Update! : To see all available sizes for the FREE Elf Coat pattern and all the free add-ons to the pattern, visit the Elf Coat FAQ page for links!
I am very excited to have finally finished my Elf Coat size medium! I rolled out the pattern early, and then worked my butt off so that I could add all the fancy costume photos! I was also working on the Elf Coat size Large, which I am happy to say is now available, also for free, here on my blog!
There is also a purchaseable PDF pattern, which includes all three sizes and the corset back lacing tutorial, available in my Ravelry Store and Etsy Shop! If you have questions about this pattern, please check out my Elf Coat FAQ page for some of the most common queries 🙂
I hope you love this Medium size Elf Coat and pretty please tag me on Facebook, Instagram, etc @MoraleFiber so I can see what amazing things you are making <3 <3 Also we have a great Facebook Group, growing every day, dedicated to magical crochet of all sorts!
Elf Coat Instructions
The Medium is based on an 11-panel skirt, made from 5 pointed panels and 6 simple panels.
Finished Measurements (approximate):
Waist: ~38″
Bust: ~38″
Hip: ~40″
Sleeve: 22″ (measured armpit to hem)
Length: ~37″
This pattern, based on an 11-wedge skirt (5 pointed wedges, 6 simple wedges) is equivalent to size Medium. Further tips on custom sizing can be found in the pattern. Large can be found here. Many people have asked how to size up – there are not yet plus sizes written, but an XL will be based on a 15 wedge skirt (7 pointed 8 simple), and 2XL will be based on a 17 wedge skirt (8 pointed 9 simple). The math of the pattern is explained in the notes to each section and can be modified following the number of wedges in the skirt’s size requirements.
Notes on yarn: I chose to work this size in Red Heart Unforgettable, instead of the DK weight King Cole Riot. I had already started two panels in this yarn, and I was curious to see how it would work up in both color and sizing. Since I haven’t completed the piece yet, I’m not sure how many skeins will be required for this size, so I have estimated.
Materials
6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook
Red Heart Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 16
Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”
Techniques Used:
Chain (ch)
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) – stitch used for each coat piece. Tutorial can be found on my blog here
TKS Increase (TKS inc): Increasing in Tunisian Knit Stitch – see TKS tutorial
TKS Decrease (TKS dec): Decreasing in Tunisian Knit stitch – see TKS tutorial
Linked Double Crochet (LDC): Creating a row of double crochet that are linked in the middle. Tutorial can be found on my blog here.
Slip Stitch (Sl st): Used selectively for seaming
Whip Stitch: Sewing stitch made with a tapestry needle with yarn as thread, used for seaming.
Video Tutorials: I have created a playlist of video tutorials for working all the Tunisian stitches and other special techniques needed for this design, please refer to those on my YouTube channel at the link below! 😊
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i8JEaMwoXg&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJGbejoOm
Technique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful crochet technique and I love it and highly recommend learning if you haven’t. But since this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just rows of regular stitches with some increases and decreases – that’s really it) a different technique can easily be substituted in. As long as your stitches match the gauge given, you could work this pattern in regular single crochet or regular knit stitch.
One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet or one regular knit/purl stitch.
I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single crochet, and obtained a close gauge using a 4.0 mm hook.
Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does wonders for your finished piece, especially with Tunisian crochet which tends to curl. Blocking for this piece can be done simply by laying your piece out on a foam mat, using blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat and pretty and in the right shape. Using a spray bottle and plain water, wet the piece, then let dry. This works great with wool based yarns (King Cole Riot DK) and moderately well with acrylics (RH Unforgettable).
Above: Large size Elf Coat laid flat for blocking
Okay, phew. That was a lot of info.
I tried to provide the answers to what I thought might be common questions for this pattern, based on what people have asked about similar patterns 🙂 If any of it seems confusing, please don’t hesitate to ask me here on the blog, or via my Facebook page
Now on to the pattern!
Elf Coat – Medium
Instructions
The pieces of this coat can be completed in any order.
Simple Wedge (Make 6)
Both the simple wedges and the pointed wedges can be shortened by subtracting 8 rows right after the initial Row 1.
Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.
Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts.
Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts.
Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.Pointed Wedge (Make 5)
Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 20-27: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next 8 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 29-32: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next 9 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 34-37: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next 10 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 39-42: TKS across, RP. – 25 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next 11 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 44-47: TKS across, RP. – 27 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. RP. – 33 sts
Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next 16 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 59: TKS across, RP. – 37 sts
Row 60: TKS in the next 17 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 61: TKS across, RP. – 39 sts
Row 62: TKS in the next 18 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts
Row 64: TKS in the next 19 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts
Row 66: TKS in the next 20 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 71: TKS in the next 25 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 72: TKS in the next 26 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 73: TKS in the next 27 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 74: TKS in the next 28 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 75: TKS in the next 29 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 76: TKS in the next 30 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 78: TKS in the next 32 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 stsCut yarn and tie off.
Arrange the panels alternately so that the sequence begins and ends with a simple wedge. The first example is for the small size, which begins and ends with a pointed wedge (already seamed and bordered). The second example is the Medium size, which arranges to begin and end with a simple wedge (not seamed or bordered yet).
