Update! : To view all available sizes of the FREE Elf Coat Pattern and all free add-ons please see the Elf Coat FAQ page for links! <3
Hi there! I’m really happy I am bringing you the Elf Coat Tunisian crochet pattern today, as this piece has been my secret baby for over a year and a half now (twenty months or so if you count the first draft).
This design started as a variation on my Shaman Coat pattern, a Tunisian crochet pattern that uses Tunisian Simple Stitch to create a rectangular-based overcoat with a big magical hood.
I wanted to try a coat with a flouncier A-line shape.
I got positive responses and requests for the pattern, but to be honest I personally was not satisfied on how it came out. So I sat and pondered and then tried again, using inspiration from a favorite sweater of mine and other projects I saw out there in the yarniverse including the coats of the inimitable Katwise.
The new design I came up with was solid, but needed a lot of tweaking and figuring, plus many hours of stitching of course. All this was done gradually as my life changed very quickly around me. When I recently (finally) completed it, I felt triumphant… but this was just for one size. I still needed two more sizes to complete the pattern I had planned!
Well, I got impatient. I have been working on this thing for a long time, and I wanted to hurry up and share it. So I decided to share the pattern for the first size here for FREE, along with basic schematic descriptions and tips for customizing. I plan on adding more pattern elements and the written pattern for larger sizes in the future – but for now, please enjoy the Small size and if you make something with it I would LOVE TO SEE IT! <3 <3 <3
UPDATE: There is now a pattern for size Medium available on my blog, also for free! Hope you love it 😀
UPDATE: This pattern is now linked in the Ravelry Pattern database, so you can throw a gal a favorite and/or link up your projects to the Ravelry pattern page here.
UPDATE: There is now a pattern for size Large and a pattern for Corset Back Lacing!
FINAL UPDATE (FOR NOW): There is in fact a purchaseable PDF pattern that includes all THREE sizes and the tutorial for the corset back lacing available in my Ravelry Store and Etsy shop!
Elf Coat Tunisian Crochet Pattern – Size Small
This elegant fantasy-inspired sweater coat features an A-line silhouette with a curling, pointed geometric hem shape inspired by flower blossoms, delicate pointed bell sleeves, and of course a long and ample pointed elf hood. The variegated yarn creates dazzling prisms of color across the separately worked pieces of the coat.
Tunisian crochet using the Tunisian Knit Stitch gives the fabric of this coat an imitation-knit texture that is sleek and beautiful as well as warm. The modular construction makes this pattern easy to customize and style, and includes tips for sizing and modification from the written pattern.
My own vision for future versions of this pattern includes too many ideas to maybe ever actually do! I plan to add corset lacing on this for sure (this version doesn’t have it because it is already so fitted). Also faux fur hemming, like the first draft… a patchy version using yarn scraps… added pockets… an ultra-flared version using all pointed wedges, a short sleeve collared version… Just a cropped jacket version with no skirt… an ornate version with embroidery or freeform crochet… felted additions…
You guys might have to help me out with those. 😀 Speaking of which, if you like and/or make this pattern and you have feedback for me, please leave it in the comments! Questions and suggestions are always welcome.
Elf Coat Instructions
Materials
6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook
King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic – color shown is Autumn) – 10 skeins
Gauge for Riot DK: 9 sts & 10 rows = 2” (top of ea block = 3.5”)
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 14 skeins
Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”Size:
Finished Measurements:
All measurements given in this pattern are APPROXIMATED and given for the original gauge using Riot DK. Substituting a different yarn or gauge may result in different measurements.
Waist: ~34″
Bust: ~34″
Hip: ~38″
Sleeve: 22″ (measured armpit to hem)
Length: ~35″This pattern, based on a 9-wedge skirt, using 5 pointed wedges and 4 simple wedges , is equivalent to a Small size. Larger sizes can be based on an 11-wedge skirt (5 pointed wedges, 6 simple wedges) and a 13-wedge skirt (7 pointed, 6 simple). Further tips on custom sizing can be found in the pattern. There is now a written pattern for size Medium, Large can be found here. Many people have asked how to size up – there are not yet plus sizes written, but an XL will be based on a 15 wedge skirt (7 pointed 8 simple), and 2XL will be based on a 17 wedge skirt (8 pointed 9 simple). The math of the pattern is explained in the notes to each section and can be modified following the number of wedges in the skirt’s size requirements.
Notes on yarn, gauge, and sizing:
Yarn: I chose King Cole Riot DK yarn for this pattern because of it’s long color changes and pretty one-ply structure that makes the colors and the stitches well defined. The DK weight and 30% wool content creates a sleek and lightweight fabric that is also very warm. However, the big box hobby stores in the U.S do not carry this yarn – I get it from a UK website called LoveKnitting.com (which I highly recommend!).
