Elf Coat Pattern: Small

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Update! :  To view all available sizes of the FREE Elf Coat Pattern and all free add-ons please see the Elf Coat FAQ page for links! <3

Hi there! I’m really happy I am bringing you the Elf Coat Tunisian crochet pattern today, as this piece has been my secret baby for over a year and a half now (twenty months or so if you count the first draft).

This design started as a variation on my Shaman Coat pattern, a Tunisian crochet pattern that uses Tunisian Simple Stitch to create a rectangular-based overcoat with a big magical hood.

I wanted to try a coat with a flouncier A-line shape.

I got positive responses and requests for the pattern, but to be honest I personally was not satisfied on how it came out. So I sat and pondered and then tried again, using inspiration from a favorite sweater of mine and other projects I saw out there in the yarniverse including the coats of the inimitable Katwise.

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The new design I came up with was solid, but needed a lot of tweaking and figuring, plus many hours of stitching of course. All this was done gradually as my life changed very quickly around me. When I recently (finally) completed it, I felt triumphant… but this was just for one size. I still needed two more sizes to complete the pattern I had planned!

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Well, I got impatient. I have been working on this thing for a long time, and I wanted to hurry up and share it. So I decided to share the pattern for the first size here for FREE, along with basic schematic descriptions and tips for customizing. I plan on adding more pattern elements and the written pattern for larger sizes  in the future –  but for now, please enjoy the Small size and if you make something with it I would LOVE TO SEE IT! <3 <3 <3

UPDATE: There is now a pattern for size Medium available on my blog, also for free! Hope you love it 😀

UPDATE: This pattern is now linked in the Ravelry Pattern database, so you can throw a gal a favorite and/or link up your projects to the Ravelry pattern page here.

UPDATE: There is now a pattern for size Large and a pattern for Corset Back Lacing!

FINAL UPDATE (FOR NOW): There is in fact a purchaseable PDF pattern that includes all THREE sizes and the tutorial for the corset back lacing available in my Ravelry Store and Etsy shop!

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Elf Coat Tunisian Crochet Pattern – Size Small

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This elegant fantasy-inspired sweater coat features an A-line silhouette with a curling, pointed geometric hem shape inspired by flower blossoms, delicate pointed bell sleeves, and of course a long and ample pointed elf hood. The variegated yarn creates dazzling prisms of color across the separately worked pieces of the coat.

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Tunisian crochet using the Tunisian Knit Stitch gives the fabric of this coat an imitation-knit texture that is sleek and beautiful as well as warm. The modular construction makes this pattern easy to customize and style, and includes tips for sizing and modification from the written pattern.

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My own vision for future versions of this pattern includes too many ideas to maybe ever actually do! I plan to add corset lacing on this for sure (this version doesn’t have it because it is already so fitted). Also faux fur hemming, like the first draft… a patchy version using yarn scraps… added pockets… an ultra-flared version using all pointed wedges, a short sleeve collared version… Just a cropped jacket version with no skirt… an ornate version with embroidery or freeform crochet… felted additions…

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You guys might have to help me out with those. 😀 Speaking of which, if you like and/or make this pattern and you have feedback for me, please leave it in the comments! Questions and suggestions are always welcome.

Elf Coat Instructions

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Materials

6.5 (K) Tunisian hook
3.50 mm regular hook
King Cole Riot DK (#3 weight, 100 g / 324 yds, 30% wool, 70% acrylic – color shown is Autumn) – 10 skeins
Gauge for Riot DK: 9 sts & 10 rows = 2” (top of ea block = 3.5”)
Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (#4 weight, 100 g / 270 yds, 100% acrylic – color shown is Meadow) – 14 skeins
Gauge for Unforgettable: = 8 sts & 9 rows = 2”

Size:

Finished Measurements:
All measurements given in this pattern are APPROXIMATED and given for the original gauge using Riot DK. Substituting a different yarn or gauge may result in different measurements.
Waist: ~34″
Bust: ~34″
Hip: ~38″
Sleeve: 22″ (measured armpit to hem)
Length: ~35″

This pattern, based on a 9-wedge skirt, using 5 pointed wedges and 4 simple wedges , is equivalent to a Small size. Larger sizes can be based on an 11-wedge skirt (5 pointed wedges, 6 simple wedges) and a 13-wedge skirt (7 pointed, 6 simple). Further tips on custom sizing can be found in the pattern. There is now a written pattern for size Medium, Large can be found here. Many people have asked how to size up – there are not yet plus sizes written, but an XL will be based on a 15 wedge skirt (7 pointed 8 simple), and 2XL will be based on a 17 wedge skirt (8 pointed 9 simple). The math of the pattern is explained in the notes to each section and can be modified following the number of wedges in the skirt’s size requirements.

