Elf Coat Pattern: Small

ElfCoatCover1

Hi there! I’m really happy I am bringing you the Elf Coat Tunisian crochet pattern today, as this piece has been my secret baby for over a year and a half now (twenty months or so if you count the first draft).

This design started as a variation on my Shaman Coat pattern, a Tunisian crochet pattern that uses Tunisian Simple Stitch to create a rectangular-based overcoat with a big magical hood.

I wanted to try a coat with a flouncier A-line shape. This is what I made the following summer – you can read more about that project on this blog post:

I got positive responses and requests for the pattern, but to be honest I personally was not satisfied on how it came out. So I sat and pondered and then tried again, using inspiration from a favorite sweater of mine and other projects I saw out there in the yarniverse including the coats of the inimitable Katwise.

TwentyMoons39

The new design I came up with was solid, but needed a lot of tweaking and figuring, plus many hours of stitching of course. All this was done gradually as my life changed very quickly around me. When I recently (finally) completed it, I felt triumphant… but this was just for one size. I still needed two more sizes to complete the pattern I had planned!

TwentyMoons13

Well, I got impatient. I have been working on this thing for a long time, and I wanted to hurry up and share it. So I decided to share the pattern for the first size here for FREE, along with basic schematic descriptions and tips for customizing. I plan on adding more pattern elements and the written pattern for larger sizes  in the future –  but for now, please enjoy the Small size and if you make something with it I would LOVE TO SEE IT! ❤ ❤ ❤

UPDATE: There is now a pattern for size Medium available on my blog, also for free! Hope you love it 😀

UPDATE: This pattern is now linked in the Ravelry Pattern database, so you can throw a gal a favorite and/or link up your projects to the Ravelry pattern page here.

UPDATE: There is now a pattern for size Large and a pattern for Corset Back Lacing!

FINAL UPDATE (FOR NOW): There is in fact a purchaseable PDF pattern that includes all THREE sizes and the tutorial for the corset back lacing available in my Ravelry Store and Etsy shop!

TwentyMoons27

Elf Coat Tunisian Crochet Pattern – Size Small

TwentyMoonsCollage1

This elegant fantasy-inspired sweater coat features an A-line silhouette with a curling, pointed geometric hem shape inspired by flower blossoms, delicate pointed bell sleeves, and of course a long and ample pointed elf hood. The variegated yarn creates dazzling prisms of color across the separately worked pieces of the coat.

TwentyMoons24

Tunisian crochet using the Tunisian Knit Stitch gives the fabric of this coat an imitation-knit texture that is sleek and beautiful as well as warm. The modular construction makes this pattern easy to customize and style, and includes tips for sizing and modification from the written pattern.

TwentyMoons7

My own vision for future versions of this pattern includes too many ideas to maybe ever actually do! I plan to add corset lacing on this for sure (this version doesn’t have it because it is already so fitted). Also faux fur hemming, like the first draft… a patchy version using yarn scraps… added pockets… an ultra-flared version using all pointed wedges, a short sleeve collared version… Just a cropped jacket version with no skirt… an ornate version with embroidery or freeform crochet… felted additions…

TwentyMoons21

You guys might have to help me out with those. 😀 Speaking of which, if you like and/or make this pattern and you have feedback for me, please leave it in the comments! Questions and suggestions are always welcome.

Elf Coat Instructions

TwentyMoonsCollage2

Materials

6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook
King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic – color shown is Autumn) – 10 skeins
Gauge for Riot DK: 9 sts & 10 rows = 2” (top of ea block = 3.5”)
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 14 skeins
Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”

Size:

Finished Measurements:
All measurements given in this pattern are APPROXIMATED and given for the original gauge using Riot DK. Substituting a different yarn or gauge may result in different measurements.
Waist: ~34″
Bust: ~34″
Hip: ~38″
Sleeve: 22″ (measured armpit to hem)
Length: ~35″

This pattern, based on a 9-wedge skirt, using 5 pointed wedges and 4 simple wedges , is equivalent to a Small size. Larger sizes can be based on an 11-wedge skirt (5 pointed wedges, 6 simple wedges) and a 13-wedge skirt (7 pointed, 6 simple). Further tips on custom sizing can be found in the pattern. There is now a written pattern for size Medium, Large can be found here. Many people have asked how to size up – there are not yet plus sizes written, but an XL will be based on a 15 wedge skirt (7 pointed 8 simple), and 2XL will be based on a 17 wedge skirt (8 pointed 9 simple). The math of the pattern is explained in the notes to each section and can be modified following the number of wedges in the skirt’s size requirements.

DSC_0352.JPG

DSC_0352.1.jpg

Notes on yarn, gauge, and sizing:

Yarn: I chose King Cole Riot DK yarn for this pattern because of it’s long color changes and pretty one-ply structure that makes the colors and the stitches well defined. The DK weight and 30% wool content creates a sleek and lightweight fabric that is also very warm. However, the big box hobby stores in the U.S do not carry this yarn – I get it from a UK website called LoveKnitting.com (which I highly recommend!).

So, I wanted to find a substitute yarn that is more commercially available and the closest I could find was Red Heart Unforgettable, which also looks gorgeous for this design. RH Unforgettable is 100% acrylic, which has the benefit of zero felting, and being allergy/vegan friendly. It is also a #4 weight yarn which means it will gauge differently.

DSC_0340.1

The two wedges worked in Red Heart Unforgettable

Gauge: Since the two yarns gauge differently, I have listed the gauges for each yarn individually under the materials section. These are using the 6.50 mm hook listed. If you use Unforgettable following it’s gauge, you can get a slightly bigger coat using the same stitch counts listed in the pattern. If you use Riot DK and follow that gauge, you will have the size coat pictured here and the measurements shown in the diagrams.

DSC_0435

9 stitches = 2″ in Riot DK

DSC_0436

10 rows = 2″ in Riot DK

DSC_0437

8 sts = 2″ in RH Unforgettable. It’s really more like 8.5 stitches, but we’re calling it 8 because of stretch!

DSC_0439

9 rows = 2″

It’s also an option to change the hook size for Unforgettable to obtain the gauge given for Riot DK, if you want to use the alternate yarn but still get the size pictured.