Skirt Construction
Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges, seam all blocks together with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn.
Skirt Border:
The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked Double Crochet, worked back and forth, with increases at the point of each pointed wedge.
With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of the skirt hem.
Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at the point of each pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this increase.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each point where the increase was marked.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each ch-1 from the increase points of the previous row.Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie off. You can work extra border here if you want the skirt longer!
Close-up of the increases at the point of each pointed wedge
WAIST:
The waist is worked directly onto the top of the wedges that make up the skirt. One stitch is skipped on every block, to create a slight decrease in width to accentuate the waist. This means that the total number of waistband stitches after Row 1 will equal (14 sts x Number of Total Wedges).
Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the tops of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 10 times. RP. – 154 sts
To modify the size here, add or subtract any rows after the first one to make it longer or shorter. To create Inset pockets, see “Pockets” Instructions, below, before completing the waistband. Afterthought / Outside pockets may be completed after the waistband is finished.
Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP.
Back Panel:
The back panel is worked the length of stitches that equals half of the number of stitches in the waist. In this size, the waist is 154 stitches. Divided by two, that’s 77 stitches.
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 77.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 75 sts. Return pass (RP). – 77 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 77 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 69 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 75 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 67 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 65 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 63 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 61 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 59 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 57 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 51 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 40: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 47 sts
Row 42: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 45 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 43 sts
Row 44: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 41 sts
Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 39 sts
Row 46: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 37 sts
Row 47: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 35 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33 sts
Row 49: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 31 sts
Row 50: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 27 sts
Row 52: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 25 stsCut yarn and tie off.
Front Panel – Right
The front panels are worked with the length of stitches equaling the half of the waistband that the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two, so each panel will be a quarter of the total waistband stitches. 154 / 4 = 38.5. Since that’s not a whole number, I will round down to 38 and fudge the seam a tiny fraction.
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 38.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 36 sts. Return pass (RP). – 38 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 38 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 37 sts.
Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 36 sts.
Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 35 sts.
Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 34 sts.
Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 33 sts.
Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 32 sts.
Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 31 sts.
Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 30 sts.
Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 29 sts.
Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 28 sts.
Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 27 sts.
Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 26 sts.
Row 39: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25 sts
Row 40: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 sts
Row 41: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23 sts
Row 42: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22 sts
Row 43: TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21 sts
Row 44: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20 sts
Row 45: TKS in ea of the next 16 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19 sts
Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 47: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 48: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 49: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 50: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 51: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 52: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 stsFront Panel – Left
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 38.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 36 sts. Return pass (RP). – 38 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 38 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 35 sts. RP – 37 sts.
Row 28: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 34 sts. RP – 36 sts.
Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 33 sts. RP – 35 sts.
Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts. RP – 34 sts.
Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts. RP – 33 sts.
Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts. RP – 32 sts.
Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts. RP – 31 sts.
Row 34: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. RP – 30 sts.
Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. RP – 29 sts.
Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. RP – 28 sts.
Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. RP – 27 sts.
Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. RP – 26 sts.
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. RP – 25 sts.
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. RP – 24 sts.
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. RP – 23 sts.
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. RP – 22 sts.
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. RP – 21 sts.
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. RP – 20 sts.
Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. RP – 19 sts.
Row 46: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 47: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 48: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 49: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 50: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 51: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 52: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 stsCut yarn and tie off.
Seam the Back & Front Panels
Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch the sides of the panels together so that the long angles face each other. Stitch together the straight sides, not the angles. Once the bodice is sewn together, line the flat bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach using a 3.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn by working a slip stitch through both pieces.
Sleeve (Make 2):
Pictured Above: Old-style sleeve (decreases on the outside of the row). Pictured Below: New-style sleeves (decreases placed centrally)
The sleeves for all sizes begin with a 16-chain length, then work a portion of increases creating a slant that lines up with the slanted edge of the bodice. The sleeve then works decreases to size down for the main part of the arm (worked evenly), then increases again for the flared sleeve.
The former design placed the decrease portion at the ends of the rows, but the new updated version is written so that the decreases are placed centrally, in the middle of the row. This allows the fabric to slant downward to follow the natural line of the shoulder. If you prefer working the old style, simply place the decreases at the ends of the rows instead 😊
Ch 16.
Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts
Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts
Row 3: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 20 sts
Row 4: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 22 sts
Row 5: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 24 sts
Row 6: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 26 sts
Row 7: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 28 sts
Row 8: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 30 sts
Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 34 sts
Row 11: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 36 sts
Row 12: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 38 sts
Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts
Row 14: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts
Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 38 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts
Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 46 sts
Row 17: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 42 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts
Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 44 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 50 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 52 sts
Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts
Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 56 sts
Row 22: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 52 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 23: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 54 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 60 sts
Row 24: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 56 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 25: TKS in ea st across. – 62 sts
Row 26: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 58 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 27: TKS in ea st across. – 64 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 60 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 66 sts
Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 60 sts
Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 56 sts
Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 54 sts
Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 52 sts
Rows 36– 76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 52 sts
Row 77: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 46 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 54 sts
Row 78: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 54 sts
Row 79: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 48 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 56 sts
Row 80: TKS in ea st across. RP. –56 sts
Row 81: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 50 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts
Row 83: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 52 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 60 sts
Row84: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 60 sts
Row85: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 54 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 86: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 62 sts
Row 87: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 56 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 64sts
Row 89: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 58 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 66 sts
Row 90: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 66 sts
Row 91: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Row 92: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 93: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 70 sts
Row 94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 70 sts
Row 95: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. –72 sts
Row 96: TKS in ea st across. RP. –72 sts
Row 97: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 66 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 74 sts
Row 98: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 74 sts
Row 99: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 68 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 76 sts
Row 100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76 sts
Row 101: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Row 102: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 103: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 72 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. –80 sts
Row 104: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts
Row 105: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 74 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82 sts
Row 106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82 sts
Row 107: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 84 sts
Row 108: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84 sts
Row 109: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 78 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 86 sts
Row 110: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 86 sts
Row 111: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next80 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82, 88, 92 sts
Row 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts
Row 113: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 82 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 90 sts
Row 114: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 90 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Seaming the Sleeve:
Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the piece. Seam together using a whip stitch, starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving toward the shoulder, leaving 30 rows unseamed at the top. At the underarm of the sleeve, match the remaining opening to the front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows to cap the tops of the panels, overlapping the top by 4 stitches.
Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the front and back panels.
Close-up of the sleeve fitting.
Sleeve Border
With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam where the sleeve is sewn together.
Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 times in the same stitch, inserting hook as if to TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join with a slip stitch in the top of the first dc.
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first stitch and 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves longer here by adding extra border rounds of LDC.
Close-up of sleeve border. Beware my join is not in the same place pictured as is written in the pattern – whoops!
HOOD:
The hood is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete. This hood has a very long point – it’s a lot of hood! If you prefer a slightly shorter hood, seed “Half Hood” instructions below. Either size hood can be made and attached to any size Elf Coat.
Working a Shortened Hood (Formerly the Half Hood): This is the alternative to the full size hood design which conserves a little yarn. Like the full hood, it is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete and seamed. You can use either hood interchangeably when creating your coat, though, no matter which size you are making! To work the Shortened Hood, skip one of the two non-increase rows between each increase row for the first 76 rows written (50 rows total). Then, resume the Hood pattern as normal at Row 77.
Shortened Hood
Full HoodCh 3.
Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of the next 2 chain stitches. RP. – 3 sts
Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Rows 3-4: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts
Row 5: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next
3 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 stsRows 6-7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts
Row 8: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.
Rows 9-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts
Row 11: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 12-13: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts
Row 14: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Rows 15-16: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts
Row 17: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 18-19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts
Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 21-22: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts
Row 23: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 24-25: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 19 sts
Row 26: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 27-28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts
Row 29: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 30-31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts
Row 32: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 33-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts
Row 35: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 36-37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts
Row 38: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 39-40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts
Row 41: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 42-43: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 31 sts
Row 44: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 33 sts
Row 45-46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts
Row 47: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 35 sts.
Rows 48-49: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 35 sts
Row 50: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 37 sts.
Rows 51-52: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts
Row 53: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 39 sts
Rows 54-55: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 39 sts
Row 56: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 41 sts
Rows 57-58: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 41 sts
Row 59: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 43 sts
Rows 60-61: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 43 sts
Row 62: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 45 sts
Rows 63-64: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts
Row 65: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 47 sts
Rows 66-67: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 49 sts
Rows 69-70: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 49 sts
Row 71: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 51 sts
Rows 72-73: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts
Row 74: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 53 sts
Rows 75-76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.
Row 77: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in ea of the next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 58 sts
Rows 78-79: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts
Row 80: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 63 sts
Rows 81-82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 63 sts
Row 83: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp) 4 times. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Rows 84-85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 86: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 16 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Rows 87-88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 73 sts
Row 89: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Rows 90-91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 92: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 83 sts
Rows 93-94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts
Row 95: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 88 sts
Rows 96-97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts
Row 98: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 93 sts
Rows 99-100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 93 sts
Row 101: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 98 sts
Rows 102-103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts
Row 104: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 103 sts
Rows 105-106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 103 sts
Row 107: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 108 sts
Rows 108-109: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 108 sts
Row 110: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 113 sts
Rows 111 – 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 113 sts
Row 113: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 118 sts
Rows 114 – 115: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 118 sts
Row 116: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 123
Rows 117 – 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 123 sts
Row 119: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 128 sts
Rows 120-121: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 128 sts
Row 122: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 133 sts
Rows 123-124: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 133 sts
Row 125: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 138 sts
Rows 126-127: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 138 sts
Row 128: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 143 sts
Rows 129-130: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 143 sts
Row 131: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 148 sts
Rows 132-133: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 148 sts
Row 134: TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 153 sts
Rows 135 – 151: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 153 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Seaming the Hood
Fold the large triangle down the center length so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other and the wrong sides are out. With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, make a whip stitch seam starting at the point of the hood and seaming over the next 55 rows toward the opening of the hood.