So, I wanted to find a substitute yarn that is more commercially available and the closest I could find was Red Heart Unforgettable, which also looks gorgeous for this design. RH Unforgettable is 100% acrylic, which has the benefit of zero felting, and being allergy/vegan friendly. It is also a #4 weight yarn which means it will gauge differently.
The two wedges worked in Red Heart Unforgettable
Gauge: Since the two yarns gauge differently, I have listed the gauges for each yarn individually under the materials section. These are using the 6.50 mm hook listed. If you use Unforgettable following it’s gauge, you can get a slightly bigger coat using the same stitch counts listed in the pattern. If you use Riot DK and follow that gauge, you will have the size coat pictured here and the measurements shown in the diagrams.
9 stitches = 2″ in Riot DK
10 rows = 2″ in Riot DK
8 sts = 2″ in RH Unforgettable. It’s really more like 8.5 stitches, but we’re calling it 8 because of stretch!
9 rows = 2″
It’s also an option to change the hook size for Unforgettable to obtain the gauge given for Riot DK, if you want to use the alternate yarn but still get the size pictured.
NOTE FOR LEFTIES: If you are left-handed, your pattern pieces will be mirrored – for instance, your left panel for the torso of the jacket will be worked from the Right Panel pattern, and vice versa.
Techniques Used:
Chain (ch)
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) – stitch used for each coat piece. Tutorial can be found on my blog here: https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Increase (TKS inc): Increasing in Tunisian Knit Stitch. Tutorial here: – https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Decrease (TKS dec): Decreasing in Tunisian Knit stitch – tutorial here: https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
Linked Double Crochet (LDC): Creating a row of double crochet that are linked in the middle. Tutorial here: https://moralefiber.blog/2018/02/02/linked-double-crochet-tutorial/
Slip Stitch (Sl st): Used selectively for seaming
Whip Stitch: Sewing stitch made with a tapestry needle with yarn as thread, used for seaming.Video Tutorials: I have created a playlist of video tutorials for working all the Tunisian stitches and other special techniques needed for this design, please refer to those on my YouTube channel at the link below! 😊
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i8JEaMwoXg&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJGbejoOmTechnique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful crochet technique and I love it and highly recommend learning if you haven’t. But since this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just rows of regular stitches with some increases and decreases – that’s really it) a different technique can easily be substituted in. As long as your stitches match the gauge given, you could work this pattern in regular single crochet or regular knit stitch.
One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet or one regular knit/purl stitch.
I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single crochet, and obtained a closely matching gauge using a 4.0 mm hook.
Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does wonders for your finished piece, especially with Tunisian crochet which tends to curl. Blocking for this piece can be done simply by laying your piece out on a foam mat, using blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat and pretty and in the right shape. Using a spray bottle and plain water, wet the piece, then let dry. This works great with wool based yarns (King Cole Riot DK) and moderately well with acrylics (RH Unforgettable).
Above: Large Size Elf Coat laid out flat for blocking
Okay, phew. That was a lot of info.
I tried to provide the answers to what I thought might be common questions for this pattern, based on what people have asked about similar patterns 🙂 If any of it seems confusing, please don’t hesitate to ask me here on the blog, or via my Facebook page
Now on to the pattern:
Instructions
The pieces of this coat can be made in any order.
Simple Wedge (Make 4)
Both the simple wedges and the pointed wedges can be shortened by subtracting 8 rows right after the initial Row 1.
Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.
Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts.
Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts.
Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.Pointed Wedge (Make 5):
Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 20-27: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next 8 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 29-32: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next 9 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 34-37: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next 10 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 39-42: TKS across, RP. – 25 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next 11 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 44-47: TKS across, RP. – 27 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. RP. – 33 sts
Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next 16 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 59: TKS across, RP. – 37 sts
Row 60: TKS in the next 17 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 61: TKS across, RP. – 39 sts
Row 62: TKS in the next 18 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts
Row 64: TKS in the next 19 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts
Row 66: TKS in the next 20 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 71: TKS in the next 25 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 72: TKS in the next 26 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 73: TKS in the next 27 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 74: TKS in the next 28 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 75: TKS in the next 29 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 76: TKS in the next 30 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 78: TKS in the next 32 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 stsCut yarn and tie off.
Skirt Construction
Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges as shown, seam all blocks together with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn.
Since the rest of the pattern is based off of the measurements of the skirt waist, you could extend the skirt and figure the pattern out from there if you are adventurous. I have included notes in the rest of the pattern on modifying the pieces.
Waist length for the size Small.
Skirt Border:
The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked Double Crochet, worked back and forth, with increases at the point of each pointed wedge.
With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of the skirt hem.
Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at the point of each pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this increase.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each point where the increase was marked.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each ch-1 from the increase points of the previous row.Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie off. You can work extra border here if you want the skirt longer!
Close-up of the increases at the point of each pointed wedge
WAIST:
The waist is worked directly onto the top of the wedges that make up the skirt. One stitch is skipped on every block, to create a slight decrease in width to accentuate the waist. This means that your size will have (14 sts x the number of total wedges) as the ending stitch count for Row 1.
Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the tops of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 8 times – or however many you need to complete the row across every wedge block. RP. – 126 sts
To modify the size here, add or subtract any rows after the first one to make it longer or shorter. To create inset pockets, see “Pockets” Instructions, before completing the waistband. Outside pockets may be completed after the waistband is finished.
Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP.
Back Panel:
The back panel is worked the length of stitches that equals half of the number of stitches in the waist. In this size, the waist is 126 stitches. Divided by two, that’s 63 stitches.
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 63.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 61 sts. Return pass (RP). – 63 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 63 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 51 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 40: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33 sts
Row 42: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 31 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. RP – 29 sts
Row 44: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. RP – 27 sts
Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. RP – 25 stsIf working a different size, keep working in the pattern with decreases at both ends (or as necessary) until the remaining number of stitches is 25.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Front Panel – Right:The front panels are worked with the length of stitches equaling the half of the waistband that the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two, so each panel will be a quarter of the total waistband stitches. 126 / 4 = 31.5. Since that’s not a whole number, I will round down to 31 and fudge the seam a tiny fraction.
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 31.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 30 sts. Return pass (RP). – 31 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 30 sts.
Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 29 sts.
Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 28 sts.
Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 27 sts.
Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 26 sts.
Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25 sts.
Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 sts.
Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23 sts.
Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22 sts.
Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21 sts.
Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20 sts.
Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19 sts.
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 stsIf working a different size, keep working in the pattern with decreases at both ends (or as necessary) until the remaining number of stitches is 5.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Front Panel – Left:
With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 31.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 30 sts. Return pass (RP). – 31 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. RP – 30 sts.
Row 28: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. RP – 29 sts.
Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. RP – 28 sts.
Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. RP – 27 sts.
Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. RP – 26 sts.
Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. RP – 25 sts.
Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. RP – 24 sts.
Row 34: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. RP – 23 sts.
Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. RP – 22 sts.
Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. RP – 21 sts.
Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. RP – 20 sts.
Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. RP – 19 sts.
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 stsIf working a different size, keep working in the pattern with decreases at both ends (or as necessary) until the remaining number of stitches is 5.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Seam the Back & Front Panels
Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch the sides of the panels together so that the long angles face each other. Stitch together the straight sides, not the angles. Once the bodice is sewn together, line the flat bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach using a 3.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn by working a slip stitch through both pieces.
SLEEVE (Make 2):
The sleeves for all sizes begin with a 16-chain length, then work a portion of increases creating a slant that lines up with the slanted edge of the bodice. The sleeve then works decreases to size down for the main part of the arm (worked evenly), then increases again for the flared sleeve.
The former design placed the decrease portion at the ends of the rows, but the new 2.0 version is written so that the decreases are placed centrally, in the middle of the row. This allows the fabric to slant downward to follow the natural line of the shoulder. If you prefer working the old style, simply place the decreases at the ends of the rows instead 😊
Pictured Above: Old style sleeve. Pictured below: New style sleeve
Ch 16.
Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts
Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts
Row 3: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 20 sts
Row 4: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 22 sts
Row 5: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 24 sts
Row 6: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 26 sts
Row 7: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 28 sts
Row 8: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 30 sts
Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 34 sts
Row 11: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 36 sts
Row 12: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 38 sts
Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts
Row 14: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts
Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 38 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts
Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 46 sts
Row 17: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 42 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts
Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 44 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 50 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 52 sts
Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts
Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 56 sts
Row 22: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 52 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 23: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 54 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 60 sts
Row 24: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 25: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 56 sts
Row 26: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 54 sts
Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 52 sts
Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 50 sts
Row 29 TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 48 sts
Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 46 sts
Rows 31 – 72: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 46 sts
Row 73: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 40 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 48 sts
Row 74: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 48 sts
Row 75: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 42 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 50 sts
Row 76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 50 sts
Row 77: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 44sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 52 sts
Row 78: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 52 sts
Row 79: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 46 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 54 sts
Row 80: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 54 sts
Row 81: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 48 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 56 sts
Row 82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 56 sts
Row 83: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 50 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 58 sts
Row 84: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts
Row 85: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 52 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 60 sts
Row 86: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 60 sts
Row 87: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 54 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 62 sts
Row 88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 62 sts
Row 89: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 56 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 64 sts
Row 90: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 64 sts
Row 91: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 58 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 66 sts
Row 92: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 66 sts
Row 93: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Row 94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 95: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 70 sts
Row 96: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 70 sts
Row 97: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 72 sts
Row 98: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 72 sts
Row 99: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 66sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 74 sts
Row 100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 74 sts
Row 101: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 68 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 76 sts
Row 102: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76 sts
Row 103: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Row 104: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 105: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 72 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 80 sts
Row 106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts
Row 107: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 74 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82 sts
Row 108: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82 sts
Row 109: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 84 sts
Row 110: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Seaming the Sleeve:
Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the piece. Seam together using a whip stitch, starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving toward the shoulder, leaving 23 rows unseamed at the top. At the underarm of the sleeve, match the remaining opening to the front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows to cap the tops of the panels, overlapping the top by 4 stitches.
Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the front and back panels.
Close-up of the sleeve fitting.
Sleeve Border
With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam where the sleeve is sewn together.
Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 times in the same stitch, inserting hook as if to TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join with a slip stitch in the top of the first dc.
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first stitch and 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves longer here by adding extra border rounds of LDC.
Close-up of sleeve border. Beware my join is not in the same place pictured as is written in the pattern – whoops!
HOOD:
The hood is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete. This hood has a very long point – it’s a lot of hood! If you prefer a slightly shorter hood, seed “Half Hood” instructions below. Either size hood can be made and attached to any size Elf Coat.
Working a Shortened Hood (Formerly the Half Hood): This is the alternative to the full size hood design which conserves a little yarn. Like the full hood, it is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete and seamed. You can use either hood interchangeably when creating your coat, though, no matter which size you are making! To work the Shortened Hood, skip one of the two non-increase rows between each increase row for the first 76 rows written (50 rows total). Then, resume the Hood pattern as normal at Row 77.
Shortened Hood
Full HoodCh 3.
Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of the next 2 chain stitches. RP. – 3 sts
Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts
Rows 3-4: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts
Row 5: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next
3 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 stsRows 6-7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts
Row 8: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.
Rows 9-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts
Row 11: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 12-13: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts
Row 14: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Rows 15-16: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts
Row 17: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 18-19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts
Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 21-22: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts
Row 23: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 24-25: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 19 sts
Row 26: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 27-28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts
Row 29: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 30-31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts
Row 32: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 33-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts
Row 35: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 36-37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts
Row 38: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 39-40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts
Row 41: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 42-43: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 31 sts
Row 44: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 33 sts
Row 45-46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts
Row 47: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 35 sts.
Rows 48-49: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 35 sts
Row 50: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 37 sts.
Rows 51-52: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts
Row 53: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 39 sts
Rows 54-55: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 39 sts
Row 56: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 41 sts
Rows 57-58: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 41 sts
Row 59: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 43 sts
Rows 60-61: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 43 sts
Row 62: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 45 sts
Rows 63-64: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts
Row 65: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 47 sts
Rows 66-67: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 49 sts
Rows 69-70: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 49 sts
Row 71: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 51 sts
Rows 72-73: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts
Row 74: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 53 sts
Rows 75-76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.
Row 77: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in ea of the next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 58 sts
Rows 78-79: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts
Row 80: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 63 sts
Rows 81-82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 63 sts
Row 83: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp) 4 times. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts
Rows 84-85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts
Row 86: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 16 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts
Rows 87-88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 73 sts
Row 89: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts
Rows 90-91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts
Row 92: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 83 sts
Rows 93-94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts
Row 95: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 88 sts
Rows 96-97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts
Row 98: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 93 sts
Rows 99-100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 93 sts
Row 101: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 98 sts
Rows 102-103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts
Row 104: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 103 sts
Rows 105-106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 103 sts
Row 107: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 108 sts
Rows 108-109: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 108 sts
Row 110: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 113 sts
Rows 111 – 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 113 sts
Row 113: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 118 sts
Rows 114 – 115: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 118 sts
Row 116: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 123
Rows 117 – 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 123 sts
Row 119: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 128 sts
Rows 120-121: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 128 sts
Row 122: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 133 sts
Rows 123-124: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 133 sts
Row 125: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 138 sts
Rows 126-127: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 138 sts
Row 128: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 143 sts
Rows 129-130: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 143 sts
Row 131: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 148 sts
Rows 132-133: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 148 sts
Row 134: TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 153 sts
Rows 135 – 151: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 153 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.
Seaming the Hood
Fold the large triangle down the center length so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other and the wrong sides are out. With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, make a whip stitch seam starting at the point of the hood and seaming over the next 89 rows toward the opening of the hood.
Once this seam is complete, there should be 32 rows left un-seamed on either side.Turn your hood inside out so that the right sides are facing out again.
How did I get the number of rows to leave unseamed? It’s (8+8) to account for the small angled part on each side of the front panel, plus (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then (25-8= 17) to cover the portion of the top of the back panel not already covered by the cap of the sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded down to 64 to get an even number when I halved it – so 32 rows left unseamed on either side of the hood.
The hood then is seamed to the collar of the garment (once all sleeves and everything have been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching the points of the hood opening indicated by the red dots to the beginning of the collar on the front, also indicated by red dots.
Seam the hood around the collar opening, matching stitch for stitch.
Front Border and Closures
We’re almost done! Next up is to use four rows of LDC to add a border across the entire front opening, beginning with the hem, working up the opening of the garment, going around the edge of the hood, and working back down the other side of the front opening. After the third row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the buttons.
Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of the skirt border rows.
Ch 3.
Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1 LDC in the side of each row across the next wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side of each row across the front panel, waist band, and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each LDC of the skirt border.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2.Close-up of LDC border
Now stop and mark where your buttons will be on one side, and mark an equidistant space on the other side of the border for where you will place your loops or buttonholes. I began with one button/closure on the top and bottom edge of the waist band, then used this measurement (17 sts between each placement) to space the other buttons. I made five button placements total.
Once your button placements have been marked, begin the fourth row of LDC.
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you reach a button/closure marker. If you are on the button side, keep working LDC’s. If you are on the closure side, there are two options: You can chain a couple stitches and skip over working a couple stitches, which creates a buttonhole within the band and a tighter closure. I opted to use a loop closure, which leaves the front a little more open when buttoned.
If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big enough to fit the button through, then slip stitch in the same stitch. Continue working LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain loop at any point where a closure is marked.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Stopping to chain a loop closure
After finishing the final border row, use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach each button at the marked location on the opposite side of the closures. If you’re looking to add a Corset Back Lacing, check out this blog post for that add-on pattern! If you want to add a Belted Tie to the waist of your coat for extra cinching, check out this blog post for that free add-on!
After you have completed this, you are finished with the Elf Coat! At least, until I add more bells and whistles (figuratively… I think). Weave in your ends and block your work (blocking is highly recommended for this garment).
As I mentioned, I’ll be adding more sizes and features to this pattern as I go. I hope you are inspired to create a work of wearable art all your own <3 The best part of designing patterns and sharing them online is that I get to help create artwork with people all around the world. Thank you, thank you, thank you for visiting and creating art with me!
-MF
Your designs are amazing and this coat is absolutely gorgeous! You’re like an actual elf or faerie. This might be my favorite yet of your designs! Not that I needed to start any new projects, haha. I’m getting serious Tolkien vibes. And I’m so excited you posted the pattern for free! *squeal* Thank you! ❤ 😀
Thank YOU for your amazing and kind words! I am just so grateful that people out there enjoy what I have to offer 🙂
So beautiful Thank you.
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Brilliant!
You are an amazingly generous being. ❤️❤️❤️❤️
I am so grateful you like it 🙂 🙂 🙂
I am loving this and starting to crochet this I am a little confused as to how to make the point on the wedge with this pattern can you help me see what I have missed please x
Hi Polly, the Pointed Wedge instructions create a point by placing increases where indicated in the written pattern – can you tell me more specifically which part you are having difficulty with? Where are you in the instructions?
Thank you for your speedy reply I was in row 30 of the pointed wedge and couldn’t see how it would work but as I carried on I could see the point forming as if by magic 😁
Thank you so much for this pattern it is Awesome x
Oh wonderful! So glad it is working out 🙂 It especially helps if, once finished, you take the point in the middle of the wedge and stretch it upwards to exaggerate the shape (blocking is a great way to keep this piece shaped nicely too!) 🙂
Omigosh, my jaw dropped when I opened this blog post. This coat is stunning! And how generous of you to provide the pattern for free. I need to brush up on my Tunisian decreases, but with your instructions, I think I can do it. Thank you!
Wow, thank you so much! <3 This design was really a labor of love for me, and I"m so grateful others like it as well 🙂 🙂
Will a regular tunsian hook work or for the waist will i need one with a cable ? Ty ! This is a dream ! Hope its not beyond my meager skills
For the Small size I managed to work it on one regular hook, but I think for the Medium and Large sizes you’ll probably want to have a cabled hook. Excellent question! I’ll have to mention that in the main post 😀 😀
Thank you ! Ive ordered my yarn and a k hook had 6mm and 7 but no 6.5 lol. I have a katwise sweater so im so excited to try this ! Ive made several of your creations love them ! Hugs !
Yay, that is so awesome! I’d love to see what you make, and of course if you have any questions you know where to find me 🙂 🙂
Amazing!!!! Thank you for sharing!
I am bowled over! This is gorgeous. I like both the rainbow and the neutral color with the faux fur. I have a niece in mind for the rainbow. I’d like to make the neutral colorway for myself, I’m an ‘xl’ gal so I’ll be following your notes for making larger sizes and measuring, measuring, measuring. This is outstanding designing! I never tried Tunisian crocheting. I flipped through your blog to find the wash cloth tutorial to test my patience with the basic stitch. I made 6 last night. I think I’ve found my new obsession! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you! I am so happy you have discovered Tunisian crochet, it really is one of my absolute favorite techniques. I hope you share what you’ve made when you are finished and please don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions <3
I’ve made several Katwise coats from thrifted sweaters and my serger but THIS is jaw dropping fantastic! Kat will die(jump up and down and wanna crochet!!) when she sees THIS!! You are one super talented gal to figure out how to convert this to Tunisian Crochet!! Thank you so much for giving us your gift. I am printing all of it off right now. I’m a 36DD so I will need to make adjustments but that is an easy fix. Your awesome!! Amie :))
Aww thank you so much! I am just super grateful to be a part of the wonderful online community of fiber artists, everyone here is so sweet and supportive and amazing 🙂 🙂 Please let me know if you have any questions! I”ve already started working on the larger sizes, too 😉
So beautiful! Thank you!