NOTE FOR LEFTIES: If you are left-handed, your pattern pieces will be mirrored – for instance, your left panel for the torso of the jacket will be worked from the Right Panel pattern, and vice versa.

Techniques Used:

Chain (ch)
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) – stitch used for each coat piece. Tutorial can be found on my blog here:  https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Increase (TKS inc): Increasing in Tunisian Knit Stitch. Tutorial here: – https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Decrease (TKS dec): Decreasing in Tunisian Knit stitch – tutorial here: https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
Linked Double Crochet (LDC): Creating a row of double crochet that are linked in the middle. Tutorial here:  https://moralefiber.blog/2018/02/02/linked-double-crochet-tutorial/
Slip Stitch (Sl st): Used selectively for seaming
Whip Stitch: Sewing stitch made with a tapestry needle with yarn as thread, used for seaming.

Video Tutorials: I have created a playlist of video tutorials for working all the Tunisian stitches and other special techniques needed for this design, please refer to those on my YouTube channel at the link below! 😊
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i8JEaMwoXg&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJGbejoOm

Technique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful crochet technique and I love it and highly recommend learning if you haven’t. But since this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just rows of regular stitches with some increases and decreases – that’s really it) a different technique can easily be substituted in. As long as your stitches match the gauge given, you could work this pattern in regular single crochet or regular knit stitch.

One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet or one regular knit/purl stitch.

I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single crochet, and obtained a closely matching gauge using a 4.0 mm hook.

Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does wonders for your finished piece, especially with Tunisian crochet which tends to curl. Blocking for this piece can be done simply by laying your piece out on a foam mat, using blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat and pretty and in the right shape. Using a spray bottle and plain water, wet the piece, then let dry. This works great with wool based yarns (King Cole Riot DK) and moderately well with acrylics (RH Unforgettable).

DSC_0036

Above: Large Size Elf Coat laid out flat for blocking

Okay, phew. That was a lot of info.

I tried to provide the answers to what I thought might be common questions for this pattern, based on what people have asked about similar patterns 🙂 If any of it seems confusing, please don’t hesitate to ask me here on the blog, or via my Facebook page

Now on to the pattern:

Simple Wedge (Make 4)

DSC_0360.2

Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.
Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts.
Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts.
Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.

Pointed Wedge (Make 5):

DSC_0360.3

Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 20-27: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next 8 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 29-32: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next 9 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 34-37: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next 10 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 39-42: TKS across, RP. – 25 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next 11 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 44-47: TKS across, RP. – 27 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. RP. – 33 sts
Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next 16 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 59: TKS across, RP. – 37 sts
Row 60: TKS in the next 17 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 61: TKS across, RP. – 39 sts
Row 62: TKS in the next 18 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts
Row 64: TKS in the next 19 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts
Row 66: TKS in the next 20 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 71: TKS in the next 25 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 72: TKS in the next 26 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 73: TKS in the next 27 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 74: TKS in the next 28 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 75: TKS in the next 29 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 76: TKS in the next 30 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 78: TKS in the next 32 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Skirt Construction

Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges as shown, seam all blocks together with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn.

DSC_0352.5

Since the rest of the pattern is based off of the measurements of the skirt waist, you could extend the skirt and figure the pattern out from there if you are adventurous. I have included notes in the rest of the pattern on modifying the pieces.

DSC_0352.3

Waist length for the size Small.

Skirt Border:

DSC_0363

The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked Double Crochet, worked back and forth, with increases at the point of each pointed wedge.

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of the skirt hem.
Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at the point of each pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this increase.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each point where the increase was marked.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each ch-1 from the increase points of the previous row.

Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie off. You can work extra border here if you want the skirt longer!

DSC_0364

Close-up of the increases at the point of each pointed wedge

WAIST:

The waist is worked directly onto the top of the wedges that make up the skirt. One stitch is skipped on every block, to create a slight decrease in width to accentuate the waist. This means that your size will have (14 sts x the number of total wedges) as the ending stitch count for Row 1.

DSC_0362.JPG

DSC_0361.1

Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the tops of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 8 times – or however many you need to complete the row across every wedge block. RP. – 126 sts

To modify the size here, add or subtract any rows after the first one to make it longer or shorter. To create inset pockets, see “Pockets” Instructions,  before completing the waistband. Outside pockets may be completed after the waistband is finished.

Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP.

Back Panel:

The back panel is worked the length of stitches that equals half of the number of stitches in the waist. In this size, the waist is 126 stitches. Divided by two, that’s 63 stitches.

DSC_0371.1

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 63.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 61 sts. Return pass (RP). – 63 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 63 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 51 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 40: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33 sts
Row 42: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 31 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. RP – 29 sts
Row 44: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. RP – 27 sts
Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. RP – 25 sts

If working a different size, keep working in the pattern with decreases at both ends (or as necessary) until the remaining number of stitches is 25.

Cut yarn and tie off.
Front Panel – Right:

The front panels are worked with the length of stitches equaling the half of the waistband that the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two, so each panel will be a quarter of the total waistband stitches. 126 / 4 = 31.5. Since that’s not a whole number, I will round down to 31 and fudge the seam a tiny fraction.

DSC_0352.2

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 31.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 30 sts. Return pass (RP). – 31 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 30 sts.
Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 29 sts.
Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 28 sts.
Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 27 sts.
Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 26 sts.
Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25 sts.
Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 sts.
Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23 sts.
Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22 sts.
Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21 sts.
Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20 sts.
Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19 sts.
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

If working a different size, keep working in the pattern with decreases at both ends (or as necessary) until the remaining number of stitches is 5.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Front Panel – Left:

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 31.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 30 sts. Return pass (RP). – 31 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. RP – 30 sts.
Row 28: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. RP – 29 sts.
Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. RP – 28 sts.
Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. RP – 27 sts.
Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. RP – 26 sts.
Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. RP – 25 sts.
Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. RP – 24 sts.
Row 34: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. RP – 23 sts.
Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. RP – 22 sts.
Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. RP – 21 sts.
Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. RP – 20 sts.
Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. RP – 19 sts.
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

If working a different size, keep working in the pattern with decreases at both ends (or as necessary) until the remaining number of stitches is 5.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seam the Back & Front Panels

Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch the sides of the panels together so that the long angles face each other. Stitch together the straight sides, not the angles. Once the bodice is sewn together, line the flat bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach using a 3.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn by working a slip stitch through both pieces.

