This post is part of a series of tutorials on how to create your own unique crochet pixie pocket belt – to read more about this series visit the Intro page.
Shaping Circular Crochet
The following is a basic overview of the geometry of shaping circular crochet, which I’ll use in the next section to create this fun pixie pouch!
In circular crochet, your increases represent building “outward” to add to the circumference of the object, while your stitches represent building “upward” to add to the diameter/radius of the circle. If you don’t increase at the same rate as you add rows of stitches, your circle will start to tighten inward because you don’t have enough circumference to allow it to keep building outward. This is used to our advantage to make fun shapes – adding rows where you don’t increase periodically will change the way your piece is shaped, and you can make fun points and spheres and all sorts of things.
On the other hand, adding too many increases per round will make your circumference too full, and your piece will start to ruffle at the edges on the same principle as making we saw making ruffles and curlicues.
Additionally, the HEIGHT of your stitch will change the required rate of increase – so if you want to start a flat circle in double crochet instead of single crochet, you can’t start with the same number as you would with sc, because you are starting with a greater height so it requires a greater circumference – I generally use 12 dc to start a flat circle, and add 12 inc every round to keep it flat. On the same principle, if I want to start a pointed conical piece in dc, starting with 6 dc is ideal because it begins with a nice taper.
Manipulated circles is how I make many of my utility belt pockets, including the one here! So, let’s get started.
Pointed Pixie Pouch
Notes: I’m using a 3.5 mm hook and some handspun yarn I’ve had forever, and doing non-continuous circular crochet, which means I’m using a chain-3 length to begin (not counting as first dc) and using slip stitch in the first dc to end each round. I have left the beginning and end instructions off the shorthand pattern because they are the same for each round.
MR (Magic Ring – covered in PBT: Circle Pocket Part 1)
- 6 dc into the ring. Tighten ring. – 6 dc
I want this pouch to be pretty pointy at the bottom, so I’ll add another row of dc without increasing.
2. Dc even – 6 dc
Next, I want to start increasing as I move upward to make the pouch big enough to put things into, but at this point I have a pretty tight round of dc. If I increase at the same rate that I started (adding 6 stitches for the next round, or increasing in ea stitch) I will end up with an abrupt change in circumference.
If you like the bulbous look, no problem, but I want to make my change smoother and more gradual, so I will be increasing at half the rate here – or adding 3 stitches for every increase round.
3. Inc on 2 – 9 dc
To continue the gradual lengthening, I add another non-increasing round.
4. Dc even – 9 dc
Then another 3 stitch increase round.
5. Inc on 3 – 12 dc
Then even again.
6. Dc even – 12 dc
Now, I’m going to prepare to fatten this puppy up. That means I’m going to do two rounds in a row that each increase by three, creating a less gradual change in circumference – that will bring me up to 18 dc..
7. Inc on 4 – 15 dc
8. Inc on 5 – 18 dc
…18 dc is divisible by 6, so I can now start increasing by 6 on each increase round to make a bulbous shape and a bigger part of the pouch. Since 18 divided by 6 is three, I will go back to increasing every 3 stitches to make a total of 6 stitches added to this round.
9. Inc on 3 – 24 dc.
10. Inc on 4 – 30 dc.
11. Inc on 5 – 36 dc.
12. Inc on 6 – 42 dc.
13. Dc even – 42 dc.
14. Dc even – 42 dc.
15. Dec (decrease, or dc2tog) on 6 – 36 dc
16. Ch 3 (counts as first hdc + ch 1), sk next st, *hdc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st* around.
17. 2 sc in ea sp around
Cut yarn and tie off. I left a row full of chain-1 spaces at the top of the pouch so that I’d have some place to string the little drawstring through. To make the drawstring, just chain a length and tie off, then weave it through the spaces. I like to finish mine with little simple tassels to hide the yarn tails.
I also attached a bead by using a tapestry needle and a spare length of yarn and simply sewing it onto the pouch for a little extra decoration.
There you have the third and final pocket I will be completing for this particular belt! In the next post of this series, I’ll be demonstrating how to finally attach these pockets to the belt base.
The drawstring pouch style pockets are super useful and can also be a great place to feature a special yarn or texture. Here are some other examples of pouches I’ve made in this style:
I would love to know the pattern you used for the shell pocket shape. I know the base is pointed but how did you do that surface texture? It’s so cute! Thank you in advance!
Hi Hunter! I believe I did a regular pointed looking pouch in hdc or double crochet, just a sort of cone shape. Then, I took the same yarn and crocheted singles, hdc, and dc directly onto the surface of the pouch, creating the ridges that make it look like a shell. It was freeform, so that’s about the best I can do for my notes on this, but hopefully it helps! 🙂 🙂
How do you crochet into the surface of a project? I didn’t know you could do that!
Hahaha, oh heck yeah you can! So the best part about crochet in my opinion is that you can literally do it anywhere you can stick your hook. So crochet on the surface of a piece, just insert your hook in between stitches somewhere and make your hook come out the front side. Create a stitch, then repeat. I highly encourage you to play around with this and see what you can do. You may want to check out my Morel Mushroom Pouch tutorial, which uses surface crochet to create texture on the mushroom cap and has some tutorial photos to give you a better idea: