Lotus Mandala Circular Vest

After seeing some great circular vests and talking about them with a fellow crocheter last festival, I came home inspired to do something I’ve had in my notebook for a while – rework my Lotus Throw pattern into a mandala-based circular vest! Which I did, and actually I did twice, which is why this post is a two-parter – each with a different FREE pattern guide based on my FREE Lotus Throw design.

Act 1 can be found here.

UPDATE 1/31/17: I have added a FAQ PageΒ for this pattern to answer some commonly asked questions!
UPDATE AGAIN 7/26/17: I have created a tutorial for adding sleeves to this vest! See this post for the free add-on πŸ™‚

ACT 2

LotusVest7.jpg

This pattern sizes the armholes wider and and further apart than the small-sized duster to be more size-inclusive and also because it’s a more open style vest, but it’s very easy to modify this to make it smaller or larger by moving the armholes closer together / further apart and chaining fewer/more stitches. Just remember that the stitch counts may not be the same – but since it’s worked in a circle, just make sure you follow the rounds and begin & end the rows as instructed and the count shouldn’t matter too much.

This pattern uses 8 skeins of Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, 1 ea of the first four colors in the inner ring and 2 ea of the 2 outer colors.

DSCN5073

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton doesn’t have the same springy soft feel as Cotton-Ease (a cotton blend yarn I like for crochet halter tops) but what it does have is a bright sheen and a great color selection. Combined with the #4 weight and sleek durable texture, it’s lovely for swingy fringe-y summer outwear and bags – not to mention drippily colorful hippie coverups. Speaking of which, it was the PERFECT yarn for this bright mandala vest.

Lotus Circular Vest

LotusVest1

Materials:

5.50 mm crochet hook

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Tangerine (1 skein), Rose (1 skein), Silver (1 skein), Lilac (1 skein), Purple (2 skeins), and Denim (2 skeins)

OR

Lion Brand Shawl in a Ball (2 skeins)

Notes:

You can change colors on any round, but I changed colors at the beginning of the following rounds: 10, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19, 30, following the same color order as listed in the materials for 24/7 Cotton. The first 16 rounds of the Mandala are kinda complex HOWEVER they are identical to the first 16 rounds of the Lotus Duster, the sister pattern to this design, and that pattern has a full-length video tutorial for the first 16 rounds on my YouTube channel here – so if you struggle during those rounds, please refer to the video to help clarify! πŸ™‚

Gauge: 3.25β€³ measured across the diameter after Rnd 3.

Final Dimensions:
22.5β€³ radius (measured from center of motif to bottom edge)
50β€³ diameter (measured from collar to bottom edge

Terms:

Dc with last loop on the hook: YO once, insert hk into next st/sp, draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 lps on the hook. 2 lps remain on the hook (1 original and 1 left unworked from the dc stitch).

4-DC Cluster – Work 4 dc stitches, keeping the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 5 loops on the hook.

Shell – 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc

Tr3tog: *YO twice, insert hk into indicated st or sp and draw up a loop. (YO and draw through 2 loops) twice, leaving one loop unworked.* Rpt from * to * two more times – 4 lps on the hook. YO and draw through all 4 loops.

Tr2tog: *YO twice, insert hk into indicated st or sp and draw up a loop. (YO and draw through 2 loops) twice, leaving one loop unworked.* Rpt from * to * once more – 3 lps on the hook. YO and draw through all 3 lps.

Scallop: 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc

CircVest1

Instructions

Make Magic Ring.

