Finally! I have been working on rewriting, restyling, tweaking, and expanding this design for ages, and I am so excited it’s time to premier the new version for free here on the blog! (or for purchase in PDF – read on for more info).
Special thanks to my lovely friend Danielle for modeling for me 😀
You can get this pattern in downloadable, printable format from my Ravelry Pattern Store , my Etsy shop, or my Ko-Fi Shop!
UPDATE! A bonus PDF with instructions on how to create a hood on this garment is also now included for free! The tutorial is also available on my blog here: Lotus Hooded Duster.
UPDATE AGAIN: There is now a video tutorial underway for this design, Rounds 1-8 of which just went live! Find the video tutorial here and be sure to like and subscribe so you don’t miss the rest! I’ve created a FAQ page for this pattern as well, which can be found on my blog here.
The old version is still available on the blog for those that were in the middle of working one and want to continue with the same version. The NEW version is right here!
Some of the tweaks I have made to the design include reworking the neckline to make the collar more manageable (read- less ruffled), adding detailed instructions as to how to work the half rounds, rewriting the sleeve tutorial to be more precise, adding stitch counts for all the rounds on the main body, writing instructions on attaching ties, and generally cleaning up the writing style. OH, and I almost forgot – in response to many requests, there is now A LARGE SIZE! YAY! Check out the FREE pattern below!
Lotus Mandala Duster
Sizes Small (Left) and Large (Right)
Notes:
Reading the pattern: Pattern is written for Small with the changes for Large listed afterward – when there are no changes, directions apply to all sizes. Rows marked “Extra” with a decimal number are for Larges only (Example: “Extra Round 13.1”)
Joining the Rounds: This pattern frequently uses hdc and dc to join the rounds in the openwork portions. If you are having trouble with the round-end joins, please see my Chain & Stitch Join Tutorial at
https://moralefiber.blog/2017/07/24/chain-stitch-join-tutorial/
Color Changes: This pattern leaves you free to plan your own color changes. To change colors, cut old color and tie off, then join new color in the last stitch of the round (for solid rounds) or last chain space of the round (for openwork/lace rounds).
Yarns Used: The Small size Duster (pictured above on the left) is made with yarns recycled from sweaters. You can find a tutorial for how to reclaim yarn on my blog here.
VIDEO RESOURCES:
This entire pattern is demonstrated in my free video tutorial series on my YouTube channel here.
The Large duster (pictured on the right) is made with the yarn listed in the Materials section.
***Please note that the all-white example piece pictured in the pattern is the ONLY duster I’ve ever made with totally commercial yarn. All other dusters have been made with a mixture of scrap, hand-dyed, hand-spun, and recycled yarn from thrifted sweaters (as mentioned in previous paragraph) and I therefore can’t give you recommendations on how to recreate any of the examples using commercial yarn except for the one already listed in the pattern! Thanks for understanding 🙂
Materials
5.5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
Premier Cotton Fair (#2, 3.5 oz, 317 yds) – 6 skeins
Scissors & Tapestry Needle
Gauge: 3″ measured across the diameter after Rnd 3.
Final Dimensions:
SMALL: 22.5″ radius (measured from center of motif to bottom edge)
50″ diameter (measured from collar to bottom edge)
Up to 36” bust
LARGE: 26.5” radius
53” diameter
Up to 42” bust
Some terms:
Dc with last loop on the hook: YO once, insert hk into next st/sp, draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 lps on the hook. 2 lps remain on the hook (1 original and 1 left unworked from the dc stitch).
4-DC Cluster – Work 4 dc stitches, keeping the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 5 loops on the hook.
3-dc cluster – Work 3 dc stitches leaving the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 4 loops on the hook.
Shell – 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc
Main Body
Rnd 1: 8 sc into the ring, tighten – figs 1-2. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round. – 8 sc
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Rnd 2: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1 – fig 3. (Dc in the next sc, ch 1) 7 times – fig 4. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 – fig 5. – 8 dc + 8 spaces
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Rnd 3: Sl st into the next ch-1 space, ch 2 – counts as first dc with last loop on the hook – fig 6. Dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook – fig 7. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – fig 8. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 6 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp – fig 9, ch 1. Hdc in the top of the first cluster to join – figs 10-. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin your next round. – 8 clusters + 8 spaces
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fig.9
Fig. 10
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
Rnd 4: Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on hk, – fig 13, dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook – fig 14. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 2 – fig 15. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times – figs 16-17. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-3 space – fig 18, work 1 hdc in the top of the first cluster to join – fig 19. 16 clusters + 16 spaces
Fig. 13
Fig. 14
Fig. 15
Fig. 16
Fig. 17
Fig. 18
Fig. 19
Round 5: Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on the hk – fig 20. Dc into the same space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps. Ch 3 – fig 21. (Work 1 4-dc cluster into the next ch-2 space, ch 3) 14 times – fig 22. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster to join – fig 23. – 16 clusters + 16 spaces
Fig. 20
Fig. 21
Fig. 23
Fig. 23
Rnd 6: Ch 3 – counts as first dc – fig 24, 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3 – fig 25. (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 15 times – fig 26. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 27. – 16 sets of 3 dc + 16 spaces
Fig. 24
Fig. 25
Fig. 26
Fig. 27
Rnd 7: Sl st in the top of the next dc – fig 28. (Sk next dc. In the next ch-3 space work 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc – shell made – fig 29. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc – fig 30) 16 times. Join with a sl st in first sl st – fig 31.– 16 shells
Fig. 28
Fig. 29
Fig. 30
Fig. 31
Rnd 8: Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch 3, sc in the top of next tr stitch in the middle of the shell – fig 32, ch 3. (Dc in the next sl st between shells – fig 33, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 34. – 32 spaces
Fig. 32
Fig. 33
Fig. 34
Rnd 9: Ch 3 – fig 35. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next sc and draw up a lp, (YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk) twice – one treble stitch leaving last lp on the hk made – fig 36. Treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk – 3 lps remain on the hk – fig 37. YO, draw through all 3 lps, ch 7 – figs 38-39. (In the last st worked in the previous tr3tog, work 1 treble crochet leaving last lp on hk – fig 40. Work 1 treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk – 4 lps on the hk – fig 41. YO, draw through all four lps on hk – tr3tog made, ch 7.) 15 times – fig 43. Join with a sl st in top of first tr3tog. – 16 tr3tog + 16 spaces
Fig. 35
Fig. 36
Fig. 37
Fig. 38
Fig. 39
Fig. 40
Fig. 41
Fig. 42
Fig. 43
Rnd 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1 – fig 44. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1 – fig 45. Work 1dc in the top of the next tr3tog st, ch 1 – fig 46) 15 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch-4 – fig 47 – 48 clusters + 16 dc
Fig. 44
Fig. 45
Fig. 46
Fig. 47
Rnd 11: (Ch 3 – fig 48. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2 – fig 49. Skip next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space, ch 3 – fig 50. Sk next cluster and space, sl st in next dc – fig 51.) 15 times. Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Sk next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space – fig 52. Sk next cluster and space, dc in same st as the sl st join of the previous round – figs 53-55. – 32 clusters
Fig. 48
Fig. 49
Fig. 50
Fig. 51
Fig. 52
Fig. 53
Fig. 54
Fig. 55
Rnd 12: Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk – fig 56. Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster – fig 57. YO and draw through both lps on the hook – first tr2tog made – fig 58. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4 – fig 59. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the top of the next cluster. Sk next 2 chain-3 spaces, work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and pull through all 3 lps – figs 60-61. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the first tr2tog – figs 62-63. – 16 clusters + 16 tr2tog + 32 chain spaces
Fig. 56
Fig. 57
Fig. 58
Fig. 59
Fig. 60
Fig. 61
Fig. 62
Fig. 63
Rnd 13: Sl st in the next ch-4 space, ch 3 – fig 64 -counts as first dc. Work 4 dc in the same space. (1 dc in top of the next cluster – fig 65, 5 dc in next ch-4 space – fig 66, 1 dc in top of the next tr2tog, 5 dc in next ch-4 space – fig 67) 15 times. Work 1 dc in top of next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, 1 dc in top of tr2tog. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 68. – 192 dc sts
Fig. 64
Fig. 65
Fig. 66
Fig. 67
Fig. 68
Extra Rnd 13.1: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 22 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 23 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times – fig 69. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 200 dc sts
Fig. 69
Extra Rnd 13.2: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc in ea of the next 23 sts. 2 dc in the next st. (Dc in ea of the next 24 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 70 – 208 dc sts
Fig. 70
Rnd 14: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc – fig 71, ch 1, sk next dc) 95, 103 times. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 – fig 72. – 96 dc + 96 ch-1 spaces, 104 dc + 104 ch-1 spaces.