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Notes on yarn, gauge, and sizing:

Yarn: I chose King Cole Riot DK yarn for this pattern because of it’s long color changes and pretty one-ply structure that makes the colors and the stitches well defined. The DK weight and 30% wool content creates a sleek and lightweight fabric that is also very warm. However, the big box hobby stores in the U.S do not carry this yarn – I get it from a UK website called LoveKnitting.com (which I highly recommend!).

So, I wanted to find a substitute yarn that is more commercially available and the closest I could find was Red Heart Unforgettable, which also looks gorgeous for this design. RH Unforgettable is 100% acrylic, which has the benefit of zero felting, and being allergy/vegan friendly. It is also a #4 weight yarn which means it will gauge differently.

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The two wedges worked in Red Heart Unforgettable

Gauge: Since the two yarns gauge differently, I have listed the gauges for each yarn individually under the materials section. These are using the 6.50 mm hook listed. If you use Unforgettable following it’s gauge, you can get a slightly bigger coat using the same stitch counts listed in the pattern. If you use Riot DK and follow that gauge, you will have the size coat pictured here and the measurements shown in the diagrams.

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9 stitches = 2″ in Riot DK

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10 rows = 2″ in Riot DK

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8 sts = 2″ in RH Unforgettable. It’s really more like 8.5 stitches, but we’re calling it 8 because of stretch!

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9 rows = 2″

It’s also an option to change the hook size for Unforgettable to obtain the gauge given for Riot DK, if you want to use the alternate yarn but still get the size pictured.

NOTE FOR LEFTIES: If you are left-handed, your pattern pieces will be mirrored – for instance, your left panel for the torso of the jacket will be worked from the Right Panel pattern, and vice versa.

Techniques Used:

Chain (ch)
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) – stitch used for each coat piece. Tutorial can be found on my blog here:  https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Increase (TKS inc): Increasing in Tunisian Knit Stitch. Tutorial here: – https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
TKS Decrease (TKS dec): Decreasing in Tunisian Knit stitch – tutorial here: https://moralefiber.blog/2019/01/28/tunisian-knit-stitch-tutorial/
Linked Double Crochet (LDC): Creating a row of double crochet that are linked in the middle. Tutorial here:  https://moralefiber.blog/2018/02/02/linked-double-crochet-tutorial/
Slip Stitch (Sl st): Used selectively for seaming
Whip Stitch: Sewing stitch made with a tapestry needle with yarn as thread, used for seaming.

Video Tutorials: I have created a playlist of video tutorials for working all the Tunisian stitches and other special techniques needed for this design, please refer to those on my YouTube channel at the link below! 😊
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i8JEaMwoXg&list=PLwudTTp1E52YwgmfEmdmNSDgKJGbejoOm

Technique Notes: Tunisian stitch is a wonderful crochet technique and I love it and highly recommend learning if you haven’t. But since this piece uses a simple stitch pattern (it’s just rows of regular stitches with some increases and decreases – that’s really it) a different technique can easily be substituted in. As long as your stitches match the gauge given, you could work this pattern in regular single crochet or regular knit stitch.

One Tunisian stitch = one regular single crochet or one regular knit/purl stitch.

I tested out some Riot DK in rows of single crochet, and obtained a closely matching gauge using a 4.0 mm hook.

Blocking: Not absolutely necessary but it does wonders for your finished piece, especially with Tunisian crochet which tends to curl. Blocking for this piece can be done simply by laying your piece out on a foam mat, using blocking pins to stretch it and make it lay flat and pretty and in the right shape. Using a spray bottle and plain water, wet the piece, then let dry. This works great with wool based yarns (King Cole Riot DK) and moderately well with acrylics (RH Unforgettable).

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Above: Large Size Elf Coat laid out flat for blocking

Okay, phew. That was a lot of info.

I tried to provide the answers to what I thought might be common questions for this pattern, based on what people have asked about similar patterns 🙂 If any of it seems confusing, please don’t hesitate to ask me here on the blog, or via my Facebook page

Now on to the pattern:

Instructions

The pieces of this coat can be made in any order.

