After seeing some great circular vests and talking about them with a fellow crocheter last festival, I came home inspired to do something I’ve had in my notebook for a while – rework my Lotus Throw pattern into a mandala-based circular vest! Which I did, and actually I did twice, which is why this post is a two-parter – each with a different FREE pattern guide. The sister pattern to this Lotus Mandala Duster is called the Lotus Circular Vest and can be found here.
IMPORTANT UPDATE 🙂 – This is the OLD version of this pattern. If you are considering starting this pattern, I recommend using the NEW version, which has been cleaned up and has stitch counts and more detailed tutorial sections as well as TWO sizes instead of one. 😀
ACT ONE
The Lotus Mandala Duster was one of those gravitational crochet projects that start with a small directionless idea and sort of grows and develops a certain gravity that pulls in other ideas and materials until it is way bigger than I meant it to be! It also qualifies as what I call a “sweater hack” since a large part of the materials came from yarn that was rescued from a boring old sweater and restitched into a new form.
This first piece was a doozy, because I wanted a really earthy western influenced duster style jacket and I also wanted to use up some #2 weight yarn doing it – I ended up using my fractal plied handspun for the center and outer accent, some recycled cotton blend sweater yarn** I’ve had forever, and a DK weight cotton blend to fill in the gaps. And I made the only partially conscious decision to add a little Lannister influence with a dramatic pointed bell sleeve. I guess I’ve been watching too much Game of Sleeves. I mean, Thrones.
**To get your own recycled sweater yarn, see my extensive tutorial Everything You Need to Know to Start Recycling Sweater Yarn.
Both patterns a bit more like guides, since the basic circular pattern makes it easy to add or subtract rows, adjust sizing, and freestyle if desired (it’s encouraged.) This Duster was made in size small, a few of the outer circle worked on only the top half (to balance the length since the armholes are placed high) and the sleeves are tutorial style instead of written in stitch counts. Since the Duster style coat was made with a bunch of homeless recycled yarn, I have don’t have a precise yardage requirement, but it tends to be around 1500 yards according to Ravelry and my own personal experience. 🙂
Lotus Mandala Duster
Notes: The Lotus Circular Vest has better close-up photographs of the central motif, so if you are having trouble figuring out a round you might find it helpful to look at the pictures on that post 🙂
5.5 mm hook, #1, #2, or #3 weight yarn – the recycled yarn I used was around 17 WPI, which could be fingering or sport depending on which chart you look at. Be sure to test your gauge, listed below.
Gauge: 3″ measured across the diameter after Rnd 3.
Final Dimensions:
22.5″ radius (measured from center of motif to bottom edge)
50″ diameter (measured from collar to bottom edge)Some terms:
4-DC Cluster – Work 4 dc stitches, keeping the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 5 loops on the hook.
Shell – 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc
Make Magic Ring.
HI THERE!! It’s me again. In case you missed it in the paragraphs above, you should really consider working from the new, updated version of this pattern. I left the old version up just in case someone still needs it, but the newer pattern is really where it’s at – two different sizes, rewritten instructions, etc. Okay, just making sure you knew. 🙂
- 8 sc into the ring, tighten. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round.
- Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sc, ch 1) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
- Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 1 – counts as first dc with last loop on the hook. Dc into ch-1 space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 6 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Hdc in the top of the first cluster. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin your next round.
- Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on hk, dc into ch-3 space 3 more times keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in same ch-3 space, ch 2. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times. 4-dc cluster in next space, ch 2. Join with a sl st in top of first cluster.
- Sl st in first ch-2 space. Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on the hk. Dc into the same space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps on hk – first 4-dc cluster made, Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster into the next ch-2 space, ch 3) 14 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster.
- Ch 3 – counts as first dc, 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3. (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
- Sl st in the top of the next dc. (Sk next dc, 2 Hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc in the next ch-3 sp – shell made. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc .) 16 times. Join with a sl st in first sl st.
- Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch 3, sc in the top of next tr stitch in the middle of the shell, ch 3. (Dc in the next sl st between shells, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
- Ch 3. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next sc and draw up a lp, (YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk) twice – one treble stitch leaving last lp on the hk made. Treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk – 3 lps remain on the hk. YO, draw through all 3 lps, ch 7. (In same dc as previous treble, treble crochet leaving last lp on hk, treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk, treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk – 4 lps on the hk. YO, draw through all four lps on hk, ch 7) 15 times. Join with a sl st in top of first treble.
- Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1*, dc in top of joined trebles, ch 1) 16 times, ending last repeat at *. Sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
- (Ch 3. 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space*, ch 3, sl st in next dc) 16 times. On 16th rpt, end at *, dc in same st as beg ch-3.
- Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk. Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and draw through both lps on the hook – first tr2tog made. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the top of the next cluster. Sk next 2 chain-3 spaces, work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and pull through all 3 lps. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the first tr2tog. – 16 clusters + 16 tr2tog + 32 chain space
- Sl st in next ch-4 space. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 4 dc in same space. (1 dc in top of cluster, 5 dc in next ch-4 space, 1 dc in top of joined trebles, 5 dc in next ch-4 space) 15 times. 1 dc in top of next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, 1 dc in top of joined trebles. Join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.
- Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) 95 times. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
- (Sk next ch-1 space, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc in next dc, skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc) 48 times.
- Ch 3 in the same st – counts as first dc. Sk next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next st (1 hdc in the next st, sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st) 47 times. Hdc in next stitch, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
- Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. (Sk next st, dc in next stitch, ch 2) 95 times. Sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5.
- (Sc in the next ch space, ch 3) 95 times. Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round.
- Sc in the same ch space, ch 3. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 3) 94 times. Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round.
- Rpt rnd 19.
Armhole round:
- Ch 3 – counts as first dc in V-stitch pattern. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times. Ch 30, sk the next 6 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times. Ch 30, sk the next 6 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space) 63 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
22: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-3 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9 times. 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9 times. 3 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-3 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 63 times. 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 480 sts (It has come to my attention that this stitch count, and therefore some of the other counts following, might be off, so please bear with me until I can check it!)
The placement of the armholes determines the size – measure straight across the shoulder blades to check your sizing.
- Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. Dc in the same st, sk next 2 sts (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the next st. Sk next 2 sts) 158 times. 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the next st. Sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
- Sc in next ch-1 space, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch-1. 1 dc in the same space. (1 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the same space) 159 times. Sl st in the 2nd ch of beg sc+ch-3.
- (Sc in next ch-1 space, ch 4) 159 times. Sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round.
- Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 4) 158 times. Sc in the next ch sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round.
- Sc in the same sp, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 5) 158 times. Sc in the next space, ch 2, dc in the first sc of the round.
28-30. Rpt rnd 27.
- Sc in the same sp, ch 6. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 158 times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round
- Sc in the same sp, 6 dc in next sc – one fan made. (1 sc in next ch-6 sp, 6 dc in next sc) 159 times, join with a sl st in first sc of the round.
- Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. Sc in 3rd dc of fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2 (dc in next sc, ch 2. Sc in the 3rd dc of next fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2) 158 times. Dc in the next sc, ch 2, sc in the 3rd dc of next fan ch 1, sc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5.
- Ch 4 – counts as first hdc + ch 2. (Hdc in the next ch-2 space, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2) 159 times. Hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, hdc in the 2nd ch of beg ch-2.
At this point the bottom of my duster was the length that I wanted it, so I switched to working the following rounds on the top half only so that the bottom wouldn’t be too long.
- Sc in the same space, ch 2 – counts as first dc. (Dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 1, dc in the same sp) 480 times. In first ch-2 sp of round, dc, ch 1, join with a sl st to 2nd ch of the beg ch-2.
- Sl st in the next dc and in the next ch space, ch 2 – counts as first dc with last loop left on hook, work 2 more dc in same space, leaving last lps on the hk. YO, pull through all lps on hk -3 dc cluster made, ch 2. (3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2) 480 times. Join with a sl st to the top of the first cluster.
Work next round over entire brim of sweater.
- Sl st into the next ch-2 space, ch 3 – counts as first dc. 2 dc in the same space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) around. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Sleeves:
After Step 1 of the sleeves
Step 1. Attach yarn on the inside of the armhole, ch 2 – counts as first dc.. 2 dc in ea ch space, 1 dc into the base of all 30 ch sts. 2Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. For larger sleeves, work 3 or 4 dc sts into each ch space. Work the same number of dc sts into the base of the chain.
Step 2. Sc in the same st, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch 1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) around. On the last repeat, replace the ch-1 with a hdc to position your hook in the middle of the space to begin the next round.
Step 3. Sc in the same sp, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sp, ch 1) around. On the last repeat, replace the ch-1 with a hdc to position your hook in the middle of the space to begin the next round.
After a couple rows of this, size down to a smaller hook if desired. I sized down to 4.5 to make the sleeve snug on my upper arm.
Rpt row 3 until your total reaches 17 rows, or until the length reaches your elbow.
Locate the ch space that is centered at the back of the elbow and mark it. (14th space from the join for me) This will now be the increase center.
Step 4. Sc in the same space, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center. The middle chain space made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around. Repeat until short side of sleeve is about mid-forearm (9 rounds for me)
3 spaces created in one chain space forms the increase.
After several rounds of Step 4
Side view – Step 4
Step 5. Sc in the same space, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the space before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the next space. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the space after the increase center. The middle chain space made in the middle increase is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around.
Step 6. Sc in the same space, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the middle of one increase before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the third increase. The middle chain space in the middle increases made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around. (Basically, put a 3-space increase in the center of each increase, dc + ch 1 in every other space.)