Love, love, LOVE this! I am so looking forward to the larger sizes. I HAVE to have one of these! Amazing job! You rock!
Thank you so much! I am so excited to do the larger sizes too 🙂 I am already plotting…
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This is simply beautiful, and I can’t believe it’s a free pattern. I already have an idea for this and I can’t wait to get started on it. It will have to wait though as I have MANY other projects going on The colors are simply stunning and I love that you gave two different types of yarn you can use. Overall just a beautiful pieces and I am forever grateful for it!.
Thank you so much <3 <3 It really was a labor of love and I'm so grateful that other love it too <3
This is stunning, and the directions are great. I wonder if I could make it larger by crocheting as written but using a slightly bigger hook to get a different gauge-what do you think? Also-just a thought, and I know it’s a lot of work, but maybe a kid’s size pattern could be worked up in the future? Thank you so much for making this available for free. It is like a sweet gift of love to the entire crochet community.
I think you could definitely make this coat with a larger hook to get a larger size! I’m not sure what the math would be like to figure that, but you could probably start by gauging a larger hook and making a simple wedge panel to give you an idea of how much bigger of a hook to use and what that would look like 🙂 I would absolutely love to do a children’s version of this garment too, I’m glad I’ve got another vote for that- I”ll keep it on my list!
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This is absolutely magnificent!
Thank you so much for being so generous in sharing your adventure from start to finish.
Lynn
Thanks for your awesome compliment Lynn! 🙂 🙂 My pleasure!
Your work is absolutely stunning!!!
Thank you so much! <3 <3
OMG GIRL!!!! Thank you so much for this! I had purchased that Katwise coat pattern a long time ago because I absolutely fell in love with these elf coats but I never got around to doing it. I’m 56 and in love with everything magickal, fairy and elf! I will have to make this in a large so I will let you know how this goes. I also have never done the Tunisian stitch before but have the hooks so I might give it a try. I love the brown one with the fur and corset, that is so up my alley, I will make that version but in the bright colors of the new coat. I am in love with yellow, orange, green, blues and purple stripping yarn and I already have the Lion Brand Mandala yarn in Gnome too, how fitting is that name for the colors?! I was going to make another “fairy” coat with it but am currently working on a poncho so I hadn’t gotten around to it yet and here you are with this pattern in my inbox this morning and now I know exactly what I want to make next. I am so excited, can’t wait to get started. Thanks again Chicklet!
Aww you are so welcome fairy sister! I hope you send me a picture when you are done and /or let me know how it turns out because I would love to see! 🙂 🙂 I’m so glad you like it!
This is beautiful! At first glance I was sure this was going to be a knitted pattern. But alas! I am too big to fit into a small size so I will just have to admire it from afar.
Fear not, larger sizes are coming! 😀 😀 😀
I also wanted to note that I love LoveKnitting or LoveCrochet, same company, as well but I am in Canada and the prices for yarn on their site jumped a while back as well as their shipping fees. I am using Lion Brand Mandala in Gnome which is a DK 3 and the colors are almost identical it’s soft and lovely to work with and has 590 yards or 540 meters per cake and currently $7.97 CAD each! Which is awesome! The Red Heart Unforgettable is wonderfully soft and the colors are gorgeous but you pay for it. You can get it at Walmart but it costs $11.53 per skein and is 270 yards each.
Yep, the pricier yarns are pretty but you really have to be invested in the project to pay the total yarn cost for this coat if you use those – Lion Brand Mandala seems to be the more affordable alternative, I’ve heard from several people trying it with that yarn so far and it looks great! Thanks for the tip 🙂 🙂
I got 11 skeins of king cole riot from lovesknitting for 61.16 free shipping. 5.56 a skein was on sale ! Today its 7 something. Plus they ship out of st louis which is close enough i got it in 4 business days !
Wow, that’s awesome! I saw that sale going on but I wasn’t sure how long it was going for – glad you caught it! 😀
Just seeing this sweater-coat made my day…you are so talented and generous!
Thank you so much! This design was really a labor of love so I am so glad to see other people enjoying it as much as I did making it 😀
I absolutely LOVE this coat – as would my elfling daughter! I don’t think my skills are up to adjusting for a a larger size, however. I’m going to add myself to the list to get future postings so that I will find out when written patterns for larger sizes are available.
Yes!! I am definitely working on those larger sizes as we speak! It’s a big project though and I work full time at a day job, so it may take some time, but I am determined to make it happen 😉
Thanks – it’s not like I don’t have anything else in my queue to work on!
Very nice Elf coat! I do like it! You did a very good job on this coat!