Simple Wedge (Make 4)

Both the simple wedges and the pointed wedges can be shortened by subtracting 8 rows right after the initial Row 1.

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Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea ch st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-18: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 20-35: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next 7 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts.
Rows 37-52: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 53: TKS in the next 8 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts.
Row 54-69: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 9 sts, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next st, increase in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts.
Row 71-80: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Cut yarn and tie off.

Pointed Wedge (Make 5):

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Ch 15.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 13 sts. Return pass (RP). – 15 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 15 sts
Rows 3-9: TKS across, RP. – 15 sts
Row 10: TKS in the next 6 sts, pick up a lp in the next space to increase. TKS in the next st, pick up a lp in the next sp to increase. TKS in the next 7 sts. RP. – 17 sts
Rows 11-18: TKS across, RP. – 17 sts
Row 19: TKS in the next 7 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 8 sts. RP. – 19 sts
Rows 20-27: TKS across, RP. – 19 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next 8 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. RP. – 21 sts
Rows 29-32: TKS across, RP. – 21 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next 9 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 10 sts. RP. – 23 sts
Rows 34-37: TKS across, RP. – 23 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next 10 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. RP. – 25 sts
Rows 39-42: TKS across, RP. – 25 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next 11 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts. RP. – 27 sts
Rows 44-47: TKS across, RP. – 27 sts
Row 48: TKS in the next 12 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. RP. – 29 sts
Rows 49-50: TKS across, RP. – 29 sts
Row 51: TKS in the next 13 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 52-53: TKS across, RP. – 31 sts
Row 54: TKS in the next 14 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. RP. – 33 sts
Row 55: TKS across, RP. – 33 sts
Row 56: TKS in the next 15 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 57: TKS across, RP. – 35 sts
Row 58: TKS in the next 16 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 59: TKS across, RP. – 37 sts
Row 60: TKS in the next 17 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 61: TKS across, RP. – 39 sts
Row 62: TKS in the next 18 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 63: TKS across, RP. – 41 sts
Row 64: TKS in the next 19 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 65: TKS across, RP. – 43 sts
Row 66: TKS in the next 20 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 67: TKS in the next 21 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 68: TKS in the next 22 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 69: TKS in the next 23 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 70: TKS in the next 24 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 71: TKS in the next 25 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 72: TKS in the next 26 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 73: TKS in the next 27 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 74: TKS in the next 28 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 75: TKS in the next 29 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts. RP. – 63 sts
Row 76: TKS in the next 30 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. RP. – 65 sts
Row 77: TKS in the next 31 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts. RP. – 67 sts
Row 78: TKS in the next 32 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. RP. – 69 sts
Row 79: TKS in the next 33 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts. RP. – 71 sts
Row 80: TKS in the next 34 sts, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next st, inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. RP. – 73 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Skirt Construction

Alternating simple wedges with pointed wedges as shown, seam all blocks together with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn.

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Since the rest of the pattern is based off of the measurements of the skirt waist, you could extend the skirt and figure the pattern out from there if you are adventurous. I have included notes in the rest of the pattern on modifying the pieces.

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Waist length for the size Small.

Skirt Border:

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The skirt border consists of 3 rows of Linked Double Crochet, worked back and forth, with increases at the point of each pointed wedge.

With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at one end of the skirt hem.
Row 1: Ch 3, LDC in each stitch across, inserting hook as if to TKS. 3 LDC at the point of each pointed wedge, mark the middle stitch of this increase.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) at each point where the increase was marked.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. LDC in ea st across working (2 LDC, ch 1, 2 LDC) in each ch-1 from the increase points of the previous row.

Once third row is completed, cut yarn and tie off. You can work extra border here if you want the skirt longer!

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Close-up of the increases at the point of each pointed wedge

WAIST:

The waist is worked directly onto the top of the wedges that make up the skirt. One stitch is skipped on every block, to create a slight decrease in width to accentuate the waist. This means that your size will have (14 sts x the number of total wedges) as the ending stitch count for Row 1.

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Row 1: RS facing, attach yarn at end of the tops of the seamed wedges by pulling up a loop using TKS. With 6.50 mm Tunisian hook, pick up a loop using TKS from ea of the next 13 sts. Sk next st and seam. (Pick up a loop from ea of the next 14 sts, sk next st and seam) 8 times – or however many you need to complete the row across every wedge block. RP. – 126 sts

To modify the size here, add or subtract any rows after the first one to make it longer or shorter. To create inset pockets, see “Pockets” Instructions,  before completing the waistband. Outside pockets may be completed after the waistband is finished.