Step 7. Sc in the same sp, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the sp, ch 1) around. On the last repeat, replace the ch-1 with a hdc to position your hook in the middle of the space to begin the next round. – repeat until you reach 2 rows from where you want your sleeve to end (just past the wrist for me).
Sleeve Detail. Witchy!
Step 8. On the 2nd to last row, 2 dc in ea ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea dc around.
Step 9. One the last row, 1 dc in ea st around.
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat sleeve on the other side.
Weave in all ends.
And yes, I named it “Stevie” after the famous singer/songwriter and style icon, Sleevie Nicks. I mean, Stevie Nicks.
-MF
Update ! : Here are some photos of Steps 5 &6 of the ultra-ruffle sleeves, by request.
After Step 5. As you can see, each of the spaces of the [(Dc, ch1)4x] increase have a [(Dc, ch1)4x] increase. For step 6, you will increase in the middle space of each of these three increases.
Dc, ch 1 around the sleeve until you get the the middle (2nd) ch-1space of the first of the three [(Dc,ch1)4x] increases. (Dc,ch1) 4 times in that space.
Dc, ch1 in ea ch-1 space until you reach the middle space of the next [(Dc, ch1)4x] increase – three times in this case. [(Dc,ch1) 4 times] in the middle space.
Dc, ch 1 in ea ch-1 space until you reach the middle space of the third [(Dc, ch 1 ) 4x] increase. [(Dc, ch1) 4 times] in the middle space. Continue the sleeve by working one (Dc, ch1) in ea of the rest of the ch-1 spaces around.
It does hang kind of wacky at first, until you add more non-increased rows in Step 7 to balance things out.
I love it. I haven’t ever seen anything like it before. I want to make one.
Thank you! Let me know if you end up making one! I love seeing pictures.
I think these are so cute! I’m gonna make one for my mom. I was wondering how much yarn did you use, I couldn’t find where it says the amount of balls/yards you need.
Thank you! The reason I don’t have the yardage posted is because I always make these from recycled sweater yarn so the yardage is difficult to calculate, but the Ravelry project page for this design has many people listing their yardage around 1500 yards on average!
You can try weighting the finish product to get a round about idea of how many grams or ounces of yarn you used and base it off that and give it a lil extra to be on the safe side
For sure! I was planning on doing that for the one I am working on now, but it’s not finished yet 🙁 I need to get on that, lol!
When you say you worked the top half only you mean go back and forth on the top rather then working around the circle correct? I’m new with reading patters I learn better by watching lol
Yep! I usually just estimate what half is, as long as you’re close it doesn’t need to be exact
Oh and how should I go about blocking thisnif need be?
You can spread it out in an even circle and let it dry flat if you’ve got blocking boards that big, but I know personally I don’t have the space for that to sit around undisturbed 😉 My favorite method is to stick it on my dress form, arrange it nicely, and let it sit for 3-5 days, sometimes pinning the sleeves to the form to let the ruffles settle into their drape.
Okay I could do that and you just let the sleeves hang?
Yep! That’s what usually works for me anyway
Okay thank you=)
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Do I work 35 half way and then back or half way and then work 36 on the way back?
Good question! You work Row 35 halfway, then turn and work 36 the other way, and then turn again and work 37 around the entire circle. The “cleaned-up” version I am working on editing right now will specify this 😀 Thanks!
No thank you lol
I was wondering if this could be made in a bamboo cotton yarn or would it “pull down” to much?
Hmm, interesting question. I have made a smaller, sleeveless version of this vest in DK weight silk bamboo before and it was quite heavy, probably heavy enough that I wouldn’t make the full circle sleeved version in that particular yarn. The specs for that yarn was 65g / 102 yards, or about .64 g per yard. What’s the weight/yardage ratio of the yarn you’re thinking about using?
I’m guessing it is a hdc into the 3rd chain of the beginning 3 in step 4 of the sleeves and I don’t really understand how you explain to do the ultra ruffle is it adding in extra increase to the beginning and end of the inc section in 5 and 6?
Yep you are right about the Step 4. So for Step 4, you work (Dc, ch 1) in the central space of the 3-space increase for each time you repeat the round. For Step 5, you’ll work (DC, ch 1) 4 times in ea of the 3 spaces of the 3-space increase of the previous round, creating 9 spaces. At this point it’s helpful to place a marker in the middle space of each set of 3 spaces -so the 2nd, 5th, and 8th spaces, if I’m counting that right! These marked spaces will each get a 3-space increase in Step 6 – every other spaces (including the spaces in between the marked stitches) will just get the regular (dc, ch-1) once. Does that make more sense? There are some pictures at the very bottom of the post of Step 6 if you haven’t looked seen them yet 🙂
I really want to make one of these for my mother in law. However, she is probably a 2x in size. How would you suggest increasing for larger size, with larger arm holes?
