Finally! I have been working on rewriting, restyling, tweaking, and expanding this design for ages, and I am so excited it’s time to premier the new version for free here on the blog! (or for purchase in PDF – read on for more info).
You can get this pattern in downloadable, printable format from my Ravelry Pattern Store , my Etsy shop, or my Ko-Fi Shop!
UPDATE! A bonus PDF with instructions on how to create a hood on this garment is also now included for free! The tutorial is also available on my blog here: Lotus Hooded Duster.
UPDATE AGAIN: There is now a video tutorial underway for this design, Rounds 1-8 of which just went live! Find the video tutorial here and be sure to like and subscribe so you don’t miss the rest! I’ve created a FAQ page for this pattern as well, which can be found on my blog here.
The old version is still available on the blog for those that were in the middle of working one and want to continue with the same version. The NEW version is right here!
Some of the tweaks I have made to the design include reworking the neckline to make the collar more manageable (read- less ruffled), adding detailed instructions as to how to work the half rounds, rewriting the sleeve tutorial to be more precise, adding stitch counts for all the rounds on the main body, writing instructions on attaching ties, and generally cleaning up the writing style. OH, and I almost forgot – in response to many requests, there is now A LARGE SIZE! YAY! Check out the FREE pattern below!
Lotus Mandala Duster
Reading the pattern: Pattern is written for Small with the changes for Large listed afterward – when there are no changes, directions apply to all sizes. Rows marked “Extra” with a decimal number are for Larges only (Example: “Extra Round 13.1”)
Joining the Rounds: This pattern frequently uses hdc and dc to join the rounds in the openwork portions. If you are having trouble with the round-end joins, please see my Chain & Stitch Join Tutorial at
Color Changes: This pattern leaves you free to plan your own color changes. To change colors, cut old color and tie off, then join new color in the last stitch of the round (for solid rounds) or last chain space of the round (for openwork/lace rounds).
Yarns Used: The Small size Duster (pictured above on the left) is made with yarns recycled from sweaters. You can find a tutorial for how to reclaim yarn on my blog here.
This entire pattern is demonstrated in my free video tutorial series on my YouTube channel here.
The Large duster (pictured on the right) is made with the yarn listed in the Materials section.
***Please note that the all-white example piece pictured in the pattern is the ONLY duster I’ve ever made with totally commercial yarn. All other dusters have been made with a mixture of scrap, hand-dyed, hand-spun, and recycled yarn from thrifted sweaters (as mentioned in previous paragraph) and I therefore can’t give you recommendations on how to recreate any of the examples using commercial yarn except for the one already listed in the pattern! Thanks for understanding 🙂
5.5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
Premier Cotton Fair (#2, 3.5 oz, 317 yds) – 6 skeins
Scissors & Tapestry Needle
Gauge: 3″ measured across the diameter after Rnd 3.
SMALL: 22.5″ radius (measured from center of motif to bottom edge)
50″ diameter (measured from collar to bottom edge)
Up to 36” bust
LARGE: 26.5” radius
Up to 42” bust
Dc with last loop on the hook: YO once, insert hk into next st/sp, draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 lps on the hook. 2 lps remain on the hook (1 original and 1 left unworked from the dc stitch).
4-DC Cluster – Work 4 dc stitches, keeping the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 5 loops on the hook.
3-dc cluster – Work 3 dc stitches leaving the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 4 loops on the hook.
