There’s a lot of pretty cool stuff in my hometown of Bloomington, Indiana, but one of the most outstanding in my opinion is the annual Krampus Night put on by the awesome people at the Krampus Legend and Arts Workshop (K.L.A.W). A better explanation of Krampus Night and American versions of this traditional European event can be found in this Dangerous Minds article (in which it says that Bloomington’s parade is the best. I have to agree obviously).
Anyway, that’s how my enthusiasm for Krampus was born. Who wouldn’t love a ferocious rampaging Christmas demon? So this year, as I was contemplating how to refurbish an old crochet pattern of mine, I got the idea to turn it into a Krampus Hat. And since I don’t want the Krampus to think that I am ungenerous, I am sharing it for free here with you!
I am also making this whole pattern available in PDF form in my Etsy Shop , Ko-Fi Shop, and Ravelry Pattern Store.
That’s right.
As far as insane things that I’ve crocheted go, it may well be a personal best. Also I got to look bonkers in the photos. Bonus!
This twisty-horned, shaggy eared monstrosity could also be a ram, a yeti, a Wild Thing, or any number of raucous beasts. Hope you enjoy!
Krampus Hat Crochet Pattern
Materials:
4.50 mm hook, 3.75 mm hook, 5.00 mm hook
Color A: 710 yds #4 worsted weight acrylic (I used I Love This Yarn! – 2 skeins, in “Linen”)
Color B: 150 yds #4 worsted weight acrylic (I used I Love This Yarn! in “Toasted Almond”)
Color C: <100 yds #3 DK weight acrylic or wool blend (I used some spare Drops Lima I had laying around. You could easily sub any DK weight or a light #4 weight in here)
Polyester fiberfill
Scissors, Tapestry Needle
Locking stitch markers (highly recommended – other kinds of markers will work but I have found non-locking markers tend to get knocked off during the creation of this pattern)
Head form (useful but not absolutely necessary)
Gauge: 2″ in diameter after Rnd 7 (in pattern) for the main hat.
Techniques used: Magic Ring, Single crochet (sc), Crochet chain (ch), Slip stitch (sl st), Front loop only (FLO), Back loop only (BLO), Single crochet decrease (sc2tog), half-double crochet (hdc)
Notes:
The circular pattern alternates rounds worked in the front and back loops of the previous round. I highly recommend using a locking marker on the back loop of the first stitch of each sc round (odd numbered rounds) so you know for sure where to start and finish – with all of those loops it can get confusing and the markers always save the day.
To Begin, make magic ring with Color A and a 4.50 mm hook.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring, join round with a sl st in the front loop of the first stitch. Pull the ring closed tightly. – 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in the FLO of Rnd 1 (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 5 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 6 ch loops
Rnd 3: 2 sc into each of the back loops only (BLO) of the sc stitches from Rnd 1. Join with a sl st in the FLO. – 12 sts
The back of the piece after Rnd 6. See that non-locking marker? That fell off about twenty times.
Rnd 4: Working in the FLO of Rnd 3, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 11 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join – 12 ch loops
Rnd 5: In BLO of Rnd 3, (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in the next st. ) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 18 sts
Rnd 6: Working in the FLO of Rnd 5, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 17 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 18 ch loops
Rnd 7: In BLO of Rnd 5, (1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round – 24 sts
Rnd 8: Working in the FLO of Rnd 7, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 23 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 24 ch loops
Rnd 9: In BLO of Rnd 7, (1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 30 sts
Rnd 10: Working in FLO of Rnd 9, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 29 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 30 ch loops
Rnd 11: In BLO of Rnd 9, (1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 36 sts
Rnd 12: Working in FLO of Rnd 11, sc in the same stitch as sl st join. (Ch 6, sl st in the same stitch. *Sc in the next stitch.) Rpt 35 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 36 ch loops
Rnd 13: In BLO of Rnd 11, (1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 42 sts
Rnd 14: Working in FLO of Rnd 13, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 41 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 42 ch loops
Rnd 15: In BLO of Rnd 13, (1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 48 sts
Rnd 16: Working in FLO of Rnd 15, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 47 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 48 ch loops
Rnd 17: In BLO of Rnd 15, (1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 54 sts
Rnd 18: Working in FLO of Rnd 17, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 53 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 54 ch loops
Rnd 19: In BLO of Rnd 17, 1 sc in each sc around. Join with a sl st in the FL of first st in the rnd. – 54 sts
Rnd 20: Working in FLO of Rnd 19, (Ch 7, sl st in the same st. *Sl st in the next st.) Rpt 53 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 54 ch lps
Rnd 21: In BLO of Rnd 19, (1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 60 sts
Rnd 22: Working in FLO of Rnd 21, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 59 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 60 ch loops
Rnd 23: In BLO of Rnd 21, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 60 sts
Rnd 24: Working in FLO of Rnd 23, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 59 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 60 ch loops
Rnd 25: Working in BLO of Rnd 23, (1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st.) Rpt around. Join with a sl st in the FL of the first st of the rnd. – 66 sts
Rnd 26: Working in the FLO of Rnd 25, (Ch 7, sl st in the same st. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 65 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 66 ch loops
Rnd 27: In BL of previous rnd, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 66 sts
Rnd 28: Working in FLO of previous rnd, (Ch 7, sl st in the same stitch. *Sl st in the next stitch.) Rpt 65 more times, ending last rpt at *. Do not join. – 66 ch loops
Rnds 29-42: Rpt Rnds 27-28 7 more times.
Rnd 43: In BL of previous rnd, sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st in the FLO of first st in the round. – 66 sts
Rnd 44: Working in FLO of previous rnd, (Ch 9, sl st in the same st. *Sl st in the next st.) Rpt 65 more times, ending alst rpt at *. Do not join.
Rnds 45 – 52: Rpt Rnds 43-44 4 more times. Leave yarn attached to begin working earflaps.
Earflaps (Make 2)
Get four locking stitch markers. Place one in the BL of the first stitch of the previous round. Place second marker 9 stitches from the first (counting in same direction as you would work the round). Including stitches with markers, this makes a 10-stitch section. Starting with the first stitch after the 2nd marker, count 19 stitches in the same direction you would work the round. Place the third marker in the back loop of the 19 stitch. Place 4th marker 9 stitches from the third.
This leaves you with two marked off sections of 10 stitches (where you will work the earflaps) with an 18-stitch gap on one side (the back of the hat) and a 28-stitch gap on the other side (the front of the hat). You can try on the hat now to see where those sections fall and adjust if necessary – as long as you have two sections of 10 stitches you can place them where you like.
Earflaps are worked in rows, turning after each row. Every row is worked in the back loop only.
Row 1: RS facing, join with a sc to the marked st at the beginning of one marked off 10-st section. 1 sc into the BLO of ea of next 9 sts. Ch 11, turn.
Row 2: Working in the BLO, sl st in the same st. (Sl st in the next st, ch 11, sl st in the same st) 9 more times. Ch 1, turn – 10 ch loops
Row 3: In the BLO, sc in ea of the next 10 sts. Ch 11, turn.
Row 4: Rpt Row 2.
Row 5: Rpt Row 3.
Row 6: Rpt Row 2.
Row 7: To begin this row, work a sc decrease over the BL of the first 2 stitches. Sc in ea of the next 6 sts. Work a sc decrease over the next 2 stitches. Ch 11, turn. – 8 sts.
Row 8: Sl st in the same st. (Sl st in the next st, ch 11, sl st in the same st) 7 times. Ch 1, turn. 8 ch loops.
Row 9: Sc in ea of the next 8 sts. Ch 11, turn. – 8 sts
Row 10: Rpt Row 8.
Row 11: To begin this row, work a sc decrease over the BL of the first 2 sts. Sc in ea of the next 4 sts. Work a sc decrease over the next 2 sts. Ch 11, turn. – 6 sts
Row 12: Sl st in the same st. (Sl st in the next st, ch 11, sl st in the same st) 5 times. Ch 1, turn. – 6 ch loops
Row 13: Work a sc decrease over the next 2 sts. Sc in ea of next 2 sts. 1 sc dec over the next 2 sts. Ch 11, turn.
Row 14: Sl st in the same st. (Sl st in the next st, ch 11, sl st in the same st) 3 times. Ch 1, turn. – 4 ch loops
Row 15: (Work a sc dec over the next 2 sts) twice. If this is your first earflap, cut yarn and tie off. If this is your second earflap, do not cut or tie off.
Brim:
The brim works two rows of sc in each stitch around the edge of the hat, including the earflaps.
