53: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 54: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 55: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 56: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 57: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 58: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 59: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Seam the Back & Front Panels
Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch the sides of the panels together so that the long angles face each other. Stitch together the straight sides, but not the angles. Once the bodice is sewn together, line the flat bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach using a 3.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn by working a slip stitch through both pieces.
SLEEVE (Make 2):
The sleeves for all sizes begin with a 16-chain length, then work a portion of increases creating a slant that lines up with the slanted edge of the bodice. The sleeve then works decreases to size down for the main part of the arm (worked evenly), then increases again for the flared sleeve.
The former design placed the decrease portion at the ends of the rows, but the new 2.0 version is written so that the decreases are placed centrally, in the middle of the row. This allows the fabric to slant downward to follow the natural line of the shoulder. If you prefer working the old style, simply place the decreases at the ends of the rows instead 😊
Ch 16.
Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts
Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts
Row 3: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 20 sts
Row 4: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 22 sts
Row 5: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 24 sts
Row 6: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 26 sts
Row 7: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 28 sts
Row 8: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 30 sts
Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 34 sts
Row 11: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 36 sts
Row 12: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 38 sts
Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts
Row 14: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts
Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 38 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts
Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 46 sts
Row 17: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 42 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts
Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 44 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 50 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 52 sts
Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts
Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 56 sts
Row 22: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 52 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 23: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 54 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 60 sts
Row 24: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 56 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 25: TKS in ea st across. – 62 sts
Row 26: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 58 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 27: TKS in ea st across. – 64 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 60 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 66 sts
Row 29: TKS in ea st across. – 66 sts
Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 62 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts.
Row 31: TKS in ea st across. – 68 sts
Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 64 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 70 sts
Row 33: TKS in ea st across. RP – 70 sts
Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. –66 sts
Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 60 sts
Row 39: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 40: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 56 sts
Rows 41 – 81: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 56 sts
Row 82: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 50 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 83: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts
Row 84: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 52 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 60 sts
Row 85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 60 sts
Row 86: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 54 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 87: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 62 sts
Row 88: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 56 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 89: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 64 sts
Row 90: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 48, 54, 58 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. –66 sts
Row 91: TKS in ea st across. RP. –66 sts
Row 92: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Row 93: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 94: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. –70 sts
Row 95: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 70 sts
Row 96: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 72 sts
Row 97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 72 sts
Row 98: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 66 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 74 sts
Row 99: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 74 sts
Row 100: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 68 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 76 sts
Row 101: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76 sts
Row 102: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Row 103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 104: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 72 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 80 sts
Row 105: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts
Row 106: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 74 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82 sts
Row 107: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82 sts
Row 108: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. –84 sts
Row 109: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84 sts
Row 110: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 78 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 86 sts
Row 111: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 86 sts
Row 112: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 80 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 88 sts
Row 113: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts
Row 114: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 82 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. –90 sts
Row 115: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 90 sts
Row 116: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 84 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 92 sts
Row 117: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 92 sts
Row 118: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 86 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. –94 sts
Row 119: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 94 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Seaming the Sleeve:
Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the piece. Seam together using a whip stitch, starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving toward the shoulder, leaving 37 rows unseamed at the top. At the underarm of the sleeve, match the remaining opening to the front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows to cap the tops of the panels, overlapping the top by 4 stitches.
Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the front and back panels.
Close-up of the sleeve fitting.
Sleeve Border
With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam where the sleeve
is sewn together.
Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 times in the same stitch,
inserting hook as if to TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join with a
slip stitch in the top of the first dc.
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first stitch and 3 times in the next
st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in
the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves longer here by adding extra border rounds of LDC.
Close-up of sleeve border. Beware my join is not in the same place pictured as is written in the pattern – whoops!
HOOD:
The hood is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete. This hood has a very long point – it’s a lot of hood! If you prefer a slightly shorter hood, seed “Half Hood” instructions below. Either size hood can be made and attached to any size Elf Coat.