DSC_0361

SLEEVE (Make 2):

The sleeves for all sizes begin with a 16-chain length, then work a portion of increases creating a slant that lines up with the slanted edge of the bodice. The sleeve then works decreases to size down for the main part of the arm (worked evenly), then increases again for the flared sleeve.

The former design placed the decrease portion at the ends of the rows, but the new 2.0 version is written so that the decreases are placed centrally, in the middle of the row. This allows the fabric to slant downward to follow the natural line of the shoulder. If you prefer working the old style, simply place the decreases at the ends of the rows instead 😊

DSC_0385.JPG

DSC_0348.1

Pictured Above: Old style sleeve. Pictured below: New style sleeve

DSC_0003 (2)DSC_0004 (2)

Ch 16.

Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts

Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts

Row 3: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 20 sts

Row 4: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 22 sts

Row 5: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 24 sts

Row 6: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 26 sts

Row 7: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 28 sts

Row 8: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 30 sts

Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts

Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 34 sts

Row 11: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 36 sts

Row 12: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 38 sts

Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts

Row 14: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts

Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 38 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts

Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 46 sts

Row 17: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 42 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts

Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 44 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 50 sts

Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 52 sts

Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts

Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 56 sts

Row 22: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 52 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 58 sts

Row 23: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 54 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 60 sts

Row 24: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. RP. – 58 sts

Row 25: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 56 sts

Row 26: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 54 sts

Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 52 sts

Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 50 sts

Row 29 TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 48 sts

Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 46 sts

Rows 31 – 72: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 46 sts

Row 73: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 40 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 48 sts

Row 74: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 48 sts

Row 75: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 42 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 50 sts

Row 76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 50 sts

Row 77: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 44sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 52 sts

Row 78: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 52 sts

Row 79: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 46 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 54 sts

Row 80: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 54 sts

Row 81: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 48 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 56 sts

Row 82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 56 sts

Row 83: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 50 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 58 sts

Row 84: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts

Row 85: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 52 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 60 sts

Row 86: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 60 sts

Row 87: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 54 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 62 sts

Row 88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 62 sts

Row 89: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 56 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 64 sts

Row 90: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 64 sts

Row 91: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 58 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 66 sts

Row 92: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 66 sts

Row 93: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 68 sts

Row 94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts

Row 95: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 70 sts

Row 96: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 70 sts

Row 97: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 72 sts

Row 98: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 72 sts

Row 99: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 66sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 74 sts

Row 100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 74 sts

Row 101: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 68 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 76 sts

Row 102: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76 sts

Row 103: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts

Row 104: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts

Row 105: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 72 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 80 sts

Row 106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts

Row 107: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 74 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82 sts

Row 108: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82 sts

Row 109: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 84 sts

Row 110: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Sleeve:

Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the piece. Seam together using a whip stitch, starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving toward the shoulder, leaving 23 rows unseamed at the top. At the underarm of the sleeve, match the remaining opening to the front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows to cap the tops of the panels, overlapping the top by 4 stitches.

DSC_0394.1

Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the front and back panels.

DSC_0398

Close-up of the sleeve fitting.

Sleeve Border

DSC_0401

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam where the sleeve is sewn together.
Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 times in the same stitch, inserting hook as if to TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join with a slip stitch in the top of the first dc.
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first stitch and 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.

Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves longer here by adding extra border rounds of LDC.

DSC_0402

Close-up of sleeve border. Beware my join is not in the same place pictured as is written in the pattern – whoops!

HOOD:

The hood is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete. This hood has a very long point – it’s a lot of hood! If you prefer a slightly shorter hood, seed “Half Hood” instructions below. Either size hood can be made and attached to any size Elf Coat.

Working a Shortened Hood (Formerly the Half Hood): This is the alternative to the full size hood design which conserves a little yarn. Like the full hood, it is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete and seamed. You can use either hood interchangeably when creating your coat, though, no matter which size you are making! To work the Shortened Hood, skip one of the two non-increase rows between each increase row for the first 76 rows written (50 rows total). Then, resume the Hood pattern as normal at Row 77.

shorthood1
Shortened Hood

DSC_0157
Full Hood

Ch 3.

Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of the next 2 chain stitches. RP. – 3 sts

Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Rows 3-4: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts

Row 5: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next
3 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts

Rows 6-7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts

Row 8: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.

Rows 9-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts

Row 11: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts

Row 12-13: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts

Row 14: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts

Rows 15-16: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts

Row 17: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts

Rows 18-19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts

Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts

Row 21-22: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts

Row 23: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 19 sts

Rows 24-25: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 19 sts

Row 26: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 21 sts

Rows 27-28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts

Row 29: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 23 sts

Rows 30-31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts

Row 32: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 25 sts

Rows 33-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts

Row 35: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 27 sts

Rows 36-37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts

Row 38: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 29 sts

Rows 39-40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts

Row 41: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 31 sts

Rows 42-43: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 31 sts

Row 44: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 33 sts

Row 45-46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts

Row 47: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 35 sts.

Rows 48-49: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 35 sts

Row 50: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 37 sts.

Rows 51-52: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts

Row 53: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 39 sts

Rows 54-55: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 39 sts

Row 56: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 41 sts

Rows 57-58: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 41 sts

Row 59: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 43 sts

Rows 60-61: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 43 sts

Row 62: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 45 sts

Rows 63-64: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts

Row 65: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 47 sts

Rows 66-67: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 47 sts

Row 68: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 49 sts

Rows 69-70: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 49 sts

Row 71: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 51 sts

Rows 72-73: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts

Row 74: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 53 sts

Rows 75-76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.