Shell – 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc
Rnd 1: 8 sc into the ring, tighten – figs 1-2. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round. – 8 sc
Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1 – fig 3. (Dc in the next sc, ch 1) 7 times – fig 4. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 – fig 5. – 8 dc + 8 spaces
Rnd 3: Sl st into the next ch-1 space, ch 2 – counts as first dc with last loop on the hook – fig 6. Dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook – fig 7. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – fig 8. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 6 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp – fig 9, ch 1. Hdc in the top of the first cluster to join – figs 10-. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin your next round. – 8 clusters + 8 spaces
Rnd 4: Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on hk, – fig 13, dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook – fig 14. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 2 – fig 15. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times – figs 16-17. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-3 space – fig 18, work 1 hdc in the top of the first cluster to join – fig 19. 16 clusters + 16 spaces
Round 5: Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on the hk – fig 20. Dc into the same space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps. Ch 3 – fig 21. (Work 1 4-dc cluster into the next ch-2 space, ch 3) 14 times – fig 22. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster to join – fig 23. – 16 clusters + 16 spaces
Rnd 6: Ch 3 – counts as first dc – fig 24, 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3 – fig 25. (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 15 times – fig 26. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 27. – 16 sets of 3 dc + 16 spaces
Rnd 7: Sl st in the top of the next dc – fig 28. (Sk next dc. In the next ch-3 space work 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc – shell made – fig 29. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc – fig 30) 16 times. Join with a sl st in first sl st – fig 31.– 16 shells
Rnd 8: Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch 3, sc in the top of next tr stitch in the middle of the shell – fig 32, ch 3. (Dc in the next sl st between shells – fig 33, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 34. – 32 spaces
Rnd 9: Ch 3 – fig 35. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next sc and draw up a lp, (YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk) twice – one treble stitch leaving last lp on the hk made – fig 36. Treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk – 3 lps remain on the hk – fig 37. YO, draw through all 3 lps, ch 7 – figs 38-39. (In the last st worked in the previous tr3tog, work 1 treble crochet leaving last lp on hk – fig 40. Work 1 treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk – 4 lps on the hk – fig 41. YO, draw through all four lps on hk – tr3tog made, ch 7.) 15 times – fig 43. Join with a sl st in top of first tr3tog. – 16 tr3tog + 16 spaces
Rnd 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1 – fig 44. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1 – fig 45. Work 1dc in the top of the next tr3tog st, ch 1 – fig 46) 15 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch-4 – fig 47 – 48 clusters + 16 dc
Rnd 11: (Ch 3 – fig 48. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2 – fig 49. Skip next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space, ch 3 – fig 50. Sk next cluster and space, sl st in next dc – fig 51.) 15 times. Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Sk next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space – fig 52. Sk next cluster and space, dc in same st as the sl st join of the previous round – figs 53-55. – 32 clusters
Rnd 12: Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk – fig 56. Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster – fig 57. YO and draw through both lps on the hook – first tr2tog made – fig 58. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4 – fig 59. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the top of the next cluster. Sk next 2 chain-3 spaces, work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and pull through all 3 lps – figs 60-61. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the first tr2tog – figs 62-63. – 16 clusters + 16 tr2tog + 32 chain spaces
Rnd 13: Sl st in the next ch-4 space, ch 3 – fig 64 -counts as first dc. Work 4 dc in the same space. (1 dc in top of the next cluster – fig 65, 5 dc in next ch-4 space – fig 66, 1 dc in top of the next tr2tog, 5 dc in next ch-4 space – fig 67) 15 times. Work 1 dc in top of next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, 1 dc in top of tr2tog. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 68. – 192 dc sts
Extra Rnd 13.1: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 22 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 23 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times – fig 69. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 200 dc sts
Extra Rnd 13.2: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 23 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 24 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 70 – 208 dc sts
Rnd 14: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc – fig 71, ch 1, sk next dc) 95, 103 times. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 – fig 72. – 96 dc + 96 ch-1 spaces, 104 dc + 104 ch-1 spaces.
Rnd 15: (Sk next ch-1 space. Work 1 hdc in the next dc. In the same st work 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc – scallop made – fig 73. Skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc – fig 74) 48, 52 times. Join with a sl st in the same st as join from the previous rnd – fig 75. – 48 scallops, 52 scallops
When working with multiple colors, I always change colors after Rnd 15 – otherwise, the pretty scallops become hard to see after the next rnd.