Working a Shortened Hood (Formerly the Half Hood): This is the alternative to the full size hood design which conserves a little yarn. Like the full hood, it is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete and seamed. You can use either hood interchangeably when creating your coat, though, no matter which size you are making! To work the Shortened Hood, skip one of the two non-increase rows between each increase row for the first 76 rows written (50 rows total). Then, resume the Hood pattern as normal at Row 77.
Shortened Hood
Full Hood
Ch 3.
Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of the next 2 chain stitches. RP. – 3 sts
Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Rows 3-4: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts
Row 5: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next
3 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Rows 6-7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts
Row 8: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.
Rows 9-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts
Row 11: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 12-13: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts
Row 14: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Rows 15-16: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts
Row 17: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 18-19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts
Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 21-22: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts
Row 23: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 24-25: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 19 sts
Row 26: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 27-28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts
Row 29: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 30-31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts
Row 32: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 33-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts
Row 35: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 36-37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts
Row 38: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 39-40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts
Row 41: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 42-43: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 31 sts
Row 44: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 33 sts
Row 45-46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts
Row 47: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 35 sts.
Rows 48-49: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 35 sts
Row 50: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 37 sts.
Rows 51-52: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts
Row 53: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 39 sts
Rows 54-55: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 39 sts
Row 56: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 41 sts
Rows 57-58: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 41 sts
Row 59: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 43 sts
Rows 60-61: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 43 sts
Row 62: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 45 sts
Rows 63-64: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts
Row 65: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 47 sts
Rows 66-67: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 49 sts
Rows 69-70: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 49 sts
Row 71: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 51 sts
Rows 72-73: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts
Row 74: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 53 sts
Rows 75-76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.
Row 77: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in ea of the next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 58 sts
Rows 78-79: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts
Row 80: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 63 sts
Rows 81-82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 63 sts
Row 83: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp) 4 times. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Rows 84-85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 86: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 16 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Rows 87-88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 73 sts
Row 89: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Rows 90-91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 92: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 83 sts
Rows 93-94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts
Row 95: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 88 sts
Rows 96-97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts
Row 98: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 93 sts
Rows 99-100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 93 sts
Row 101: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 98 sts
Rows 102-103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts
Row 104: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 103 sts
Rows 105-106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 103 sts
Row 107: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 108 sts
Rows 108-109: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 108 sts
Row 110: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 113 sts
Rows 111 – 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 113 sts
Row 113: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 118 sts
Rows 114 – 115: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 118 sts
Row 116: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 123
Rows 117 – 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 123 sts
Row 119: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 128 sts
Rows 120-121: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 128 sts
Row 122: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 133 sts
Rows 123-124: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 133 sts
Row 125: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 138 sts
Rows 126-127: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 138 sts
Row 128: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 143 sts
Rows 129-130: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 143 sts
Row 131: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 148 sts
Rows 132-133: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 148 sts
Row 134: TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 153 sts
Rows 135 – 151: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 153 sts Cut yarn and tie off.
Seaming the Hood
Fold the large triangle down the center length so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other and the wrong sides are out. With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, make a whip stitch seam starting at the point of the hood and seaming over the next 89 (Full Hood) or 63 (Half Hood) rows toward the opening of the hood.
Once this seam is complete, there should be 32 rows left un-seamed on either side. Turn your hood inside out so that the right sides are facing out again.
How did I get the number of rows to leave unseamed? It’s (8+8) to account for the small angled part on each side of the front panel, plus (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then (25-8= 17) to cover the portion of the top of the back panel not already covered by the cap of the sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded down to 64 to get an even number when I halved it – so 32 rows left unseamed on either side of the hood.
The hood then is seamed to the collar of the garment (once all sleeves and everything have been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching the points of the hood opening indicated by the red dots to the beginning of the collar on the front, also indicated by red dots.
Seam the hood around the collar opening, matching stitch for stitch.
