Finally! I have been working on rewriting, restyling, tweaking, and expanding this design for ages, and I am so excited it’s time to premier the new version for free here on the blog! (or for purchase in PDF – read on for more info).
Special thanks to my lovely friend Danielle for modeling for me 😀
You can get this pattern in downloadable, printable format from my Ravelry Pattern Store , my Etsy shop, or my Ko-Fi Shop!
UPDATE! A bonus PDF with instructions on how to create a hood on this garment is also now included for free! The tutorial is also available on my blog here: Lotus Hooded Duster.
UPDATE AGAIN: There is now a video tutorial underway for this design, Rounds 1-8 of which just went live! Find the video tutorial here and be sure to like and subscribe so you don’t miss the rest! I’ve created a FAQ page for this pattern as well, which can be found on my blog here.
The old version is still available on the blog for those that were in the middle of working one and want to continue with the same version. The NEW version is right here!
Some of the tweaks I have made to the design include reworking the neckline to make the collar more manageable (read- less ruffled), adding detailed instructions as to how to work the half rounds, rewriting the sleeve tutorial to be more precise, adding stitch counts for all the rounds on the main body, writing instructions on attaching ties, and generally cleaning up the writing style. OH, and I almost forgot – in response to many requests, there is now A LARGE SIZE! YAY! Check out the FREE pattern below!
Lotus Mandala Duster
Sizes Small (Left) and Large (Right)
Notes:
Reading the pattern: Pattern is written for Small with the changes for Large listed afterward – when there are no changes, directions apply to all sizes. Rows marked “Extra” with a decimal number are for Larges only (Example: “Extra Round 13.1”)
Joining the Rounds: This pattern frequently uses hdc and dc to join the rounds in the openwork portions. If you are having trouble with the round-end joins, please see my Chain & Stitch Join Tutorial at
https://moralefiber.blog/2017/07/24/chain-stitch-join-tutorial/
Color Changes: This pattern leaves you free to plan your own color changes. To change colors, cut old color and tie off, then join new color in the last stitch of the round (for solid rounds) or last chain space of the round (for openwork/lace rounds).
Yarns Used: The Small size Duster (pictured above on the left) is made with yarns recycled from sweaters. You can find a tutorial for how to reclaim yarn on my blog here.
VIDEO RESOURCES:
This entire pattern is demonstrated in my free video tutorial series on my YouTube channel here.
The Large duster (pictured on the right) is made with the yarn listed in the Materials section.
***Please note that the all-white example piece pictured in the pattern is the ONLY duster I’ve ever made with totally commercial yarn. All other dusters have been made with a mixture of scrap, hand-dyed, hand-spun, and recycled yarn from thrifted sweaters (as mentioned in previous paragraph) and I therefore can’t give you recommendations on how to recreate any of the examples using commercial yarn except for the one already listed in the pattern! Thanks for understanding 🙂
Materials
5.5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
Premier Cotton Fair (#2, 3.5 oz, 317 yds) – 6 skeins
Scissors & Tapestry Needle
Gauge: 3″ measured across the diameter after Rnd 3.
Final Dimensions:
SMALL: 22.5″ radius (measured from center of motif to bottom edge)
50″ diameter (measured from collar to bottom edge)
Up to 36” bust
LARGE: 26.5” radius
53” diameter
Up to 42” bust
Some terms:
Dc with last loop on the hook: YO once, insert hk into next st/sp, draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 lps on the hook. 2 lps remain on the hook (1 original and 1 left unworked from the dc stitch).
4-DC Cluster – Work 4 dc stitches, keeping the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 5 loops on the hook.
3-dc cluster – Work 3 dc stitches leaving the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 4 loops on the hook.
Shell – 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc
Main Body
Rnd 1: 8 sc into the ring, tighten – figs 1-2. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round. – 8 sc
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1 – fig 3. (Dc in the next sc, ch 1) 7 times – fig 4. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 – fig 5. – 8 dc + 8 spaces
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Rnd 3: Sl st into the next ch-1 space, ch 2 – counts as first dc with last loop on the hook – fig 6. Dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook – fig 7. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – fig 8. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 6 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp – fig 9, ch 1. Hdc in the top of the first cluster to join – figs 10-. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin your next round. – 8 clusters + 8 spaces
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fig.9
Fig. 10
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
Rnd 4: Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on hk, – fig 13, dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook – fig 14. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 2 – fig 15. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times – figs 16-17. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-3 space – fig 18, work 1 hdc in the top of the first cluster to join – fig 19. 16 clusters + 16 spaces
Fig. 13
Fig. 14
Fig. 15
Fig. 16
Fig. 17
Fig. 18
Fig. 19
Round 5: Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on the hk – fig 20. Dc into the same space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps. Ch 3 – fig 21. (Work 1 4-dc cluster into the next ch-2 space, ch 3) 14 times – fig 22. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster to join – fig 23. – 16 clusters + 16 spaces
Fig. 20
Fig. 21
Fig. 23
Fig. 23
Rnd 6: Ch 3 – counts as first dc – fig 24, 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3 – fig 25. (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 15 times – fig 26. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 27. – 16 sets of 3 dc + 16 spaces
Fig. 24
Fig. 25
Fig. 26