Good question! So, the first thing you will need to do is measure from the outer edge of one shoulderblade to the opposite outer edge of the other shoulderblade. This is how far apart you’ll place the armholes. Now, the armholes themselves are Ch 30, skip 6 ch-3 spaces (since the previous round was working in V stitches, this is the equivalent of about 30 regular stitches, since each V is 2 dc plus a ch-3 space). Since you’ll be making the armholes bigger, you will also want to skip more V-stitches than I did. For instance, if you chain 40 for the armhole, you’ll want to skip 8 ch-3 spaces (the equivalent of 40 stitches) on the previous round.
I’ve also had a few different people say that to make this duster bigger, it is helpful to add extra repeats of Rnd 19 (just before the armhole round) and extra repeats of the outer edge of the diamond mesh (Rnd 31 should be good place to add extra repeats).
Hope that helps!
I’m making this as a 2X, so I am thankful for this info!! I’m using a J/6mm hook with silk blend and silk worsted weight yarn, so I don’t know if I’ll need to add more rnds of 19, but I’ll find out soon. 🙂 The armhole measurements are super helpful. Thank you!!
Yay! 😀
Hello again! I made it to the armhole round and realized the 13″ inches is not big enough to fit me so I’m going back and putting the armholes at round 17 like you recommended to someone else using the arm hole size for the duster adding 3 chains like it says in the vest pattern followed by the ch 1, sk next st, DC in next st. After you say to follow the vest pattern you say to work the rest of it using the duster pattern. Are you meaning from round 18 of the duster pattern or round 22? I’m confused.
I would definitely pick up the pattern at Rnd 22 of the duster! Later on you could add extra repeats of Rnd 31 to balance out the length if you felt like you needed to make up for the couple extra rows you’d be skipping by picking up the pattern there. Does that make sense?
A little. I did right by doing the DC, ch 1, SK st like I would for the lotus pattern, correct? But then if i’m picking up at rnd 22 I would ch 3 and then I’m confused on what I would do because there is not a DC to put a DC into, it’s the ch 30 for the armhole, and then it says after 1 DC in the next DC “(3 DC in next ch-3 sp, 1 DC in each of next 2 DC) 9 times.” RPT all of that again. Then it says 1 DC in each of the next 30 sts. 1 DC in next DC….” So would I just fenagle it to start out with the dc’s into the ch 30 sts since that’s where I left off and work the rest of the dc’s around in the ch-1 spa (rnd 17 lotus pattern) from there?
So what I would do is work the VEST armhole design, (Rnd 17) just like you did. Then, switch back to the DUSTER pattern and resume from Rnd 22, working 1 dc in ea chain stitch that forms the armhole each time you get to one, and working 3 dc in each ch space and 1 dc in each dc around the rest of the parts that aren’t armholes.
Omg thank you so much! I spent four hours last night ripping out stitches and racking my brain trying to figure out how to do it, even lost sleep. Lol!
Lol, glad I could help! 🙂
To clear things up I ended with a slip st in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-3 of the ch-30+3.
Is this an english pattern or american?
American, US terms 🙂
Is there a row missing from the sleeves at the end? It looks like there is supposed to be a round 10 of another dc and ch1 or am I reading 8 and 9 wrong
Yep, I added a couple extra rounds to the ends of the sleeves because I preferred them pretty long but didn’t write it into the original pattern. I did include them in the new version though, here they are:
10: Ch 3. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) rpt around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3
11: Ch 1. Sc in the same st as join, sc in the next chain-1 space. (Sc in the next dc, sc in the next space) around. Join with a sl stitch to the beg ch-1.
Thank you for the pattern. I needed to make this in a 2X-3X size so I used a N hook and it worked. I followed the pt tern as written just used the bigger hook. I posted it on ravelry.
Oh awesome, thanks so much for the tip! I saw your photo and it was lovely – do you mind if I post a link to your project on my Facebook page?
Thank you. Yes you can post the link. I will try to get measurements of it and add it to my project page.
Awesome, thank you!
I’m get to g ready to make this bad boy. Spring is right around the corner.
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I am in the process of making this with the Caron cakes bumble berry and was wondering if there was any way to add a hood? I’m fairly new to crochet so I wasn’t sure if it would work since the pattern is worked in a circle.
Interesting question! I have never attempted to add a hood, but because there is so much ruffle to the edge of the circle, it might be tricky. There is one project on Ravelry where the crocheter added a hood, but it doesn’t include notes on how she did it – it looks pretty awesome though!
Here’s the link: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/mrsmonkey1992/lotus-mandala-duster
Thanks, I’ll check that out! I have been trying to find a pattern with a hood but didn’t see where anyone had attempted it. Nice to know it’s a possibility 😊
Jen what hook size did you use for the caron cakes I’m actually using the same yarn and color you did for an order and would love any feedback you may have please I’m worried its not gonna look like the one in the photos for this project
If I want to increase the length which round should I repeat?