Fig. 71
Fig. 72
Rnd 15: (Sk next ch-1 space. Work 1 hdc in the next dc. In the same st work 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc – scallop made – fig 73. Skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc – fig 74) 48, 52 times. Join with a sl st in the same st as join from the previous rnd – fig 75. – 48 scallops, 52 scallops
Fig. 73
Fig. 74
Fig. 75
When working with multiple colors, I always change colors after Rnd 15 – otherwise, the pretty scallops become hard to see after the next rnd.
Rnd 16: Ch 3 –counts as first dc. Sk next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next st (1 hdc in the next st – fig 76, sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st – fig 77) 47, 51 times. Hdc in next stitch, sk next st, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 78. – 192, 208 sts
Fig. 76
Fig. 77
Fig. 78
Rnd 17: Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. (Sk next st, dc in next stitch – fig 79, ch 2) 94, 102 times – fig 80. Sk next st,dc in the next stitch. Hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join – figs 81-82. – 96, 104 ch spaces
Fig. 79
Fig. 80
Fig. 81
Fig. 82
Extra Rnd 17.1 – Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2 – fig 83. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 2) 102 times – figs 84-85. Dc in the next space, hdc in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-5 to join. – 104 ch spaces
Fig. 83
Fig. 84
Fig. 85
Rnd 18: Sc in the space formed by the hdc join of the previous rnd- fig 86. Ch 3. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 3) 94, 102 times – fig 87. Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 96, 104 ch spaces
Fig. 86
Fig. 87
Rnds 19-20. Rpt rnd 18 – figs 88-89
Extra Round 20.1: Rpt Rnd 18 once more – figs 90-91
Fig. 88
Fig. 89
Fig. 90
Fig. 91
Sleeve Yoke round:
Rnd 21: Ch 3. (1 dc in the next ch-3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times – fig 92. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces – fig 93, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space – fig 94) 10,14 times. Ch 30, 33, sk the next 6, 7 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in the same space) 63, 65 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
At the end of the round you should have 84, 90 ch-1 spaces and 2 long chain loops.
Note: You can add or subtract length from the sleeve yoke chain by adding or subtracting multiples of 3 chain stitches. For every 3 chains added or lost, be sure to skip or not skip 1 chain space on the row below – this makes the ratio 3 ch sts = 1 V-stitch space.
You can also adjust the fit of the garment by moving the armholes closer together (smaller fit, fewer v-stitches in between armhole chains) or wider apart (larger fit, more v-stitches in between armhole chains).
Fig. 92
Fig. 93
Fig. 94
Rnd 22: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, 1 dc in the next dc – fig 95. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts – fig 96. 1 dc in the next dc (1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9, 13 times**(See notes below) – fig 97. 1 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30, 33 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 63, 65 times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 460, 488 sts
** Moving the armholes further apart or closer together in the last round to adjust the garment to your measurements will change the number of repeats here. V-stitches that occur in between the two shoulder yokes at this point should have 1 dc per space, not 3 as with the rest of the round, so just place 1 dc in all V-sts here.
Fig. 95
Fig. 96
Fig. 97
Rnd 23: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (Sk next three sts, 1 dc in the next st. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st) 114, 121 times – fig 98. Sk next three sts, dc in the next st, ch 1. Hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 to join. – 115, 122 V-stitches
Fig. 98
Rnd 24: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (1 dc in the next ch sp, ch 3, dc in the same space) 114, 121 times – fig 99. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 115, 122 V-stitches
Fig. 99
Rnd 25: Sc in space formed by the hdc join of the previous round, ch 4. (Sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round – fig 100. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Fig. 100
Rnd 26: Sc in the space formed by the dc join of the previous rnd, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 4) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next ch sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Rnd 27: Sc in the same sp, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 5) 113, 120 times. Sc in the next space, ch 2, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Rnds 28-30. Rpt rnd 27.
Extra Rnd 30.1-30.2: Rpt rnd 27 two more times
Rnd 31: Sc in the same sp, ch 6. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 113, 120times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round. – 115, 122 ch spaces
Extra Rnd 31.1: Rpt Rnd 31 – fig 101
Fig. 101
Rnd 32: Sc in the same sp, 6 dc in next sc – one fan made – fig 102. (1 sc in next ch-6 sp – fig 103, 6 dc in next sc) 114, 121 times, join with a sl st in first sc of the round. – 115, 122 fans
Fig. 102
Fig. 103
Rnd 33: Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st (the third dc of the fan) – fig 104, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2 – fig 105. (sk 2 sts, dc in next sc, ch 2. Sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rd dc of next fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2) 113,120 times. Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next sc, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in the 3rd dc of next fan. Ch 1, sc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. – 345, 366 chain spaces
Fig. 104
Fig. 105
Rnd 34: Ch 4 – counts as first hdc + ch 2. (Hdc in the next ch-2 space, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2) 114, 121 times. Hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, hdc in the 2nd ch of beg ch-2 to join. – 345, 366 ch spaces made
Working the following rounds on the top half ( the half with the armholes) only, beginning exactly where the last round left off:
Rnd 35: Ch 3. (Dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 1, dc in the same sp – fig 106) 171, 191 times. Ch 3, Sl st in the next ch-2 space – fig 107. Ch 3, turn. – 171, 191 dc V-stitches
Fig. 106
Fig. 107
Rnd 36: Sk first ch-3 space. Work 1 dc, leaving last lp on the hook in the next ch-1 space. Work 2 more dc with the last lp on the hook in the same space – fig 108. YO and draw through all 4 lps on the hook – 1 3-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2 – fig 109) 169, 189 times. 3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 space, ch 3. Sk next ch space, sl st in the next hdc – fig 110. Ch 3, turn. – 171, 191 dc clusters
Fig. 108
Fig. 109
Fig. 110
The next round returns to working over the entire circular edge of the garment.
Rnd 37: 3 dc in the first ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 171, 191 times – fig 111. 3 dc in the next ch-3 space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) 172, 173 times. 3 dc in the next chain space. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 112. – 1036, 1095 dc
Fig. 111
Fig. 112
Cut yarn and tie off.