Row 1: Work 1 sc in the side of ea row down the earflap toward the main part of the hat. Continue to work 1 sc in the back loops of the stitches and 1 sc in between ea loop on the sides of the earflaps all the way around the hat.
Row 2: Sc in ea sc.
Horns (Make 2)
Work in BLO unless otherwise specified. Work continuously in the round, using a st marker to track rounds. Stuff gradually with poly fiberfill as you go – be careful not to overstuff.
Using color B and 3.75 mm hook, make magic ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring. – 6 sts
Rnd 2: 1 hdc in ea of the next 3 sc, 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sc. – 6 sts
Rnd 3: Rpt Rnd 2.
Rnd 4: Rpt Rnd 2.
Rnd 5: (1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 9 sts
Rnd 6: 1 hdc in ea of the next 5 sts, 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. – 9 sts
Rnd 7: 1 hdc in ea of the next 5 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the next 4 sts. – 9 sts
Rnd 8: Rpt Rnd 7
Rnd 9: (1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 12 sts
Rnd 10: 1 hdc in ea of the next 6 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 6 sts. – 12 sts
Rnd 11: Rpt Rnd 10
Rnd 12: 1 sc in ea st around. – 12 sts
Rnd 13: (1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 15 sts
Rnd 14: 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the next 6 sts. – 15 sts
Rnd 15: Rpt Rnd 14
Rnd 16: 1 sc in ea st around. – 15 sts
Rnd 17: (1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 18 sts
Rnd 18: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 12 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 6 sts. – 18 sts
Rnd 19: Rpt Rnd 18
Rnd 20: (1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 21 sts
Rnd 21: 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the next 8 sts. – 21 sts
Rnd 22: Rpt Rnd 21
Rnd 23: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 6 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 24 sts
Rnd 24: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 16 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 8 sts. – 24 sts
Rnd 25: Rpt Rnd 24
Rnd 26: (1 sc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 3 times. – 27 sts
Rnd 27: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 18 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 9 sts. – 27 sts
Rnd 28: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 8 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 30 sts
Rnd 29: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 20 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 10 sts. – 30 sts
Rnd 30: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 9 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 33 sts
Rnd 31: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 22 sts, 1 stl st in ea of the nxt 11 sts. – 33 sts
Rnd 32: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 10 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 36 sts
Rnd 33: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 24 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 12 sts. – 36 sts
Rnd 34: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 11 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 39 sts
Rnd 35: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 26 sts, 1 sl st in ea of the nxt 13 sts. – 39 sts
Rnd 36: (1 sc in ea of the nxt 12 sts, 2 sc in the nxt st) 3 times. – 42 sts
Rnd 37: 1 hdc in ea of the nxt 28 sts, 1 sc in ea of the nxt 14 sts. – 42 sts
Rnd 38: Working in both of the top loops, 1 Sl st in each st around. Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Embellishing the Horn
In a contrasting yarn and the 3.75 hk, attach yarn to the first FL from Rnd 1 of the tip of the horn. *Sl st in the FL of the next st. Rpt from * in a continuous spiral all the way down the horn to the end of Rnd 36. Cut yarn and tie off.
Ears (Make 2):
The ears are worked in continuous rounds and then flattened to form a sturdy, double layered shape.
With Color A and a 5.00 mm hook, make magic ring.
Rnd 1: 3 sc into the ring. Tighten. – 3 sts
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around – 6 stitches
Rnd 3: 1 sc in ea sc around – 6 stitches
Rnd 4: 2 sc in ea sc around – 12 stitches
Rnd 5 -6: 1 sc in ea sc around – 12 stitches
Rnd 7: (1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around – 18 stitches
Rnd 8: 1 sc in each sc around – 18 stitches
Rnd 9: (1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) – 24 stitches
Rnds 10 – 14: 1 sc in each sc around – 24 stitches
Rnd 15: (1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, sc2tog over the next 2 stitches) – 18 stitches
Rnd 16 -22: 1 sc in each sc around – 18 stitches.
Rnd 23: Sl stitch around. Fasten off, leaving a long tail attached for sewing.
Using a length of Color C and a tapestry needle, embellish the ear by embroidering on a spiral or other fun ear-like shapes.
Earflap braids:
Cut a bundle of 15 32”-long strands in Color A. Fold the bundle to form a loop at one end and draw it through the bottom of the earflap. Tuck loose ends through the loop and tighten. Separate into 3 bundles of 10 strands and braid, then tie off. Repeat for the other side.