Front Border and Closures
We’re almost done! Next up is to use four rows of LDC to add a border across the entire front opening, beginning with the hem, working up the opening of the garment, going around the edge of the hood, and working back down the other side of the front opening. After the third row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the buttons. For traditional buttonholes, stop to mark the placement after the second row.
Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of the skirt border rows.
Ch 3.
Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1 LDC in the side of each row across the next wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side of each row across the front panel, waist band, and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each LDC of the skirt border.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1. Traditional buttonholes mark placement here.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2. Loop buttonholes mark placement here.
Close-up of LDC border
Marking buttons:
Mark where your buttons will be on one side, and mark an equidistant space on the other side of the border for where you will place your loops or buttonholes. I began with one button/closure on the top and bottom edge of the waist band, then used this measurement (17 sts between each placement) to space the other buttons. I made five button placements total.
Once your button placements have been marked, begin the next row of LDC.
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you reach a button/closure marker. If you are on the button side, keep working LDC’s. If you are on the closure side, there are two options: You can chain a couple stitches and skip over working a couple stitches, which creates a buttonhole within the band and a tighter closure. I opted to use a loop closure, which leaves the front a little more open when buttoned.
If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big enough to fit the button through, then slip stitch in the same stitch. Continue working LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain loop at any point where a closure is marked.
If making traditional buttonholes, stop LDC and chain one before a marked stitch. Skip marked stitch and resume LDC until you reach the next marked stitch, repeat.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Stopping to chain a loop closure
After finishing the final border row, use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach each button at the marked location on the opposite side of the closures.
Weave in all of your ends, and you are finished with your Elf Coat! That is, unless I can interest you in a Corset Back Lacing, a Belt Tie for extra cinching, or those Pockets I mentioned earlier?
Pingback: Elf Coat Corset Lacing | Morale Fiber
Pingback: Elf Coat Pattern: Medium | Morale Fiber
Pingback: Elf Coat Pattern: Small | Morale Fiber
Pingback: Elf Coat Pattern PDF | Morale Fiber
I dont know what to do!!! I’m trying to make the pointed wedge and u stop at row 80 with increases then say to tie off. How do I complete the point? U dont say anything about decreasing to make the point on this panel. Please help!
Hi Tommi, please see my reply to your other comment here on the blog for an explanation of this piece 🙂 🙂
I thought the same thing until I read and reread the instructions. Towards the end the increases begins to come every other row, then every row. they are always increased at the point so that’s where the point begins to form. I am 3/4 of the way done with the bottom, I cannot wait to finish this amazing coat. I am also adding the corset. If you have completed yours by now( I just noticed the date you posted the comment ) send me a pic via email, I would love to see how it came out
If I wanted this to fit a much bigger girl….
Measurements
bust 60″
Waist 56″
Hips 67″
Hi Tiffany! This pattern is currently only available up to size Large. The pattern includes notes on the math I used to arrive at the different sizes – you can use this to alter the pattern for your adjustments. I do plan on extending the sizing options eventually, but I haven’t got there yet 🙂 🙂 Thanks and let me know if you have any other questions!
So I am making this as a gift. All the measurements fit except hip. Which is 52, how do you conpensate?
Hi Victoria! The hip is a pretty approximate measurement, because it will fall at different places in the skirt for different people depending on their height. My recommendation would be to work the skirt portion of the coat first, then see how long it comes out once the first row of the waistband is added. If it’s too small at the hip at that point, you have two options : 1. You could add an extra panel at the bottom and decrease the waistband a bit more or 2. You could add a lot more border across the front opening of the coat after it is finished. 🙂
I loved the idea of having one of these. I decided to make the large and I honestly didnt know if I could manage making this as it’s such a tremendous amount of yarn and well as the fact that I’m impatient and I really wanted to actually finish this. I finally finished!! It did come out linger than I really wanted but its okay. I do love how it turned it. Thank you for the pattern. I’d love to make more items if this nature so if you ever have anything else fae or elf like, please let me know. My email is ethelsquibb@yahoo.com.