Sleeves:
Fig. 113
Step 1. Attach yarn on the inside of the armhole, in the side of the last dc before the armhole on Rnd 21 (in fig. 113, this is the final dc on the v-stitch on the right side of the hole). Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1, 2 dc more in the side of the dc – fig 114. 2, 3 dc in each of the 8, 9 chain spaces – including the spaces that the v-stitches from Rnd 21 are worked into – fig 116. 2, 3 dc into the side of the other Rnd 21 dc on the opposite end of the armhole. 1 dc into the base of all 30, 33 ch sts – fig 117. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. – 50, 66 dc
Fig. 114
Fig. 115
Fig. 116
Fig. 117
Step 2. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join – fig 118. – 25, 33 ch-1 spaces
Fig. 118
Step 3. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sp, ch 1) 23, 31 times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. – 25, 33 ch-1 spaces
After a couple rows of this, size down to a smaller hook if desired. I sized down to 4.5 to make the sleeve snug on my upper arm.
Rpt Step 3 until your total reaches 23 rows, or until the length reaches just below your elbow – fig 119.
Fig. 119
Locate the ch space that is centered at the back of the elbow and mark it. (14th space from the join for me, 17th on the large) This will now be the increase center.
Step 4. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center – fig 120. The middle chain space made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc join in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-4.
Fig. 120
Fig. 121
Fig. 122
Fig. 123
Repeat Step 4 until short side of sleeve is about mid-forearm (11 rounds for me). Each time you hit the increase center, move the stitch marker to the center ch-1 space of the increase point, marking your new increase point for the next round – Figs 121-123.
Step 5. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the space before the increase center – fig 124. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the next space – increase made. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center – increase made – fig 125. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the space after the increase center- increase made – fig 126. The middle chain space made in the middle increase is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending on a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join – fig 127.
Fig. 124
Fig. 125
Fig.126
Fig. 127: Shown above is the three adjacent increases made after Step 5, each with the center space of the increase marked.
Step 6. Ch 4– counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the middle of one increase before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces – fig 128. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the third increase – fig 129. The middle chain space in the middle increase made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.
Fig. 128
Fig. 129
(Basically, put a 3-space increase in the center of each increase, dc + ch 1 in every other space.)
Step 7. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the sp, ch 1) rpt the rest of the way around, ending with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join – fig 130.
Fig. 130
Rpt Step 7 until the length reaches your wrist, or as many times as desired.
Step 8. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space. 1 dc in the next dc. (2 dc in next ch-1 space, 1 dc in next dc – fig 131) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 – fig 132.
Fig. 131
Fig. 132
Step 9. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in ea st around. Join with a sl st in top of beg chain.
Step 10: Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
Step 11: Ch 1 – counts as first sc. Sc in the next space. (Sc in the next dc, sc in the next space) rpt around. Join with a sl st to the beg ch.
Fig. 133- Step 8 repeated twice with 9, 10, and 11 complete.
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat sleeve on the other side. Remember that if you start your second sleeve in the same place as the first, you will need to re-measure to find the space at the elbow before Step 4 – it may not be the same as you will be working in the opposite direction.
Weave in all ends.
Ties:
The ties are formed by 3-4 bundles of yarn attached on each side then braided to make strings. These strings fasten together in pairs down the front of the garment to tie.
Beginning with the shell below the last cluster on the end of Rnd 36, place marker. Repeat on the other side. WS facing (or on the “inside” of the duster), attach yarn to the edge of the marked shell. Sl st in each stitch of the shells around, ending at the shell with the other marker – fig 134. Be sure to keep your gauge fairly loose. Cut yarn and tie off, weave in ends.
Note: For larger sizes, you may want to move the row of slip stitching for the ties out to the very last round of the garment so that it can tie across the full front of the torso. Test your tie placement with the jacket on before deciding!
Fig. 134
Shown above is the slip stitching that reinforces the shells in preparation for attaching ties, worked in a contrasting color so you can see – I actually did the ties in the same white color as the rest of the garment.
Locate the shell in the middle of the two previously marked shells and mark it. This shell should fall in the center of your back when you try the coat on – if not, adjust placement so that it does.
With the coat on, decide where you want your ties to be and mark those shells with stitch markers. Take the coat off and make sure that your placement is even, using the middle marked shell as a guide. I like to do 3-4 ties on each side, 2-3 shells apart, beginning just above the apex of the bust.
Cut 5-6 yard long strands of yarn. Fold into a loop – fig 135, and pull through the middle slip stitch of the first shell on either side – figs 136-137. Draw tail ends through the loop and tighten – figs 138-139 – separate into 3 bundles of four strands and braid to the end – figs 140-141. Tie off. Cut 6 more strands, repeat the process of attaching to your next marked shell and braid. Repeat on one side, then switch to the other side and repeat process for as many ties as you like.
Fig. 135
Fig. 136
Fig. 137
Fig. 138
Fig. 139
Fig. 140
Fig. 141
Weave in all ends and block if desired. Congratulations on your new piece of wearable art!
(Individual artisans may feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern – just please link back to me! For more on my usage information, see my About Page)
Time for more pictures!
And I FINALLY made one just for me, as an early birthday present to myself:
If you liked this pattern please consider sharing on Ravelry! I love seeing everyone’s awesome projects!
-MF
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I’m on the last row of the “old” version but I’m excited to see the addition of the ties here! Thanks!!
Awesome! just in time 😀
What does top half only mean? From where to where?
It just means half of the circle (the half that constitutes the “top” half when the garment is on). The exact stitch counts for half are given in the actual instructions so if you follow it as written, you should be fine 🙂
Do you have the pattern in like a girls size 8(A childs size) thanks Pam
Hi Pam! Unfortunately I only have this pattern available in adult size – I usually refer people to the Ring around the Rosie pattern by the Lavender Chair, a similar design specifically written for children:
http://www.thelavenderchair.com/ring-around-rosie-vest-crochet-pattern/
Although, that garment does not include sleeves to my knowledge. Another great similar pattern can be found in the Autumn 2017 issue of Crochet! Magazine, this one includes sleeves and is written for child sizes up to 10 yrs:
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaleidoscope-jacket-2
Thanks and I hope that helps! 🙂
How would I increase the size for bigger than a large?
Hi Patricia! Here’s a quick guide for increasing up from a Large:
Extra Rounds 13.1 & 13.2 – Add extra rounds here in pattern, such that Rnds 13.3 & 13.4 have increases in the 26th st and 27th st repectively, adding as many rounds as you want as long as you stay in pattern with the increases
Extra Rounds 17. 1 & 20.1 – each of these rounds can be repeated as written, but only a limited amount of times before the circle stops laying flat because there are no increases in these rounds.
Extra Rnd 31.1 – can be repeated a few times
Sleeves Step 1 – can work 4 dc’s to each ch space in the sleeve instead of 3 (as for Large), keep number of dc’s in the chain stitches the same
Armhole Placement – You may want to adjust depending on your back measurement – measure between your shoulderblades for a tighter fit or from armpit to armpit for looser fit. This should match the measurement between the two sleeve yokes (armholes) on the piece – there are notes in the pattern for how to handle custom fit armholes.
It can also be helpful to add extra rounds to the part of the garment that is worked only on the top half (Rows 35 & 36) so that you are adding length to the top and sides only (to keep it from getting too long)
For the sleeves, after step 6 do you continue the increases in each of the next steps? Im having trouble getting my sleeves to look like the photo.
Hi Caitlin!