  1. 8 sc into the ring, tighten. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round. – 8 sc
  2. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sc, ch 1) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-4. – 8 dc + 8 spaces
  3. Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 1 – counts as first dc with last loop on the hook. Dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 6 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin your next round. – 8 clusters + 8 spaces
  4. Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on hk, dc into the same space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 2. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the first cluster to join. 16 clusters + 16 spaces
  5. Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on the hk. Dc into the same space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster into the next ch-2 space, ch 3) 14 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster to join. – 16 clusters + 16 spaces
  6. Ch 3 – counts as first dc, 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3. (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 16 sets of 3 dc + 16 spaces
  7. Sl st in the top of the next dc. (Sk next dc. In the next ch-3 space work 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc – shell made. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc) 16 times. Join with a sl st in first sl st. – 16 shells
  8. Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch 3, sc in the top of next tr stitch in the middle of the shell, ch 3. (Dc in the next sl st between shells, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 32 spaces
  9. Ch 3. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next sc and draw up a lp, (YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk) twice – one treble stitch leaving last lp on the hk made. Treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk – 3 lps remain on the hk. YO, draw through all 3 lps, ch 7. (In same dc in which you worked the previous treble, work 1 treble crochet leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk. Work 1 treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk – 4 lps on the hk. Fig 1. YO, draw through all four lps on hk – tr3tog made, ch 7. Fig 2.) 15 times. Join with a sl st in top of first tr3tog. – 16 tr3tog + 16 spaces
  10. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Work 1dc in the top of the next tr3tog st, ch 1) 15 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1. Sl st into 3rdch of beg ch-4. Fig 3. Β – 48 clusters + 16 dc
  1. (Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Skip next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space, ch 3. Sk next cluster and space, sl st in next dc. Fig 4.) 15 times. Ch 3. Sk next space and next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2. Sk next cluster, work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space. Sk next cluster and space, dc in same st as the sl st join of the previous round. – 32 clusters
  1. Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk. Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. 5. YO and draw through both lps on the hook – first tr2tog made. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4. Fig 6. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the top of the next cluster. Sk next 2 chain-3 spaces, work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the next cluster. YO and pull through all 3 lps. Fig 7. Ch 4, work 1 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the first tr2tog. – 16 clusters + 16 tr2tog + 32 chain spaces
  1. Sl st in the next ch-4 space, ch 3 – counts as first dc. Work 4 dc in the same space. (1 dc in top of the next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-4 space, 1 dc in top of the next tr2tog, 5 dc in next ch-4 space) 15 times. Work 1 dc in top of next cluster, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, 1 dc in top of tr2tog. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 192 dc sts
  2. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) 95 times. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rdch of beg ch-4. – 96 dc + 96 ch-1 spaces

Rnds 10-14 are highlighted below.

Rnd12

  1. (Sk next ch-1 space. Work 1 hdc in the next dc. In the same st work 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc – scallop made. Skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc) 48 times. Join with a sl st in the same st as join from the previous rnd. – 48 scallops
  2. Ch 3 –counts as first dc. Sk next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next st (1 hdc in the next st, sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st) 47 times. Hdc in next stitch, sk next st, join with a sl st to the 3rdch of beg ch-3. – 192 sts

Extra Sizing Option: Dc, ch-2 rpts. You can add one or two Extra Rounds as written below to increase the size by a few inches.

Extra Rnd 1: Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2, sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 2, sk next st) 94 times. Dc in the next st, join with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beginning ch-5.

Extra Rnd 2: Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. (Dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 2) 94 times. Dc in the next space, join with a hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5.

Armhole Round:

If you worked the extra rounds, follow the Alternate Rnd 17 instructions presented in italics under the original Rnd 17 below.

  1. Ch 43 – counts as first dc + ch 40. Sk next 24 sts, dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) 22 times. Dc in the next st, ch 40, sk next 24 sts. Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) 47 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rdch of beg ch-43.

Β 17 (Alternate).Ch 43 – counts as first dc + ch 40. Sk next 11 spaces, dc in the next space, ch 1. (Dc in the next space, ch 1) 22 times. Dc in the next space, ch 40, sk next 11 spaces. Dc in the next space, ch 1. (Dc in the next space, ch 2) around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of the beg ch-43. If you worked the extra rounds, you can resume the pattern as written from here.

Check to see if it fits!

DSCN5071

The horizontal distance between the armholes should match the distance between your shoulders. You can move the armholes closer together for smaller width shoulders, or further apart for wider. This can also change the fit of the vest – closer armholes mean a closer fit at the neck, further armholes mean a more draping back and open neckline.

Measuring from the lower half of the armhole should match the measurement around the back of the ribcage, or from armpit to armpit if you measure from the bottoms of the armholes

Since the human body isn’t a circle, this isn’t an exact science, so don’t worry if you don’t get your measurements exactly right. This is meant to be a draping piece and not a tailored suit anyway.

Here are some tips for adjusting:
– If your Fig 9 measurement is too small, place more repeats between the armhole chains to make them further apart. If your Fig 9 measurement is too large, place fewer repeats between armholes to make them closer together.
– You can add or subtract chain stitches in the armhole round to make the armholes smaller or larger.
-You can skip more or less stitches/spaces underneath the armhole chain to make the armhole smaller or larger

Keep in mind that making these changes will alter the total stitch count from what is written – as long as you make the repeats around, the counts aren’t as crucial from here.

18. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 Dc in ea dc or ch stΒ  around entire circle. Sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3 to join. – 224 sts

19. (Sc in the next dc, ch 3, sk next st***) 111 times. Sc in the next dc, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-3 spaces
*** If you have worked the Extra Rounds and Alternate Rnd 17, work the repeat as follows: (Sc in the next dc, ch 3, sk next 2 sts) around.

20. Sc in the same ch space, ch 3. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 3) 110 times. Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-3 spaces

21. Rpt Rnd 20

22. Ch 3. (1 dc in the next ch space, Β ch 3, 1 dc in the same space) 111 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, join with a hdc in the 3rdΒ ch of beg ch-3. – 112 ch-3 spaces

23. Sc in the space formed by the side of the hdc join of the previous round. Ch 4. (Sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4) 110 times. Β Sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-4 spaces

24. Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 4) 110 times. Sc in the next ch sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-4 spaces

25. Sc in the same sp, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 5) 110 times. Sc in the next space, ch 2, dc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-5 spaces

26-28. Rpt rnd 25.

29. Sc in the same sp, ch 6. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 110 times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-6 spaces

Extra sizing option: If you are making a larger vest, you can add extra repeats of Rnd 29 here. Remember however that there are only so many repeats you can achieve in a circle before you have to increase the amount of chain sts between sc stitches to account for the added diameter.

30. Sc in the same sp, 6 dc in next sc – one fan made. (1 sc in next ch-6 sp, 6 dc in next sc) 111 times, join with a sl st in first sc of the round. – 112 fans

31. Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. Sc in 3rdΒ dc of fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2. (Dc in next sc, ch 2. Sc in the 3rdΒ dc of next fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2) 110 times. Dc in the next sc, ch 2, sc in the 3rdΒ dc of next fan ch 1, sc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the 3rdΒ ch of beg ch-5. – 336 ch spaces

32. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 2 dc in the same space, ch 1. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 1, 1 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 1) 111 times. 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Sl st in the 3rdΒ ch of beg ch-3. – 784 dc sts + 336 ch spaces

Cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

Close-ups of the first 23 or so rounds…

Armhole measuring…

DSCN5071
I made the shoulder width around 15″ for the basic pattern.

The colors of the yarn are so addictive combined with this pattern, I am sure I’ll be making more of these!

-MF

539 thoughts on “Lotus Mandala Circular Vest

Add yours

  1. I just got to the armhole row. I am really broad shouldered and it’s still a bit tight even after doing the 2 extra rows before row 17. Using an I hook but mandala bebe yarn. It’s a bit thinner than regular mandala. What can I do to make it a bit bigger?

    1. Hi Heather! The simplest solution would be to chain more stitches in the actual armhole chains – this can be done by chaining in multiples of three (so adding a total stitches equaling a multiple of three to each armhole) and then skipping 1 chain space per 3 extra chains added. This will change your total stitch count for the round of course, but if you just follow the repeats around you should be set πŸ™‚

  2. I love this pattern! Being plus size (a size 22-24)it is a little snug. I hope you don’t mind but these are the adjustments I made to fit me better.

    After row 12 I repeated rows 7-12 then continued as written.

    Thank you so much for sharing your pattern! I absolutely love it!

    1. Did you do the extra rows before the arms? I am also a plus size. Thank you in advance.
      Christin

  3. I love, love, love your pattern but I am stuck on row 12 and don’t understand the tr2tog. Do you have a YouTube video? Thank you for any help you can give me. ❀️

    1. Hi Charley! I don’t have an official video yet, but I did give another blogger permission to make one from this pattern – you can find the link in the first few paragraphs of this post πŸ™‚

    2. Anyway to post the link here? Sorry, I’ve searched and there are so many comments that I’m having a hard time locating. Perhaps a name might help. Posts take me to 2017. Thank you so much for this awesome pattern. I would love to do the duster next.

      1. No problem! Here’s the link to the video tutorial from Cynthialoowhoo! It should be linked to in the actual blog post, not the comments, but I’ll have to double check that πŸ™‚

      2. Thank you so much for the video and for the Lotus Mandala Circular Vest. πŸ’—

        >

  4. Hello. Thank you for writing such a beautiful pattern. I have a question about the end of row 19 and beginning of 20.

    19. (Sc in the next dc, ch 3, sk next st) 111 times. Sc in the next dc, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-3 spaces.