That is so fantastic Ethel, I just love that you wanted to do it and you went for it and succeeded! <3 I do have lots of patterns if you'd like to check them out, they are linked at the top of the page under "Free Patterns" and "Paid Patterns" many of them are influenced by mythical or faerie styles 🙂 Much love peace and happiness to you, I hope you enjoy your Elf Coat and feel magical in it <3
I am so excited. I really wanted the same yarn & color that you used so I went to the website you posted and found it. You said 16 skeins so I bought 18. While I wait for it I have decided to practice the stitches I have not used before. The increases, decreases and the dbl crochet thingy!! It is probably going to take me a while but hey, who knows how long my winter in New England will last!! I hate cold weather and on some days it will give me an excuse to skip the gym!! If I get confused I’ll send you an email. Wish me luck
Good luck learning your new skills! I am definitely here if you have any questions, and maybe will even come out with some Tunisian tutorial videos sometimes soon (I’m hoping but I never know, lol!) Thanks for the comment and let me know if you have any questions! 🙂
Hi! You mentioned 2 types of crochets hooks but only the tunisian way down. How does it work for a regular hook? I have a special shaped hook cause my hand starts clamping when using a tunisian.
Hi Anica! The Tunisian style hook is necessary to make the majority of this pattern if you are going to follow the instructions as written. In the notes I do mention that it’s possible to create the coat using regular, non-tunisian stitching, but that requires modifying the pattern independently as instructions aren’t included for that. 🙂 The 3.50 mm regular crochet hook listed in the Materials section of the pattern is used to create the border on the bottom and front opening of the coat in regular crochet, but the rest is Tunisian style. Hope that helps!
How would you make the skirt of the coat longer? Also, I am trying to convert the pattern to knitting. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. (Fabulous coat, by the way)
Hi Khloella! There are two ways to make the coat’s skirt longer, the first is to add extra rows at the beginning of each panel without increasing (this would produce a coat with straighter torso / narrower waistline, better for a taller person with a longer torso) or you can add extra repeats of the rows of trim worked on the bottom of the skirt once the wedges are complete (this would be a coat with a fuller skirt, better for wider hips). As far as knitting goes, the stitches convert on pretty much a 1-1 ratio, but if you are knitting it I would be careful – these tend to end up longer when knitted anyway! There is more about altering length and converting to knitting in the general notes of the pattern as well.
Thanks so much! Wish me luck!!
Good Luck! 🙂
Hi, I love this coat and am anxious to make it! I am a real fan of Tunisian and this is perfect. My granddaughter and I are working on twin elf coats in different color schemes. Here’s my dilemma: I found a really beautiful yarn on Hobbii at a really nice price and ordered it (Bumbo Moonlight Acryl/Polyester blend). I didn’t know the mistake I’d made until the yarn arrived and it is actually a sport weight yarn and the recommended knitting needle size is 3.5. I am using a 3.5 regular hook size to make the first simple wedge. I do love the way it’s working up. This sport weight will make the coat less bulky which is also what I like. I am measuring the gauge and have found that I just need to increase the number of stitches as well as the number of rows to get this sport weight yarn to match the measurements you have provided. I wondered if there was a better hook size that would get a closer gauge without increasing the stitches and rows. Or if you have any other suggestions. Thanks!!
I would try your gauge out with the recommended hook size first, before planning any further alterations 🙂
Sorry, the clarify, I mean the size hook recommended by the pattern, not the hook size recommended on the label.
Hi,
I’m looking at the hood section, what does RP mean?
Hi there! RP = return pass. It’s the second part of a Tunisian Crochet row where you work your loops back off the hook. 🙂
Thank you, just wanted to make sure!
Awesome, no problem! 🙂
Hi! I have one small question – do you think that changing the tunisian crochet for single crochet would work? Or is it better to just learn it and do it the way you’ve shown?
Hi Izabela! There is a note about changing the stitch pattern along with some brief suggestions for doing so in the Intro of the original post, for the small size Elf Coat! 😁 I’d say it’s easier to just learn Tunisian than to try and calculate the changes, but it depends on if you can meet gauge or not.