I usually don’t find it necessary to keep increasing at the increase center after Step 6 – most of the time I can give the sleeve a gentle tug in the right direction and it continues to point just fine. However, this can depend on how many more rows you are doing for Step 7 and also it can depend on the yarn. If you are losing the pointed shape for either reason, I recommend switching back to one increase (at the increase center) for each round for Step 7 to keep things pointed nicely. 🙂
Hello! So, I am currently on round 19-20 without any of the increases but am having some issues with ruffling. I started off this project with the old version and it resulted in having incorrect stitching numbers so I undid everything and decided to redo it with this version. All of my counts for stitching have been as said on the pattern but the ruffling is concerning me, what should I do to avoid it but not have to start from round 1?
Hi Lynn! At this point the circle shouldn’t be ruffling TOO much (there should be a bit of extra room at the edges but nothing extreme) so if you are having problems with this but your stitch counts and gauge are correct, my guess is that your yarn is the culprit. What yarn are you using?
The point of the pattern which you are working (19-20) would be difficult to modify to reduce the increases, however you can definitely modify a little later in the pattern. To reduce ruffle I would recommend working the second mesh portion (rounds 26-31) with sc, ch-3 repeats increasing to sc, ch-4 repeats, then sc, ch-5 repeats (instead of ch-4, ch-5, then ch-6) as is written in the pattern.
Having said all that, it’s also possible that your yarn just hasn’t “settled” yet – this piece does tend to relax and smooth out after it is finished, especially if you block it, but again the degree of difference will depend on the yarn used 🙂
Thank you so much for replying, it really settles my nerves. I checked back on where the ruffling started and then i looked back at the instructions further and realized i had been doing a 3 DC cluster instead of a 4 DC cluster which may have been the problem. I’ll try to do it again with your recommendations and making sure I am doing the correct stitch 😂
I am also using a #4 weight yarn with a 5.5 mm hook
No problem! That’s what I’m here for lol 😀 I will say that if you are working with a #4 weight yarn, the ruffles are definitely going to be more pronounced than the model pieces shown in the pictures if you work the pattern as written, but it’s still true that those will relax some after you finish and wear it about, especially if you block it 🙂
Okay. Thank you so much for replying, it was a huge help 😊
Can deborah norville serenity garden yarn work for this? Thank you !
I think that yarn would work beautifully for this project! I’d love to see pictures if you end up doing it 😀
Ty , im doing a boho sweater in deborah norville serenity garden gems right now with the lotus started in shawl in a ball lol l8ve the feel of the serenity garden so ill definitely be doing one.
No problem! Love both those yarns 😉
Hello I’m on round 22 and think i might have gone wrong some were , it says ch3 1 dc in next dc 3dc in next ch 1 space, that parts not a problem then is 1dc in each of the next 2 dc, but round 21 had me doing a v stitch , so i only have 1 dc then my ch1 space, which says 3dc,
so how do i do 1dc in next 2 dc so it doesn’t put me into the ch 1 space? Thank you
Hi there! You’re right, Rnd 21 does have a V-stitch, which is a dc, then a chain space, then another dc in the same space. This means that you will have 2 dc back to back because there is one on the outside of each of the V-stitches.
So from the beginning of the Rnd, it would work like this:
“Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next dc, 3 dc in the next ch space” which covers the first dc of the first v stitch and the chain space of that v-stitch, and THEN you have to dc in the 2nd dc of the first v-stitch, and then dc in the first dc of the NEXT v-stitch. So that’s the “dc in ea of the next 2 dc” And then you start over again beginning with the chain space of the v-stitch you are working.
Hopefully that makes more sense but if not let me know and I’ll try to get a picture to you 🙂
Thank you, I wonder if it was that, and yes makes perfect sense
Now to finish it off,
I see this pattern calls for Premier #2 yarn using a 5.5 mm hook. I would like to make this using a different yarn, see specifications below. I have no idea what size crochet hook I should use to match the gauge for this pattern. Can you tell me what size hook to use please?
The yarn I want to use is:
Lion Brand Mandela
100% acrylic
5.3oz (150g) 590yd (540m)
Light weight #3
4″ = 16 sc on size H8 (5mm) crochet hook
Dyelotted
Machine wash and dry
Thank you!
Hi Kate! Of course it will depend on your own crochet gauge, but you will probably be able to use the same size, 5.50 mm, as recommended in the pattern. I have seen a few examples of this made with the LB Mandala yarn and it seems to work nicely 🙂 But be sure to check your gauge after RND 3 – it should match the measurement listed in the Gauge on the pattern.
I literally just asked this very question glad I decided to look through the old comments.
What is the “magic ring” you begin with?
Hi Sherrie! The Magic Ring is a way of crocheting the first round of a circular piece so that you can tighten the ring after the stitches have been added, making a circle with no central hole/gap. The best instructions I have found are from June Gilbank, on her website here:
https://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/magic-ring-right-handed/
🙂
Thank you! I just love this pattern but love some colors of that yarn!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! This is absolutely beautiful. I fell in love with the mandala yarn and fell in love even more when I stumbled upon this gorgeous duster. It came out great. Your directions are prefect! I did have a question. If I wanted to do strait sleeves instead of bell sleeves, any suggestions to make sure the sleeves lay right? Thank you.
Absolutely 🙂 For straight sleeves, keep crocheting a simple dc, ch-1 mesh as for the first part of the sleeve. When you reach the elbow, keep working the same except insert a couple of rows where there are 1-2 decreases using a dc2tog method so that the bottom part of the sleeve isn’t too loose on the upper arm. The sister pattern to the Duster, the Lotus Vest, has an add- on for straight cardigan style sleeves. The stitch counts won’t be the same because the armholes are different, but you could check out the general idea if you want. That blog post can be found here:
https://moralefiber.blog/2017/06/19/lotus-cardigan-sleeve-free-pattern/
Hi, I am using a 5oz 142grams 252 yards would I still use the 5.5mm hook or would I drop down a size?
I recommend using the same size hook, but always check the gauge – it should be 3″ in diameter after Rnd 3 🙂
Hey my other question is can you explain round 2 a little better I’m stuck I don’t quite understand it, this is a present for my sister.
In Rnd 2 you just Dc, ch1 in every stitch 🙂
Hi, I’m using a 4 worsted weight yarn and 6 mm hook. My Duster isn’t very long like the picture. Could that be because of the weight of yarn I’m using? I’m trying to crochet as loose as possible and that’s why I tried a bigger hook size.
Do you have a video or thought about making one? I would love to watch you on some of the steps.
There’s no video for this one – I admit that I am lacking in video making skills, lol! I have made a couple short videos for other patterns but I am not very practiced at it yet. It’s possible that I might still make a video for this pattern sometime in the future, though.
Cynthialoowho has a video on YouTube that follows this mostly I think
Hi Wendy! Cynthia’s video covers the Lotus Mandala Vest, which is the shorter, sleeveless pattern that features the same central mandala 🙂
Hi Khourtney! I have seen lots of people make this with #4 weight yarn and unfortunately, they just don’t hang the same way, even with bigger hooks and looser stitches – this is especially true if you are using acrylic yarn versus an all cotton or cotton blend yarn. Plenty of people still enjoy the finished product in that weight though!
I’m using a size three sport weight yarn and I have the same problem. i’ve already put the armholes on it and i can’t figure out why it’s so small.
Hi Crystal – what is the yarn you are using exactly? I have found that the fiber content of the yarn used does effect the way this piece hangs, and lighter acrylic yarns will not drape the same way because they are not as heavy as the cottons I typically use for mine.