Rows 2 – 17: TKS in ea st across. RP.

Back Panel:

The back panel is worked the length of stitches that equals half of the number of stitches in the waist. In this size, the waist is 126 stitches. Divided by two, that’s 63 stitches.

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With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 63.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 61 sts. Return pass (RP). – 63 stitches
Row 2: In TKS, pick up a lp from ea st across the row. RP. – 63 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 55 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 61 sts
Row 28: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 53 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 59 sts
Row 29: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 51 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 57 sts
Row 30: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 55 sts
Row 31: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 53 sts
Row 32: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 51 sts
Row 33: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 49 sts
Row 34: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 47 sts
Row 35: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 45 sts
Row 36: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 43 sts
Row 37: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. Tks in the next 2 sts. RP. – 41 sts
Row 38: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 39 sts
Row 39: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 37 sts
Row 40: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP. – 35 sts
Row 41: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 33 sts
Row 42: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 2 sts. RP – 31 sts
Row 43: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. RP – 29 sts
Row 44: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. RP – 27 sts
Row 45: TKS in the next st, TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS dec in the next 2 sts. RP – 25 sts

If working a different size, keep working in the pattern with decreases at both ends (or as necessary) until the remaining number of stitches is 25.

Cut yarn and tie off.
Front Panel – Right:

The front panels are worked with the length of stitches equaling the half of the waistband that the back panel won’t be taking up. There’s two, so each panel will be a quarter of the total waistband stitches. 126 / 4 = 31.5. Since that’s not a whole number, I will round down to 31 and fudge the seam a tiny fraction.

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With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 31.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 30 sts. Return pass (RP). – 31 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 30 sts.
Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 29 sts.
Row 29: TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 28 sts.
Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 27 sts.
Row 31: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 26 sts.
Row 32: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 25 sts.
Row 33: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 24 sts.
Row 34: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 23 sts.
Row 35: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 22 sts.
Row 36: TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 21 sts.
Row 37: TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 20 sts.
Row 38: TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP – 19 sts.
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 45: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

If working a different size, keep working in the pattern with decreases at both ends (or as necessary) until the remaining number of stitches is 5.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Front Panel – Left:

With 6.50 mm Tunisian Hook, Ch 31.
Row 1: Pick up a st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 30 sts. Return pass (RP). – 31 stitches
Row 2: TKS in ea st across the row. RP. – 31 sts
Rows 3 – 26 : Rpt Row 2.
Row 27: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts. RP – 30 sts.
Row 28: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts. RP – 29 sts.
Row 29: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts. RP – 28 sts.
Row 30: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. RP – 27 sts.
Row 31: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. RP – 26 sts.
Row 32: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. RP – 25 sts.
Row 33: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. RP – 24 sts.
Row 34: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. RP – 23 sts.
Row 35: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. RP – 22 sts.
Row 36: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. RP – 21 sts.
Row 37: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. RP – 20 sts.
Row 38: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts. RP – 19 sts.
Row 39: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts
Row 40: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKs in ea of the next 11 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts
Row 41: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts
Row 42: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts
Row 43: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts
Row 44: TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next st. Dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

If working a different size, keep working in the pattern with decreases at both ends (or as necessary) until the remaining number of stitches is 5.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seam the Back & Front Panels

Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch the sides of the panels together so that the long angles face each other. Stitch together the straight sides, not the angles. Once the bodice is sewn together, line the flat bottom up with the waist of the skirt and attach using a 3.50 mm crochet hook and a ball of yarn by working a slip stitch through both pieces.

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SLEEVE (Make 2):

The sleeves for all sizes begin with a 16-chain length, then work a portion of increases creating a slant that lines up with the slanted edge of the bodice. The sleeve then works decreases to size down for the main part of the arm (worked evenly), then increases again for the flared sleeve.

The former design placed the decrease portion at the ends of the rows, but the new 2.0 version is written so that the decreases are placed centrally, in the middle of the row. This allows the fabric to slant downward to follow the natural line of the shoulder. If you prefer working the old style, simply place the decreases at the ends of the rows instead 😊

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Pictured Above: Old style sleeve. Pictured below: New style sleeve

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Ch 16.