Fig. 27
Rnd 7: Sl st in the top of the next dc – fig 28. (Sk next dc. In the next ch-3 space work 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc – shell made – fig 29. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc – fig 30) 16 times. Join with a sl st in first sl st – fig 31.– 16 shells
Fig. 28
Fig. 29
Fig. 30
Fig. 31
Rnd 8: Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch 3, sc in the top of next tr stitch in the middle of the shell – fig 32, ch 3. (Dc in the next sl st between shells – fig 33, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 34. – 32 spaces
Fig. 32
Fig. 33
Fig. 34
Rnd 9: Ch 3 – fig 35. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next sc and draw up a lp, (YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk) twice – one treble stitch leaving last lp on the hk made – fig 36. Treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk – 3 lps remain on the hk – fig 37. YO, draw through all 3 lps, ch 7 – figs 38-39. (In the last st worked in the previous tr3tog, work 1 treble crochet leaving last lp on hk – fig 40. Work 1 treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk – 4 lps on the hk – fig 41. YO, draw through all four lps on hk – tr3tog made, ch 7.) 15 times – fig 43. Join with a sl st in top of first tr3tog. – 16 tr3tog + 16 spaces
Fig. 35
Fig. 36
Fig. 37
Fig. 38
Fig. 39
Fig. 40
Fig. 41
Fig. 42
Fig. 43
Rnd 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1 – fig 44. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1 – fig 45. Work 1dc in the top of the next tr3tog st, ch 1 – fig 46) 15 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch-4 – fig 47 – 48 clusters + 16 dc
Fig. 44
Fig. 45
Fig. 46
Fig. 47
Rnd 11: (Ch 3 – fig 48. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2 – fig 49. Skip next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space, ch 3 – fig 50. Sk next cluster and space, sl st in next dc – fig 51.) 15 times. Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Sk next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space – fig 52. Sk next cluster and space, dc in same st as the sl st join of the previous round – figs 53-55. – 32 clusters
Fig. 48
Fig. 49
Fig. 50
Fig. 51
Fig. 52
Fig. 53
Fig. 54
Fig. 55
Rnd 12: Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk – fig 56. Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster – fig 57. YO and draw through both lps on the hook – first tr2tog made – fig 58. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4 – fig 59. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the top of the next cluster. Sk next 2 chain-3 spaces, work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and pull through all 3 lps – figs 60-61. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the first tr2tog – figs 62-63. – 16 clusters + 16 tr2tog + 32 chain spaces
Fig. 56
Fig. 57
Fig. 58
Fig. 59
Fig. 60
Fig. 61
Fig. 62
Fig. 63
Rnd 13: Sl st in the next ch-4 space, ch 3 – fig 64 -counts as first dc. Work 4 dc in the same space. (1 dc in top of the next cluster – fig 65, 5 dc in next ch-4 space – fig 66, 1 dc in top of the next tr2tog, 5 dc in next ch-4 space – fig 67) 15 times. Work 1 dc in top of next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, 1 dc in top of tr2tog. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 68. – 192 dc sts
Fig. 64
Fig. 65
Fig. 66
Fig. 67
Fig. 68
Extra Rnd 13.1: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 22 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 23 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times – fig 69. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 200 dc sts
Fig. 69
Extra Rnd 13.2: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 23 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 24 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 70 – 208 dc sts
Fig. 70
Rnd 14: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc – fig 71, ch 1, sk next dc) 95, 103 times. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 – fig 72. – 96 dc + 96 ch-1 spaces, 104 dc + 104 ch-1 spaces.
Fig. 71
Fig. 72
Rnd 15: (Sk next ch-1 space. Work 1 hdc in the next dc. In the same st work 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc – scallop made – fig 73. Skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc – fig 74) 48, 52 times. Join with a sl st in the same st as join from the previous rnd – fig 75. – 48 scallops, 52 scallops
Fig. 73
Fig. 74
Fig. 75
When working with multiple colors, I always change colors after Rnd 15 – otherwise, the pretty scallops become hard to see after the next rnd.
Rnd 16: Ch 3 –counts as first dc. Sk next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next st (1 hdc in the next st – fig 76, sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st – fig 77) 47, 51 times. Hdc in next stitch, sk next st, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 78. – 192, 208 sts
Fig. 76
Fig. 77
Fig. 78
Rnd 17: Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. (Sk next st, dc in next stitch – fig 79, ch 2) 94, 102 times – fig 80. Sk next st,dc in the next stitch. Hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join – figs 81-82. – 96, 104 ch spaces
Fig. 79
Fig. 80
Fig. 81
Fig. 82
Extra Rnd 17.1 – Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2 – fig 83. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 2) 102 times – figs 84-85. Dc in the next space, hdc in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-5 to join. – 104 ch spaces
Fig. 83
Fig. 84
Fig. 85
Rnd 18: Sc in the space formed by the hdc join of the previous rnd- fig 86. Ch 3. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 3) 94, 102 times – fig 87. Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 96, 104 ch spaces
Fig. 86
Fig. 87
Rnds 19-20. Rpt rnd 18 – figs 88-89
Extra Round 20.1: Rpt Rnd 18 once more – figs 90-91
Fig. 88
Fig. 89
Fig. 90
Fig. 91
Sleeve Yoke round:
Rnd 21: Ch 3. (1 dc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times – fig 92. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces – fig 93, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space – fig 94) 10,14 times. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 63, 65 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
At the end of the round you should have 84, 90 ch-1 spaces and 2 long chain loops.