I would say Rnd 31 (the sc, ch-6 mesh) would be the best place to add extra repeats to increase length 🙂
I am an amateur crocheter and many patterns I’ve come across aren’t well written or they have to be translated and then something gets lost in translation. I appreciate your pattern and the easy to follow written instructions. It’s hard to find free patterns for what I am looking for. An oversized, off the shoulder, lacy/holey type over shirt.
So again, thank you.
Brandie
I didn’t check to notify me of replies. Ugh.
Aww, you are so welcome Brandie! I’m glad you enjoyed the pattern 🙂 I try to write as clearly as possible so I’m grateful to hear that it was easy to follow. Cheers!
I’m a little confused I started this pattern but Its turning in to a bowl after round 4. Am I doing something wrong?
Hi there! It should be laying flat – you should be working TWO 4-dc clusters in each space on Rnd 4, with ch-2’s in between each cluster. If you have and it’s still turning inward, let me know and we can investigate further 🙂
Thank you so much!
No problem, let me know if you have any other questions!
Made this…absolutely love it. Thank you for the pattern. Mine isn’t quiet as long but I used a bulker weight yarn. No pictures yet but will share some soon.
Awesome, so glad you liked it! 😀
I am totally in love with this pattern as I am currently doing one. I hit a snag though on step 10. It says to Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Work 1dc in the top of the next tr3tog st, ch 1) 15 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Here’s where my problem is. I don’t have another chain 7 space. I can’t figure out where I went wrong
Hi Sarah, so glad you like the pattern! So there’s 16 total ch-7 spaces worked into for Rnd 10 – there should be 3 total dc clusters in each of those ch-7 spaces. If you don’t have a total of 16 ch-7 spaces, I’m guessing you’ll have to go back and fix Rnd 9 somewhere.
Let me know if you can’t find the issue and I can try looking at a photo of it and see if I can find the problem!
I do believe it is in step 9 I just am not sure where I’m wrong. The very last looks so if there should be 1 more group but I don’t know where it should go. I have pictures but am not sure how to attach them
I found it. I missed a sc spot. Thanks for you’re help
Oh good, glad that’s solved! If you have any more questions let me know for sure – the blog doesn’t allow pictures to be attached in the comments as far as I know, but if you have another difficulty you can always e-mail me a photo along with your questions at reginaalexisweiss(at)gmail.com ! 🙂
Are you supposed to join together round 11 when transitioning to 12 when working on the back? It isn’t looking right when I do my ch 3 then Tr in the top of the cluster.
The end of Rnd 11 and the beginning of Rnd 12 are a little tricky, I’ll see if I can explain it better:
Rnd 11 works a ch-3 to travel to the next ch-2 space, then works 2 4-dc-clusters in that space with a ch-2 in between, then a ch-3 connected to the next double crochet. The final repeat of this replaces the last ch-3 that would connect to the next double crochet with a double crochet instead. Your hook should end Rnd 11 positioned just after the last dc cluster, with the double crochet you just worked in front. From there, you ch-3 (which stands in for the first tr with the last loop on the hook) and then treble in the next cluster. Does that make more sense? If not I’ll see if I can find a picture!
I pretty sure I figured it out looks like your picture
Oh yay! 😀
I absolutely love this , I am going to make one, thank you very much for sharing.
Can’t wait to try. I already have two requests for me to make them. Plus I want to make one for myself.
You are brilliant. I’m in Love !!!!
Aww thanks! <3
Hi I am in the process of making this right now, thank you soo much for sharing this by the way. I have a question though I’m wanting to make it with a caron cake color and wondering if I should use a bigger hook to get it to look more open like yours or if I should get different yarn? Thank you again!
Great question! Using the same size hook recommended here (5.5 mm) with the Caron Cakes yarn will definitely yield more density in the design, so it depends on the size you are shooting for. If you were wanting a similar length to the one pictured here, you could balance the difference in gauge by chopping out some of the repeats from the diamond mesh portion (Rnds 25-30 would be the area in which to decide to skip rows) if you decided to size up your hook. I’m sure that using a bigger yarn will affect the overall fit of the project, but again depending on the size you want this could be a bonus! I definitely recommend checking out the various projects and notes of the Ravelry project gallery for this design, you could see some good examples of how different yarns turn out!
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lotus-mandala-duster/people
Thank you very much!!!! 🙂
I am tryingnto learn how to read patterns and I think I understand the terminology but maybe not. If it says skip a stich and there is a chain one in that row do you not count that cgsin obe but go to an actual stich and skip it?