Row 1: Pick up a lp in the 2nd ch from the hk and in ea of the next 14 ch sts. RP. – 16 sts

Row 2: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 12 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 18 sts

Row 3: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 14 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 20 sts

Row 4: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 16 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 22 sts

Row 5: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 18 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 24 sts

Row 6: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 20 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 26 sts

Row 7: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 22 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 28 sts

Row 8: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 24 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 30 sts

Row 9: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 26 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 32 sts

Row 10: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 28 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 34 sts

Row 11: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 30 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 36 sts

Row 12: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 32 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 38 sts

Row 13: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 34 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 40 sts

Row 14: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 36 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 42 sts

Row 15: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 38 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 44 sts

Row 16: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 40 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 46 sts

Row 17: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 42 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 48 sts

Row 18: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 44 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 50 sts

Row 19: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 46 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 52 sts

Row 20: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 48 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 54 sts

Row 21: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 50 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 56 sts

Row 22: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 52 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 58 sts

Row 23: TKS in the next st, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 54 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final 2 sts. RP. – 60 sts

Row 24: TKS in ea of the next 24 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts. RP. – 58 sts

Row 25: TKS in ea of the next 23 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 24 sts. RP. – 56 sts

Row 26: TKS in ea of the next 22 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 23 sts. RP. – 54 sts

Row 27: TKS in ea of the next 21 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 22 sts. RP. – 52 sts

Row 28: TKS in ea of the next 20 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 21 sts. RP. – 50 sts

Row 29 TKS in ea of the next 19 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 20 sts. RP. – 48 sts

Row 30: TKS in ea of the next 18 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 6 sts. TKS dec over the next 2 sts. TKS in the next 19 sts. RP. – 46 sts

Rows 31 – 72: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 46 sts

Row 73: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 40 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 48 sts

Row 74: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 48 sts

Row 75: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 42 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 50 sts

Row 76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 50 sts

Row 77: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 44sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 52 sts

Row 78: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 52 sts

Row 79: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 46 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 54 sts

Row 80: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 54 sts

Row 81: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 48 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 56 sts

Row 82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 56 sts

Row 83: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 50 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 58 sts

Row 84: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts

Row 85: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 52 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 60 sts

Row 86: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 60 sts

Row 87: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 54 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 62 sts

Row 88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 62 sts

Row 89: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 56 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 64 sts

Row 90: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 64 sts

Row 91: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 58 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 66 sts

Row 92: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 66 sts

Row 93: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 60 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 68 sts

Row 94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts

Row 95: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 62 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 70 sts

Row 96: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 70 sts

Row 97: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 64 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 72 sts

Row 98: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 72 sts

Row 99: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 66sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 74 sts

Row 100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 74 sts

Row 101: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 68 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 76 sts

Row 102: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 76 sts

Row 103: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 70 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts

Row 104: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts

Row 105: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 72 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 80 sts

Row 106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 80 sts

Row 107: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 74 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 82 sts

Row 108: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 82 sts

Row 109: TKS in the next 2 sts, TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 76 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. RP. – 84 sts

Row 110: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 84 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Sleeve:

Fold the sleeve in half down the length of the piece. Seam together using a whip stitch, starting at the flare of the sleeve and moving toward the shoulder, leaving 23 rows unseamed at the top. At the underarm of the sleeve, match the remaining opening to the front and back panel sides, using the top 4 rows to cap the tops of the panels, overlapping the top by 4 stitches.

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Seam the sleeve using a whip stitch around the front and back panels.

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Close-up of the sleeve fitting.

Sleeve Border

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With 3.50 mm hook, attach yarn at the seam where the sleeve is sewn together.
Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count as first st), LDC 3 times in the same stitch, inserting hook as if to TKS. LDC in ea stitch around the sleeve. Join with a slip stitch in the top of the first dc.
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count) LDC in the first stitch and 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count), LDC in ea of the next 2 stitches. LDC 3 times in the next st. LDC in ea stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.

Cut yarn and tie off. You can make the sleeves longer here by adding extra border rounds of LDC.

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Close-up of sleeve border. Beware my join is not in the same place pictured as is written in the pattern – whoops!

HOOD:

The hood is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete. This hood has a very long point – it’s a lot of hood! If you prefer a slightly shorter hood, seed “Half Hood” instructions below. Either size hood can be made and attached to any size Elf Coat.