Note: You can add or subtract length from the sleeve yoke chain by adding or subtracting multiples of 3 chain stitches. For every 3 chains added or lost, be sure to skip or not skip 1 chain space on the row below – this makes the ratio 3 ch sts = 1 V-stitch space.
You can also adjust the fit of the garment by moving the armholes closer together (smaller fit, fewer v-stitches in between armhole chains) or wider apart (larger fit, more v-stitches in between armhole chains).
Fig. 92
Fig. 93
Fig. 94
Rnd 22: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, 1 dc in the next dc – fig 95. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts – fig 96. 1 dc in the next dc (1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9, 13 times**(See notes below) – fig 97. 1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 63, 65 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 460, 488 sts
** Moving the armholes further apart or closer together in the last round to adjust the garment to your measurements will change the number of repeats here. V-stitches that occur in between the two shoulder yokes at this point should have 1 dc per space, not 3 as with the rest of the round, so just place 1 dc in all V-sts here.
Fig. 95
Fig. 96
Fig. 97
Rnd 23: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (Sk next three sts, 1 dc in the next st. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st) 114, 121 times – fig 98. Sk next three sts, dc in the next st, ch 1. Hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 to join. – 115, 122 V-stitches
Fig. 98
Rnd 24: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (1 dc in the next ch sp, ch 3, dc in the same space) 114, 121 times – fig 99. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 115, 122 V-stitches
Fig. 99
Rnd 25: Sc in space formed by the hdc join of the previous round, ch 4. (Sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round – fig 100. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Fig. 100
Rnd 26: Sc in the space formed by the dc join of the previous rnd, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 4) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next ch sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Rnd 27: Sc in the same sp, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 5) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next space, ch 2, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Rnds 28-30. Rpt rnd 27.
Extra Rnd 30.1-30.2: Rpt rnd 27 two more times
Rnd 31: Sc in the same sp, ch 6. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 113, 120times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Extra Rnd 31.1: Rpt Rnd 31 – fig 101
Fig. 101
Rnd 32: Sc in the same sp, 6 dc in next sc – one fan made – fig 102. (1 sc in next ch-6 sp – fig 103, 6 dc in next sc) 114, 121 times, join with a sl st in first sc of the round. – 115, 122 fans
Fig. 102
Fig. 103
Rnd 33: Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st (the third dc of the fan) – fig 104, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2 – fig 105. (sk 2 sts, dc in next sc, ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rd dc of next fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2) 113,120 times. Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next sc, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rd dc of next fan. Ch 1, sc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. – 345, 366 chain spaces
Fig. 104
Fig. 105
Rnd 34: Ch 4 – counts as first hdc + ch 2. (Hdc in the next ch-2 space, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2) 114, 121 times. Hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, hdc in the 2nd ch of beg ch-2 to join. – 345, 366 ch spaces made
Working the following rounds on the top half ( the half with the armholes) only, beginning exactly where the last round left off:
Rnd 35: Ch 3. (Dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 1, dc in the same sp – fig 106) 171, 191 times. Ch 3, Sl st in the next ch-2 space – fig 107. Ch 3, turn. – 171, 191 dc V-stitches
Fig. 106
Fig. 107
Rnd 36: Sk first ch-3 space. Work 1 dc, leaving last lp on the hook in the next ch-1 space. Work 2 more dc with the last lp on the hook in the same space – fig 108. YO and draw through all 4 lps on the hook – 1 3-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2 – fig 109) 169, 189 times. 3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 space, ch 3. Sk next ch space, sl st in the next hdc – fig 110. Ch 3, turn. – 171, 191 dc clusters
Fig. 108
Fig. 109
Fig. 110
The next round returns to working over the entire circular edge of the garment.
Rnd 37: 3 dc in the first ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 171, 191 times – fig 111. 3 dc in the next ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 172, 173 times. 3 dc in the next chain space. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 112. – 1036, 1095 dc
Fig. 111
Fig. 112
Cut yarn and tie off.
Sleeves:
Fig. 113
Step 1. Attach yarn on the inside of the armhole, in the side of the last dc before the armhole on Rnd 21 (in fig. 113, this is the final dc on the v-stitch on the right side of the hole). Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1, 2 dc more in the side of the dc – fig 114. 2, 3 dc in each of the 8, 9 chain spaces – including the spaces that the v-stitches from Rnd 21 are worked into – fig 116. 2, 3 dc into the side of the other Rnd 21 dc on the opposite end of the armhole. 1 dc into the base of all 30, 33 ch sts – fig 117. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. – 50, 66 dc
Fig. 114
Fig. 115
Fig. 116
Fig. 117
Step 2. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join – fig 118. – 25, 33 ch-1 spaces
Fig. 118
Step 3. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sp, ch 1) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. – 25, 33 ch-1 spaces
After a couple rows of this, size down to a smaller hook if desired. I sized down to 4.5 to make the sleeve snug on my upper arm.
Rpt Step 3 until your total reaches 23 rows, or until the length reaches just below your elbow – fig 119.
Fig. 119
Locate the ch space that is centered at the back of the elbow and mark it. (14th space from the join for me, 17th on the large) This will now be the increase center.
Step 4. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center – fig 120. The middle chain space made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc join in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-4.
Fig. 120
Fig. 121
Fig. 122
Fig. 123
Repeat Step 4 until short side of sleeve is about mid-forearm (11 rounds for me). Each time you hit the increase center, move the stitch marker to the center ch-1 space of the increase point, marking your new increase point for the next round – Figs 121-123.
