There’s a lot of pretty cool stuff in my hometown of Bloomington, Indiana, but one of the most outstanding in my opinion is the annual Krampus Night put on by the awesome people at the Krampus Legend and Arts Workshop (K.L.A.W). A better explanation of Krampus Night and American versions of this traditional European event can be found in this Dangerous Minds article (in which it says that Bloomington’s parade is the best. I have to agree obviously).
Anyway, that’s how my enthusiasm for Krampus was born. Who wouldn’t love a ferocious rampaging Christmas demon? So this year, as I was contemplating how to refurbish an old crochet pattern of mine, I got the idea to turn it into a Krampus Hat. And since I don’t want the Krampus to think that I am ungenerous, I am sharing it for free here with you!
I am also making this whole pattern available in PDF form in my Etsy Shop , Ko-Fi Shop, and Ravelry Pattern Store.
That’s right.
As far as insane things that I’ve crocheted go, it may well be a personal best. Also I got to look bonkers in the photos. Bonus!
This twisty-horned, shaggy eared monstrosity could also be a ram, a yeti, a Wild Thing, or any number of raucous beasts. Hope you enjoy!
Krampus Hat Crochet Pattern
Materials:
4.50 mm hook, 3.75 mm hook, 5.00 mm hook
Color A: 710 yds #4 worsted weight acrylic (I used I Love This Yarn! – 2 skeins, in “Linen”)
Color B: 150 yds #4 worsted weight acrylic (I used I Love This Yarn! in “Toasted Almond”)
Color C: <100 yds #3 DK weight acrylic or wool blend (I used some spare Drops Lima I had laying around. You could easily sub any DK weight or a light #4 weight in here)
Polyester fiberfill
Scissors, Tapestry Needle
Locking stitch markers (highly recommended – other kinds of markers will work but I have found non-locking markers tend to get knocked off during the creation of this pattern)
Head form (useful but not absolutely necessary)
Gauge: 2″ in diameter after Rnd 7 (in pattern) for the main hat.
Techniques used: Magic Ring, Single crochet (sc), Crochet chain (ch), Slip stitch (sl st), Front loop only (FLO), Back loop only (BLO), Single crochet decrease (sc2tog), half-double crochet (hdc)
Notes:
The circular pattern alternates rounds worked in the front and back loops of the previous round. I highly recommend using a locking marker on the back loop of the first stitch of each sc round (odd numbered rounds) so you know for sure where to start and finish – with all of those loops it can get confusing and the markers always save the day.
To Begin, make magic ring with Color A and a 4.50 mm hook.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring, join round with a sl st in the front loop of the first stitch. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in the FLO of Rnd 1 (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 5 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 6 ch loops
Rnd 3: 2 sc into each of the back loops only (BLO) of the sc stitches from Rnd 1. Join with a sl st in the FLO. – 12 sts
The back of the piece after Rnd 6. See that non-locking marker? That fell off about twenty times.
Rnd 4: Working in the FLO of Rnd 3, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 11 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join – 12 ch loops
Rnd 5: In BLO of Rnd 3, (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in the next st. ) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 18 sts
Rnd 6: Working in the FLO of Rnd 5, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 17 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 18 ch loops
Rnd 7: In BLO of Rnd 5, (1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round – 24 sts
Rnd 8: Working in the FLO of Rnd 7, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 23 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 24 ch loops
Rnd 9: In BLO of Rnd 7, (1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 30 sts
Rnd 10: Working in FLO of Rnd 9, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 29 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 30 ch loops
Rnd 11: In BLO of Rnd 9, (1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 36 sts
Rnd 12: Working in FLO of Rnd 11, sc in the same stitch as sl st join. (Ch 6, sl st in the same stitch. *Sc in the next stitch.) Rpt 35 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 36 ch loops
Rnd 13: In BLO of Rnd 11, (1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 42 sts
Rnd 14: Working in FLO of Rnd 13, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 41 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 42 ch loops
Rnd 15: In BLO of Rnd 13, (1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 48 sts
Rnd 16: Working in FLO of Rnd 15, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 47 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 48 ch loops
Rnd 17: In BLO of Rnd 15, (1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 54 sts
Rnd 18: Working in FLO of Rnd 17, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 53 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 54 ch loops
Rnd 19: In BLO of Rnd 17, 1 sc in each sc around. Join with a sl st in the FL of first st in the rnd. – 54 sts
Rnd 20: Working in FLO of Rnd 19, (Ch 7, sl st in the same st. *Sl st in the next st.) Rpt 53 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 54 ch lps
Rnd 21: In BLO of Rnd 19, (1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 60 sts
Rnd 22: Working in FLO of Rnd 21, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 59 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 60 ch loops
Rnd 23: In BLO of Rnd 21, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 60 sts
Rnd 24: Working in FLO of Rnd 23, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 59 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 60 ch loops
Rnd 25: Working in BLO of Rnd 23, (1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FL of the first st of the rnd. – 66 sts
Rnd 26: Working in the FLO of Rnd 25, (Ch 7, sl st in the same st. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 65 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 66 ch loops
Rnd 27: In BL of previous rnd, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 66 sts
Rnd 28: Working in FLO of previous rnd, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 65 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 66 ch loops
Rnds 29-42: Rpt Rnds 27-28 7 more times.