Thank you so much Sandra! 🙂
I want to know if you can use 100% cotton yarn. also can I just use a single crochet instead of the other stitch. can I use #3 yarn for this
my sister in law loves this and wants one, I am going to be making one as a practice one to check the size of this pattern and see if I need to make it bigger for her
Hi Jennifer! In the text somewhere (there’s a lot of paragraphs I know) I mention that you can substitute single crochet. I think it’s under “Techniques” so you can look there for more info on that 🙂 And you should be able to make it with Cotton DK, as long as your gauge matches!
Thanks for your kindness and generosity….just an amazing pattern.I like so much people who are still in love with legends
Thank you, I have always been enchanted with mythology, folklore, and fantasy, I just absolutely love incorporating it into the aesthetic of my designs! So glad you like it 🙂
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I have started this pattern and am hoping your waist and bust measurements are reversed. Lol.
Hi Diane! The finished measurements are given both in the instructions and on the schematics, but there are definitely ways to size it up or down to customize and I am working on the larger sizes in a written pattern form right now! 🙂 🙂
But the pattern states
the waist is larger than the bust. 🙂
Ah yes, I see what you are saying! Lol! Typo – it has been fixed. Thanks so much for catching that!
This is absolutely stunning. Makes me so jealous of you Ladies who can rock something like that! As a man, this wouldn’t work lol. But I’m in awe of how amazing this is and In jealousy that it wouldn’t look good on me. Such detailed instructions too! Absolutely gorgeous!
Thank you so much!! I also have the Shaman Coat pattern available which is similar but more gender neutral – although you could definitely do this piece with all simple wedges for the bottom part and make it less frilly and more masculine! <3
When you have the pattern for bigger sizes PLEASE let me know. I would LOVE to have it!!!!!!
Hi Denise! Glad you like the design! For updates on my latest releases, you can follow me here on my blog to get e-mail updates or you can follow my Facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber
Thanks so much! 🙂 🙂
OMG Love this pattern and can’t wait to make it for my granddaughters. They are going to freak out!! Is there a printable version??
Aww yay! There’s no printable version yet, but that’s definitely high on my to-do list!
Quick question please. Under the materials needed you have listed King Cole yarn-10 skeins and Red Heart Boutique – 13 skeins. Are both needed or is it one or the other? I’m new and I’m not used to quantity amounts for projects bigger than scarfs or hats. Thank you 😊
Hi Debbie! You use one or the other of the listed yarns – so you either need 10 of the King Cole or 13 of the Red Heart 😉 Thanks so much and let me know if you have any other questions!
Beautiful!
Just found this coat and IM IN LOVE!!! I was writing it out so I can knit it instead of crochet and I was looking at the measurements and you have the bust at 24” is that correct? That seems awfully small for a waist at 34”
Ah, it is supposed to say 34″! Thanks for catching that 🙂 🙂 I love that you are knitting it, be sure to let me know how it turns out! 😀
This pattern is totally amazing 🙂 I actually started it for my wife for her LARP character. I was wondering if it would be possible to make this pattern printable though… I find patterns easier to follow in paper form. I tried printing this, but it wouldn’t print. Thank you so much!
Hi Amanda! I am so glad you like the design – I’m currently working on making the printable version of this, which will be released as a PDF as soon as possible! But right now the only version is available on the blog.
Thank you! I look forward to the PDF version 🙂
I have been crocheting for around 50 years with a preference for vintage patterns until I stumbled upon your “Elf Coat”. Never in all those years have I been witness to such an absolutely enchanting work of art as this!! I visited Katwise and was impressed but it pales in comparison to your accomplishment! It takes alot of talent to create such as this with a simple hook and thread. I am so humbled and proud that one so young posses this much talent. My 8 year old granddaughter is in the process of learning to crochet and I plan to show her your talents this weekend when she comes. I plan on following your blog to see your future endeavors and in the meantime I will attempt to make a coat for my little “Zelda” playing granddaughter! Thanks again for sharing and I hope you make a career out of creating..
Wow, thank you for the incredible compliment Gayla! <3 <3 <3 You know, I learned to crochet right around your granddaughter's age! I have loved this craft and it has healed me many times over through my life so far, so I hope she loves crocheting as much as you and I do 🙂 🙂 Oh, and I love playing Zelda too 😉 lol!
This is such an awesome coat! I will probably make several. I’ve been crocheting for about 50 years so I can probably get by making larger sizes without the larger size pattern. I have 3 granddaughters and will make them one also – just a matter of how many stitches you use in your panels and the number of panels made. I don’t like how yours closes in front so will probably increase that and make buttonholes. I have a ton of the Lion Brand Mandala yarns so they will work well with this. I will try to keep track of the changes I make and take pics and pass them along. Thank you for your gorgeous design!
Hi Kelly, I can’t wait to see what you create with the pattern – sounds like it will be totally awesome! I’m glad you like the design so much and of course any tips on increasing size would be really helpful <3 <3 thanks so much for visiting!