Step 5. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the space before the increase center – fig 124. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the next space – increase made. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center – increase made – fig 125. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the space after the increase center- increase made – fig 126. The middle chain space made in the middle increase is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending on a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join – fig 127.
Fig. 124
Fig. 125
Fig.126
Fig. 127: Shown above is the three adjacent increases made after Step 5, each with the center space of the increase marked.
Step 6. Ch 4– counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the middle of one increase before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces – fig 128. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the third increase – fig 129. The middle chain space in the middle increase made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.
Fig. 128
Fig. 129
(Basically, put a 3-space increase in the center of each increase, dc + ch 1 in every other space.)
Step 7. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the sp, ch 1) rpt the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join – fig 130.
Fig. 130
Rpt Step 7 until the length reaches your wrist, or as many times as desired.
Step 8. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space. 1 dc in the next dc. (2 dc in next ch-1 space, 1 dc in next dc – fig 131) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 132.
Fig. 131
Fig. 132
Step 9. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in ea st around. Join with a sl st in top of beg chain.
Step 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
Step 11: Ch 1 – counts as first sc. Sc in the next space. (Sc in the next dc, sc in the next space) rpt around. Join with a sl st to the beg ch.
Fig. 133- Step 8 repeated twice with 9, 10, and 11 complete.
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat sleeve on the other side. Remember that if you start your second sleeve in the same place as the first, you will need to re-measure to find the space at the elbow before Step 4 – it may not be the same as you will be working in the opposite direction.
Weave in all ends.
Ties:
The ties are formed by 3-4 bundles of yarn attached on each side then braided to make strings. These strings fasten together in pairs down the front of the garment to tie.
Beginning with the shell below the last cluster on the end of Rnd 36, place marker. Repeat on the other side. WS facing (or on the “inside” of the duster), attach yarn to the edge of the marked shell. Sl st in each stitch of the shells around, ending at the shell with the other marker – fig 134. Be sure to keep your gauge fairly loose. Cut yarn and tie off, weave in ends.
Note: For larger sizes, you may want to move the row of slip stitching for the ties out to the very last round of the garment so that it can tie across the full front of the torso. Test your tie placement with the jacket on before deciding!
Fig. 134
Shown above is the slip stitching that reinforces the shells in preparation for attaching ties, worked in a contrasting color so you can see – I actually did the ties in the same white color as the rest of the garment.
Locate the shell in the middle of the two previously marked shells and mark it. This shell should fall in the center of your back when you try the coat on – if not, adjust placement so that it does.
With the coat on, decide where you want your ties to be and mark those shells with stitch markers. Take the coat off and make sure that your placement is even, using the middle marked shell as a guide. I like to do 3-4 ties on each side, 2-3 shells apart, beginning just above the apex of the bust.
Cut 5-6 yard long strands of yarn. Fold into a loop – fig 135, and pull through the middle slip stitch of the first shell on either side – figs 136-137. Draw tail ends through the loop and tighten – figs 138-139 – separate into 3 bundles of four strands and braid to the end – figs 140-141. Tie off. Cut 6 more strands, repeat the process of attaching to your next marked shell and braid. Repeat on one side, then switch to the other side and repeat process for as many ties as you like.
Fig. 135
Fig. 136
Fig. 137
Fig. 138
Fig. 139
Fig. 140
Fig. 141
Weave in all ends and block if desired. Congratulations on your new piece of wearable art!
(Individual artisans may feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern – just please link back to me! For more on my usage information, see my About Page)
Time for more pictures!
And I FINALLY made one just for me, as an early birthday present to myself:
If you liked this pattern please consider sharing on Ravelry! I love seeing everyone’s awesome projects!
-MF
I’ve gotten lost on round 4. I’ve already started over, but I’m here again. Round 4 doesn’t say anything about making 2 4dc clusters on each chain space, but suddenly, it says you should have 16 clusters. I did notice in the photo that there are 2 clusters in each chain space. Should this be the case? Is it still chain 2 between each?
Thank you.
Hi Charlotte! Yes, Round 4 has 2 4-dc clusters in each chain space with a ch-2 in between each. It’s written that way in the pattern, except that the very FIRST chain space works one cluster in that space at the beginning of the round, and the second cluster in the same space at the end of the round. That part does tend to throw people off 🙂
Hi Regina , please a little help .
When i work row 22 , everytyhing is became “waves” ; it is normal to be that , or i made a mistake ?
Thank you
Hi Gabriela! That’s normal – there should be some ruffling happening on that row and on the rows afterward 🙂
Hey what do you consider a magic ring
Hi Jan! My favorite tutorial for the Magic Ring can be found on the Planet June website here:
https://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/magic-ring-right-handed/
There are several ways to do it but hers is a great explanation 🙂 Thanks!
I want to make this for my mil for Christmas. Do think it would work with lion brands mandala yarn. She really loves that yarn and it is quite thin and light.
Hi Felicia! I have seen this made with Lion Brand Mandala and it looks awesome! You can find examples of this project in that particular yarn on the Ravelry user page for this project here, scroll around and you’ll see several examples:
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lotus-mandala-duster/people
Thanks! 🙂
Pingback: 11 Free Boho Crochet Patterns - kaijumaddy
Hi!
Love your mandala duster pattern, and thank you. I am having trouble understanding which shells to reinforce for the ties. Do you mean for us to go completely around the duster with our reinforcement? Sorry. I’m just really confused.