Rnd 43: In BL of previous rnd, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 66 sts
Rnd 44: Working in FLO of previous rnd, (Ch 9, sl st in the same st. *Sl st in the next st.) Rpt 65 more times, ending alst rpt at *. Do not join.
Rnds 45 – 52: Rpt Rnds 43-44 4 more times. Leave yarn attached to begin working earflaps.
Earflaps (Make 2)
Get four locking stitch markers. Place one in the BL of the first stitch of the previous round. Place second marker 9 stitches from the first (counting in same direction as you would work the round). Including stitches with markers, this makes a 10-stitch section. Starting with the first stitch after the 2nd marker, count 19 stitches in the same direction you would work the round. Place the third marker in the back loop of the 19 stitch. Place 4th marker 9 stitches from the third.
This leaves you with two marked off sections of 10 stitches (where you will work the earflaps) with an 18-stitch gap on one side (the back of the hat) and a 28-stitch gap on the other side (the front of the hat). You can try on the hat now to see where those sections fall and adjust if necessary – as long as you have two sections of 10 stitches you can place them where you like.
Earflaps are worked in rows, turning after each row. Every row is worked in the back loop only.
Row 1: RS facing, join with a sc to the marked st at the beginning of one marked off 10-st section. 1 sc into the BLO of ea of next 9 sts. Ch 11, turn.
Row 2: Working in the BLO, sl st in the same st. (Sl st in the next st, ch 11, sl st in the same st) 9 more times. Ch 1, turn – 10 ch loops
Row 3: In the BLO, sc in ea of the next 10 sts. Ch 11, turn.
Row 4: Rpt Row 2.
Row 5: Rpt Row 3.
Row 6: Rpt Row 2.
Row 7: To begin this row, work a sc decrease over the BL of the first 2 stitches. Sc in ea of the next 6 sts. Work a sc decrease over the next 2 stitches. Ch 11, turn. – 8 sts.
Row 8: Sl st in the same st. (Sl st in the next st, ch 11, sl st in the same st) 7 times. Ch 1, turn. 8 ch loops.
Row 9: Sc in ea of the next 8 sts. Ch 11, turn. – 8 sts
Row 10: Rpt Row 8.
Row 11: To begin this row, work a sc decrease over the BL of the first 2 sts. Sc in ea of the next 4 sts. Work a sc decrease over the next 2 sts. Ch 11, turn. – 6 sts
Row 12: Sl st in the same st. (Sl st in the next st, ch 11, sl st in the same st) 5 times. Ch 1, turn. – 6 ch loops
Row 13: Work a sc decrease over the next 2 sts. Sc in ea of next 2 sts. 1 sc dec over the next 2 sts. Ch 11, turn.
Row 14: Sl st in the same st. (Sl st in the next st, ch 11, sl st in the same st) 3 times. Ch 1, turn. – 4 ch loops
Row 15: (Work a sc dec over the next 2 sts) twice. If this is your first earflap, cut yarn and tie off. If this is your second earflap, do not cut or tie off.
Brim:
The brim works two rows of sc in each stitch around the edge of the hat, including the earflaps.
Row 1: Work 1 sc in the side of ea row down the earflap toward the main part of the hat. Continue to work 1 sc in the back loops of the stitches and 1 sc in between ea loop on the sides of the earflaps all the way around the hat.
Row 2: Sc in ea sc.
Horns (Make 2)
Work in BLO unless otherwise specified. Work continuously in the round, using a st marker to track rounds. Stuff gradually with poly fiberfill as you go – be careful not to overstuff.
Using color B and 3.75 mm hook, make magic ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring. – 6 sts
Rnd 2: 1 hdc in ea of the next 3 sc, 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sc. – 6 sts
Rnd 3: Rpt Rnd 2.
Rnd 4: Rpt Rnd 2.