Hi!!! my name is Alex. I was wondering if you could explain row 3 to me a little bit better? I don’t really understand it 🙂
Hi Alex – Rnd 3 is just a 4-dc “cluster” (which is multiple stitches worked together) in each chain space, with 3 ch sts in between each. Does that help or is there a more specific part that is giving you trouble?
I am slightly confused about the 4 loops. Just to be clear, its 3 dc in one cluster correct?
Hi Jadelynne, which round are you referring to?
round 3
I see! Those are 4-dc clusters – the “four loops” part only applies to the very first cluster, which doesn’t have a “remainder” stitch on the hook because it is the first one. All the rest of the clusters should finish by pulling through 5 loops on the hook
Hi, I learned to crochet last month and have completed two of your beautiful duster jackets. This might sound silly but I’d like the collar a bit more ruffly as it tends to sit very flat. Any suggestions? And thankyou so much for sharing this pattern!!
Hi Tiffany! The old version of this duster has a more ruffley collar, and is still available on my blog here:
https://moralefiber.blog/2016/06/05/stevie-mandala-duster/
If you want the edges to REALLY ruffle, you can double the amount of stitches in row 35 & 36 by adding two V stitches to each space instead of one (for 35) or two cluster stitches in each space instead of one (for 36). You could definitely do both and get some super frills going on! 🙂
Thanks so much! I just put the ties on and am so happy with it! Just wondering, for my next one, do I need to slip stitch the reinforcing ALL the way around the top half, or can I just do it where the ties are going to be? I used colour changing yarn on the shells so the slip stitches will be very obvious.
Tiffany
You can definitely just do it for where you are placing the ties! I always slip stitch all the way around, but it’s a preference thing 🙂
Hi I’m curious…. is there a video of this? It would help a LOT.
Hi Jadelynne – There is a video that might help you, but it is for the Lotus Mandala Vest, which is a slightly different pattern. The two patterns are identical up to Round 16, so you can use the video to get the idea for the first part of this pattern. However, this video was not made by me but by someone whom I gave permission to make a video from my free pattern, and she doesn’t do the joins the same way I do which does matter for the Lotus Duster pattern. If you want to use the video to help for this pattern I would not recommend following the video exactly, but just using it to get an idea of the pattern in general.
Lol, anyhow now that I’ve made the proper warnings that video is linked to here: https://moralefiber.blog/2017/02/04/lotus-mandala-video-tutorial/
If you need help doing the joins the way that I’ve written them in the Lotus Duster pattern, you can see this tutorial post I wrote here:
https://moralefiber.blog/2017/07/24/chain-stitch-join-tutorial/
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Hi.. first of all, thank you for this fabulous pattern! I am almost finished with the body and am about to put the sleeves on. I used red heart unforgettable in tealberry, and it is beautiful! My question regarding the sleeves is this… do you have any tips on making the sleeves “match” when using these self striping yarns?
Also, i plan to make another one using the coral colorway of shawl in a ball (gorgeous!)… what hook size do you recommend starting with in my attempt to get gauge?
Your work is gorgeous, and i plan to buy the flower child pullover pattern from your etsy shop soon.
Thank you so much Jana!
For making sleeves with self-striping yarns, I find it’s easier to get the sleeves to match if you start with new, unused skeins bought in the same dye lot. It helps to pick the sleeve skeins out before starting the project but not absolutely necessary – that why you can choose the skeins that look the most similar in color progression when you look at the ends (the color in the middle should be close, it’s hard to get it exact). Then when you are starting the next skein, you can pull your yarn out until you reach the exact color you started with on the first skein for the opposite sleeve and start there. If you’re using multiple skeins per sleeve it gets trickier and you might have to “skip” more yarn to find the color where the first skein left off. The end result is that you end up with spare little balls of unused yarn that you hacked out trying to get to the right color, but if you really want your sleeves to match it’s worth it! Plus I love having little scraps to use for random projects so that’s win-win for me 🙂
As for the Shawl in a Ball, I have always hit my gauge target using the regularly recommended hook size, 5.5, so I’d start there and see what your gauge looks like. Hope that helps – your projects sound absolutely beautiful! If you want to share a photo you can send me a message via my Facebook business page here:
http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber
thanks! 🙂 🙂
Is there a way to make a hood into this?
Hi Tracie,
Although I have never tried, I have seen one Ravelry project that has attached a hood to the older version of this design. The difficulty about it is that the collar is wide and so the base of the hood would be very wide, but if you attached it further in you might be able to make it work. I’d like to try it someday – let me know if you attempt to do it!
I’m currently working row 21 and I feel like my arm holes are too close together. Maybe I’m misunderstanding the pattern, I don’t know. But the top portions of each hole are only 7 inches apart(the space between them). I’ve ripped it out four times and I keep getting the same result. It just seems really close to me. And for a size reference I’m 5ft 2in and usually wear a small/medium. I’m driving myself nuts trying to figure this out on my own. I’ve tried to put it on to see if it fits and I feel like a contortionist. Lol! Also, I bought the pattern because it has more pics and I thought there might be a shot of the spacing of the armholes but there’s not.
Your help and advice would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Danielle!
You’re right, 7 inches is quite close! A small should be closer to 10-11 inches. If you’ve already retried it that many times and you are sure the stitch counts are correct and it’s still too small, my next suggestion would be to move up to a bigger hook for this round, or possibly to add more chain stitches to the middle of the dc v-stitches that are placed between the two armholes.
Since moving up a hook size or two doesn’t effect the stitch count, I would do that first. Then, if it’s too small, try creating v-stitches with ch-2 or ch-3 in between the two armholes (the old version of this pattern used ch-3 v-stitches for the entirety of Rnd 21 – if you end up doing that, you can follow the directions for the rounds after 21 from the old version to get the right pattern)
Finally, if none of these options work for you, you can always just space the armholes further apart like in the Large size – you’ll have to alter the placement of the half-rounds later in the pattern if so, but that can be done relatively easily and I can give you some pointers if that’s what you end up doing.
If you have any question about what you’ve already done, you can always send me a photo via e-mail (moralefiber(at)yahoo.com) or Facebook (www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber) and I can help check it out 🙂
Thank you sooo much for your help! I think I finally have it figured out.
Yay, that’s great! 🙂 🙂
Is there a way to increase this to fit someone that is a 3X? I’m not very good at determining how to increase anything except afghans….
Thanks in advance,
Amy
Hi Amy! There are several places where you can modify the Large pattern to size up – unfortunately I can only give rough guides here, but hopefully they are helpful:
Extra Rounds 13.1 & 13.2 – Add extra rounds here in pattern, such that Rnds 13.3 & 13.4 have increases in the 26th st and 27th st repectively, adding as many rounds as you want as long as you stay in pattern with the increases
Extra Rounds 17. 1 & 20.1 – each of these rounds can be repeated as written, but only a limited amount of times before the circle stops laying flat because there are no increases in these rounds.
Extra Rnd 31.1 – can be repeated a few times
Sleeves Step 1 – can work 4 dc’s to each ch space in the sleeve instead of 3 (as for Large), keep number of dc’s in the chain stitches the same
Armhole Placement – You may want to adjust depending on your back measurement – measure between your shoulderblades for a tighter fit or from armpit to armpit for looser fit. This should match the measurement between the two sleeve yokes (armholes) on the piece – there are notes in the pattern for how to handle custom fit armholes.