Thank you in advance, Carol
Hi Carol! The shells being reinforced for the ties are the ones from Rnd 32, and you only need to do half of them – the half that corresponds with the half-rounds made on rnds 35-36, or the top half 🙂 does that help?
THANK YOU
Any chance to get the pattern in a diagram style?
I really wish! I have searched and searched for good diagram making software, but everything I have found is clunky and difficult to use and doesn’t have the stitches I need :/ If you have any suggestions let me know! 🙂
I love this so much!! I included a link to this pattern in my boho crochet round up! http://kaijumaddy.com/2018/06/23/11-free-boho-crochet-patterns/ Thank you ❤
Awesome! I am so glad you like it, thanks for linking me! ❤❤
Is there an extension for adding a hood?
Hi LeAnn! Currently there is not a hood extension, but it is something I am considering trying out since several people have asked! 🙂
Ok thank you. I was so hopeful there was a extension for a hood….😪 Got a cold Nature teacher. Thanks
Hi, on the 15 I have ended up with 52 scallops instead of 48, I had the correct number of dc on the 14, I am doing the small size, please help, I have done that row twice now ending up with the same number.
Hi Karen! Sometimes in cases like this it’s easiest to see what is going wrong by looking at a picture – would it be possible for you to send me one? You can do it by e-mailing me at moralefiber(at)yahoo.com or by messaging me on Facebook on my business page:
http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber
Thanks!
Thanks for your reply, I have tried messaging on Facebook and your email, neither seem to work. I think I can see where I went wrong, so am gonna go back to that row and do it again and see what happens 😵
That’s strange, I’m not sure why neither of those methods would work! 🙁 As long as you can figure it out though… just let me know! 🙂
Hi, it’s still not working, if you have 208 st at the end of round 13.2 you always end up with 104 after round 14, which then makes 52 scallops, am I right? 😨
Ah, ok! If you are working the small size, you don’t work the extra rounds – those are only for the Large size 🙂 That’s the issue!
Do you know what, I thought that earlier 😳 Thanks for your help 😀
Absolutely! The pattern mentions it in the Notes but it should probably be within the written pattern too so as to avoid confusion – I will add it in! Thanks for your feedback 🙂 🙂
Hi, I found an error in row 23. It starts with chain 3 but ends with hdc in 3rd chain of beginning chain 4.
Thanks
So it does! Thanks for catching that – I have fixed it now 🙂 🙂
Would it be possible to make this for a 9-10 year old?
Hi Rachel! I have seen other people make this for children’s sizes, but I have not personally done it. When asked about smaller sizes I usually refer people to the Ring around the Rosie pattern by the Lavender Chair, a similar style free crochet pattern that is written specifically for kid’s sizes 🙂
I LOVE this pattern! I’m on the second arm, just about done. It’s coming out beautifully, but the flare on the arms looks different than the pictures. The flare on mine is abrupt, and lumps out, it’s not a smooth curve like I see in some pics. The increases flared out in such a short time that it balloons at the base of the flare, it’s not gradual. Has anyone else experience this?
Nonetheless, it’s beautiful! Can anyone tell me how to get the flare smooth?
Hi Karen! This may or may not have something to do with the weight and fiber content of your yarn – I’ve seen the flare behave differently depending on my yarn. In general, the way I smooth the flare out on my pieces is to wait until the increase rows are done, then grab the sleeve by the increase point and give it a nice, slow, FIRM tug so that all of the stitches settle toward this point of stress. This helps smooth the increases to make it appear less bubbly 🙂
21. Ch 3. (1 dc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 10,14 times. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 63, 65 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.- 84, 90 ch-1 spaces and 2 long chain loops that form the upper halves of the sleeve yokes
I’m working this round now on the large size and want to confirm before I move on. For the first set of dc v stitches, should it be done 10 times or 14 times?
Hi Stephanie! Sorry for the delay in my reply – I have been away from my computer vending at an event this week. For the size Large, you’ll always do the second number of repeats listed whenever there are two options – so in round 21 you’d repeat the v-stitch 14 times. 🙂
Im struggling with the first round of the sleeve
Step 1. Attach yarn on the inside of the armhole, in the side of the last dc before the armhole on Rnd 21. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1, 2 dc more in the side of the dc. 2, 3 dc in each of the 8, 9 chain spaces – including the spaces that the v-stitches from Rnd 21 are worked into. 2, 3 dc into the side of the other Rnd 21 dc on the opposite end of the armhole. 1 dc into the base of all 30, 33 ch sts. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. – 50, 66 dc
If I put 3dc in each of the 8 ch spaces that is 24dc, plus the beginning chain 2 and 2 dc, and the 3 dc in the side of the dc on the other rnd 21, is 6dc more then dc in EACH of the 30 on the other side of the arm hole …
That is 24dc+6dc+30dc =60 dc
How are you getting 50?
Thanks Shanon
HI Shannon – when there are two sets of numbered instructions listed, the first number refers to the counts for size small, the second number refers to the counts for size large. So the count depends on which size you are making. For large, you will make 3 dc in each chain space and one dc in each ch stitch on the sleeve:
6 dc (for the sides of the round 21 stitches at either edge) + 3 dc in each of the 9 chain spaces (27) + 1 dc in ea of the 33 chain stitches (33):
So 6 + 27 + 33 = 66.