Whoops, my spelling corrections did not post, sorry
Hi Mary Jo! In my patterns at least, “skip the next st” refers to whichever stitch is next, chain stitches included 🙂 I’m not sure if that’s universal or not, it’s the way I usually see it done so that’s the way I do it.
Thank you
You’re so welcome!
I am confused on rounds 18,19,20 as if I crochet in each chain space as it says, I will have double the amount instead of 95 and it would keep doubling. Am I misunderstanding when it says to crochet in each chain space? There are not just 95 chain spaces.
Hm, I think maybe I see what you are getting at – when I say “crochet into each chain space” I am talking about the space “underneath” a length of stitching that is formed by combining several chain stitches. So for every chain-2 that you worked in Rnd 17, there is a little space underneath that length of chain stitches and you insert your hook underneath the length of stitching to work the next round.
This would be as opposed to working a crochet in each chain stitch, where you would insert your hook into each individual chain stitch (thus doubling the amount of stitching). Does that make sense? If that’s not the issue and you are talking about something else let me know! 🙂
Thank you, I think I understand. I will go back and see if I have done this wrong in other rounds. I hope you do not mind me asking questions when I get stuck. I really want to make this for my daughter and possibly a few others in the family. Thank you so much.
Oh I don’t mind at all! Please don’t hesitate to ask if you have any more questions 🙂
With the working in the top half, when turning how exactly did you work that?
Well, the simple answer to that question to how I worked that is “kind of messy,” at least at first 😉 I am currently working on rewriting parts of this written pattern to make it more concise and clean, include this part that works only the top half. Here’s a synopsis of how I am revising this part:
Row 35: work in the same direction as the previous rounds (i.e- do not turn at the beginning of the round). Follow the written directions, ch 3 at the end and sl st in the next ch-2 space
Row 36: Ch 3, turn – skip first chain space. follow written directions. At the end of the row, skip next ch space and sl st in the next space.
Row 37: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in the same space. Follow written repeats, working entire way around.
Thank you so much!
Is there an alternative to the Bell Sleeve ? I would like mine to be more like a regular sleeve.
Yep, I would recommend just repeating Step 3 of the sleeves all the way down to the wrist if you want something more like a regular sleeve. You could probably even throw a decrease or two in there so that it is more fitted to your arm (but this is option and will still look great without it). At then end of the sleeve I would recommend adding 2 dc in each ch-1 space as a cuff.
Thank You that was what I was thinking but was not sure it would look good. Love the flowing sleeve but just not on me !!
so I am on row 14 I believe with all of the clusters of 5 dc then 1 dc and it is starting to ripple and be wavy is it supposed to do that?
It should be 4-dc clusters, not 5, is that what you meant? If you’re doing 5 that probably explains the ripple 🙂 If not let me know and we’ll figure it out
Hi, yeah not its not the puff stitch cluster.. its just regular 5 dc in the ch 4 spot and the 1 dc on top of the 2 tc or the 4dc clusters that I’m getting a ripple at.. I just finished row 13 and that’s what started to ripple… is that supposed to happen or no? TIA!! 🙂
Oh woops! I was totally looking at the wrong round obviously 🙂 Sorry about that – how bad is the ripple? The edge does start to get a bit looser at this point, so if you’ve got a ripple going on you’ll be fine as long as you are sure you have the right amount of stitches – 192 dc stitches is what it should be
okay thank you yeah it is a little wavy but hopefully it turns out 🙂 thank you for your help.
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I have a question about what you mean by measurement straight across the shoulder bades. Is that measuring from the outside of one shoulder blade to the outside end of the other? Or is it the insid?. I am needing to increase the size of the duster and want to measure correctly. Thanks.
Good question! By “between the shoulderblades” I mean from the edge of one shoulderblade, across the back to the edge of the other shoulderblade 🙂
I just finished making this I only used one color love how it turned out now teaching a friend how to make one thank you for sharing your pattern
Aww that’s awesome! So glad you like it and I hope your friend does too 😀 You’re welcome and thanks for sharing the love!
I really love this. But I am not a small woman. I want it to fit a 2x to 3x size but in checking the comments, I have really gotten confused. How do I make the armholes and shoulder width bigger?
Hi there! To make the armholes bigger, you add more chain stitches when you are working the armhole round. The armholes are formed by working a long chain and then skipping stitches on the row below, then connecting the chain again to form a hole.
To make the width between armholes bigger, you increase the number of stitch repeats you work before starting the second armhole 🙂 Make sense?
So in order to make them bigger, I add stitches. The question now is how many.? Is there a certain count of even or odd to make sure the rest of the pattern turns out right?
Good question! It should be a multiple of 3, since Rnd 23 works a V-stitch then skip 2 stitches repeat. I don’t think it has to be a certain amount of multiples of 3, though.
My “gauge” is not 3.25″ after round three on any of the three that I have started so far. Idk where I’m going wrong.