Assembly
Gather all of your pieces and weave all ends except those left long to sew on the piece. Try on the hat and hold up the pieces to see how you’d like to position your horns and ears – the horns are not mirrored pieces so you won’t get them exactly symmetrical, but its fun to play around and see what you like. Mark out the area you will be attaching the pieces with safety pins or stitch markers if you like.
Then find something to put your hat on while you sew. Head forms are handy, or you can hunt around for something else that vaguely fits. You can even use your bent knee if you’re limber enough. I still haven’t replaced my battered old styrofoam head so today we’re using a medicine ball.
I used to sew the horns directly onto the hat, but I have found that since the chain loops are so dense, you can really just sew them onto the loops and it works just as well. Make sure before you close the seam that the bottom of the horns are properly stuffed – I usually cram in a glob of fiberfill just before closing it up for good measure.
I like the ears just beneath the horns – mine are floppy as they are sewn directly onto the loops, but you can get them sturdier by sewing onto the hat base instead.
Finally, for extra scruffiness, cut a big bundle of 1/2 yard strands of Color A. Loop them over in and fringe bundles of 4-5 through some of the loops on the lower part of the hat around the earflaps. Chop and style as you like – I used whatever bit of Color A I had left over and added small decorative braids. You could really go nuts here (since the entire hat is covered in loops) and make an extremely shaggy thing. I hope someone does, and shows me a picture 😉
And, there you have it – Krampus Hat! I hope you like, and of course if you have any questions I am here to help. Be good or the Krampus will get you!
Nooo not sunlight… oh wait, that’s vampires.
-MF
Omg, I love this! It looks so amazing!
Thank you! <3
Hi! First of all, I love this pattern!
I have made one for my partner and one for myself 🙂 but I wonder if I’m allowed to sell the hat if I make another one? Of course I will refer to you and your pattern as creator! 🙂
Hi Andrea! Yes please feel free to sell items made from my patterns as long as you credit me as the pattern creator! I hope you make lots of money 🙂 🙂 Good luck!
is there a knit version? It looks awesome but I can’t crochet..:(
I wish there were! I can knit but not well enough to make something like this guy 😉
These hats are AMAZING just so ya know. Andrea loves to wear hers! Also I don’t recall ever seeing that video before. Very cool! We love Bloomington.
Hey thanks Jason! 🙂 🙂 🙂 Andrea and I are planning on both wearing our hats this year at Krampus – see you there!!
Out of my experience level. How much would a pre-made one cost?
Hi Terri! The price for these hats are $95, with a custom order turnaround time that will depend on my school schedule and the amount of other custom orders I have at the time. If you are interested you can message me on my Facebook Business page at http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber or on Etsy at http://www.etsy.com/shop/MoraleFiber
Thank you! 🙂
Hi Terri, I also have a friend who is willing to take commissions on these hats (I know her personally and she is very good) – you can check out her page and ask what her prices / turnaround times are. You can probably get one from her much sooner than my turnaround time 🙂 🙂 yOu can check out her facebook page at
https://www.facebook.com/Dancing-Butterfly-Unlimited-377836165973287/
Reblogged this on Adventures and Musings of an Arch Druidess.
This hat is really fun and very cool 🙂 But as well as that your top is fantastic – did you make that too???
Thanks and I’m glad you asked! The sweater dress/tunic I am wearing was a thrifted sweater that my friend found for me. I modified it by adding duplicate stitching (the colorful parts in the fair isle portion), expanding the hood, and of course adding that crazy fringed skirt thing 🙂 I’ve had it for years so I was so glad when I got to finally wear it for a photo 😀
I don’t think you could have got a better match of hat and jumper 🙂
Now to hunt out suitable yarn for woolly horns…
Thanks! I had my doubts about that sweater but it did turn out matching pretty well 🙂 <3
You Are Brilliant!
You are too kind! 😀 😀 😀 Thank you!
I Looooooove this hat!! Do you have a YouTube video for this project?
Thank you! 🙂 I did shoot some sample videos that show how to work the rounds of the main hat and the earflaps, but I haven’t had time to edit them and put them up yet. Hopefully I can get around to that soon but it may not be until the end of the semester. For sure I will let everyone know via my Facebook Page and the blog when that goes up!