For the small, you would make 2 dc in each chain space and one dc in each ch st on the sleeve:
4 dc (for the sides of the round 21 sts at either edge) + 2 dc in ea of the next 8 chain spaces (16) + 1 dc in ea of the next 30 chain sts (30):
So 4 + 16 + 30 = 50
If you are making a large (i.e – putting 3 dc in each chain space) then your final stitch count should be 66, not 50.
Thank you, I will refer to this information when I make it again. Im starting another in just a few 😉
Hello, I messaged you before about making this longer, I started working on this pattern as suggested. I am doing the EXTRA Rnds. but it still isn’t long enough, I would like to make it longer at least to my ankles. So which netting rnd should I keep on doing until my desired length? Or do I do both netting rnds to make it longer? Thanks for your time in helping me out… It is a GREAT pattern…
Hi Beth! I would definitely repeat the Ch-6 netting round to make it longer, that one will afford you the most repeats and get you the most length 🙂 That would be the final diamond mesh round before the last couple rows 🙂
Ok thank you for responding and I will do the extra rnds on the ch-6 netting… (It doesn’t pay to be a TALL female…..LO) Thanks again….
I have been obsessed with this pattern for months and I think it’s time I did it. But I do have a question first. Is there a way to move the arm holes lower on the circle? My goal would be to shorten the length in the back but still keep all the fringe.
Lol, thank you! That’s quite a compliment! You could move the armholes further down by working them an earlier Rnd in the pattern. I would work to Rnd 13, then work an extra round there with the armholes place as far apart as the measurement between your shoulderblades. Of course, your counts for later rounds won’t be the same, but if you’re decent at fudging it than it won’t matter too much 🙂
Hello,
I’m at the beginning of row 35. I increased in more of the rows for the fit and the mesh look I wanted, so I’m not at the half way point. What stitch can I use to get to the point where I can work the v stitches along the top half of this piece?
Thank you.
Hi there! I would recommend just cutting the yarn and reattaching to get to the place where you would start the round normally – this can be determined by placing a stitch marker in the middle of the shoulderblades and then counting backward by half the amount of stitches worked in that round – then you’ll be starting in the right place to work the round as written 🙂
Any chance you might consider doing a plus-sized pattern? I am a BIG girl (US size 28W), and can never seem to find patterns i actually like available in my size. *sigh*
Hi Susan! I doubt I will be creating any more sizes for the written pattern for this design, but there are lots of tips and ideas for creating a version bigger than the Large size in the comments if you are inclined to try to experiment with the sizing yourself! 🙂
I would like to make this as a vest I saw the vest pattern but it is not as long as this so I would like to make this as a vest any suggestions?
Hi there! If you are wanting a vest similar to the Lotus Vest, but longer like the Lotus Duster is, you can definitley just make follow the pattern for the Lotus Duster and then leave off the sleeves to make it a vest instead of a coat. Make sure you use the recommended yarn weight, #2, for the duster, instead of the yarn weight for the vest (#4) if you want it to be long and drapey 🙂
Hi! First, I love this pattern. If I can get it right, I plan to make several in different colors. Question…how do I get it to look as open like in the pictures? I am petite and making the small version but like the open look of the stitches.
Thanks in advance.
Hi Shannon! Glad you like the design 🙂 Can you tell me more specifically what you mean by open – and/or which picture has the look you are referring to?
Hi. Thanks for getting back to me. Looking at the picture (small and large) the stitches look stretched out and open. I’m going to try a larger crochet book sin e i do crochet kind of tight.
Could be the difference between gauges, or possibly just the way it looks once it’s been worn and stretched out a little? 🙂 Changing hook size might work but be sure to check your gauge against the gauge given in the pattern!
Hi there! Still trying to get this right. On round 10, I only counted 45 clusters. I do have 16 chain spaces and the correct numbers for all the previous rows. Any thoughts?
Hi Shannon! Round ten should have 16 spaces, with three clusters worked into each space, making 48 clusters total. If you have 45, it seems like the likely explanation is that you have missed a space at some point on the round – is this possible? Let me know and if not we’ll keep trying to figure it out!
Hi. Me again. I figured out my trouble with round 10 and have made it to round 35. Does the “top half” mean from the join?
Thanks
Yay! Glad to hear you are making it through! Yes, the top half means from the join. You should be able to follow the stitch counts from the beginning of the round and end the row half way around on the circumference of the circle 🙂
Any times on how to make the sleeves a bit LESS flaired?
Hi Shanon! If you are wanting a straight sleeve, skip all of the increases made toward the end of the sleeve. If you just want a slight flair, only do some of the first part of the increases (not the tripled increases, just the first few rows where you increase by one)
Thank you, That is what I did yesterday, and it worked perfectly. 😉
Hello! For months I’ve been a bit OCD in contemplating making this pattern, but I needed to make various Christmas gifts first … and now that I’m finished with that, I now have time to make this! 🙂 But my problem is that I’m short and curvy. I fear the small will not fit the bust, but the large might swallow me! Also my upper arms are on the plump side and often that is a problem with some clothing. I’m under 5 feet tall! Usually I opt for a medium size for this reason, but you don’t have a medium, and the sizes in the bust measurements that you give for the small and the large have a 6 inch gap! What do you recommend?
Thank you!