Row 77: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in ea of the next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 58 sts

Rows 78-79: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts

Row 80: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 63 sts

Rows 81-82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 63 sts

Row 83: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp) 4 times. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts

Rows 84-85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts

Row 86: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 16 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts

Rows 87-88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 73 sts

Row 89: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts

Rows 90-91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts

Row 92: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 83 sts

Rows 93-94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts

Row 95: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 88 sts

Rows 96-97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts

Row 98: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 93 sts

Rows 99-100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 93 sts

Row 101: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 98 sts

Rows 102-103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts

Row 104: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 103 sts

Rows 105-106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 103 sts

Row 107: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 108 sts

Rows 108-109: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 108 sts

Row 110: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 113 sts

Rows 111 – 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 113 sts

Row 113: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 118 sts

Rows 114 – 115: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 118 sts

Row 116: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 123

Rows 117 – 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 123 sts

Row 119: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 128 sts

Rows 120-121: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 128 sts

Row 122: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 133 sts

Rows 123-124: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 133 sts

Row 125: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 138 sts

Rows 126-127: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 138 sts

Row 128: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 143 sts

Rows 129-130: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 143 sts

Row 131: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 148 sts

Rows 132-133: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 148 sts

Row 134: TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 153 sts

Rows 135 – 151: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 153 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Hood

Fold the large triangle down the center length so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other and the wrong sides are out. With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, make a whip stitch seam starting at the point of the hood and seaming over the next 89 rows toward the opening of the hood.

Once this seam is complete, there should be 32 rows left un-seamed on either side.Turn your hood inside out so that the right sides are facing out again.

shorthood2

How did I get the number of rows to leave unseamed? It’s (8+8) to account for the small angled part on each side of the front panel, plus (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then (25-8= 17) to cover the portion of the top of the back panel not already covered by the cap of the sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded down to 64 to get an even number when I halved it – so 32 rows left unseamed on either side of the hood.

The hood then is seamed to the collar of the garment (once all sleeves and everything have been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching the points of the hood opening indicated by the red dots to the beginning of the collar on the front, also indicated by red dots.

DSC_0411.1.jpg

Seam the hood around the collar opening, matching stitch for stitch.

Front Border and Closures

We’re almost done! Next up is to use four rows of LDC to add a border across the entire front opening, beginning with the hem, working up the opening of the garment, going around the edge of the hood, and working back down the other side of the front opening. After the third row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the buttons.

DSC_0416.1

Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of the skirt border rows.

Ch 3.
Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1 LDC in the side of each row across the next wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side of each row across the front panel, waist band, and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each LDC of the skirt border.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2.

DSC_0421.1.jpg

Close-up of LDC border

Now stop and mark where your buttons will be on one side, and mark an equidistant space on the other side of the border for where you will place your loops or buttonholes. I began with one button/closure on the top and bottom edge of the waist band, then used this measurement (17 sts between each placement) to space the other buttons. I made five button placements total.

DSC_0420.1

Once your button placements have been marked, begin the fourth row of LDC.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you reach a button/closure marker. If you are on the button side, keep working LDC’s. If you are on the closure side, there are two options: You can chain a couple stitches and skip over working a couple stitches, which creates a buttonhole within the band and a tighter closure. I opted to use a loop closure, which leaves the front a little more open when buttoned.

If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big enough to fit the button through, then slip stitch in the same stitch. Continue working LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain loop at any point where a closure is marked.

Cut yarn and tie off.

DSC_0424.1

DSC_0428.1

Stopping to chain a loop closure

DSC_0431.1

After finishing the final border row, use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach each button at the marked location on the opposite side of the closures. If you’re looking to add a Corset Back Lacing, check out this blog post for that add-on pattern! If you want to add a Belted Tie to the waist of your coat for extra cinching, check out this blog post for that free add-on!

After you have completed this, you are finished with the Elf Coat! At least, until I add more bells and whistles (figuratively… I think). Weave in your ends and block your work (blocking is highly recommended for this garment).

As I mentioned, I’ll be adding more sizes and features to this pattern as I go. I hope you are inspired to create a work of wearable art all your own ❤ The best part of designing patterns and sharing them online is that I get to help create artwork with people all around the world. Thank you, thank you, thank you for visiting and creating art with me!

-MF

TwentyMoons37

TwentyMoons11

TwentyMoons23TwentyMoons14

TwentyMoons29TwentyMoons32TwentyMoons31TwentyMoons30

233 thoughts on “Elf Coat Pattern: Small

  1. I’m attempting this as my first big project.
    Doing it in TSS in a lovely bottle green color for a Link cosplay. Have figured out I can do the Hylian crest in cross stitch down the small panels at the front, and along the front of the hood 🙂
    I’ll be changing the numbers on the waistband though so that my panels end up as 33, 66, 33. Don’t want so much of a tapered fit on it…

    So far I’m most of the way through the skirt bit and it’s working up lovely, even better now that I have an actual Tunisian hook :p

    Do you have any advice on blocking it? I was thinking it would be easier to block the peices before making up is all…

    Like

    • That sounds absolutely fantastic!! I’m a big Legend of Zelda fan so this makes me soooo happy! 🙂 🙂 I would say that it would be easier to block the pieces before putting them together for sure, just make sure to use measuring tape so that all your measurements are equal and they match up well. If you are using 100% acrylic, wet blocking can be a bit more difficult and you have to soak the yarn rather than spritz it. There’s also a method for blocking acrylic called “killing” the acrylic, but I’ve not done that much so I don’t have any experience to offer. Good luck! I’d love to see what you make!

      Like

      • So I had to modify the hood. (I jumped ahead a bit XD )
        When it was made up and I tried it on it only came down to my ears so I’ve put a wedge in along the 32 unseamed stitches where I’ll be attaching to the body.

        Started right side facing using do yarn and 4mm hook:
        Attach yarn at corner and ch2
        1) *LDC in first 12, LHDC in next 10, SC in next 20, LHDC in next 10, LDC in next 12
        2) ch1 and turn, SC along,* ch2 and turn**
        Rep * to ** twice
        Rep * to * and fasten off

        Like

      • OK So, I FINALLY got the skirt section made and seamed, with one row of LDC at the bottom to keep it together better (I’ll then border fully it in the round along the edge), and I’ve done the waistband (135sts for me, panels at 33,69,33 meaning an extra 3 rows on the panels, which I’ve got figured out).
        I’m working the side panels directly into the waistband, and I’m following the bit labelled front panel – left (I’m a left-hooker, my RP goes right to left so I have to start that end)
        Only thing is it doesn’t look right: I’m decreasing at the start of the row as directed, but it’s looking more like the panel on the right hand side of the image where you’ve highlighted them. Have they been mislabeled or am I going mad?