    20.Sc in the same ch space, ch 3. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 3) 110 times. Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-3 spaces

    Does the last sc chain 1 ,hdc into first sc count as a chain 3 space in your total count for the row? And to start row 20 do you sc into the chain 1 hdc stitch? I have watched the tutorial and it’s not clear in the video either.

    1. Oops. Hit send to quickly. Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. πŸ˜„

    2. Hi Shannon! Yes, the last chain-1, hdc into the first sc counts as the final ch-3 sized space of the round. To begin the next round, you work into the same chain-3 sized space that your hook is positioned over at the beginning – so it’s really more working under the side of the final hdc that you used to close the space. I have a blog that shows how to do this style of join with pictures, hopefully that makes it clearer! πŸ™‚ Here’s the link:
      https://moralefiber.blog/2017/07/24/chain-stitch-join-tutorial/

  5. I am looking for the add on for the sleeves and can’t seem to find it….

    Thank you!

  6. hi I’ve made this pattern before and it’s a wonderfully written pattern and a gorgeous vest. I am making another one and for some reason it’s very ruffled on row 16 . I’m wondering if you have any insight as to why. I would appreciate any help. I’m using Lion Brand mandala yarn in I believe a 5.5 hook.

    1. Hi Marie! I’m not sure why your piece is curling on that particular row, but my first guess would be to check your stitch spacing – make sure you are only skipping the stitches when the pattern indicates. This row does not skip one every other stitch, however I have seen people read it that way by mistake.

      1. Thank you πŸ™‚ I did find my error in the chains. I was skipping the chain but also the slip stitch, instead putting a cluster there as well. I’m fairly experienced at crochet so clearly I was an extra 48 clusters tired πŸ˜†

  7. Hello. This is a wonderful pattern. I just finished making mine, it’s actually a present for my cousin.. I used a 4ply cotton yarn and I am just wondering if I made it to small, because the front doesn’t meet, or is the pattern such.

    I am making another one for me.

    1. Hi Amita! The vest is designed to be able to close in front, but it does depend on size. Be sure to check your gauge for this project in order to make sure it comes out the size pictured! πŸ™‚

  8. Hi, I was wondering if I could use a lighter weight yarn (I have something called fingering weight yarn). I don’t really crochet much, how would this change the size? Stick with the same size hook (5.5)?

    1. Hi Kelly! It would be possible to make this piece is your fingering weight yarn, but you’ll have to check your gauge. Gauge is the size of the piece you can make given your hook and yarn size/weight. To test your gauge, use the yarn you have and the hook recommended by the pattern to work the pattern up until the round given for the gauge (I think for this pattern the gauge is given at Rnd 3). Then measure your piece and see if it matches the measurement listed in the pattern. If it’s too small or large, you can change your hook size up and down to change the gauge accordingly πŸ™‚

      1. I am definitely going to try to make it, it is so beautiful! Is the gauge in the blog and I missed it when I read it, or is it in the pdf file on Ravelry? Thank you.

      2. Hi Kelly! The gauge is 3.25″ measured across the diameter of the circle after Rnd 3. It’s not listed here on the blog but it should be! I can’t believe I went this long without realizing the gauge isn’t given, lol! Thanks for noticing that, I’ll get that added to the post. It is listed in the Ravelry PDF file, however πŸ™‚

  9. I’m wanting to make this for my 2 yr old granddaughter using sports weight yarn. What adjustments do I need to make? She wears a size 2.

    1. Hi Shanda, I am afraid I don’t have much experience making this garment for small children – I’m sure that using a smaller hook along with a smaller size yarn is necessary, but I can’t say beyond that. For people that ask about doing this design in very small sizes, I usually recommend The Lavender Chair’s “Ring around the Rosie” vest, which is specifically designed for small children πŸ™‚ That can be found here:
      https://www.thelavenderchair.com/ring-around-rosie-vest-crochet-pattern/

  10. Just finished my mandala vest and I love it! Thank you for the videos. I’m feeling more confident in my ability now. Will be making another in cotton. I used Caron cakes thinking I was going to make a different one but couldn’t resist your pattern. You are so talented. Oh and my morale has improved so I will continue crocheting!

  11. I ordered 4of these vests, and have not received my order. I’m woundering we’re my product is???? I’ve checked with my bank, and the money was transferred. Plz help

    1. Hi Lori, I actually do not sell this piece as a finished item, so it’s not possible for you to have ordered 4 vests from me. You may have ordered the digital PDF of the crochet pattern, which I do sell in my Etsy shop. Do you have an order number to which I can refer?