Hi Amber, can you tell me what your gauge is coming out to be? Also, what weight of yarn and what hook size you are using?
I am using a #4 yarn buts it really thin. I’m using a 5.00 mm/H hook. My gauge is about 2.5″ from the edge of three to directly across to the opposite edge..
I suppose I’m wondering it the magic ring and considered the 1st round (#1in directions). the gauge of my fourth round (#4 in the directions) is 3.25″-3.50
The Magic Ring itself doesn’t count as the first Rnd, but the 8 single crochet into the magic ring DOES count as the first round. If this matches the way you were counting the rounds, and you’re still not meeting the gauge, I would try sizing up to a 5.5 hook or even a 6.0 and see if that helps 🙂
I also have like 15 more chain spaces to work into on like all of them but I’m on 21 right now. Going on where it says do the V stitch all the way around 63 times I have 75 chain spaces from arm hole to arm hole and even skipped 7 chain spaces instead of 6 chain spaces.
Idk where I’m going wrong but I’m gunna keep on it and see how she turns out. I wish I could post a picture the yarn I got is beautiful
Hmm, maybe there was an extra repeat somewhere along the line? Anyway, doesn’t sound like its messing things up really, so you should be good to soldier on! WordPress doesn’t let people post pictures in the comments but you can send them via Facebook, Instagram, or e-mail if you want! I love seeing pictures 😀
Hi, I am just starting the sleeves for this pattern and I am confused on how to even start them. The pattern reads “2 dc in ea ch space, 1 dc into the base of all 30 ch sts. 2Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round” so i am understanding it as doing 2dc in the spaces then also work 1 DC into all the stitches, am I understanding this wrong? Could you try to explain it to me a bit differently? Thank you so much for this pattern, mine doesn’t look exactly like yours but I’m leaving it the way it is, I will send pictures as soon as it is completely done.
So to start the sleeves, I would recommend starting at the first chain space inside the armhole – this is referring to the chain spaces created by Rnd 20, just before the armhole round. You’ll work 2 dc into each of these chain spaces, and that will cover about half of the armhole for the sleeve (or if you want a larger sleeve, you can work 3 dc into each chain space). Since the other half of of the armhole is made up by a length of chain stitches that are already worked into, you’ll work 1 dc into the other side of each of these chain stitches. Does that make more sense?
Yes, that makes so much more sense. I also have a question about starting the increase round, when you say to start it when it reaches the elbow, do you mean the increase should be at the elbow if I was holding my arm just naturally down my side or if I had my arm palm up and out? Again thank you so much for your help!
No problem! I would say measure that with the arm hanging down the side, when I did it holding my arms out the first time I found that it started a little too early since I wasn’t stretching the sleeve to the full length before judging where it landed on my elbow.
This is beautiful! I am so excited to start making it! I bought my yarn before (oops!) I noticed I was supposed to use 2,3,or 4 weight yarn. I bought a 5 weight yarn. I noticed in previous comments that the yarn size may make the duster larger. Do you suggest I do anything different with the pattern so it will fit? Should I still use a 5.5 hook?
Also, I just checked the WPI… it’s an 8. Thanks again! 🙂
🙁 I’m sorry to say that this piece would be way too heavy in a #5 weight yarn. I actually do not recommend doing it in anything thicker than a #3 weight, although there are some #4 weights that might work okay. But even in #4 weight, I have seen people remark that it is too heavy to wear.
I hate saying that because I am normally game to try anything and like encouraging others to experiment too, but my advice here would be to save your pretty chunky yarn for a different project. No harm in stashing it for later!
When it refers to just working the top half is that the top half as if you would literally fold the duster in half? Is there a specific place to start and end that I would be able to find easily?
Yep, I usually try to work the top half, as in you would work the rows back and forth across the circle as if you had folded it in half, or relatively close anyway, using the end of the last Rnd as the starting point. There is no easy way to find what half is other than guesstimating or counting unfortunately, and I also don’t have written instructions for how to accomplish the turns to make rounds into rows – it’s a very slapdash suggestion at the moment (although I am working on perfecting how to actually do it in the written pattern, but I’m not finished yet!). If it sounds like too much bother, just continuing to work the pattern in Rounds around the entire thing doesn’t really add that much length.
Thank you for your help.
I’d like to make a suggestion to those who are having trouble making the armhole big enough. After my armhole round I tried on the duster and the armholes were a little too snug. I pulled out the row and went up a hook size for the arm hole chains and the mesh in between. Fits perfect now!
Oh good idea! Thanks so much for sharing this tip 😀
Lovely patterns. Wish I’d found this site sooner.
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How many yards did you use total?
About 1700, but since I use recycled yarn that’s definitely an estimate 🙂
Hi, could you tell me on which rounds you did the color change? I really love the way you trimmed the piece with the variegated yarn and would like to do the same. Thanks!