        Like

      • Hmm that is a bit of a puzzler! So, the panels are labeled correctly in the highlighted picture as far as I can tell – the right front panel is the panel on the right side of the coat when placed on the body. When working the Right panel you should not be decreasing at the start of the row until Row 39. The Left front panel is the panel on the left side when worn, and that one starts decreasing at the beginning of the row at Row 27. Where are you beginning your decreases at the beginning of the row? Because it may be the case that you have to mirror the panels since you are a leftie 🙂

        Like

      • So, I went a bit mad last night and thought you’d mislabelled the left and right panels.
        Only just realised that my left panel was working up like your right one because I’m left-handed and my RP goes the opposite way! Doi!
        Would you mind putting a note in the pattern so that any other left-hookers that try this don’t have to unpick a dozen rows? :p

        Like

  2. It’s really astonishing, when I saw the pattern I immediately fell in love. And that it is a pattern for free, is so amazing, thx for that beautiful gesture.
    I ordered a cotton-acryl mix( wool is far too warm for me) and just get started with the coat, I have to make it larger, and I hope with your indications that will work. Also the Tunisian crochet is new to me, but thx to the internet, YouTube it is not that difficult.
    I figured out that with my cotton and a needle 5.0 I have the same gauche as your pattern, maybe the rows are a bit longer, will see what it does when I finish one wedge.
    Will let you know if bump into some problems. And I’ll show you when its finished.

    Again, thank you so much!!!

    Like

    • I am so so glad you love the design 🙂 🙂 And thank you for leaving such wonderful feedback – I’d love to see what you make when you are done, or in the process ❤ hopefully I can have the larger sizes out soon, I am working on the Medium right now and it's going very quickly!

      Like

    • Wow! Love it ! If you ever do a book on paper please e mail me I would love to buy one . Thank you . You are inspirational!

      Like

  3. I am currently making this pattern. I love it! Its fund, quick and looks gorgeous. I am making it a larger size, so it’ll be fun to see how it all works out.

    Like

  4. I am currently working on this pattern with mandala yarn & shrinking it down to fit my grand daughters. They love funky things & I think this is right up their funky alley. If you would like the changes I’ve made to fit children sizes please let me know.

    Thanks for the creation.

    Like

    • That sounds AWESOME! I would love to include children’s sizes for this pattern – if you have notes on the alterations you’ve made, you can definitely send them my way and I’ll hopefully be able to use them in the future! 😀

      Like

      • I will be finishing up size 7/8 ish for kids this weekend. My question do you want my note changes or would you like me to type it all up? Also I have 2 other sizes to make do you want them all together or as I finish them up?

        Like

      • Whatever is easiest for you of course! Just the basic changes would be sufficient, that way I have some notes to reference if/when I get around to designing the kids size. It’s especially helpful to get feedback from someone who’s done it for an actual kid, since I don’t have kids so it’s hard for me to judge lol 🙂

        Like

      • OMG!!!! I absolutely love love love this coat pattern. I had never attempted Tunisian crochet before, but your directions and tutorials were so spot on that I had to give it a try. I am just finishing up the border and I think that this size small may fit my 10 year old granddaughter. I did notice in the hood directions row 101 says to TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. I think it is suppose to be 21???? Anyway I have become a loyal follower and can’t wait until the childrens sizes are released because I know that Matilda (my 8 year old granddaughter) is going to be very jealous of her older sisters coat and going to need one also!! Have a great day and keep up the gorgeous work! Karen

        Like

      • Thank you thank you for your lovely kind words and enthusiasm! I am so glad you like the design and tutorials ❤ ❤ ❤ And yes, Row 101 should say "in ea of the next 21" sts, you are right! 😀 😀 thank you for catching that!

        Like

    • Hi, Jennifer!

      As soon as I get other projects done, I will be making these for my granddaughters, too. They are 10, 8 and 2. I’ve been crocheting for decades, but any tips you have on sizing these down will be appreciated. I have a ton of Mandala yarn! lol

      Thanks!

      Kelly

      Like

      • I have been working on a medium sized right now. I took measurements of waist, length of arms from pit, length from waist to the back of the knees, from pit to waist & from back of the neck to waist. I kept most starting chains the same but I shrunk down to a 4.5 size hook for the Tunisian stitches & an e hook for the trim stitches. On repeats I didn’t make as many rows. I would have to refer to my notes but I can try & get some of it typed up. I started a sleeve last night. I also connected each piece as I worked mainly because I hate piecing everything together in the end.

        Jen

        Like

    • I would love to know how you altered for children! I’m wanting to make three! One for me, and one for each of my daughters (6, 3years)

      Like

      • Hi Shina! Thanks so much for the feedback 🙂 🙂 I do plan on doing kids’ sizes eventually, but haven’t gotten there yet and it’s difficult to say when it will be. In the mean time, if you’re on Facebook you should check out the crochet group for my designs, The Magic Fantastic Crochet Atelier. You might be able to get pointers on how to modify the pattern if you wanted to attempt a kids version yourself! Thanks and let me know if you have any other questions 🙂

        Like

  5. Such an amazing pattern. Thank you so much for sharing it.
    I am having some issues though… I did a gauge swatch and it matched, so I got going. After I got the skirt sewn together, I was thinking it seemed too big for the person I’m making it for… so of course, now I measured and each section is 5 inches wide at the top and of course gets wider going down!
    I’m using lion brand mandala, 6.5mm hook as stated in pattern, and even checking again and again, my stitches/ rows per 2 in looks right.
    I’m going to start again with a smaller hook, and measure the first section I complete. Hopefully it’ll work for me this time.
    Any idea what’s up? Do I just not know how to do a gauge swatch? LOL, it is actually the first time I’ve ever actually needed one.
    Again, thank you so much for sharing this pattern. I’m always so amazed at the things people can create!!