Rnd 16: Ch 3 –counts as first dc. Sk next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next st (1 hdc in the next st – fig 76, sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st – fig 77) 47, 51 times. Hdc in next stitch, sk next st, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 78. – 192, 208 sts
Rnd 17: Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. (Sk next st, dc in next stitch – fig 79, ch 2) 94, 102 times – fig 80. Sk next st,dc in the next stitch. Hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join – figs 81-82. – 96, 104 ch spaces
Extra Rnd 17.1 – Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2 – fig 83. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 2) 102 times – figs 84-85. Dc in the next space, hdc in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-5 to join. – 104 ch spaces
Rnd 18: Sc in the space formed by the hdc join of the previous rnd- fig 86. Ch 3. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 3) 94, 102 times – fig 87. Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 96, 104 ch spaces
Rnds 19-20. Rpt rnd 18 – figs 88-89
Extra Round 20.1: Rpt Rnd 18 once more – figs 90-91
Sleeve Yoke round:
Rnd 21: Ch 3. (1 dc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times – fig 92. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces – fig 93, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space – fig 94) 10,14 times. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 63, 65 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
At the end of the round you should have 84, 90 ch-1 spaces and 2 long chain loops.
Note: You can add or subtract length from the sleeve yoke chain by adding or subtracting multiples of 3 chain stitches. For every 3 chains added or lost, be sure to skip or not skip 1 chain space on the row below – this makes the ratio 3 ch sts = 1 V-stitch space.
You can also adjust the fit of the garment by moving the armholes closer together (smaller fit, fewer v-stitches in between armhole chains) or wider apart (larger fit, more v-stitches in between armhole chains).
Rnd 22: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, 1 dc in the next dc – fig 95. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts – fig 96. 1 dc in the next dc (1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9, 13 times**(See notes below) – fig 97. 1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 63, 65 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 460, 488 sts
** Moving the armholes further apart or closer together in the last round to adjust the garment to your measurements will change the number of repeats here. V-stitches that occur in between the two shoulder yokes at this point should have 1 dc per space, not 3 as with the rest of the round, so just place 1 dc in all V-sts here.
Rnd 23: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (Sk next three sts, 1 dc in the next st. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st) 114, 121 times – fig 98. Sk next three sts, dc in the next st, ch 1. Hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 to join. – 115, 122 V-stitches
Rnd 24: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (1 dc in the next ch sp, ch 3, dc in the same space) 114, 121 times – fig 99. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 115, 122 V-stitches
Rnd 25: Sc in space formed by the hdc join of the previous round, ch 4. (Sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round – fig 100. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Rnd 26: Sc in the space formed by the dc join of the previous rnd, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 4) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next ch sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Rnd 27: Sc in the same sp, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 5) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next space, ch 2, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Rnds 28-30. Rpt rnd 27.
Extra Rnd 30.1-30.2: Rpt rnd 27 two more times
Rnd 31: Sc in the same sp, ch 6. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 113, 120times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Extra Rnd 31.1: Rpt Rnd 31 – fig 101
Rnd 32: Sc in the same sp, 6 dc in next sc – one fan made – fig 102. (1 sc in next ch-6 sp – fig 103, 6 dc in next sc) 114, 121 times, join with a sl st in first sc of the round. – 115, 122 fans
Rnd 33: Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st (the third dc of the fan) – fig 104, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2 – fig 105. (sk 2 sts, dc in next sc, ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rd dc of next fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2) 113,120 times. Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next sc, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rd dc of next fan. Ch 1, sc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. – 345, 366 chain spaces
Rnd 34: Ch 4 – counts as first hdc + ch 2. (Hdc in the next ch-2 space, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2) 114, 121 times. Hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, hdc in the 2nd ch of beg ch-2 to join. – 345, 366 ch spaces made
Working the following rounds on the top half ( the half with the armholes) only, beginning exactly where the last round left off:
Rnd 35: Ch 3. (Dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 1, dc in the same sp – fig 106) 171, 191 times. Ch 3, Sl st in the next ch-2 space – fig 107. Ch 3, turn. – 171, 191 dc V-stitches
Rnd 36: Sk first ch-3 space. Work 1 dc, leaving last lp on the hook in the next ch-1 space. Work 2 more dc with the last lp on the hook in the same space – fig 108. YO and draw through all 4 lps on the hook – 1 3-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2 – fig 109) 169, 189 times. 3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 space, ch 3. Sk next ch space, sl st in the next hdc – fig 110. Ch 3, turn. – 171, 191 dc clusters
The next round returns to working over the entire circular edge of the garment.
Rnd 37: 3 dc in the first ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 171, 191 times – fig 111. 3 dc in the next ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 172, 173 times. 3 dc in the next chain space. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 112. – 1036, 1095 dc
Cut yarn and tie off.