PS: I have made a couple of your designs already and love your work!
Hello elf lady
Did you finish each piece with slip stitch type cast off or just cut yarn after last row .
Ty !
Great question! I just cut the yarn after the last row was completed for the piece 🙂
Thank you !
Hi, this looks amazing. So I’m gonna make it. But I’m a bit confused.
Materials
6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook
King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic – color shown is Autumn) – 10 skeins
Gauge for Riot DK: 9 sts & 10 rows = 2” (top of ea block = 3.5”)
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 13 skeins
Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”
Are thers two difrent options or do I need a both normal hook and Tunisien hook? And all together 23skeins of woll
And if not why is the Tunisien hook thiker then the normal hook?
So confused on what material I need 😫
But so exited it’s soo beutefull. And never used a Tunisian hook before. So exited
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This coat is a masterpiece! I don’t know how to Tunisian Crochet and now I am inspired to learn so I can make this. Thank you so much for sharing this pattern. If/when I make something I will definitely let you know. Peace 🙂
Aww thank you! I am so glad you are inspired 🙂 🙂 Highly recommend trying Tunisian crochet out… it really is so much fun! <3
Absolutely stunning!! Wow that’s a lot of work but honestly I think I’ll wait till after my Bariatric Surgery to make anything this complicated. Especially with the amount of yarn needed. I think it might look nice made with the Lion Brand Mandala Cakes. What do you think?
I think it would look lovely in Mandala! Several people I have corresponded with have started it with that same yarn in fact! 😀 Good luck with your surgery and may you have quick recovery and lots of yarn to keep you company while you recover 😉
Wow!
I absolutely love this! I’ve just been teaching myself Tunisian crochet and love the cloth it creates. I HAVE to make this! It’s amazing!
Thank you so much! I love Tunisian crochet too, the texture and weight of the fabric is just to die for – so glad you like the design 😀 😀
Wowwwww … what can I dat, this pattern is by far the most beautiful that I’ve ever seen on internet of in real live. Can’t wait to start this project, thank you so much!
Ine, from the Netherlands 😉
Wow, thank you so much for the incredible compliment! you are too sweet! Glad you enjoy the design and let me know if you have any questions 🙂
Love this!!!
Do you have any idea how much more yarn I would need, when I make it more of an L?
I’ve started with my first simple wedge, my gauge is bigger, but since my coat should be bigger than an S I do not think that will be a huge problem. Right now I only have two skein of yarn, so I definitely need to get more. But my guess is I will need more than the amount for an S. Can totally undertake If you have no clue either, bit just thought I’d check with you.
Just found out my yarn is a limited edition, so bit even sure I can still get more of it, but when I do I would really want to make sure that I get enough 😉
That’s a great question – if I had to guess I would say around 900 more yards, but I could be way off! Sounds really interesting and I’d love to hear how it went – what yarn are you using? 🙂
Thanks for the reply, I think I am good with the amount I ordered, ordered two more than I meant to order, but with your guess, it just means I have some extra in case I need it!
Will let you know how it goes though it could take quite some time… I have never finished a sweater or something big before… But so far I am loving how fast my first simple wedge is working up!
I am using Papatya Batik in the colorway ocean, I think it is a real pretty color! (https://www.sieradenenzo.nl/product/2028975/papatya-batik-ocean-limited-edition)
Assuming you are doing an L out of a 13-panel skirt base, that is! 😀 Forgot to mention. If you do a medium with a larger gauge to alter the size, you could use less yarn.
Ah good to know. Will see how big my first simple wedge is, and how many panels I need to make it a good size for me. So far it seems like my yarn and work seem almost the same gauge as your second yarn choice.
That sounds amazing and your yarn looks beautiful! Good luck and let me know if you have any questions along the way <3
Do we bind off the last rows of every part? For the simple wedge (and other parts as far as I have seen) the last row is a TKS on the forward pass and then a return pass. After that it says cut the yarn and tie off, but to me the last row is still very holey, so it would make sense to me to bind of the row (insert hook like TKS, pull through and then pull that loop though the previous loop, so at the end of a stitch you have only one loop on the hook)? That way the last row looks similar to the other rows. Hope this makes sense…
You can definitely bind off at the end of your TKS piece – I chose not the bind these pieces off because I wanted to leave the last row to have plenty of room to work the seams into, but I might choose to bind off on larger sizes just for the extra firmness so my seams don’t stretch too much – it can be entirely up to you 🙂
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this is an amazing piece of crochet. I love it! I want to wear it…..maybe one day I will be able to make it. I need to practice my tunisian stitiches a bit before I try this. Beautiful!
Thank you so much! I love Tunisian crochet and I hope you love it too 🙂
I absolutely love this sweater jacket. The colors the way you designed it. The cut. Everything. . Can’t wait to see more.
Thank you so much! 😀 I am pretty fond of it too – I’m already working on the next one! 🙂