Once this seam is complete, there should be 32 rows left un-seamed on either side.Turn your hood inside out so that the right sides are facing out again.
How did I get the number of rows to leave unseamed? It’s (8+8) to account for the small angled part on each side of the front panel, plus (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then (25-8= 17) to cover the portion of the top of the back panel not already covered by the cap of the sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded down to 64 to get an even number when I halved it – so 32 rows left unseamed on either side of the hood.
The hood then is seamed to the collar of the garment (once all sleeves and everything have been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching the points of the hood opening indicated by the red dots to the beginning of the collar on the front, also indicated by red dots.
Seam the hood around the collar opening, matching stitch for stitch.
Front Border and Closures
We’re almost done! Next up is to use four rows of LDC to add a border across the entire front opening, beginning with the hem, working up the opening of the garment, going around the edge of the hood, and working back down the other side of the front opening. After the third row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the buttons. For traditional buttonholes, stop to mark the placement after the second row.
Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of the skirt border rows.
Ch 3.
Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1 LDC in the side of each row across the next wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side of each row across the front panel, waist band, and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each LDC of the skirt border.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1. Traditional buttonholes mark placement here.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2. Loop buttonholes mark placement here.Close-up of LDC border
Marking Buttons
Mark where your buttons will be on one side, and mark an equidistant space on the other side of the border for where you will place your loops or buttonholes. I began with one button/closure on the top and bottom edge of the waist band, then used this measurement (17 sts between each placement) to space the other buttons. I made five button placements total.
Once your button placements have been marked, begin the third or fourth row of LDC.
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you reach a button/closure marker. If you are on the button side, keep working LDC’s. If you are on the closure side, there are two options: You can chain a couple stitches and skip over working a couple stitches, which creates a buttonhole within the band and a tighter closure. I opted to use a loop closure, which leaves the front a little more open when buttoned.
If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big enough to fit the button through, then slip stitch in the same stitch. Continue working LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain loop at any point where a closure is marked.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Stopping to chain a loop closure
After finishing the final border row, use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach each button at the marked location on the opposite side of the closures.
After you have completed this, you are finished with the Elf Coat! Unless of course I can interest you in that Corset Back Lacing? How about a Belt Tie for extra cinching? And don’t forget about those Pocket options!
Thank you and I hope you are inspired to create a work of wearable art all your own <3 The best part of designing patterns and sharing them online is that I get to help create artwork with people all around the world. Thank you, thank you, thank you for visiting and creating art with me! And of course, if you have any questions or feedback please feel welcome to comment <3 Now, here’s a bunch of pictures! Man, I really love costumes.
<3 MF
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Hi Regina, you’re so quick with this medium size, can’t wait to see the large version. It’s so astonishing and generous of you to share this all for free, I thank you for that.
About the pattern, I saw that the waist en the bust both are 38″ is that correct, because I think most women has a larger size for the bust than waist?
Again thx for sharing. I’m still busy with the wedges so hopefully if I am ready for the other parts the larger version is out 🙂
Thanks so much! And yes, the bust and waist sizes are the same – I didn’t shape the bodice to make it bigger for a few reasons, one is that the material is stretchy and should naturally accommodate a little more width in the bust. Also, the piece is eventually going to have corset lacing so that the waist can be adjusted down in size 🙂 so glad you enjoy the pattern! I love this design too and I’m sure I will eventually add some options for fuller bust to waist ratios too since I can’t stop making these! Lol 🙂
Dear Regina, Have a question…..
Do you have any idea when you’ll finish the large version of this beautiful coat. I’m almost ready with the wegdes and it would be so nice if i can go on with the rest of it.
thx José XXX
Hi Jose! I am just finishing up the Large size written pattern – it is very very close to being done! 🙂 🙂 I can’t wait 🙂
Hi Regina,
thx for answering, I can’t hardly wait too.
and again thank you so much for your generous gesture to share the pattern for free
XXX José
Hello, Regina! You are beyond amazing! I need to size up from a small to a medium Elf Coat with Riot DK but the pattern & gauge are for Red Heart Unforgettable only. Can you please help me so I can get started again, I can barely stand it! Thank you so much for sharing you incredible gift with us all!🙂
Hi Sara, I am happy to help! Can you clarify what information you are looking for?
The pattern and gauge are for Riot Dk and Unforgettable are in all the patterns to my knowledge. both gauge information is included in the notes
Your work is amazing – thank you for sharing your magic
Thank you so much 🙂 🙂 🙂 It really is my pleasure!
Oh Em GEE! Will this ever be a crochet pattern? It is amazeballs!
Hi Red! This is a crochet pattern, but it’s Tunisian crochet (which if you already know how to crochet it’s easy to learn and I highly encourage trying it!) If you are interested in trying it in just regular crochet, there are some tips for adjusting listed in the original post here:
https://moralefiber.blog/2019/02/02/elf-coat-pattern/
Thanks for visiting! 🙂 🙂
How can I buy the printed pattern? Or could you please send me it in email?I’ve made the smaller one and I’m hooked I totally love this pattern.