Step 1. Attach yarn on the inside of the armhole, in the side of the last dc before the armhole on Rnd 21 (in fig. 113, this is the final dc on the v-stitch on the right side of the hole). Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1, 2 dc more in the side of the dc – fig 114. 2, 3 dc in each of the 8, 9 chain spaces – including the spaces that the v-stitches from Rnd 21 are worked into – fig 116. 2, 3 dc into the side of the other Rnd 21 dc on the opposite end of the armhole. 1 dc into the base of all 30, 33 ch sts – fig 117. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. – 50, 66 dc
Step 2. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join – fig 118. – 25, 33 ch-1 spaces
Step 3. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sp, ch 1) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. – 25, 33 ch-1 spaces
After a couple rows of this, size down to a smaller hook if desired. I sized down to 4.5 to make the sleeve snug on my upper arm.
Rpt Step 3 until your total reaches 23 rows, or until the length reaches just below your elbow – fig 119.
Locate the ch space that is centered at the back of the elbow and mark it. (14th space from the join for me, 17th on the large) This will now be the increase center.
Step 4. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center – fig 120. The middle chain space made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc join in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-4.
Repeat Step 4 until short side of sleeve is about mid-forearm (11 rounds for me). Each time you hit the increase center, move the stitch marker to the center ch-1 space of the increase point, marking your new increase point for the next round – Figs 121-123.
Step 5. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the space before the increase center – fig 124. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the next space – increase made. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center – increase made – fig 125. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the space after the increase center- increase made – fig 126. The middle chain space made in the middle increase is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending on a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join – fig 127.
Fig. 127: Shown above is the three adjacent increases made after Step 5, each with the center space of the increase marked.
Step 6. Ch 4– counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the middle of one increase before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces – fig 128. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the third increase – fig 129. The middle chain space in the middle increase made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.
(Basically, put a 3-space increase in the center of each increase, dc + ch 1 in every other space.)
Step 7. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the sp, ch 1) rpt the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join – fig 130.
Rpt Step 7 until the length reaches your wrist, or as many times as desired.
Step 8. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space. 1 dc in the next dc. (2 dc in next ch-1 space, 1 dc in next dc – fig 131) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 132.
Step 9. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in ea st around. Join with a sl st in top of beg chain.
Step 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
Step 11: Ch 1 – counts as first sc. Sc in the next space. (Sc in the next dc, sc in the next space) rpt around. Join with a sl st to the beg ch.
Fig. 133- Step 8 repeated twice with 9, 10, and 11 complete.
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat sleeve on the other side. Remember that if you start your second sleeve in the same place as the first, you will need to re-measure to find the space at the elbow before Step 4 – it may not be the same as you will be working in the opposite direction.
Weave in all ends.
The ties are formed by 3-4 bundles of yarn attached on each side then braided to make strings. These strings fasten together in pairs down the front of the garment to tie.
Beginning with the shell below the last cluster on the end of Rnd 36, place marker. Repeat on the other side. WS facing (or on the “inside” of the duster), attach yarn to the edge of the marked shell. Sl st in each stitch of the shells around, ending at the shell with the other marker – fig 134. Be sure to keep your gauge fairly loose. Cut yarn and tie off, weave in ends.
Note: For larger sizes, you may want to move the row of slip stitching for the ties out to the very last round of the garment so that it can tie across the full front of the torso. Test your tie placement with the jacket on before deciding!
Shown above is the slip stitching that reinforces the shells in preparation for attaching ties, worked in a contrasting color so you can see – I actually did the ties in the same white color as the rest of the garment.
Locate the shell in the middle of the two previously marked shells and mark it. This shell should fall in the center of your back when you try the coat on – if not, adjust placement so that it does.
With the coat on, decide where you want your ties to be and mark those shells with stitch markers. Take the coat off and make sure that your placement is even, using the middle marked shell as a guide. I like to do 3-4 ties on each side, 2-3 shells apart, beginning just above the apex of the bust.
Cut 5-6 yard long strands of yarn. Fold into a loop – fig 135, and pull through the middle slip stitch of the first shell on either side – figs 136-137. Draw tail ends through the loop and tighten – figs 138-139 – separate into 3 bundles of four strands and braid to the end – figs 140-141. Tie off. Cut 6 more strands, repeat the process of attaching to your next marked shell and braid. Repeat on one side, then switch to the other side and repeat process for as many ties as you like.