  12. I saw a green version of your lotus duster on the FAQ page, and I would love to know how you added those rows to make it have a hood!

  13. Thank you so much for posting this. I’ve been waiting forever to find a pattern for this that was free! Thank you again.

  14. Hello, thank you for this beautiful pattern! I have a question regarding the extended size. For Rnd 18, I did the DC’s all the way around, but I ended up with 228 stitches total, not 224. Is this normal because I am making the plus-size version? Or is something wrong here? πŸ˜…

    1. Hi Melissa! Good question – I checked out the pattern and I’m not sure whether you have extra stitches or the pattern count is off (I’ll have to sit down and do some math once my coffee kicks in) but the quickest answer is that you can still continue on to finish the pattern easily with 228 stitches instead of 224, you’ll just end up with a couple more repeats than the pattern says – but it will not be noticeable if you don’t mind fudging a little! πŸ™‚

    2. Okay, I checked and it DOES look like it’s supposed to be 228! Thanks for catching that! πŸ™‚ I’ll make a note of it on my list and check through this part one more time when I get the chance to get it fixed <3

  15. I’m using mandala ombrΓ© with a 5.5 hook and on round 29. For what ever reason the garment is really short it only 26 inches long … can I just do more rounds until I get the length I want?

    1. Hi Jen! This sounds like a combination gauge / yarn issue – Here’s a breakdown of crochet gauge, and I suspect one of the issues here is that your yarn is very different from the recommended yarn for this project:
      https://moralefiber.blog/2020/12/02/field-guide/
      If you don’t want to redo any of your piece, you can pretty easily add more rounds to make it longer πŸ™‚ This can be done by adding more repeats of Round 29, as is written in the pattern:
      “29. Sc in the same sp, ch 6. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 110 times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round. – 112 ch-6 spaces

      Extra sizing option: If you are making a larger vest, you can add extra repeats of Rnd 29 here. Remember however that there are only so many repeats you can achieve in a circle before you have to increase the amount of chain sts between sc stitches to account for the added diameter.”
      If you add more rounds of 29, but still can’t get your size large enough, add more chain stitches in between single crochets and then the final row will need more double crochets in the sets (7 dc in between the chain spaces instead of 6 maybe) πŸ™‚ Hope that helps!

  16. I love this vest pattern, thank you so much for sharing it. I am looking forward to trying it out. πŸ™‚

  17. I really want to make this for my niece, but she is little and measures 10 inches across the back. Do you think using a 3 weight yarn (Lion Brand Mandala) and a 4mm hook would bring it down to her size? It’s hard to find a pattern that suits her and isn’t toddler size.

    1. It’s hard to say without knowing gauge but I think you’d have to go smaller with the yarn and maybe even with the hook to make it small enough, but that’s just my first guess! Do you have a #2 weight yarn you could try it with?

  18. Hi! This is my first attempt at any type of garment. I read Fae’s comment about being plus size (22-24) and repeating round 7-12 then continue on as written. My question is as this is an increasing circle would I change or add any stitches like chains or just at 12, start repeat rows. I know that you didn’t do the change, but since you make many different clothes I would ask. Thank you in advance

    1. Hi Christin! Yes, depending on how many extra rows are added, you’ll need to extend the circumference of the circle somehow so that the shape of it doesn’t start to buckle inward. This will change the number of repeats and stitch counts of course but if you just follow the repeats around for as many as you need, you should be fine! πŸ™‚

  19. I’ve tried several mandala circle best patterns and yours is the BEST. Thank you so much. This is my go-to pattern.

  20. Is it possible to make the collar on the vest less frilly the way you did on the mandala duster 2.0? If so, how would I do this?

    1. That’s a great question! This mandala spaces the armholes further apart than the duster, so one strategy to reduce the bulk of the collar would be to move the armholes closer together. The second strategy, which I used on the Duster 2.0, is to eliminate some of the increases between the armholes once they have been placed – so working fewer stitches per space in that area! πŸ™‚ The two patterns don’t correspond exactly at this point in the design, but those two tips should get you started! Thanks for visiting πŸ™‚

    1. Hi Janet! Are you looking for the bell sleeves that go on the Lotus Duster, or are you looking for the Lotus Mandala Vest Cardigan sleeves? The bell sleeves are the very big ones with the points at the end πŸ™‚

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