Hey! I wanna make mine a bit larger by adding panels but how would I go about making the arm holes larger? I’m so in love with your patterns! all i got was 5.5 size tunisian hook and i’m gonna use just leftover yarn in this. I know… This is how you fail with patterns 😀 Hi from Finland!
LOL, I believe in you! No Fails just happy accidents 😉 I would say the easiest way to make the arm holes larger would be to add a few (how many depends on how much larger you are sizing up extra rows at the start of each sleeve where there are increases at both ends (so, increase rows). This will give you some space to work with for your seam. Then, instead of seaming your front panel and your back panel all the way up, leave some extra unseamed space at the armpit, widening the opening. When you seam the sleeve it might be a little awkward and you will probably have to fudge a little.
HOWEVER. 😉 If you are adding panels to the skirt, then you might also be adding width to the bodice, which might mean you could widen the armhole another wide, BUT, that depends on if you are changing the width of the front and back panels?
Hi can I print out this pattern? Not sure how. I do better with a hard copy to work from. Thankyou. Lisa
Hi Lisa! I’m not sure how to print out the web page, but I do have this pattern available as a PDF which is portable & printable & ad-free 🙂
You can find it in my Etsy shop here:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/729842105/crochet-pattern-elf-coat-tunisian?ref=shop_home_feat_2&bes=1
Thanks 🙂 🙂
Thankyou. I found it!!
Hi,
I love your elf coat,but I’m sort of a beginner/intermediate and I have trouble reading patterns,so my question is will there be a video tutorial on sm/med coats at all? Please
Thanks Michelle
Hi Michelle! At this point, I have thought about doing a video tutorial for this pattern, and I’d like to, but it’s one of those things I can’t definitely put on my list yet. 🙂 I can say for sure it won’t happen within the next 6 months, but after that we’ll see! 🙂 In the mean time, if you do decide to check out the written pattern and need help interpreting it, I’m available to help via my blog, e-mail, or Facebook!
http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber
or e-mail me directly at moralefiber(at)yahoo.com
Thanks so much for your interest!
Hello. I’ve been asked by a friend to make this and I’m a little confused over one thing. With this King Cole colour change wool, how on earth do you get the colours to match like that? May be a silly question but this is the first time I’ll have had a go at something like this.
Very much love the pattern and I can’t wait to hear from you x
Hi Mel! I used all of the same colorway for the King Cole and luckily got mostly the same dye lot – other than that, I just crocheted it, not really paying any attention to the color changes other than when I had to start a new skein mid-piece. That’s the only place it’ll be really noticeable, and for that I would just wind the skein into a ball until I found the proper color, then cut the yarn ball off (saving it for border rows) and join the new yarn skein at the right place 🙂 Hope that helps!
OMG.
My sister loved this so much, I thought I would give it a go for her birthday.
I cannot for the life of me figure out where to stick the bloody hook in to get the lines straight.
I have tried to follow numerous tutorials and they all look soooo simple, but mine just looks like a dogs breakfast
Lol! I’m sorry about that. It can be really tricky figuring out where the place your hook. Right now I only have the Tunisian tutorials linked in the pattern post, written ones with pictures. I do hope to get a tutorial video available on my Youtube Channel soon, if you are interested you can subscribe to get notified when I post:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCS8Nj5BMXw6nutMIK3sSwYw?view_as=subscriber
If you want to send me a picture of your piece, I’d be happy to see if I can diagnose your issue 🙂 just e-mail me at moralefiber(at)yahoo.com or send a pic to me on my Facebook page!
Hi, Thanks for your comments. I have posted a photo on your facebook page of my progress (or lack thereof!) I have just started the back panel and am hoping it all comes together as I have had to add skirt wedges in order to make it the right size for my sister. Was lots of fun getting 210 stitches on one needle to do the waist band!!