Hi Charlotte! I have been contemplating adding a medium size for some time, but have not yet gotten around to it unfortunately – it is definitely possible to work this pattern for a medium size by only working some of the extra rounds given for the large size and by reducing the number of stitches working to start the sleeve. If you are a confident crocheter this strategy will make sense as you move through the directions, if not I can offer more specific advice for which rows to work of the Large size 🙂
Thank you so much! Wow, that was a very prompt reply — any quicker and you would have had to type in your sleep! ;-D
I’m glad to hear that you are wanting to make a medium size in this gorgeous pattern! While I’m pretty good at crocheting lace, I don’t have as much experience with crocheting in the round, except for a few simple hats and some amigurumi. So I probably can do this, but am just second guessing myself!
I think I will do a test in the vest version of this pattern since it is not as important for that to close in front. Then I can see how tight the front is and then make the adjustments you suggested for when I do the duster. Hopefully your suggestions will be helpful to others as well until you are able to post a medium version. I know that writing patterns is hard work!
Both the vest and the duster are gorgeous, but those sleeves on the duster are so wonderful, that I know I will want to make it sooner or later! <3
Thank you so much for responding to me! 🙂
Yes I think tackling the Vest before trying out the Duster is a great idea, especially if you aren’t too familiar with in-the-round work. If you have any questions at all just let me know here or on my Facebook page (www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber). The Vest is a lot looser in fit like you said. There is also a pattern for sleeves to add on to the vest (the link is on the blog page) but they are not as flared as the duster sleeves. Thank you so much for your kind words and definitely let me know how it goes! 🙂 🙂
I absolutely love this and have been working on making one for my SIL. I have gotten to the last step before weaving in all my ends and I’m wondering how long your lengths for the ties were before braiding. The instructions make it seem like they are 6 yards but that seems like a lot for each one.
Haha! It does say that, and yes, that’s a long strand of yarn! What I meant to type was 5-6 strands of 1-yard long yarn. I have fixed it so that my meaning is clearer – thank you for catching that! 🙂 Hope you are enjoying the pattern
Oh good. Now I can finish it. Thank you!
Well I finally finished after about a year. I tried to figure out a way to make this hooded for school teacher with bus duty, but got aggravated. My sleeves turned out better than the vest. I wanted length to hit at the back of my knee but I got my rear end covered. Thanks for this pattern. Will attempt again.
LeAnn Rawls
Good news, I have creating a hood option on my soon to-do list! 🙂
YEAH!!!!!! I look forward to making another one. Glad my friend didn’t look for my flubs. I have to remember for next one that my arm holes should be several rounds out from circle. I think that’s where I missed my length issue….
Armhole placement is definitely tricky! :O 🙂
I’ve been scouring the comments, and I can’t believe no one has had the same issue I am having! Between rows 15 and 16, I can’t seem to make the math work. I have 52 scallops (for the larger size), but when adding the stitches as indicated in Row 16, it only comes out to 156 stitches – 3 per scallop. Should the scallop actually be made like the shell in Row 7, with 2 hdc’s on either end? This would give it 8 stitches per scallop, allowing for 4 stitches in each in the next row. Your pictures appear to only have 6 stitches, in both this pattern and the original duster pattern, so I can’t figure out where the discrepancy is.
Hi Sarah! The scallop order for row 15 looks right – and there should be 52 scallops for the large as you have. Row 16 places 3 stitches per scallop, plus one stitch (the double crochet) in between each scallop. So for each scallop there should actually be 4 stitches, three worked into the central stitches and one double crochet in the following space. 4 x 52 = 208 stitches, and that’s how I got the counts. I hope that helps but if you are still having questions please let me know 🙂 🙂 Thanks so much!
I love this pattern but it’s difficult doing it from my phone. Is there a printable version.
Hi Daisy! The link to the printable version can be found in the first few paragraphs of this post – it is available for purchase through Etsy and Revelry! Thank you 🙂
Pingback: Circular Vests - Little Family on the Mountain
LOVE, LOVE, LOVE!! Any way you could do a video making one??
Hi Cheryl! Making a video for this particular piece is high on my to-do list, hopefully as a spring project 🙂 🙂 stay tuned!
On another page you did this but with straight sleeves and a fancy wrist cuff. Do you have that written up. I did this version with the long Bell like sleeve, but doing it in a large made the sleeves kinda heavy…I used premier variated yarn… I’ll have to locate the picture.
Yes the sleeves are kind of heavy on both sides, that’s true! 😉 I don’t have the written pattern for the straight sleeves, but all you have to do is skip the increases at the bottom part. I believe on that sleeve I did a few increases, like 3-4, evenly spaced, for a few rows at the end, to make the sleeve flared. 🙂 A similar sleeve can also be found in the pattern add-on to the Lotus Mandala Vest –
https://moralefiber.blog/2017/06/19/lotus-cardigan-sleeve-free-pattern/
how do u make the long sleeves for this
Hi Tabby! The written pattern for the sleeves is included in the post above – is there a different version of sleeves you were looking for?
Pingback: Lotus Mandala Duster Crochet Jacket [FREE] | Pattern Center
I am wondering what the yardage would be for a sleeve. I’m going to use a custom wolltraum cake for the main part and then separate cakes for the sleeves. I just need a yardage idea? Thanks
I remember it is bigger than I thought, lol! I would guesstimate 300 yds?
Pingback: Lotus Hooded Duster | Morale Fiber
Hello!
This is such a beautiful garment 🙂
I’d love to make one for myself. There’s this problem: my bust is about 53″ and hips are a whole lot more… so how do I make it larger without losing the magic?