Working a Shortened Hood (Formerly the Half Hood): This is the alternative to the full size hood design which conserves a little yarn. Like the full hood, it is worked as a separate piece consisting of one large triangle, folded in half when complete and seamed. You can use either hood interchangeably when creating your coat, though, no matter which size you are making! To work the Shortened Hood, skip one of the two non-increase rows between each increase row for the first 76 rows written (50 rows total). Then, resume the Hood pattern as normal at Row 77.

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Shortened Hood

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Full Hood

Ch 3.

Row 1: Draw up a loop from the back of each of the next 2 chain stitches. RP. – 3 sts

Row 2: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next st. TKS inc in the next space. TKS in the final st. RP. – 5 sts

Rows 3-4: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 5 sts

Row 5: TKS inc in the first space. TKS in the next
3 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 7 sts

Rows 6-7: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 7 sts

Row 8: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 5 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 9 sts.

Rows 9-10: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 9 sts

Row 11: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 7 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 11 sts

Row 12-13: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 11 sts

Row 14: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 9 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 13 sts

Rows 15-16: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 13 sts

Row 17: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 11 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 15 sts

Rows 18-19: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 15 sts

Row 20: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 13 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 17 sts

Row 21-22: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 17 sts

Row 23: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 19 sts

Rows 24-25: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 19 sts

Row 26: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 17 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 21 sts

Rows 27-28: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 21 sts

Row 29: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 19 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 23 sts

Rows 30-31: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 23 sts

Row 32: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 21 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 25 sts

Rows 33-34: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 25 sts

Row 35: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 23 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 27 sts

Rows 36-37: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 27 sts

Row 38: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 25 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 29 sts

Rows 39-40: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 29 sts

Row 41: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 27 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 31 sts

Rows 42-43: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 31 sts

Row 44: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 29 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 33 sts

Row 45-46: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 33 sts

Row 47: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 31 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 35 sts.

Rows 48-49: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 35 sts

Row 50: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 33 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 37 sts.

Rows 51-52: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 37 sts

Row 53: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 35 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 39 sts

Rows 54-55: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 39 sts

Row 56: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 37 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 41 sts

Rows 57-58: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 41 sts

Row 59: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 39 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 43 sts

Rows 60-61: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 43 sts

Row 62: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 41 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 45 sts

Rows 63-64: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 45 sts

Row 65: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 43 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 47 sts

Rows 66-67: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 47 sts

Row 68: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 45 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 49 sts

Rows 69-70: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 49 sts

Row 71: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 47 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 51 sts

Rows 72-73: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 51 sts

Row 74: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in the next 49 sts. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 53 sts

Rows 75-76: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 53 sts.

Row 77: TKS inc in the first sp. TKS in ea of the next 12 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 13 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 58 sts

Rows 78-79: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 58 sts

Row 80: TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 14 sts) 3 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the final st. RP. – 63 sts

Rows 81-82: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 63 sts

Row 83: TKS inc in the next sp. (TKS in ea of the next 15 sts. TKS inc in the next sp) 4 times. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 68 sts

Rows 84-85: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 68 sts

Row 86: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 16 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. RP. – 73 sts

Rows 87-88: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 73 sts

Row 89: TKS in the next st. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 17 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 78 sts

Rows 90-91: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 78 sts

Row 92: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 18 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in the next 3 sts. RP. – 83 sts

Rows 93-94: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 83 sts

Row 95: TKS in ea of the next 2 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 19 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 88 sts

Rows 96-97: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 88 sts

Row 98: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 20 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. RP. – 93 sts

Rows 99-100: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 93 sts

Row 101: TKS in ea of the next 3 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 21 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 98 sts

Rows 102-103: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 98 sts

Row 104: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 22 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. RP. – 103 sts

Rows 105-106: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 103 sts

Row 107: TKS in ea of the next 4 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 23 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 108 sts

Rows 108-109: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 108 sts

Row 110: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 24 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. RP. – 113 sts

Rows 111 – 112: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 113 sts

Row 113: TKS in ea of the next 5 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 25 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 118 sts

Rows 114 – 115: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 118 sts

Row 116: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 26 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. RP. – 123

Rows 117 – 118: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 123 sts

Row 119: TKS in ea of the next 6 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 27 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 128 sts

Rows 120-121: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 128 sts

Row 122: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 28 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. RP. – 133 sts

Rows 123-124: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 133 sts

Row 125: TKS in ea of the next 7 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 29 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 138 sts

Rows 126-127: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 138 sts

Row 128: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 30 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. RP. – 143 sts

Rows 129-130: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 143 sts

Row 131: TKS in ea of the next 8 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 31 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 148 sts

Rows 132-133: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 148 sts

Row 134: TKS in ea of the next 9 sts. (TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 32 sts) 4 times. TKS inc in the next sp. TKS in ea of the next 10 sts. RP. – 153 sts

Rows 135 – 151: TKS in ea st across. RP. – 153 sts

Cut yarn and tie off.