Many thanks
Bev Wells
Hi Beverley! I am so glad you like the design 🙂 🙂 I am working on finishing up the third size, Large, for this design and I won’t be releasing the printable PDF version of the pattern until that is completed – I am hoping to have this done by Aug-September or so! If you are interested in the printable version be sure to follow my blog and/or my FB page at http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber – I’ll be making a big announcement when I’m done! 😀
Hi Regina,
I love this pattern so very much and I’m looking forward to making it a great deal! I even bought the beautiful rainbow king Cole yarn!
I do have a question out of curiosity. You see I’m a double amputtee and i wear prosthetic legs below my knees. So i was wondering if I decided I wanted the whole jacket to be a bit longer (to cover my legs a tad more) how would you recommend I do that?
Should I add some extra rows to the waist panel or perhaps add some rows to the beginning straight rows of each wedge panel before they start increasing?
I’d be really grateful for your advice and thankyou ome much for this magical and mystical pattern!
Grace
Hi Grace! If you’d like to add length to this project, you can definitely go with either adding more rows to the waistband or adding more rows to each panel before beginning the increases 🙂 Either would work great! Depending on how much longer you want to make it, you could also add more rows to the middle of the panels rather than the waistband or the beginning of the panels. Really adding rows anywhere will work well, as long as you are consistent in your placement! Best of luck and I would love to see what you have made when you are finished! <3 <3 <3
Thanks so much for your reply Regina I really appreciate how quickly you answered my question. You must really appreciate your fans (and love crochet haha) I’m still waiting for my wool to arrive from loveknitting but I live in Aus so could take awhile. In the mean time I’m making lotus duster 2.0 with hood and sleeves, using left over wool I have around. However because of plys, weight and tension variations it’s a bit scrunchy would you recommend blocking this pattern? Would wet or steam blocking work best? And because it’s a jacket should to i block in stages? (Blocking questions may also applyto elf jacket once i start) Sorry for bombarding you with questions. Thanks again!
You are so welcome Grace! And yes I do really appreciate my fans (and love crochet), lol! I definitely would recommend blocking the Lotus Duster – my traditional method of blocking this garment is to use a dress form, arranging the entire piece on the form once it is all finished and using a water bottle, spray the piece liberally. Take the hem of the garment and shake it gently to get the stitches to settle in a downward direction, do this around the bottom circle of the hem allowing gravity to do most of the work. Keep spraying until it is very damp, then do the same with the sleeves and allow to dry 🙂
Fantastic Reggie you are just the best ever! I will post photos of both jackets once complete!. I know you’re away for awhile, thanks to th but since I spent a small fortune on wool for this project once you return could you direct me as to where I can purchase these patterns? Seems only fair to pay you for such amazing ideas! Cheers again!
I would love to see photos! The best way to get them to me is through e-mail (moralefiber(at)yahoo.com) or through Facebook messenger to my business page (www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber) 🙂
The Lotus Duster pattern is available as a purchasable PDF through my Etsy shop or Ravelry store, which you can find through the links at the top of my blog (in the menu) or here:
http://www.etsy.com/shop/moralefiber
http://www.ravelry.com/stores/morale-fiber
Thanks so much again! You are awesome sauce!
Hey again, so sorry to bother you with all these questions I was just wondering something. The medium pattern says 6 simple panels and 5 wedges. But that means simple panels are on the ends I was wondering since you’ve obviously made both which looks better? Could I make 6 wedges and 5 simple panels for the medium if you think it looks better or does that change the pattern calculations for the medium size too much? Thanks so much for all your advice!
Hi Grace, that’s a great question! For the Medium panels if made as written ,then the simple panels will be on the ends – I think this looks just as good as the pointed panels being on the ends, but if you prefer you can rearrange the number of panels and the style any way you like. Since all panels start with a 15-stitch long top, you can switch the pointed and simple ones out according to your preference 🙂
Thanks again so much!!!
This is amazing, you are so talented and thanks for sharing 😊
Thank you so much! I am so glad you like it 🙂 🙂
So I was doing th math on the medium pattern and noticed that the front and back panels total 153 stitches and the waist, where they attach, is 154. Is that intentional?
Hi Jessica –
Yes, there are a few places were the numbers are rounded down or up by one to make the math easier 🙂
Ok. Was just wondering. This is my first attempt at clothing. Thanks for the clarification. 😊
Absolutely! 🙂 🙂
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I love this coat! Would it be possible for you to provide instructions for this coat in a child’s size 4-6? This would be perfect for my youngest granddaughter.
Hi Cindy! I do plan on eventually doing child’s sizes for this piece, but I have been working on this design for a really long time, and so I am planning on taking a bit of a break from it now that I have finished the main adult sizes. So it probably won’t be for a while!
Hi Regina
Really love the pattern and enjoying my first foray into Tunisian crochet!
I notice that the medium pattern sleeves don’t have the extra 4 rows to go across the top of the fronts and back. Is this intentional and if so do you then need to adjust the seam on the hood to leave the extra stitches needed?