    Like

    • Hi Amanda, I am so sorry that your comment seems to have been missed by me! It happens occasionally despite my best efforts 😦
      I have read about your gauge issue and that seems pretty mysterious. It’s possible your gauge changed during the course of working, which does happen sometimes (the only way to fix that is to pay attention and work your gauge swatch for a few rows before starting on your project, checking your tension). It could be that the swatch was not measured right, but if you follow the way the picture looks as far as where the stitch begins and ends and how many fit in the measurement, you should be okay. Your yarn may not be cooperating exactly, though I haven’t heard this problem from anyone else using this yarn yet. When you measure the tops, are you measuring the seams? Because depending on how loosely you seam it, the stretch and weight of all the panels together could warp the top and stretch the measurement. In this case, you would only have to add the waistband to fix your problem, which I recommend trying before making a whole new skirt anyway! 🙂 🙂 🙂

      Like

      • I think the yarn was actually closer to worsted weight! I’ve used mandala before, and reflecting on that, my previous skeins did seem much more delicate, so maybe I got a funny lot? I do think I measured the gauge wrong at the start too; I think I’m winding up closer to your Unforgettable gauge with Mandala.
        Anyways, i purchased a different yarn after i got the skirt put together and it was definitely too large for my intended recipient. I also switched to a 4.5mm hook for the skirt and 4.00mm for the body and it is working up properly now. Sleeves, hood and finishing border to go! Oh yes, and I need to find the PERFECT buttons!
        I’m going to have to get my progress put up on Ravelry soon for version 2! We’re actually getting ready to move a few states away, so things are just not going according to plan, but I am so excited to finish!
        Thank you, thank you, and thank you again!

        Like

      • Awesome, I am so interested to see your results so I’ll keep an eye out for your Ravelry project 🙂 It makes sense that Mandala would end up closer to Unforgettable, Mandala is listed as a DK I think, but sometimes yarn fiber content makes a big difference in determining yarn weights and same weight categories can sometimes gauge very differently!

        Like

  6. Pingback: Elf Coat Pattern: Medium | Morale Fiber

  7. I love this coat and would love to give it a try but I don’t crochet 😣is there a knitting patterns out there for it . Tried teaching myself to crochet needless to say it didn’t go well.

    Like

    • No, sorry! The best I can offer at the moment is the section with tips for attempting this pattern in single crochet or regular knit stitch – the pattern is very straightforward so if you can match the gauge in knitting you may be able to make it but just substituting stitch for stitch, but there is not a written pattern.

      Like

  8. Absolutely stunning! What an amazing pattern, you are truly gifted! I have never heard of a Tunisian hook, something I’m definitely going to learn to use so I can attempt this project.

    Like

  9. Im a larger lady and I am wondering if i either added to the amount of stitches or add more panels would that work.. I love this and really do want to make it. any info would be great..

    Like

    • Hi Tracie! Yes, you can just add more panels to the skirt portion and follow the suggested modifications for making larger sizes, which appear in the italic text at the beginning of each section that can be modified for larger sizes. I am also coming out with a Large size coat written pattern as soon as I possibly can, hopefully by August!

      Like

  10. I absolutely love this pattern! I have been looking for a pattern like this forever! I only wish it had a kids size…. My daughter wants it so bad!

    Like

  11. I absolutely love this pattern! I have been looking for a pattern like this forever! I only wish it had a kids size…. My daughter wants it so bad!

    Like

  12. Wow. This has got to be the best designed and beautiful coat I have ever seen. It is just wonderful. I do wish it was a knitting pattern though instead of a crochet as my crocheting is really not up to scratch for such a large project.

    Like

  13. I like the lace in the back of the previous attempt of this jacket and the fur. Would you still consider putting out that pattern? This pattern is nice but the other one would go perfect with my Ren Fest cosplay. Thank you for all the hard work you put in to give us these fabulous patterns!

    Like

    • Hi Zoeie! I plan on adding the lace back feature and a faux fur trimmed version to the new Elf Coat design, but I don’t at this point have plans to create a written pattern for the old version. I may try to put out the notes of how I did the old one in general terms, since many have asked – I’ll jot that down and try to get to it at some point! Thanks so much for your feedback! 🙂

      Like

  14. I am an experienced knitter and only know basic chain stitch in crochet and how to make the old fashioned Granny squares. I have looked at your blog and feel I can perform the crochet Tunisian knit stitch quite easily. Will this be enough for me to take on such a large project. I love this coat and I am willing to learn but I am also wondering if I will encounter any difficulties and is there anything else I should learn before I start. Also is the small pattern big enough for me I am a size 12 UK.

    Like

    • Hi Jenny! This coat mainly uses Tunisian Knit Stitch, as well as increases and decreases in that stitch – but the edges of the garment are worked in Linked double Crochet, so you would also have to learn that – but I do link to a free tutorial through my blog showing how to work this stitch! As far as sizing goes, you should be able to fit into the size small but its very hard to tell just by using bust and waist measurements, which is what I found when I looked up UK Size 12. 🙂

      Like

      • It is the simple wedge. I have made 2 now. The second is not quite as wavy. I am sure I have been picking up an extra stitch at the beginning of each pick up row. Just hoping that these wedges can be saved and the edges hidden in the seaming with a bit of pulling and stretching. I will try and send you a couple of pictures later.

        Like

      • Ok! Definitely send some pictures if you can. It sounds like you are pretty sure you are picking up an extra stitch, which can be the case easily – be sure you are counting the one loop left on your hook at the end of a return pass as the first stitch of the next row, which means you will not work into the very first stitch on the edge of your previous row. Not sure if you can hide it in the seam or not – I’ll look for your pictures 🙂

        Like

    • Ok . Quick update. I have mastered the Tunisian knit stitch and the increase and also matched the gauge. Finished my first wedge
      (it’s not perfect and does have quite a few mistakes but I am improving) and on my second. However I am having a problem with the first edge. In parts it looks like I have made an increase in the first stitch as the wedge grows out on that side quite considerably). Any tips on rectifying this problem and also will I be able to hide the wavy edges and the edge mistakes when I sew the panels together.

      Like

      • Hi Jenny! Congrats on getting down with the Tunisian knit stitch! It can be tricky but I’m sure we can figure it out – just a couple questions for you 🙂 First, which wedge are you doing? Secondly, does this apparent increase occur on the side of your dominant hand? Also, if you’d like you can send me a picture of your wavy edge via my Facebook page or my Facebook group and that will help me determine what the issue is 🙂
        http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber

        Like

  15. I would love to make this. But I’m a beginner crocheter and I have no idea how I would go about making a size 4x or 5x so it would fit me. Any help from my fellow plus size crocheters?