It can also be helpful to add extra rounds to the part of the garment that is worked only on the top half (Rows 35 & 36) so that you are adding length to the top and sides only (to keep it from getting too long)
You may also want to add chain stitches to the armhole loops themselves to make them larger, but remember that this will change your stitch counts later on, especially for the placement of the half rounds.
I love your pattern!
As my gauge is smaller, can I repeat rounds 7-12 again before moving on to 13? Will it affect the overall stitch count etc?
Thank you so much 🙂 Since Rnd 7 starts with a base of 16 chain spaces and the progression through to Rnd 12 increases the total number of ch spaces to 32, I don’t think you can repeat these rounds without altering the stitch count. But there are places in the pattern that you can increase the number of repeats of the rounds to make up for a smaller gauge – here’s a little breakdown for that!
Extra Rounds 13.1 & 13.2 – Add extra rounds here in pattern, such that Rnds 13.3 & 13.4 have increases in the 26th st and 27th st repectively, adding as many rounds as you want as long as you stay in pattern with the increases
Extra Rounds 17. 1 & 20.1 – each of these rounds can be repeated as written, but only a limited amount of times before the circle stops laying flat because there are no increases in these rounds.
Extra Rnd 31.1 – can be repeated a few times
These “extra” rounds are for the Large size, but you can work repeats of them on whatever size you are making whenever you think you need to to make it bigger 🙂
I have completed round 31. But I would like my duster to be longer. How can I make it longer without making the top larger?
Awesome! To make the bottom longer, I would recommend mimicking the half-rounds that you did on the top but for the bottom instead – you can repeat the rows a few times each until you get the length you want 🙂
Also, it helps to block this item before deciding how much more you want to add on the to bottom – sometimes it gains a bit of length by settling out from blocking or wear.
I am a newly retired “left-over hippie”, went to college in the 70’s and when I saw your Lotus Mandela Duster I had flashbacks. I’m experimenting with color combos and the Lion Brand Mandela cake. I think the lighter weight yarns look much better. I saw in the Large size pattern that you listed #2 weight yarn requiring 6 skeins. If I want to do 3-4 colors with the lightest in the center, the sleeves straight and the same color as the center… would you split the color purchase to 2 skeins each color? Maybe an extra skein for the sleeves? I live in Idaho and my yarn purchasing has to come through the mail. Even our local Joannes doesn’t stock much in the way of lighter weight yarns. Please advise.
Wow, I am so glad you like the design! When I was a kid my mom always used to say I was born in the wrong decade 😉 I would say that 2 skeins per color is a good guess – the central color will not use a whole skein if you change around round 18 or so, which is where I normally change. Assuming the yardage is the same as the recommended yarn, you should be able to conquer the sleeves with the remaining yarn from the center (about a skein and a half) as long as they are straight sleeves. I would say that you might want to get an extra skein of whichever color you are using for the outer edge of the circular body – once you get to the outer portion of that circle it starts eating up yarn like crazy! 🙂 I hope that helps and let me know if you have any other questions <3
Hi I’m wondering if using red heart super saver yarn will make a difference on the outcome of the duster? And what is the letter for a 5.5 gauge hook?
Hi Bobbie! A 5.50 Hook is an “I” or a “9” hook I believe 🙂 Though I have seen people use #4 weight acrylics to make this piece, I do not generally recommend it as it does look pretty different than the models shown here. It will also be heavier and bulkier, not draping as nicely as the ones shown, and probably a lot bigger – but as with all creating it is also a matter of preference, so if you’re feeling adventurous you can of course try it out 🙂 But do be aware that it won’t look the same.
Hi I love the parttern so far! I’m at row 35 where it says work in top part only. My starting point seems to be lower than the top half, should I just slip stitch to get to a point where I think is halfway up?
Or should I finish off and reattach half way up?
Hi Kimberly! If you have followed the pattern as written, you should be in the right spot to work the top half of the pattern – if it doesn’t look right to you, I recommend just counting out the stitches to see if the written number of repeats for Rnd 35 ends on the spot halfway around the circle. Test it first and then if you need to change it, no big deal 🙂 The good news is it’s very hard to notice in the final produce if that edging is a little off.
I’m having trouble with step 3 in the sleeve part of the pattern, I don’t know if in suppose to continue in order to make the sleeve longer or not.
Hi there! You should repeat Step 3 until your total reaches 23 rows, or until the length reaches just below your elbow 🙂
Magnifique !!! Merci pour ces explications.
Thank you! So glad you like it 🙂
I have question about the arm holes. I am making the large so should I increase the 33 sc stitches or just add more v stitches between them
Hi Misty! If you are making the large as written and not modifying it to make it even larger, you should follow the pattern for the SECOND set of stitch counts when there are two listed. So your arm yoke would be Ch 33, skip 7 spaces, then V-stitch 14 times. 🙂
I am but I had to make the arm holes a little bigger. Too so I went to the old patter and saw where you said you could add to it as long as it was multiple of 3 is that right. So I ch 39 instead of 33. And slopes 8 spaces
Or can I chain 39 and skip 7 spaces
Oh, I see! If you are chaining 39 (multiple of three is correct), you should skip 8 spaces. You could skip 9, but that might be too big – depends on your gauge and size. I try to skip one space below for every 4 -5 chain stitches of the arm yoke as a general rule for this pattern. As for the V-stitches in between arm yokes, you can definitely work more spaces in between armholes if you think the back is too tight on you.
If you do a lot of adjusting in the armhole round, remember to check where the half-rounds fall later in the pattern, since those rounds are written to fall with the armholes centered at the top – if you extend the armholes you may need to extend the half-rounds as well, to make sure everything lines up. But that’s just a matter of counting out the number of stitches from the beginning of the half-round to the point above the center between the armholes, and then doubling that number 🙂
On average, how many skeins were needed for the 2xl and how much would you charge for a larger size duster?
2- 5xl. I’m doing about a 4ish…5ish xl. Think I’m going on 9th skein or 10th… looks like I’ll end about 2,000 yards.
Used Deborah Norville by Premier yarns EVERYDAY. 3.5oz skeins, 100grams, 180 yards per skein. Currently at elbow on 1st sleeve. Getting excited to do this bell sleeve. This is my first sweater ever.
I increased size for a present, but curious as to what one would charge for so many hours of work, for future endeavours!
This was a well written pattern, made pretty much as simple as possible, yet kept the gorgeous complexities within!
Hi, I’m so glad you liked the pattern! I’ve never made a 2 XL, but 2000+ yards sounds about right for the size you are making (maybe 2200 or more, but that depends on how large the sleeves are too) – and with a lovely yarn too! Deborah Norville makes some great yarns. The largest size I have made is a Large, and I usually charge from 275.00 – 300.00 for those.
Pricing handmade goods can be tricky, especially depending on your market – The first step to deciding how much to charge is to know exactly how many hours you spent on the project. One very good guide that I always recommend is this article from Creative Hive on pricing handmade goods.
https://www.creativehiveco.com/pricing-handmade-items-guide/
I don’t strictly follow those rules, but it’s a good measure for where to begin if you’re not used to pricing your own stuff. I always say that pricing is very personal and the most important thing is that YOU feel that your time has been given the appropriate value. 🙂
I have just a sleeve left to crochet… And I tried it on…. as gorgeous as it is, your sizings are off. I am usually a 2x…. I’ll war a 3x sometimes only for a good bit of room in the piece. I made the 2xl size, even went so far as using an L hook for all of it until you said to reduce the hook in the sleeve and I did… first to a K for a few rows, then a J, then down to an I. It was a natural slight reduction. The sleeves are nice. But the body is a bit small still even with adding all the extra rows everywhere in the pattern. It’s a hair tight across the back and doesn’t hang together in front, though could be pulled with ties easily.