Weave in all ends and block if desired. Congratulations on your new piece of wearable art!
(Individual artisans may feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern – just please link back to me! For more on my usage information, see my About Page)
Time for more pictures!
And I FINALLY made one just for me, as an early birthday present to myself:
If you liked this pattern please consider sharing on Ravelry! I love seeing everyone’s awesome projects!
Has anyone made this pattern with a bulkier yarn? Does it work up as well?
Hi Amy! I have seen a few people work this in #4 weight yarn, but I don’t think I’ve seen anyone do it in #5 weight bulky yarn yet. You may try to look on the Ravelry project gallery for examples – https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lotus-mandala-duster/people
I love this pattern so much. I haven’t quite finished it yet but it’s turning out soooo beautiful. I moved in the middle of it and lost it in the yarn monster but found it recently and started her back up! I am using Caron Big Cakes in the color toffee brickle and it looks amazing. I can’t wait to have it finished. Looks like if you use big cakes it’ll take about 2 balls but that should be enough for a vest and maybe even the sleeves but not positive on the sleeves so don’t quote me. The stripes look awesome with this pattern and will be a nice fall layer. Thank you for letting us have this pattern, you’re amazing. The videos are really helpful if you’re stuck on a spot.
Next I want to make one with a chunkier yarn for a winter coat
Hi Carlie! Thank you soooo much for the awesome feedback! Your duster sounds like it’s going to be absolutely beautiful <3 be warned though the sleeves use a LOT of yarn lol 😉 I'd love to see it when you're finished if you want to send pictures definitely email some to me at moralefiber(at)yahoo.com 🙂 🙂 thanks for visiting!
Hi there. I’m currently doing your Lotus Mandala duster. I’m working with a size 3 yarn for the mandala part and a size 5 for the “body”. And adding the extra rows to make it a Size XL. The size 5 yarn I’m using isn’t actually that big, I think it’s deems a 5 because it has alot of “loose hair” for the yarn yet it’s not thick and is only slightly larger than the size 3 yarn. Since I’m only 5’1″ I’ll also have to compensate for the length at the bottom. I’m looking forward to seeing how this comes out. I’m really enjoying the pattern video. It really helps since I’m still new to crotchet. Thanks for a great pattern.
Wow that sounds stunning Charley! I love those yarns that are labelled a certain number when they obviously don’t work up the same way as the other yarns in that category 😉 😉 lol! I’m writing a blog post about yarn gauge and other yarn weirdness right now and I included a few paragraphs about that very thing! I hope everything is going well with the video to help you but if you have any specific questions you know where to find me 🙂 Thanks for the feedback!
I just wanted to say what a joy it was doing this pattern two different ways. First was with thicker yarn to make a heavier duster for winter, and second was to only use part of your pattern to make a doilie…..my friend saw the duster and wanted it made as her doilie. Hoping that doesn’t offend you!
Not at all, I’m so glad you enjoyed the pattern! <3 <3 <3
18. Sc in the space formed by the hdc join of the previous rnd. Ch 3.
Well I added an additional row because I’m making a large so am I really supposed to go down TWO rows and make a single crochet? It really doesn’t look right…
Hi Becci! I replied to your other comment about Round 15, if you’re still struggling I’m happy to take a look at it for you and help further – if you e-mail me directly you can attach a picture if you like! 🙂 But no, you’re not supposed to go down two rows 🙂 Just to the previous row.
I have! #5 bulky very heavy and can only be worn when cold but still beautiful. Not sure how to post a pic of it tho
I definitely want to see! You can share via my Facebook group or my Facebook business page (linked in the menu in the blog! <3) Thank you 🙂 🙂
I fell in love with this pattern, I just had to make it. I eventually did and it looks so beautiful I cannot begin to describe it! You are a genius! I for one think that this project was a ginormous acconplishment for me, and eleven year old. Ive never made anything like it and I was surprised that it was so pretty yet simple. I give you a thousand thanks for escalating my obsession with crocheting! And I also thank you for giving me something to brag about to my friends! 😂
Oh thank you so much Gabi! I don’t know how I missed this comment until now, but you have made my day!! 🙂 🙂 Thank you I’m so glad you liked it!!
