Spiral Sweater Pattern

During the winter I often turn to comforting, simple stitch patterns that don’t require a ton of mental fortitude (something I frequently lack during the semester). When I decided I wanted to crochet a pattern with a simple spiral design, I quickly settled on the subtle, hypnotizing rings of a continuous round worked through only the back loop. So meditative! Much Om!


The rest of the design elements of this pattern seemed to fall into place, leaving just the math for me to figure out. Well, math, and how to get pictures of it in the middle of an alternately sloppy and freezing month. Luckily we had one or two days that weren’t too cold!


I hope you find this pattern as soothing to make as I did (and as fun to wear afterward). This PDF pattern is exclusively available in my Ravelry Store , Ko-Fi Shop, or Etsy shop – Read on for more info!



The Spiral Sweater is all about the simple, elegant details – a pretty picot trim at the cuffs, some fringe for drape and movement, and an optional set of sweet half-moon pockets compliment this round-and-round circular wrap cardigan.


The circular body of the sweater is capped by shawl collar and straight sleeves, with chain cords that thread through the stitches of the fabric for a figure-flattering wrap at the waist. Simple construction makes this project suitable for Easy level crocheters, but it also features a few fun techniques including the double chain and the linked double crochet, both offered as free tutorials on my blog!

Linked Double Crochet
Double Chain


The Spiral Sweater is written for four sizes – X-small (shown in Soft & Sleek “Brownie), Small (Not pictured), Medium (Soft & Sleek “Navy”), and Large (Rustic Romantic “Window Ivy”, below). And, as usual, lots of tutorial picture references and detailed, step by step instructions are included in the PDF!



6.00 mm hk

Yarn Bee Rustic Romantic (#4, 3.5 oz / 228 yds) – 5 (6, 7, 8) skeins
Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek (#4, 5 oz / 257 yds) – 4 (5, 6, -) skeins (Soft & Sleek not recommended for size LG)
3 stitch markers (at least 2 locking)

Tapestry needle & Scissors
6″ width cardboard or book for making fringe

Finished Measurements (Approx.):
XS: Cross Back 14”, Bust 34”, Sleeve Length 18”, Sleeve Circumference 11″
SM: Cross Back 15”, Bust 36”, Sleeve Length 19”, Sleeve Circumference 12″
MD: Cross Back 16.5”, Bust 38”, Sleeve Length 20”, Sleeve Circumference 13″
LG: Cross Back 17.5”, Bust 40”, Sleeve Length 21”, Sleeve Circumference 14″

Total Length (excluding fringe): 25” (29”, 34”, 38”)

Pattern Written in US terminology.

Congratulations, you have reached the end of the text portion of this post… how about some more pictures? 😀







26 thoughts on “Spiral Sweater Pattern

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  1. ~ ♡ Omgoodness, Regina I’m in love,love!
    You’re so beautiful, I so want this pattern! You did an Ahhmmzzzzinly Awesome Job! I love your blog & that you’re on Ravelry.Com! I’m always cold this will be perfect for meeeee! I cannot wait to I can get this, hopefully the hubby will have a job in a few weeks and I’m going to get this one for me! Thank you for your Beautiful Creations ♡♡♡♡♡

  2. Wow! As soon as I figure my two sweater WIP’s I will be buying the pattern. Absolutely gorgeous! Love that I’ve discovered your blog through the Hookin’ On Hump Day Link Party!

  3. Hi I decided not to make the freewheelin poncho with my yarn but make this instead. It’s looking great but I really think it needs a hood! Do you have any suggestions for how to add one possibly?

    Thanks in advance and great pattern

    1. I would love to make this with a hood too, great idea! I would make a regular hood and then seam it on to the center of the back collar. Pointed hoods are nice and easy, of course, making just a big rectangle and folding it over, but you could do any style. I would try to stop crocheting just a few rounds before the end, then attach the hood with a seam, then crochet the last few rounds over the hood as well, keeping the 1/1 stitch ratio on the top half of the sweater (but ending up with more stitches on that half due to the hood of course). Hope that helps!

      1. I understand how to make a rectangle good but I’m unsure what you mean by crocheting the last few rounds over the hood as well keeping the 1/1 stitch ratio?? I’ve not actually crocheted clothing before!

        Thanks for your help

      2. So, the last few rounds of the main body of the sweater would be crocheted over the exposed edge of the hood after seaming it to the main part, creating one stitch in each stitch. Of course, you can definitely just finish the sweater, make a hood, then seam it on – that is what I would recommend if you are new to garment making! 🙂

  4. This is a beautiful shawl, but i’m confused, when I read the pattern for novella shawl, it just says to do the 2nd part of the stitch, but in the photo tutorial it seems to only go thru back loop instead of both Vs. The video shows pushing through the Tunisian stitches. Also, written says chain 2, but then in video it seemed to be a chain 3 at the start. I want to make sure I am doing it correctly. Please help clarify if you can, use only back loop or use both loops? And do I chain 2 or 3 and then turn? And do you insert double crochet in same stitch as turning chain? Video seemed to say that but written says insert into 1st stitch and then ldc into same.

    1. Hi Brenda! I am happy to help and I will answer as best I can 🙂 The number of turning chains for each height of stitch can vary depending on the tension and the crocheters preference. The traditional number is 3, however I sometimes prefer to ch 2 if I feel it fits the height better (which it does, in my tension, when working LDC). LDC itself can be worked into either of the top loops or into both loops – you should follow the specified instructions in the written pattern you are working. Do the same with whether or not to work into the first stitch – follow the given instructions for the pattern you are working 🙂

      Sorry if that is confusing, I do tend to use a lot of resources and they are not always from the same pattern, but to illustrate the general concept despite some of the finer details not being the same, lol! There are many ways to modify and create crochet so certain techniques do not always have an exact right way to do them, but if you need more clarification please don’t hesitate to ask 🙂

      1. Thank you so much for your answer. I was not sure if your pattern saying put DC and ldc in next stitch really meant same hole as the chain because it does not count as DC. I frogged the novella shawl 3 balls in as i discovered I missed the center early on. I have started again and I am using your novella shawl pattern. I am learning crochet and liked the look of the shawl. One thing i decided was to mark each First/last stitch and middle stich to help keep it straight and the keep the right stitch counts. I would love to see if you added a button as your photos don’t show where it gets placed. Also looking for a way to make a removable button because the button I chose is not washable and is larger and decorative.

      2. Absolutely! I did add a button, just under the edge of the hood, it was a horn toggle with a chain loop placed on the other side but I’ve never done a removable button before 🙂 Unfortunately I don’t have pictures other than the ones in the post!

  5. Regina, I recently purchased your spiral sweater pattern. I really love working on it! I am making a size small and am about to start on Round 15. The instructions state: 1 ldc (See Special Stitches) in ea of the next 78 sts. 1 dc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st. *1 dc in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 dc in the next st. Rpt from * around. – 166 sts.

    Could you clarify which of the referenced stitches above are the regular double crochet and which are the *special DCH* , does the round include both, and if this terminology is applicable to all the rounds that follow?
    Thanks in advance!

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