Also, you should notate in big letters to use a cotton or another light yarn. I used 4 ply Deborah Norville premier EVERYDAY yarn… it’s quite heavy. I used about 11 skeins now, so it’s just under 40 oz, which is 3lbs 4oz approx. It’s no longer a light duster when it’s so heavy. Would definitely only use a 4ply with the smaller sizes and a cotton if over a Large is made. It’s gorgeous…i just think someone is going to get a costly gift from me. $55value in yarn and plenty hours of work. This would easily be $200 in any upscale store with the time and costs involved. Even at just $10 hr…
14.5 hrs(which it’s been more than 14.5) would be $145 labor and $55 yarn value (got it on amazing sale, but still costing $22). Sigh. $200. That leaves zero room for profit had I not got the yarn at 1.99 a skein on sale from $4.99 a skein.
How may hours did it take everybody else to make the different sizes?
It is gorgeous, just wish it fit better.
Ah, so sorry to hear it didn’t work out! 🙁
Hi was wondering if you have a youtube tutorial on this pattern as I am not good at following written patterns.
Hi Rose, unfortunately I don’t have a video tutorial for this pattern. I have planned on doing one for a while, but haven’t gotten around to it yet – perhaps this summer! 🙂
I’m so utterly lost. Over the past few months I went into a spinning craze along with some much I needed dying. Now I’ve amassed a large amount of size for worsted cotton. I would like to transfer this pattern to work with that and a size I-9 5 and 1/2 mm crochet hook as is suggested. Any tips to figure out how much roughly I would need of of the worsted to work this pattern?
Hi Alonzo! I have never tried to work this pattern in anything larger than a thin-side DK weight yarn (#3). The best advice I can offer for estimating yardage for a #4 weight yarn would be to have a look at the Ravelry project gallery for this pattern – its got so many helpful notes on a variety of different yarns for this project!
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lotus-mandala-duster/people
Hope that helps!
I love your pattern. I’m following the new version. Now is this the pattern for the duster with the really ruffled front? The beige and brown one? I’m making it for my daughter and I’m not sure which one I’m making or if they are the same duster…I love the design. I did take your advice and went to the lavender chair for my granddaughter pattern. Thank you.
Hi Marie! The new version, 2.0, is not as ruffled as the original (the beige/taupe and purple one). I cut down the ruffles to save on yarn and to make it a little lighter in the new version of the pattern, but the good news is the old pattern is still available if you prefer the look of that one!
https://moralefiber.blog/2016/06/05/lotus-mandala-duster/
There may be some rogue mistakes in it still, since it is not as thoroughly vetted as the new version, and there is only the one size for it. But you can pick up the old version anywhere before the arm round and it should be the same as where you were on the new version (as long as you are working the size small). 🙂
Ok, excellent. I love the full ruffles. I’m not done with my daughters and my neice wants one. Lol. Your patterns are beautiful. Is there anyway to send you a picture when I’m done? Thank you again for sharing your imagination with us. Xoxo
Thanks and you are so welcome! 🙂 🙂 I love seeing pictures, you can get them to me via my e-mail moralefiber (at) yahoo.com, or through my Facebook business page (linked at the top of my blog)
Hi I’m self taught and new to crocheting. Do you have a video I could follow along to for this pattern?? I’m having a bit of a struggle :/
Hi there! Right now there is no video for this specific pattern, although I do have making one on my to-do list!
The sister pattern to the Lotus Duster, the Lotus Vest, does have a video made by another blogger whom I gave permission to use my pattern. That video is great for the vest, and can be used effectively to learn the stitches in the first 16 rounds of the Lotus Duster (which is the same in both patterns). However, since the video for the Lotus Vest does not use quite the same round joining method as described in the written pattern, the identical part of the pattern (again, 1st 16 rounds) cannot be made in the same way that she does in the video, since join placement in the Duster matters later on in the pattern. Keeping that in mind, you might still find it helpful to watch the video for the Lotus Vest, which is linked in by FAQ blog post here:
https://moralefiber.blog/2017/01/31/lotus-mandala-vest-faq/
If you need help on figuring out how to do the round joining techniques used in the Lotus Duster, I have a blog post with a tutorial on that type of join:
https://moralefiber.blog/2017/07/24/chain-stitch-join-tutorial/
I know that was a lot of info and I hope it wasn’t too confusing! 🙂 🙂 I think this summer I will have enough time to create a video for this specific pattern. Until then if you have any more questions or need clarification on anything, just let me know!
I’m sorry but where did you tell me to share pictures at? I’ve finished my one daighter duster now I’m doing one for my other girl. I LOVE this pattern. Your instructions are fantastic. What colors did you use on the original small one? I enlarged it but dang if I can figure out the colors. It is beautiful. Thank you for sharing this. You are going to make a lot of people I know happy. You have a dedicated fan here.
Aw thank you! I am so glad you and your family are enjoying it 🙂 🙂 I’d love to see pictures – you can send them via e-mail to moralefiber(at)yahoo.com, or through Facebook to my business page here:
http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber
The original small duster was made with a handspun variegated yarn in the center – it features purple, maroon, light blue, and light green, and then there are two tones of taupe-y beige that I use through the rest of the garment, and I trim it again with the variegated handspun at the edges 🙂
Dear Regina, I want to use a ‘Bobbel’ for your design. (Maybe google this, it is yarn wich is made out of 4-6 strands wich are not twisted.) Do you think this will work? How many strands of yarn should I choose?You can only buy them in meter, not in oz. I think, I will need over 1000 m to do this?
What do you recommend? Best regards, Carmen
Hi Carmen! I think that yarn would look fantastic, so as long as you check your gauge you should be good to go 🙂 The pattern uses around 1500-1600 yds
Thank you for the quick reply. I will use a 5,5 mm hook as you said and Think I will buy 1500 m with 5 strands. I will choose colors soon and maybe show you the finished project in a few month. 🙂
Awesome, I would love to see it!
Do you have a video of tbis pattern being done. I dont really understand the written pattern. I really want to make this piece.
Hi Deanna! I don’t currently have a video tutorial for this piece, but it is high on my to-do list. When that happens it will definitely appear on my blog as well as be announced on my FB page (www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber) – so keep an eye out 🙂
Hello!
First of all I must say this is a beautiful duster! But I’m a bit stuck. At the and of round 17 I have to do a hdc, and the first can of 18 has to be int the hdc space, idk what you mean there.
Have a nice day, greetings from Aafke
Hi there, and thank you! The last hdc forms the final part of the space for Rnd 17, and working into that space at the start of Rnd 18 essentially means crocheting under the side of the hdc of the previous round. For more info on this joining technique, see the Chain and Stitch join tutorial here:
https://moralefiber.blog/2017/07/24/chain-stitch-join-tutorial/
Hope that is helpful! 🙂
Dear Regina, Thank you for sharing this pattern. I am so excited to try make this, this is a style that I love and your pattern reads easily. I have read through a few others that just leave me confused. It is also nice to see you are so willing to help out when crocheters get stuck. Now I need to find the perfect yarn.
Thanks again, Denise
Thank you so much! 🙂 I am glad it is easy to read – and of course if you have any questions while working on it, you know where to find me 🙂
hello,
i love this pattern and atlast i tried it. but i am little confused now, i made it with the hook no 4″ . does it make any difference in size. i am at Row 22 and i have added extra rows also, but i feel there is some error in size. what should i do.