Could you do the duster without the sleeves?
Absolutely! Just work the pattern as written, but then skip the sleeves. It looks great as a long flowy vest! I have seen many work this pattern that way 🙂
Hi! thanks for this great pattern! I have a question though… I am one of those very very tall Dutch woman.😁 I am 6.1 ft and 220 pounds. so yes, I made MASSIVE changes in row/ stitch count. HIHI! my issue is going to be the “round 35, top half” thing. I probably have about ten more rounds or so and way more stitches. I did not count my improvising yet.😂 what if i divide my stitch count in half (roughly) and make the extra rounds on the top half? do you think that would work?
I am almost at that point, so i hope i get an answer i time. otherwise it will be a few times redoing some half rounds. hihi! again, thank you so much! love this pattern and going to make at least one more!
Hi Catinka! So glad you enjoy the design – I’d love to hear some notes on how you expanded the size, I’m looking into writing some more sizes into this pattern and if you want to add your feedback I’d appreciate it greatly <3
As for how to approach the top half, yes you should take the number of stitches total and divide it by 2. You can find the middle stitch between the shoulderblades and measure the top half by counting a quarter of the stitches in each direction.
You can also add extra rounds only on this top portion once you measure it off 🙂
I’ve made one for myself and one for my sis- in-law. I get so many compliments! I wish I could share a picture…..
Hi, I love this pattern! I recently made this for myself in an ombré grey. I love it and so does everyone else. I was going to ask about a plus size pattern but you basically have answered my question on another ladies post. I am making this for my neighbor and she does not want a hood, she wants a cowl. Would I add extra rows at row 35? What would you suggest?
Hi Pixie, I’m not sure how one would attach a cowl to this piece… do you mean she just wants an extra long side on the neck portion? I traditionally think of a cowl as a circle or loop of fabric that is connected, which I have no idea how I would do on this particular garment.
If she wanted it attached to the piece, you would need to measure out on the top where her neck/head would sit along the back and from there make a chain long enough to slip over her head and just attach it to the other side, from there just work up from the chain and along the back side. you could essentially use any cowl pattern that would match or be adjusted to the stitch count you have as your “base chain”. Hope this helps any one in the future 🙂
Question? I notice you commented about color change after row 15. When did you go back to those colors for ruffles at bottom and on sleeves and neck. I don’t see a color change row comment after the first time.
This pattern is written without yarn color change specifications. I almost never change the colors at the same point and I don’t usually use commercial yarns to make these, so I just left it up to the individual to decide when to change colors on this piece 🙂 You can change colors at any point as long as you begin in the same stitch as the one you left off.
I made this as a vest and I love it!! Thank you so much. The YouTube videos were also really helpful. I made it using mermaid colors like pink, purple and teal. Definitely will make more!!
That sounds gorgeous – I’m so glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the awesome feedback!
Hi ! I am going to attempt to make this piece…i want to use various colors but have no idea when it change them…I like the purpley one and am going to do something similar. Are there any suggestions you can give me as to where in the pattern to switch?
Hi Sue! The purple-y one works the first 15 rounds in the same color (a variegated handspun yarn) then switches. I always switch at Round 16, and usually also around 21, 25, 32, 36, 37, and at the border of the sleeves 🙂 Its always a bit different though ,depending on my yarn and how I feel! 🙂
Woohoo !!! I finally started this Duster. I have been agonizing over what colours to make it for months and finally chose a Stylecraft premium acrylic yarn called Cabaret in the colourway Rainbow. As soon as I saw it I knew it was destined to become one of your dusters. It changes colour on its own so no decisions there and it has a bit of bling with a metallic thread running through it. I’m in love with it already. But just wanted to say that when I got to the treble triangle round I hated the loose tops of the triples so in the round of the 3 clusters I front posted around the triangle tops and that made my mess disappear. I hope you don’t mind my addition to your pattern I can make a neat tidy treble cluster at the top. Thanks for making your You Tube tutorial, its wonderful.