Oh wow that sounds like a lot of stitches! I did see your post, it’s looking very good so far <3
Is the Tunisian hook size 6.5mm or US6.5, which ends up being about 4mm – 4.5mm? I ask mostly for clarity, but also because of the fact that the hook used for the single crochet method is 4mm.
Thank you so much for this beautiful pattern!! I’m looking forward to starting this project!
Hi Rae! Excellent question – the Tunisian hook size is 6.5 mm or “K” size hook 🙂 The regular hook substitute is much smaller, but you can use any size needed to achieve the right gauge of course. I hope I get to see what you make – be sure to let me know if you have any other questions!
Pingback: Elf Coat FAQ | Morale Fiber
I am continuing to struggle with seaming my sleeves to the bodice panels. Looking at the pictures, I THINK my problem is in the back panel – mine is much more pointed at the top, and the sleeve piece doesn’t fit well. Before I embark on remaking it for what is (I think) the fourth time, I’d appreciate any thoughts you may have on what I’m doing wrong. To refresh your recollection, I’m making size large, crochet version, in Unforgettable. (Happy to take a picture if that would help!)
Hi Amy! Exactly how are the sleeves not fitting to the bodice panels? Does there seem to be too many rows, or too few, and on which pieces? The Back panel may appear more pointed at the top if you are working Unforgettable combined with gauge differences, I’m sure you’ve got the right stitch count but it may help to block your pieces before seaming them! And yes if you have a picture that might help diagnose the issue 🙂 Thanks for your patience! <3
I’ve looked at the pattern again – on the blog this time. And it looks like the pattern has been updated since the .pdf was created, in a way that may help me. I’ll give it another whirl – may not need to re-make the back. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Thanks for your response!
Thanks so much for letting me know! I’ll be sure to double check the PDF against the Blog version to make sure everything is up to date 🙂
The blog won’t let pictures post in the comments but you can definitely reach me through e-mail at moralefiber(at)yahoo.com, and attach pictures that way 🙂
Your patterns are beautiful. Thank you
Aww thank you so much for the feedback and thanks for visiting! 🙂 🙂
1. i cant believe you have offered such a beautiful pattern – FOR FREE!
2. not only offered the pattern, but all the working going into it
3. AND you spend so much time replying to people to help them make the pattern!
just wow – you are as beautiful as your coat! one day i hope to make this. atm i have a new granddaughter who is taking up all my knitting/crochet time, but i KNOW one day i will make this 😀
thank you SO MUCH!
Awww! You are gonna make me cry now 😉 😉 Thank you so much for your amazingly kind words. I have enjoyed so much seeing what others have made from my pattern – it has been well worth the effort!! <3
Hello Regina!
Thank you so much for sharing this and creating it in multiple sizes! I’m finally going to make myself one once I finish this blanket for my mother-in-law. However, my bust is about 2 inches more than the posted measurements for this large size. Do you think there will be enough stretching with #4 acrylic yarn or should I modify it? If modifying, how do you suggest I do so?
Thank you for your time!
~Ashley
Hi Ashley, thanks so much for your kind words! With a #4 weight acrylic yarn, I’d guess that you’d likely have to add additional rows of the border LDC in order to get the required extra 2″ of bust – but fortunately that’s pretty easy, maybe taking only about 2 extra rows of the front border stitching to get the 2″ depending on your gauge! 🙂 🙂 You may not have to depending on how much it stretches, but if you do need the extra inches the front border is added on last so it won’t require any re-doing 🙂
Oh awesome, I’m glad I asked! I was about to make it more difficult on myself by adding width to the back panel then figure out the math to try to keep the waist somewhat the same.
Absolutely 😀 Happy to help!
Hi! This might be a dumb question but how do you tie off those skirt pieces? I’ve practiced how to crochet them but I don’t know how to tie them off. On the first piece I didn’t notice that I should make return pass and now my second piece I’m wondering how to tie it off neatly.
Okay it definitely was a silly question and I figured it out. 😄
Lol! No it wasn’t a silly question at all! But I’m glad you figured it out. For anyone else wondering, it’s just a matter of completing your final return pass, then cutting the yarn and drawing the yarn tail through your last stitch completely 🙂 🙂 Thanks so much, hope you’re enjoying the pattern!