Hi Anna! There are a few rows written into the pattern that are suitable for repeating to make this size larger than the written Large. Here’s a quick guide for increasing up from a Large:
Extra Rounds 13.1 & 13.2 – Add extra rounds here in pattern, such that Rnds 13.3 & 13.4 have increases in the 26th st and 27th st respectively, adding as many rounds as you want as long as you stay in pattern with the increases
Extra Rounds 17. 1 & 20.1 – each of these rounds can be repeated as written, but only a limited amount of times before the circle stops laying flat because there are no increases in these rounds.
Extra Rnd 31.1 – can be repeated a few times
Sleeves Step 1 – can work 4 dc’s to each ch space in the sleeve instead of 3 (as for Large), keep number of dc’s in the chain stitches the same
Armhole Placement – You may want to adjust depending on your back measurement – measure between your shoulderblades for a tighter fit or from armpit to armpit for looser fit. This should match the measurement between the two sleeve yokes (armholes) on the piece – there are notes in the pattern for how to handle custom fit armholes.
It can also be helpful to add extra rounds to the part of the garment that is worked only on the top half (Rows 35 & 36) so that you are adding length to the top and sides only (to keep it from getting too long)
<3 <3
Hi. I love this pattern. But I am confused. I’m on round 35 and it says top half only. I’ve read through some of the comments and one says you stop half way through the circumference. Do I tie off and go back to the join to start round 36?
Hi Hannah! The note before Rnd 35 says to work the top half only, and the actual Rnd 35 instructions are written for exactly how to do that. You just need to follow the instructions on how many stitches to work for Rnd 35 as written, then turn at the end of the Row and start working back the other direction for Rnd 36 🙂
On round 35 are you suppose to tie off and then go back to the join to start round 36?
Love the pattern.
No, just turn at the end of the Rnd as written in the Rnd 35 instructions 🙂
Pingback: Valkyrie Top Crochet Pattern | Morale Fiber
Hiya! Working my way through this and hit a snag at the end of round 17. I always go back and count my stitches/spaces, especially being new to crochet, and up to now, my counts have been correct. Unfortunately, I’m coming up nearly 40 spaces off from your count on row 17! I have no idea where I’ve gone wrong; any idea what I might have done?
Never mind, I figured it out. I feel silly. 🙂
Hi Alyx, are you 40 spaces short or 40 spaces too many? Also, which size are you working?
Was coming up 40 short, working the small. I figured out where I went wrong, should learn not to crochet half asleep!
Oh great, glad you got it worked out! Lol 😀
Will there be a video?
Yes! I am actually working on getting the tutorial video filmed currently. It will still be a while since I have to deal with finishing up another pattern first, but it is next on my list 🙂
For some reason I keep getting stuck on round 25 (I’m making the small version). All of my stitch counts and everything have been correct but for the life of me I cannot get this round and on 😩 what am I doing wrong??
Hi Amanda – what exactly about the round is causing issues for you?
I think it was the join. I’m on round 32 now and I’ve been coming up with the right number of stitches/chains so I think I’m past it finally 😂 I will admit it kicked my butt for a couple days! I really love your patterns and can’t wait to finish this one!!!
Oh I’m glad you got it figured out! The joins can be a little tricky in that area, if you would like, in the post there is a link to the Chain and Stitch Join Tutorial, which is written with this pattern in mind 🙂
I absolutely love this. I am new to crochet and sometimes have a hard time following written patterns. If you decide to make a video tutorial that would be awesome. I still might attempt this in written format though because I love it so much ! Lol
Thanks
Jeanniffer
That’s awesome Jeanniffer! You’ll be happy to hear that the video for the main part of this duster is next on my to-do list 🙂 But until then, feel free to message me with any questions!
I’m on Row 37. I have 366 ch sps (Row 34) which ends up with 1098 sts. According to the pattern it’s supposed to be 1095 which doesn’t add up. It adds up to 1101. Would you check this and tell me what’s right. I’m making a large. Thank you. BTW I love this duster.
Hi Brenda! You are right, 1101 is the correct stitch count for that round! It seems I overlooked the middle 3 dc stitches – thanks for the heads up 🙂 I’ll get that fixed
This pattern is GORGEOUS!! And I finally got up the courage to try it XD (forever years later) I can barely read crochet patterns, but the pictures really help, since I’m a visual learner! I started this pattern almost a week ago and I got all the way to row 18 and had to restart because I made a mistake all the way in row 2… soooo… I think I’m doing good getting wayyyy out of my comfort zone. But it’s a great duster, and works great with the dusty rainbow yarn cakes I have!!
That’s amazing Meghan! I absolutely love hearing when people venture into new territory with my patterns 🙂 🙂 You are gonna get so great at it! If you have any questions at all just let me know 🙂 I am hopefully going to start creating a video tutorial for this pattern soon, too.
Pingback: Seasons Change and So Do I | Morale Fiber
Hi I’m wanting to make this with 3 colors.
Cream as base color then a grey and a dark grey to contrast. Any ideas what rows I should use the grey and dark grey? Thanks
Betty
Sounds so pretty! I usually switch colors at round 16, and at the armhole round – it sounds like those would be ideal places for you since you are only using three colors 🙂
Has anyone done this fantastic pattern with a heavier, bulkier yarn? I want something beautiful and coooooozy!