Seaming the Hood

Fold the large triangle down the center length so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other and the wrong sides are out. With a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, make a whip stitch seam starting at the point of the hood and seaming over the next 89 rows toward the opening of the hood.

Once this seam is complete, there should be 32 rows left un-seamed on either side.Turn your hood inside out so that the right sides are facing out again.

shorthood2

How did I get the number of rows to leave unseamed? It’s (8+8) to account for the small angled part on each side of the front panel, plus (16+16) to cover the tops of the sleeves, then (25-8= 17) to cover the portion of the top of the back panel not already covered by the cap of the sleeves. This equals 65, but I rounded down to 64 to get an even number when I halved it – so 32 rows left unseamed on either side of the hood.

The hood then is seamed to the collar of the garment (once all sleeves and everything have been seamed) using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn. Whip stitch the hood, matching the points of the hood opening indicated by the red dots to the beginning of the collar on the front, also indicated by red dots.

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Seam the hood around the collar opening, matching stitch for stitch.

Front Border and Closures

We’re almost done! Next up is to use four rows of LDC to add a border across the entire front opening, beginning with the hem, working up the opening of the garment, going around the edge of the hood, and working back down the other side of the front opening. After the third row, we’ll stop and mark the placement of the buttons.

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Using a 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the side of the skirt border rows.

Ch 3.
Row 1: 2 LDC in the side of each LDC from the border rows (6 LDC if you did 3 border rows.) 1 LDC in the side of each row across the next wedge, waist band, and front panel. 1 LDC in ea st across the brim of the hood. 1 LDC in the side of each row across the front panel, waist band, and the next wedge. 2 LDC in the side of each LDC of the skirt border.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 1.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea LDC of Row 2.

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Close-up of LDC border

Now stop and mark where your buttons will be on one side, and mark an equidistant space on the other side of the border for where you will place your loops or buttonholes. I began with one button/closure on the top and bottom edge of the waist band, then used this measurement (17 sts between each placement) to space the other buttons. I made five button placements total.

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Once your button placements have been marked, begin the fourth row of LDC.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 1 LDC in ea st across until you reach a button/closure marker. If you are on the button side, keep working LDC’s. If you are on the closure side, there are two options: You can chain a couple stitches and skip over working a couple stitches, which creates a buttonhole within the band and a tighter closure. I opted to use a loop closure, which leaves the front a little more open when buttoned.

If using a loop closure, chain a loop just big enough to fit the button through, then slip stitch in the same stitch. Continue working LDC’s across the band, stopping to work a chain loop at any point where a closure is marked.

Cut yarn and tie off.

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Stopping to chain a loop closure

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After finishing the final border row, use a tapestry needle and a length of yarn to attach each button at the marked location on the opposite side of the closures. If you’re looking to add a Corset Back Lacing, check out this blog post for that add-on pattern! If you want to add a Belted Tie to the waist of your coat for extra cinching, check out this blog post for that free add-on!

After you have completed this, you are finished with the Elf Coat! At least, until I add more bells and whistles (figuratively… I think). Weave in your ends and block your work (blocking is highly recommended for this garment).

As I mentioned, I’ll be adding more sizes and features to this pattern as I go. I hope you are inspired to create a work of wearable art all your own <3 The best part of designing patterns and sharing them online is that I get to help create artwork with people all around the world. Thank you, thank you, thank you for visiting and creating art with me!

-MF

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261 thoughts on “Elf Coat Pattern: Small

  1. Pingback: Casaco de elfo arco-íris padrão sem crochê - Só eu

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  3. Just finished the elf coat (finally!) and absolutely love how it turned out. I decided to add pockets and ended up using rows 26/27 of your Novella shawl pattern to add a fur trim (go for faux thick & quick, red panda) to the hood on row 3 of the border and to the sleeves and pockets.