    Like

    • Hi Reina! I totally believe you can make this if you are excited about it, but sizing up to 4x or 5x can be tricky with this size of a crocheted garment – it might end up being very heavy, and if you are a beginner modifying a pattern can be a challenge as well. I will soon be releasing the Large size pattern for this design, which would make it easier to size up. Also, if you follow my Facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/Moralefiber, I will be announcing the opening of a Facebook group centered around my designs very soon as well. You should be able to ask this question within the group for more answers as well!

      Like

  16. Pingback: Valkyrie Top Crochet Pattern | Morale Fiber

  17. i have just started this in lions brand tweed *seven* i am using a 3.5 hook to get my nine stitch to equal 2inches and ten rows two inches, i absolutely love the colors but i am wanting to do a mandala on the back panel, any suggestions?

    Like

    • in single crochet, ive never done clothing before, or a tunision stitch, but its coming out soft and very pretty, this tweed mandala yarn is the bees knees, works very easily, even with such a small hook. i fell in love with your pattern, but of course it will not have the pretty and defined stitches like the one in the picture, but im looking forward to wearing it this fall, i will post pictures when im done with it, and i really appreciate such a pretty pattern for free, i really do! thank you!

      Like

  18. Pingback: Creating an Elven Coat | Made by PurpleSue

  19. Pingback: Elf Coat Corset Lacing | Morale Fiber

  20. Pingback: Elf Coat Pattern PDF | Morale Fiber

  21. First, I just want to say that I love love love this pattern! I came across it in one of my random searches for new patterns, and I’ve been dying to make it! This is also a new method of crochet for me, which is exciting!
    My question is, though, is it possible to change the hood shape? I’m making it for a friend, and they weren’t jazzed on the pointed hood (I don’t know why because it gives the coat such great character) Is it possible to use the hood from your Shaman Coat pattern? Since I’ve never even heard of Tunisian crochet before this pattern, I don’t know what to do and really don’t want to mess it up

    Like

    • Hi Cain! Im so glad you love the design! I would say that it is definitely possible to use the hood from the Shaman coat pattern instead, but you will have two issues to deal with if you do: first, the stitch for the Shaman coat is Tunisian simple stitch, so you will have to work Tunisian Knit stitch instead of you want it to match the rest of the coat. That’s a relatively simple fix. Less simple is that the two hoods start with two different numbers of stitches, and are attached differently. I think if you work the Shaman hood directly onto the collar of the Elf Coat, using the Shaman hood stitch counts, it would work nicely 🙂

      Like

  22. I’ve learned so much making this coat! I’m about to assemble the skirt and just finished the hood (making it so that those 2 sections match and then making the waist and front and back panels and sleeves a contrasting color) this is my first ever Tunisian project as well as my first attempt of linked double crochet. Thank you for linking to tutorials as well! This is the biggest pattern I have ever attempted and the first project I’ve ever set out to crochet for myself instead of family or friends. It’s quite an adventure

    Like

    • Wow, that’s really awesome to hear! I hope everything is going well so far with your newfound skills and I’d just love to see what it looks like if you get a picture along the way! 🙂 🙂 Thanks for the feedback and if you have any wuestions, you know where to find me 😀

      Like

  23. I’m sorry but I’ve looked over and over all versions of this pattern, and on the pointed wedge u stop at row 80 and say cut and tie off. I cant find how to decrease to get the point. Am I missing somethin? Also, I’m doing it in single crochets.

    Like

    • Hi Tommi! You are not wrong, there are no decreases in the pointed wedge. The point in this piece is formed by creating centrally located increases, which pushes the fabric upward and outward to form the point (this is helped if you grab the central stitch and stretch the point outward as you go or after the piece is finished). If you are working in Single Crochet, you will work these increases into the space between regular crochet stitches 🙂

      Like

  24. Pingback: 20+Fantastic and Lovely Free Crochet Patterns - Latest ideas information

  25. Hey, you may already be aware of this, but there is at least one phoney site claiming to sell this coat as a product, using an image from this blog post and modifying it to get color variations. (Ellafancy.com is where I saw it) I don’t know if there’s anything you can do about it, but I thought you might like to know.
    They’re “selling” it for super cheap and I thought this (and everything else on their site) looked handmade so red flags went up n sure enough here’s you.
    It just so happens I also Tunisian crochet, so I’m definitely saving this pattern for later!

    Like

    • Hi Rachel! Though I am already aware of it, I still really appreciate you taking the time to tell me! ❤ I'm figuring out if there is anything I can do about it, but in the meanwhile it helps that awesome people like you have my back 🙂 Thanks and I'm glad you like the design!

      Like

      • Hello, i would also like to point out to you that your pictures are being used to sell fake items. In fact i have foolishly fallen for it and am now in dispute with paypal and the chinese seller. Have you given enyone permission to use your pictures? If not they are doing something illegal i believe.
        Feel free to contact me about this issue. Kind Regards, Nataschja

        Like

      • Hi Nataschja, yes I am aware that there is a company that has stolen my images. I have not and never will give anyone else permission to use my images – I am sorry that they have made you a victim of their terrible business practices, too. Unfortunately I have not yet found anything that I can do to stop them. Thank you anyway 🙂

        Like

  26. I love this so much! I ended up modifying it for regular crochet, for my size (XL-1x) and added a couple features. But all the love and credit goes to you for coming up with this and giving me inspiration. I’d like to send the pictures to you of what I created.

    Like

  27. Pingback: The Stump | Morale Fiber

  28. Pingback: Clothes: Crochet Women Coat Free Patterns – CrochetAndHandiCraft.com

  29. Good evening Regina. I am a huge fan, my Lotus Mandala Sweater 2.0 turned out great. Your patterns are fantastic and the way that you write them out line by line with stitch totals at the end of each is absolutely amazing.
    I am making the Elf Coat Size Small and have decided to add the button holes instead of the loop closures. What is the diameter of the buttons that you used? I want to make certain that I have plenty of time for a button haul to arrive from Etsy while I am completing this.

    Like

    • Oh wonderful question, and thank you so much for the awesome feedback! 🙂 The buttons for the Size small were the oblong shaped ones – probably about 1.5″ inches at the longest side. The buttons for the Medium (the one with the circle buttons and buttonholes) are about 1″ to 1.25″ inches in diameter 🙂

      Like

  30. Pingback: Elf Coat [Free Crochet Pattern]

  31. Pingback: Creative Places to Buy Yarn |

      • I just saw the autocorrect 😂 is there an particular size for the hook used or does it matter?