Pingback: Fox Claw Elf Coat | Morale Fiber
Will a Susan Bates Tunisian 6.0mm hook work? I can’t find anything for the recommended size in Susan Bates. Also will I need to purchase more yarn to make up for the size difference in the hooks?
Hi Tiffany! That all depends on your gauge. If you meet the gauge measurements for that size hook (check the gauge listed in the pattern) then you can use that size hook and nothing about the pattern will need changed 🙂
I just wanted to say thank you so much for posting this pattern. I just made it as my second crochet project ever and have been working on it since March until about a week ago. The coat turned out beautiful in a set of Autumn colors. It was for my girlfriend’s birthday, and because of you I was able to give her an amazing gift that she loves. I wouldn’t have been able to do it without your well written instructions, and I appreciate the help in making that day even more special for her 🙂
Awww, oh my gosh! That’s the super nicest feedback to get, thank you!! I’m so pleased you were able to tackle this pattern and that your friend loves it – that makes my day! 🙂 🙂
at some point I’m going to make this coat for my self I have just one question can I do the whole coat in a #4 weight yarn or do I need to also use the #3 weight DK yarn as well
Hi Kerrie, great question! The entire coat is done in EITHER the #3 weight OR the #4 weight, but not both. Measurements are given for the DK weight gauge project, so if you do it in #4 it may be bigger than described – see the notes section details on gauge and weight for more info when you start 🙂 and let me know if you have any other questions 😊
thank you 🙂 for getting back to me so that the 16 skeins of the #3 weight should make the whole coat or the 18 skeins for #4weight
I was soooo excited when I found this pattern in Large, I have been lusting for so long at the small pattern and never thought to just Google to see if there is a Large version. Anyway, I finally find this work of art and I am in tears because it might as well be in some unknown language that everyone who has ever known how to speak it or read it died of centuries ago, because I don’t know how to crochet in the Tunisian crochet stitch, and no matter what I do, I can’t get these long hooks to work for me. I am doomed to just admire this coat from afar! Have a wonderful day Sweetie.
Merry Christmas 🎄☃️🎄
Tina,
You can use an American sc instead of TKS, I believe. It’s somewhere in these posts.
Merry Christmas
It is! It’ll be in the notes section, definitely in the original Size Small post but it should be mentioned in the others too – I’ll check that! 🙂
Hi Regina,
I love the pattern, busy with it in large and single crochet. I’m making it a bit different, when ready I will show you a picture. I have a question, at the right front you have written that every row you decrease at the end, but shouldn’t it be in the even rows in the beginning?? other wise both parts will become oblique. please hope you will let me know
thx
José
Hi Jose! If you aren’t working this patter in Tunisian, that’s true. However, in Tunisian you DO decrease at the end of every row, because Tunisian doesn’t turn at the end of the row to work in the opposite direction. The notes for how to translate this pattern into single crochet goes over that detail 🙂
Hi Regina, I’m creating my very first piece of crochet clothing and I have decided that the Elf Coat is the one! However, I’m a bit confused about the term “tie off.” Based off of what I’ve seen online, it means work a row of slip stitches across the top, but my over-thinking brain isn’t sure that this is what you mean. Can you clarify? Thanks!
No, this pattern does not work a finishing row of slip stitch on the Tunisian, because all of those edges are either made into seams or worked with borders later 🙂 You can if you want to, but I don’t – I simply finished the final row, then cut the yarn and tie off.
It took me far too long to figure out what pick up an lp was 😅 it’s only mentioned on one other post in reference to a different pattern.
Figured it out though, but an explanation at the beginning would have been helpful in the key.
First ever attempt at tunisian crochet using your tutorials and it’s going well so far.
Good point Rebecca! Honestly that instruction is an ancient relic, left over from some very old Tunisian patterns I’d read and written. I will make a note to change or explain that on the next update!