    I did alter the connection between the hood and the rest of the coat from whip stitch to a row of sc, since I found that the entire thing (both hood and coat) is bottom-heavy. It seems to be doing the job better than the connection between the waist and top. I love this design, but I think if I were to do it again I would want to use a yarn that doesn’t have as much stretch (I used red heart unforgettable, polo).

    Anyway, thanks so much for posting it and inspiring me to start tunisian crochet!

    • Wow thank you for the amazing feedback! I agree that the hood connection could use strengthening – I love your idea to use a sc connection there. I will definitely try that next time 🙂 🙂 So glad you enjoyed!

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  5. Hello. I’m working on the elf coat & have a question about the waist area and remaining pattern. Can I use a regular crochet hook, if so what size? I’m not able to do the other stitch you have in the pattern. It’s just a little bit to complicated for me to understand or do. I’m also having trouble holding the hooks required for the pattern. I’ve been using a regular 3.5 mm hook up until now.

    • Hi Denise! I have some notes about how to use regular crochet hook and regular stitching included in the introduction & notes area of the pattern , before all the materials and pattern is listed. Take a look there – that’s all I know about it, as I haven’t done it myself! 🙂

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  7. Hi,
    I absolutely LOVE this pattern. I find it very similar to the pattern linked below, in which I have been experimenting with for the past 6 (ish) months. I want to try making this pattern, but I was wondering if it is possible to make the pointed wedges non-pointed, like the simple wedges, but have the same amount of flare that there would be if they were pointed. (I hope that makes sense) I am willing to experiment, but I figure becuase I am not familiar with Tunisian crochet, I would ask to see if you had anything to say about it.

    https://www.pinterest.es/pin/1266706133443280/

    • Hi Lina, thank you so much and that is an interesting question! To achieve a full bottom skirt without making the panels pointed, I would personally try two things: 1) do all the wedges the same( instead of simple wedges + modified wider wedge). 2) Do all wedges so that the amount of stitches on the last row is the same. The amount of stitches on the pointed wedge last row may be too many – so you’ll have to figure out the math for yourself, but to make a wider wedge without a point, you’ll need to figure out how many stitches you want on the last row of the wedge (this will equate to a fraction of the intended circumference of the bottom of your coat). Then, divide the difference between the ending amount of stitches and the beginning amount of stitches, then divide by how many rows is in the wedge (80). So if you want your wedge to end up with, say 65 stitches (I made that number up off the top of my head), you’ll subtract 15 from 65 (50) then divide by 80. That’s .63 of a stitch extra per row. Now since you clearly can’t add half a stitch extra per row, that would amount to adding one extra stitch per every other row. Since you aren’t shaping the wedge to a point, these increases can be added in any ratio and at any place in the row. Again, this was just example math, I’m not sure how many stitches you’d actually want to add per row 🙂 That’ll depend on the size you want.

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  9. Hi I absolutely love this just wondering is there a knitted version written pattern as I cannot find one anywhere and really really want to make it
    Thanks!

    • Hi Rachel! Sorry, there is no knitted version of this pattern 🙂 But I believe if you search Ravelry you can find something similar, by someone else! I’m pretty sure I’ve seen a knitted garment similar to this one around somewhere! 🙂

  10. Hi Regina! Where did you get your buttons? I’m having a hard time finding something similar.

  11. Hi!
    Just finished this pattern and I’m absolutely in love with it! 😍
    The only issue that I have now is that it came out a bit too right under the arms where the sleeves meet front and back panels. Not sure if there is anything I can do about it now when the work is over, though. 🧐
    Maybe you have a suggestion?

    Once my 6-years old daughter saw this coat, she’s now asking every single day to make „a matching coat” for her,
    I can try to experiment, but maybe you have kids version of this pattern? 🙂

    • Hi Marta! I know exactly what you mean as I do have some difficulty with the underarm area of this coat on the small size, it can feel a bit tight, and especially if you’ve made a sturdy seam there it may come out even tighter. I have definitely seen experienced crafters insert a gusset in that area to ease the sleeves, though you’d have to cut into the seams to get that done! If you don’t want to go back in to alter the work, you can try aggressively blocking the arm and shoulder area with water, often times small issue like that can be “convinced” to straighten up if it’s gently stretched enough 🙂

      I unfortunately don’t have a kid’s size pattern for this design, although I’ve thought about it a lot! Many people have had success making a kid’s version by just downsizing the hook and yarn size until you can make one small enough to fit a younger person, but that does take some guesswork and/or math haha!

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