SO AWESOME!! This is a beautiful design!! We have a local Krampusnacht in VA as well. I may have to try this,I started crochet a few months ago but have become 1000% obsessed. Keep up the great work 🙂 Very inspiring.
Thank you! Welcome to the world of crochet, where you will inevitably find yourself buying too much yarn and having too many projects because it is, in fact, extremely addictive 😉 😉
Fabulous!!!!!! and generous. Love it.
Thank you! 🙂 🙂
The horns are absolutely wonderful <3 You mention that you did not mirror the pattern for the second horn. Would simply reversing the hdcs and scs in each of the rounds produce an opposite spiral? I'm curious to try!
Thank you Carla! I have tried reversing the hdc’s and slips on the rounds in the horn, but the effect looked the same when I did it – that is, it didn’t look mirrored or reversed. I am wondering if using a round join (instead of continuous) and offsetting by half of the round would work but I have yet to try that. If I figure it out I will for sure let everyone know!
I thought that might be the case – Offset might work, though it would complicate the flow of the loop ridge to do closed rounds. Thanks for the feedback! My obsession for symmetry might just have to take a back (ba-a-a-ack?) seat in favor of this awesomeness.
Good point, and excellent sheep pun 😉
Further… maybe left-handed technique would work? It seems like the direction of stitch would determine the direction of spiral, but I’m not familiar with working the opposite direction in rounds, and I am by no means ambidextrous.
Left-handed was my thought as well. I may just have to finally teach my left hand to crochet. I’ve been threatening to do this for years and even practiced a few times but it’s just insanely hard! haha
Well, this pattern would certainly be good motivation to me to learn 😀
I’m curious about this too.
Crocheting the horn one clockwise and one counter-clockwise will give you symmetrical horns. It sounds difficult, but it wasn’t – or at least, I didn’t find it so.
Yay, I’ll have to try that sometime! 😀
This is fabulous! I may just *have* to make one.. Comic Con costume start perhaps? 🙂
Thank you! I bet this would be SUPER fun for a con! 🙂
Yep.. have decided I’m going to go as a Satyr. Will buy the pattern on Ravelry – although I know it’s free here, I’d like to say thanks 🙂
Yay! Satyr hat sounds so awesome! And, thank you 🙂 🙂
I love it!! You did a fantastic job!
I’m going to share this on my page!
http://www.blackstone-designs.com
Oh my gosh, I meant to put my Facebook page link! Sorry about that!!
I’ll be sharing it here: Facebook.com/sblackstonedesigns
Awesome, thanks! I will definitely check out your page 🙂 🙂
Pingback: Krampus season calls for this amazing horned head covering – AEPC
Oh my Goddess!!! Such a generous gift you have shared…no birch twigs for you 😀 XXX
That’s right, lol! They must have known because they didn’t come after me this year XD
Pingback: Woodland Blanket Part 3 | Knot Magick
Pingback: Krampus Hat Tada | Sparkle & Doom Designs
If you do one of the horns in FLO instead of BLO and then flip it inside out it makes them symmetrical. XD Just an idea.
Thanks!! 😀 😀
I just finished my first attempt at your hat, and it was such a great pattern! I posted a pic of how my hat came out over on Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/projects/JoitheArtist/krampus-hat
Wow, you did an awesome job! Thanks so much for sharing, do you mind if I share your picture of it on my FB page?
Omg, i would love that! Thank you!
Gah, accidentally left a reply from a different profile. Sorry! Yes, I’d be thrilled if you wanted to share it!
Hi i love this hat and I am making one for myself with way different and i am so excited!! Is there any other way to get in contact with you to share pics when i am done the hat in complete?? Thank you for sharing this amazing hat and pattern!!
Hi Brittany! Glad you are enjoying the pattern – I’d love to see pictures when you’re done! The best way to send pictures is through my Facebook business page here:
http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber
or you can send them to my e-mail address, moralefiber(at)yahoo.com ! Thanks and I hope you love it 🙂
This is brilliant!!! Can’t wait to make one! Or ten…
Thank you so much! They are kind of addictive… 😉
Pingback: Vintage Derby Pattern | Morale Fiber
Pingback: Krampus Hat | Fibre Ninja
Hey, just had to ask, if I translated this to knitting could I post it up somewhere if I sited you to the original pattern?