Rnd 5: (1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 9 sts
Rnd 6: 1 hdc in ea of the next 5 sts, 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. – 9 sts
Rnd 7: 1 hdc in ea of the next 5 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the next 4 sts. – 9 sts
Rnd 8: Rpt Rnd 7
Rnd 9: (1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 12 sts
Rnd 10: 1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 6 sts. – 12 sts
Rnd 11: Rpt Rnd 10
Rnd 12: 1 sc in ea st around. – 12 sts
Rnd 13: (1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 15 sts
Rnd 14: 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the next 6 sts. – 15 sts
Rnd 15: Rpt Rnd 14
Rnd 16: 1 sc in ea st around. – 15 sts
Rnd 17: (1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 18 sts
Rnd 18: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 12 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 6 sts. – 18 sts
Rnd 19: Rpt Rnd 18
Rnd 20: (1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 21 sts
Rnd 21: 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the next 8 sts. – 21 sts
Rnd 22: Rpt Rnd 21
Rnd 23: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 6 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 24 sts
Rnd 24: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 16 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 8 sts. – 24 sts
Rnd 25: Rpt Rnd 24
Rnd 26: (1 sc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 27 sts
Rnd 27: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 18 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 9 sts. – 27 sts
Rnd 28: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 8 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 30 sts
Rnd 29: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 20 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 10 sts. – 30 sts
Rnd 30: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 9 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 33 sts
Rnd 31: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 22 sts, 1 stl st in ea of the nxt 11 sts. – 33 sts
Rnd 32: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 10 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 36 sts
Rnd 33: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 24 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 12 sts. – 36 sts
Rnd 34: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 11 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 39 sts
Rnd 35: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 26 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 13 sts. – 39 sts
Rnd 36: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 12 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 42 sts
Rnd 37: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 28 sts, 1 sc in ea of the nxt 14 sts. – 42 sts
Rnd 38: Working in both of the top loops, 1 Sl st in each st around. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Embellishing the Horn
In a contrasting yarn and the 3.75 hk, attach yarn to the first FL from Rnd 1 of the tip of the horn. *Sl st in the FL of the next st. Rpt from * in a continuous spiral all the way down the horn to the end of Rnd 36. Cut yarn and tie off.
Ears (Make 2):
The ears are worked in continuous rounds and then flattened to form a sturdy, double layered shape.
With Color A and a 5.00 mm hook, make magic ring.
Rnd 1: 3 sc into the ring. Tighten. – 3 sts
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around – 6 stitches
Rnd 3: 1 sc in ea sc around – 6 stitches
Rnd 4: 2 sc in ea sc around – 12 stitches
Rnd 5 -6: 1 sc in ea sc around – 12 stitches
Rnd 7: (1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around – 18 stitches
Rnd 8: 1 sc in each sc around – 18 stitches
Rnd 9: (1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) – 24 stitches
Rnds 10 – 14: 1 sc in each sc around – 24 stitches
Rnd 15: (1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, sc2tog over the next 2 stitches) – 18 stitches
Rnd 16 -22: 1 sc in each sc around – 18 stitches.
Rnd 23: Sl stitch around. Fasten off, leaving a long tail attached for sewing.
Using a length of Color C and a tapestry needle, embellish the ear by embroidering on a spiral or other fun ear-like shapes.
Earflap braids:
Cut a bundle of 15 32”-long strands in Color A. Fold the bundle to form a loop at one end and draw it through the bottom of the earflap. Tuck loose ends through the loop and tighten. Separate into 3 bundles of 10 strands and braid, then tie off. Repeat for the other side.
Assembly
Gather all of your pieces and weave all ends except those left long to sew on the piece. Try on the hat and hold up the pieces to see how you’d like to position your horns and ears – the horns are not mirrored pieces so you won’t get them exactly symmetrical, but its fun to play around and see what you like. Mark out the area you will be attaching the pieces with safety pins or stitch markers if you like.
Then find something to put your hat on while you sew. Head forms are handy, or you can hunt around for something else that vaguely fits. You can even use your bent knee if you’re limber enough. I still haven’t replaced my battered old styrofoam head so today we’re using a medicine ball.
I used to sew the horns directly onto the hat, but I have found that since the chain loops are so dense, you can really just sew them onto the loops and it works just as well. Make sure before you close the seam that the bottom of the horns are properly stuffed – I usually cram in a glob of fiberfill just before closing it up for good measure.
I like the ears just beneath the horns – mine are floppy as they are sewn directly onto the loops, but you can get them sturdier by sewing onto the hat base instead.
Finally, for extra scruffiness, cut a big bundle of 1/2 yard strands of Color A. Loop them over in and fringe bundles of 4-5 through some of the loops on the lower part of the hat around the earflaps. Chop and style as you like – I used whatever bit of Color A I had left over and added small decorative braids. You could really go nuts here (since the entire hat is covered in loops) and make an extremely shaggy thing. I hope someone does, and shows me a picture 😉
And, there you have it – Krampus Hat! I hope you like, and of course if you have any questions I am here to help. Be good or the Krampus will get you!
Nooo not sunlight… oh wait, that’s vampires.
-MF