Thanks
Hi Nikki, the Medium size should have the same construction around the collar as the small size, meaning the sleeves will overlap by four rows over the front and back panels. If this is missing from the instructions, I’ll go back in and add that 🙂 thanks for spotting that!
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Hello,
I am hoping to make this during the fall/winter, but I was wondering if you knew the exact number of skeins needed. Also, could I use a cheaper kind of yarn like Red Heart Super Saver? I can’t tell if the two kinds are the same from pictures.
Thanks!
P.S. I absolutely love this pattern… Great job!
Thanks so much Heidi! This pattern uses 16 skeins of Red Heart Unforgettable for the Medium size, which is about 4,300 yards. You might be able to substitute Red Heart Super Saver successfully, but it just depends on your gauge – look over the gauge guidelines and test swatch with some Super Saver to see if you can match the gauge given in the pattern (you may need to change hook sizes to get the right gauge). If you can match the gauge, then you are good to go with the RHSS 🙂
Thanks so much! Can’t wait to make it!
Love this pattern! I’ve completed the “skirt” and am now onto the waist. My question is what Afghan/Tunisian hook did you use to complete so many stitches?
I’m using a Susan bates afghan hook and struggled fitting the pointed wedge and have no idea what to do with the waist.
Hi Alison! I use a 13.5 inch long aluminum hook with a stopper at the end. There’s no brand on the hook, but similar long hooks are sold in hobby stores. You can also get long Tunisian hooks with flexible portions for longer projects 🙂
Hey Regina,
Um so sliiiiight problem. I made the coat and i’m currently doing all the borders. the coat fits fine at the waist and the arms are fine and I did the extra details for the panels to adjust for a larger bust, but even with the adjustments the jacket won’t close over my chest. Should I chest keep doing border rows until I close it the gap? Its fairly significant….or do I need to take the whole thing apart and remake the chest panels?? Any suggestions would be most welcome! Or maybe theres a way to stretch the panels?? I’m lost since this is my first big project i’m trying to complete. Thanks heaps for your time!
Grace
Oh no! Sorry to hear that Grace. How significant is the gap? It sounds like your best bet is to keep working border rows until the front of the coat closes to your satisfaction. You might end up with a pretty thick border on the front, but in my opinion that’s much better than having to rip apart and make adjustments (which, depending on the yarn you used, might be very difficult to accomplish anyway). Can I ask what modifications you made for a larger bust, just out of curiosity?
OK so the best way to describe it is that each side only covers half of my chest. In your pattern you mentioned a lady making modifications for larger busts by adding rows to both the front panels and the back panel which I did. The back is perfect although the hood also turned out a little small. Do you think it could be my tension that did this? Because I used the same yarn as you, a 6.5mm hook, Tunisian knit stitch everything… All of my panels curled HEAPS and when I see pictures of other people’s progress the panels all look larger than mine turned out. Tis a puzzlement… I will take your advice and keep adding border it might even end up looking a tad more boho which is cool haha. Thanks again
Yes, it sounds like a slight difference in tension, which will affect your gauge. Large garments can be a bit tricky that way – even if you test the gauge beforehand, it can change as you are working over time. I think you can get away with adding extra border, but for the hood you may have to add extra rows by taking it off before you do the border. I had one crocheted with the same problem on the hood and he added around 12 extra rows I think.
These are gorgeous. I would love to do these. Is there anyway I can purchase the patterns. I tried downloading one before and it was 110 pages of advertisements as well
Hi Valeda,
You can purchase the pattern through my Etsy and Ravelry stores, which are linked at the top of my blog 🙂 they are PDF files with no advertisements – sounds like someone is using my work to pawn off bad links 🙁
Thank you – I cant wait to start this pattern! One question; can I substitute TKS with Tunisian simple stitch? I love the look of it and wondered if it would work ok with this project…
Oh yes! You can substitute in TSS without making any other changes to the pattern 🙂 be sure that your TSS gauge matches the given gauge and you should be good to go! I saw an example of someone else who did the coat in TSS and it looked great.
I LOVE this pattern. I just wanted you to let you know the simple wedge you say make 6 but you only give instructions to use 4.
Hi Jackie! The Medium pattern uses 6 simple wedges, but at the time of writing this post I didn’t have a picture of the completed Medium panel skirt so I substituted a picture of the Small (which uses four). I’ll have to get those pictures updated 🙂 🙂 Thanks for visiting and commenting! <3
I am using Red Heart Unforgettable yarn in Meadow. Using single crochet, I found a 4.5 m hook gave a proper gauge swatch. However, I am almost finished one of the skirt panels and there is no way, at 80 rows, it will end up 19.5 inches long. At 70 rows it is only 14 inches. Should I just continue making rows at 23 stitches each until I reach 19.5 inches long? Help!! 😊
I think I see my problem. The pointed wedges end up 19 inches long, but not the straight wedges. I think I will do a pointed wedge next to see how they compare.
Oh I see! I’m interested to see how it turns out
Hi Gail! You can definitely add more rows to reach your goal length, just follow the pattern of increasing established within the pattern 🙂 but I would advise aggressively blocking your pieces once you have completed the written portion of the pattern – you might be suprised how much more length you can coax out.
Your work and generosity is amazing!! Thank you for sharing. My daughter is starting middle school in the Fall and loved the idea of having something unique to wear this Fall. Is there a girl’s sized pattern available, like say a size 12 or is there a set way to decrease by size?
Hi Amy! Thank you so much 🙂 Though there is not yet a pattern written for youth sizes, I do plan to in the future – but unfortunately it won’t be before next fall! My advice would be to follow the size for Small, and before doing so read through the pattern and note the math that I give before each shaped section. I tried to provide enough information about how I got my stitch counts and measurements before going into the actual pattern so that it could be modified more easily. Additionally there are also lots of people in the Morale Fiber Facebook group who have modified this pattern and can offer advice if you need:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/361168981208777/
You can also contact me directly if you have specific questions about modifying it as you are going 🙂 🙂 I would love to help if I can!
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Do you have a photo of the Shaman coat?
https://moralefiber.blog/2016/10/03/shaman-coat-pattern/
🙂 🙂
Where can I post pictures of the 2 that I did? I would love for you to see them.
Hi Tina, I’d love the see them! You can send them to me directly at moralefiber(at)yahoo.com, or post them in our crochet grou pon Facebook, the Magic Fantastic Crochet Atelier:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/361168981208777
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Really love the coat! I was wondering if it was possible, even though more complicated, to make the skirt as a whole, instead of it being seperate parts? Or would that turn out weird?
There is definitely a way to do it, but I chose not to make the skirt that way because I wanted the colors of the variegated yarn to really stand out as long color changes – if you make the bottom portion in one piece, the variegated yarn comes out looking very patchy and stripey 🙂 but it really would depend on the yarn you’re using!
Thank you for the swift reply, I didn’t really think about that, But that’s definitely true. I’m doing the pattern as written right now to get a feel. But I usually like to adjust patterns to my own taste, and I was thinking about a few things for this one. Today I figured it would probably work quite well to do a backpanel in one full piece all the way down and the same for the side panels. I really like your patterns. They are all very beautifully made.
Thank you for the swift reply, I didn’t really think about that, But that’s definitely true. I’m doing the pattern as written right now to get a feel. But I usually like to adjust patterns to my own taste, and I was thinking about a few things for this one. Today I figured it would probably work quite well to do a backpanel in one full piece all the way down and the same for the side panels. I really like your patterns. They are all very beautifully made.
Thank you for the swift reply, I didn’t really think about that, But that’s definitely true. I’m doing the pattern as written right now to get a feel. But I usually like to adjust patterns to my own taste, and I was thinking about a few things for this one. Today I figured it would probably work quite well to do a backpanel in one full piece all the way down and the same for the side panels. I really like your patterns. They are all very beautifully made.
Absolutely! I love that idea – and I would love to see what you come out with <3 <3 Thanks so much for visiting and do let me know if you have any other questions 🙂
Hi. I made the elf coat medium and I cannot figure out how to attach the hood. Could you give ne a better explanation. It is not making sense on how to line the pointed ends up and the 32 rows left unseamed match. Thank you. Love the coat
Hi Sally! You’ll need to line up the center of the hood with the center row of the back panel, the center of the hood being the point at which your seam ends and there is a split in the hood. That should be where your hood is centered at the back. Then, the two ends of the split sections, at the edge of the hood, should line up with the last row of the slanted portion of the front panels 🙂 It helps to hold the hood on with stitch markers or other non-permanent fastenings, then use a whip stitch to seam the hood from those points all the way around the edge of the collar of the coat 🙂 🙂
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I am having trouble adding the back to the skit part. The pattern isn’t coming out looking like the points and wedges.
Hi Marilyn! Which part exactly are you having difficulty with – is there a certain row or part of the instructions specifically? If your pieces aren’t look right to you, I’d love to have a look if you want to e-mail me pictures of your project. Pictures are usually easier for me to diagnose problems – you can send them to moralefiber(at)yahoo.com if you like!
I was wondering if you received the email I sent with the pictures where I’m having trouble at?
Hi, sorry but I haven’t seen your e-mail – my business e-mail is moralefiber(at)yahoo.com, but that address is just set up to forward directly to my personal e-mail and I never check that inbox because it all goes to my main e-mail immediately. Just in case there is an issue with the forwarding service, I’ll check the inbox itself, and/or you can try again with either that address or my personal email, reginaalexisweiss(at)gmail.com 🙂
Ok, I got the e-mail now and have replied! Sorry about that, there was in fact some glitch with the forwarding service.
Hi Regina (beautiful name, by the way), I would like to only make the hood, but because I do not have any Tunisian crochet needles, so I kindly ask for your permission to try making it with the regular crochet. I just want to confirm: so it’s basically a large piece of triangles that you seam, right? Thank you in advance for permission.