        Like

      • 😀 😀 I used a 6.50, solid Tunisian hook, but many people prefer the cabled ones since they are less strain to use. Be sure to check your gauge though, you may need to switch hook sizes depending on your yarn 🙂

        Like

  32. Pingback: Women Coat Free Crochet Patterns

  33. Pingback: Elf Coat FAQ | Morale Fiber

  34. I would like to make this but I have a size 44 bust all I can find is a small do you have one that size I really like the pattern and would love to make it not only for me but my daughter

    Like

  35. I don’t know if they are allowed to but there is a website claiming to sell the elf coats using the same images, I know this as I tried to order one for my wife for Christmas but hasn’t turned up yet so was investigating as to whether they were legitimate. I guess not

    Like

  36. Hi I love this and I am away to start it tomorrow, hopefully, in your pattern it says 4mm crochet hook for Sc, I wanted to knit it, if I use a 4.5mm knitting needles it should work? And just do it rows of knit and purl? I am new to knitting and wanted to set myself a challenge, thanks Denise x

    Like

    • Hi Denise! I can’t say what knitting needle to use exactly, I recommend making a gauge swatch and using whatever size gets you the right gauge as for the pattern, but 4.5 is a good place to start 🙂 I use a much smaller crochet hook for the border than for the main body (6.5 for the main body) because Tunisian tends to be much tighter than regular crochet. I’ve never knitted this garment but I’ve been told you can follow the regular knit/purl back and forth and do all the increases and decreases the same way! Thanks so much and let me know if you have any other questions 🙂

      Like

      • OK no problem I am going to start it next week so I will let you know how I get on with it 😊 I will do a guage swatch and see what happens 😊 thanks again
        Denise x

        Like

  37. Pingback: Elf Coat Pattern: Large | Morale Fiber

  38. I love this pattern – I’ve nearly finished a Small (for my sister) and I have thoroughly enjoyed learning Tunisian crochet. I was wondering how this would go (or if anyone has already tried) in a lighter weight yarn?

    Like

    • Hi Tegan, thank you so much for the feedback, I’m so glad you’re enjoying the pattern! 🙂 I think I remember someone who did this in a lighter weight yarn but also with a smaller hook and gauge, to make a child sized one ❤

      Like

      • Excellent – I have seen a few really pretty yarns that I’d love to try. Your pattern is so well set-out and clear that I’m feeling confident enough to have a go at a child size one for my daughter. I imagine lots of swearing will ensue, but I’m really excited to try! Thanks again 🙂

        Like

      • Love your patterns but I had no idea that your speech was so artful also! Loved your definition of “swear words”. Lately it seems like every time I get a new skein of yarn I wind up investing 30 minutes to an hour trying to get the knots untangled! It is so nice to know those “swear words” are the reason those knots disappear and the project can finally begin!

        Like

  39. I want to thank you, not only for this adorable pattern, but for introducing me to the Tunisian knit stitch. I love crochet but the stitches never seem to be as pretty as knit. As I knit too, it was easy for me to see why they call it a knit stitch! Thank you again! This is my go to stitch for crochet projects.

    Like

    • You are so welcome Jill! I’m so glad you appreciate this stitch too, I’m a crocheter but I also knit some as well and I love the perfect blend of characteristics the Tunisian knit stitch gives the fabric – firm and thick like crochet but also a smooth surface – perfection! Lol 🙂 Thanks so much for your kind words and for the feedback ❤

      Like

  40. Hi there! Do you sell the finished product by chance? I don’t know how to crochet and this jacket is absolutely gorgeous! I would love to own one, thanks a bunch! Tiffany

    Like

    • Hi Tiffany! I so appreciate your kind words 🙂 Unfortunately I no longer have time to make these items on commission, as I spend all of my work hours designing and testing new crochet patterns. I do encourage you to shop around on Etsy for coats made from this pattern, as there are a few actual items for sale last time I looked ❤ Thank you so much for visiting!

      Like

  41. Pingback: Fox Claw Elf Coat | Morale Fiber

  42. I am absolutely loving working up this beautiful pattern!! The only part of the coat which I wish to change a bit is the placement of the buttons so that the coat closes completely and doesn’t have gaps between each button hole. Could I just add more rows to create an actual button flap with a button hole a few rows into the coat?

    Like

      • Thank you!!

        I’m wondering, is there a reason the panels aren’t made directly onto the coat instead of being sewed on? I know the panels will need to be sewn to each other, but why not crochet them directly onto the waistband?

        This pattern is absolutely gorgeous, thank you so so much!!!

        Like

      • That’s a great question and the answer is – there is no reason! It’s just the way I do it. I like it that way because it doesn’t require me to carry around the entire coat when I am working on the panels – I like the panels for long car rides, so it helps me to keep them separate and makes them more like “small projects”. But you can work them directly onto the waistband if you prefer 🙂

        Like

  43. Hi! First of all, I think this pattern is absolutely amazing, and I wish my parents would let me make it sooner! I have a question. I’m writing a ya book, in which one of my characters wears a coat/cloak very similar to this for most of the book. I’m gonna have a picture or two of her wearing it throughout the book. I would love to do this, but I don’t want to without your permission. So, I’d love to hear from you soon, thank you!
    -Grant

    Like

    • Hi Grant, that’s so cool that you are writing a book! Yes, feel free to include this design in your pictures as long as the pictures are your own. I’d love it if you’d credit the design and link back to me somewhere in the book info as well – and if you send me a link to your work when it’s done, I’ll return the favor! 😀 😀 Good luck and please let me know if you have any other questions! ❤

      Like

  44. Bonjour le manteau et plus que magnifique pourriez vous m’aider je voudrais le réaliser taille 36 mais en crochet normal et comment avoir les explication en français je ne parle pas du tout anglais un grand merci à vous de m’aider svp vous êtes une artiste💕💋

    Like

    • Hi and thank you for contacting me! Unfortunately this design is not currently available translated into French, sorry! You can try to have your computer browser translate the web page into French, but I’m not sure how to do that for your specific web browser 🙂 Google usually helps! Thank you 🙂 🙂

      Like

Leave a Reply to Tommi Cancel reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s