4″ means 4 mm
Hi there! I am so glad you like the design 🙂 🙂 Unfortunately yes, the hook size does make a difference. If you used a 4.00 mm hook it will have most likely come out much too small – You will need to first check your gauge against the measurement given in the pattern (the diameter length of the circle after Rnd 3) and use the hook that gives you the same gauge as listed 🙂 If you have more questions about gauge and how to measure it, this is a good resource:
https://www.craftsy.com/crocheting/article/crochet-gauge/
Thanks!
Hi! This is such a lovely pattern. I have had so much fun making it! I am on Round 33 and I am making this pattern for myself to wear. As it is right now, it is at my ankles when I put it on. I am 4 feet 10 inches tall so I’m pretty short and it’s really long. I want to pull out Round 33 and jump to Rounds 35 and 36 from Round 32 to get the top part more like the picture and then make the sleeves but I am not sure how to adjust the pattern for that. If I continue the pattern as is it will go past my feet and drag on the floor. Any suggestions? I am using 4 Medium Red Heart Unforgettable Tealberry yarn for the whole project and an I-5.25mm hook on it.
Thank you!
Hi Jenny!
You could definitely skip some rounds to make the garment shorter, especially around the chain mesh (where there are several rows of sc, chain 5) but you may have to adjust your placement of the half-rounds (35 & 36) to make sure they are centered if you do that. It’s fairly easy to do, just mark the central stitch in between the armhole/shoulderblade area and count an even number of stitches down either side and mark the place that is halfway around from the central point, then work the half-rounds between those two points 🙂
hello. I am currently working on this pattern in two different sizes. my question for you is, what colors did you use for the one at the top of the page? I have a request for one in that color. Thank you.
Hi Angel! The one at the very top of the page is Premier Cotton Fair in white, but I’m not sure that’s the one you’re talking about since you refer to “colors” – can you be more specific?
It is the one marked as Stevie3. it looks like shades of purple with a bit of blue also in it
Oh ok! That one was made entirely with yarn that isn’t commercially available – the main taupe color is recycled sweater yarn, and the multicolored portion is made from hand spun yarn, so unfortunately I can’t refer you to anywhere that would have yarn like it. 🙁
I Just recently completed the duster and due to the yarn I used the main body doesn’t exactly stay ‘stretched’ you mentioned blocking the garment and my question was what way do you recommend? I’m afraid to take it to the cleaners because the arms are already as billowy at the wrist as I would like and I’m afraid they may stretch more at the cleaners.
Hi Mallory! I typically block this piece by first laying the circular main body flat and stretching the circle evenly around from the center to the edge to work out the mesh portion and make it appear even. Then, I use my mannequin to “wear” the piece, letting everything drape down and give the bottom edges of the circle a few good twitches to let everything settle downwards. Then spray with a water spray bottle and let sit! If you don’t have a mannequin, a hanger padded with a towel will work fine too 🙂
I love this pattern!!! I was wondering if you have adjusted for no sleeves? I would love this as sleeveless I get too hot but this pattern i gell in love with. You are truly talented. Thanks! Shelly S.
Hi Shelly, thanks so much! One option for this pattern is just to leave the sleeves off (they are worked separately from the main body and so they can be skipped entirely). The other option is the sister pattern, the Lotus Mandala Vest, which is more of a free-sized wrap that has no sleeves and can be found here:
https://moralefiber.blog/2016/06/05/lotus-mandala-circular-vest/
I am working on this and I have 9-3/4 inches across the back from arm hole to arm hole, is this correct? It sure looks small. I am enjoying your pattern, Thanks for sharing.
Hi Susan! If you are measuring between the two closest points of the armholes on the size Small, than that is about right – I usually come closer to 10″ on that measurement but that’s after it’s been stretched a little. The armholes should come up over the shoulders completely on the garment, so that the two closest points are resting on the inner edges of the shoulderblades. If the armholes are too small to reach that point on the body, than you’ll have to modify – otherwise it sounds like you’re on track 🙂
I had figured that measurement was at the top of the arm hole. I will rip it back as that was what I came up with making the larger size. I am using Mandala and a size I hook. I think while I am at it, I will try to make it fit me size 22. I knew when I started it that it would not fit me but I wanted to make it. Guess I will see if I can adapt it big enuff. Any helpful hints on going bigger?
Depending on the yarn being used, the gauge for this pattern does tighten up and end up smaller from what I have heard (especially if you are using 100% acrylics such as Mandala). So you may have to adjust the sleeves a bit to get them big enough! I normally recommend chaining more for the armhole and skipping an extra space on the round below for every 3 chains added.
Other than that, here’s some quick tips for increasing up from a Large:
Extra Rounds 13.1 & 13.2 – Add extra rounds here in pattern, such that Rnds 13.3 & 13.4 have increases in the 26th st and 27th st repectively, adding as many rounds as you want as long as you stay in pattern with the increases
Extra Rounds 17. 1 & 20.1 – each of these rounds can be repeated as written, but only a limited amount of times before the circle stops laying flat because there are no increases in these rounds.
Extra Rnd 31.1 – can be repeated a few times
Sleeves Step 1 – can work 4 dc’s to each ch space in the sleeve instead of 3 (as for Large), keep number of dc’s in the chain stitches the same
Armhole Placement – You may want to adjust depending on your back measurement – measure between your shoulderblades for a tighter fit or from armpit to armpit for looser fit. This should match the measurement between the two sleeve yokes (armholes) on the piece – there are notes in the pattern for how to handle custom fit armholes.
It can also be helpful to add extra rounds to the part of the garment that is worked only on the top half (Rows 35 & 36) so that you are adding length to the top and sides only (to keep it from getting too long)
Hope that helps! 🙂 🙂
Thank you so very much.
You are so welcome! 🙂
Gorgeous! I love the one with the darker color blends, the one on the cover picture at top. You don’t say how many of each skein you used for that particular combination, can you give me an idea, I am having a friend make one for me. Thanks!
Hi Andrea! All of the dusters pictured except for the white one were made with recycled sweater yarn that I pulled out of thrift store sweaters – so unfortunately I don’t know what kind of yardages those used because they didn’t come in skeins! However, I can estimate that if you are using the recommended yarn (Premier Cotton Fair) or a yarn with a similar yardage per skein, you’ll need about 1 skein each for the colors of the inner mandala (if you do 3 or so colors) and about 3 skeins for the main color, which is the outer part and the sleeves 🙂 Thanks and I hope that helps!
Hi! First off, I love your patterns!! Thank you so much for the time and effort you put into these beautiful patterns! I just recently finished the Flower Child Pullover and I loved it so I moved onto this one I have been wanting to make! I do have a question for you: In round 37 where you work the last round around the entire project after just finishing the 2 half rounds, I got my stitch count for the size Large to be 1096. You have the stitch count as 1101 for the large and I checked and double checked all the rounds before this one and made sure I had all the counts right and I’m still coming out with 1096 for the count on round 37. I’m going to move on since I can’t find any mistakes but wanted to check with you just in case your count is wrong 😊
Hi Kara! Thanks so much for the wonderful compliment and thanks for letting me know about the counts! I will double check that as soon as I can 😀 😀 So glad you like the pattern!
I checked the math and got 1095 as the total for the Large – not sure where that extra stitch is coming in, but no matter! I’ll try to get that error fixed in the PDF ASAP! Thanks again for bringing that to my attention 🙂