Hi Pat and thank you! 😊 Yes, the hood is basically just a big rectangle folded in half! You should be able to recreate this in single crochet if you match the gauge and just follow the stitch counts -and yes that’s totally fine to attempt! Thanks so much for asking:)
Thank you!!! 🙂 🙂
Hi Regina, sorry to bother you again, but I forget to ask you one important question: you wrote in the Materials section that 16 skeins of worsted yarn are required, so I guess it’s for the entire outfit. Since I only want to make the hood (i choose the shortened hood), how many skeins of yarn do I need? I’m from Indonesia and worsted yarns are available here. Thank you!
Oh, good question! I think either hood takes at least two skeins of the recommended yarn, so for a shortened hood you’ll want to start with 700 ish yards but 800 would be safer 🙂
Understood Regina, thank you! 🙂
Im just getting started on the medium version. The pattern is absolutely brilliant and im just taking my time enjoying it. I have never really knitted, but tried the “tinesian” stitch and being left handed, i think it was coming out like a purl stitch. Wasnt good, so I ripped it out and am using the moss stitch and it is looking awesome. Just had to chain 5 extra to begin the row. Thanks for sharing this pattern!
That sounds amazing – iv never done moss stitch but I’m so glad you are enjoying the pattern and trying something new with it as well! Thanks so much for the kind feedback 🙂
Hi Regina. I love this pattern!!! Trying to make a sleeveless version but just noticed the tops of the sleeves make up part of the neckline. Do you think it would work if I made the first 10 or 15 rows of the sleeves and pieces them in?
Yes, absolutely! You can create a short “cap” style sleeve to bridge the gap between the front and back panels across the shoulder and just leave it there, it’ll want a border maybe but it should work 🙂
Thank you for such a speedy reply. I will send pics when I get it done. I had planned to do two rows of the border around the armholes. I want my daughter to be able to wear it pretty much year round; hence, no sleeves.
Sounds so cute, I can’t wait to see!
Hi, Regina! Will be starting to make the medium size for myself in the next few days and I can’t wait! Thank you for sharing this beautiful pattern. I need help though: I stand 5’3″ and my armpit to wrist measurement is only 16″, and the pattern says it will be 22″. Now that’s gonna be too long for me. How do I shorten the sleeves? Thank you.
Hi Cathi, great question! You can easily skip any of the rows on the sleeve before the sleeve starts to increase for the flare part in the last portion of the pattern (there’s a huge chunk of the sleeve that just works regular rows with no increases or decreases – that’s where you’ll want to skip rows to shorten.)
Since you are 5-3 and making a medium, I would also highly recommend skipping rows on waistband as well, or the flare of the coat will end up too far below your waistline and it won’t fit as nicely. As a guide I usually aim to have the top of the wedges for the bottom of the coat resting somewhere around the natural waist – that’s how I think it looks best, personally!
Even just browsing through your designs is soooo inspiring and fun, but this coat is something l am really tempted to make! (still wondering about the total amount of yarn required and if l could spin my own in such amount,- to acquire a respective amount of fiber ahead of time). Wow, your place is such a joy to plunge in: l feel like a kid in a candy shop (or rather in a colour pencils shop for me..) Thank you Regina, and May Lord keep you safe and at peace!
Well thank you so much, I don’t know what to say! Your comment totally made my day 🙂 🙂 Thank you so much and BLESS you!! I’m so happy it brings you joy!
I just want to say thank you so much for this pattern. Over the last year I’ve made it twice over, once for myself and once for my daughter. Today was a special moment, wearing my own to our local area’s second annual pride parade. I crochet it in the “gnome” by lions brand colour which ended up being a gorgeous faux patchwork coat of many colours look. It received insane rave reviews and many photo requests. It was such a hit and I certainly did not want to take all the credit, I happily let everyone know where I found the pattern for my wintery evening adventures learning Tunisian crochet.
First of all, thank you for this great pattern – it has kept me occupied for a long time 🙂 I have a question about the hood seam (I am doing the short version). I am not understanding how the number of rows works out. You write to whip stitch 55 rows, and that should leave 32 rows unseamed. But that only equals 87 rows. The whole patter has 151 rows, and even with leaving out the rows to make the short version, there are still 101 rows. What happens to the other 14 rows? Thanks!
Oops 0 there are 126 rows, not 101. So, what happens to the other 39 rows (not 14)?
Hmmm that’s a great question Donna! I’m not sure what happened there but the hood part of the pattern has undergone changes since the original publishing so it may well be an error left over from those changes. The end result should be that you leave the same amount of unseamed rows (total, both sides added together) on the hood as you have available collar stitches or row-ends. That way you can seam the open row ends of the hood to match up 1-1 with the stitches and row ends of the collar, making an even way to stitch them together. I’ll have to investigate this part of the pattern and get those numbers double checked/corrected 🙂 Thanks!
I had this exact same question and I was wondering if that’s the case would the answer be to simply continue the seam until you have the same 32 rows left? I love this pattern so much and thanks for the help and understanding!!
Yep, as long as you have 32 rows left of each side of the hood unseamed, totalling 64 rows, it should match up
Thank you so much for replying so quickly! Happy crafting and have a blessed day!!
Absolutely, thank you and you too!! 🙂