That’s a wonderful idea! Mostly the looseness of the treble triangles disappear when the final piece is stretched and the stitches loosen up after a few wears – but yes, it bothers me too!! One thing I have thought about doing is reducing the central stitch to a double instead of a treble, so that the cluster goes treble-double-treble, but I haven’t experimented with that yet 😉
So I’m not sure where to find the notes i.e. larger patterns
Hi Sydney! The tips on sizing this project up can be found on the Lotus Duster FAQ page here:
Thanks and let me know if you have any more questions! 🙂
I am so confused of where to begin where it says top half only step 35, and excited for next YouTube videos that are hopefully coming really soon.
Lol, I just filmed Round 35 yesterday 🙂 🙂 Not too much longer! As for where to start, you should start exactly where Round 34 ends. You don’t have to move your position at all – just keep following the instructions
Info on how to work out the half way point for rounds 34+35 would be helpful, I keep getting it wrong and I’ve re done it 4 bloody times now!!!
Hi there! There is now a video tutorial series for this project, and in Part 5 I explain more thoroughly how to work out the center portion of the rounds in question. Check it out here!:
And let me know if you have any other questions! 🙂
Do you know if this lovely crochet duster jacket has been written made using UK terminology at all?
I’m in Australia and we tend to use English terminology.
I can change the stitch names using the computer find and replace but I’m sure I’ll mess it up somehow 🙂
Thank so much for any help,
Hi Jann! Currently this pattern is only available in US terms and translated into Dutch. I’m interested in getting it translated into other languages though, so I’ll make sure to keep UK terminology in mind if I can get that to happen! 🙂 🙂
My lotus pattern ( the center part) is curling really badly. And I’ve been crocheting for years so I know it’s not tight. Do you think it makes a difference if you aren’t using cotton? The pattern didn’t say anything about fiber type (that I saw). Thanks Nicole
Hi Nicole! if you have checked your gauge, it shouldn’t matter that much what kind of yarn you are using. I suspect if the curl is that bad, there’s a different issue. What round of the pattern are you on?
Hi, I absolutely love this!! I am wanting to make it for myself but I am an xl girl. How do I go about the increase for that?
Hi Laura! There are some strategies to expand the size from Large to XL, even though XL isn’t written specifically into the pattern. You can find those strategies written out on the FAQ page, and if you want you can also follow the video tutorial, which also goes over some size expansion strategies (specifically ones for bigger busts, which need to expand the top half portion of the pattern only – that’s in Part 5)
You can find the link to the video and the sizing up instructions here 🙂 🙂
Thanks and let me know if you have any other questions 🙂
Hello. When I was making this, I went with the small because my bust was only off by just an inch, but when I got to the sleeves I realized how small they were and I had to chain an extra thirty so it could wrap around my arm. I can still go back and change it now, so are the sleeves supposed to stretch? And if I did the logical thing by adding more chains, how much is that going to change the patterns? Will it still work in the end as long as I remember I added 30 chains? I’m very sorry, I’m a beginning crocheter.
No problem Abigail! Garments are tricky, but the best way to learn them is just to go for it in my experience, so well done 🙂 There’s a definite ratio for expanding the armholes, and that can be found explained in the FAQ for this design, which goes into some details as to how to change the size to adjust for fit. That post can be found here:
There is also a video tutorial linked in that post, which might be useful to you later on, Part 5 discusses how to expand the top half for bust adjustments AND how to find the “center” of the garment at the collar (which you will need to do later, because you have adjust the armholes you won’t be able to work the pattern following the same stitch counts as are written).
Thanks and I hope that helps – if you need more specific advice (now or later) please feel free to ask!
Oh, and I forgot to mention, the sleeves won’t really stretch much because the chain stitches tend to stay pretty firm, so adjusting the sleeves is absolutely what you should do 🙂 🙂 Chaining an extra thirty is a lot though,you might have better luck making some of the other adjustments mentioned in the FAQ as well.
Thank you so much, this helped a ton!
Awesome, no worries I am happy to help! Let me know if you have any more questions 🙂 🙂
Okay, turns out I messed up when I was measuring the first time and I actually only need to chain 6 more, whoops. I’m glad I caught that before I went and chained another 30. So sorry for bothering you! I could have figured this out myself.