That’s a really good question, and the straightforward answer is that I’m not sure. I do get asked this about my crochet patterns occasionally, and it’s a difficult call – the best answer that I can give at this time is that I would need to see the results of your knitting translation and your proposed post before I give any permissions to share. I would definitely be willing to give permission in the right circumstances, since it would mean a lot more people could make this pattern (yay!) but it’s just a matter of keeping my brand protected. Thanks for asking and let me know if you get a translation written up, I’d be happy to have a look 🙂
Thanks for the free Pattern. Finished it today
You are so welcome! 🙂 🙂
Pingback: Bazaar Life | Morale Fiber
What is the proper way to do the second horn so it mirrors the first. I have been trying to figure it out and it is frustrating. great pattern!
Hi Willard,
The only way I know to make the second horn mirrored is to work it with your opposite hand. It works, but it’s slow going. I just make them the same when I make this hat, then arrange the horns so that they look different.
Pingback: Pattern Gallery: The Krampus Collection | Morale Fiber
I just wanted to say I loved your hat and the pattern is so simple to follow. It inspired me to put my own spin on it and I wanted to share because I absolutely love it.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B6ENfFxB_Q-/?igshid=14dj0w5xr3ioc
That is sooooo awesome! <3 <3 Thank you for sharing – I absolutely love it!
It took a few tries to get the horns right but this is going to be the hit of the gathering at Christmas! Thank you for the creation and sharing! I wish I knew how to add a pic. I can’t post it on FB, as the recipient will see it.
That is awesome! I’d love to see but of course I wouldn’t want to ruin the surprise 🙂 🙂 You can always send it via message to my FB business page. I’m so glad you liked the design (and yes those horns are tricky!)
Working this up now! Soooooo many loops 🙃
OMG, I know! Lol. Hang in there!
Pingback: Forest Guide Hat | Morale Fiber
I found your Krampus Hat as I was doing some online research on Krampus. What a great hat. I am so enchanted with it that I have put my 17th C, stays on the back burner to make this. It will take me a while since I have a bit of carpal tunnel. So far it is coming along great and I am at the point I am no longer increasing. I am tempted to stop work on the hat and do at least one horn. I have been having great fun with this.
Hi and thanks so much for the feedback! I am glad you’re enjoying it – yes it’s a bit crampy on the hands though! Be sure to take lots of breaks and stretch (I’m sure with CT you already know that) <3 I think skipping to do the horns sounds fun, and it's a nice break from all those chains 😉
Pingback: Oak Sprite Hat | Morale Fiber
I’m a little stuck on the ear flaps, I finished the 2nd row and now I’m on the 3rd row but there’s something that’s confusing me, how do I work in to the back loop for both the chain stitches from round 2 as well as the sc’s from the 3rd round?
I’m so sorry! I just realized what I’m doing wrong, I mainly do amigurumi so I haven’t worked very much with chains and turning, i feel a little stupid for not realizing and I apologize for the stupid question.
Thank you so much for making this amazing pattern!!
Oh it’s not stupid! I am glad you’ve got it now though, if you have any other questions please don’t hesitate to ask 🙂
I just finished the hat part and I realized it’s too small for my head (I’ve got kind of a big head) and I’m wondering if there’s a way I can make it bigger? Like maybe doubling the increases or something like that?
Hi there! To make the hat bigger by altering the number of increases, you’ll need to follow the established mathematical pattern of increases so far, so for example if there are six increases per row, you’ll need to continue doing 6 increases per row until the circumference is wide enough for your head 🙂
For anyone who wants to make the horns mirrored, crocheting them left handed will definitely do it. I think you may be able to do it right handed if you mirror the stitches (build the stitch how you would left handed but with your right hand), but I haven’t tested this out yet, maybe if I make another one.
Pingback: October Reflecting | Morale Fiber
I’ve made a couple of these, the recipients LOVE them
Oh wonderful! Thank you so much for the feedback 🙂
Pingback: Forest Guide Hat – Morale Fiber
Can you tell me what the measurement of just the horns are? I can’t find that on here.
Hi Beth! Unfortunately I sold my last hat I made from this year’s ago so I can’t measure the actual horns, if the stitches are fairly even you may be able to make a guess from the gauge references? Sorry, I know that’s a lot shot but I don’t have the measurements in the notes.
Pingback: This was a fun hat! Krampus Hat – Catch Me Hooking