The first color change is on Rnd 15 (thats the last round of the colorful part of the Mandala at the back) and then I change to the colorful yarn again on Rnd 33. Then on the sleeves I worked Step 8 only in the colorful yarn 🙂 P.S- there are a couple of extra rounds on the end of the sleeves that I haven’t written into the pattern yet, just in case that gets confusing!
I loved this from the moment I saw it. I am not far from what is going to have to be the end. I am kind of short but at the end of row 26 it is already past my knees! I’m thinking I will just take out rows 27-30 and do the next few rows at the top only until the finishing row. I can’t wait to have it finished but it’s not going to get a lot of use for the next couple of months as we are heading into Winter. Thank you for such a lovely pattern
I am so glad you liked it! And yes skipping those rounds is probably a good idea if it’s getting really long on you 🙂 Maybe you’ll be blessed with a few warm days to show it off before winter hits!
Turned out Fantastic. Wrote more on your ravelry page for this. Here’s a link to mine with pics
Wow, that did turn out fantastic! What a beautiful idea to add the filet designs to the mesh part of the sleeves – just gorgeous, thank you so much for sharing <3
I think this is one of the most important information for me. And i’m glad reading your article. But should remark on some general things, The website style is perfect, the articles is really nice : D. Good job, cheers
I am making this and I need to make it bigger and arm holes further apart. Where do I add stitches?
Hi Sharon! To make the armholes bigger, I would recommend adding stitches to lengthen the chains that form the upper part of the arm hole on Rnd 21 – the original chain length is 30 sts, but you might want to do something more like 35 – 40 depending on how much bigger you need to make it. You might also want to skip one or two more spaces before coming back to reattach the chain.
Then, still in Rnd 21, you would typically “(1 dc in the next ch space, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times.” which is just a series of v-stitches. To make the armholes further apart you will want to add more repeats of the parentheses, until that section measures the same as the measurement from the edge of one shoulderblade to the opposite edge of the other on whomever you are making this for. Then you can go ahead and start the other armhole, remember to do the same amount of stitches and skips on that one as you did for the other. After that, you can work the rest of the round as normal (although the repeat numbers will not be the same as they are written in the pattern since it has been altered, but you can just repeat until you make it the rest of the way around 🙂 )
To make the outer edge bigger, I would recommend adding several extra repeats of Rnd 31.
Just a quick question and probably an obvious one but seeing as I just wrote your pattern out long hand… and I can’t really tell in the pictures are the mandalas for Lotus and “Sleevie” Nicks (lol) the same? See I did browse the pattern but the row counts are a little different So I’m thinking no not the same? and I’m having a total brain fart now…
Fantastic pattern!
Thank you so much for sharing with us!!
Glad you like them! The Lotus Vest and the Lotus Duster (unofficially called the Stevie or Sleevie lol) have the same central motif and the pattern is the same up through Rnd 16 – the two written patterns for the central motif are phrased differently in places on the blog posts, but updating that is on my to-do list 🙂
After Rnd 16, the two patterns start to deviate, which is why there are different round counts.
Cool thanks for letting me know 🙂
Appreciate it!!
I am soooooo in love with your pattern! I made the best version in Caron simply soft with a rainbow color shift effect. It is so so neat. I liked that so much, I’m working on adapting it to a blanket. It’s taking a while lol. I’m also making the duster because I wanted something longer with sleeves and fell in love with the duster. I’m thinking of trying to add a hood because hoods are awesome, but that may prove to be too ambitious. Thank you for sharing this pattern, though. It is amazing!
I’m that should be best…Not best
Vest…Stupid autocorrect
Lol, dang autocorrect! I am stoked to hear you like the design so much! A couple of thoughts – one is that this design actually started as a blanket a few years ago, and the pattern for that is available on Ravelry or on the very very first post ever made in this blog if you’re interested in having a look. I have to warn you though that the first ancient version is really not written very well! But since you have already worked it, that might not be a problem.
Here is a link to the PDF on Ravelry for the circular blanket: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/morale-fibers-lotus-throw
There’s also an example pictured where the creator squared it up, but I don’t have the directions for that.
Also, if you are thinking of making one with a hood, I have seen one other person try to do that on Ravelry. They did say it was a challenge but it come out looking pretty neat!
Hooded version: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/mrsmonkey1992/lotus-mandala-duster
Thanks so much for your awesome compliments and I hope the links are helpful!
Those projects in the links are gorgeous! Thank yoy!!
I did make the throw version too, it’s in my craft room atm. Like the others, it’s beautiful!
I may have to figure out how to share pics of the finished products with you if you are interested in seeing them.:-)
Definitely, I love seeing pictures! You can e-mail me at reginaalexisweiss(at)gmail.com or send me pictures via message at my Facebook business page : http://www.facebook.com/MoraleFiber