PBT: Belt Base

This post is part of a series of tutorials on how to create your own unique crochet pixie pocket belt – too read more about this series visit the Intro page.

Belt Base


The belt base is where I usually start, using one of the main colors of yarn and essentially creating one long, skinny rectangle by stitching just a few rows onto a long base chain. This belt was started by using my 5.00 mm hook and the double chain technique – regular chaining is fine, I just prefer stitching into the double chain for longer projects.

Make a base chain long enough to wrap around the intended set of hips, and then some. You will most likely lose an inch or two during the process of completing the belt due to the tight slip stitching added later.

Then, add a few rows of stitching to create the belt width. I did a row of double crochet, then turned and did a row of (dc, ch 1, sk next st) repeats to add visual interest. Next, I turned and worked a single crochet in each stitch and chain space (so that I have something solid to slip stitch into at the top of the belt in the later steps).


I got creative here and decided I wanted the middle of the back of the belt to have a little point to it, so I placed a 3-stitch decrease there in each row.


Once you have your desired width, prepare to rotate and work into the end/side of the belt.


I create a pointed triangle shape by working three tall connected stitches across the belt ends. These are trtr (triple treble) stitches, which are equivalent to 6 chain stitches, so I chain 6 (counts as first tr tr), then insert the hook into the middle of the side of the belt. *YO 4 times and draw up a loop from under, then draw through 2 loops on the hook 4 times, leaving the last loop on the hook.

Repeat from * working into the other end of the belt side, then YO and draw through all loops on the hook. For a great explanation on working tall stitches, see this post on Moogly Blog.


Once you have your pointed end for the ties, you can stitch up a crocheted tie by making some kind of cord (see my guide to crochet cords) or you can leave it and attach a fabric, ribbon, or yarn tie later. Either way, once you are done with this area, slip stitch down the side of the last trtr toward the bottom of the belt. Next we’ll be working into the bottom of the chain foundation.


For the tattered skirt portion, we’ll need something to attach the fabric strips. You can definitely just put the strips through the stitches themselves if you want, but I like to crochet on a couple layers of loops for attaching the fabric. I’ll start by chaining 7, then skipping about three stitches, then attaching with a single crochet in the next st. I repeat this across the first (almost) half of the belt.


Around the pointed part, I want there to be more fabric. So I only skip about 1 stitch in between each loop to create this effect later.


Then, finish up the second half of the belt with regularly spaced loops. Once you reach the other side, create another three-trtr triangle. Here I decided to add a crochet tie, so I chain a length and then slip stitch back down.



I’m almost out of my ball of plain orange, so I’m going to consider this scrap busted, and with just enough to finish the belt base – mission accomplished!

Orange scrap, we hardly knew ye. Just kidding, we’ve known ye for about 5 years.

My (semi)-finished belt base here measures about 38-39 inches, unstretched, not including the string tie. As you can see, it curves a little naturally due to the decreases placed at the center.  It’ll follow the curve of the hips a little nicer that way, and the extra loops at the increase point will form a fuller skirt there once I place the strips of fabric – I am aiming for a bustle effect with this one.


But, I am also going to add a second layer of loops, just so I don’t overload the first layer and make it too bulky. With another scrap, I’ll start by attaching my yarn a ¼ of the way across – I only want this layer to be on the back half of the belt.


Here I am chaining 7 and slip stitching in each chain loop. When I get to the center, I add an extra loop there to maintain the point by slip stitching in the same loop. Then, 8 more chain 7 loops across the other part of the belt, stopping once I have about ¼ of the way left. Second loop layer added, and another little scrap busted!


Ta- DA! That’s it for the belt base. This is the piece that you will attach the pockets to later, and can continue to build with color and texture according to your whim.


The belt base is a great place to start experimenting with different stitch patterns – here are some examples from other belts I’ve done.


“Lavender” uses something like a granny square style stitch.
I used a more open mesh stitch on “Nightshade” and then wove ribbon yarn through.
Simple, straightforward double crochet works too!

If you have any questions about the tutorial so far or the techniques I’m using, please leave a comment! I love to talk shop. <3





15 thoughts on “PBT: Belt Base

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  1. Great!
    When you say double chain at the beginning, do you mean just literally double the chain and then crochet into it?
    Such cool stuff you make!

    1. Hi Paula! The Double Chain is a special kind of chain stitch – there’s a link in the text that goes to my bog post explaining that stitch! 🙂 It can be substituted with regular chain stitches, if you prefer not to bother with the special technique – i just find double chain stitches easier to crochet into in some situations.

  2. I think the things you create with crotchet are wonderful i realy can’t wait to give them a go keep up the good work and thank you 😀

  3. The double chain is my new favorite foundation stitch! I love the way it looks and lays! So glad I was looking for something fun but not too much to make for my very persnickety 15 year old brand following granddaughter to carry her cellphone in. I needed to know how to add attachments to a belt for the most part but glad I delved deeper into your post and the other tutorials you provided for the parts. I’ve been wanting to take my crotchet to a new level and you’ve opened my eyes to a different aspect of free form crochet.

  4. When you wrote, “I did a row of double crochet, then turned and did a row of (dc, ch 1, sk next st) repeats to add visual interest.”
    Double Crochet meaning the Double Chain or the basic Double Crochet Stitch?
    Also, (dc, ch 1, sk next st) is it Double Chain or Double Crochet Stitch?
    I’ve bought your Etsy pattern and am working on a belt but have yet to get the same width you had.
    Thank you,

    1. Hi Jessica! dc = double crochet 🙂 As in the regular chain stitch. I try to shorthand “double chain” as “DCh” 🙂 Hope all else is going well with the pattern!

      1. Thank you so much! Yes, I’m loving this belt making. Ren Faire is coming up and will be the first time in over a year my friends will be meeting up! We’re all vaxxed. May I ask what stitch you used on Nightshade in order to weave a ribbon through it?

      2. Oh that sounds so fun! I can’t wait to get together with my friends for a festival too once we’re all safe! 🙂 For Nightshade, I think I used an alternating dc, ch-1, skip one stitch, with two rows, working the dc and the ch-1 spaces so they were aligned with the row beneath (I think!) 🙂

  5. Ok, so, I measured my hips, and made my chain meet that measurement. Then I made a floral stitch from a book (trying to practice something I’ve never done before), and it was like 15″ longer than my original measurement. I ended up deciding to frog it, and remake it, but I was wondering if there are better ways to work with the belt part being much much longer than your hips.

    1. Wow, that’s a lot longer! I have had that happen sometimes and lately I’ve actually made all my belts bigger and used the following two techniques:
      The first is to make the belt base with some sort of openwork stitch, such as stitch one chain one skip next stitch repeats, and then thread a fabric tie through those openings when the belt is done. This acts as a drawstring and makes the belt able to be cinched up to fit the waist whatever size you need. The second is to create multiple points of fastening, such as extra buttons along the base, where the belt can be overlapped with itself on the hips for adjustability 🙂

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